AJHS

Asian Journal of Home Science

Volume 12 | Issue 1 | June, 2017 | 193-200
DOI: 10.15740/HAS/AJHS/12.1/193-200
e ISSN-0976-8351 Visit us: www.researchjournal.co.in
Research Paper

Ikat sarees of Odisha

MITALI DALAI AND SADHANA D. KULLOLI
Received: 07.11.2016; Revised: 23.04.2017; Accepted: 10.05.2017

ABSTRACT : To document the different types of Sarees, motifs and their placement a self-
structured interview schedule was used to elicit the information on the types of silk and cotton
Sarees manufactured and motifs used in the popular Ikat sarees of Odisha. The most popular
Sarees woven are Sambalpuri, Sakatapar, Passapali, Bapta and Bomkai both in cotton and
See end of the paper for authors’ affiliations silk with 5.5 meters length and 1.2 meters width using 2/100s-2/120s cotton yarn and 20-22 denier
SADHANA D. KULLOLI silk yarn. The variegated sarees are beautified with floral pattern, geometrical pattern, small
Department of Textile and Apparel flower Buttis, human figure, Shankha, Chakra, animal and bird depictions.
Designing, College of Rural Home
Science, University of Agricultural KEY WORDS: Ikat sarees, Motifs, Cotton, Silk, Denier silk yarn
Sciences, DHARWAD (KARNATAKA)
INDIA
HOW TO CITE THIS PAPER : Dalai, Mitali and Kulloli, Sadhana D. (2017). Ikat sarees of Odisha.
Email : sadhanadk@gmail.com
Asian J. Home Sci., 12 (1) : 193-200, DOI: 10.15740/HAS/AJHS/12.1/193-200.

T
he Saree is a traditional female garment in the rhythmic picking sound of fly shuttle in most of the rural
Indian subcontinent consisting of a strip of huts indicates the importance of the handloom industry
unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine meters and its role in the economy of Odisha. The picking sound
in length that is draped over the body in various styles. It is waved from more than 1,20,000 handlooms and this
is the basic wear of rural people of India. The Indian sound provides livelihood to more than 5 lakhs of weavers
‘saree’ has been in existence for more than 5000 years directly and more than this indirectly in cultivation and
which is mentioned in the Vedas. ginning of cotton and marketing of handloom products
Few of the historically famous hand woven sarees (Mohapatra, 2008).
of India are Baluchar saree of Varanasi, Bandanis of “Khandua” of Cuttack, “Habaspur” and
Kutch, Brocades of Banaras, Chanderi sarees of “Bomkai” of Kalahandi, “Kotpad” of Koraput, “Parda”
Madhya Pradesh, Georgettes of Mysore (Karnataka), of Khurda, “Kusumi” of Nayagarh, “Saktapar” and
Ikat sarees of Odisha, Jamdhani sarees of Bengal, “Bichitrapar” of Bargarh and Sambalpur are the unique
Karalkuddi sarees of Kerala, Kora cotton sarees of traditional textile products reflecting the essence of
Coimbatore, Paithani shalu of Maharashtra, Patolas traditional way of life with expression of their unparallel
and Tanchois of Gujarat, Rathwa loincloth of Chhota depth, range, strength and craftsmanship. In contrast to
Udaipur and Temple silks of South from Kancheepuram, the mosaic like appearance of “Patola” of Gujarat,
Arni, and Dharmavaram. “Checkboard” and “Chowk” design of Puchampali,
Odisha is a beautiful state enriched with huge Andhra Pradesh and “Bandhni” of Rajasthan, the
landscape and enormous forest products. Across the appearance of design and forms of Odisha have a soft
unending green fields and forests, the harmonic and curvilinear effect. Odisha’s handloom base is made of

HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

 MITALI DALAI AND SADHANA D. KULLOLI

two distinct types of products, the low quality plain fabrics For silk sarees, 80 reed count is generally used with
that are used for towels, dhotis and plain sarees and the pick count 80. The denting order for the body is of 2
other of high quality with designs of intensive tie and ends per cent and for border 4 ends passed through 1
dye ‘Ikat’ and ‘Bomkai’ fabrics (Mohapatra, 2014). dent where the loom is attached with dobby attachment.
Hence, an effect is made to study the Ikat sarees of In case of sambalpuri and bomkai silk sarees the cloth
Odisha. count is 20 to 22 denier. The length of the pallav in silk
and bomkai saree is of 1 meter and the weight of silk
RESEARCH METHODS saree ranged between 600-700g.
The information needed to document the different The length of both cotton and silk saree is 5.5 meters,
types of sarees, motifs and their placement on the saree but when woven along with blouse piece the length
was collected from Sambalpur Bastralaya, HLCS Ltd., increased to 6.5 meters. The width of all the sarees are
Bargarh. A self-structured interview schedule was used 45 inches. The width of the border ranged from 3 to 6
to elicit the information on the types of silk and cotton inches whereas in few sarees it ranged upto 8 to 10
sarees manufactured and motifs used in the popular ikat inches and width of the body ranged from 35 to 42 inches.
sarees of Odisha. Few single ikat cotton sarees are woven without borders.
Among all the sarees, cotton bomkai saree is the lightest.
RESEARCH FINDINGS DISCUSSION
AND
The findings of the present study as well as relevant Types of Odisha sarees :
discussion have been presented under following heads : Odisha sarees are distinguished and characterized
by its design, fibre content, colour, motifs and graceful
Types of sarees and specifications : look. Varieties of sarees available in Odisha are single
Saree specification includes the constructional ikat sambalpuri saree, double ikat sakata or passapali
details of the different traditional cotton and silk sarees saree, bafta saree, plain silk ikat saree, silk and cotton
of Odisha and fabric information. Popular cotton and bomkai sarees which are made up of either warp or weft
silk sarees available in Odisha and their fabric information ikat or both warp and weft Ikat in sakatapar saree. In
is presented in Table 1. For weaving cotton sarees reed bomkai saree extra weft yarn of cotton in different layouts
of 72 count is used with 70-72 pick count, denting order including buttis, flower, dancers, animal or paper designs
for the body is of 2 ends per dent and for border 4 ends are used. In few sarees jari is also used as extra weft.
passed through 1 dent with dobby attachment. The cloth The details of various types of Odisha sarees are:
count of cotton Ikat saree is 2/80s to 2/120s and 2/120s
for cotton bomkai saree. The length of the pallav in cotton Single Ikat sambalpuri saree :
saree ranged from 0.5 to 1 meter whereas the weight Saree is woven using warp ikat yarn of 2/80’s, 2/
ranged between 500-800 g. 100’s and 2/120’s yarn count. Sara bandha,

Table 1 : Fabric information of cotton and silk Odisha sarees

Yarn type (Silk/Cotton) Yarn count/ Denier (Ne) Dimension of the saree Wt of the
Sr. Length (mt) Width (inch) saree (g)
Saree type
No. Warp Weft Extra Wp Wft Extra S B1 B2 P S B1 B2 P
weft weft
1. Single Ikat Cotton Cotton _ 2/120 to 2/120 to _ 5 to 4.5 to 5 to 0.5 to 45 to 45 3 45 450-600
saree 2/80 2/80 5.5 5 5.5 1 48
Double Ikat Cotton Cotton _ 2/120 2/120 _ 5.5 4.5 5.5 1 48 43 to 3-5 43 to 450-500
saree 45 45
2. Cotton Bomkai Cotton Cotton Cotton 2/120 2/120 2/120 5.5 4.5 5.5 1 48 40 to 3-8 40 to 500
saree 45 45
3. Silk Ikat saree Silk Silk _ 20-22 20-22 _ 5.5 4.5 5.5 1 48 43 to 3-5 43 to 650
45 45
4. Silk Bomkai Silk Silk Cotton 20-22 20-22 2/120 5.5 4.5 5.5 1 48 40 to 3-8 40 to 650
saree 45 45
S = Saree, B1 = Body, B2 = Border, P = Pallav

Asian J. Home Sci., 12(1) June, 2017 : 193-200 194 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
 Ikat sarees OF ODISHA

Bichitrapuri, Utkalalaxmi, Tapoi, Aradhana are

famous sambalpuri ikat sarees and the name is given
according to designs and motifs used. In the pallav of
the saree, 7, 11 and 13 line Sara ikat is used (Plate 1).

Plate 2 : Cotton double Ikat Ikat Sakata or Passapali saree

Plate 1 : Cotton single ikat Sambalpur saree

Double Ikat sakata or Passapali saree :

This Saree is manufactured from a very long period
of time. In the beginning, the body of the Saree had 3
chamber which were bigger in size and now woven with
5 chambers. The saree is prepared by double ikat by
calculating the space dyed yarns according to design so
that the same colour is produced after interlacement of
yarn during weaving. In the beginning the saree was
woven without border, but know produced along with
borders (Plate 2).

