154 H.T.

Biana
DLSU Business & Economics Review 30(1) 2020, p. 154-164

RESEARCH NOTE

The Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture as Sustainable

Fashion
Hazel T. Biana
De La Salle University, Manila, Philippines
hazel.biana@dlsu.edu.ph

Wang et al. (2019) proposed a sustainable fashion index model that aims to measure the sustainability of fashion companies.
The model is interesting because of its underlying theory, which provides necessary dimensions and variables that make
the fashion industry and its activities sustainable. This paper aims to employ these dimensions and variables as theoretical
concepts to evaluate the sustainability of Philippine ukay-ukay culture. Ukay-ukay is a term used both for the act of shopping
by digging up piles of used or pre-loved clothes until one makes a good find. It also refers to retailers of secondhand clothes
and accessories in the Philippines. The sustainable fashion theory posits that for fashion to be sustainable, it must strive to
achieve and balance specific economic, environmental, cultural, and social objectives. As part of the three fashion business
models, what then are the relationship of the ukay-ukay to these other models, the fast fashion and luxury fashion models,
and how does it fare in terms of sustainability. Through theoretical analysis of ukay-ukay’s quality and value, customers and
relationships, processes, expressions and meanings, and legalities and charities, this paper found that ukay-ukay can actually
be an alternative model for sustainable fashion with certain limitations.

Keywords: ukay-ukay, sustainable fashion, slow fashion, fast fashion, secondhand clothes

JEL Classifications: L67, Q56

Fashion designers and brands all over the world thousands of dollars. Though, a person on the street
feature their latest collections in Fashion Week. The can barely afford an Oscar de la Renta, a Gucci,
most famous of these events are the “Big Four,” or a Louis Vitton. These luxury brands are quite
namely, Milan, Paris, New York, and London. Runways expensive, and a person who owns such will keep
in the Big Four showcase the newest designs for the them forever if they can. Alternatively, if they let
media and possible buyers and retailers. These shows go of them, they resell these items for a hefty price
also influence and spark global fashion trends as “name or pass them on to others.
brands,” or well-known clothing companies, are the In the Philippines, although Fashion Weeks
ones usually featured in such affairs. The clothes and are held twice a year, most brands featured are
accessories sold by these name brands could go up to fast fashion brands or brands by more affordable

Copyright © 2020 by De La Salle University

The Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture as Sustainable Fashion 155

retailers. Clothes do not go up to a thousand dollars, Three Fashion Business Models

but a few thousand pesos or even less. Some of
these brands include SM Department Store, H&M, The Fast Fashion Business Model
Bench, Avon Fashion, and Human. These are known Consumer fashion behavior has changed throughout
as fast fashion brands or brands that offer “low cost the years. They are more demanding and discerning,
and flexibility in design, quality, delivery and speed they demand retailers to produce fashion quickly
to market” (Bhardwaj & Fairhurst, 2010, p. 165). when they need it, and they demand convenient,
Also known as “throwaway” fashion, fast fashion quick, or fast fashion. In particular, Generation Y
was a response to the changes in the industry in prefers cheaper clothes that are of lesser quality vis-
the past three decades, such as the fading of mass a-vis older generations that prefer more expensive
production, fashion seasons, and restructuring of but higher quality clothes. Although previous fashion
production operations. companies focused on their product, competition has
Although most revenue is generated in China, in forced them to convert into being buyer-driven. This
2019 alone, revenue in the fashion segment amounts means advancements in alliances with suppliers in
to US$ 229M with an annual growth rate of 9.9% in different markets and recalibrated infrastructure to
the Philippines (Statista, n.d.). Due to Filipino’s mall promote reduced lead times while maintaining low
culture and entry into the market by huge but more production costs (Bhardwaj & Fairhurst, 2010). For
affordable name brands such as Uniqlo, H&M, Zara, example, fast fashion companies such as Zara delivers
and Forever 21, fashion has come to be such a huge their collection to stores in two weeks; Forever 21 does
industry in the Philippines. Considering this, it is so in six weeks, and H & M in eight weeks (Buzzo &
quite unsurprising that the Philippines also has a huge Abreu, 2019, p. 7).
secondhand clothing trade. Fast fashion has grown 9.7% per year over the last
For more than 50 years, secondhand clothing five years, defeating the 6.8% increase in traditional
has already been sold in the country. The halukay apparel companies (Tan, 2016). The unexpected rise
or ukay-ukay culture was born out of the desire for of fast fashion is attributed to the millennial who can
“good quality, unique design, fashionable, same as be described as someone who is part of “a generation
brand new” clothing without the hefty price tag (Isla, raised to shop” (Bain, 2015). Most of them see
2013, p. 231). Philippine consumers have the choice shopping as a form of entertainment, or perhaps, a show
of wearing secondhand luxury brands that were not of “luxury.” Furthermore, people who shop fast fashion
mass-produced or firsthand fast fashion brands that are tend to buy clothes even if they do not need such items
a dime a dozen (or even firsthand luxury brands that if only to stay trendy. Rapid production of clothing is
could break the bank). an effect of the constantly changing styles that makes
Incidentally, the difference between the choices it difficult for many teenagers to resist shopping and
mentioned does not only impact the consumers’ fit into the current fashion trends (Tan, 2016). Just to
perceived image of themselves or their savings give an idea, in a survey, one-third of the respondents
account. Each type of fashion choice has a cost, the claimed that, on average, clothes get old after wearing
more expensive of which is the cost of fast fashion. them only thrice (Buzzo & Abreu, 2019, p. 2).
The preference for more affordable, easily-produced Fast fashion is largely supported by the belief that
clothing contributes to unsustainable fashion, and consumers buy in large quantities and dispose of the
there are quite a few controversies that may arise clothing after some time (Jung & Jin, 2016). Hereafter,
with it from unjust working spaces to detriments to the phenomena of sourcing manufacturing and
the environment. processes in the fashion apparel industry to offshore
This paper aims to look into the ukay-ukay business places with low labor costs became a trend, thereby
model of fashion, and how it relates to other business resulting in a substantial cost advantage. In actuality,
models, such as the fast fashion and luxury fashion the impression of cost savings by subcontracting
models. Finally, it determines whether it is sustainable manufacturing to low wage nations turned out to
using the sustainable fashion theory, which is the basis be misleading as the savings sometimes were low
of the sustainable fashion index model proposed by compared to the cost of uselessness, compulsory mark-
Wang et al. (2019). downs, and inventory carrying costs.
156 H.T. Biana

