Goodys Manual
Goodys Manual
Goodys Manual
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
1. HOW TO MEASURE
Purpose: To insure the measurement accuracy of Goody's Family Clothing private label
products by establishing "How To Measure" guidelines.
Criteria
* All Goody's associates and all garment suppliers responsible for measuring garments must follow
the guidelines as described in this procedure.
* Any special instructions on the "Graded Specification Sheet" will always over-ride the standard
procedure.
a. For continuity, all measurements are to be taken on the wearer's left side of the garment.
b. All measurements are for finished garments, including after wash or garment dye if applicable.
A. Garment laid flat and free of tension on a smooth surface with wrinkles smoothed.
C-1
Goody's Family Clothing, Inc.
Product Development
STANDARD PRACTICE INFORMATION
"HOW TO MEASURE PROCEDURE"
TITLE: NOVELTY MEASUREMENT POINTS - BOTTOMS
STYLES: ALL DATE: 07/06/1999
VENDORS: ALL SUPERSEDES: NEW
THIS SECTION OF GOODY'S PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANUAL COVERS MEASUREMENT POINTS THAT ARE
NOT INCLUDED IN ANY OTHER 'HOW TO MEASURE' PROCEDURES. THESE POINTS ARE STYLE SPECIFIC AND
WILL BE ADDED TO THE BOTTOM OF THE GRADED SPECIFICATION AS NEEDED.
(A) Front Length Measure from high point of shoulder seam (HPS) straight down to bottom edge
of front panel.
* Collared Shirts: Collar must be raised to expose HPS.
(B) Chest Measure straight across chest (1" below armhole at sideseam).
(C) Bottom Sweep * Scoop Tail (as shown in diagram): Measure straight across body at the
bottom of the sideseams.
* Flat Tail (or) Banded: Measure straight across relaxed bottom opening from
sideseam to sideseam.
* Side Slits: Measure straight across at the top of slit opening.
(D) Across Chest Measure straight across chest, between sleeves, from seam to seam (includes
trim if applicable). Measurement to be taken as follows:
* Men, Young Mens, Missy, Missy Petite, Juniors, Girls 7-16, Girls Plus,
and Boys 8-20: 5" Below HPS
* Missy Plus, Missy Plus Petite, Junior Plus: 6" Below HPS
*Newborn, Infant, Toddler, Girls 4-6x and Boys 4-7: 3" Below HPS.
(E) Armhole Measure straight down from top of sleeve seam to underarm seam following
the curve. Front and back of garment are to be lined up. Measuring tape is to
be on its side.
* Raglan Sleeve: Measurement to be taken from underarm seam straight to top
of natural fold of shoulder.
* Sleeveless Tops / Vests: Measurement taken along outside edges of armhole
(with edges lined up).
(F) Shoulder Width Measure straight across from seam to seam (including trim - if applicable).
* Drop Shoulder: Measure straight across at natural fold of shoulder.
* Raglan Sleeve: Not applicable.
(G) Shoulder Slope Measure from imaginary line at high point shoulder (HPS) straight down to
armhole seam.
* Raglan Sleeve: Measure from imaginary line at high point shoulder (HPS) down
to natural shoulder fold which is directly above the underarm seam.
(H) Sleeve Length Measure along top of sleeve from armhole seam to end of sleeve (including cuff
and / or hem).
* Raglan Sleeve: Measure along top of sleeve from neckline (excluding any neck
trim) to end of sleeve (including cuff hem).
(I) Sleeve Muscle Measure 1" from underarm seam straight across sleeve forming a perpendicular
angle with the natural fold at the top of the sleeve.
(J) Sleeve Opening Measure straight across sleeve relaxed flat opening at the end of hem or cuff.
C-4
TITLE: TOPS (continued)
STYLES: ALL DATE: 05/18/2004
VENDORS: ALL SUPERSEDES: 07/24/2003
(K) Sleeve Hem Height * Cuffed (as shown in diagram): Measure from edge of cuff opening to seam.
* Rib Binding: Measure from edge of binding to seam.
* Hemmed: Measure from hem stitching to opening (use top row of stitching,
when applicable).
(L) Bottom Hem Height Measure from hem stitching to bottom edge (use top row of stitching - when
applicable).
* Banded: Measure from seam to bottom of band.
(M) Neck Opening * Trimmed (as shown in diagram): Measure straight across neck from seam
to seam (including trim).
* Flat (No trim): Measure across neck from inside edge to inside edge.
* Banded Collar: Measure from center of button to outside edge of buttonhole
with collar unbuttoned and laying flat. Measurement to be taken from the
inside of the collar.
* Collared (No Band): Measure half of folded collar. Measure along collar seam.
(N) Front Neck Drop Measure from imaginary line (across neck) from natural fold of high point
shoulder (HPS) down to center front (CF) neck seam (including trim).
* Collared / Banded Neck: Includes collar band if applicable.
* Flat (No trim): To the top edge of front neck, (includes garments with inside
facings).
