Engine Cooling and Lubrication

Systems

Course No: M04-045

Credit: 4 PDH

Elie Tawil, P.E., LEED AP

Continuing Education and Development, Inc.

22 Stonewall Court
Woodcliff Lake, NJ 07677

P: (877) 322-5800
info@cedengineering.com
 Chapter 6
Cooling and Lubrication Systems
Topics
1.0.0 Engine Cooling Systems
2.0.0 Engine Lubricating Systems

Overview
All internal combustion engines are equipped with cooling and lubricating systems that
work in conjunction with each other to promote efficient engine operation and
performance. The cooling and lubricating systems discussed in this chapter, along with
their respective components and maintenance requirements, are representative of the
types of systems you will be expected to maintain.
Because of the variety of engines used, there are differences in the applications of
features of their cooling and lubricating systems. Keep in mind that maintenance
procedures and operational characteristics vary from engine to engine; therefore,
always refer to the manufacturer's service manuals for specific information.

Objectives
When you have completed this chapter, you will be able to do the following:
1. Understand the relationship of the cooling system to engine operation.
2. Identify design and functional features of individual cooling system
components.
3. Identify maintenance procedures applicable to cooling systems.
4. Identify types of lubrication (oil) systems.
5. Understand operational characteristics and maintenance requirements of
lubrication systems.

Prerequisites
None

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-1

This course map shows all of the chapters in Construction Mechanic Basic. The
suggested training order begins at the bottom and proceeds up. Skill levels increase as
you advance on the course map.

Automotive Chassis and Body

Brakes
Construction Equipment Power Trains C
Drive Lines, Differentials, Drive Axles, M
and Power Train Accessories
Automotive Clutches, Transmissions,
and Transaxles
Hydraulic and Pneumatic Systems

Automotive Electrical Circuits and B

Wiring A
Basic Automotive Electricity S
Cooling and Lubrication Systems I
Diesel Fuel Systems C
Gasoline Fuel Systems
Construction of an Internal Combustion
Engine
Principles of an Internal Combustion
Engine
Technical Administration

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NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-2

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NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-3

1.0.0 ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS
An internal combustion engine produces power by burning fuel within the cylinders;
therefore, it is often referred to as a "heat engine." However, only about 25% of the heat
is converted to useful power. What happens to the remaining 75 percent? Thirty to thirty
five percent of the heat produced in the combustion chambers by the burning fuel is
dissipated by the cooling system along with the lubrication and fuel systems. Forty to
forty-five percent of the heat produced passes out with the exhaust gases. If this heat
were not removed quickly, overheating and extensive damage would result. Valves
would burn and warp, lubricating oil would break down, pistons and bearings would
overheat and seize, and the engine would soon stop.
The necessity for cooling may be emphasized by considering the total heat developed
by an ordinary six cylinder engine. It is estimated that such an engine operating at
ordinary speeds generates enough heat to warm a six-room house in freezing weather.
Also, peak combustion temperatures in a gasoline engine may reach as high as 4500°F,
while that of a diesel engine may approach 6000°F. The valves, pistons, cylinder walls,
and cylinder head, all of which must be provided some means of cooling to avoid
excessive temperatures, absorb some of this heat. Even though heated gases may
reach high temperatures, the cylinder wall temperatures must not be allowed to rise
above 400°F to 500°F. Temperatures above this result in serious damage, as already
indicated. However, for the best thermal efficiency, it is desirable to operate the engine
at temperatures closely approximating the limits imposed by the lubricating oil
properties.
The cooling system has four primary functions:
• Remove excess heat from the engine.
• Maintain a constant engine operating temperature.
• Increase the temperature of a cold engine as quickly as possible.
• Provide a means for heater operation (warming the passenger compartment).
Air is continually present in large enough quantities to cool a running engine; therefore,
vehicle engines are designed to dissipate their heat into the air through which a vehicle
passes. This action is accomplished either by direct air-cooling or indirectly by liquid
cooling. In this chapter we will be concerned with both types, and the discussion will
include a description of the various components of the systems and an explanation of
their operation.

1.1.0 Air-Cooled Systems

The simplest type of cooling is the air-cooled, or direct, method in which the heat is
drawn off by moving air in direct contact with the engine. Several fundamental principles
of cooling are embodied in this type of engine cooling. The rate of the cooling is
dependent upon the following:
• Area exposed to the cooling medium
• Heat conductivity of the metal used and the volume of the metal or its size in
cross section
• Amount of air flowing over the heated surfaces
• Difference in temperature between the exposed metal surfaces and the cooling
air
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-4
Some heat, of course, must be retained
for efficient operation. This is done by use
of thermostatic controls and mechanical
linkage, which open and close shutters to
control the volume of cooling air. You will
find that air-cooled engines generally
operate at a higher temperature than
liquid-cooled engines whose operating
temperature is largely limited by the
boiling point of the coolant used.
Consequently, greater clearances must
be provided between the moving parts of
air-cooled engines to allow for increased
expansion. Also, lubricating oil of a higher
viscosity is generally required.
In air-cooled engines the cylinders are
mounted independently to the crankcase
so an adequate volume of air can Figure 6-1 - Air-cooled Engine.
circulate directly around each cylinder,
absorbing heat and maintaining cylinder head temperatures within allowable limits for
satisfactory operation. In all cases, the cooling action is based on the simple principle
that the surrounding air is cooler than the engine. The main components of an air-
cooled system are the fan, shroud, baffles, and fins. A typical air-cooled engine is
shown in Figure 6-1.

1.1.1 Fan and Shroud

All stationary air-cooled engines must have a fan or blowers of some type to circulate a
large volume of cooling air over and around the cylinders. The fan for the air-cooled
engine shown in Figure 6-1 is built into the flywheel. Notice that the shrouding, or
cowling, when assembled will form a compartment around the engine so the cooling air
is properly directed for effective cooling. Air-cooled engines, such as those used on
motorcycles and outboard engines, do not require the use of fans or shrouds because
their movement through the air results in sufficient airflow over the engine for adequate
cooling.

1.1.2 Baffles and Fins

In addition to the fan and shroud, some engines use baffles or deflectors to direct the
cooling air from the fan to those parts of the engine not in the direct path of the airflow.
Baffles are usually made of light metal and are semicircular, with one edge in the air
stream to direct the air to the back of the cylinders.
Most air-cooled engines use thin fins that are raised projections on the cylinder barrel
and head. The fins provide more cooling area or surface, and aid in directing airflow.
Heat, resulting from combustion, passes by conduction from the cylinder walls and
cylinder head to the fins and is carried away by the passing air.
1.1.3 Maintaining the Air-Cooled System
You may think that because the air-cooled system is so simple it requires no
maintenance. Many mechanics think this way and many air-cooled engine failures occur
as a result. Maintenance of an air-cooled system consists primarily of keeping cooling
components clean. Clean components permit rapid transfer of heat and ensure that

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-5

nothing prevents the continuous flow and circulation of air. To accomplish this, keep
fans, shrouds, baffles, and fins free of dirt, bugs, grease, and other foreign matter. The
engine may look clean from the outside, but what is under the shroud? An accumulation
of dirt and debris here can cause real problems; therefore, keep this area between the
engine and shroud clean.
Paint can cause a problem. Sometimes a mechanic will reduce the efficiency of the
cooling system by the careless use of paint. The engine may look good, but most paints
act as an insulator and hold in heat. In addition to keeping the cooling components
clean, you must inspect them each time the engine is serviced. Replace or repair any
broken or bent parts. Check the fins for cracks or breaks. When cracks extend into the
combustion chamber area, the cylinder barrel must be replaced.
Now that we have studied the simplest method of cooling, let us look at the most
common, but also the most complex system.

1.2.0 Liquid-Cooled System

Nearly all multi cylinder engines used in
automotive, construction, and material-
handling equipment use a liquid-cooled
system. Any liquid used in this type of
system is called a coolant.
A simple liquid-cooled system consists of a
radiator, coolant pump, piping, fan,
thermostat, and a system of water jackets
and passages in the cylinder head and
block through which the coolant circulates
(Figure 6-2). Some vehicles are equipped
with a coolant distribution tube inside the
cooling passages that directs additional
coolant to the points where temperatures
are highest. Cooling of the engine parts is
accomplished by keeping the coolant
circulating and in contact with the metal
surfaces to be cooled. The operation of a Figure 6-2 - Liquid-cooled
liquid cooled system is as follows: System.
• The pump draws the coolant from the bottom of the radiator, forcing the coolant
through the water jackets and passages, and ejects it into the upper radiator
tank.
• The coolant then passes through a set of tubes to the bottom of the radiator from
which the cooling cycle begins.
• The radiator is situated in front of a fan that is driven either by the water pump or
an electric motor. The fan ensures airflow through the radiator at times when
there is no vehicle motion.
• The downward flow of coolant through the radiator creates what is known as a
thermo siphon action. This simply means that as the coolant is heated in the
jackets of the engine, it expands. As it expands, it becomes less dense and
therefore lighter. This causes it to flow out of the top outlet of the engine and into
the top tank of the radiator.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-6

 • As the coolant is cooled in the radiator, it again becomes more dense and
heavier. This causes the coolant to settle to the bottom tank of the radiator.
• The heating in the engine and the cooling in the radiator therefore create a
natural circulation that aids the water pump.
The amount of engine heat that must be removed by the cooling system is much greater
than is generally realized. To handle this heat load, it may be necessary for the cooling
system in some engines to circulate 4,000 to 10,000 gallons of coolant per hour. The
water passages, the size of the pump and radiator, and other details are so designed as
to maintain the working parts of the engine at the most efficient temperature within the
limitation imposed by the coolant.

