Technical Textiles

Prof. Apurba Das

Lecture - 01
Introduction to Technical Textiles

We will start with the basic understanding of technical textiles before going to specific areas, so,
to understand technical textiles, we have to know the basic definition.
(Refer slide Time: 00:32)

So, the textiles exist dates back to several 1000 years ago and clothing being one of the primary
need of human being. But if we see the technical textiles the way in which we perceive today it is
quite younger. And if we see that last 2 or 3 decades, we have seen tremendous growth in the
application of fibrous materials in non conventional sectors. Non-conventional means non-
apparel, non-home furnishing areas.

These are like protective clothing, medical products like medical textiles, automotive
components, geotextiles, building materials, sports and many other areas. So, now we use textile
materials in these areas for specific technical purpose that is why we may term these textiles as
technical textiles.
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So, these newer applications, so, when we talk about the specific application that required
development of polymers, newer polymers type of fibres and downstream processes to meet the
specific challenge for a particular area, like woven fabric, let us say woven fabric we can use
woven fabric for filter application or woven fabric for say, thermal protective application, but
their construction, their selection of fibre finishing techniques will be entirely different
depending on the application.

So, in the textile industry, technical textiles are the most dynamic one and promising area for
future of the textile industry. Now, if we talk about the traditional textile, as far as textile
industry is concerned, it is getting saturated, stagnant there is no scope or very little scope of
development. Although in apparel fashion industries, they are doing well. But as far as textile
manufacturing is concerned, for apparel and home furnishing of non-technical applications
rather, it is getting saturated. So, it is very important to shift towards the technical textile area for
the survival of the textile industry.
(Refer slide Time: 04:18)
So, let us try to understand the difference between technical and traditional textiles. This will
help us in understanding the ways to develop technical textiles and to shift from traditional to
technical textiles. So, in technical textile we use the product mainly in non-textile industry like, if
it is automotive textiles, the automotive industries are using, filter fabric different industries are
using the filter fabric, but in traditional textile basically limited to clothing and home furnishing.

The technical textiles are designed to perform heavy duty and demanding applications, like fire
protective clothing. Apparently it looks a normal clothing, but it has to perform specific
application, like it has to be fire retardant, heat protection, protection from extreme heat, it has to
be breathable so that moisture generated in the skin should come out. It should be water
impermeable, so there are various specific requirements. If we talk about the geotextiles their
requirements are entirely different.

But in traditional textiles, no such stringent requirements are there. Even in traditional textiles,
the strength is not that important because once the product is developed or production process is
done so we do not need that much strength, like in weaving, we need strength of yarn that is
enough, but in whenever we come to the fabric area basically in traditional textiles, aesthetic,
comfort, these are the characteristics which are important.

In technical textile generally we use high performance fibres, yarns, chemicals, these are
required to meet the specific performance, basically that if we talk about the fire protective
clothing again we use meta aramid fibre which is fire protective, very high melting point. But in
traditional textiles we normally do not need any special fibres, yarns or fabric conversion
technique conventional fibres yarns are generally used. In technical textiles, we require special
methods and specially built machine to manufacture technical textiles.

But in traditional textiles, we do not need specialty machines to produce the traditional product,
like in technical textiles, we may need composite manufacturing, for composite we need very
special machines, we will discuss in detail, or may be filter fabric we may need nano fibre
coating. So, that requires specialty manufacturing technique. But in traditional textiles, we do not
need such machinery regular machines are capable to produce the traditional textile products.
(Refer slide Time: 09:33)

Another important aspect is that this technical textiles are generally very expensive. So, it is
expected to last longer not only due to the cost but the expected life should be long because the
other parameters other structures are dependent on the technical textiles, like for geotextiles,
once we lay the geotextile under the ground, say for railway track construction or road way
construction, the life should be very long. Otherwise we cannot afford to change frequently.

On the other end, traditional textiles are little bit cheaper in price and we do not expect longer
life. For technical textiles we need specific test methods because the requirement of technical
textiles are very specific, which we do not need in case of traditional textiles. Like geotextile, for
geotextile we need very very specific test methods, like repeated loading, long term, clogging
behavior, surface adherence characteristics, which you do not need for traditional textiles. So, all
these aspects will discuss in detail. Now, let us try to first understand, what are technical textiles
as far as literature is concerned?
(Refer slide Time: 11:49)

The technical textiles are value added textile products that provide added functionality and
applications other than regular fibre to fashion supply chain. So, we need some added
functionality, regular fibre to fashion supply chain is okay. But, if we add some functionality
then we will call those products as technical textile products, like normal fabric, normal fibre to
fashion supply chain products, if we say impart one extra functionality like, UV protection that
will become technical textile product or may be anti-bacterial finishing. We can call that as
technical textile product or functional product and this technical textile encompass high
performance fibre, yarn and different type of conversion techniques like woven, knitted,
nonwoven, braided, as well as composite structures.
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So, the simple understanding of technical textile is, these technical textiles can be any fibrous
material and their combinations with other items which have non-apparel applications, excluding
paper. Paper we do not consider as technical textile product, although it is made up of very short
fibres.
(Refer slide Time: 14:03)

So, by standard definition, the technical textile is defined as these are the textile materials and
products manufactured primarily for their technical and performance properties rather than their
aesthetic and decorative characteristics. Although this we consider as standard definition, but it
has got limitations. So, in this definition, we term filter fabri,c geotextiles, medical product,
protective clothing, tyre cord, composite in aerospace, these are the areas we can bring all this
area within this definition.
But such narrow description, however, constrict the scope of technical textiles, since there are
textile products that combine the dual performance that is performance as well as aesthetic or
decorative properties. So, aesthetic and decorative properties are also important. And if we add
some performance, then we may call them as technical textiles. Like flame retardant furnishings,
breathable leisurewear, these are technical textiles. So a furnishing fabric, if we impart flame
retardancy, although it’s basic function is decorative performing, but if we impart flame
retardancy then it will become technical textiles.
(Refer slide Time: 16:14)

So, first, then we can ask, why do we need technical textiles? The areas in various industries,
where other technical materials like normally we use steel were being used for centuries together
the technical textile could make their foray to replace the conventional materials due to various
advantages. So, the conventional technical materials are being replaced by technical textiles
gradually. The main advantages of technical textiles over conventional products like steel or
wood are their flexibility, their elasticity, strength and design possibilities.

The strength means specific strength, if we compare the technical textile product the specific
strength that means strength offered per unit mass is much, much higher. So, tyre cord fabric, a
textile construction provides 75% of total strength of automotive tyre. So, these are the textile
products, textile structure in composites, the composite parts used in automotive, aerospace, civil
and mechanical engineer applications. They are mainly used for their lightweight and they are
stronger than steel as far as specific strength is concerned. So, now automotive and aerospace
body parts are produced from textile composites due to reduction in mass.
(Refer slide Time: 18:40)

So, if we see the Asia’s influence on the global textile market, technical textile market, there are
basically 4 players, China, India, South Korea and Taiwan. And the main sectors are automotive,
infrastructure, agriculture, protective textiles, medical and healthcare textiles. These are the
major sectors. Apart from these sectors, there are many other sectors also coming up.
(Refer slide Time: 19:31)

Now, if we see the technical textile scenario in India, unfortunately it has not picked up, but we
are gradually trying to pick the market. The technical textile consumption in India is one-fifth of
total Asian consumption. Our consumption is one-fifth of total Asian consumption and
employment growth is expected 13% and around 3 million people were involved in technical
textile sector but if we see the nonwoven products, it is only 3% of Asia’s product. So, we have
tremendous scope in nonwoven sector.
(Refer slide Time: 20:52)

And the areas of Indian textile industry, if you see the technical textile industry, mainly
packaging sector, we are doing here little bit, home textiles and industrial textiles mainly filter
fabric and conveyor belts like this. So, we need to focus all these areas, although average growth
rate is 12%. But if you see the actual production expected production in billion dollar it is 8.4 in
packtech, these are the major area, India is doing well but we must concentrate in other areas
also. So, we must see, what are the reasons, why then the Indian technical textile industry has not
grown yet?
(Refer slide Time: 22:10)
The main requirements for growth of technical textile sector in India are these reasons that lack
of awareness on how to make finished or convert technical textile products. So, we are lacking
the awareness of making the finished product. Marketing know how to sell and trade the
technical textile products. So, we must understand the need of the customers. Technical textile
sector in India should know where and how technical textiles are used on a daily basis. So these
are the areas if we focus we will be able to generate the job opportunity and enhance the
production capabilities.
(Refer slide Time: 23:20)

The global perspective for technical textiles in India: India's specialty fabric and nonwoven
industry is fragmented. So, we have industries, but they are in very small players are there. It is
totally fragmented. No big industries are there which are working on only technical textiles or
nonwovens. And the industries are also not very interested in setting up state of the art
technology as compared to the global players.

We are measurably dependent on the import of technical textiles, but we must change our
mindset. Textile industry is also undergoing a major reorientation from apparel to specialty
fabric applications. So, this is good sign, but this reorientation is not that fast.
(Refer slide Time: 24:45)

Although the focus of the government is upgrading the infrastructure where geosynthetics are
used and increasing the use of automotive textiles, where nonwovens are measurely used. So,
government is trying hard in introducing technical textiles in India. Other niche areas are safety
and protective textiles which are mainly used for defense personnel, medical textiles, agricultural
textiles like nets, shading, and industrial textiles, basically filter fabrics. These are the areas
where we have great scope in India.
(Refer slide Time: 25:52)
Now coming to the classification of technical textiles. Broadly the technical textiles are classified
in 3 areas, they are classified based on raw material, based on manufacturing process and based
on areas of application. So, if we see the raw materials, they are again classified in various
classes, the fibres are natural fibres where we may use flax, hemp, ramie, cotton, wool, jute.

So, these are the fibres, natural fibres, which we use for technical textiles. Regenerated fibres
viscose, rayon, acetate they are also used in technical textiles, they have specific properties,
synthetic fibres like polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile. So, these are the normal synthetic
fibres. Mineral fibres are also used glass, ceramic, asbestos. So, these are the fibres which we use
in technical textiles product and metals. So, these are the raw materials we use for technical
textiles.

As far as the conversion process is concerned, we use conventional weaving also, knitting, warp
knitting, weft knitting we use. In weaving, depending on the requirement, we sometimes use
narrow woven fabric, like seatbelt in car or tape. So, these are the narrow weaving we used and
broad weaving also is sometimes used, if we use say geotextile, woven geotextile where we need
wide width weaving. These are not required for apparel applications.

Another ways nonwoven wet laying, thermal bonding or chemical bonding, needle punching. So,
these are the areas we use. As far as applications are concerned the technical textiles are
classified in different areas, agricultural application, structural application, geotextile, military
and defense application, safety and protective application, transportation, architectural
construction, filtration, medical application, paper making machine clothing application, sports
and recreation, general industrial application, like conveyor belts and all these appear. These are
the few areas apart from this there are many areas of application.
(Refer slide Time: 29:58)

So, after this classification, basically the Techtextil, one leading international trade exhibition
organization for technical textiles, they have classified the technical textiles in 12 main areas of
application. What are these areas? First is agrotech. Agrotech is basically it is the technical
textiles used for mainly the agriculture, aquaculture, horticulture or forestry application. So
whatever textiles we used specifically for these areas are coming under agrotech.

Buildtech- basically it is a building and construction, like fibre reinforced concrete, this technical
textile will come under buildtech or composites also. Clothtech basically technical components
for footwear or clothing. Now-a-days we see in footwear majority of the components are
basically textile these are the, these are coming under clothtech. Geotech is an applications in
geotextiles and civil engineering applications.
(Refer slide Time: 32:15)
So, this geotextile, geotech, are different from agrotech and buildtech, although sometimes it
may overlap hometech The technical textile products which are used as the components of
furniture, floor covering, household textiles, these all are coming under hometech. Indotech-
basically it is these are the filtration, industrial filtration, conveying cleaning and other industrial
applications. Medtech- basically hygiene and medical applications. Mobiltech- automobiles,
shipping, railway and aerospace application.

Oekotect- mainly environment protection, textiles used for environment protection, like filter
may also come in to environmental protection, oekotech. Packtech- it is basically used for
packaging where our countries doing well. Protech- personal and property protection, like
extreme heat or fire protective clothing, extreme cold protective clothing, these are all coming
under this protech. Sportech- basically sports and leisure. So, these are the 12 areas the technical
textiles are divided in based on the areas of application. Now, let us understand the variables,
what are the variables in the production of technical textiles?
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First variable is the selection of Polymer. We cannot use polymers randomly. Depending on the
type of application type of functional requirement we have to select the polymer. Whether we
need thermoplastic or thermoset polymer that depends on the areas of application. Crystallinity
and molecular weight typically influenced the fibre property. So, we have to decide the
crystallinity and molecular weight we have to select accordingly.

Next is the type of fibre. As I have already mentioned, there are different types of fibres; natural
fibre or synthetic fibre. So, depending on the application, we may select natural fibre or
manmade fibre. If we need high strength, very high strength, say a bulletproof clothing, we
cannot use normal natural fibre like cotton, flax, jute, there we have to use high performance
fibre like Kevlar. We normally use for very high strength composite manufacturing, we normally
use carbon.

So, depending on the application area we have to decide the type of fibre. And also whether we
need the filament or staple that also depends on the areas of application. Suppose we want to
entrap higher amount of air within the structure, we may go for staple fibre. Sometime we need
fibre with higher safe factor for better wickability. So, we have to decide depending on the
application.

Next comes the type of yarn. Staple yarn, monofilament, multifilament, twisted, textured. These
are the different types of yarn and this methods of selection of type of yarn whether we will go
for monofilament yarn or multifilament yarn, staple yarn or whether it is a twist less or twisted
depends on the type of application. And we may select different methods of staple yarn
production like ring spun, rotor spun, air jet, friction. They are used in technical textiles, but
depending on the type of application.
(Refer slide Time: 37:30)

After yarn, then comes the fabric. Converting the yarn to fabric, as far as woven and knitted are
concerned, we need to first select yarn then the fabric, but nonwoven we get directly from the
fibre. For higher performance many technical textile product we use multi-layer, so selection of
single layer or multi-layer or sometimes we use 3 dimensional fabric to have required
characteristics.

And after everything, polymer, fibre, yarn, fabric the finishing technique is extremely important,
where we can impart special properties, like special coating, breathable coating or maybe water
repellent coating, anti-static coating or maybe anti-soil coating. So, different types of coatings
are there, where we can impart through finishing techniques.
(Refer slide Time: 38:55)
Now, if we see the fibre properties, this we will discuss in next class. Till then thank you.