* "V" Neck: To top of "V".
In some cases the front neck drop may be taken to the center of the 1st
button. This will be indicated on the specification sheet.
(O) Back Neck Drop Measure from imaginary line (across neck) from natural fold at high point of
shoulder (HPS) down to center back (CB) neck seam (including trim or neck tape).
* Collared / Banded Neck: Includes collar band if applicable.
* Flat (No trim): To top edge of back neck, (includes garments with inside facings).
(P) Across Back Measure straight across back, between sleeves, from seam to seam (includes
trim if applicable). Measurement to be taken as follows:
* Men, Young Mens, Missy, Missy Petite, Juniors, Girls 7-16, Girls Plus,
and Boys 8-20: 5" Below HPS
* Missy Plus, Missy Plus Petite, Junior Plus: 6" Below HPS
*Newborn, Infant, Toddler, Girls 4-6x and Boys 4-7: 3" Below HPS.
(R) Collar Point Measure the distance from point of collar to where it meets the seam. Does
not include neckband.
(S) Collar Stand Height Measure from top to bottom of band at center back (CB).
(T) Collar Point Spread Measure distance between two collar points with top button buttoned.
(U) Front Placket Dimensions * Height: Measure along center of placket (excluding collar stand or neck trim).
(HXW) * Width: From edge to edge.
(V) Half Moon Dimensions * Height: Distance from center back (CB) neck seam to bottom stitching of half
(HXW) moon.
* Width: Distance along top edge of half moon, measuring from stitching to
stitching.
(W) Pocket Dimensions * Height: Measure at center of pocket from top edge to longest point.
(HXW) * Width: Measure across top of pocket from edge to edge.
(X) Pocket Placement from Measure from high point shoulder (HPS) to top edge of pocket.
High Point Shoulder
(Y) Pocket Placement from Measure from center front (CF) to edge of pocket.
Center Front
(Z) Back Yoke Height Measure from center back (CB) neck seam straight to yoke edge.
(AA) Front Yoke Height Measure from high point shoulder (HPS) straight down to yoke seam. Can be
actual yoke or may be the front shoulder drop (as pictured).
(BB) Side Slits Measure from top of actual slit opening to bottom edge of front panel.
(CC) Sleeve Placket * Height: Measure center of placket from top of cuff seam (includes longest
Dimensions point if applicable).
* Width: Measure straight across placket midway between ends.
(DD) Sleeve Opening (Extended) Same as point "J". Measurement taken with opening extended until fabric
lies flat.
(EE) Bottom Sweep (Extended) Same as point "C". Measurement taken with opening extended until fabric
lies flat.
(A) Front Length Measure from high point of shoulder seam (HPS) straight down to bottom edge
of front panel.
(B) Chest Measure straight across chest (1" below armhole) from sideseam to sideseam.
(C) Bottom Sweep * Scoop Tail (as pictured on spaghetti tank): Measure straight across body at the
bottom of the sideseams.
* Flat Tail (or) Banded: Measure straight across relaxed bottom opening from
sideseam to sideseam.
* Side Slits (as pictured on basic tank): Measure straight across at the top of slit
opening.
(D) Across Chest Measure straight across chest, from outside edge to outside edge (includes
trim if applicable). Measurement to be taken as follows:
* Men, Young Mens, Missy, Missy Petite, Juniors, Girls 7-16, Girls Plus,
and Boys 8-20: 5" Below HPS
* Missy Plus, Missy Plus Petite, Junior Plus: 6" Below HPS
*Newborn, Infant, Toddler, Girls 4-6x and Boys 4-7: 3" Below HPS.
(E) Across Back Measure straight across back (following instructions in (D)).
(F) Armhole Measure from shoulder seam (following curve) to underarm seam. Measurement
is taken along outside edge of armhole with edges lined up. Measuring tape is to
be on its side.
(G) Shoulder Width Measure straight across from outside edge to outside edge (trim included - if
applicable).
(H) Shoulder Strap Width Measure straight across strap from outside edge to outside edge (trim included
if applicable).
(I) Sleeve Hem Height * Binding: Measure straight across binding from edge to edge.
* Facing / Hemmed: Measure straight from edge to outside row of stitching.
(J) Bottom Hem Height Measure from hem stitching to bottom opening. Use top row of stitching, when
applicable.
* Banded - Measure from seam to bottom of band.
(K) Neck Trim Height * Binding: Measure straight across binding from edge to edge.
* Facing / Hemmed: Measure straight from edge to outside row of stitching.
(L) Neck Opening Measure straight across neck from inside edge to inside edge. No trim is to be
included in the measurement.
(M) Front Neck Drop Measure (at center neck) from high point shoulder (HPS) straight to top edge of
front neck. No trim is to be included in measurement.
C-9
TITLE: BASIC TANK TOPS (continued)
STYLES: ALL DATE: 06/24/1999
VENDORS: ALL SUPERSEDES: NEW
(N) Back Neck Drop Measure at center neck from high point shoulder (HPS) straight to top edge of
back neck. No trim is to be included in measurement.
(O)Front Placket Dimensions * Height: Measure along center of placket (excluding collar stand or neck trim).
(Height x Width) * Width: Measure from edge to edge.
(P) Side Slit Measure from top of slit opening to bottom edge of front panel.
(Q) Bottom Opening (Extended) Same as point "C". Measurement taken with opening extended until the fabric
lies flat.
(R) Pocket Dimensions (HXW) * Height: Measure at center of pocket from top edge down to longest point.
* Width: Measure at top of pocket from edge to edge.
(S) Pocket Placement From Measure from high point shoulder (HPS) to top edge of pocket.
High Point Shoulder
(T) Pocket Placement From Measure from center front (CF) to edge of pocket.
Center Front
(A) Center Front Length Measure (at center front) from top edge straight down to bottom edge of front
panel.
(D) Across Chest Measure straight across front from outside edge to outside edge. Trim, if
1" Below High Point Neck applicable, is to be included in measurement.
(F) Underarm Seam Measure from imaginary line at High Point Neck to underarm seam (following
the curve). Measurement is to be taken along outside edge with front and back
edges lined up. Measuring tape is to be on its side.
(G) Strap Height Measure from imaginary line at High Point Neck to top edge of strap (following
the curve). Measurement is to be taken along outside edge with front and back
edges lined up. Measuring tape is to be on its side.
(L) Across Body (At Underarm- Measure straight across body from edge to edge at top edge of underarm seam.
seam) Trim, if applicable, is to be included in measurement.
(M) Distance Between Straps- Measure from inside edges of front shoulder straps.
(Front)
(N) Distance Between Straps- Measure from inside edges of back shoulder straps.
(Back)
(R) Center Back Length Measure at center back from top edge straight down to bottom edge of back
panel.
(A) Waist (Relaxed) Measure straight along top edge of waistband. The front and back are to be
lined up.
(B) Waistband Height * Constructed Pant (as shown in the diagram): Measure from top edge to
bottom edge of waistband (not stitching).
* Elastic waist: Measure from top edge to bottom edge of waist elastic (not
stitching).
(C) Hip (Extended) Measure from top edge of waistband down, along right sideseam,
center front, and along left sideseam
(A) Adult: 7" + Waistband Height (Example: Waistband height 1 1/2",
measure hip 8 1/2" from top edge of waistband.)
(B) Girls 4-6x, Boys 4-7, Girls 7-16, and Boys 8-20:
6" + Waistband Height (Example: Waistband height 1",
measure hip 7" from top edge of waistband.)
(C) Toddler and below: 3" + Waistband Height (Example:
Waistband height 3/4", measure hip 3 3/4" from top edge of waistband)
Measurement is the distance of these 3 points (with fabric flat / pleats opened).
(D) Front Rise * Serged seams: Measure on front of garment from top edge of waistband to
crotch point (with seam straightened).
* Felled seams: Measure between two rows of stitching.
(E) Back Rise * Serged seams: Measure on back of garment from top edge of waistband to
crotch point (with seam straightened).
* Felled seams: Measure between two rows of stitching.
(F) Inseam * Serged seams: Measure from center of crotch seam to bottom of leg opening.
* Felled seams: Measure between the two rows of stitching from crotch point
to bottom of leg opening.
(G) Thigh Width Measure from crotch point or natural fold of leg (whichever is applicable)
straight across to sideseam.
(H) Knee Width Measure straight across leg halfway between leg opening and crotch point.
* On specs with more than one inseam length, there will be only one knee width
given. The inseam for which this measurement applies will be specified..
(I) Leg Opening (Relaxed) Measure straight across bottom opening from inseam to sideseam.
(J) Cuff / Hem Height * Cuffed: Measure from top edge to bottom edge of cuff.
* Hemmed: Measure from stitching to bottom edge of leg opening (use top row
of stitching when applicable).
(K) Front Pocket Placement * Side Slit Pocket: Measure from bottom of waistband (along sideseam) to top
(From bottom of waistband) of pocket opening.
* Scoop / Western Pocket: Measure from bottom of waistband (along sideseam)
to pocket edge.
Originated By: Date: 9/8/00 Q.A.: P. Wilson Date: 07/24/2003
C-14
TITLE: Bottoms (continued)
STYLES: ALL DATE: 07/07/1999
VENDORS: ALL SUPERSEDES: 08/18/1997
(L) Front Pocket Opening * Side Slit Pocket: Measure along sideseam from top of opening to bottom of
opening.
* Scoop/Western Pocket: Measure underneath waistband from sideseam to
pocket edge.
(M) Front Pocket Bag * Height: With garment turned inside out , measure from bottom of waistband
Dimensions straight down to longest point.
* Width: Measure straight across pocket at widest point.
* Welted Pocket:
Measurement taken with garment turned inside out.
Height: Measure from top of bartack stitch straight down to bottom edge.
Width: Measure from side to side along the bottom of pocket bag.
(O) Pocket Welt Dimensions * Height: Measure from top edge to bottom edge of welt.
* Width: Measure across welt from edge to edge.
(P) Back Pocket Placement Measure from outside edge nearest sideseam straight up to bottom of
(From bottom of waistband) waistband.
(Q) Pocket Placement Measure from welt or patch pocket edge to center back (CB).
(From center back)
(R) Fly Dimensions * Height: Measure along edge of opening from bottom of waistband down to "J"
stitch. Use last or bottom row of stitching when applicable.
* Width: Measure (at center of fly) from opening edge to stitching. Use outside
row of stitching when applicable.
(S) & (T) Pleat Placement Measure straight across from center front (CF) to pleat (at bottom of waistband).
NOTE: First pleat is always the one closest to the center front.
(U) & (V) Dart Placement Measurement should always be taken with elastic (when applicable) extended.
Measure straight across from center back (CB) or center front (CF) to dart (at
bottom of waistband).
NOTE: First dart is always the one closest to the center back or center front.
(Y) Waist (Extended) Same as measurement (A) with waistband extended until fabric lies flat.
(Z) Leg Opening (Extended) Same as measurement (I) with opening extended until fabric lies flat.
(AA) Hip (Relaxed) Same as measurement (C) with fabric relaxed and pleats closed.
(A) Waist (Relaxed) Measure straight along top edge of waistband. The front and back are to be
lined up.
(B) Waistband Height * Constructed Skirt (as shown in the diagram): Measure from top edge to
bottom edge of waistband (not stitching).
* Elastic Waist: Measure from top edge to bottom edge of waist elastic (not
stitching).
(C) Hip (Extended) Measure from top edge of waistband down, along right sideseam,
center front, and along left sideseam
(A) Adult: 7" + Waistband Height (Example: Waistband height 1 1/2",
measure hip 8 1/2" from top edge of waistband.)
(B) Girls 4-6x, Boys 4-7, Girls 7-16, and Boys 8-20:
6" + Waistband Height (Example: Waistband height 1",
measure hip 7" from top edge of waistband.)
(C) Toddler and below: 3" + Waistband Height (Example:
Waistband height 3/4", measure hip 3 3/4" from top edge of waistband)
Measurement is the distance of these 3 points (with fabric flat and pleats /
gathers opened).
(D) Hem Height Measure from stitching to bottom edge of sweep. Use top row of stitching
when applicable.
(E) Front Pocket Placement * Side Slit Pocket: Measure from bottom of waistband along sideseam to top
(From bottom of waistband) of pocket opening.
* Scoop / Western Pocket: Measure from bottom of waistband along sideseam
to pocket edge.
(F) Front Pocket Opening * Side Slit Pocket: Measure along sideseam from top of opening to bottom of
opening.
* Scoop / Western Pocket: Measure underneath waistband from sideseam to
pocket edge.
(G) Front Pocket Bag Height:With garment turned inside out, measure from bottom of waistband
Dimensions straight down to longest point.
Width: Measure straight across pocket at widest point.
(I) Pocket Welt Dimensions Height: Measure from top edge to bottom edge of welt.
Width: Measure across welt from edge to edge.
(J) Back Pocket Placement Measure from outside edge nearest sideseam straight up to bottom of
(From bottom of waistband) waistband.
(K) Back Pocket Placement Measure from welt or patch pocket edge to center back (CB).
(From center back)
(L) Fly Dimensions Height: Measure along edge of opening from bottom of waistband down to "J"
stitch.
Width: Measure (at center of fly) from opening edge to stitching. Use outside
row of stitching when applicable.
(M) & (N) Pleat Placement Measure straight across from center front (CF) to pleat (at bottom of waistband).
NOTE: First pleat is always the one closest to the center front.
(O) & (P) Dart Placement Measurement should always be taken with elastic (when applicable) extended.
Measure straight across from center back (CB) or center front (CF) to dart (at
bottom of waistband).
NOTE: First dart is always the one closest to the center back or center
front.
(S) Waist (Extended) Same as measurement (A) with waistband extended until fabric lies flat.
(T) Hip (Relaxed) Same as measurement (C) with fabric relaxed and pleats / gathers closed.
(U) Bottom Sweep Measure straight across relaxed bottom opening from sideseam to sideseam.
(V) Front Length Measure straight down center front (CF) from top edge of waistband to bottom
edge of sweep.
(W) Slit Length Measure from top of actual slit opening to bottom of hemmed edge.
(A) Vertical Trunk Measure from high point of shoulder seam (HPS) diagonally to bottom edge of
crotch (at center) on all body styles.
Measurement should always be taken to bottom edge or natural fold of crotch
when applicable. Refer to illustrations for both bodies.
* Collared Bodies: Collar must be raised to expose high point of shoulder (HPS).