1.2.1 Radiator
In the cooling system, the radiator is a heat
exchanger that removes the heat from the
coolant passing through it. The radiator
holds a large volume of coolant in close
contact with a large volume of air so heat
will transfer from the coolant to the air. The
components of a radiator are as follows:
• Core-the center section of the
radiator made up of tubes and
cooling fins.
• Tanks-the metal or plastic ends
that fit over core tube ends to
provide storage for coolant and
fittings for the hoses.
• Filler neck-the opening for adding
coolant. It also holds the radiator cap
Figure 6-3 - Radiator.
and overflow tube.
• Oil cooler-the inner tank for cooling automatic transmission or transaxle fluid.
• Petcock-the fitting on the bottom of the tank for draining coolant.
A tube-and-fin radiator consists of a series of tubes extending from top to bottom or
from side to side (Figure 6-3). The tubes run from the inlet tank to the outlet tank. Fins
are placed around the outside of the tubes to improve heat transfer. Air passes between
the fins. As the air passes by, it absorbs heat from the coolant. In a typical radiator, there
are five fins per inch. Radiators used in vehicles that have air conditioning have seven
fins per inch. This design provides the additional cooling surface required to handle the
added heat load imposed by the air conditioner.
Radiators are classified according to the direction that the coolant flows through them.
The two types of radiators are the downflow and crossflow.
• The older, downflow radiator has the coolant tanks on the top and bottom, and the
core tubes run vertically. Hot coolant from the engine enters the top tank. The
coolant flows downward through the core tubes. After cooling, coolant flows out
the bottom tank and back into the engine.
• The crossflow radiator is a design that has the tanks on the sides of the core and
is the modern type of radiator. The core tubes are arranged for horizontal coolant
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-7
 flow. The tank with the radiator cap is normally the outer tank. A crossflow
radiator can be shorter, allowing for a lower vehicle hood.
The operation of a radiator is as follows:
• Tanks on each end of the radiator direct coolant flow into the radiator tubes in the
core or an outlet that will lead back to the engine.
• The core is made up of numerous rows of small horizontal tubes that connect the
left side tank with the right side tank. Sandwiched between the rows of tubes are
thin sheet metal fins. As the coolant passes through the tubes to the lower tank,
the fins conduct the heat away from it and dissipate this heat into the atmosphere.
The dissipation of the heat from the fins is aided by directing a constant air flow
between the tube and over the fins.
• The overflow tube provides an opening from the radiator for escape of coolant if
the pressure in the system exceeds the regulated maximum. This will prevent
rupture of cooling system components.
A transmission oil cooler is often placed in the radiator on vehicles with automatic
transmissions. It is a small tank enclosed in one of the main radiator tanks. Since the
transmission fluid is hotter than engine coolant, heat is removed from the fluid as it
passes through the radiator and cooler.
In downflow radiators, the transmission oil cooler is located in the lower tank. In a
crossflow radiator, it is located in the tank having the radiator cap. Both tanks are
coolant outlet tanks.
Line fittings from the cooler extend through the radiator tank to the outside. Metal lines
from the automatic transmission connect to these fittings. The transmission oil pump
forces the fluid through the lines and cooler.

1.2.2 Radiator Hoses

Radiator hoses carry coolant between the engine and the radiator. Being flexible,
hoses can withstand the vibration and rocking of the engine without breaking.
The upper radiator hose normally connects to the thermostat housing on the intake
manifold or cylinder head. The other end of the hose fits on the radiator. The lower hose
connects the water pump inlet and the radiator.
A molded hose is manufactured into a special shape with bends to clear the parts,
especially the cooling fan. It must be purchased to fit the exact year and make of the
vehicle.
A flexible hose has an accordion shape and can be bent to different angles. The pleated
construction allows the hose to bend without collapsing and blocking coolant flow. It is
also known as a universal type radiator hose.
A hose spring is used in the lower radiator hose to prevent its collapse. The lower hose
is exposed to suction from the water pump. The spring assures that the inner lining of
the hose does NOT tear away, close up, and stop circulation.

1.2.3 Radiator Pressure Cap

The radiator pressure cap is used on nearly all of the modern engines (Figure 6-4). The
radiator cap locks onto the radiator tank filler neck, rubber or metal seals make the cap-
to-neck joint airtight. The functions of the pressure cap are as follows:

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-8

 Figure 6-4 - Radiator Cap.
• Seals the top of the radiator tiller neck to prevent leakage.
• Pressurizes the system to raise the boiling point of the coolant.
• Relieves excess pressure to protect against system damage.
• In a closed system, it allows coolant flow into and from the coolant reservoir.
The radiator cap pressure valve consists of a spring-loaded disc that contacts the filler
neck. The spring pushes the valve into the neck to form a seal. Under pressure, the
boiling point of water increases. Normally, water boils at 212°F. However, for every
pound of pressure increase, the boiling point goes up 3°F.
Typical radiator cap pressure is 12 to 16 psi. This raises the boiling point of the engine
coolant to about 248°F. Many surfaces inside the water jackets can be above
212°F.
If the engine overheats and the pressure exceeds the cap rating, the pressure valve
opens. Excess pressure forces coolant out of the overflow tube and into the reservoir or
onto the ground. This prevents high pressure from rupturing the radiator, gaskets, seals,
or hoses.
The radiator cap vacuum valve opens to allow reverse flow back into the radiator when
the coolant temperature drops after engine operation. It is a smaller valve located in the
center, bottom of the cap.
The cooling and contraction of the coolant and air in the system could decrease coolant
volume and pressure. Outside atmospheric pressure could then crush inward on the
hoses and radiator. Without a cap vacuum or vent valve, the radiator hose and radiator
could collapse.

CAUTION
Always remove the radiator cap slowly and carefully. Removing the radiator cap from a
hot pressurized system can cause serious burns from escaping steam and coolant.

1.2.4 Fan and Shroud

The cooling system fan pulls a large volume of air through the radiator core that cools
the hot water circulating through the radiator. A fan belt or an electric motor drives the
fan. A fan driven by a fan belt is known as an engine-powered fan and is bolted to the
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-9
water pump hub and pulley. Sometimes a spacer fits between the fan and pulley to
move the fan closer to the radiator. Besides removing heat from the coolant in the
radiator, the flow of air created by the fan causes some direct cooling of the engine
itself.
Fan blades are spaced at intervals around the fan hub to aid in controlling vibration and
noise. They are often curled at the tip to increase their ability to move air. Except for
differences in location around the hub, most blades have the same pitch and angularity.
Bent fan blades are very common and result in noise, vibration, and excess wear on the
water pump shaft. You should inspect the fan blades, pulleys, pump shaft end play, and
drive belt at every preventive maintenance inspection.
A variable pitch (flex) fan has thin, flexible blades that alter airflow with engine speed.
These fan blades are made to change pitch as the speed of the fan increases so that
the fan will not create excessive noise or draw excessive engine power at highway
speeds. At low speeds, the fan blades remain curved and pull air through the radiator.
At higher speeds, the blades flex until they are almost straight. This reduces fan action
and saves engine power.
The fluid coupling fan clutch is designed to slip at high speeds, performing the same
function as a flexible fan. The clutch is filled with silicone-based oil. Fan speed is
controlled by the torque-carrying capacity of the oil. The more oil in the coupling, the
greater the fan speed; the less oil in the coupling, the slower the fan speed.
The thermostatic fan clutch has a temperature-sensitive, bimetallic spring that controls
fan action. The spring controls oil flow in the fan clutch. When cold, the spring causes
the clutch to slip, speeding engine warm-up. After reaching operating temperature, the
spring locks the clutch, providing forced air circulation.
An electric engine fan uses an electric motor and a thermostatic switch to provide
cooling action. An electric fan is used on front-wheel drive vehicles having transverse
mounted engines. The water pump is normally located away from the radiator.
The fan motor is a small, direct current (DC) motor. It mounts on a bracket secured to
the radiator. A metal or plastic fan blade mounts on the end of the motor shaft.
A fan switch or temperature-sensing switch controls fan motor operation. When the
engine is cold, the switch is open, keeping the fan from spinning and speeding engine
warm-up. When coolant temperature reaches approximately 210°F, the switch closes to
operate the fan and provide cooling.
An electric engine fan saves energy and increases cooling system efficiency. It
functions only when needed. By speeding engine warm-up, it reduces emissions and
fuel consumption. In cold weather, the electric fan may shut off at highway speeds.
There may be enough cool air rushing through the grille of the vehicle to provide
adequate cooling. On some models a timed relay may be incorporated that allows the
fan to run for a short time after engine shutdown. This, in conjunction with thermosiphon
action, helps to prevent boil over after engine shutdown.
The radiator shroud ensures that the fan pulls air through the radiator. It fastens to the
rear of the radiator and surrounds the area around the fan. When the fan is spinning,
the shroud keeps air from circulating between the back of the radiator and the front of
the fan. As a result, a large volume of air flows through the radiator core.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-10

1.2.5 Water Jacket
The water passages in the cylinder block and
cylinder head form the engine water jacket as
shown in Figure 6-5. In the cylinder block, the
water jacket completely surrounds all cylinders
along their full length. Within the jacket,
narrow passages are provided between the
cylinders for coolant circulation around them.
In addition, water passages are provided
around the valve seats and other hot parts of
the cylinder block. In the cylinder head, the
water jacket covers the combustion chambers
at the top of the cylinders and contains
passages around the valve seats when the
valves are located in the head.
The passages of the water jacket are
designed to control circulation of coolant and Figure 6-5 - Water jacket.
provide proper cooling throughout the engine. The pump forces coolant directly from the
radiator tank connection into the forward portion of the cylinder block. This type of
circulation would, obviously, cool the number one cylinder first, causing the rear cylinder
to accept coolant progressively heated by the cylinders ahead. To prevent this
condition, the L-head block is equipped with a coolant distribution tube that extends
from front to rear of the block, having holes adjacent to (and directed at) the hottest
parts of each cylinder. I-head engines are equipped with ferrule type coolant directors
that direct a jet of coolant toward the exhaust valve seats.