Cotton Bomkai saree :

The body of the Saree is generally plain. Ikat is
seen in the border and pallav. Buttas or flower design is
woven in the body by extra threads in weft direction. In
the border, dobby design along with ikat is produced (Plate Plate 3 : Cotton Bomkai saree
3).

Silk Ikat saree : (Plate 4).

Single Ikat saree is woven using 20-22 denier tassar
silk. Sometimes in pallav cotton mix bandha is seen where Silk Bomkai saree :
3 ply silk yarn as warp and cotton yarn as weft is used Saree is woven with 2ply × 3ply silk yarns with

Asian J. Home Sci., 12(1) June, 2017 : 193-200 195 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
 MITALI DALAI AND SADHANA D. KULLOLI

during weaving through adjustment of weft Ikat design

in warp. The border and pallav design is woven with
extra threads in a geometrical curvilinear pattern to have
the extra prominence of the fabric (Plate 5).

Types of motifs used in Odisha Sarees :

The motifs used in Odisha Sarees are designs of
various sizes and shapes, which are striking, exquisite,
tremendous and sturdy. Floral pattern, Geometrical
pattern, small flower Buttis, human figure, Shankha,
Chakra, animal and bird depictions are used in Sarees
(Plate 6).

Plate 4 : Silk Ikat saree

Plate 6 : Traditional pallav of Ikat saree

Many of these designs and methods used in creation

are traditional; many contemporary designers constantly
try to revive them according to the changing trend. The
Odisha motifs are designed in a very sophisticated way
and are very delicate and intricate styles as the motifs
are arranged by tieing the yarn according to the desired
Plate 5 : Silk Bomkai saree
patterns. The master weavers prepare designs on graph
paper (point paper) and tie the yarns as per the designs
predetermined colour and design and the fine curvilinear in Ikat sarees whereas, for Bomkai sarees the designs
Ikat designs reflecting the motifs on the body of the saree. are transferred to the punch cards (pattern cards or
The designs are incorporated on the body of the fabric jacquard pattern chain) for weaving with jacquard

Asian J. Home Sci., 12(1) June, 2017 : 193-200 196 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
 Ikat sarees OF ODISHA

Plate 7: Motifs and patterns used in Odisha sarees Plate 7 contd…

Sr. 8. Motif Name - Hatee
Motif name and details
No. Details of Motif - The
1. Motif Name - Chakra elephant motif is mainly
Details of Motif - This motif is used in the pallav of the
derived from the chakra held saree which signifies
by Lord Jagganath. Chakra or strength and pride.
divine wheel has capacity to
kill illiteracy or lack of
knowledge.

9. Motif Name - Phula

2. Motif Name - Shanka Details of Motif - A large
Details of Motif - A shell single flower independently
shaped motif is used in the used in the body or smaller size
saree which is found in the flowers are more densely used
arms of God Jagannath. This towards the pallav of the Saree.
motif of different shape and
designs is commonly used in
border and pallav of the
saree
3. Motif Name - Padma
Details of Motif - Single lotus 10. Motif Name – Phula gacha
motif or in combination with Details of Motif - A flower
creeper is used mostly in ikat pod shaped motif with leaves
sarees. Padma symbolises signifies beauty.
knowledge and beauty.

4. Motif Name - Horse

Details of Motif - Horse
motif represents progress and 11. Motif Name - Passapali
speed. This motifs is also Details of Motif - Motif of
used in barati designs distinctive marron or black and
incorporated in the pallav of white squares is a replica of the
the Ikat and Bomkai saree chessboard. This motif is
commonly used. Pasapali is
derived from pasa or gambling
5. Motif Name - Harina games using Chess board.
Details of Motif - A deer
shaped motifs used in the
pallav of the saree represents
love. 12. Motif Name – Chita jhoti
Details of Motif - Motifs
that resemble the jhoti done
on the floor and wall of rural
6. Motif Name - Lion household
Details of Motif - The
singha bandha or motif of
Lion is imitation of Lion of
Jagganath temple and
represents pride and power.

13. Motif Name - Butti

Details of Motif - A buti
7. Motif Name - Peacock created by arranging the points
Details of Motif - Peacock, and/ or dots which is
Goose or Duck, Parrot independently used in the body.
including lotus motif represents
love.