(B) Chest Measure straight across chest (1" below armhole at sideseam).
(D) Armhole Measure straight down from top of sleeve seam to underarm seam following
the curve. Front and back of garment are to be lined up. Measuring tape is to be
on its side.
* Raglan Sleeve: Measurement to be taken from underarm seam straight to top
of natural fold of shoulder.
* Sleeveless / Straps: Measurement taken along outside edges of armhole (with
edges lined up).
(E) Sleeve Opening Measure straight across relaxed flat opening at the end of hem or cuff.
* Ruffled Sleeve: Measurement taken at elastic.
(F) Sleeve Length Measure along top of sleeve from armhole seam to end of sleeve (including cuff
/ hem).
* Raglan Sleeve: Measure along top of sleeve from neckline (excluding any
neck trim) to end of sleeve (including cuff / hem).
(G)Sleeve Hem Height * Cuffed (as shown in diagram): Measure from edge of cuff opening to seam.
* Rib Binding: Measure from edge of binding to seam.
* Hemmed: Measure from hem stitching to opening (use top row of stitching
when applicable).
(H) Bottom Hem Height * Cuffed (as shown in diagram): Measure from edge of cuff opening to seam.
* Hemmed: Measure from hem stitching to bottom edge of leg opening (use top
row of stitching when applicable).
(I) Neck Opening * Trimmed (as shown in diagram): Measure straight across neck from seam to
seam (including trim).
* Flat (No trim): Measure across neck from inside edge to inside edge.
* Banded Collar: Measure from center of button to outside edge of buttonhole
with collar unbuttoned and laying flat. Measurement to be taken from inside
of the collar.
* Collared (No Band): Measure half of folded collar. Measure along collar seam .
C-20
TITLE: ONE PIECE BODY (continued)
STYLES: ALL DATE: 12/27/1999
VENDORS: ALL SUPERSEDES: 07/13/1999
(J) Front Neck Drop Measure from imaginary line (across neck) from natural fold of high point
shoulder (HPS) down to center front (CF) neck seam (including trim).
* Collared / Banded Neck: Includes collar band if applicable.
* Flat (No Trim): To top edge of front neck, (includes garments with inside facings).
* "V" Neck: To top of "V".
In some cases the front neck drop may be taken to the center of the 1st
button. This will be indicated on the specification sheet.
(K) Back Neck Drop Measure from imaginary line (across neck) from natural fold at high point of
shoulder (HPS) down to center back (CB) neck seam (including trim or neck
tape).
* Collared / Banded Neck: Includes collar band if applicable.
*Flat (No Trim): To top edge of back neck, (includes garments with inside facings).
(L) Hip (Extended) Measure straight across body 4" above crotch bottom edge or natural fold of
4" Above Crotch crotch (whichever is applicable). Fabric must be flat with pleats or gathers
opened.
(M) Inseam With garment folded in half to determine the cente r, measure from center of
crotch or center of natural fold at crotch straight to bottom edge of leg opening.
* Playwear / sleepwear (with attached booties): Measure to seam where bootie
attches to inseam.
(N) Crotch Width Measure straight across crotch from outside edge of 1st snap to outside edge
of last snap.
(O) Leg Opening (Relaxed) Measure straight across leg at bottom of opening with fabric flattened and
smoothed.
* Ruffled Leg Opening: Measurement is taken from ends of elastic.
(P) Leg Opening (Extended) Same as measurement (O) with opening extended until fabric lies flat.
(Q) Sleeve Opening (Extended) Same as measurement (E) with opening extended until fabric lies flat.
(R) Placket Dimensions * Height: Measure along center of placket (excluding neck trim) to bottom of
stitching.
* Width: Measure from edge to edge.
(S) Across Crotch Bottom Measure along bottom edge of crotch (at natural fold) from outside edge to
outside edge (including any trim).
The following accessories will be style specific and will be added to the Graded Specification
Sheet as needed. Please refer to the How To Measure Illustrations for each.
(A) Waist (Relaxed) Measure straight along top edge (or) stitching (whichever is applicable) of waist-
band. The front and back are to be lined up.
(B) Waistband Height Measure from top edge to bottom edge of the waistband.
(C) Hip (Extended) Step (1) : Measure from bottom of waistband down, along right sideseam.
(A) Adult: 7" down
(B) Girls 4-6x, Boys 4-7, Girls 7-16, and Boys 8-20: 6" down
(C) Toddler and below: 3" down
Step (2) : Same as above on left sideseam.
Step (3) : Measure from bottom of the waistband down, at center front.
(A) Adult: 7" down
(B) Girls 4-6x, Boys 4-7, Girls 7-16, and Boys 8-20: 6" down
(C) Toddler and below: 3" down
Measurement is the distance of these 3 points (with fabric flat / pleats opened).
(D) Inseam * Serged seams: Measure from center of crotch seam to bottom of leg opening.
* Felled seams: Measure between the two rows of stitching from crotch point
to bottom of leg opening.
(E) Front Rise * Serged seams: Measure on front of garment from bottom of waistband to
crotch point (with seam straightened).
* Felled seams: Measure between two rows of stitching.
(F) Back Rise * Serged seams: Measure on back of garment from crotch point to the point
at the bottom of where the straps intersect.
* Felled seams: Measure between the two rows of stitching from the crotch
point to the point at the bottom of where the straps intersect.
(G) Thigh Width Measure from crotch point (or) natural fold of leg (whichever is applicable)
straight across to sideseam.
(H) Knee Width Measure straight across leg halfway between leg opening and crotch point.
(I) Leg Opening (Relaxed) Measure straight across bottom opening from inseam to sideseam.
(J) Cuff / Hem Height * Cuffed: Measure from top edge to bottom edge of cuff.
* Hemmed: Measure from stitching to bottom edge of leg opening (use top row
of stitching when applicable).
(K) Bib Pocket Dimensions * Height: Measure at the center of pocket from top edge to bottom edge.
(HXW) * Width: Measure across top of pocket edge (from side to side).
(L) Bib Pocket Placement Measure from the top edge of the bib to the top of the bib pocket.
(From top of bib)
C-25
TITLE: OVERALLS / SHORTALLS (continued)
STYLES: ALL DATE: 09/24/1999
VENDORS: ALL SUPERSEDES: 12/23/1997
(M) Back Patch Pocket * Height: Measure at the center of pocket from top edge to bottom edge.
Dimensions (HXW) * Width: Measure across top of pocket edge (from side to side).
(N) Back Pocket Placement Measure from top edge of pocket, at the center of the opening, to the bottom
(From bottom of armhole ) of the armhole.
(O) Back Pocket Placement Measure from welt or patch pocket edge to center back (CB).
(From center back)
(P) Fly Dimensions * Height: Measure along edge of opening from bottom of waistband down to "J"
(HXW) stitch. Use last or bottom row of stitching when applicable.
* Width: Measure (at center of fly) from opening edge to stitching. Use outside
row of stitching when applicable.
(Q) Strap Height Measure along the inside edge of the bottom of the strap (with straps fully
(Inside edge) extended) to the top of the strap. Measuring tape is to be on its side.
(R) Strap Height Measure along the outside edge of the bottom of the strap (with straps fully
(Outside edge) extended) to the top of the strap. Measuring tape is to be on its side.
(S) Strap Width Measure straight across the top end of the strap.
(T) Front Bib Height Measure at the center of the bib from the top edge of the waistband or top row
of stitches to the top edge of the bib.
(U) Front Bib Width Measure across the top edge of the bib.
(V) Front Pocket Opening * Side Slit Pocket: Measure along sideseam from top of opening to bottom of
opening.
* Scoop/Western Pocket: Measure underneath waistband from sideseam to
pocket edge.
(W) Front Pocket Placement * Side Slit Pocket: Measure from bottom of waistband (along sideseam) to top
(From bottom of waistband) of pocket opening.
* Scoop / Western Pocket: Measure from bottom of waistband (along sideseam)
to pocket edge.
(X) Across Back Measure across the widest point of the overlay cross panel.
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 09/27/2000
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
a. GRADE RULES
Goody's Grade Rules will vary by product category. All Cost Specifications will be issued on a Grading
Template showing the Standard Grades for that particular product.
b. MEASUREMENT TOLERANCES
Any sample that measures within these tolerances will be accepted (for sizing purposes), unless the
appearance is affected.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Back pocket placement from waistband is 3 1/2", the tolerance is 1/4". If the right side of the pocket is
3 1/4" from the waistband and the left side of the pocket is 3 3/4" from the waistband, the product is not
acceptable. Even though both sides of the pocket are within the tolerances, the pocket is crooked and
the appearance of the product has been affected.
C-28
GOODY'S FAMILY CLOTHING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 09/26/2000
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
(1) Lockstitch:
(a) Stitch Specifications
S/N Lockstitch (301) 8-9 SPI (unless otherwise specified)
2/N Lockstitch (301) 8-9 SPI (unless otherwise specified)
S/N Zig Zag (304) 10-11 SPI (unless otherwise specified)
(b) Workmanship Specifications
Pleats / Puckers None Allowed
Open Seam / Raw Edges None Allowed
Skipped Stitches / Broken Stitches None Allowed
Stitch Run-off None Allowed
Loose / Tight Stitches Pass if performance or appearance is not affected. Seam
should be extended to determine if the stitches will break.
Crooked Seam Pass if performance or appearance is not affected.
Repairs Seams to be opened, cleaned of all threads and resewn.
(Exception: Seams longer than 6" can be patched unless
the performance or appearance will be affected. Repairs
must be sewn stitch on stitch for 1/2". Beginning & ending
sews must be backtacked. No patching on seams less than
6". Only 1 patch per operation is allowed.)
C-29
GOODY'S FAMILY CLOTHING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 09/27/2000
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
Partial Bite Pass one (1) per seam if securely caught and not more
than 1/2" long - unless performance is affected.
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 09/27/2000
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
(4) Coverstitch
(5) Chainstitch
S/N Chainstitch (or) 2/N Chainstitch (401) 9-10 SPI (unless otherwise specified)
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 09/27/2000
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
4. THREADS
Many of the defects that cause a shipment to fail an audit are thread related.
Seam integrity and appearance can have a tremendous impact on the disposition of an audit.
Incorrect thread application is very costly to the manufacturer and will result in a degraded finished product.
The following information and recommendations are meant to assist Goody's vendors in providing us with quality
products.
a. Thread size
Thread ticketing can be very confusing. Due to this confusion, the Thread Institute has developed
"Tex Range System" ("TEX").
*"TEX" is equal to the gram weight of 1,000 meters of greige yarn or raw fabric.
All major thread manufacturers are labeling their threads according to this system.
The ticket number is an indicator of the amount of raw fiber present in the thread. It is based on
greige thread rather than finished thread. Finishing processes (bleaching, mercerizing, stretching,
dying) can change the thread size.
The smaller the number, the finer the thread (lesser amount of fiber), and the larger the number, the courser
the thread (larger amount of fiber).
b. Thread Testing
All thread manufacturers should provide the vendor with the test results of their thread. Threads
should be tested for and must pass most of the same physical property tests as fabric (elasticity,
tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage etc.)
Colorfastness tests results should also be required by the vendor.
For further assistance you may visit A & E's web site at www.amefird.com.
C-33
GOODY'S FAMILY CLOTHING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 10/03/2000
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
The threads recommended below are the most common thread types and sizes used by manufacturers. #1
Selection should be used where there are special requirements, such as: a) sewing on automated multi-directional
machines; b) for sewing particularly hard to handle fabrics; and c) where quality seaming is a must. #2 Selection
should be used where the sewing requirements are not as difficult and cost is the major consideration.
WOVEN:
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 10/03/2000
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
KNITS:
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 01/09/2001
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
5. DEFECTS CLASSIFICATIONS
The following is Goody's interpretation of Critical, Major, and Minor defects. This information is to be used in conjunction
with the defect classification of the Vendor or Agent.
a. Critical defect
1. A defect that prevents a product from meeting Federal or Legal requirements.
2. A defect that can cause harm to the Consumer.
b. Major defect
1. A defect that causes a product to be non-saleable.
2. A defect that causes the product to be returned to the store by a dissatisfied customer.
c. Minor defect
1. A defect that does not significantly affect the appearance or performance of a product,
but, by occurring consistently within a shipment, can degrade the value of the shipment.
No vendor should send to Goody's any product with any of the above defects.
If a garment can be upgraded, repairs should be made. If a garment cannot be upgraded, it should
be pulled from the shipment and held in the factory.
C-42
GOODY'S FAMILY CLOTHING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DATE: 01/09/2001
SUPERSEDES: ORIGINAL
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/01
SUPERCEDES: NEW
1. PRICE TICKETS
a. Tops / Dresses / Jumpers / Newborn, Infant & Toddler 1 Piece Body and 2 Piece Sets (2 piece Sets also
includes Sleepwear)
EXCEPTION: IF FOLDING METHOD "TRRGT" IS SPECIFIED ON THE "IMPORT ORDER FORM" , THE PRICE TICKET
(IF APPLICABLE) WILL BE ON THE WEARER'S RIGHT SIDE
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/01
SUPERCEDES: NEW
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 04/27/2001
SUPERCEDES: 03/15/2001
2. HANGTAGS
If a Hangtag is to be used on a product, the Hangtag Code will be specified on the "Import Order Form".
When attaching the Hangtag, be very cautious to not damage the fabric. Always attach directly into the
seam.
a. Tops / Dresses / Jumpers / Newborn, Infant, & Toddler 1 Piece Body and 2 Piece Sets (2 Piece
Sets also includes sleepwear).
Hangtag w/o string - Using a 3" barb, the Hangtag is to be swift tacked through the wearer's
left sideseam (1" below the underarm seam).
Hangtag w/string -
Mens // Boys:
Boys Buttonfronts (including polos) - String is to be attached to the 2nd button.
Womens / Girls: Buttonfronts, All Non - Buttonfronts (including polos) - Using a small gold pin, the
string should be pinned in th wearer's left sideseam (1" below the underarm seam).
The
string
pin should be inserted into the knotted end of the string.
Hangtag w/o string - Using a 3" barb, the Hangtag is to be swift tacked through the wearer's
left sideseam at bottom edge of waistband.
If garment does not have a waistband, attach Hangtag as close to top
edge as possible.
Hangtag w/string - Using a small gold pin, the string should be pinned in the wearer's left
sideseam.
The pin should be inserted into the knotted end of the string.