There is so much waste with fast fashion compared perceived as environmentalists. The problem is that
to buying one item that is of high quality; one purchases most people do not have a deeper understanding of
more items that are of low quality. The old low- slow fashion, its alternatives, and sustainable apparel.
quality merchandise is then disposed of immediately, Slow fashion products are not necessarily luxury
considering the affordability of new low-quality pieces fashion products. Besides the high price and fine
of clothing (Bhardwaj & Fairhurst, 2010, p. 170). Fast quality and craftsmanship of luxury items, they bring
fashion satisfies people’s constant need for new things history and heritage. Specifically, these unique products
due to its mass production and low prices, making it are made by “elaborate craft ateliers” who hail from
affordable and convenient to purchase. It continues to “generations of artisans.” Similarly, environmental
be widely produced and purchased in today’s society effects are not much of the consumer’s concern when
despite unsustainability (Joy et al., 2012). they buy these luxury items because “most ateliers are
Why is fast fashion unsustainable? Some reasons attached to big fashion houses located in major fashion
include unethical working conditions and prevalent cities, such as Paris and Milan” (Joy et al., 2012, p.
capitalism that manifest into economic injustice; 287). Ironically, luxury fashion is not necessarily
environmental impact due to the use of chemical sustainable fashion. “Gold” fashion or luxury fashion
dyes and non-durable textile, therefore, worsening is not necessarily “green” fashion. However, as luxury
the condition of garments being thrown into landfills; clothing highly influences trends, it can pave the way
and overconsumption brought about by the industry’s for eco-friendly or sustainable fashion (Joy et al., 2012,
seasonal mass production (Mukherjee, 2013; Warren, pp. 289–290).
2000). Most clothes are also made with plastic fibers
(Buzzo & Abreu, 2019, p. 7). The Halukay /Ukay-Ukay Business Model
A famous television ad once featured a woman
The Slow Fashion and Luxury Fashion Business making a pun about her purchased clothes, that they
Models were from the U.K., the UKay-UKay. “Ukay” is from
Slow fashion is concerned with quality and the the term “halukay,” which means to dig up (Locsin,
process of making clothing. Although more expensive, 2007). Shopping is done by digging up piles of clothes
it can withstand the test of time. With the bigger until one makes a good find. An “ukay” in turn is then
amount of effort and time spent on manufacturing, the a find or the article bought. In Baguio, for example,
producers enhance the quality of the product, making it huge piles of secondhand clothes are on the streets,
more durable. Consumers are expected to buy less but and shoppers gladly dig through or do the halukay in
at a higher quality. Fast fashion is largely dependent search of the perfect ukay. The ukay-ukay, however,
on volume and budget; whereas in slow fashion, the when contrasted against the luxury and fast fashion
manufacturing and consumption are up purchasing business models, is quite non-traditional. Profit is made
the value of the clothing produced (Jung & Jin, 2016). from other people’s discarded clothing, and turnover
Inspired by the “slow food” movement vis-a-vis is not based on seasons nor catwalk trends. Such trade
the fast-food movement, slow fashion promotes can actually be traced to centuries back.
“innovations, multifunctional and timeless design, In the late 1800s to the early 1900s, religious and
reuse of textile materials and services based on NGO groups in the United States and the United
alternative strategies such as leasing (or leasing) of Kingdom collected clothes and other household goods
fashionable garments and accessories” (Buzzo & from more affluent people to sell to the needy at lower
Abreu, 2019, p. 2). As most consumers may not have prices. The Salvation Army and the Red Cross were
substantive knowledge of slow fashion, they still some of these. Through these thrift shops, unwanted
purchase from fast fashion brands. With old clothes goods were given second lives. In contrast, Filipino
being rapidly replaced by new ones, this opens the secondhand retail stores were not patterned after
issue of how problematic the fast fashion industry is. their Western counterparts. They were not put up by
Consumers who have firm environmental beliefs are religious groups nor targeted towards the needy. Their
more likely to perceive slow fashion and sustainable goods were also not donated or collected but rather
apparel positively. Moreover, individuals who showed “bought” from suppliers from Hong Kong, Europe,
strong environmental values are the ones who are the United States, Australia, and Japan (Locsin, 2007).
The Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture as Sustainable Fashion 157