1.2.6 Thermostats
Automatic control of the temperature of the engine is necessary for efficient engine
performance and economical operation. If the engine is allowed to operate at a low
temperature, sludge buildup and excessive fuel consumption will occur. On the other
hand, overheating the engine or operating it above normal temperature will result in
burnt valves and faulty lubrication. The latter
causes early engine failure.
The thermostat senses engine temperature
and controls coolant flow through the
radiator. It allows coolant to circulate freely
only within the block until the desired
temperature is reached. This action
shortens the warm-up period. The
thermostat normally fits under the
thermostat housing between the engine and
the end of the upper radiator hose. The
pellet-type thermostat that is used in modern
pressurized cooling systems incorporates
the piston and spring principle (Figure 6-6).
The thermostat consists of a valve that is
operated by a piston or a steel pin that fits
into a small case containing a
copper-impregnated wax pellet. A spring Figure 6-6 - Thermostat.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-11

holds the piston and valve in a normally closed position. When the thermostat is heated,
the pellet expands and pushes the valve open. As the pellet and thermostat cool, spring
tension overcomes pellet expansion and the valve closes.
Thermostats are designed to open at specific temperatures. This is known as
thermostat rating. Normal ratings are between 180°F and 195°F for automotive
applications and between 170°F and 203°F for heavy-duty applications. Thermostats
will begin to open at their rated temperature and are fully open about 20°F higher. For
example, a thermostat with a rating of 195°F starts to open at that temperature and is
fully open at about 215°F.
Most engines have a small coolant bypass passage that permits some coolant to
circulate within the cylinder block and head when the engine is cold and the thermostat
is closed. This provides equal warming of the cylinders and prevents hot spots. When
the engine warms up, the bypass must close or become restricted. Otherwise, the
coolant would continue to circulate within the engine and too little would return to the
radiator for cooling.
The bypass passage may be an internal passage or an external bypass hose. The
bypass hose connects the cylinder block or head to the water pump. There are two
internal bypass systems that can be used on an engine.
• One internal bypass system uses a small, spring-loaded valve located in the
back of the water pump. The valve is forced open by coolant pressure from the
pump when the thermostat is closed. As the thermostat opens, the coolant
pressure drops within the engine and the bypass valve closes.
• Another bypass system has a blocking-bypass thermostat (Figure 6-7). This
thermostat operates as previously described, but it also has a secondary, or
bypass, valve. When the thermostat valve is closed, the circulation to the radiator
is shut off. However, when the bypass valve is open, coolant is allowed to
circulate through the bypass. As the thermostat valve opens, coolant flows into the
radiator and the bypass valve closes.

Figure 6-7 - Bypass Thermostat.

Some stationary engines and large trucks are equipped with shutters that supplement
the action of the thermostat in providing a faster warm-up and in maintaining proper
operating temperatures. When the engine coolant is below a predetermined
temperature, the shutters, located in front of the radiator, remain closed and restrict the
flow of air through the radiator. Then as the coolant reaches proper temperature, the
shutters start to open. Two methods are used to control the shutter opening. A
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-12
stationary engine uses a shutterstat (long thermostatic valve) connected to the engine
cooling system with hoses or pipes that allow the coolant to circulate through the valve.
The temperature of the coolant, when it reaches a predetermined temperature, causes
the valve to expand, extending a rod which through linkage forces the shutters open.
Trucks equipped with an air brake use a smaller thermostatic valve that actuates an air
valve. This air valve allows pressure from the air tank to enter the air cylinder attached
to the shutter-operating mechanism, forcing the shutters open.

1.2.7 Expansion (Recovery) Tank

Many cooling systems have a separate coolant reservoir or expansion tank, also called
the recovery tank. It is partly filled with coolant and is connected to the overflow tube
from the radiator filler neck. The coolant in the engine expands as the engine heats up.
Instead of dripping out of the overflow tube onto the ground and being lost out of the
system completely, the coolant flows into the expansion tank.
When the engine cools, a vacuum is created in the cooling system. The vacuum siphons
some of the coolant back into the radiator from the expansion tank. In effect, a cooling
system with an expansion tank is a closed cooling system (Figure 6-8). Coolant can flow
back and forth between the radiator and the expansion tank. This occurs as the coolant
expands and contracts from the heating and cooling. Under normal conditions, no
coolant is lost. Coolant is added in this system through the expansion tank that is
marked for proper coolant level. NEVER remove the cap located on the radiator unless
you are positive the system is cold. If there is any pressure in the radiator, it will spray

Figure 6-8 - Expansion recovery tank.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-13

you with hot steam and coolant. Use extreme caution whenever you work around a
closed cooling system.
An advantage to the use of an expansion tank is that it eliminates almost all air bubbles
from the cooling system. Coolant without bubbles absorbs heat better. Although the
coolant level in the expansion tank goes up and down, the radiator and cooling system
are kept full. This results in maximum cooling efficiency.

1.2.8 Temperature Gauge and Warning Light

The operator should be warned if the temperature of the coolant in the cooling system
goes too high. For this reason, a temperature gauge or warning light is installed in the
instrument panel of the vehicle. An abnormal heat rise is a warning of abnormal
conditions in the engine. The warning lights alert the operator to stop the vehicle before
serious engine damage can occur. Temperature gauges are of two general types-the
balancing-coil (magnetic) type and the bimetal thermostat (thermal) type.
The balancing-coil consists of two coils and an armature to which a pointer is attached.
An engine-sending unit that changes resistance with temperature is placed in the
engine so that the end of the unit is in the coolant. When the engine is cold, only a small
amount of current is allowed to flow through the right coil; the left coil has more
magnetism than the right coil. The pointer, attached to the armature, moves left indicating
that the engine is cold. As the engine warms up, the sending unit passes more current.
More current flows through the right coil, creating a stronger magnetic field. Therefore,
the pointer moves to the right to indicate a higher coolant temperature.
The bimetal-thermostat is similar to the balancing-coil type except for the use of a
bimetal thermostat in the gauge. This thermostat is linked to the pointer. As the sending
unit warms up and passes more current, the thermostat heats up and bends. This
causes the pointer to swing to the right to indicate that the engine coolant temperature
is rising.
A temperature warning light informs the operator when the vehicle is overheating. When
the engine coolant becomes too hot, a sending unit in the engine block closes,
completing the circuit and the dash indicating light comes ON. The indicating light warns
of an overheating condition about 5°F to 10°F below coolant boiling point.
In some construction equipment a "prove-out" circuit is incorporated in the system.
When the ignition switch is turned from OFF to RUN, the light comes on, proving that
the system is operating. If the light does not come on, either the bulb is burned out or
the sending unit or connecting wire is defective. The light will go out normally after the
engine starts.

1.2.9 Coolants and Antifreeze

Since water is easily obtained, cheap, and able to transfer heat readily, it has served as
a basic coolant for many years. Some properties of water, such as its boiling point,
freezing point, and natural corrosive action on metals, limit its usefulness as a coolant.
To counteract this, use antifreeze.
Antifreeze, usually ethylene glycol, is mixed with water to produce the engine coolant.
Antifreeze has several functions:
• Prevents winter freeze up, which can cause serious damage to the engine and
cooling system.
• Prevents rust and corrosion by providing a protective film on the metal surfaces.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-14

 • Lubricates the water pump, which increases the service life of the pump and
seals.
• Cools the engine; prevents overheating in hot weather.
For ideal cooling and winter protection, a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water is
recommended. It will provide protection from ice formation to about -35°F. Higher ratios
of antifreeze produce even lower freezing temperatures; for example, a 60/40 mixture
will protect the cooling system to about -62°F. However, this much protection is not
normally needed.
A mixture of antifreeze and water also raises the boiling point of water. A 50/50 mixture
has about an 11oF higher boiling point over just plain water. A mixture of up to a 70/30
can be used in severe climates.

WARNING
Ethylene glycol is a toxic material. Avoid prolonged skin contact or accidental ingestion.
Wear protective gloves and goggles while handling antifreeze and coolants.

1.3.0 Servicing the Liquid-Cooled System

A cooling system is extremely important to the performance and service life of the
engine. Major engine damage could occur in a matter of minutes without proper cooling
because combustion heat collects in metal engine parts. This heat can melt pistons,
crack or warp the cylinder head or block, and cause valves to burn or the head gasket to
"blow." To prevent these costly problems, keep the cooling system in good condition.
As a mechanic, you must be able to locate and correct cooling system problems quickly
and accurately. It is equally important that you know how to service a cooling system.

1.3.1 Flushing the System

The original additives in antifreeze fight rust and corrosion breakdown but are ineffective
after 1 to 2 years. This is because of the continual exposure to the heat in the cooling
system. After the additives break down, rust rapidly begins to form. Therefore, rust-
colored antifreeze is an indication that the cooling system service is required.
The cooling system should be cleaned periodically to remove rust, scale, grease, oil,
and any acids formed by exhaust-gas leakage into the coolant.
Flushing (cleaning) of a cooling system should be done based on the manufacturer's
recommendations or when rust and other contaminants are found in the system.
Flushing involves running water or a cleaning chemical through the cooling system to
wash out contaminants. Rust is very harmful to the cooling system because it causes
premature water pump wear and can collect and clog the radiator or heater core tubes.
There are three methods of flushing - fast flushing, reverse flushing, and chemical
flushing.
Fast flushing is a common method of cleaning a cooling system because the thermostat
does not have to be removed from the engine. A water hose is connected to a heater
hose fitting. The radiator cap is removed and the petcock is opened. When the water
hose is ON and water flows through the system, loose rust and scale are removed.
Reverse flushing of a radiator requires a special flushing gun device that is connected to
the radiator outlet tank by a piece of hose (Figure 6-9). Another hose is attached to the
inlet tank so the water and debris can be directed to the floor drains. Compressed air
under low pressure is used to force water through the radiator core backwards. The air
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-15
 Figure 6-9 - Reverse flushing of Figure 6-10 - Reverse flushing
a radiator. of a water jacket.
pressure is used intermittently to loosen scale and sediment. Excessive air pressure
should be avoided to prevent damage to the radiator; therefore, it should not be used on
radiators with plastic tanks. Starting and stopping the water flow produces a fluctuation
in pressure and tends to loosen all foreign matter clinging to the passages in the
radiator core.
Reverse flushing can also be used on the engine block and head (Figure 6-10). First,
remove the thermostat and disconnect the upper radiator hose. Then disconnect the
lower radiator hose at the water pump. Insert the flushing equipment in the upper
radiator hose. Reverse flush the system by sending water and air through the water
jackets and coolant passages. Following the flushing, replace the thermostat and hoses
so the system can be refilled.
When reverse flushing equipment is not available, you can still reverse flush the system
with a garden hose. This is often effective following the use of a chemical cleaner.
Chemical flushing is needed when a scale buildup in the system is causing engine
overheating. Add the chemical cleaner to the coolant. Run the engine at fast idle for
about 20 minutes. Wait for the engine to cool. Then drain out the coolant and cleaner
solution. Using a garden hose, flush out the loosened rust and scale. Continue to flush
until the water runs clear.