EXCEPTION: IF FOLDING METHOD "TRRGT" IS SPECIFIED ON THE "IMPORT ORDER FORM", THE
HANGTAG WILL BE ON THE WEARER'S RIGHT SIDE.
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
c. Overalls / Shortalls
Hangtag - Using a 3" barb, the Hangtag is to be swift tacked to the wearer's left side, back
panel, 1/2" from top edge.
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
3. FOLDING
a. Folding Codes
CODE FOLD
BF000 Basic Fold
BFSUP Basic Fold w / Full Stand-Up Pack
BFFCP Basic Fold w / Flat Collar Pack
FFOOO Fashion Fold
FFSUP Fashion Fold w / Full Stand-Up Pack
FFFCP Fashion Fold w / Flat Collar Pack
CBFOO Children's Basic Fold
SFLGT Sweater Fold (7 gauge or higher)
SFHVY Sweater Fold (5 gauge or lower)
HFOOO Half Fold
TRLFT Tri-Fold w/ Identification on Wearer's Left Back
TRRGT Tri-Fold w/ Identification on Wearer's Right Back
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
WOVEN KNIT
WOVEN KNIT
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
WOVEN KNIT
WOVEN KNIT
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
WOVEN KNIT
WOVEN KNIT
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
*Body folded in half *Folded in half w/ top edge *Folded in half w/ top
*Sleeves folded to the of neck even w/ bottom edge of straps even
inside hem w/ bottom hemmed
edge
HOODED
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
If this fold is specified on the "Import Order Form", the price ticket (If applicable) is to be placed in the
wearer's left sideseam. The pocket flasher (If applicable) and joker tag (If applicable) are to be placed
on the wearer's left back.
(A) Pants
(1) Lay flat w/ wearer's right side up.
The price tag, pocket flasher, and
joker tag (If applicable) will be on
the bottom
Note: For inseams less than 30" or graeter than 36", adjustments can be made. The finished fold
cannot exceed 14"
TAGGING / FOLDING
DATE: 03/15/2001
SUPERCEDES: NEW
If this fold is specified on the "Import Order Form", the price ticket (If applicable) is to be placed in the
wearer's right sideseam. The pocket flasher (If applicable) and joker tag (If applicable) are to be placed
on the wearer's right back.
(A) Pants
(1) Lay flat, front side up. Fold wearer's
left side over. The price tag, pocket
flasher, and joker tag (If applicable)
will be on the bottom.
Note: For inseams less than 30" or graeter than 36", adjustments can be made. The finished fold
cannot exceed 14"
Maximum Finished Fold Depth
One (1) piece of Tissue is to be placed inside folded garment
PACKING / SHIPPING
DATE: 06/05/03
SUPERCEDES: 02/28/03
4. CARTON SPECIFICATIONS
a. CARTON MARKINGS
FRONT MARKINGS
EXAMPLE:
DESTINATION:
DEPARTMENT #:
P.O. #:
STYLE #:
PIECES PER MASTER CARTON:
CARTON #:
CASE PACK #: DESTINATION: KNOXVILLE TN
MADE IN: DEPARTMENT #: 125
P.O. #: 32860
STYLE #: AB1022SST
PIECES PER MASTER CARTON: 24
CARTON #: 1 OF 50
CASE PACK: # C0001
MADE IN: INDIA
SIDE MARKINGS
STYLE:
COLOR / PATTERN:
QUANTITY / SIZE:
NET WEIGHT:
GROSS WEIGHT:
CARTON DIMENSIONS:
EXAMPLE:
STYLE: AB1022ST
COLOR / PATTERN: 1B
QUANTITY / SIZE: S/3 M/9 L/9 XL/3
NET WEIGHT: 9 KGS.
GROSS WEIGHT: 10.5 KGS.
CARTON DIMENSIONS: 56 X 35 X 31 CM.
PACKING / SHIPPING
DATE: 06/05/03
SUPERCEDES: 02/28/03
CARTON DIMENSIONS:
MINIMUM: L12" X W8" X H4"
MAXIMUM: L36" X W24" X H30"
CARTON WEIGHTS:
MINIMUM: 3 LBS.
MAXIMUM: 50 LBS.
Use cartons as close to the maximum size/weight as possible without causing the product to wrinkle and
without exceeding the maximum requirements.
All cartons must be marked with the corresponding case pack # from the Import Order Form.
The Import Order Form will specify which of the following packing methods should be used for each case pack:
Solid Color / Solid Size
Assorted Color / Solid Size
Solid Color / Assorted Size
Assorted Color / Assorted Size
Bottoms
pants 24 - 36 24 - 36 24 - 36
skirts (knit) 24 - 48 -------- --------
skirts (twill/denim) 24 - 36 -------- --------
shorts (twill/denim) 24 - 48 24 - 48 24 - 48
shorts (knit/nylon) 24 - 48 24 - 48 24 - 48
capris (twill/denim) 24 - 36 24 - 36 24 - 36
capris (poplin/light weight) 24 - 48 24 - 48 24 - 48