The most famous ukay-ukay stock suppliers would social needs should also be met, and these include
be from Hong Kong. Filipino ukay-ukay businesses social attributes such as “job security, fair wages, and
would get their stocks through warehouses, ship them professional quality of life” of workers in the fashion
to the Philippines through balikbayan boxes, and sell industry (Buzzo & Abreu, 2019, p. 7) and economic
them themselves or through other retailers. These attributes such as “price and promotion advantages”
boxes usually end up in Baguio, where the secondhand for customers (Wang et al., 2019).
retail trade thrives in the country. Sometimes, the Hong The sustainable fashion theory posits that for
Kong suppliers identify these boxes per their contents fashion to be sustainable, it must strive to achieve and
as Class A, B, or C. “Class A refers to all quality and balance specific economic, environmental, cultural,
brand name goods. Class B boxes may contain a mix of and social objectives. Beginning with economic
quality and so-so items. Class C boxes contain the ‘not objectives, a fashion company must strive for company
so-good’ items… In ukay-ukay parlance, brand name profitability, which includes “price, quality, promotion,
items are called ‘signature’ or ‘branded’” (Locsin, management quality and service systems” (Wang et
2007). Whether Class A, B, or C, all the contents of al., 2019). Fashion products being sold should be
the boxes get sold to retailers. Class C boxes, on the of high quality alongside other added values such as
other hand, have their contents sifted through by the customer service in order for consumers to “perceive
hierarchy of retailers wherein those who do not have sustained profitability” (Wang et al., 2019). French
formal stalls end up with the items of less quality at philosopher, Jean Baudrillard, would define such
prices ranging from Php5.00 to Php50.00 per item. objective as the consummation of a sign-value or
Easily, a buyer could end up with an old branded shirt the fashion commodity’s relevance to the consumer
at Php20.00, and this could already be a 300% markup (Kellner, 1994, p. 125). When the buyer purchases the
for the seller. piece of clothing, he or she is not merely purchasing
When a consumer is faced with the choice of the commodity itself but the sign value attached to it as
purchasing a secondhand signature product at well. The sign value can be attributed to its management
Php20.00 versus a fake authentic quality product at and service systems, and this may include promotions
Php150.00 versus another fast-fashion product that such as advertising, mass media, and other cultural
mimics a luxury brand at Php500.00, why should the productions in relation to that piece of clothing. Thus,
consumer choose the ukay? If sustainable fashion the “perceived” sustained profitability. Consequently,
is one consideration for purchase, would the ukay- the value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity
ukay be even considered? Given that these items are all contribute to the perceived qualities, values, and
all secondhand items, the question now arises as to expectations of sustainability.
whether ukay-ukay fashion is eco-friendly fashion. Related to social objectives, consumers become
emotionally invested in products that symbolize social
Sustainable Fashion Theory as a Framework superiority and responsibility (Wang et al., 2019).
The perceived personal identity that is an effect of
When Wang et al. (2019) developed a sustainable purchasing ethical brands could be another sign value.
fashion index model with the goal of measuring the Is profit the main objective of these fashion companies?
sustainability of companies in the fashion industry, they Or do they allocate their resources to other purposes?
used a sustainable fashion theory as the basis. First, Do they make charitable contributions, work on
there has to be a clear-cut definition of sustainability, corporate reputations, or hold employee trainings?
which is basically the balancing of various present and Though a company produces sustainable fashion,
future needs economically, socially, culturally, and it does not necessarily mean ethical fashion. Ethical
environmentally. The needs of tomorrow’s generation fashion is fashion with conscience that presupposes
should not be sacrificed for today’s generation. It is the process of “manufacturing, consumption, fashion
important to note that sustainability is not limited design and trading” are all “ethical” (Haug & Busch,
merely to environmental sustainability but rather 2016, p. 4). Incidentally, “ethical refers to the positive
includes economic, cultural, and social sustainability impact of (1) a designer, (2) a consumer choice or (3)
as well. For example, more than just the use of eco- a method of production as experienced by workers,
friendly garments that are renewable, economic and consumers, animals, society and the environment”
158 H.T. Biana

(Haug & Busch, 2016, p. 5). Ethical fashion also p. 286). As the adage goes, “aesthetics trump ethics”
deals with critical outlooks on gender and body (Joy et al., 2012, p. 286). If they can own the luxury
representations. On the contrary, the sustainable brand itself, despite being secondhand or pre-loved,
fashion index model focuses more on the fashion why own the luxury brand item through ukay-ukay?
company’s commitment to sustainability and making Some Filipinos buy from the ukay-ukay because it
sustainable choices available to the consumers rather is a way for them to be able to be stylish and up-to-
than the ethical choices made by the consumers date with fashion, and “own” signature items without
themselves. breaking the bank. Incidentally, one can even “pretend
With regard to environmental objectives, a fashion to have bought these items from designer houses”
company must adopt the eco-efficiency approach, (Locsin, 2007, p. 378). Accordingly, some people even
which seeks to cut the waste produced by the industry. make up stories that they have “a mother, an aunt, a
This means that recycling and the use of “green” sibling or a cousin living abroad, who chanced upon
materials are encouraged. Specifically, sustainable the goods in a bargain” (Locsin, 2007, p. 378).
fashion must “use recycled products/ packaging, reduce When someone patronizes the ukay-ukay stores and
waste, curb energy use, and use new technology product stalls, one cannot help but wonder whether ukay-ukay
designs in environmentally-friendly ways” (Wang et is sustainable fashion. Considering that the goods are
al., 2019, p. 2). Expanding on this, fashion companies acquired and not produced, how does its sustainability
must avoid harmful materials that could damage the fare with other business models? Technically, most
environment, thereby using natural, sustainable fabrics ukay-ukay clothes are recycled clothes (except for those
instead. One byword that can contain these objectives is items that still have tags). If these products were not
“eco-fashion”— “environmental, ecological . . . ethical, re-sold, they would go straight to waste. People make
organic, and inclusive (universal) fashion design” a profit through other people’s trash. Being recycled is
(Haug & Busch 2016, p. 5). Cultural objectives, supposedly a qualification for eco-fashion. However,
on the other hand, involve the protection of cultural is the ukay-ukay sustainable fashion according to the
and environmental ideas and the cultural diversity of sustainable fashion theory? If ukay-ukay fashion is
products (Wang et al., 2019) sustainable fashion, then why would one not prefer
The notion of “development” is usually related to to purchase such clothing? Also, how can one be
environmental annihilation and valued social attributes; encouraged to patronize the ukay-ukay?
therefore, the term sustainability is used rather than The sustainability fashion theory enumerates the
sustainable development. The sustainability of fashion following factors in terms of sustainability: economic,
depends on the improvement of costs and the alignment environment, social, culture, perceived quality of
of sustainable fashion alternatives (Mukherjee, 2013). sustainability, perceived value of sustainability,
A socially-responsible apparel and textile business has customer expectations of sustainability, customer
three conceptual scopes: “an orientation encompassing complaints, and value/brand/relationship equity (Wang
the environment . . . a philosophy that balances ethics/ et al., 2019). One cannot answer the questions above
morality with profitability, (and) a desire for outcomes unless it can be proven that ukay-ukay fashion is indeed
that positively affect . . . the world and its people” sustainable fashion.
(Dickson & Eckman 2006, p. 188).
Quality and Value
The Sustainability of Ukay-Ukay Fashion One of the main reasons people buy ukay-ukay
products is because one can get authentic designer
The sign value that comes with luxury brands is items at crazy low prices. A bag by Comme des Garcon
definitely higher than that of fast fashion brands. Those (CDG), for example, could cost up to $500 when
who cannot afford expensive items see luxury fashion bought in retail or online stores but can be bought for
as exclusive. Although beautiful and artistic, they can as low as Php25.00 in the ukay-ukay (Nitura, 2019).
only aspire for it and dream about it. With fast fashion, Product quality is questionable, given its secondhand
their dreams of luxury come alive. The fast fashion nature is dependent on the consistency of stocks. As
alternative that mimics luxury fashion is a pragmatic discussed earlier, items are boxed depending on their
way to achieve their dreams of luxury (Joy et al., 2012, quality (or newness), thus classified into either A, B,
The Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture as Sustainable Fashion 159

or C. It is imperative that strategies be employed by Incidentally, tourists have “stronger-than-average

traders given their “lack of control over stock quality, bargaining power” when they are “traveling with
fierce competition, changing tastes of consumers and companions and obtaining travel information from
shifting fashion trends” (Milgram, 2004). In terms of friends and mass media” (Zhang et al., 2018).
promotion, a poster with huge “sale” letters or “new Considering that ukay-ukay shopping is part and parcel
stocks” or “new arrival” would be the only indication of local and tourist attractions in cities such as Davao
of such in the stores. (Pavo, 2019) or the ukay capital of the Philippines,
When someone buys from the ukay-ukay, they do Baguio, most shoppers Google ukay-ukay tips to get
not use or wear the items immediately. It is common ahead on purchasing strategies and bargaining. There
knowledge that one should disinfect secondhand are even “shopping junkets” organized by more affluent
clothes before wearing them, either by soaking them Metro Manila shoppers (Milgram, 2004). Fashion
in boiling water and detergent soap or dry cleaning magazines such as Preview and Cosmopolitan PH, and
(with chemicals). Bags and shoes, on the other hand, Youtube fashion bloggers have features on ukay-ukay
are restored. With bag restoration shops sprouting all experts, hauls, and unique finds. Potential customers
over the country, ukay bags can indeed look good as use these as guides when they go on their hunt for
new. Quality is indicated by the repairs or restoration bargains.
needed for the products bought. Although the ukay Ukay customers may be considered the weird
business thrives, other businesses benefit from it bunch. As long as items are cheap or appear as unique
as well. These include dry cleaning and restoration but still-usable treasures, they purchase them. For
businesses. example, in Tagaytay’s Olivarez Plaza, people buy
Distribution is not only limited to the stalls or everything from baby clothes to sportswear to even
stores themselves. Sellers also utilize eBay.ph and “used” underwear! Unfortunately, a study by Valdez
pull out their merchandise from the physical stores et al. (2014) revealed that customers encounter certain
when bids on the site give better prices. Items have problems with shopping. There is “much effort needed
more detailed descriptions, including serial numbers in searching ukay-ukay goods” tops the chart. Other
and certifications of authenticity (Locsin, 2007). In the problems mentioned include damage and defect of
advent of other sites, such as Carousel and Shoppee, products, annoying odor, too much time consumed,
common folk who do not have their own stalls for and the limited space of the shopping area (Valdez et
their secondhand goods can sell what they refer to as al., 2014).
“pre-loved” items (which is a politically-correct way There are general attributes when it comes to
of terming “used” items). Customer satisfaction for clothing preferences of shoppers (be it in the ukay-ukay
these can be determined by the seller’s rating, response or the typical mall). They include quality condition,
rate, and other evaluation measures provided by the clothing brand, design and style of clothes, colors and
online selling sites. One question that can be asked is color combinations, clothing material, market price
if the sustainability of these products is discussed by of clothing, trendiness, packaging and arrangement,
the customers and sellers. ambiance of location, and location background (Abueg,
2005). When it comes to keeping clientele, customer
Customers and Relationships loyalty may be retained by ukay vendors, except when
Most ukay stores sell at flexible prices as opposed to prices are Php10-20.00 lower compared to other sellers
fixed prices; thus, customers can bargain or negotiate (FFE Life & Lifestyle Staff, 2014).
prices. According to Selcuk and Gokpinar (2018),
however, fixed and flexible pricing schemes are Reuse, Recycle, Refashion
dictated by customer preferences. For example, some In terms of environmental sustainability, which is
customers do not like to haggle; thus, the fixed price the core of the sustainable fashion theory, although
prevails, but when consumers enjoy bargaining, the most products being sold are reused considering
prices become flexible. Sometimes, flexible pricing their pre-loved nature, not all products are recycled.
comes at the very end when the customer buys clothes Recycling presupposes that the clothes are already
in bulk, and the seller decides to throw in a wholesale considered as waste. Ukay-ukay clothes are technically
discount. reused, meaning nothing else is done to them besides
160 H.T. Biana

cleaning and washing (except of course for those that ukay shops, garage sales, and other pre-loved sources,
need restoration and repair). In Europe, the recycling then revived or refashioned for reselling.
of clothes and textiles may take more toll on the
environment. For example, clothes have to be shredded Expression and Meaning
and downcycled, utilizing various mechanical, One reason patrons love the ukay-ukay is that items
chemical, and thermal processes (Filho et al., 2019). sold are original and unique; they complement the
The process of recycling clothes needs to be evaluated buyer’s style. Ukays encourage experimentation, and
for sustainability as well. Furthermore, certain textiles mix and matching of pieces that allows one to reinvent
cannot be reprocessed. Incidentally, a design strategy his or her style over and over again. Consequently, one
known as “Design for Cyclability” requires that can also upgrade, redesign, or upcycle ukays. Upcycling
garments be selected and clothes be designed with is a way to update secondhand finds while upholding
its potential for recycling (Filho et al., 2019). One one’s self-expression (Pascual, 2018). Besides the
other problem encountered by recycling is that there Denuo brand, other more creative entrepreneurs have
is “limited demand for recycled textiles…(because) also gone into the up-cycling business. Likha is a
many recycled textile wastes are unsuitable for multiple Cebu-based collection, created by one of the grand
recirculation and use” (Filho et al., 2019). In terms of champions of the Green Fashion Revolution design
packaging, ukays have no packaging when they arrive contest, composed of redesigned ukays made more
in the country, except their boxes. When sold, they are stylish and trendy (Gocotano, 2018).
put in plastic bags, which are not recyclable. The cultural sustainability of the ukay also lies
Although it is a given that ukays are not necessarily in its appeal to various diverse groups. Cordillera
recycled clothes, they are reused products without women, for example, make use of “local-to-global
the need to undergo various processes that may have practices of consumption and trade… in the contingent
harmful environmental effects. Obviously, most and compromised space between market demand
ukays are not designed with recycling potential in and the cultural intimacy and expectations of family,
mind, but they have lengthened clothing life cycles community, and customary practice” (Milgram, 2004,
because, rather than being a part of textile waste after p. 199). Redesigning and manipulating goods, either by
the first use, they become part of the retail trade after consumers or designers, is a way to express themselves
discardment. What happens to the secondhand piece and send messages. Mixing and matching pre-loved
of clothing when their owners want to throw them branded clothes from the West with local garments is
away? Interestingly, these items can actually be resold a way to demonstrate Filipinos’ “agency and ability
again for third lives. Famous ukay-ukay queen Shaira to expropriate, as well as to appropriate” (Milgram,
Luna has an actual closet sale wherein she resells her 2004, p.199).
ukay finds. Selling her pre-loved (raised to the power The ukay-ukay is also an excellent source of ideas
of two) clothes is a way to “recycle, reuse, and rotate and material for arts and crafts. In 2018, an “‘Ukay-
items when we can” (Sison, 2017, par. 2). ukay’ protest installation at ManilART 2018” (2018)
Besides reusing and recycling, refashioning is exhibit using ceramics “scavenged from ukay/thrift/
another way to manage waste in the clothing trade. garage sale/surplus stores” (par. 2).
Refashioning is “defined as remaking used clothes
into new ones,” and it “is gaining attention because Legality and Charity
it is a higher form of reusing which focuses on value Social sustainability dictates that businesses should
added recovery” (Sugiura, 2019, p. 1). In Kyoto, Japan, uphold their corporate reputation and make charitable
for example, kimonos were re-dyed in the 1920s to contributions. Although ukay-ukay businesses thrive
the 1960s to reuse and refashion clothing proactively in the country (assuming their stocks come from
(Sugiura, 2019). In the Philippines, Denuo, an online overseas), these are actually illegal by virtue of the
brand that was founded by Monica Vivar, upcycles Philippines’ Republic Act No. 4653, which prohibits
ukay-ukay items. Termed as “reclaimed clothing,” the the “commercial importation of textile articles
fashion collection is composed of garments about to commonly known as used clothing and rags” (Republic
be disposed and are “recirculated into the retail cycle” Act No. 4653 of 1966, par. 1). In 1966, this was enacted
(Sison, 2018). Denuo is sourced from various ukay- to “safeguard the health of the people and maintain the
The Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture as Sustainable Fashion 161

dignity of the nation” (Republic Act No. 4653 of 1966, the “clothing needs of the poor,” they also become
par. 1). Despite the justification, RA 4653 is criticized “desired and actively pursued across class and space”
as anti-consumer and anti-business as it hinders the (Milgram, 2004, p. 198).
start-up and maintenance of ukay-ukays, the creation
of jobs, and potential retail sector investments (Guilas, Perceived and Overall Sustainability
2017). People from different social classes buy from ukay-
In 2014, the Philippine congress proposed House ukay. The lower classes buy for affordability and the
Bill No. 4055 to repeal the aforementioned law and higher classes for condition and style (Valdez et al.,
legalize the importation of secondhand or used clothing 2014). The uniqueness of the products are expected and
and rags. There are three reasons as to why this bill what customers actually look for. When one searches
was pushed: 1) as garments enter the country illegally, for goods in the ukay, one expects to find both low and
potential taxes are lost; 2) ukay-ukay businesses high-quality goods in the mix. One also expects that
actually provide lucrative jobs to thousands of people; the items might have damages because they are indeed
and 3) the Philippines’ Department of Social Welfare secondhand garments. In terms of the long-lastingness
and Development (DSWD) actually requests for the of the goods, which may indicate its reusability,
“smuggled” used clothing to be donated to typhoon one perceives the signature brands as having more
victims when calamities strike. The bill also includes sustainable quality. Customers know what to expect
provisions for taxation of imported garments. The versus what to perceive when it comes to ukay-ukay
government can earn up to Php700 million ($14 shops. What differentiates the ukay from other retailers
million) in taxes annually with the repealment of RA of fast or slow fashion is single-minded brand equity.
4653 (Gavilan, 2017). In terms of relationship equity, loyalty and trust can
Unfortunately, the bill was not enacted into law. be built if salespeople are more stable. As most ukay-
People who buy from ukay-ukay are technically ukays do not necessarily have permits nor personnel
patronizing illegal businesses (assuming secondhand benefits, the repealment of RA 4653 promises a
clothes being sold are imported) as if they are more employee-driven business model. Although
purchasing smuggled goods. Furthermore, there is ukay sellers supposedly import secondhand clothing
also an ethical question in relation to the secondhand illegally, they have managed to tailor their businesses
clothing trade (Ladrido, 2018). Although influencers for their livelihood while personalizing constructions
and socialites (who are mostly from the middle of their local identities. By using streets as sites for
classes) celebrate their Php500 ukay loot, they are customer relations, Baguio City vendors “center
actually raising the values and prices of these items, previously marginalized practices to assert their place
making them unattainable to those who are actually in as legitimate actors in arenas of public power that have
need of cheaper alternatives. Furthermore, although largely excluded them from privileges” (Milgram,
shopping junkets were discussed earlier, the concept 2012 p. 201). Davao City vendors, particularly those
of slum tourism presupposes that the more affluent from the Roxas Night Market, at the same time, have
visit disadvantaged places for their novelty (Rolfes, considered their selling spaces as part of their journey
2010). In this case, ukay-ukay visits may sometimes towards fulfillment and well-being (Pavo, 2019). To
appear as “slumming” for wealthy tourists searching solve the legalities and ethical implications of the
for old, disposed Louis Vitton’s or Fendi’s in poorer business, certain organizations such as the Fashion
areas (Valdez et al., 2014). Revolution’s push for the revision of the law, studies
Similarly, the used clothes might have been on impact assessments, and the restriction/ zoning of
intended as donations/charitable contributions to actual ukay stores to monitor the influx and volume of
the less fortunate or calamity-stricken—but they are imports (Garcia, 2019).
being sold instead. In fact, “all beggars in the country
would have been clothed already—like fashion models Conclusion: Updating Perspectives
at that” (Ladrido, 2018, par.12) if people did not on Ukay-ukay Fashion
see the money that can be made from the business.
The inexpensiveness and functionality of the ukay Although the world is concerned with redesigning
commodities are two-pronged. Although they fulfill or refashioning fast fashion brands into becoming
162 H.T. Biana

sustainable, the Philippines has somewhat perfected the Although the fast and slow/luxury fashion
recycling and upcycling of throwaway or even luxury companies seek to combine sustainability and
fashion. Given the ukay-ukay lifestyle, some Filipinos addressing consumers’ desires simultaneously, their
have updated their own fashion senses through actions and decisions, though small steps or full
ownership of “name brands” or signature clothes. The transformations, impact highly on the fashion industry.
upside of that is that even fast fashion brands (such as One must not forget about other business models such
H&M or Zara) are sometimes considered as “luxury” as the ukay-ukay that contribute to the changes that
fashion clothes themselves in the ukay-ukay, thus benefit the environment. Although the search continues
turning into slow fashion in the process. Although a for more sustainable fashion, one must not limit oneself
person-on-the-street will never be able to afford an to traditional fashion business models and also consider
Oscar de la Renta, Gucci, or a Louis Vitton, the ukay- looking into the halukay culture.
ukay gives hope to the meager buyer and, at the same
time, gives second or third lives to these goods when Postscript: Ukay-ukay Sustainability
resold over and over again. During the Pandemic
The Philippines has a huge secondhand clothing
trade, and, for more than fifty years, secondhand In 2020, the novel coronavirus pandemic shocked
clothing has been part and parcel of the consumer the entire world and affected the fashion industries.
psyche. The halukay or ukay-ukay culture is a way to With lockdowns and quarantines in effect and social
meld quality and style while maintaining one’s unique distancing and sanitation measures as part of protocols,
fashion sense—and keeping in tune with sustainability potential shoppers, be it in ukay-ukay stalls or luxury
as well. The environmental cost of ukay-ukay fashion shops, may not be able to physically purchase clothes.
is low, but it plays out well in the cultural, economic, Some ukay-ukay stalls were also shut down in some
and social sustainability fashion theory. (At least for areas as such items are considered to be non-essential
some cultures!) goods. The fashion landscape has changed as well
The ukay-ukay profits through low prices and because there is no urgent need to be updated with
relative quality. The perceived value of the products fashion trends, considering that majority of the people
is attached to the “signatureness” of the commodities. have nowhere to go and are encouraged to work-from-
What may be lacking is the proper promotion of the home. A new question then arises as to whether the
pieces of clothing considering its heritage and history. ukay-ukay remains to be sustainable, according to the
New cultural productions, which include blogs, sustainable fashion theory, in times of a global health
magazine features, ukay challenges, and YouTube tips crisis.
and tutorials, contribute to the ukay-ukay’s sustained Economically, ukay-ukay online finds will still be
profitability. less expensive than luxury brands even during a virus
One question that may be asked is that if a fast outbreak. In the National Capital Region, although
and slow/luxury fashion company is not sustainable online shopping portals were suspended for a short
according to the sustainable fashion index, how then period of time, such were restored into business after
does this affect the sustainability of the ukay-ukay a few weeks. The same seller-buyer relationship
if a non-sustainable product is being sold there? If dynamics and flexible pricing schemes would dictate
the ukay-ukay item is not a Stella McCartney nor customer satisfaction. Again, assuming people would
an Eileen Fisher, then is the ukay-ukay sustainable be interested in purchasing non-essential items such as
at all? Suffice to say, the sustainability of the ukay- clothing or accessories during a pandemic, the same
ukay is dependent on the continuous revamping of customers would be loyal to their online ukay-ukay
fast and slow/luxury fashion companies towards vendors.
improving their own sustainabilities. Although One interesting ukay-ukay-influenced trend is
this paper aimed to investigate the dimensions and the online reselling of pre-loved items of Filipino
variables that constitute ukay-ukay fashion’s possible celebrities such as luxury bags, helmets, clothes,
sustainability, it concludes that it can actually be an and accessories to raise funds for COVID-19 efforts.
alternative model for sustainable fashion but with These goods are considered sustainably safe during
certain limitations. the pandemic as opposed to fresh illegal imports
The Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture as Sustainable Fashion 163

from neighboring countries. Considering that most FFE Life & Lifestyle Staff. (2014, January18 ). Ukay-ukay
businesses and various sectors are revamping their business: Is it still feasible? For Filipinos in Europe.
models to adjust to the health crisis, the ukay-ukay Retrieved from http://ffemagazine.com/ukay-ukay-
model should adapt as well by looking at ways to sell business-is-it-still-feasible/
Garcia, J. (2019, May 6). Can ukay-ukay save the
and acquire goods through alternative means such as
planet? Business World. Retrieved from https://www.
online portals, applications, or even bartering! bworldonline.com/can-ukay-ukay-save-the-planet/
Consequently, although the fashion companies Gavilan, J. (2017, August 24). Illegal? What you need to
are suffering from the effects of the pandemic on know about ukay-ukay. Rappler. Retrieved from https://
their sales, this could be a good time to reimagine www.rappler.com/newsbreak/iq/179876-fast-facts-ukay-
sustainability along with the changing consumer ukay-law-illegal
desires outbreak and post-outbreak. As the ukay-ukay Gocotano, R. (2018, May 15). “Ukay-ukay,” upcycled. The
is still highly dependent on existing fashion companies Freeman. Retrieved from https://www.philstar.com/
for their merchandise, the changes they employ in their the-freeman/cebu-lifestyle/2018/05/15/1815406/ukay-
business models would still have effects on the ukay- ukay-upcycled
Guilas, D. (2017, December 29). RA 4653 is anti-consumer
ukay’s sustainability, COVID-19 or not.
and anti-business. Congress should repeal it. The
Medium. Retrieved from https://medium.com/@
Acknowledgments daveguilas/ra-4653-is-anti-consumer-and-anti-business-
congress-should-repeal-it-54f84d08e483
The author would like to thank Luisito C. Abueg, Haug, A., & Busch, J. (2016). Towards an ethical fashion
Rosallia Domingo, and Jeremiah Joven B. Joaquin for framework. Fashion Theory, 20(3), 317–339.
their helpful comments; and the anonymous reviewers and Isla, V. L. (2013). Investigating second-hand fashion
this journal’s editors for their insightful suggestions and trade and consumption in the Philippines: Expanding
careful reading of the manuscript. The author would also existing discourses. Journal of Consumer Culture, 13(3),
like to thank Alyanna Joyce S. Abadejos, Isabela P. De 221–240.
Jesus, Eara Jamille M. Mabunga, Julia Daphne D. Ocampo, Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Jr., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan,
Shanel Jeanette B. Salcedo, and Alyssa Nicole V. Talabis for R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical
introducing her to the concept of fast fashion. appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3),
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