Contd… Plate 7 Contd… Plate 7

Asian J. Home Sci., 12(1) June, 2017 : 193-200 197 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
 MITALI DALAI AND SADHANA D. KULLOLI

Plate 7 contd… Plate 7 contd…

14. Motif Name – Phul jhuti 20. Motif Name – Sara bandha
Details of Motif - A flower Details of Motif - Ikat
shaped butti generally seen designs of different animal
in Bomkai saree. Motif is motifs are used in different
woven by jacquard lines in the pallav of the
mechanism saree. This is the common
pallav designs of most of the
traditional sarees. Sara ikat
designs of 7 to 13 lines are
incorporated in the pallav of
the Ikat saree.
21. Motif Name - Paper design
15. Motif Name - Ethnic
Details of Motif – The motifs
Details of Motif - Ethnic
does not have any specific
motifs of human, animal and
meaning. These are designed
their activity.
by the weavers itself. These
design are mostly used done in
bomkai saree and incorporated
by extra weft yarns using
jacquard mechanism.

16. Motif Name - Deula 22. Motif Name - Putli

Details of Motif - Temple Details of Motif – A doll
shaped motifs are arranged shaped motifs are seen in the
in a line towards the pallav body of the Saree.
of the saree.

17. Motif Name - Machha 23. Motif Name - Aradhana

Details of Motif - Fish shaped Details of Motif – Motifs
motif of 3 -4 lines are woven in resemble women worshiping
the border by dobby god
attachment.

24. Motif Name - Phul butti

Details of Motif – A flower
18. Motif Name – Rudrakhya shaped butti generally seen
Details of Motif - in Bomkai saree. Motif is
Rudrakhya shaped motif woven by jacquard
incorporated by dobby mechanism
mechanism in the border of
Ikat and Bomkai Odisha
saree.

25. Motif Name - Dali

Details of Motif – A running
19. Motif Name - Dobby phula floral pattern with creeper
with machha repeated over and again in a
Details of Motif - Combination line.
of dobby flower and fish motif
along with rudrakshya motif is
seen in the border of both Ikat
and Bomkai saree.

Contd…. Plate 7 Contd… Plate 7

Asian J. Home Sci., 12(1) June, 2017 : 193-200 198 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
 Ikat sarees OF ODISHA

Plate 7 contd… Types of sarees, motifs used and their placement :

26. Motif Name - Jangal Different types of Ikat sarees available in Odisha,
Details of Motif – Scenery
of forest with different types types of motifs used and the placement of motifs are
of animal and bird motifs given in Table 2. Odisha Ikat and Bomkai sarees are
identified and sold in the market in different names based
on the motifs woven on it. Each saree has its own beauty,
richness and uniqueness. The details of different types
of motifs and patterns used are presented in Plate 7.
27. Motif Name - Barati Few of the famous cotton ikat sarees are Tapoi,
Details of Motif – The bharat
scene is designed in the pallav Aradhana, Sakata, Bichitrapuree, Utkalalaxmi and
of the Saree Sarabandha sarees (Plate 7).
In the border of Tapoi saree, swan and dobby
flower motif is used. In the body Chakra, flower, creeper,
and temple motifs are used whereas above the border
28. Motif Name - Dwara boeta (boat), swan, flower, shankha and temples motifs
Details of Motif – Door
shaped motifs which along with Saree Ikat is used
represents the gate of temple In the border of Aradhana saree, rudrakshya, lotus
or palace
flower, elephant and horse motifs are used. Motifs like
women worshiping god is woven in the body hence, the
name Aradhana saree. Other motifs such as temple,
creeper, flower and kumbha are also used. In the pallav
of the saree, lotus flower, konark chakra along with
attachment. creeper design is seen.
Few sarees of Odisha are named after the motifs In Sakata saree (also called Sambalpuri or
and patterns developed in the sarees. In this context Passapalli saree), Passapalli motifs are created by
details account of Odisha sarees, motifs and patterns using double ikat yarn in the body. Two line of creeper
employed on different sarees is presented. motif is created in the border and in both side of it floral
motifs are woven. In the pallav 7 or 11 lines of different