CAUTION
Always follow manufacturer's instructions when using a cooling system cleaning agent.
Wear protective gloves and goggles when handling cleaning agents. Chemicals may
cause eye and skin burns.

1.3.2 Antifreeze Service

Antifreeze should be checked and changed at regular intervals. After prolonged use,
antifreeze will break down and become very corrosive. It can lose its rust preventative
properties and the cooling system can fill rapidly with rust.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-16

A visual inspection of the antifreeze will help determine its condition. Rub your fingers
inside the radiator filler neck. Check for rust, oil (internal engine leak), scale, or
transmission fluid (leaking oil cooler).
Also check to find out how long the antifreeze has been in service. If contaminated or
too old, replace the antifreeze. If badly rusted, you may need to flush the system.
Antifreeze should be changed when contaminated or when 2 years old. Check the
service manual for exact change schedules.
Antifreeze strength is a measurement of the concentration of antifreeze compared to
water. It determines the freeze-up protection of the solution. There are two devices used
to check antifreeze strength-the antifreeze hydrometer and the refractometer.
• The antifreeze hydrometer is used to measure the freezing point of the cooling
system. A squeeze and release bulb draws coolant into the tester, and a needle
floats to show the freeze protection point.
• With the refractometer, you draw coolant into the tester. Then you place a few
drops of coolant on the measuring window (surface). Aim the tester at a light and
view through the tester sight. The scale in the refractometer indicates the freeze
protection point.
Minimum antifreeze strength should be several degrees lower than the lowest possible
temperature for the climate of the area. For example, if the lowest normal temperature
for the area is 10°F, the antifreeze should test to -20°F. A 50/50 mixture of antifreeze
and water is commonly used to provide protection for most weather conditions.

CAUTION
Vehicles using an aluminum cooling system and engine parts can be corroded by some
types of antifreeze. Use only antifreeze designed for aluminum components. Check the
vehicle's service manual or antifreeze label for details.

1.4.0 Cooling System Tests

It is often necessary to check the cooling system for cooling system problems, which
can be grouped into three general categories:
• Coolant leaks-crack or rupture, allowing pressure cap action to push coolant out of
the system.
• Overheating-engine operating temperature too high, warning light on,
temperature gauge shows hot, or coolant and steam are blowing out the
overflow.
• Overcooling-engine fails to reach full operating temperature, engine
performance poor or sluggish.
To diagnose and repair cooling system problems, perform several tests. These tests
include the cooling system pressure test, combustion leak test, thermostat test, engine
fan test, and fan belt test.

1.4.1 Cooling System Pressure Test

A cooling system pressure test is used to locate leaks quickly. Low air pressure is
forced into the system, causing coolant to pour or drip from any leak in the system.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-17

A pressure tester is a hand-operated air pump used to pressurize the system for leak
detection. Install the pressure tester on the radiator filler neck. Then pump the tester
until the pressure gauge reads radiator cap pressure.

WARNING
Do not pump too much pressure into the cooling system or damage may result.
With pressure in the system, inspect all parts for coolant leakage. Check at all fittings, at
gaskets, under the water pump, around the radiator, and at engine freeze (core) plugs.
Once the leak is located, tighten, repair, or replace parts as needed.
A pressure test can also be applied to the radiator cap. The radiator pressure test
measures cap-opening pressure and checks the condition of the sealing washer. The
cap is installed on the cooling system pressure tester.
Pump the tester to pressurize the cap. Watch the pressure gauge. The cap should
release pressure at its rated pressure (pressure stamped on cap). It should also hold
that pressure for at least 1 minute. If not, install a new cap.

1.4.2 Combustion Leak Test

A combustion leak test is designed to check for the presence of combustion gases in
the engine coolant. It should be performed when signs (overheating, bubbles in the
coolant, or a rise in coolant level upon starting) point to a blown head gasket, cracked
block, or cracked cylinder head.
A block tester, often called a combustion leak tester, is placed in the radiator filler neck.
The engine is started and the test bulb is squeezed and then released. This will pull air
from the radiator through the test fluid.
The fluid in the block tester is normally blue. The chemicals in the exhaust gases cause
a reaction in the test fluid, changing its color. A combustion leak will turn the fluid yellow.
If the fluid remains blue, there is no combustion leak.
Combustion leakage into the cooling system is very damaging. Exhaust gases mix with
the coolant and form corrosive acids. The acids can cause holes in the radiator and
corrode other components.
An exhaust gas analyzer will also detect combustion pressure leakage into the coolant.
Place the analyzer probe over the filler neck and accelerate the engine. The probe will
pick up any hydrocarbons (HC) leaking from the system, which indicates combustion
leakage.

1.4.3 Thermostat Test

To check thermostat action, watch the coolant through the radiator neck. When the
engine is cold, coolant should not flow through the radiator. When the engine warms,
the thermostat should open. Coolant should begin to circulate through the radiator. If
this action does not occur, the thermostat may be defective.
There are several ways to test a thermostat. The most common is to suspend the
thermostat in a container of water together with a high-temperature thermometer. Then
by heating the container on a stove or hot plate, you can determine the temperature at
which the thermostat begins to open, as well as when it is full open. If the thermostat
fails to respond at specified temperatures, it should be discarded. Specifications vary on
different thermostats. For example, for a thermostat with an opening temperature of

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-18

180°F to 185°F, the full-open temperature is 200°F to 202°F. If the test is satisfactory,
the thermostat can be reinstalled.
You can also use a digital thermometer to check the operating temperature of an engine
and thermostat. Simply touch the tester probe on the engine next to the thermostat
housing and note its reading. If the thermostat does not open at the correct
temperature, it is defective and should be replaced.
The use of a temperature stick is another way to test a thermostat quickly. The
temperature stick is a pencil-like device that contains a wax material containing certain
chemicals that melt at a given temperature. Using two sticks (one for opening
temperature and the other for full-open temperature), rub the sticks on the thermostat
housing. As the coolant warms to operating temperature, the wax-like marks will melt. If
the marks do not melt, the thermostat is defective and needs to be replaced.

1.4.4 Engine Fan Test

A faulty engine fan can cause overheating, overcooling, vibration, and water pump wear
or damage. Testing the fan ensures that it is operating properly.
To test a thermostatic fan clutch, start the engine. The fan should slip when cold; as the
engine warms up, the clutch should engage. Air should begin to flow through the
radiator and over the engine. You will be able to hear and feel the air when the fan
clutch locks up.
If the fan clutch is locked all the time (cold or hot), it is defective and must be replaced.
Excessive play or oil leakage also indicates fan clutch failure.
When testing an electric cooling fan, observe whether the fan turns ON when the engine
is warm. Make sure the fan motor is spinning at normal speed and forcing enough air
through the radiator.
If the fan does not function, check the fuse, electrical connections, and supply voltage to
the motor. If the fan motor fails to operate with voltage applied, replace it.
If the engine is warm and no voltage is supplied to the fan motor, check the action of the
fan switch. Use either a voltmeter or test light. The switch should have almost zero
resistance (pass current and voltage) when the engine is warm. Resistance should be
infinite (stop current and voltage) when the engine is cold.
If these tests do not locate the trouble with the electric cooling fan, refer to the
manufacturer's service manual for instructions. There may be a defective relay,
connection, or other problem.

1.5.0 Service and Repair of Cooling System Components

The individual components of the cooling system which require servicing and repair
include the water pump, thermostat, hoses, fan and fan belt, and the radiator and
pressure cap. Proper service of the components ensures an efficient cooling system
and extends the life of the vehicle.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-19

1.5.1 Water Pump
A water pump (Figure 6-11) is required in
order to maintain proper operating
temperature within an engine. A bad water
pump may leak coolant, fail to circulate
coolant, or produce a grinding sound. Rust in
the cooling system or lack of antifreeze is the
most common causes for pump failure.
These conditions can accelerate seal, shaft,
and bearing wear. An over-tightened fan belt
will also cause water pump failure.
To check for a worn water pump seal,
pressure test the system and watch for
coolant leakage. Coolant will leak out of the
small drain hole at the bottom of the pump or
at the end of the pump shaft.
Figure 6-11 - Water pump.
Worn water pump bearings are checked by
wiggling the fan or pump pulley up and down. If the pump shaft is loose in its housing,
the pump bearings are badly worn. A stethoscope can also be used to listen for worn,
noisy water pump bearings.
Water pump action can be checked with a warm engine. Squeeze the top radiator hose
while someone starts the engine. You should feel a pressure surge (hose swelling) if the
pump is working. If not, pump shaft or impeller problems are indicated. You can also
watch for coolant circulation in the radiator with the engine at operating temperature.
Whether a defective pump is replaced or rebuilt depends on parts supply and cost. A
water pump rebuild involves disassembly, cleaning, part inspection, worn part
replacement, and reassembly. Few mechanics rebuild water pumps because rebuilding
takes too much time and is not cost effective.
The removal and installation of the water pump varies with different vehicles. Therefore,
consult the applicable shop manual for the step-by-step procedures.
When you replace a pump, install a new gasket. Make sure the mating surfaces are
clean and smooth. The application of a gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket is
recommended. Then, after refilling the cooling system, check the pump for leaks, noise,
and proper operation.

1.5.2 Thermostat
There are no repairs or adjustments to be made on the thermostat. The unit must be
replaced when it fails to operate properly. A stuck thermostat can cause either engine
overheating or overcooling.
If a thermostat is stuck closed, coolant will not circulate through the radiator. As a result,
overheating could make the coolant boil.
When a thermostat is stuck open, too much coolant may circulate through the radiator
and the engine may not reach proper operating temperature. The engine may run poorly
for extended periods in cold weather. Engine efficiency (power, fuel mileage, and
drivability) will be reduced.
The procedure for thermostat replacement is as follows:

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-20

 • To remove the thermostat, drain the coolant and remove the upper radiator hose
from the engine.
• Remove the retaining cap screws holding the thermostat housing to the engine.
Tap the housing free with a rubber hammer. Lift off the housing and thermostat.
• Scrape all of the old gasket material off the thermostat housing and sealing
surface of the engine.
• Make sure that the housing is not warped. Place it on a flat surface and check
the gaps between the housing and the surface. If warped, file the surface flat.
This action will prevent coolant leakage.
• Make sure the temperature rating is correct. Then place the thermostat into the
engine. Normally, the pointed end on the thermostat should face the radiator
hose. The pellet chamber should face the inside of the engine.
• Position the new gasket with approved sealer. Start the cap screws by hand.
Then torque them to the manufacturer's specifications in an alternating pattern.
DO NOT over tighten the housing bolts, or warpage and/or breakage may result.
Most housings are made of soft aluminum or "pot metal."

1.5.3 Hoses
Old radiator hoses and heater hoses are
frequent causes of cooling system
problems. Hoses (Figure 6-12) should be
checked periodically for leakage and
general condition. The leakage may often be
corrected by tightening or replacing hose
clamps. After a few years of use, hoses
deteriorate. They may become soft and
mushy, or hard and brittle. Deteriorated
hoses should be replaced to prevent future
troubles. Cooling system pressure can
rupture the hoses and result in coolant loss.
Inspect the radiator and heater hoses for
cracks, bulges, cuts, or any other sign of
deterioration. Squeeze the hoses to check
whether they are hardened, softened, or
Figure 6-12 - Radiator and
faulty. Flex or bend heater hoses and watch
heater hoses.
for signs of surface cracks. If any problem
is detected, replace the affected hose. However, where spiral spring stiffeners are used
to control the tendency to collapse, such tests will not work and the hose must be
removed for inspection.

1.5.4 Fan and Belt

One of the easiest and quickest checks to the cooling system is inspecting the fan and
fan belt (Figure 6-13). Check the fan for bent blades, cracks, and other problems. A
bent or distorted fan or one with a loose blade should be replaced. Where the fan is just
loose on its mounting, tightening is in order.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-21

Fan belts, or drive belts, should be checked
for wear and tension. Most wear occurs on
the underside of the belt. To check a V-belt,
twist the belt with your fingers. Check for
small cracks, grease, glazing, and tears or
splits. Small cracks will enlarge as the belt is
flexed. Grease rots the rubber and makes
the side slick so that the belt slips easily. A
high-pitched squeal results from slippage.
Large tears or splits in a belt allow it to be
tossed from the pulley. On vehicles with a
set of two belts, replace both if one is worn
and requires replacement.
Use a belt tension gauge to check and
adjust the fan belt tension. When you do not
have a gauge or if space does not allow use
of a gauge, you can make a quick check of
Figure 6-13 - Fan and belt.
belt tension. Press down on the free span of
the belt, a point midway between the alternator or generator pulley and the fan pulley.
Measure the amount of deflection. When free span is less than 12 inches between
pulleys, belt deflection should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch. When free span is longer than 12
inches, belt deflection should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
A slipping belt can cause overheating and a rundown battery. These troubles result
because a slipping belt cannot drive the water pump and alternator fast enough for
normal operation. Sometimes a belt will slip and make noise even after it is adjusted to
the proper tension. Several types of belt dressing are available which can be applied to
both sides of the belt to prevent this problem. Belt dressing helps to eliminate noise and
increase belt friction.
Check the fan belt every time a vehicle comes in for preventive maintenance (PM) to
make sure it is in good condition. Replace a fan belt that has become frayed or has
separated plies.
You can usually replace a defective belt by loosening the alternator or generator
mounting bolts. With the mounting bolts loose, push the alternator or generator closer to
the engine. This action provides enough slack in the belt so it can be removed and a
new one installed. After installing a new belt, adjust it to the proper tension and tighten
the mounting bolts.

1.5.5 Radiator and Pressure Cap

When overheating problems occur and the system is not leaking, check the radiator and
pressure cap. They are common sources of overheating. The pressure cap could have
bad seals, allowing pressure loss. The radiator could be clogged and preventing
adequate air flow or coolant flow.
Straighten bent fins and check the radiator core for any obstructions tending to restrict
the airflow. You can clean radiator air passages by blowing them out with an air hose in
the direction opposite to the ordinary flow of air. You can also use water to soften
obstructions before applying the air blast. In any event, the cleaning gets rid of dirt,
bugs, leaves, straw, and other debris which otherwise would clog the radiator and
reduce its cooling efficiency. Sometimes screens are used in front of the radiator core to
reduce this type of clogging.
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-22
You can check the radiator for internal clogging by removing the hose connections and
draining the coolant. Use a garden hose to introduce a stream of water into the top of
the radiator. If the flow is sluggish, the radiator is partially clogged. Another way to
check for this condition is to feel the radiator with your hand. The radiator should be
warm at the bottom and hot at the top, with the temperature uniformly increasing from
bottom to top. Any clogged sections will feel cool.

CAUTION
Be sure that the engine is off to avoid injury from the fan.
When the use of cleaning compounds and reverse flushing fail to relieve a clogged
core, you must remove the radiator for mechanical cleaning. This requires the removal
of the radiator tanks and rodding out the accumulated rust and scale from the water
passages of the core.
You should also check the radiator pressure cap for condition and proper operation. If it
is dirty, you can clean the cap with soap and water, and then rinse it. The seating
surface of the vacuum and pressure valves should be smooth and undamaged. The
valves should operate freely when pressed against their spring pressure and should
seal properly when closed.
During the vehicle's preventive maintenance (PM) inspection, you should check the
radiator for leaks, particularly where the tanks are soldered to the core, since vibration
and pulsation from pressure can cause fatigue of soldered joints or seams. Neglect of
small leaks may result in complete radiator failure, excessive leakage, rust clogging,
and overheating. Thus it is extremely important to keep the radiator mounting properly
adjusted and tight at all times and to detect and correct even the smallest leaks.
A leak usually reveals its presence by scale marks or watermarks below the leak on the
outside of the core. Permanent antifreeze does not leak through spaces where water
cannot pass. The antifreeze leak is more noticeable, since it does not evaporate as
quickly as water.
Stop-leak compounds can be effective to stop small leaks, at least temporarily. Stop-
leak compounds harden upon contact with the air, thus sealing off any small openings.
The main problem is that they give the mechanic a sense of false security. For example,
stop leak may prevent seepage at a hose connection through the inner lining, but finally
the hose will rot and burst, losing coolant and overheating the engine.
Stop-leak compounds can lead to radiator clogging if water tubes already contain
deposits that act as a strainer. If coolant level gets too low, some stop-leak ingredients
may harden in the upper radiator and block it.
Before using stop leak, check your service manual. The compound must be compatible
with the antifreeze and the inhibitors and be installed correctly and in the right quantity.
When large leaks or considerable damage is present, removal of the radiator for
extensive repair or replacement is usually required.
Test your Knowledge (Select the Correct Response)
1. When replacing antifreeze, what is the recommended mixture?

A. 70/30
B. 60/40
C. 50/50
D. 40/60
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-23
2. Where is the automatic transmission oil cooler located?

A. In front of the radiator

B. In the radiator
C. In line with the radiator
D. In the transmission

2.0.0 ENGINE LUBRICATING SYSTEMS

All internal combustion engines
are equipped with an internal
lubricating system (Figure 6-14).
Without lubrication, an engine
quickly overheats and its
working parts seize due to
excessive friction. All moving
parts must be adequately
lubricated to assure maximum
wear and long engine life.
2.1.0 Purposes of
Lubrication
The functions of an engine
lubrication system are as
follows:
• Reduces friction and wear
between moving parts
(Figure 6-15).
• Helps transfer heat and
cool engine parts. Figure 6-14 - Engine lubrication system.

• Cleans the inside of the

engine by removing contaminants
(metal, dirt, plastic, rubber, and other
particles).
• Absorbs shocks between moving
parts to quiet engine operation and
increase engine life.
The properties of engine oil and the design
of modern engines allow the lubrication
system to accomplish these functions.
2.2.0 Engine Oil
Engine oil, also called motor oil, is used to
produce a lubricating film on the moving
parts in an engine. The military specification
for this type of oil prescribes that the oil
Figure 6-15 - How oil lubricates.
should be petroleum or a synthetic
petroleum product, or a combination thereof.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-24

This oil is intended for lubrication of internal-combustion engines other than aircraft
engines or for general-purpose lubrication.

2.2.1 Oil Viscosity and Measurements

Oil viscosity, also called oil weight, is the thickness or fluidity (flow ability) of the oil. High
viscosity oil is very thick and resists flow. A low viscosity oil is very thin and flows easily.
Oils are graded according to their viscosity by a series of Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) numbers. The viscosity of the oil increases progressively with the SAE
number. An SAE 4 oil would be very light (low viscosity) and SAE 90 oil would be very
heavy (high viscosity). The viscosity of the oil used in internal-combustion engines
ranges from SAE 5 (arctic use) to SAE 60 (desert use). It should be noted that the SAE
number of the oil has nothing to do with the quality of the oil.
The viscosity number of the oil is determined by heating the oil to a predetermined
temperature and allowing it to flow through a precisely sized orifice while measuring the
rate of flow. The faster an oil flows, the lower the viscosity. The testing device is called a
viscosimeter. The viscosity of the oil is printed on top of the oil can. Oil viscosity is
written SAE 10, SAE 20, SAE 30, and so on. The letter W will follow any oil that meets
SAE low-temperature requirements. An example would be SAE 10W.
Multi-viscosity oil or multi-weight oil has the operating characteristics of a thin, light oil
when cold and a thicker, heavy oil when hot. A multi-weight oil is numbered SAE 10W-
30, 10W-40, 20W-50, and so on. For example, a 10W-30 oil will flow easily (like 10W
oil) when starting a cold engine. It will then act as a thicker oil (like 30 weight) when the
engine warms to operating temperature. This will make the engine start more easily in
cold weather. It will also provide adequate film strength (thickness) when the engine is
at full operating temperature.
Normally, you should use the oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer. However,
in a very cold, high mileage, worn engine, higher viscosity may be beneficial. Thicker oil
will tend to seal the rings and provide better bearing protection. It may also help cut
engine oil consumption and smoking.

2.2.2 Oil Service Rating

The oil service rating is a set of letters printed on the oil can to denote how well the oil
will perform under operating conditions. The American Petroleum Institute (API) sets
this performance standard.
The API system for rating oil classifies oil according to its performance characteristics.
The higher rated oils contain additives that provide maximum protection against rust,
wear, oil oxidation, and thickening at high temperatures. Oils designed for gasoline
engines fall under the "S" categories as shown in Table 6-1.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-25

 Table 6-1 - System rating of oils designed for gasoline engines.
Category Status Service
Adequate for utility engines subjected to light loads, moderate
speeds, and clean conditions. Straight mineral oil. Contains no
SA Obsolete
additives. For older engines, use only when specifically
recommended by the manufacturer.
Adequate for automotive use under favorable conditions (light loads,
low speeds, and moderate temperatures) with relatively short oil
SB Obsolete change intervals. Generally offers only minimal protection to the
engine against bearing scuffing, corrosion, and oil oxidation. Use
only when specifically recommended by the manufacturer.

SC Obsolete For 1964 through 1967 automotive gasoline engines.

Obsolete For 1968 through 1970 automotive gasoline engines. Offers
SD additional protection over SC oils that are necessary with the
introduction of emission controls.
For 1972 through 1979 automotive gasoline engines. Stricter
SE Obsolete
emission requirements created the need for this detergent oil.
For 1980 through 1988 automotive gasoline engines. The SF oil is
SF Obsolete
designed to meet the demands of small, high-revving engines.
SG Obsolete For 1989 through 1993 automotive gasoline engines.

SH Obsolete For 1994 through 1996 automotive gasoline engines.

Current For 1997 through 2001 automotive gasoline engines.
SJ
Current For 2001 through 2003 automotive gasoline engines.
SL
For 2004 through present automotive gasoline engines. Designed to
SM Current provide a superior resistance to oxidation and provide better engine
wear.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-26

Oils designed for diesel engines fall under the "C" category as shown in Table 6-2.

Table 6-2 - System rating of oils designed for diesel engines.

CA Obsolete For naturally aspirated diesel engines operated on low sulfur fuel,
mainly used in the 1940s and 1950s.

CB Obsolete For naturally aspirated diesel engines operated on high sulfur fuel
used in the 1950s.
CC Obsolete For lightly supercharged diesel engines, introduced in 1961.

CD Obsolete For moderately supercharged diesel engines, introduced in 1955.

For two-stroke cycle diesel engines.
CD-II Obsolete
Meets requirements of API Service category CD.
For moderately supercharged diesel engines, introduced in 1983.
CE Obsolete Typical for high load and high speed, also meets requirements of
API Service category CD.

Current For indirect-injection diesel engines that use a broad range of

CF
diesel fuel, may be used when category CD is recommended.

Current For severe duty two-stroke cycle diesel engines, may be used
CF-2
when category CD-II is recommended.
For high-speed four-stroke cycle naturally aspirated and
CF-4 Obsolete turbocharged diesel engines, may be used when category CD and
CE are recommended.
For severe duty, high-speed four-stroke cycle with less than 0.5%
CG-4 Obsolete weight sulfur, may be used when category CD, CE and CF-4 are
recommended.
For high-speed four-stroke cycle with less than 0.5% weight sulfur
CH-4 Current to meet 1988 emissions, may be used when category CD, CE, CF-
4 and CG-4 are recommended.
For high-speed four-stroke cycle with less than 0.5% weight sulfur
to meet 2004 emissions where EGR is used, may be used when
CI-4 Current category CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4 and CH-4 are recommended. Some
CI-4 oils qualify for the PLUS designation by providing a higher
level protection soot-related viscosity break down.
For high-speed four-stroke cycle with less than 0.05% weight
Current sulfur to meet 2007, may be used when category CD, CE, CF-4,
CJ-4
CG-4 and CH-4 are recommended. CJ-4 oils exceed the
performance criteria of CI-4, CI-4 PLUS, CF-4, CH-4, and CG-4.

The operator's manual provides the service rating recommended for a specific vehicle.
You can use a better service rating than recommended, but NEVER a lower service
rating. A high service rating (SM, for example) can withstand higher temperatures and

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-27

loads while still maintaining a lubricating film. It will have more oil additives to prevent oil
oxidation, engine deposits, breakdown, foaming, and other problems.

2.3.0 Lubricating (Oil) System Components

You must remember that the lubricating system is actually an integral part of the engine
and the operation of one depends upon the operation of the other. Thus the lubricating
system, in actual practice, cannot be considered as a separate and independent
system; it is part of the engine. The lubricating system basically consists of the
following:
• Oil pump-forces oil throughout the system.
• Oil pickup and strainers-carries oil to the pump and removes large particles.
• Pressure relief valve-limits maximum oil pressure.
• Oil filter-strains out impurities in the oil.
• Oil cooler-provides cooling for the oil system.
• Oil pan-reservoir or storage area for engine oil.
• Oil level gauge-checks the amount of oil in the oil pan.
• Oil galleries-oil passages through the engine.
• Oil pressure indicator-warns the operator of low oil pressure.
• Oil pressure gauge-registers actual oil pressure in the engine.
• Oil temperature regulator-controls engine oil temperature on diesel engines.

2.3.1 Oil Pump

The oil pump is the heart of the lubricating
system; it forces oil out of the oil pan, through
the oil filter and galleries, and to the engine
bearings. Normally, a gear on the engine
camshaft drives the oil pump; however, a
cogged belt or a direct connection with the
end of the camshaft or crankshaft drives the
pump in some cases.
There are two basic types of oil pumps-
rotary and gear.
The rotary pump has an inner rotor with lobes
that match similar shaped depressions in the
outer rotor (Figure 6-16). The inner rotor is off
center from the outer rotor.
As the oil pump shaft turns, the inner rotor Figure 6-16 - Rotary oil pump.
causes the outer rotor to spin. The eccentric
action of the two rotors forms pockets that change size. A large pocket is formed on the
inlet side of the pump. As the rotors turn, the oil-filled pocket becomes smaller as it
nears the outlet of the pump. This action squeezes the oil and makes it spurt out under
pressure. As the pump spins, this action is repeated over and over to produce a
relatively smooth flow of oil.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-28

The gear pump consists of two pump gears
mounted within a close-fitting housing
(Figure 6-17). A shaft, usually turned by the
distributor, crankshaft, or accessory shaft,
rotates one of the pump gears. The gear
turns the other pump gear that is supported
on a short shaft inside the pump housing.
Oil on the inlet side of the pump is caught in
the gear teeth and carried around the outer
wall inside the pump housing. When oil
reaches the outlet side of the pump, the
gear teeth mesh and seal. Oil caught in
each gear tooth is forced into the pocket at
the pump outlet and pressure is formed. Oil
squirts out of the pump and to the engine
bearings.
As a safety factor to assure sufficient oil Figure 6-17 - Rotary oil pump.
delivery under extreme operating
conditions, the oil pump (gear or rotary) is designed to supply a greater amount of oil
than is normally required for adequate lubrication. This requires that an oil pressure
relief valve be incorporated in the pump to limit maximum oil pressure.

2.3.2 Oil Pickup and Strainer

The oil pickup is a tube that extends from the oil pump to the bottom of the oil pan. One
end of the pickup tube bolts or screws into the oil pump or to the engine block. The
other end holds the strainer.
The strainer has a mesh screen suitable for straining large particles from the oil and yet
passes a sufficient quantity of oil to the inlet side of the oil pump. The strainer is located
so all oil entering the pump from the oil pan must flow through it. Some assemblies also
incorporate a safety valve that opens in the event the strainers become clogged, thus
bypassing oil to the pump. Strainer assemblies may be either the floating or the fixed
type.
The floating strainer has a sealed air chamber, is hinged to the oil pump inlet, and floats
just below the top of the oil. As the oil level changes, the floating intake will rise or fall
accordingly. This action allows all oil taken into the pump to come from the surface. This
design prevents the pump from drawing oil from the bottom of the oil pan where dirt,
water, and sludge are likely to collect. The strainer screen is held to the float by a
holding clip. The up-and-down movement of the float is limited by stops.
The fixed strainer is simply an inverted funnel-like device placed about 1/2 inch to 1 inch
from the bottom of the oil pan (Figure 6-18). This device prevents any sludge or dirt that
has accumulated from entering and circulating through the system. The assembly is
attached solidly to the oil pump in a fixed position.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-29

 Figure 6-18 - Oil pick up and strainer.

2.3.3 Pressure Relief Valve

The pressure relief valve is a spring-loaded bypass valve in the oil pump, engine block,
or oil filter housing. The valve consists of a small piston, spring, and cylinder. Under
normal pressure conditions, the spring holds the relief valve closed. All the oil from the
oil pump flows into the oil galleries and to the bearings.
However, under abnormally high oil pressure conditions (cold, thick oil, for example),
the pressure relief valve opens. Oil pressure pushes the small piston back in its cylinder
by overcoming spring tension. This allows some oil to bypass the main oil galleries and
pour back into the oil pan. Most of the oil still flows to the bearings and a preset
pressure is maintained. Some pressure relief valves are adjustable. By turning a bolt or
screw or by changing spring shim thickness, you can alter the pressure setting.

2.3.4 Oil Filter

The oil filter removes most of the impurities that have been picked up by the oil as it
circulates through the engine. Designed to be replaced readily, the filter is mounted in
an accessible location outside the engine. There are two basic filter element
configurations-the cartridge type and spin-on type.
The cartridge-type element fits into a permanent metal container (Figure 6-19). Oil is
pumped under pressure into the container where it passes from the outside of the filter
element to the center. From here, the oil exits the container. The element is changed
easily by removing the cover from the container.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-30

The spin-on filter is completely self-contained, consisting of an integral metal container
and filter element (Figure 6-19). Oil is pumped into the container on the outside of the
filter element. The oil then passes through the filter medium to the center of the element
where it exits the container. This type of filter is screwed onto its base and is removed
by spinning it off.

Figure 6-19 - Oil filters.

The elements themselves may be either metallic or nonmetallic. Cotton waste and resin-
treated paper are the most popular filter mediums. They are held in place by
sandwiching them between two perforated metal sheets. Some heavy-duty applications
use layers of metal that are thinly spaced apart. Foreign matter is strained out as the oil
passes between the metal layers.
There are two filter configurations: the full-flow system and the bypass system. The
operations of both systems are as follows:
• The full-flow system is the most
common (Figure 6-20). All oil in a
full-flow system is circulated
through the filter before it reaches
the engine. When a full-flow
system is used, it is necessary to
incorporate a bypass valve in the
oil filter to allow the oil to circulate
through the system without
passing through the element in the
event that it becomes clogged.
This prevents the oil supply to the
engine from being cut off.
• The bypass system diverts only a
small quantity of oil each time it is
circulated and returns it directly to Figure 6-20 - Full flow oil
the oil pan after it is filtered. This system.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-31

 type of system does not filter the oil before it is sent to the engine. The oil
from the main oil gallery enters the filter and flows through the filter element. It
then passes into the collector in the center of the filter. The filtered oil then
flows out a restricted outlet, preventing the loss of pressure. The oil then
returns directly to the oil pan.

2.3.5 Oil Cooler

Some engines require an additional oil
cooler (Figure 6-21) to help lower and
control the operating temperature of the
engine oil. It consists of a radiator-like
device, called a heat exchanger, connected
to the lubrication system by the use of an
oil cooler adapter. Oil is pumped through
the cooler before it flows back into the
engine.
The heat exchanger looks like a small
radiator that is fitted onto the vehicle in
front of the radiator. Air flows across the
fins of the heat exchanger, cooling the oil
before it goes back into the engine.
The oil cooler adapter is a device that fits
between the filter and the oil filter housing. Figure 6-21 - Oil cooler.
It provides hose connections for the oil
lines leading to and from the heat exchanger.

2.3.6 Oil Pan

The oil pan is normally made of thin sheet metal of aluminum, and bolts to the bottom of
the engine block. It holds a supply of oil for the lubrication system. The oil pan is fitted
with a screw-in drain plug for oil changes. Baffles may be used to keep the oil from
splashing around in the pan.
The sump is the lowest area in the oil pan where oil collects. As oil drains from the
engine, it fills the sump. Then the oil pump can pull oil out of the pan for recirculation.

2.3.7 Oil Level Gauge

The oil level gauge, also known as a
dipstick, is usually of the bayonet type
(Figure 6-22). It consists of a long rod or
blade that extends into the oil pan. It is
marked to show the level of oil within the oil
pan. Readings are taken by pulling the rod
out from its normal place in the crankcase,
wiping it clean, replacing it, and again
removing and noting the height of the oil on
the lower or marked end. This should be
done with the engine stopped unless the
manufacturer recommends otherwise. It is
important that the oil level not drop below
the low mark or rise above the full mark.
Figure 6-22- Dipstick.
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-32
2.3.8 Oil Galleries
Oil galleries are small passages through the cylinder block and head for lubricating oil.
They are cast or machined passages that allow oil to flow to the engine bearings and
other moving parts.
The main oil galleries are large passages through the center of the block. They feed oil
to the crankshaft bearings, camshaft bearings, and lifters. The main oil galleries also
feed oil to smaller passages running up to the cylinder heads.

2.3.9 Oil Pressure Warning Light

The oil pressure warning light is used in place of a gauge on many vehicles. The
warning light, although not as accurate, is valuable because of its high visibility in the
event of a low oil pressure condition. Because the engine can fail or be damaged in less
than a minute of operation without oil pressure, the warning light is used as a backup for
a gauge to attract instant attention to a malfunction.
The warning light receives battery power through the ignition switch. The circuit to
ground is completed through the oil pressure-sending unit that screws into the engine
and is exposed to one of the oil galleries. The sending unit consists of a pressure-
sensitive diaphragm that operates a set of contact points. The contact points are
calibrated to turn on the warning light anytime oil pressure drops below approximately
15 psi in most vehicles.

2.3.10 Oil Pressure Gauge

The oil pressure gauge is mounted on the instrument panel of a vehicle. Marked off on a
dial in pounds per square inch (psi), the gauge indicates how regularly and evenly the
oil is being delivered to all vital parts of the engine and warns of any stoppages in this
delivery. Pressure gauges may be electrical or mechanical.
In the mechanical type, the gauge on the instrument panel is connected to an oil line
tapped into an oil gallery leading from the pump. The pressure of the oil in the system
acts on a diaphragm within the gauge, causing the needle to register on the dial.
In the electrical type, oil pressure operates a rheostat connected to the engine that
signals electrically to the pressure gauge indicating oil pressure within the system.

2.3.11 Oil Temperature Regulator

The oil temperature regulator must be used in diesel engine lubricating systems. It
prevents oil temperature from rising too high in hot weather, and assists in raising the
temperature during cold starts in winter weather. It provides a more positive means of
controlling oil temperature than does cooling by radiation of heat from the oil pan wells.
The regulator uses engine coolant in the cooling system to regulate the temperature of
the oil and is made up of a core and housing. The core, through which the oil circulates,
is of cellular or bellows construction and is built to expose as much oil as possible to the
coolant that circulates through the housing. The regulator is attached to the engine so
that the oil will flow through the regulator after passing through the pump. As the oil
passes through the regulator, it is either cooled or heated, depending on the
temperature of the coolant, and then is circulated through the engine.

2.4.0 Types of Lubricating (Oil) Systems

Now that you are familiar with the lubricating system components, you are ready to
study the different systems that circulate oil through the engine. The systems used to
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-33
circulate oil are known as splash, combination splash force feed, force feed, full force
feed, and dry sump.

2.4.1 Splash
The splash system is no longer used in
automotive engines. It is widely used in
small four-cycle engines for lawn
mowers, outboard marine operation, and
so on.
In the splash lubricating system, oil is
splashed up from the oil pan or oil trays
in the lower part of the crankcase (Figure
6-23). The oil is thrown upward as
droplets or fine mist and provides
adequate lubrication to valve
mechanisms, piston pins, cylinder walls,
and piston rings.
In the engine, dippers on the connecting-
rod bearing caps enter the oil pan with
each crankshaft revolution to produce the
oil splash. A passage is drilled in each Figure 6-23- Splash type oil
connecting rod from the dipper to the system.
bearing to ensure lubrication.
This system is too uncertain for automotive applications. One reason is that the level of
oil in the crankcase will greatly vary the amount of lubrication received by the engine. A
high level results in excess lubrication and oil consumption, and a slightly low level
results in inadequate lubrication and failure of the engine.

2.4.2 Force Fed

A somewhat more complete pressurization of lubrication is achieved in the force feed
lubrication system (Figure 6-24). Oil is forced by the oil pump from the crankcase to the
main bearings and the camshaft bearings. Unlike the combination system, the
connecting-rod bearings are also fed oil under pressure from the pump.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-34

Oil passages are drilled in the crankshaft to lead oil to the connecting-rod bearings. The
passages deliver oil from the main bearing journals to the rod bearing journals. In some

Figure 6-24 - Force fed oil system.

engines, these opening are holes that line up once for every crankshaft revolution. In
other engines, there are annular grooves in the main bearings through which oil can
feed constantly into the hole in the crankshaft.
The pressurized oil that lubricates the connecting rod bearings goes on to lubricate the
pistons and walls by squirting out through strategically drilled holes. This lubrication
system is used in virtually all engines that are equipped with semi-floating piston pins.

2.4.3 Combination Splash and Force Fed

In a combination splash and force feed, oil is delivered to some parts by means of
splashing and to other parts through oil passages under pressure from the oil pump
(Figure 6-25).

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-35

 Figure 6-25 - Combination splash and force fed oil system.

The oil from the pump enters the oil galleries. From the oil galleries, it flows to the main
bearings and camshaft bearings. The main bearings have oil-feed holes or grooves that
feed oil into drilled passages in the crankshaft. The oil flows through these passages to
the connecting rod bearings. From there, on some engines, it flows through holes drilled
in the connecting rods to the piston-pin bearings.
Cylinder walls are lubricated by splashing oil thrown off from the connecting-rod
bearings. Some engines use small troughs under each connecting rod that are kept full
by small nozzles which deliver oil under pressure from the oil pump. These oil nozzles
deliver an increasingly heavy stream as speed increases. At very high speeds these oil
streams are powerful enough to strike the dippers directly. This causes a much heavier
splash so that adequate lubrication of the pistons and the connecting-rod bearings is
provided at higher speeds.
If a combination system is used on an overhead valve engine, the upper valve train is
lubricated by pressure from the pump.

2.4.4 Full Force Fed

In a full force feed lubrication system, the main bearings, rod bearings, camshaft
bearings, and the complete valve mechanism are lubricated by oil under pressure. In
addition, the full force feed lubrication system provides lubrication under pressure to the
pistons and the piston pins. This is accomplished by holes drilled the length of the
connecting rod, creating an oil passage from the connecting rod bearing to the piston
pin bearing. This passage not only feeds the piston pin bearings but also provides
lubrication for the pistons and cylinder walls. This system is used in virtually all engines
that are equipped with full-floating piston pins.

2.4.5 Dry Sump

The dry sump lubrication system uses two oil pumps and a separate oil reservoir. No oil
is stored in the oil pan itself. The main pump pulls oil from the reservoir and pushes it
into the engine bearings and other high-friction points. The second pump, called the
scavenge pump, pulls oil out of the pan and sends it to the oil reservoir.
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-36
These types of systems are found on exotic high-performance cars. Because there is no
oil in the oil pan, engine horsepower and dependability are increased.

2.5.0 Lubricating System Problem Diagnosis

To troubleshoot an engine lubricating system, begin by gathering information on the
problem. Ask the operator questions. Analyze the symptoms using your understanding
of system operation. You should arrive at a logical deduction about the cause of the
problem.
The four problems that most often occur in the lubrication system are as follows:
• High oil consumption (oil must be added frequently)
• Low oil pressure (gauge reads low, indicator light glows, or there are abnormal
engine noises)
• High oil pressure (gauge reads high, oil filter swells)
• Indicator or gauge problems (inaccurate operation or readings)
When diagnosing these troubles, make a visual inspection of the engine for obvious
problems. Check for oil leakage, a disconnected sending unit wire, low oil level,
damaged oil pan, or other troubles that relate to the symptoms.

2.5.1 High Oil Consumption

If the operator must add oil frequently to the engine, this is a symptom of high oil
consumption. External oil leakage out of the engine or internal leakage of oil into the
combustion chambers causes high oil consumption. A description of each of these
problems is as follows:
• External oil leakage-detected as darkened oil wet areas on or around the
engine. Oil may also be found in small puddles under the vehicle. Leaking
gaskets or seals are usually the source of external engine oil leakage.
• Internal oil leakage-shows up as blue smoke exiting the exhaust system of the
vehicle. For example, if the engine piston rings and cylinders are badly worn, oil
can enter the combustion chambers and will be burned during combustion.
NOTE
Do not confuse black smoke (excess fuel in the cylinder) and white smoke (water
leakage into the engine cylinder) with blue smoke caused by engine oil.

2.5.2 Low Oil Pressure

Low oil pressure is indicated when the oil indicator light glows, the oil gauge reads low,
or the engine lifters or bearings rattle. The most common causes of low oil pressure are
as follows:
• Low oil level (oil not high enough in pan to cover oil pickup)
• Worn connecting rod or main bearings (pump cannot provide enough oil volume)
• Thin or diluted oil (low viscosity or fuel in the oil)
• Weak or broken pressure relief valve spring (valve opens too easily)
• Cracked or loose pump pickup tube (air is being pulled into the oil pump)
• Worn oil pump (excess clearance between rotors or gears and housing)
NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-37
 • Clogged oil pickup screen (reduced amount of oil entering pump)
A low oil level is a common cause of low oil pressure. Always check the oil level first
when troubleshooting a low oil pressure problem.

2.5.3 High Oil Pressure

High oil pressure is seldom a problem. When it occurs, the oil pressure gauge will read
high. The most frequent causes of high oil pressure are as follows:
• Pressure relief valve stuck open (not opening at specified pressure)
• High relief valve spring tension (strong spring or spring has been improperly
shimmed)
• High oil viscosity (excessively thick oil or use of oil additive that increases
viscosity)
• Restricted oil gallery (defective block casting or debris in oil passage)

2.5.4 Indicator or Gauge Problems

A bad oil pressure indicator or gauge may scare the operator into believing there are
major problems. The indicator light may stay on or flicker, pointing to a low oil pressure
problem. The gauge may read low or high, also indicating a lubrication system problem.
Inspect the indicator or gauge circuit for problems. The wire going to the sending unit
may have fallen off. The sending unit wire may also be shorted to ground (light stays on
or gauge always reads high).
To check the action of the indicator or gauge, remove the wire from the sending unit.
Touch it on a metal part of the engine. This should make the indicator light glow or the
oil pressure gauge read maximum. If it does, the sending unit may be defective. If it
does not, then the circuit, indicator, or gauge may be faulty.
NOTE
Always check the service manual before testing an indicator or gauge circuit. Some
manufacturers recommend a special gauge tester. This is especially important with
some computer-controlled systems.

2.6.0 Lubricating System Maintenance

There are certain lubricating system service jobs that are more or less done
automatically when an engine is repaired. For example, the oil pan is removed and
cleaned during such engine overhaul jobs as replacing bearing or rings. When the
crankshaft is removed, it is usual procedure to clean out the oil passages in the
crankshaft. Also, the oil passages in the cylinder block should be cleaned out as part of
the overhaul.
As a Construction Mechanic, you will be required to maintain the lubrication system.
This maintenance normally consists of changing the oil and filter(s). Occasionally you
will be required to perform such maintenance tasks as replacing lines and fittings,
servicing or replacing the oil pump and relief valve, and flushing the system. The
following discussion provides information that will aid you in carrying out these duties.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-38

2.6.1 Oil and Filter Change
It is extremely important that the
oil and filter(s) (Figure 6-26) of
the engine are serviced
regularly. Lack of oil and filter
maintenance will greatly shorten
engine service life.
Manufacturers give a maximum
number of miles or hours a
vehicle can be operated
between oil changes. Newer
automotive vehicles can be
operated 5,000 miles between
changes. Older automotive
vehicles should have their oil
changed about every 3,000
miles. Most construction
equipment averages between
200 and 250 hours of operation
between oil changes. However,
depending on the climate and
working conditions, the miles Figure 6-26 - Oil and filter change.
and hours between oil changes
can be greatly reduced. Refer to the service manual for exact intervals.
To change the engine oil, warm the engine to full operating temperature, this will help
suspend debris in the oil and make the oil drain more thoroughly. Unscrew the drain
plug and allow the oil to flow into a catchment pan. Be careful of hot oil; it can cause
painful burns.
Usually the filter elements are replaced at the same time the oil is changed. The most
common filters are the spin-on filter or replaceable element type oil filter.
• Spin-on, throwaway oil filters-replaced as a complete unit. Unscrew the filter
from the base by hand or a filter wrench and throw the filter away. When
replacing, wipe the base clean with a cloth and place a small amount of oil or
grease on the gasket to ensure a good seal. Screw on a new filter, tightening at
least a half a turn after the gasket contacts the base. Do not use a filter wrench
because the filter canister could distort and leak.
• Replaceable element oil filter-removed from the filter housing and replaced.
Place a pan underneath the filter to catch oil from the filter. Remove the fastening
bolt and lift off the cover or filter housing. Remove the gasket from the cover or
housing and throw it away. Take out the old element and throw it away. Clean
the inside of the filter housing and cover it. Install a new element and insert a
new cover or housing gasket (ensure the gasket is completely seated in the
recess). Replace the cover or housing and fasten it to the center bolt securely.
After the oil has been completely drained and the drain plug replaced, fill the crankcase
to the full mark on the dipstick with the proper grade and weight of oil. Start and idle the
engine. Check the oil pressure immediately. Inspect the filter or filter housing for leaks.
Stop the engine and check the crankcase oil level and add to the full mark.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-39

Summary
This chapter not only described engine cooling and lubricating systems, it also
explained the harsh effects that can occur if they are not routinely cared for. By simply
inspecting and replenishing coolant and oil levels, and inspecting a radiator, an operator
can prevent major engine problems and extend the life of a piece of equipment.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-40

Trade Terms Introduced in this Chapter
Seize To top motion, to fuse with another part due to high
pressure or temperature.
Stationary The framework does not move, it is fixed in a particular
location.
Siphons Continuous tubes that allows liquid to drain from a
reservoir through an intermediate point that is higher, or
lower, than the reservoir, the flow being driven only by
the difference in hydrostatic pressure without any need
for pumping.
Stethoscope Used to listen to internal sounds made by machines,
such as diagnosing a malfunctioning automobile engine
by listening to the sounds of its internal parts.

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-48

Additional Resources and References
This chapter is intended to present thorough resources for task training. The following
reference works are suggested for further study. This is optional material for continued
education rather than for task training.
Modern Automotive Technology Seventh Edition, James E. Duffy, The Goodheart-
Willcox Company, Inc., 2009. (ISBN 978-1-59070-956-6)
Automotive Technology, A systems Approach Fourth Edition, Jack Erjavec, The
Thomson-Delmar Learning Company, Inc., 2005. (ISBN 1-4018-4831-1)
Diesel Technology Seventh Edition, Andrew Norman and John "Drew" Corinchock, The
Goodheart-Wilcox Company, Inc., 2007. (ISBN-13: 978-1-59070-770-8)
American Petroleum Institute, www.api.org

NAVEDTRA 14264A 6-49