Welcome to Fragrance 101

March 13, 2017

8:30 – 9:00 am Continental Breakfast

9:00 am Welcome & Introductions

Morning Session Introduction to Fragrance

Essential Oils
Natural & Synthetic Aroma Chemicals
Fragrance Formulation & Stability

12:00 – 1:00 pm Lunch

Afternoon Session Describing Fragrance Odors

Fragrance Pricing
Fragrance Regulation & Safety
Deriving Fragrance Trends

3:00 pm Poster Sessions

Hors d'oeuvres & Refreshments
 Return to Agenda

“The sense of smell is probably the very first sense to

evolve in a living creature. Back in the early days of
evolution when we began as single-celled creatures,
our sense of "smell" told us what was safe to eat. All
living creatures have a sense to detect chemicals in
their immediate environment.”
– Dr. Karl Kruszelnicki, ABC Science
“Even after 25 years I have
the chance to learn
something new everyday.”
Jim Powell
R&D Director / Sr. Perfumer
Cara Rogers
Perfumer
John Little
Perfumer
 Return to Agenda

Introduction to Fragrance

Steve Schuh
Sr. Director of Perfumery
“Perhaps the single most important element in mastering technique
is experience. Once you have the fundamentals, acquiring the
experience is a matter of time.”
— Greg LeMond

“There are three kinds of men: the ones that learn by readin’, the few
who learn by observation, and the rest of them have to pee on the
electric fence for themselves.”
― Will Rogers
Basic Perfumery

• Definitions / Brief History*

• Composition
• Fragrance Families
• Fragrance Development Process
• Balancing Act

*Table Top: “Scents Through Time”

Definition of Perfume
• Latin per fumum means “smoke through”

• Merriam - Webster
a: the scent of something sweet-smelling
b: a substance that emits a pleasant odor

• Fragrance Industry
combination of aromatic materials, natural and/or
synthetic, creatively blended using art and science to
deliver a predetermined desired benefit to a product
and elicit a positive response from consumers.
Composition

Fragrance Materials
• Essential Oils
• Aroma Chemicals
Perfumer Composer
• Fragrance • Music
• Art • Art
• Notes • Notes
• Accords • Chords
• Balance • Balance
• Harmony • Harmony
Perfumery Notes

Top

Olfactory Triangle Mid

Top: Amyl Acetate

Base
Mid: Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Base: Patchouli Oil

• Volatility Based on Molecular Weight

• Longevity / Substantive / Retentive
Fragrance Families

Classified by Common Character

• FRUITY (Amyl Acetate)
• FLORAL (Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol)
• WOODY (Patchouli)
• CITRUS
• SPICE
• HERBAL
Fragrance Development Process

• Concept/Project/Brief
• What Does That Smell Like?
• Idea Generation
• Formulation
• Smell
• Test
• Modify
• Submit
The Balancing Act

• Time
Multiple Trials for Creativity

• Cost
Jasmine Oil – $1,820/LB
Jasmine 50 – $4.20/LB

• Quality
L’Eau de Toilette
Water of the Toilet
 Return to Agenda

Questions?
 Return to Agenda

Essential Oils

Cara Rogers
Perfumer
What are Essential Oils?

• Essential oils are highly concentrated,

volatile oils extracted from plant material
that possess the odor and characteristic
properties of that plant.

• An oil is “essential” in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent,

or essence, of the plant. This scent may serve as a protective or
attractive “cloud”.

• In the fragrance industry, essential oils are used in fragrances

that go into cosmetics, soaps, detergents and perfumes.
Complexity of an Essential Oil

GC of Bergamot Oil

Every Bergamot is DIFFERENT!

History of Essential Oils
• The use of essential oils dates back to 4500 B.C.

• Ancient Egyptians among first to use essential oils in

medical practices and religious ceremonies.
– Cedarwood and Myrrh in the embalming process
– Traces of oils have been found in tombs today

• Over 150 references to essential oils in the Bible.

– Old Testament: Moses was given a recipe for a holy
anointing oil, which included Myrrh, Cinnamon, and
Cassia
– New Testament: The wise men brought Frankincense
and Myrrh as a gift to Jesus

• Essential oils reintroduced to modern medicine during the

late 19th and early 20th centuries to balance mood, lift
spirits, and dispel negative emotions.
 Where do Essential Oils come from?
Berries Seeds Bark Wood Rhizome Leaves Resin Flowers Peel

Juniper Cumin Cassia Camphor Ginger Basil Frankincense Geranium Lemon

Almond Cinnamon Cedar Bay Myrrh Ylang Lime
Anise Cinnamon Lavender Orange
Nutmeg Eucalyptus
Thyme
Rosemary
Spearmint

Neroli

Petitgrain

Bitter Orange

Bitter Orange Tree

Extraction Methods Steam Distillation
Sensitive

Most common method for essential oil extraction

1. Water is heated to produce steam
2. Steam softens/ruptures plant cells, and carries volatile compounds to condenser
3. Steam/EO flows through a condenser, cools and changes back to liquid state
4. Essential oil collects on surface
5. Hydrosol or plant water essence or floral water collects on the bottom.
• Rose water and lemon balm are popular
Extraction Methods Fractional Distillation

Ylang fractionally distilled

to produce four grades
Products of Steam Distillation

Juniper Berry Basil

Cedarleaf
Cypress

Chamomile
Extraction Methods Expression (Cold Pressed)
• Used to produce most citrus oils
• Pressure applied to peel to break open oil glands under surface
• Takes place at room temperature
– Citrus oils are cold pressed to preserve delicate structure

• Due to large quantity of oil in citrus peels and the low cost of
growing them, citrus essential oils tend to be cheaper
• Before distillation, expression was used to produce essential oils
Extraction Methods Solvent Extraction

Typically used when a plant/flower is too fragile to undergo steam

distillation (Jasmine, Tuberose, Neroli, Rose).

1. Organic solvent is used to wash plant material

2. Solvent dissolves extractable material, pulling out all lipophilic material
3. Solution is filtered and undergoes low pressure distillation to recover solvent
and concrete separately
– Concretes: Mix of essential oil, waxes, resins and oil soluble plant material
4. Concrete is washed with ethanol to separate aromatic molecules from
waxy material
5. When the alcohol evaporates, left with the absolute

PROS CONS
• Relatively fast • Produces a product
• Inexpensive with traces of solvent
• Fragile components retained
Extraction Methods Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE)

• Follows same method as solvent extraction,

with different solvent (typically CO2 ).
– Non toxic
– Non combustible
– Odorless

• Supercritical fluid can pass through solids like

a gas, and dissolve materials like a liquid.
– Penetrate and extract from micro-porous
substrates (gas-like diffusion properties)

• Advantages to SFE
– Product is solvent free
– Solvent is recyclable
– Extracts more compounds for better product

• Ginger SFE vs. Ginger Distilled

Extraction Methods Enfleurage

• Developed by ancient Egyptians

• One of the earliest forms of plant extractions
• Form of solvent extraction using animal or plant fats
• Glass trays are covered in an animal or plant fat
• Flowers are placed on trays and left for days or weeks
and replenished several times
• Fat absorbs essential oil and washed with alcohol
• Alcohol evaporates off and leaves essential oil
• Yields weaker product, as plant/animal fat does not pull
essential oils as well as solvents
• Fragile components are unharmed
Enfleurage
Aromatherapy

• Aromatherapy: The art and science

of utilizing essential oils to balance,
harmonize and promote the health
of the body, mind and spirit.
• History of Aromatherapy
– Credited to the French chemist
Rene-Maurice Gattefosse in the
early 1900’s

– Gattefosse was miraculously cured

after he treated a burn wound with
lavender oil

– Coined the term "aromatherapie" in

1928 to imply the therapeutic use of
aromatic substances (essential oils)
Essential Oil Claims
Essential Oil Benefit
Peppermint Relieves headaches and muscle aches
Treats respiratory problems, boosts immune system, relieves muscle
Eucalyptus
tension
Ylang I Relaxes and eases anxiety, antidepressant
Geranium Balances hormones in women, balances skin, relaxes and uplifts
Lavender Relaxes, treats wounds and acne
Lemon Uplifts and relaxes, treats wounds and infections, repels insects
Clary Sage Natural pain killer, treats muscle aches, helps with insomnia
Tea Tree Treats fungal infections, boosts immune system
Chamomile Relaxes, helps with sleeplessness and anxiety
Rosemary Helps mental stimulation, immune system and digestive system
Why use Essential Oils?
• They are unique
– Nuances cannot be achieved with synthetic aroma chemicals
– Geranium Recon vs Geranium Egyptian oil

• They add distinctiveness to fragrances

– Clary Sage Tea
– Ginger Fresh Citrus

– Opoponax Sweetness, Caramel

– Elemi Sparkle, Zest

– Davana Fig, Raisin

– Cardamom Fizzy, Effervescence

Cost of Essential Oils (and Quality)
Dependent on…
• Growing conditions
• Crop availability (weather, demand, politics)
• Essential oil content and yield
Eucalyptus– 30 lbs. leaves yield 1 lb. of oil ($10.65/lb.)
Ylang #1– 50 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($156/lb.)
Jasmine – 1000 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($2,350/lb.)
Rose – 3000 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($6,500/lb.)
• Harvest (when and how)
• Method of extraction
 Variability Among Essential Oils

• What’s in a name?
– Different species have different odor profiles
• Location, location, location.
– A plant grown in one area may produce an EO that smells
different than the same plant grown in a different location.
• Seasons change.
– This year a crop may produce an EO with more of one or
two specific aroma compounds than the previous year.
Misconceptions
• Essential oil blends are safer than synthetic fragrances.
• Consumers hear the word natural or essential oil and think
safe/added benefits.

Cinnamon Bark
Geranium (Egyptian)
Cinnamic IFRA, EU Allergen
Aldehyde Linalool IFRA, EU Allergen
Eugenol IFRA, EU Allergen
Citral IFRA, EU Allergen
Linalool IFRA, EU Allergen
Citronellol IFRA, EU Allergen
d-Limonene IFRA, EU Allergen
Geraniol IFRA, EU Allergen
Benzyl IFRA, EU Allergen
Benzoate
d-Limonene IFRA, EU Allergen
Cinnamic IFRA, EU Allergen
Alcohol
Coumarin IFRA, EU Allergen

Geraniol IFRA, EU Allergen

 Return to Agenda

Questions?
 Return to Agenda

Natural & Synthetic

Aroma Chemicals

John Little
Perfumer
Aroma Chemicals 101

• Definition of Aroma Chemicals

• Types of Aroma Chemicals
• Grouping of Aroma Chemicals
• Comparing Natural vs. Synthetic Aroma Chemicals
• Natural Licensing Standards
• Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrances
Aroma Chemicals 101

Aroma chemicals are an important

group of organic molecules used as
ingredients in flavors and fragrances.

Types of Aroma Chemicals:

• Natural
• Natural Identical
• Artificial/Synthetic
Natural

• Single Substances derived directly

from vegetable or animal product
by physical process:
– Distillation
– Fermentation

• Challenge: output is relatively low

and the consistency/quality can
be affected by weather and crop
variations.
Natural Identical

• Chemically isolated from

aromatic raw materials or
produced through synthesis.
• Chemically identical to the
original natural product.
• Major benefit is that large
quantities are produced to
meet demand.
Artificial/synthetic

• Created by physical or
synthetic processes in a
laboratory.
• Convenient availability
and lower cost.

Only in Mexico’s flea market

can you find NATURAL MUSK
incense for $1 a pack.
Grouping of Aroma Chemicals
Group Example of Aroma Chemical Sensory Notes There are approximately 3000
synthetic materials in the
Butyric Acid Buttery, fatty market today.
Acids
Pentanoic Acid Cheesy
Aldehyde C-7 Pumpkin, green, orange There are approximately 500
Aldehydic
Aldehyde C-10 Citrus, orange, peely, waxy naturally derived chemicals
Indole Moth ball, animalic that are commercially viable.
Animalic
Phenyl Acetic Acid Honey, animalic
Camphoraceous Isoborneol Camphor, pine needle-like
This table shows how aroma
chemicals can be grouped in
Citral Lemon
Citrus terms of sensory notes.
Citronellyl Nitrile Lemon, green, herbal
Earthy Iso Butyl Quinoline Earthy, mossy, tobacco
Ethyl Acetate Grape
Esters
Amyl Acetate Banana, pear
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Rose Amyl Acetate
Floral
Lilial Lily
cis-3-Hexenol Green, grassy, leafy
Green
Liffarome Watery, fruity, pear
γ-Decalactone Coconut, fruit, peach
Lactones
Aldehyde C-18 Coconut, lactonic
Eugenol Clove
Spicy
Cinnamic Aldehyde Cinnamon
Dimethyl Sulfide Onion, garlic
Sulfurous
Methylmercaptan Sulfury, cabbage
Terpenoids d-Limonene Citrus, orange, pine
Cedrol Cedar, saw dust
Woody
α- Ionone Floral, violet, berry
Pricing: Natural v$. Synthetic
Synthetic Price/LB Natural Price/LB
Aldehyde C-18 $10.90 Aldehyde c-18 $284.05
Amyl Cinnamic
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde $7.55 $110.80
Aldehyde
Allyl Caproate $8.00
Allyl Caproate $211.45
Allyl Heptoate $7.65 Allyl Heptoate $138.00
Amyl Salicylate $6.70 Amyl Salicylate $124.40
Benzyl Acetate $5.30 Benzyl Acetate $78.15
Benzyl Alcohol $5.80 Benzyl Alcohol $69.95
Cis-3-Hexenol $23.55 Cis-3-Hexenol $320.30

Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate $30.15 Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate $298.25

Heliotropin $17.85
Heliotropin $124.40
Maltol $13.30 Maltol $22.05
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol $6.80 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol $467.30
Vanillin $13.50 Vanillin $32.95

Natural aroma chemicals are generally more expensive than their synthetic
counterparts due to the processes involved in their production.
Natural vs. Synthetic

• Depends on the process from which it is derived

– Naturals from plants and animals
– Synthetics processes in the lab

• Availability
– Naturals generally have very low output
– Synthetics are widely available

• Product
– Quality and consistency highly affected by nature
– Synthetics are more stable and consistent

• Pricing – Naturals always more expensive than synthetics

Natural & Organic Certification Agency Standards
Ecocert Natural Product Association (NPA)
Ecocert was the very first certification company to The Natural Product Association (NPA) is the
develop standards for natural and organic
most widely used natural certification
cosmetics.
program for personal care products.
• It imposes a minimum of 95% of the total
ingredients to come from natural origin. • Products must be made up of only natural
ingredients.
• For natural and organic cosmetic label, a
minimum of 95% of all plant-based ingredients • For each ingredient, the substance must be
in the formula and a minimum of 10% of all listed as “generally recognized as safe” (GRAS)
ingredients by weight must come from organic by the FDA when used in accordance with
farming.
good manufacturing practices (GMP)
• For natural cosmetic label, a minimum of 50%
of all plant-based ingredients in the formula • Fragrances must be 100% natural.
and a minimum of 5% of all ingredients by
weight must come from organic farming.
Challenges Converting Synthetic to Natural Fragrances

• There are no naturally derived amber and musk materials

• There are no naturally derived lily and muguet materials
• Not all synthetic aroma chemicals have a natural equivalent
• There are no fruit essential oils
• The end product will most likely not have an identical odor
character as the target
• Expect higher prices…

No Mango Essential Oil…

 Return to Agenda

Questions?
 Return to Agenda

Fragrance Formulation & Stability

Jim Powell
R&D Director / Sr. Perfumer
Oxidation/Reduction

Oxidation of an organic molecule usually corresponds to

decreasing its hydrogen content or to increasing its oxygen
content.

RCH3 <-> RCH2OH <-> RCHO <-> RCOOH

Alkane Alcohol Aldehyde Acid

Reduction of an organic molecule usually corresponds to

increasing its hydrogen content or to decreasing its oxygen
content.

RCOOH <-> RCHO <-> RCH2OH <-> RCH3

Acid Aldehyde Alcohol Alkane

Oxidation is the preferred direction of reaction

Antioxidants

BHT
a-Tocopherol

BHA
Free Radicals

A free radical is an atom, molecule, or ion that has unpaired valence electrons or
an open electron shell and therefore may be seen as having one or more
“dangling” covalent bonds.

• Initiation reactions are those that result in a net increase in the number of free
radicals. They may involve the formation of free radicals from stable species
as in the reaction shown above or they may involve reactions of free radicals
with stable species to form more free radicals.
• Propagation reactions are those reactions involving free radicals in which the
total number of free radicals remains the same.
• Termination reactions are those reactions resulting in a net decrease in the
number of free radicals. Typically two free radicals combine to form a more
stable species, for example: 2Cl·→ Cl2
Why amber bottles?
Light – UV (UV Absorbers)
Ultraviolet (UV) light is
electromagnetic radiation with a
wavelength shorter than that of
Benzophenone 1
visible light, but longer than X-rays.
It is so-named because the
spectrum consists of
electromagnetic waves with
frequencies higher than those that
humans identify as the color violet Benzophenone 3

Unfragranced No UV Absorber With UV Absorber

Discoloration

Schiff’s Bases
Amine + Aldehyde
RCNH2 + OCR’ <-> RCNCR’ + H2O

+ = + H2O

Hydroxycitronellal Methyl Aurantiol Water

Anthranilate
What is a phenol?

• Class of chemicals containing an –OH functional group directly

bonded to a phenyl ring
Phenols, Fragrance and Stability

• Phenols play a key role in certain fragrance types

– Vanilla : Vanillin
– Sugar : Ethyl Maltol
– Spice : Eugenol
• Phenols readily react with charged metals such as copper,
magnesium, and iron
• Certain products are more likely to have these metals in the
base
Metal Complexes
EDTA

Vanillin

Iron: Red/Brown
Metallocene
Copper: Green/Blue
Temperature

• Temperature can be simulated in the

lab to predict the compatibility of
fragrances in applications.
• Reaction rate doubles for every 10oC

• Assuming the temperature is 25oC, one

year at room temperature would
correspond to:
– Three months at 45oC
– One month at 50oC
– This can be misleading, as reactions can
occur at 50oC that would not happen at
room temperature
Materials vs. pH
Materials vs. pH
• The pH directly influences
product stability. 4500
4000
• The addition of fragrance may
3500
alter the pH of the final
formulation, or in worst cases, 3000
disrupt the product. 2500
• Unwanted reactions can occur 2000
when introduced to acidic or 1500
basic conditions, as the formula 1000
will become less stable. 500
• An extreme product pH limits 0
fragrance ingredients that can 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
be used. Number of Materials
Issues in Product Categories
Personal Care Industrial
• Oxidation • Oxidation
• Temperature • Temperature
• UV • UV
• Discoloration • Discoloration
• Solubility • Solubility
Air Fresheners
• Oxidation
• UV
• Metals

Candles
• Oxidation
• Temperature
• UV
• Discoloration
• Solubility
Chelating Agents
• Chelating agents neutralize harmful metal ions found in water-based
formulations and processes.
• Protect against metal-catalyzed reactions that cause:
– product spoilage
– Discoloration
– Rancidity
– off-flavors/odors
• Improve efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants
• Play a crucial role in stability of personal care products
• Examples:
– Disodium EDTA
– Tetrasodium EDTA
– Versene,Ammonium citrate dibasic
Neutralizers

• Chemicals that change the pH of a system to be closer

to neutral (pH of 7).
• Allow for optimum pH range the product to be effective.
• Many thickeners or preservatives rely on pH for optimum
performance.

Examples:
– Triethanolamine (TEA),
– Sodium hydroxide (NaOH),
– Citric acid
– Glucono Delta lactone( GRAS)
– Lactic acid
– Aminomethyl propanol (AMP)-buffering agent
– Suttocide A- carbomer neutralizer
Product base formulation

• New product development

• Product reformulation/enhancement
– Stability of the finished product
– Microbiology
– Safety
– Regulatory
– New material integration
– Processing optimization
• Goals
– Cost effective
– Stable
– Safe for the consumers
– Conforming to regulatory inputs
– Marketable outputs (finished product)
Products: Conception to Consumer
Exploration
– The process of creating and shaping product ideas.
– End goal: create product concepts that score high in consumer research testing
– R&D, Marketing, Production, Sales

Development
– The process of turning ideas into functional prototypes
– Packaging developed or prototype testing
– Marketing refines their concept → appealing presentation to consumers
– R&D, Marketing

Commercialization
– The process of turning prototypes into finished products
– Product performance and safety testing
– Order Raw materials and packaging, create dossiers for markets
– R&D assists scale up operations, answers consumers questions
– Production, R&D, Sales
 Performance Parameters
• pH = -log10 (aH+)
pH <7 Acidic; pH >7 Basic
Safety and Consistency product= f(pH)
• Viscosity(cps)
Measure of resistance to stress
Thickness of liquid
• Rheometry
Studies the flow of liquids—Quantitative and Qualitative relationships
between deformations and stresses.
• Specific Gravity/Density (g/cm³)
• Refractive index
• Flash point(F)
• Determination of the active ingredients(%)
Analytical instruments (GC, HPLC, MS, FTIR), titrations
Stability Testing

• Ensures that a new or modified product meets the intended

physical, chemical and microbiological quality standards, as
well as functionality and aesthetics when stored under
appropriate conditions.
• Parameters to be monitored
– Integrity of the finished product
– Color, odor and appearance
– Weight changes in the container
– pH
– Viscosity
– Microbial tests
– Analytical data should be consistent.
• Methods
– Accelerated conditions (heat and UV chambers)
– Temperature extremes (freeze - thaw)
The Formulation Ingredients

• Functional raw materials

– The ingredients that make personal
care/cosmetics products work
– Surfactants
– Active ingredients

• Aesthetic Raw Materials

– Added to simply modify the
aesthetics of the formula
– Fragrance
Surfactants

• Surface Active Agents

• Compounds that lower surface tension between two liquids, or that
between a liquid and solid.
• Molecularly composed of two parts:
– hydrophilic (water loving) "head“
– hydrophobic (water fearing) “tail“

• Variants:
– Detergents (SLES, SLS, ALS, DLS, plantapon, gluco-tain clear)
– Emulsifiers (Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, polysorbate, glycerin)
– Wetting agents (anionic, cationic, amphoteric)
– Foaming Agents (Betaines, SLES combinations)
– Dispersants (Polysorbates)
Surfactants as:
Detergents Thickening Agents
• Surfactants added to water to act • Increase the viscosity of a solution or
as detergents liquid/solid mixture.
• Hydrophobic tails will be • Improved suspension strenghtens
surrounding the oil droplets product stability.
• Hydrophilic heads are attracted to • Viscosity modifiers depend on:
the water phase – concentration and type of surfactants
• Allows water to briefly mix with oil – ratio of surfactants, T, pH,charge density
• Physical mechanism required to
remove residue

OIL
droplet
 Emulsions
• An emulsion (Latin word=“milk”) is
a mixture of two/more liquids that
are stabilized against separation, by
incorporating the emulsifier.
• Surfactants act as emulsifiers
• The micelles = the small oil phase
droplets covered by the emulsifier
molecules. The Micelle
• The emulsions may be:
– water-in-oil(w/o)
– oil-in-water(o/w)
• Compatibility=f(polarity of oils)
• HLB scale
– Water-oil balance – determines how to
choose the best emulsifiers.
– Indicates the solubility of surfactant.
Active ingredients

• Materials defined as biologically active;

have interaction with or effect on any cell tissue in the human body
• Dosage dependant and classified as OTC drugs
• Regulated by Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act
• Must be listed first on the ingredient label
• Examples
– Sunscreens (benzophenone, octocrylene, avobenzone, homosalate)
– Acne treatment (salicylic acid, zinc oxide, cetrimonium bromide)
– Skin bleaching (Hydroquinone, Kojic acid, AHA, niacinamide, glutathione, Vitamin C)
– Dandruff treatment (zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole)
– Antiseptics (alcohols, benzalkonium chloride, cetrimide, triclosan)
– Antiperspirants (Al chlorohydrate, Al-Zr tetrachlorohydrate gly, methenamine)
– Antimicrobials (Triclosan, trichloroxylenol, trichlorocarbanilide)
Fragrances and their solubility
• Modern fragrances are complex formulated products, containing blends of
synthetically derived aroma compounds, essential oils with auxiliary
materials and solvents.
• Play large role in marketability and the appeal of product
• Generally taken as a single component in a formula, when in fact the
fragrance can rich well over 100 components.
• The fragrances could possibly disrupt the effectiveness of emulsion and
surfactant base, generating:
-discolorations in emulsions
-viscosity variations of surfactants
• Fragrance solubility depends on:
- the polarity of their components
- the solvent polarity
- best solvent=f( finished product components)
Primary Fragrance Solvents

• Dipropylene Glycol • Diethyl Phthalate

– Polar solvent for hydrophilic bases – Non-polar solvent for lipophilic
– PC products, industrial/sanitation, bases
air fresheners – Candles, industrial products
– High density
• Benzyl Benzoate
– Biodegradations
– Non-polar solvent for lipophilic
bases • Isopropyl Myristate
– Candles, lotion, PC products – Compatible with most end products
– Cost effective – Candles, PC products
– On EU Allergen list – No regulatory issues
• Dioctyl Adipate – Expensive
– Candles
– Higher cost than BB
– Low density
– Compatible with light paraffin
waxes
Secondary Fragrance Solvents
• Ethanol • Vegetable Oils
– Fine fragrances, air care products – Natural fragrance solvent
– Good all-purpose solvent – Not great with very polar materials
– Flammability issues or powders

• Propylene Glycol • Medium Chain Triglycerides

– Inexpensive – More compatible than vegetable
– Not compatible with some less- oils
polar fragrance materials – Cost effective
– Reactive with aldehydes – Natural

• Surfactants( non-ionic) • Mineral Spirits

– The lowest % of active surfactant – Air care products
allows more perfume available to – Not natural
the headspace – Not compatible with polar materials
– The greatest the number of
micelles, the less odor intensity.
Questions?
 Return to Agenda