Table 2 : Types and placement of motifs in various types of Odisha sarees

Sr. Motifs used
Saree name
No. Body Boarder Pallav
1. Ikat saree
Baghambaree Saree Floral, temple, ghagra, sakata ikat Fish, flower design by hand or 11 or 13 line sara ikat having
dobby attachment, creeper, ghagara Floral, creeper , animals motifs
Bichitrapuree Saree Sakata ikat in between Check line Fish and puchuki flower, rudrakhya, 13 line sara ikat
swan
Utkala laxmi Saree 4,6, 8 and 16 petal flower is seen in Flower bud, 8 petal puchuki flower, Flower motifs
between chamber, puchuki flower rudrakhya
Aradhana Saree Worshiping lady, temple, creeper, Rudrakshya motif, lotus flower, Sakata, lotus flower, chakra, creeper
flower elephant, kumbha, creeper
Tapoe Saree Flower, Creeper, Chakra, temple or Swan, rudrakhya or dobby Sara bandha, flower, creeper, boat,
serrated edge temple, swan
Sarabandha Saree Flower, jhoti design Flower, creeper Lotus, elephant, lion, deer, swan, fish,
butterfly, ghagra, creeper, temple
2. Double ikat Saree
Sakatapar or passapali Passapali motif, Creeper and florals motifs 7 or 11 line of saree bandha
Saree
3. Bomkai saree (cotton/ Butta Dobby phula, rudrakshya, fish, Multi idols flowers, bird, dancer,
silk) temple, passapali barati scene

Asian J. Home Sci., 12(1) June, 2017 : 193-200 199 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
 MITALI DALAI AND SADHANA D. KULLOLI

motifs are woven in separate lines. In Sambalpuri Ikat sambalpuri saree, double Ikat sakata or passapali
sakata saree, it was told that the border and pallav designs saree, silk Ikat sarees, silk and cotton bomkai saree and
are decided according to the body. bafta sarees. The single Ikat sarees are made up of either
In Bichitrapuree sarees, traditional fish and warp and weft ikat and double Ikat sarees are both warp
Puchuki flower ikat is created on both sides of saree and weft Ikat. In Bomkai saree extra weft yarn of cotton
above the border whereas, fish and Rudrakshya motifs in different layouts of motifs are incorporated using
are seen in the border. Sometimes swan and creeper jacquard mechanism. In case of ikat and bomkai silk
motifs are also used. In the pallav 13 lines of saree Ikat sarees the cloth count is 20 to 22 deniers. The length of
is designed with different types of animal and birds in the pallav in silk and bomkai saree is of 1 meter. The
between the lines. weight of silk saree ranged between 600-700g. For silk
In Utkalalaxmi saree, bud motifs and 8 petals sarees, 80 reed count is generally used with pick count
Puchuki flower is used in border. In the body 4, 6, 8 and 80. The denting order for the body is of 2 ends per dent
16 petals puchuki flower motifs is woven in between and for border 4 ends passed through 1 dent with dobby
the chamber and empty space. attachment.
In Sarabandha saree 7, 9, 11, 13 and 15 lines of
ikat are used in the pallav and in between the lines lotus, Authors’ affiliations:
elephant, lion, deer motifs of Ikat design is arranged in MITALI DALAI, Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College
of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, DHARWAD
separate lines followed by swan, fish, and butterfly motifs. (KARNATAKA) INDIA (Email : mitali.dalai792@gmail.com)
Creeper and temple motifs are placed in the beginning
and end of the line. Ghagra Ikat is also used in between
the motifs line. REFERENCES
In cotton and silk Bomkai sarees, sometimes Buta Mohapatra, Hemanta K. (2008). A cultural resurgence in Orissa
during the post independence Era. Orissa Review, April 2008,
motifs are used unless the body is plain. For anchal of
pp. 1-10
the saree, multi idols flowers, bird, dancer, barati scene
and for border dobby Phula, Rudrakshya, fish along Mohapatra, Nihar (2014). A Management Approach to
with temple and Passapali motifs are used. In the body Sambalpuri Sari with a Sign of Cultural Facets. Odisha Rev.,
of the silk Bandha saree, Buta, star, stripes, animal 130-136.
motifs by tie and dye on weft is incorporated. In the WEBLIOGRAPHY
border, flower, dobby phula, fish, rudrakshya motifs are
www.hindustantimes.com/news-feed/orissa/highdemand-
used. Whereas in plain silk Sarees, Butas are seen all cannot-save-sambalpuri-saris/article1450434.aspx
over the body and small flower, Buta and other common
motifs are also used. www.merinews.com/article/sambalpuri-sari-livingtradition/
149757.shtml
The weavers design some of the motifs in the graph
paper according to their imagination or requirement and www.hindu.com/2009/03/08/stories/
then incorporate these motifs in the saree by Ikat 2009030850440200.htm
technique. These motifs have no specific name hence,
www.telegraphindia.com/1101123/jsp/orissa/
called as paper design or motifs.
story_13209136.jsp
Conclusion : www.sambalpuribastralaya.co.in/index.asp
Types of sarees manufactured in Odisha are single
www.boyanika.com/

12 Year
th

 of Excellence 

Asian J. Home Sci., 12(1) June, 2017 : 193-200 200 HIND INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY