110

JAN/FEB 2020 • £6.95 UK $15.99

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MENG’S KILLER NEW SHERMAN

 CONTENTS
2 Sherman-ator
Dan Moore builds Meng’s killer new M4A3 Sherman

12 D2 Series One
Thomas Morgan re-works the Azimut Renault

22 Big Bang Theory

The Editor plays with the new Pig Model 1:1 88’ shell

28 Day of the Jackel

Rubén González Hernández builds the Airfix 1:48 Supacat

38 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 28
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

48 Keeping Track
New releases.

56 Roofless Recce
Fabio Sacchi lifts the lid on AFV Club’s M3A3

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2
By early 1944 the U.S Military had successfully
reconfigured and up gunned their standard medium
tank, the M4 Sherman. Manufacturers Chrysler and
Fisher had previously both submitted several vehicle
design feature changes which together would
contribute to becoming the M4A3 (76) W. Using the
76mm M1 Tank gun (also to be incorporated into the
M18 Hellcat Tank Destroyer design) the new
Sherman variant featured a new turret, a redesigned
front glacis and other numerous features. The “W”
designation in the title of the new vehicle was due to
the new ammo storage design, with rounds stored in
the hull below the turret in racks that were
surrounded by liquid filled chambers, with the
mindset being if the ammo storage was affected by
fire the escaping crew would gain precious seconds
due to the presence of the liquid. By March 1944
manufacture of the new vehicle had commenced and
by June ‘44 Chrysler had started rolling out the new
Sherman, unfortunately slightly too late for the
Normandy invasion. Ultimately Chrysler manufactured
over 4,000 M4A3 (76), with Fisher also manufacturing
vehicles. The M4A3 (76) W saw extensive service in
Europe in 1944/45, also being recalled for service in
1950 in the Korean conflict due to a lack of available
newer design vehicles.

e n g ’s
M n e w
d
bran 6 ) W
( 7
M4A3
E L L E D BY
MOD
N M OORE
D A

3
 Above left. Bogie assemblies. Note the
missing bolt detail which can be added
using the bolt heads moulded onto the
nearby sprue.

Above. A little texture added with

Tamiya Surface Primer enhances the
subtle armour plate surface moulded by
Meng.

Left. The rear idler arms must be left

unglued to tension the workable tracks.
Note the excellent weld detail of the
sand-screen mounting strips.

4
Meng’s new Sherman complete set of the solid type roadwheels
Meng has released a totally new are also included as an option, which can
tooled M4A3 variant of the Sherman, be used rather than the common Chrysler
with the parts layout perhaps hinting at pressed-metal type. Some small bolt
further variants to come. At the time of details have been left off the workable
writing Meng had just announced a new upper arms of the suspension units,
sprues
“Jumbo” version to be released shortly. The however Meng has indeed included the
if required.
parts count is claimed by Meng as 1190 detail on a nearby sprue that can be
A typically well laid out instruction sheet is
pieces – I can assure you a majority of this carefully sliced off and glued onto the
included, with marking options for 4 U.S
is track parts, with quite a lot of leftovers arms. The 4 holes which are prominent on
vehicles all based in Europe in 1944/45.
too. A small photoetch fret is included, with the blank end of the Bogie stations are
The modeller must be careful to select the
a jig for folding the delicate headlight brush missing which appears to be a common
build option before commencing, as the
guards. The major components of the flaw with most Sherman kits due to
parts for the various options differ
lower and upper hulls plus the turret halves moulding limitations, but which can be
somewhat throughout the instruction
all possess subtle casting and weld easily rectified by drilling out the missing
sequence. All in all it gives the modeller a
textures. Workable springs are included in holes in the correct location on each
very impressive (or daunting) parts count
a neatly packaged little box to add to the station. Take care which bogie unit halves
and provides excellent value for money in
VVSS bogie suspension units, with these are used – there is a complete set of
my opinion.
being fully articulating once installed. Don’t another style of bogie included.
throw the spring box out! On the rear are Steps 2 to 5 builds up the lower hull, which
Onto the build
printed boxes of whiskey and cigarettes can be very quickly assembled. The fit is
Due to first appearances of a very full box
that can be made up for a little fun extra excellent, with no filler required. Once the
of sprues I was expecting the building
detail. Bound soft metal wire is supplied for hull is built up the bogie stations can be
stage to be somewhat torturous, but I am
the tow cable, with brass wire also added, and the rest of the driveline
happy to report it was definitely not the
included for the fully workable track links. installed. Be careful to leave the rear idler
case.
Parts for the numerous periscopes are arms unglued (C55) as these will tension
Step 1 involves the construction of the
provided on a clear sprue, which some the workable tracks later on.
VVSS suspension units. The units can be
modellers prefer. A metal gun barrel will be quickly constructed with the workable
included on the initial release of the kit, metal springs added and the roadwheels
with a 2 piece plastic version also on the left loose to aid painting later on. A
5
 Steps 6 to 7 involve the track construction. Ah individual
tracks…this is the part of an armour build I loathe every time
due to the sheer repetition! 79 links per side must be
constructed of 3 pieces per link, which if cut off the sprue
neatly only require a quick clean up. Meng have handily
added a jig to assemble the track sections, which would be
nearly impossible to do otherwise (see pic 2). After each link
is assembled and added to the jig the brass wire is passed
through and glued with cyanoacrylate or similar, which is then
snipped off & filed. Although time consuming, the assembled
track sections are surprisingly robust. A link was left loose on
both sides to facilitate the painting process later on. I decided
in this build to add the track “duck bill” end connectors to
each link, as I prefer the look of the wider track.

Assembling the track sections requires the appropriate

tools (and patience!)

The fully articulating suspension

bogies using the metal springs

Steps 8 through to 18 build up the rest of also provided as an option if the modeller To blend in the two halves however
the upper and lower hulls, with no major so wishes. I was impressed with the required a little sanding and once again a
problems encountered. The two front numerous fine casting numbers presented more heavily applied stippling of the
towing shackle mount support brackets on various components, as well as the Tamiya primer to obtain a nice rough cast
appeared to be missing, with no mention in subtle casting texture that Meng has finish. With care the gun breech and
the kit instructions. However, I did find out imposed on the hull sections however to mantlet (see pic 6) could in theory be left in
later that they are actually located on the C blend in the P.E brush guards and to add a separate components to aid interior
sprue (parts 49/50). A choice of rear engine little more texture a stippled-on coat of painting, however care needs to be taken
decks is provided, as well as other optional Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer was added with the two small trunnion pins as they are
details depending on the particular vehicle to the front glacis section. The kit supplied quite a tight fit. The nicely detailed .50 Cal
build the modeller has chosen. Meng has onboard tools are very nicely detailed, and MG can be fitted as stored or on its mount
included a jig for bending the delicate P.E didn’t require any further detailing. ready for action, with a choice of barrel
headlight brush guards, which are then Steps 19 to 25 involve construction of the types provided.
carefully added to the front glacis with turret, which is made up of 2 main halves
cyanoacrylate). Plastic brush guards are following the natural horizontal casting line.

The turret broken down into sub-

sections, note small trunnion
pins

6
Steps 26 & 27 finish off what is not an overly taxing
build, with the modeller provided several options of
barrel muzzle depending on the timeframe of the
vehicle modelled. Some basic stores and two crew
figures from Tamiya’s U.S Tank Crew set (No.35347)
were test-fitted at this stage including the jerrycans
and solid-type roadwheels included with Meng’s
Sherman. A rear tarp and vehicle I.D sheet were
made up from epoxy putty to drape over the stores
on the rear of the vehicle.

Priming & Painting a colorized image of an M4A3 (76) image. After this settled for a little while it
After breaking down the build into several attached to the 12th Armoured Division in was time to attack the winter finish using
sub-sections the turret and hull received a 1944/45. The basic divisional markings tap water, sharpened toothpicks and a
coat of Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, were hand painted on using Vallejo white worn paintbrush, as these can all be used
thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinners and the U.S stars sprayed on using an old to create different wear effects on the
applied with an airbrush. A coat of Tamiya metal mask template and Tamiya XF-2 winter camo. After I was happy with the
XF-69 NATO Black was sprayed in selected White. I find that the easiest way to level of camo damage the finish was again
areas as a pre-shade for the overlaying achieve a worn whitewash effect is via the sealed with X-22 Clear, and then the
olive drab. I decided to try a new Tamiya “hairspray technique”. As per my usual hairspray process repeated again using a
shade from their lacquer paints range for method hairspray was applied through the dirtier winter camo mix of the white and a
the main camo colour, namely LP-28 Olive airbrush over the turret and hull, then set few drops of XF-57 Buff.
Drab which thinned with own lacquer aside to dry for an half an hour or so.
thinners sprayed beautifully and provided a Tamiya XF-2 Matt white heavily thinned
durable finish. The main coat was sealed in with lacquer thinners was
with Tamiya X-22 clear. Early on in the build applied over certain areas
I had decided to depict a vehicle with a as per the worn finish
worn winter whitewash finish, after seeing seen in the reference

7
 Top left. Primer on using Tamiya’s Liquid Surface Primer
Top right. Pre shading, in hindsight probably not required due to the
overlying Olive Drab.
Above. Tamiya LP38 give good contrast to the worn whitewash.
Above right. Main colour and markings on

Above and left. The ‘Hairspray’

technique is now pretty well
known and ideal for a worn winter
whitewash; a layer (or layers) of
hairspray forms an unstable
barrier between coats of paint
allowing acrylic top-coats to be
removed with warm water using
old paintbrushes or scratching
with wooden cocktail sticks. The
effect is very random and
detailed.

8
Weathering the Sherman XF-1 Flat Black. Mig AMMO’s Heavy Mud were finished in semi-gloss black, and
After the second layer of hairspray process products (Thick Soil and Moist Ground) received a dark reddish oil wash. Ground
was complete a coat of X-22 Clear was were applied to the tracks and lower hull graphite was applied to selected areas of
again used to seal in the paintwork prior to for a filthy mud effect. Combined with a the weapons for a metallic sheen. The
weathering. The tail lamps were touched in hint of light garden dirt and the odd tuft of crew figures were quickly assembled with
with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red, with the front Modelscene dried grass thrown in it Vallejo acrylics airbrushed onto the figure
mirrored headlight reflectors being picked provided a varied effect in the mud and for the base colours. Thinned Vallejos were
out using a chrome Molotow pen. The dirt. Some of the mix was carefully flicked then brush applied to accentuate uniform
roadwheels and spare track pads on the onto the hull sides and rear using a folds and add some variation to the facial
rear were brush painted with Vallejo’s toothpick and an old paintbrush. flesh tones. The vehicle stores were
Rubber Black. Weathering commenced After the mud effects had dried ground painted in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics and
with an overall pinwash using Mig AMMO’s graphite was applied to the track wearing were weathered to suit.
Africa Korps Wash (A.MIG-1001), this is a surfaces and sprocket/idler using a finger The very last item to add was the turret-
darkish shade to make the raised and and pencil. After I was happy with the mounted aerial, which was surprisingly not
recessed details pop. A variety of oil overall look Testor’s Dullcote was applied mentioned in the instructions or included
shades were applied to simulate scuffs and sparingly to knock off the sheen of the with the kit? Meng does give the modeller
scratches, with the winter camo blemished Tamiya Clear. the option of a straight or bent aerial base,
and mapping effects created with white so perhaps in future kits it may be an
oils and thinned Vallejo acrylic white. Finishing Details addition. A section of guitar string was
The tracks received a coat of Tamiya’s X- The onboard tools were painted with used to simulate the 3-piece style aerial
18 Semi-Gloss Black mixed with XF-64 Red Vallejo acrylics, and received weathering seen on these vehicles, with blobs of PVA
Brown, with the track pads oversprayed in with thinned oils. The hull and turret MG’s glue for the connectors.

9
 Final Thoughts
Meng’s new Sherman is an impressive kit. Apart from the
tracks (which although impressive are time-consuming) the
rest of the build is relatively trouble-free, with excellent
parts fit and little cleanup required. I was certainly
impressed with Meng’s effort.
If this is a sign of things to come in a
new range of Sherman variants the fans
should certainly be rejoicing.
Highly Recommended.

10
 ( 7 6 ) W
M 4A3
M A N
S HER

11
D2

Thomas Morgan
12
Renault D2
1 Series st
I have a passion for strange or elaborate commander, driver and radio operator; this
camouflages; and I like to build vehicles being the first French tank to all be
that are less popular with many modellers. equipped with a wireless. The first series
This explains my attraction to French had an APX-1 turret with a short 47 mm
amour of the late 1930’s. Amongst the SA34 gun. The second batch mounted a
“oddest of the odd” schemes were those longer barreled 47 mm, and many of the
applied by the Renault factory to their char earlier series were up-gunned by the time
D2. One hundred were delivered in two of the invasion.
batches by 1937. The crew consisted of

13
 I have long wanted to build a D2, but the absence of a surviving The lack of a survivor also means that there are no museum “walk
example appears to have inhibited the main stream around” albums nor close ups photos. The few published plans
manufacturers from issuing a styrene kit. I did find three resin kits, are scant on detail and I could locate only a couple of component
by Azimut, Blitz and Commander Models. None was perfect (what drawings. My primary references were contemporary photos taken
kit is?) but I chose to start with Azimut’s. I preferred its overall by either the French or Germans, and none from a modeller’s
dimensions and it had the best representation of the prominent perspective. At least half of my time was consumed trying to
engine deck grills. But in fact, but the time I finished the only parts determine size, proportion and position by “photo interpretation”.
left of the original kit were the idlers, engine grills, exhaust shield
and denuded hull slab.

None of the three turrets had the

amount of 1st series detail that I wanted.
But the turret from Tamiya’s Char B1 bis
was a close match to the APX 1, so I
use it. I began by altering the contour of
the front and reducing the size of the
rear hatch. The vision covers were
flattened and repositioned, as was the
base for the cupola.

The turret ring also had to be

repositioned and reworked. It was
quite tall, more like a pedestal or
barbette, and in three sections. I
roughed out circles in thick card,
clamped them onto a bolt and “turned”
them to the correct diameter.

14
The protruding vision “diascope” devices were unique to the 1st
series, the later ones being flat “episcopes”. I fashioned them from
tube and strip, gradually building up the curved bases with dilute
Tamiya putty. The large hatch spring is 0.5 mm brass tube,
annealed and wrapped around a drill bit. It should have 13 coils,
not 12. The resin nuts are from Master Club. The subtle casting
texture was replicated with Mr. Surfacer 500 thinned with Mr. Color
Leveling Thinner and dabbed on with a soft brush.

The cupola was also modified from Tamiya’s B1. It was flattened and
extended to encompass a large diascope. Lift hooks were added and
the lateral U-shutter replaced with curved .020" card. The bottom collar
was thinned and detailed with Master Club bolts and a rain shield of
005" card. That’s a signal port on the turret roof.

The biggest task in converting the turret was fabricating

the two guns - the 47 mm and the 7.5 mm machine gun.
The main gun’s mantle was built up on the base of the
Tamiya Char B1 part using tube, card, Aber PE screws
and a lot of putty. The barrel itself was turned in my
hand tool from rod. The mantlet for the MG was a real
chore. The Germans are mocked for over-engineering
things but this was a circus of asymmetrical compound
curves, angles and openings. It too started with the
Tamiya piece. The brass flash suppressor if from the RB
barrel set.

15
 Even without an exhaust the stern was an involved
re-construction. I began by shaving off a layer of resin
and replacing it with a sheet of .015" card. This
made it much easier to attach the styrene additions.
The rear hinges were replaced with rod and strip, the
18 identical lengths made with my RP Toolz Mitre
Cutter - highly recommended. These hinges did not
have prominent rivets; they were attached with
recessed screws puttied over to appear smooth. The
tow pintle is from Tamiya’s Somua S35 kit, modified
and detailed with Master Club nuts. The elaborate
chain rack and jack bracket was built up from card,
strip, copper wire and Hauler PE chain. The shackles
are heated and bent .030" rod - surprisingly
frustrating as I broke many in the process. For the
shackle mounts I tacked three layers of .040" card
together with acrylic glue, carved them to shape as
one to obtain a consistent shape, and then dissolved
the cement with water. I cheated with the large pins
- they are only end pieces.

I could find no photos showing the large wooden jack in its entirety. I fabricated mine
by combining the partial features seen in contemporary D2 photos with those of
similar jacks used on other French tanks. (The tools on the engine deck are modified
Tamiya pieces.) The grills and hinges on the engine deck are some of the few kit
components that were not replaced. I did have to repair some warpage and mould
defects. Separation lines were scribed between the hatches and handles of .015"
brass wire added. Master Club rivets improved the hinges. The tool rack is the best
interpretation I could coble together based on various photos.

16
I wasn’t satisfied with the shapes of the kit’s The D2’s were the first French tanks to all be
storage bins and decided it was easier to replace equipped with radios. The standard rubber
than correct them. This seemed simple enough accordion antenna boot was comprised of ten discs
until I stumbled over the front angles, particularly on with a conical cap and was usually “floppy”,
the left side where all that Tamiya putty is witness especially at the top. I reproduced the effect by
to my struggle. The right side was complicated by shaping punched discs of different thicknesses and
the armoured conduit protecting the antenna stacking them, followed by a few layers of putty.
cables, running to the front of the hull. It appears The aerial is .9 mm copper tube. The cast antenna
that the antenna was originally intended to sit there, pot, mounted at the rear of the storage bin, is
where a shallow pot remained, covered by an Evergreen tube and card with Master Club bolts. It
inelegant sheet metal lid. I made this from .005" is textured with Mr. Surfacer 500 thinned with Mr.
card, the “turret” from tube and the conduit from Color Leveling Thinner and dabbed on with a soft
brass U channel. brush.

The four quadrant lights were

made of .093" tube chucked in
my hand tool, thinned, sliced
into rings and mounted on .005"
card. The lenses will be punched
discs of coloured foil. The
circular screen of the horn is
Aber photoetch stock sanded
slightly thinner and punched,
topped with a spare PE ring.

The kit’s idler adjustment

mechanisms at the bow were
replaced with ones fashioned from
card, strip and Master Club’s
exquisite slotted hex nuts. Other
nuts were chucked in my hand
motor tool, carefully drilled out and
slipped over a .020" rod.

The bow required an extensive

rebuild and is arguably the most
interesting feature of the model. The
casting was warped, pitted and
lacking in detail. I was forced to
denude it and start afresh after filling
the defects with styrene and putty.
The various components: radio
operator’s hatch, hull MG shield,
driver’s station and periscope, and
headlight were built up from card, rod
and tube. The shackles and mounts
were fashioned as per those on the
stern. The antiskid photoetch on the
footplates is by Lion Roar and the
retractable step is brass stock. The
hinge screws were usually puttied
over except for the right lower one...
why? The prominent screws on the
headlight and driver’s shield are
Verlinden PE, simply pressed into
shallow holes.They were indeed
aligned and also sometimes puttied 17
over.
 The exhaust was replaced with a more accurate
representation built up with tube, card and brackets
of .005" strip. The texture of the elbow casting is Mr.
Surfacer 500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling
Thinner and stippled on with a soft brush. The
Azimut photoetch jacket is correct in size and has
the proper 24 louvers, but the outer edge should be
round not square. To make the smooth curve I
annealed the brass and ground it “wafer thin” from
the inside, then bent it over a rod. The louvers were
embossed with a metal burnishing tool on a soft
cardboard surface.

I was dissatisfied with the running gear. The

details were soft and the road wheels not of the
pattern seen on the first series. The most
prominent feature of the undercarriage was the
uniquely shaped rear drive sprocket. I refined the
contours of an Azimut sprocket and added Master
The idler wheels should have only six For the safety wires on the sprockets I
Club nuts. I also made masters for the wheels,
spokes, not eight. But as they are largely drilled holes through Master Club hex nuts
bogie cheeks and return rollers from Evergreen
obscured by the side shields I got lazy and and glued them in place, maintaining their
stock. I sent these to Mike West of Lone Star
just replaced the nuts. orientation with small pieces of wire. I ran
Models who cast multiple copies for me.
.004" copper wire through the holes to
mimic the commonest pattern seen in
The inner surfaces of the road wheels at the front and rear were visible, so I cut period photos. Note - the pink staining is
several wheels in half and grafted the parts together. Mounting the road wheels
the residual of marking pen ink that I used
was fairly straight forward, apart from having to grind away large amounts of the
thick resin hull. I built the bogies and fixed them to rigid beams, to detect surface defects.
which simplified spacing and alignment,
and epoxied the assemblies to the hull.

The Blitz kit’s link and length tracks looked better than Azimut’s so I used them. They still
required a lot of cleanup and were thicker than I would like. I used a razor saw to separate
the edges and the cleats. I prefer to paint tracks before fixing them in place, so to facilitate
this each run was made up of two sections, a top and a bottom. The curves and contours
were formed by bending just a few links at a time after dripping boiling water on them, and
with strategically placed individual links.

18
 During the 1930’s French tank designers were obsessed with mud chutes. Those on the D2 were
built into the tops of the side shields. I refined the shape of the kit troughs and moved the rear
ones closer to the stern; a chore hacking through solid resin. Along the entire upper edge of the
side shield is a lip that hangs over the vertical panels. Short sections of .010" square strip were
tediously wrapped around the curves of the chutes. A mud scraper was fashioned for the
sprocket wheel. The kit shields were too thick and simplified. Moreover I destroyed them as I
ground away much of the hull replacing the suspension.

Also along the tops of

the shields are caps for
the vertical bogie
springs, nine per side.
The kit’s are inaccurate.
The replacements were
fashioned with .188 tube,
card and lead foil. The
difficult task was aligning
them all vertically and in
parallel on the slope.

The new skirt panels are .010" card. Again the mud troughs “cool” candle flame made it easier to manipulate, but an attempt
proved aggravating as the shields had to be carved to fit them. to chemical blackening caused the delicate metal to dissolve!
The retaining linchpins are a unique feature of the D2. Mine are The chains are anchored to the shields with parts from a
discs punched from .030" card, glued to .015" rod. Clamped in a Verlinden photoetch clasp set. In their exposed position the pins
pin vice made it easier to drill them and fit the thin copper wire were often jarred loose and even torn off. Note, I used the same
loops. The chain is fine Hauler photoetch. It is only 2-dimensional chain to detail the front and rear shackle pins.
but I could find no real chain as small. Annealing the chain over a

I am inept at soldering brass sheet. Instead I make my fenders tops of

.010" card to which I glue sides of oversized .005" strip that are sanded
to the correct contours once cured. Despite being plastic this produces
a robust result. The other advantage of using plastic is that attaching
other parts to the fenders is simpler than with brass. The brackets are
also .005" card which can be folded like brass, in a photoetch bending
tool. The rivets were punched from .010" card.
 After a coat of Tamiya primer the basic camo of the colour
patches shown here BEFORE the dark grey border lines.

completed camo WITH border lines, over coated with Tamiya’s After the muting the bright colours with an overall misting
Semi Gloss Clear. The border lines were brush painted using a of highly dilute Cockpit Green, and adding the random
very dark grey enamel. mottling experiment with the airbrush masks from Artool.

20
Renault D2
1st Series

21
 BIG BANG
THEORY
88mm Pzgr.39 (APCBC) L/56
88
1:1Scale
modelled by David Parker

Owning your own lifesize example of the cut card masks for the markings and a
iconic 88mm tank shell remains something simple assembly and painting guide.
of a dream for many of us until now with
the release of this 1:1 scale replica of a As you can see, assembly is unlikely to be
Pzgr.39 L/56 from a new name, Pig Model, a challenge but bringing the black plastic to
based in Taiwan. The kit consists of just life will be so I thought it would be fun to try
four parts, the grenade and body of the to make it look as real as I could. The
cartridge case moulded in polypropylene immediate challenge of cleaning up the
and base plate with separate fuse both mould seams from the grenade and
moulded in a harder plastic. The grenade is cartridge case was something which I
designed to click into the top of the thought would be simple enough but in fact
cartridge but I would recommend leaving took up a large amount of time. There was
them separate to make the shell easier to a fine raised seam down the cartridge and
handle during painting as it is something of grenade but towards the tip of the grenade
a handful. The kit comes with a set of die- on my example there was a recessed gully

running over the tip of the grenade and order to be able to handle the 56cm long
down the side of the ballistic cap. Nothing cartridge case when spraying and sanding
out of the ordinary for a modeller and I set I made an improvised mounting by
about cleaning up the seam and fixing the inserting two discs of cardboard into each
gap with my usual modelmaking products. end of the tube. these were punctured to
My experience now tells me that this is not permit me to insert a broom handle down
a good idea when working with the axis of the cartridge case. This would
polypropylene, and instead I would permit me to manipulate the cartridge
recommend switching to automotive case without needing to hold it.
products. I bought a large aerosol can of
Halfords (yellow) Filler Primer and Grey I applied layers of the Yellow coloured
Primer. The worst of the raised mould Primer Filler which was sanded down and
seam can be cut away with a sharp scalpel then reapplied and the sanding process
blade but the polypropylene does not sand repeated. On the case I was aiming to get
well, tending to scuff up. This is where the a good polished surface finish as this
Primer Filler comes to the rescue, allowing would be important in getting a good
you to coat the surface and then sand it metallic finish eventually. The grenade
back to achieve a seam-free surface. In presented a different set of problems with

22
My initial attempts to clean up the mould seams using Mr Surfacer Cardboard discs are push fitted into each end of the cartridge.
and sanding sponges were not entirely successful

the varying diameters of it with its rings of grey primer that were then also sanded
and undercut cap all requiring a lot of and polished using increasingly fine grades
cleaning up and repeated priming to finally of sanding sponges to develop a polished
eradicate the seam lines. For something surface. This is essential to create a
so simple there were many hours of realistic metallic finish.
priming, sanding and polishing put into
getting a seamless finish in preparation for
the painting. Once I was happy that the
parts were seam-free I applied top coats

Above A broom handle allowed me to handle the

casing while spraying.

Right A good thick coating of Filler Primer allows the

seam lines to be sanded back and blended in.

Below After considerable work the seam lines on the Below The final coat of primer is sanded and buffed to a polished finish
grenade begin to fade

23
 Panting Moving up to lifesize puts the cartridge case I needed a sympathetic
size of even my biggest airbrush in base colour over which to work with AK
perspective so I stayed with the Interactive True Metal. This is a buffable
automotive products for my base colour - paste which will produce some quite
in this case Halfords Wheel Paint ‘Steel’. remarkable metal finishes but it is not
This would act as my base for the entirely opaque so you need a suitable
grenade and to a lesser extent for the base beneath it. I chose to airbrush a
cartridge. In reality the case would have light misted coat of Alclad Brass on top
been brass washed steel so it is a of the wheel paint steel. Once this was
sensible starting point. Focussing on the done I moved onto the True Metal using

five different shades, Brass, Old

Bronze, Copper, Steel and Iron which
were randomly mixed in different
proportions. It can be applied with a
brush, your finger tip or a cloth and
you can work in small areas because
it blends together perfectly. As you
work the paste it begins to burnish
and transform. Again a cloth or even a
finger tip will burnish the surface but
obviously you need a smooth surface
to start with so all the sanding and

Above The polished primed grenade and Right The base coated cartridge and the
cartridge were sprayed with Wheel paint ‘Steel’. True Metal pastes used to finish it.

Above True Metal paste is mixed on a Above The stark difference between the Alclad
palette and applied with a cloth. As you base and the patch of polished True Metal is clear
work the paste into the surface it changes and to see.
begins to burnish into an incredible metallic shine.

Above I varied the tones on the cartridge with a

darker more Steel and Iron mix towards the base
of the case. Already the handling of the shell is
developing a realistic patina.

polishing is critical to the end result. buffed into the rest of the finish. At this
Another excellent feature of the True Metal stage the base plate and fuse were still
is its tendency to tarnish simply by separate pieces and the fuse was finished
handling. Grease and oils from your skin in much the same way but using Steel and
will add the mix of blooms and shading Iron True Metal. The recessed sections
just like the real thing. To be clear these each side of the centre strip were stippled
are not recognisable as finger prints per se with paste for a rougher less polished
but an overall patina. These effects can surface. The centre strip was part polished
also be enhanced if you wish by applying before adding the paste so that when
additional paste as I did using a cotton burnished it gave a pleasing irregular
bud to create some scuffs on the base finish.
24 plate of the cartridge. These were then
Grenade Moving on now with the Mission Models White Primer. Once
painting of the grenade I masked off the masking was removed it
the pair of driving rings at the base of unfortunately stripped off some
the grenade and I applied some liquid of the paint on the driving rings.
mask using a kebab skewer to apply I suspect this was caused by
the mask irregularly around the raised my initial priming attempts
lips of the ballistic caps. The entire with model primer rather than
grenade was then airbrushed with automotive. The Liquid mask
Mission Models Black Primer with the was rubbed off to expose
tip then masked and oversprayed with the underlying silver for a

chipped effect on the black areas. The kit supplies card

stencils for the markings but it was clear that
getting these to sit against the curved
surface would not be easy so I cut
my own masks using Frisk
masking film. It
appears that
the real
shell

Above I repaired the damaged paint and Above The larger white markings were masked Above In order to create a stamped effect I used
resprayed the silver. I then applied a coat of True and sprayed. stencils with a mix of sponged and sprayed
25
Metal to the rings, in this image the right hand colour.
ring has been done.
 Above The colour density is built up with more sponging and sprayed colour.
Above Right When the mask is removed I used a wet brush to break up the
borders of the numbers to get rid of the crisp edge created by the mask.

markings were applied with a stamp rather than a stencil meaning

that there are no gaps in the letters associated with stencils. It
also means that the paint coverage is not consistent as it is
squeezed out by the stamp. I used Frisk masks to create the
numbers but rather than spraying a solid colour I tried to give a
more varied finish by sponging and lightly airbrushing the colours.
The smaller numbers were too small to cut masks for so I brush
painted them using strips of tape to define the upper and lower
edges. I left them with the irregular density that brush painting
creates. On the cartridge case the numbers around the body of
the case were also brush painted as were those on the base
plate. The final touch was a very subtle wash applied to the
recesses around the body of the grenade. All that remained was
Above I treated the white letters in a similar way giving them softer edges.
to push fit the grenade into the cartridge so that the driving rings FES denotes Iron driving bands at the base of the grenade, copper ones are
touch the top of the case. designated KPS.

26
Shelling out
We couldn’t resist taking a few shots of the
Editor clowning around with the finished 88
round as it gives an excellent idea of the sheer
size of it. For added realism it could easily be
weighted correctly by adding something like
bags of sand perhaps.

Pig Model have more 1:1 ammunition planned

and we understand that the 88mm L71 used by
the King Tiger and Jagdpanther is in the
pipeline. For more information see:
www.facebook.com/PigModelServices

27
 Rubén González Hernández
has some fun with the Airfix
quarter -scale Jackal

1:48

28
‘Operation Herrick’ was the codename of the military operations The famous Land Rovers at the time replaced by the MWMIK
conducted by the United Kingdom in the war against terrorism in ( Mobility Weapon-Mounted Installation Kit ) designed by Supacat
Afghanistan starting in 2002. Herrick is the British contribution to (of Devon in the UK) the ‘Jackal’ needed to provide improved
the NATO-led International Security Assistance Force ( ISAF ) in protection against mines and explosive devices.
support of the United States in it’s own ‘Operation Enduring
Freedom’ ( OEF ).

29
 Straight out the box

This little Airfix kit is a fun build straight from

the box, although you can always add extra
details and do some modifications to the kit
parts. Personally, I’m not such a big fan of
excessive use of photo-etch parts or rebuilding
kit parts, luckily most of the latest generation
of kits are of such a high quality that not much
extra is needed to build a decent well detailed
model. For my Jackal I only opted to replace
the wheels by resin upgrades from MacOne
Models- Set MAC48001 (not shown in the build
images, these are the kit wheels) is especially
designed for this kit by Juan Antionio Parrilla
and Juan Luis Macone, great friends of mine,
who actually designed this set on my request!
The only parts that are really in need of
replacement are the side storage nets and
seatbelts which are, to be honest, quite
horrible! These are easily remade using
masking tape.

The model was divided in sub assemblies to make painting and weathering easier.
When fully assembled and ready to paint the model is still a decent size even considered
it’s only 1/48 scale, It’s quite a bit larger than the Land Rover it replaced at the time.

On with the colour

The base colour is a mixture of Tamiya XF-51 After the base coat is on a protective layer is I opted to use the original kit decals and these are
Khaki Drab, XF-60 Dark Yellow, XF-55 Deck Tan applied with satin varnish from Vallejo. This well applied with the help of Micro Set & Sol. All decals
and XF-2 Flat white. It was applied using my aid decal application and protect from the are carefully cut out and applied with a pair of
Harder& Steinbeck Infinity airbrush. The colours weathering processes. tweezers. When dry another coat of varnish is
are sprayed on using the zenithal lightning applied to also protect the decals.
technique with lighter colours on the upper
surfaces.

30
Detail painting is up next. This is done Other small details such as antenna bases, the A Dark brown wash was applied over the model to
exclusively by handpainting with acrylics. Here dashboard and others must be painted before create some depth in and around the details.
you see the shadow and highlights applied on continuing with the weathering phase. Excess paint is removed with a clean brush and
the seats which are a highly visible part of the white spirit.
model.
It’s pretty time
consuming, but this
step changes the
overall look of the
model completely.

If the contrast is too high it

can be easily toned down
by gently removing some of
the wash with a brush moist
with White Spirit.

31
 Oil change
In this series of photos you can see
the results of the effects made with
oil paints. I applied the lighter oil
colours on the upper surfaces while
the darker ones are applied near the
bottom of the model to strengthen
the effect of the zenithal lighting
technique.

Oil paints are a perfect medium to bring some

subtle changes in the basecoat. Small dots of
502 Abteilung’s 130 Dark mud, 092 German
ochre, 100 Faded grey, 010 Luftwaffe yellow and
001 Snow white are applied and blended in
using a flat brush moistened with White Spirit.

Our main chipping colour is AK’s 711 ‘Chipping colour’. This is carried ... where the crew mounts the vehicle and where equipment is mounted or
out in logical places that are subject to wear and tear due to it’s removed regularly.
everyday use by the crew...

32
 To create the earth and dust effects AK 015, 017 and 074 were
mixed with plaster and this mixture is applied with a dabbing
motion on the underside of the model logically were dust and
earth would collect. If you want a stronger, more textured With the same mixture as in the
effect you must work in layers and make sure the previous previous step we apply splatters
layer is dry before you add a new layer. in and around the wheel arches.

For the fuel, oil and other wet effects I used AK014 Winter Streaking Grime, I’d recommended you build up these effects in layers and therefore these
AK 084 Engine oil and AK 025 Fuel stains. These are applied as washes, paints should be thinned otherwise the layers would be too thick and look
stains and splashes. unnatural, in this scale especially.

Wheel-istic

The MacOne wheels are a big improvement over the kit

parts. Here is my painting and weathering procedures to get
the best from this major feature of the vehicle. The jerry cans
are also from MacOne.

33
 A few dashes of colour with some outer-cases of drinks and
cigarettes were fun to add to this fun project. A small base of
dry and dusty earth contrasting against the black wooden
plinth frames the little Jackal nicely.

34
 Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Twenty Eight

Part Twenty Eight features my work towards completing the turret effectively live. Space is very tight and the crew would be using
basket, focussed mainly on painting and weathering the basket. any structural parts as foot rests or steps to get in and out of the
With assembly almost completed (one floor mounted toolbox vehicle. That said my subject vehicle had a life of approximately 9
remained incomplete as I searched for reference from which to months from construction to destruction so extreme chipping and
build it). The big challenge here was to achieve a realistic level of rusting would not be appropriate.
weathering in this confined space in which 3 crew members

All the turret basket parts were dry fitted together

before painting, only the turret basket legs
remaining largely unmodified from the original kit
parts.

Above Before moving ahead with the painting I

needed to prepare the mounting of the gas mask
stowage on the Gunner’s seat support. To give the
mount strength I drilled through the plastic bars
and added brass rods. A dab of paint on the pins
allowed me to drill the correct locations on the leg
to fit the gasmasks after painting.

Below The painting gets underway with the red

oxide primer (Vallejo Cavalry Brown) and Ivory
(Mission Models Elfenbein). This was then sealed
with a satin varnish.

The electrical parts were painted in my own mix of grey to match the colour On the Commander’s footrest I fitted the MG Zubehör box into the front
on preserved vehicles. Masking the legs lifted the paint so this had to be frame...
repaired.
38
 1

...and the MG Werkzeug box on the reverse face. I had hoped to use the photoetched straps to fit the Zubehör box but they
were too springy to sit naturally so I made my own straps from a lead foil
strip.

The pair of gas masks under the Gunner’s seat were glued in place and the On the front legs the electrical boxes were glued into place after the collar
weld detail added. A light pin wash was added to the seat assembly. details had been painted. Its worth saying that none of the legs were fixed to
the turntable floor at this stage.

Weathering of the floor was done as a whole to try to avoid parts looking dramatically The wash was enhanced with some airbrushing of the same colours
different, beginning with an acylic wash. to show the accumulation of dirt. Notice how the dirt is heavier in the 39
less accessible areas.
 1

I started to add areas of darker staining where oil or moisture might collect. Using a darker tone over the first ones enhances this effect further.
The base bracket 1 for the gun counterbalance would no doubt leak oil during
maintenance.

Fixtures that had not been fitted yet were also weathered in outline in The MG ammunition locker was then weathered and fitted to the floor. I also
anticipation of their eventual installation. started to add some areas of polished metal to the top of the Commander’s
footrest and on the edge of the trunking next to the Co-ax MG foot trigger.

Areas of heavier wear on the tread plates were

dry bushed with a very dark brown/black.

The turntable will receive the heaviest wear from the crew’s boots but there are also areas where Selected areas were then rubbed with Uschi van
40 it is impossible to stand. Here the dark areas of wear have been added to the floor. der Rosten steel pigment using a fingertip to just
pick up the raised detail.
 2

The edge of the floor panel here between the fighting

compartment and the bow would see higher wear.

Right An overall view of the floor at this stage. The shadowed

floorspace 2 is for a toolbox that sits under the Gunner’s seat
but had not yet been constructed.

The ammunition crate supports take some punishment as pictures of

captured Panzer IVs show so I added heavy scuffing to the contact areas.
This was started with the dark black/brown colour with some touches of red
3 oxide added on top.

Areas of heavy wear 3 where the Gunner’s feet rest and the working
floorspace for the Loader were treated with a polished finish to the chevrons.

Above No doubt the top edges of the supports would have served as an
improvised step for the crew so this was given a polished metal finish along
with the areas of heavy chipping.

Right The lip of the Gunner’s bucket seat were also given a similar highly
worn finish, starting again with the dark worn areas and followed by the
touches of red primer.

41
 Very limited areas of polished metal were added to the front edge of the seat Very light acrylic washes were used to bring out the texture of the seat
rim. cushion along with the same dirt colour lightly sprayed around the back edge
of the cushion where dust would collect.

At this point I added this heavier wear to the floor by drybrushing the same Nevertheless I moved ahead adding some metallic shine to the tops of the
metallic powder in between the chevrons. As soon as I had done this I had a gas mask cases.
feeling it was the wrong thing to do.

The Loader’s seat was tackled with a weathering look that was consistent The spare MG barrel case was glued into position allowing the seat assembly
with the rest of the interior. Liquid filler was applied to the tips of the clip at to still be removed.
the top of the MP40 rack and painted black.

42 Time to stow the MP40 which still needed a sling to be added. This was The strap was painted with the weapon glued into the rack and the finished
made using pewter strip which allowed me to get a natural hang to the assembly test fitted in position.
strap.
 I also reworked the top of the MG ammunition locker to represent the wear
caused by the Commander’s feet. The top of the Gas Mask case was also
I resolved to rework the polished areas of the floor by going over the areas
given a heavier worn look.
with washes of my dirt colour which killed the shine. I then repeated my dark
drybrushing and the fingertip rub to create the polished areas.

Another all important check of the appearance and balance of the I started work on weathering the front leg assembly. With cables running
weathering alongside the rest of the interior shows a better overall look. from these boxes up onto the turret ring the assembly sequence will require
careful planning.

A final dry fit of the turret basket parts provides good motivation for pushing with the project in the next
Issue. The project continues in the next Issue 43
 new releases
KEEPING TRACK

Meng 1:35 MB Military Vehicle ‘WASP’

A most unusual version of the obloquious Jeep is the latest ‘hot’ nicely done one piece body are all you need here and there’s
release in 1:35 from Meng, it would certainly take a certain kind of some really nice detail for such a small and simple build, nice
chap to climb into and drive behind enemy lines in such a small touches like steerable front wheels and full engine detail with
vehicle loaded with a large tank of such flammable liquid! The separate bonnet / hood feature and the wheels and tyres look
British special forces group in WWII created by Major Vladimir rather good. One of the sprues contains all of the parts for the
Peniakoff known as "Popski's Private Army" caused havoc behind WASP conversion with nicely moulded tanks and canisters, jerry
enemy lines in Africa and Italy in their modified Jeeps in an almost cans and the modified dashboard and bonnet. A piece of vinyl
old-school war comic style, one version of which is depicted with tubing is included to replicate the pipework, a small decal sheet
this kit being armed with the WASP flamethrower. Although this mainly provides dashboard gauges and placards and a small
version of the Willys MB is obviously niche all the pointers are clear sprue houses light lenses and a windshield which is unused.
there on the sprues for a more regular un-modified vehicle to be This looks like a very simple build of and interesting version of the
48
released in future; be prepared for a little shaving and filling of Willys straight from the box and it would be nice to see Meng
certain details to produce this version. Only two sprues and a very continue with other Jeep releases.
Tamiya 1:35 Panzerkampfwagen 38(t) Ausf.E/F
If some of the ultra-detailed modern kits with hundreds of parts good comprimise between individual links and ‘rubber bands’ with
are sometimes a little too much to take on, you can rely on ready moulded sag across the upper run. The hull shows some
Tamiya to keep on doing things their way with easy to assemble nice fastener detail and Tamiya have designed the complex
kits of popular subjects and this new 38(t) is sure to be a hit. The shapes with more builder-friendly construction in mind which
compact box holds no surprises; dark grey sprues (sharply follows through to the turret which features simple gun breech
moulded in typical Tamiya fashion), a piece of photoetch for the detail and the various rivet and fastener sizes nicely replicated.
engine intake mesh, polycaps for attaching the wheels and main The bonus of a figure finishes off another very ‘Tamiya’ kit, yes
gun and small decal sheet for two dunkelgrau finished vehicles. indeed there are plenty very nice 38(t) kits already available (which
The lower hull is the starting point of the build, being designed as of course Tamiya don’t make a penny from) with higher levels of
separate plates the detail is nice all-round with separate leaf detail, but for the more leasurly build or more novice modeller you
springs and nicely rendered wheels. Link and length tracks are a can’t go far wrong with a Tamiya kit.

Copper State Models 1:35 Romfell

This is probably a surprise release to most armour modellers, not and some nice finesse throughout, the chassis and engine are
so much the kit but because we’ve never even seen the vehicle assembled first followed by the armoured body which features
before! Austro-Hungarian armour of the Great War period in kit fully posable doors and hatches. Suspension is well detailed
form is rather thin on the ground (read as pretty much non- without being too fussy and the wheels look great with their solid
existent!) so this is really a niche topic from CSM who have built a covers and period rubber tyres. The choice is a really quick build
good reputation for kits of early aircraft (if you’re also a reader of with all hatches closed or go all-out with painted interior and
AIR modeller we featured their Nieuport recently). This great engine bay, either way this looks like a very solid build straight
looking period design is a fitting follow-on from their first vehicle from the box and a great looking vehicle. A final mention must go
release of the Lanchester (cast your mind back to issue 105) and to the beautifully produced instruction book with an authentic
is presented in a very similar, quality fashion. The sprues are well period look and packed with information and original images. 49
housed in heavy protective bags and a stout corrugated inner box.
The moulding quality is very good with very little clean-up required
 Worn Art Collection, Number One The start of a new series from AK focusses on topics involving various painting and
weathering techniques in a visual step-by-step presentation, the first edition features
Published by AK Interactive
wooden surfaces. Techniques are explained by leading modellers with a wide range
Softback format, 88 pages of topics including brushing methods on a new aircraft airframe, old weathered
ISBN 8435568306080 wooden buildings, painted rail car and crane cab and Russian truck cargo bed. Along
www.ak-interactive.com the way there’s plenty of associated modelling tips and tricks to accompany the paint
techniques with plenty for all modellers to learn regardless of ability. Great production
and design quality as we’ve come to expect from AK.

T-54/5 to IDF Tiran 4/5, The Following Volume one on the T-34 in IDF service the theme continues with the same
author (ex Merkava commander and doctoral student of Israeli military history) telling the
Birth of a Bastard Tank
intriguing story of the capture, adaption and service of the ’Tiran’ tanks through in-depth
Ma’or Levy knowledge and unique period images culminating in the deployment of the 274th
Published by AK Interactive Brigade fielding the Tiran. Images include an interesting series showing amphibious
Softback format, 88 pages landing training and some good modelling reference with images from the production
line upgrading the tanks to IDF spec. An attractive book which will be of equal interest to
ISBN 8435568305946 IDF enthusiasts and lovers of the T-54/5 alike and a great companion if you have any of
www.ak-interactive.com the recent MiniArt kits.

Panzerwaffe Tarnfarben Abt.502 are positioning themselves firmly at the ‘luxury / quality’ end of the market with their
finishing products and publications, this is certainly the case here with a visual potted history
Camouflage Colours and
of the German forces from WWI to the end of WWII. The presentation is excellent from the
Organisation of the German foil-blocked and laminated cover to the weight of paper inside; what you might call a ‘coffee
Armoured Force (1917-1945) table’ book. The contents are very visual with a mix of colour profiles (some more interesting
Carlos De Diego Vaquerizo than others) and a selection of some of the best known original colour images from WWII
Published by Abteilung 502 and good quality black and white shots. The text is light and mostly related to the images,
some of the translation has suffered but is still comprehendible. Organisation of the units is
Hardback format, 127 pages displayed in easy to understand diagrams of the vehicles and a section of Heer and SS unit
ISBN 9788412093506 emblem illustrations is good modelling reference. With so many books available on German
50
armour, if you’re an avid reader there’s probably not a huge amount of new information here
but for anyone seeking a general reference it’s a very good starting point.
Eduard
More 1:35 super-detailed weapon sets are
now available in Eduard’s vast catalogue
starting with the infamous panzerfaust, two
depicted as ‘armed’ and complete with
superb decals- 635016 is the reference.
635015 is a set of the British Sten MkII
complete with coloured photoetch slings
and optional stocks, 635013 provides eight
StG 44s with separate spare magazines
and coloured photoetch slings. 36415 is a
nifty trio of Israeli flags printed on both
sides of the ultra-thin photoetch, these are
often seen on armoured vehicles and very
easily shaped to suit your needs. All top-
quality stuff at www.eduard.com

Sovereign 2000
Many armour modellers we speak to, and ourselves x
included, enjoy the painting challenge (and resting their eyes
a little!) of a large scale figure. A couple of new busts in
S2K’s great range of value-priced 1:9 subjects. Very nicely
sculpted and cast are an SS grenadier of ‘Wiking’ in cold
weather attire (S2KB022) and an officer of
‘Grossdeutschland’ complete with neck scarf and binoculars.
Both come with a display plinth featuring the Divisional
emblem. Check out S2K’s full range of busts, 1:35 figures,
accessories and full vehicle kits; top quality and great value.
www.sovereign2000.uk.com

Panzers Forward With so many ‘WWII German Armour’ overviews out on the market this new release from
Stackpole could be easily overlooked as another generic guide but it’s in fact a great
Robert J. Edwards
collection of images at a bargain price. Some of the period images are familiar but most
Published by Stackpole are rarely or never seen in print and have a theme of the more realistic side to the German
Softback format, 285 pages war machine and not just the PK images of the Panthers and Tigers. Armoured cars feature
ISBN 9780811737708 heavily along with more ‘workhorse’ type vehicles and armour covering all fronts from pre-
war until the end. An interesting chapter contains a great selection of images and
www.casematepublishers.co.uk information on the development of the Trippel amphibious vehicle (essentially a big, fat
Schwimmwagen!) surely one of the only German rare beasts we’ve not had a kit of. Well 51
worth a look whether even you’re an avid collector of books and images.
 Tamiya 1:48 Panther Ausf.D
If you feel the love for forty-eight scale German armour you’re should take no more than a couple of leisurely evenings to have
probably very pleased to see a ‘D’ from Tamiya as their 1:48 ready to paint, of course detail usually suffers with a level of
Military Miniature series comes close to reaching 100 kits. This simplicity which is the case in places but there’s Tamiya’s high
series is perfect for the novice modeller or those of us who are standards of moulding and some nice textures and weld beads to
very short of time and like to finish and display their models in a keep us happy. The key features of this initial production of the
reasonable time frame and minimal space. Simplicity is the name Panther appear present such as fewer bolts around the road
of the game with minimal parts and the return of the unusual wheels and turret features. Couple of Kursk markings are provided
metal die-cast hull, in fact the hull is the only part in common with on the decal sheet. If you want something more than a weekend-
the previous released Panthers and probably present as these are style build there’s plenty of aftermarket available for these 1:48
available as finished collectables under the Tamiya ‘Masterworks’ kits to raise the detail levels.
brand. But we’re all about building our own models and this

Stalingrad
D-Day Miniatures
A very quaint little scene has been created by the sculpting
talent of Stalingrad with S-3578 ‘Love in Wartime 1943-’45’ with This excellent little ‘instant vignette’ was released at Scale
a male Russian tanker presenting some flowers to a bashful Model Challenge recently by the talented guys from D-Day. ‘De
female soldier. Both figures are beautifully done and designed Zwarte Duivels’ (Black Devils) depicts the elite Dutch Marines
to fit on a T-34, a bonus of a couple of cats, also looking a little famous defence of key positions in Rotterdam against German
affectionate, is included. Fantastic figures always at forces. Beautifully sculpted and cast and available as individual
www.stalingrad.diorama.ru figures or a full set from www.ddayminiaturestudio.com

Würzburg Radar & Mobile New to the ‘Camera On’ series by Alan Ranger is a fascinating photo-study created by a
24KVA Generator unique collection of images through the eyes of the crews operating these systems day to
Alan Ranger day rather than the usual PK professional shots which would have been published at the
time. These huge radar dishes must have looked somewhat futuristic at the time, along with
Published by MMP Books these various systems and their power generators comes a selection of the more mundane
Softback format, 64 pages. optial sighting equipment and searchlight units. Each image is complete with detailed
52 captions giving an excellent comprehensive reference to the German air defence equipment
ISBN 9788365958532
from development through to service throughout WW2. A very collectable series of rare
www.mmpbooks.biz images and great value.
Resicast 1:35 Simplex 40hp ‘Protected’
It’s great to see Resicast as active as ever with their superb kits, smaller components are neatly bagged and grouped according to
conversions and accessories with a great selection of subjects for the photographic assembly instructions. A small photoetch fret
Great War enthusiasts. A couple of versions of the British trench adds to the detail and a section of detailed track gives a good
tramways narrow gauge engines are now available, this 40hp start to some groundwork, Resicast have a great selection of
armoured version offered crew protection when operating close to figures to go with these little engines which would make a very
the front lines which was possible without the use of steam nice vignette of a trench scene of the ‘Tin Turtle’ in action.
engines giving positions away. The kit is beautifully cast in Top quality and interesting subjects as always from Resicast, go
Resicast’s usual mid-grey resin with minimal clean-up required, and take a look at their huge range at www.resicast.com.
the large armoured body parts are particularly impressive and

RPG Scale Model 1:35 SeaRAM and Phalanx close defence systems
Okay, a tenuous link to armoured vehicles but into curves, namely the Ku-band radar cover
these new releases from RPG are beautifully section which you can choose to leave open
done and too nice not to share! Both Naval revealing the interior detail) and the finesse of
weapons systems share a similar ‘chassis’ detail the kits are more suited to experienced
with the ‘Phalanx’ sporting a Vulcan multi- modellers. The flexible styrene is a nice touch
barrel 20mm cannon and the SeaRAM for the Vulcan ammo belts and weatherproof
packing Rolling Airframe Missiles. The kits gaiters, all very nicely done. A multitude of
come nicely packaged in almost cube-like finishes are offered with some quirky Naval
boxes with small sprues, beautifully moulded markings with full stencilling and technical
in mid-grey, flexible black, extensive placards. Simply great little kits which are
photoetch, decals and in the case of the packed with fine detail and offer a change 53
Phalanx turned brass gun barrels. Due to the from the usual subjects.
amount of photoetch (some requiring forming
 Live Resin
Some of our favourite figure manufacturers come out of Russia final modern Russian sample is an APC crewman LRM-35047
and you won’t find better than those on offer from Live Resin. who could work inside a hatch or stood on or next to the vehicle.
Concentrating on up-to-date U.S. and Russian military subjects It’s apparent that there’s plenty of armour modellers who like
they have a range of over 300 detail upgrade sets and figures all helicopters (plenty are available in 1:35; we rest our case) and if
of which are produced with the latest technology resulting in the you have the Kittyhawk or Academy ‘Hawk’ versions be sure to
most stunning detail you’ll ever feast your eyes on. A fantastic take a look at Live Resin’s range of crew, equipment and
new range of tough-looking Russian troops will provide both armament to enhance these models to another level. We’ve
seated and standing subjects to use with any of the selection of samples of the two pilot figures (LRM-35024, LRM-35025) who
vehicles on the market in 1:35, all are beautifully cast in resin with are looking futuristic in their ‘Air Warrior’ HGU56/P helmets and
staggering detail features and assemble very precisely. Seated selection of hands gripping different versions of Cyclic and
troops are all in the modern reversible camo suits and come with Collective control sticks to suit you chosen ride. Finally a nice
full quotas of equipment; LRM-35042 (machine gunner) and LRM- addition to modern Russian vehicles is this ultra realistic RP-
35043, LRM-35044, LRM-35045, LRM-35046 are armed with the 377VM1 Radio Fuze Jammer (LRE-35351). If you demand the
54 latest AKs. LRM-35039, LRM-35040 and LRM-35041 are standing ultimate detail and quality head over to www.live-resin.com and
guys in ultra-realistic relaxed poses. All of the figures will interact Facebook.com/LiveResin
beautifully with each other or work equally well on their own. Our
Dragon 1:35 StuG.III
Dragon’s sublime StuG. III series has another addition with the specific parts highlighted and a few bits of shaving, hole-drilling
Ausf.B version which draws on the previous releases for the and removal of detail to carry out here and there. For such a
majority of the parts resulting in a massive amount of sprues beautifully detailed kit the tracks are disappointing, not because
squeezed into the box. Fear not, you’ll only be using around 350 they’re the ‘DS’ single bands (I know the Editor would never use
of the parts to create what looks like a very accurate ‘B’ with the these but not a problem to me) but because the tooling must be
highlights of the kit being the excellent Panzer III based running getting tired and our sample suffers with softened detail and
gear (including a choice of sprocket wheel), a substantial amount some flash which could be impossible to remove. The tracks
of interior of the fighting compartment (including the L/24 7.5cm shouldn’t detract from another wonderful Dragon StuG. III,
gun and mount) and superbly detailed upper hull with posable certainly a kit for the more seasoned modeller but streets ahead
crew and maintenance hatches. Being a ’Smart Kit’ there’s only on detail compared to the vintage Dragon or recent Tamiya
photoetch where it’s really needed and there are some Abteilung- offerings of the ‘B’.

FAMO’s Sd.Kfz.9 18 ton Number 43 in the Nuts & Bolts series is a big one; both the book and the vehicle as the
mighty 18 ton FAMO gets the full treatment resulting in some of the best reference on the
Zugkraftwagen
market aimed directly at modellers. If you’re a collector of this series you already know
Dr Nicolaus Hettler these are comprehensive one-stop references with development and factory information,
Published by Nuts & Bolts technical details, variants, deployment, technical drawings and plans, colour profiles and
Softback format, 233 pages, walk-around colour images of restorations and components. There is also the usual look at
modelling the subject (including the Sd.Kfz 9/2 we featured in one of our early issues!) and a
English / German text superb collection of rare period images. This really is a bumper edition covering all of the 55
www.nuts-bolts.de versions you’d wish for details of, always highly recommended reading from these guys.
 FABIO SACCHI

1:35
ROOFLESS
56
RECCE
 CREATES THE RECONNAISSANCE VERSION OF THE M3A3 STUART
M3 light tank series was developed at beginning of WWII and Us Army decided to adopt M5 and left the M3A3 for the lendlease
rushed in production to fill the huge gap US Army had in armoured program.
warfare. First M3 were used in action by British forces in North British forces used M3A3 (renamed Stuart V) in all European
Africa during operation Crusader. theatres. Its ineffective gun was however becoming more and
Tank was so reliable to be renamed by its crew “honey”. more a problem, for this reason it was confined to
Unfortunately already during his first appearance it was clear that reconnaissance roles. To increase speed, a key factor in
the 37mm gun was becoming outdated. US industry however kept reconnaissance roles, its turret was eliminated and a cal. 0,50 and
in developing the tank and M3A3 was developed in parallel with a cal. 0,30 were installed on pintle. Turret ring was then contoured
M5 version. These new models had a much better shaped and by an armoured structure to offer a little more protection to crew.
sloped frontal armour and while M3A3 retained the stellar engine, During the Italian campaign all Commonwealth troops had these
M5 introduced a double Cadillac car engined powerplant. recce vehicles in units and they were even used as ammunition
carriers.

57
 BEST LAYED PLANS...
I always wanted to make a recce Stuart from the Italian campaign, in
Archives of Italian cities there is abundance of recce photos, especially of
New Zealand and South African vehicles. An AFV Club M3A3 and
Accurate Armour recce conversion I bought many years ago made a
perfect combo for this project. Unfortunately (as happen to us modellers,
initial idea faded away as new projects hit workbench, and these kits
stayed in storage for many years. Last year I wanted a relaxing project
for “summer holidays” so I decided to give it a go.

AFV Club M3A3 Stuart kit, even if it was released more than 15 years ago,
remains a great model with some nice details. Some tweaks may be
needed if you want to improve final result but they are easy and frankly
not too many. It can be an ideal weekend project out of the box.
Accurate Armour conversion is also pretty nice. It is a true “cottage
industry in the eighties style” resin but once you give right attention in
separating parts from casting blocks it comes together pretty well.

I started assembling running gear. I still consider AFV parts superior even
to new Tamiya in terms of detail and finesse. Only point that can be
improved are the connectors of rocking arms. AFV Club depict them as a
solid part while they were two parts, one on each part of rocking arm.
With a sharp blade I carved inner part and replaced it with a piece of 0.25
x 1mm ministrip This is actually the only needed improvement. Rest of
running gear parts went on pretty fast and well. Lower hull is molded as a
complete piece where you need to add rear engine wall and front curved
armour. Rear engine wall need some attention and a pair of dry fit: my hull
tub was slightly warped (probably after being stored for so long) but with a
little patience it fits well. Only a little touch of Mr Dissolved Putty may be
needed under towing pintles supports. Kit offers rear exhaust deflector,
however from photos this part is rarely seen on recces. I therefore applied
a protected mesh under rear armour wall, it comes from the Aber
selection and it is very well concieved.

Front curved armour plate is very good, it is the resin piece was fractionally smaller than
however missing transmission retaining bolts, plastic part. Rear wall was then added and to
AFV Club left five holes instead, so with four ensure future strength I glued on the upper
bolt made out a punch e die set: job done. rear a 2 x 4.8mm ministrip.
Note that the hole in the middle is …a hole, no When glue was set I then added all rest of
bolt to be added there. interior, including parts that go on upper hull
It was the time to add the interior from front. As I said before putting together this set
Accurate Armour. As said before attention is was like a 80s flashback: lots of details but you
needed to detach pieces from casting blocks. could see all the manual work of master
If you do it, assembly will be pretty pattern maker. So rare in todays perfection
straightforward. The only pieces that will need standard of 3D…
some tweak are the firewall and hull interior, The wireless set no.19 protection grills are
this latter is cast as a unique piece. It requires obtained from heat curved 0.25mm styrene
some patience in sanding away the bottom rod. At this point I had to paint interior before
casting base and it was a little bit warped (too closing up hull. I started with a coat of Lifecolor
many years on the shelf). A little attention and Flat White with a drop of Dark Sand. Then
several dry fits will make it then be coupled weathering started. These vehicles had a
with plastic tub. To facilitate I add two 0.25mm rather long operational service.
58
plastic sheets on the side walls as it seems
They were used in training in Egypt and then transferred to
Italy, sand abrasions and later Italian weather conditions shall
have taken quite a toll on interior conditions. I decided
therefore to go for a very worn out interior. First I used a piece
of sponge to tap scuffs and later I added layers of dust/dirt
and grime using Lifecolor Liquid Pigments and their oil
and grease effects. As stand alone it looked a tad
overdone but once completed it was ok (at least to
my eyes). With interiors finished it was time to close
hull and continue the build.
A minor problem on AFV Club happens on front
sloped part of hull. Once applied it has a noticeable
gap on both sides, fortunately it can be filled with a
welding line which I obtained with a 0.4 mm rod,
worked with TAMIYA Green cap cement and a sharp
blade.
The bow 0.30 barrel was substituted with Passion Model
metal part and lights brushguards were made out of 0.25 x
0.75mm heat formed ministrip. With same ministrip I also
replaced front climbing step. The Driver’s foldable windscreen
guides are on the thick side. I therefore thin them down with
sand paper and added some small details with 0.25 x 0.5mm
ministrip.
Accurate Armour offers in the kit a very nice photoetched
rendition of grousers holders, actually in both “early” and “late”
positioning. Photos of vehicle I wanted to depict showed an
early configuration, that’s means on front armour. As
these photoetched parts were then completely
hidden by grousers I preferred to make
new ones from ministrip and
save them for another
project.

59
THE DEVIL’S IN THE DETAILS...
The upper hull part requires the installation of the armoured walls 4 fixing points on hull sides and 6 holes on fenders side are
around the turret ring. AA supply it in a single piece, its a nice evident. Fixing points were obtained from some photoetched
piece but I did not like the base welding too much. I therefore spares and fenders holes were drilled with a 0.30mm drill.
removed it with a sharp blade and once glued to hull I replicated it AA resin weapons are ok. They have some nice points, such as an
with a thin strip of Tamiya epoxy putty worked with a scalpel tip. I open ammo tray with nice cartridges but I preferred to change
like Tamiya epoxy a lot, it dries in less than 24 hours and can be both of them with Tasca/Asuka parts.
smoothed with water. Just avoid working with it it as soon as you I left to last my choice of tracks. I discarded since the beginning
mix it, just let it settle down for 10 minutes. AFV’s supplied rubber band tracks. They are good, I simply prefer
Other details were photoetched tool straps and chains for fuel link by link tracks. I had available both AFV Club, Model Kasten
caps pins. Rear hull was built as per instruction. I however and Bronco link by link tracks. AFV are much easier to put
changed supplied spare tracks with Model Kasten parts and together, definitely, but they lacks some finesse, Bronco are also
scratchbuilt holders. The Left Hand Side track holder was left ok but Model Kasten are the most detailed even if the most
empty. In most photos it was evident the presence of two tedious to build as every track pack consists of 8 pieces!
Jerrycans holders probably for water. I therefore scratchbuilt Some hours (days) later the tracks were finished.
holders and used two Asuka Jerrycans. To storage space crews I then noticed a missing element: wireless set no.19 Headphones
used to weld empty artillery cases to the hull, I did this too and and speakers. You have it on figures but you don’t find them as
they come from AA range of accessories. separate items, for that reason I scratchbuilt mine with some
Some rear deck stowage was also added and covered with a tarp styrene and some photoetch leftovers.
made out of Tamiya epoxy putty. These vehicles were initially
equipped with sand shields and in photos were the were removed,

60
PAINTED FOR PRINCE ALFRED...

My least preferred part of modelling finally arrived.

During model construction Lifecolor was preparing
SET 2 for British vehicles, which included “dark
mud” and “blue black” Italian theatre typical
colours. So I decided to give them a go. What I
discovered was that most of the Stuart V recce in
Italy were NOT in such a scheme! Only South
Africans had them painted in this scheme and
actually vehicles came from Egypt already painted
like that.
I therefore opted for a Vehicle of Prince Alfred’s
Guards (PAG) in the Po valley from a photo caption
were was also possible to recognise registration
numbers.
Base painting was pretty straightforward I started
with dark mud and after that I applied blue black
camo. To facilitate camo application, I made
masking “templates” with silly putty. Very old
modelling style but quite effective to render a mild
colour blend.
I then painted all gear and applied tracks.
Weathering such contrasting camo can be tricky
because you risk making it flat or too dark
depending on which base you start. I went for a
traditional and simple technique.
I started with a pin wash of a mix of Payne Grey
and Sepia. Payne Grey bluish shade was a nice
touch to the base colours as both dark mud and
Blue Black have a cold hue.
Before keeping on with weathering I focussed on
hull behind running gears. Here I used an heavier
treatment: Humbrol wash “dust” with some plaster
for recreating caked mud texture. You need to build
it up in a couple of layers, leaving it dry at least
overnight.
The last touch were some darker areas of fresher
earth done with 502Abt Dark Mud oil wash.
Once running gear and tracks were assembled I
started with overall weathering.

61
 TURN TO DUST...
Again I went the “traditional” way: enamels
and oils. Two sand tones of Humbrol
enamels were airbrushed on sides and
corners, let it dry for a couple of minutes and
then with a flat brush moisted in Enamel
thinner it was removed with vertical strokes,
on the flat surfaces I used a pointed brush
and “moved” somehow the enamel pigments
to create some accumulations. I then let it dry
for a couple of days. At the point it looks quite
flat as you applied sandy colour on a sandy
base so to recreate a little bit of contrast I
apply very sparingly spot of Abt.502 oil dark
mud on sandy areas that were blended with a
pointed brush moistened in Enamel thinner.
That’s rendered a more pleasant contrast.
Actually you may have noticed how dust tend
to be of light shade on dark cars and the very
same dust look much dark shade on a white
car parked just nearby!

I then touched some reddish tone around fuel

caps and added some rust points where
empty shell cases were point welded to hull.
This was done with Lifecolor Liquid Pigments.
With Liquid pigments I then weathered Model
Kasten tracks, I prefer water based products
on them as they have the nasty tendency to
fall apart if enamel thinners are used.

62
PAVE THE WAY...
I wanted something that could place the
vehicle in Italy and more precisely North
Italy (near Po Valley). I ha some photos of
PAG vehicles entering Mantova so I made
some research to find a nice spot in
Mantova city back those days..
Some city roads were paved with large
stones and to making them I use Balsa
Foam
I then made with some pieces of balsa
foam also a wall piece. Bricks were actually
just impressed with a punch done with a
piece of square brass tube.
To seal and give some strength to balsa
foam, it is enough to paint it with two layers
of a mix 50% white glue and 50% water,
letting dry were well between the two layers.
Finally everything was covered with Lefranc
& Bourgeois acrylic gesso. I like the
consistency and texture of the brand,
however there are so many other brands
with different consistency and texture.

A nice touch was then the addition of street

accessories from HD Models 3D printed
catalog
The Street name plate, North Italy well and the
water manhole is a nice set and so good to
locate the model in a precise Italian area.
Painting was done with Lifecolor “white stone”
set, very handy thanks to the nice base
stones shades, Brick wall was painted with
two rust tones. Initially it seems too bright and
punchy but after weathering it tones down well
and keep a nice hue.
Weathering of the base was entirely made
with Liquid Pigments, they are pretty handy as
you can wipe them off with their remover if you
make a mistake or you do not like the effect.
Paving received also a layer of pigments and
for doing that I found Jose Brito turtorials very
helpful.

63
 As usual a figure was needed and as usual my
friend Giuseppe Ortolani painted masterfully an
Alpine offering, depicting a South African
soldier in an already warm Italian springtime.

Truly a fun project. Few issues and really a

unique subject!

64
65