Describing Fragrance Odors

Jim Powell
R&D Director / Sr. Perfumer
Describe That Odor

• In 3 Words or Less
• It’s All in the Families
• Essential Oil Families Chart
• Breakdown of Woody & Spice Families
• Aroma Chemical Families Chart
• Breakdown of Marine & Green Families
• The Creative Puzzle
• Classification and Description of Fragrances
• Conclusion
• Questions
In 3 words or less…

• ORC0701981
• ORC1104751
• ORC1106631
It’s All in the Families

• Materials are classified into families

– Both essential oils and chemicals
– Attempt to classify each material with
a single family designation
• Works for most materials
• Some gray areas
• Complexity within families
– Blends of materials synthetic and essential oils
• Fragrances are typically combinations of materials
from different families
– Fragrance ORC1106631
• Mandarin Oil
• Ethyl-2-Methyl Butyrate
• Galaxolide
 TABLE OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND ABSOLUTES
CITRUS LEMON BERGAMOT TANGERINE ORANGE MANDARINE BITTER ORANGE LIME GRAPEFRUIT

WOODY SANDALWOOD CEDARWOOD VETIVER PATCHOULI OAKMOSS ABS TREEMOSS ABS PINE NEEDLE OIL CYPRESS OIL GUAIACWOOD

SPICY CLOVE BUD CINNAMOM BAY NUTMEG PEPPER CUMIN CARDAMON CASSIA CORIANDER

FLORAL NEROLI PETITGRAIN MIMOSA ABS ORANGE FLOWER ABS ORRIS ABS VIOLET PAYS ABS VIOLET LVS ABS CHAMOMILE TAGETE

ANISE ANISE SWEET FENNEL BASIL TARRAGON MYRTLE CARAWAY

ROSE ROSE ABS ROSE OIL GERANIUM OIL GERANIUM BOUR. BOIS DE ROSE

LAVENDER LAVENDER ABS LAVENDER 40/42 LAVENDER 50/52 LAVANDIN GROSSOLAVANDIN ABRIALIS SPIKE LAVENDER

HERBAL LENTISQUE CARAWAY GINGER ROSEMARY THYME EUCALYPTUS MATE JUNIPER BERRY FENUGREEK

BALSAM PERU TOLU VANILLA TONKA CISTUS ABS LABDANUM

WHITE FLORAL JASMIN ABS TUBEROSE ABS YLANG YLANG

RESIN OLIBANUM BENZOIN OPOPONAX MYRRH ELEMI GALBANUM STYRAX

ANIMAL CIVET CASTOREUM

CITRONELLA CITRONELLA CY CITRONELLA JAVA LEMONGRASS CITRONELLAL LITSEA CUBEBA

MINT PEPPERMINT SPEARMINT PENNYROYAL MARJORAM CORNMINT

PINE PINE NEEDLE PINE YARMOUR FIR BALSAM CYPRESS

MISC. VANILLA ABS SEAWEED ABS BLACK CURRANT ABS ARMOISE

Woody Essential Oil Family

• Sandalwood
• Cedarwood
• Vetiver
• Patchouli
• Cypress
• Guaicwood
Spice Essential Oil Family

• Clove Bud & Clove Leaf

• Cinnamon Leaf & Cinnamon Bark
• Cassia
• Nutmeg
• Black Pepper
• Cumin
 TABLE OF AROMA CHEMICALS
AMBER AMBROXAN AMBRINOL KEPHALIS AMBROCENIDE KARANAL CEDRAMBER

ALDEHYDIC ALD C-8 ALD C-9 ALD C-10 ALD C-11 LIC ALD C-11 LENIC ALD C-12 LAURIC ALD C-12 MNA INTRELEVEN ALD

ANIMAL INDOLE SKATOLE IBQ ANIMALIS GRISALVA INDOLAROME PHENYL ACETIC ACID ETHYL PHENYL ACET.

WOODY CEDRYL ACETATE KEPHALIS VERTOFIX VETIVER ACETATE CEDROL ISO E SUPER IONONE ALPHA VERTENEX

CITRUS CITRAL CITRONELLAL CITRONELLYL NITRILE DIPENTENE RHUBAFURAN CITRATHAL MANDARINAL

FLORAL LINALOOL TERPINEOL HYDROXYCITRONELLAL NEROL TERPINYL ACETATE AMYL SAL. DIMETOL NEROL

FLORAL LYRAL LILIAL CYCLAMEN ALD. HEDIONE FLOROL STYRALLYL ACET. BOURGEONAL

FRUITY AMYL ACETATE ETHYL ACETATE ALD. C-14 ALD. C-16 ALD. C-18 E2METH BUTYRATE PHENOXY ETHYL ISO BUTY. VERDOX

FRUITY NONADIENAL ALLYL CYCLO PROP ALLYL CAPROATE MELONAL ETHYL PROP. FRUCTONE ALPHA DAMASCONE

GREEN ISO ANANATE C3H ACETATE C3 HEXENOL TRIPLAL HEXYL ACETATE TRANS 2 HEXENAL CYCLACET

JASMIN BENZYL ACETATE AMYL CINN. ALD. BENZYL PROPIONATE BENZYL CINNAMATE BENZYL SAL. BENZYL ALCOHOL CIS JASMONE

MARINE/OZONE CALONE DIHYDRO MYRCENOL SCENTENAL FLORALOZONE PRECYCLEMONE B FLORHYDRAL ADOXAL

MINTY/CAMPHOR MENTHOL CAMPHOR CRY. MENTHYL ACETATE L CARVONE MENTHONE CAMPHOR OIL ANETHOLE

MUSK MUSK XYLOL TONALID GALAXOLIDE HABANOLIDE AMBRETTOLIDE ETHYLENE BRASS. EXALTOLIDE MUSK 144 (ED)

NEROLI LINALYL ACETATE METHYL ANTH. NEROLIN CRYSTALS YARA YARA DIMETHYL ANTH. ANISIC ALD.

PINE ISO BORNYL ACET ALPHA PINENE BETA PINENE TERPINOLENE UNIPINE VERDOL

ROSE CITRONELLOL PEA GERANIOL PHEN ETH ACETATE PhEtPh ACETATE DAMASCONE BETA GERANYL ACETATE GERANYL BUTYRATE

SANDALWOOD SANDELA EBANOL SANDALORE SANJINOL BACDANOL OSYROL JAVANOL

SPICY CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE EUGENOL ISO EUGENOL METHYL ISO EUGENOL CINNAMIC ALCOHOL METHYL DIANTILIS CIMINIC ALD.

SWEETNERS VANILLIN ETH. VANILLIN HELIOTROPINE COUMARIN VANITROPE MALTOL ETH MALTOL COUMAREX

VIOLET MOC UNDECAVERTOL VELOUTONE IONONE BETA IRALIA VIOLETTYNE IONONE GAM. METH
Marine Aroma Chemical Family

• Calone
• Dihydro Myrcenol
• Scentenal
• Floralozone
• Adoxal
Green Aroma Chemical Family

• Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate
• Cis-3-Hexenol (Leaf Alcohol)
• Triplal
• Hexyl Acetate
• Verdyl Acetate
The Creative Puzzle

Materials
Learning to identify and classify materials
Creativity
The creative process begins at this step
Accords
Not every rose is a rose is a rose
M&A
This is where it gets interesting
Fragrances
“Fresh and Clean”
Classification and Description of Fragrances

• It’s “Fresh and Clean”

– Universal consumer term for “I like It”
– As professionals we should avoid its usage
• Finished fragrances are like materials in classification but…
– Typically a combination of several families
• Fruity-floral, citrus-green, lavender-herbal
• Described by more dominant note
• Top, Middle and Base Notes
– Not always appropriate
Conclusion

• Communication is key
• The same words can describe different fragrances
• Essential oils and aroma chemicals are classified into families
• Fragrances are a combination of both
• “Fresh and Clean”
• Finished fragrance classifications
• Top, middle and base notes
 Return to Agenda

Questions?
 Return to Agenda

Fragrance Pricing

John Little
Perfumer
Why should we talk about it?

• We’re asking for your money; you deserve to know how we

approach costs and what that means for your fragrances

• We believe transparency about our pricing fosters a dialogue that

helps us create better fragrances for our customers

• Price is no different than character: every customer has unique

requirements and limitations

• Price is a critical consideration during fragrance creation and directly

impacts:
– Character
– Quality
– Strength
– Performance
So, what am I paying for?

• Our pricing depends on three factors:

1. Labor
2. Raw material cost (RMC)
3. Keeping the lights on
• Some materials simply cost more
– Constant evaluation of new and old materials from different suppliers
– Balancing character and cost
• Longer formulas take longer to produce
– Every extra material is an extra step in manufacturing your fragrance
– The average length of a formula varies widely, but can easily exceed 40 unique
materials
– A 400lb order is not 16x more labor intensive than 25lb; we pass these savings to our
customers
What this means to you

• The factors effecting how we quote a fragrance (cost of labor plus

materials) are essentially fixed

• Something has to give

• Lowering the cost of a fragrance requires changing it

• Information about customers’ cost requirements will never impact our

price quote
– Tiered pricing is automatically calculated using RMC and line items
– Perfumers are only concerned with getting you the best fragrance possible
• Changing the price of a fragrance changes the fragrance.
– Character, quality, strength, and performance will suffer
– Sharing your unique pricing requirements gives us the opportunity
How we make fragrances cheaper

• Dilution
– Solvents such as Benzyl Benzoate, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate are cheap
and are odorless
– Can improve solubility in finished application
– Very effective when initial fragrance is very expensive
– Less effective when fragrance is already very dilute
– Negatively impacts strength
• Substitute materials
– Similar smelling, but cheaper materials can stand in for the more expensive ones
– Changes the character
– Imitation is flattering, but not a true replacement
– A single material might require multiple to substitute (Recons)
• Reduce materials
– Lowers labor
– Combine similar smelling materials
Replace

Ambermor Ambermor Recon

• Sophisticated amber material • Combination of five aroma
• Excellent impact and chemicals and one natural
character in most applications • Commonly used materials
• Very long lasting performance available from multiple
• Excellent fabric care suppliers
performance
• Quality is highly dependent on $7.47/lb
supplier

$328.85/lb
Replace and/or Reduce

Dynascone Isoananate
• Exceptional bloom and impact • Single aroma chemical with
• Long lasting green galbanum and
• Popular note in men’s types pineapple like nuances
• Long lasting performance in • Commonly used in
laundry care combination with similar
materials such as Dynascone
• Patented material limited to
one supplier • Multiple suppliers

$69.85/lb $14.51/lb
Balancing Act

• Optimizing a fragrance normally requires multiple approaches

• A fragrance will change in proportion to the original and final cost
– No amount of creativity can replace money and materials
• Some fragrances are easier to reduce in cost than others
– Key materials may dramatically change the starting character
– A perfumer may use their expertise to recommend an alternative depending on the
flexibility of the project
• It can be hard to predict how expensive a duplication will cost
beforehand
– Analysis may determine the costs being well above an acceptable price point
– Having a familiarity of what price is acceptable beforehand can slash development
time and get a fragrance out sooner
• Communication on price is just as important as character and
product type
 Return to Agenda

Questions?
 Return to Agenda

Fragrance Regulations & Safety

Cara Rogers
Perfumer
What does it mean to be regulated?

• All industries are effected by regulations

• Create and enforce rules that might not otherwise be

followed for a common good

• Regulations are complex and often overlap

• Can effect related industries not within the initial scope of

regulations
IFRA
• Self- regulating system of the fragrance industry

• Based on risk assessments carried out by an

independent expert panel

• GOAL – safe use of fragrance ingredients

• Globally accepted and recognized risk

management system
RIFM
Research Institute for Fragrance Materials

• Scientific arm of IFRA

• Expert panel that instructs IFRA to issue a standard

• Comprehensive dossiers on the fragrance materials

• Expert panel: dermatology, toxicology, pathology and

environmental sciences

• 174 substances that are either banned, have specifications or

are restricted in their use in fragrance products
IFRA Categories

• Restrictions are specific to product categories

• Different products have different exposure risks

– Candles (category 11) vs. lip balm (category 1)

• Started in 2006 with the 40th amendment (48th as of 2015)

• Before the 40th amendment—leave on and rinse off products

• Fragrance materials are evaluated for their Quantitative Risk

Assessment (QRA) for each category
– SAF: sensitization assessment level
– CEL: consumer exposure level
– AEL: acceptable exposure level
IFRA Standards

• Prohibited: cannot use at all (0.1% is acceptable as

“unavoidable impurities” in raw materials such as essential oils)

• Restricted: can use the material but only below a certain

concentration in the finished product

• Specification: adhere to specific purity criteria

Fragrance Development

• Fragrances are always formulated to be skin safe according to:

– End user
– Product type
– Usage level

• Changes to any of the above requires reevaluating the

fragrance for suitability in final product

• Discuss potential/probable line extensions with salespeople

• Raw materials are continually reviewed for safety

• Changes in IFRA standards impact existing fragrances

 Return to Agenda

Questions?
 Return to Agenda

Deriving Fragrance Trends

Valerie Sprovieri
Marketing Specialist
 Whether B2B or B2C, I passionately
believe that good marketing
essentials are all the same. We are
all emotional beings looking for
relevance, context, and connection.
– Beth Comstock, CEO of General Electric
Market Research Resources

Partnering with Orchidia provides you

with insightful market research from a
variety of marketing services.
We are always available in the event you
need additional research or consultation.

Active Subscriptions
• Mintel GNPD and Market Insight
• Statista: Statistics Global Database
– Euromonitor International
– Datamonitor
Additional Resources
• Trade Publications and Associations
• Trade Conferences and Exhibitions
• Google Alerts and Google Trends
• Social Media Monitoring
Example Research |

Top Fragrance Groups in Personal Care Products

When looking at a
North America, 2014 - 2016 customers’ product line,
1 Floral we use similar data to
perform a gap analysis.
2 Fantasy
3 Gourmet/Edible
4 Fruity & Gourmet/Edible
5 Green/Herbal/Woody
6 Aromatherapy/Mood Enhancement
7 Fruity & Floral
8 Citrus
9 Outdoor
10 Locational
Example Research |
U.S. Market Share of Air Care Products (2012 – 2016)
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
60.0%

50.0%

40.0% Very little change

in market share
30.0%
over the past five
years.
20.0%

10.0%

0.0%
Spray Plug-in/Electric Candle Liquid/ oil Potpourri
Trends Are a Funny Thing

✓ Unpredictable & Challenging

✓ Is it a fad or a trend?
That is so fetch!
✓ Will history repeat itself?
✓ All Your Eggs in One Basket
✓ Consumer Perception

Stop trying to make ‘fetch’ happen!

Our Research Methodology
Creating scents that connect with people on an
olfactory and emotional level is no small challenge.
That is why Orchidia approaches this important
undertaking in an exceptionally robust and
painstaking way.
The Human Algorithm, is a process by which we
take an exhaustive look at key facets of life today:

✓ Music ✓ Politics ✓ Apps

✓ Food ✓ Social Media ✓ Urban Planning
✓ Beverage ✓ Technology ✓ Entertainment
✓ Fashion ✓ Science ✓ Travel/Leisure
✓ Education ✓ Architecture ✓ Latin America
✓ Environment ✓ Design ✓ Asia
✓ Economics ✓ Art ✓ Europe
The Human Algorithm | 2017 Trends
ARTISAN

GLOBALIZATION
VISUAL INFLUENCE

DISRUPTIVE IDEAS
Orchidia Fragrance Trend Kits

Various Orchidia
fragrance kits from
throughout the years.
Click on a thumbnail
to play video.

Season of the Witch 2016 Season of the Witch 2017

Evolutions of Man Americana Fragrances ICE Fragrances

2018 Fragrance Trends Coming Soon

For more information, please contact your

Orchidia sales representative.

www.orchidia.com | sales@orchidia.com