Fabric structure –III Course Code: 3352902

GUJARAT TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT

COURSE CURRICULUM
COURSE TITLE: FABRIC STRUCTURE - III
(COURSE CODE: 3352902)

Diploma Programmes in which this course is offered Semester in which offered

Textile Manufacturing Technology 5th Semester

1. RATIONALE

Uses of textile materials is not limited for garment only but are used for other domestics,
industrial and decorative purpose. Diploma students must know all types of special structures
required for these special purpose applications, these types include Double cloth, Leno,
Gauze, Damask, Brocade, Toilet quilt and their related calculations for fabric like cloth cover,
ends/units and picks/units space. In this course students will be able to develop skills to
prepare special/advanced/ decorative types of woven designs on point paper/computer and
also will be able to prepare samples accordingly on a computerized Sample loom/Weaving
machine/electronic Jacquard. They will also be able to select the Weave according to the end
use of the fabric and acquire upper level ability. Through this course essential efforts are
made to satisfy industrial needs. It is therefore an important course.

2. LIST OF COMPETENCY

The course content should be taught and implemented with the aim to develop different
types of skills so that students are able to acquire following competency:
 Develop design for production of special / advance / decorative types of fabric.

3. COURSE OUTCOMES

The theory should be taught and practical should be carried out in such a manner that students
are able to acquire required learning out comes in cognitive, psychomotor and affective
domain to demonstrate following course outcomes.
i. Develop designs on double cloth.
ii. Use thread diagram for Gauze and leno Weave
iii. Differentiate between Damask and Brocade fabric
iv. Draw the design on Tapestry and Quilt fabrics
v. Develop Jacquard design using suitable motif on Jacquard design Sheet.

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Fabric structure –III Course Code: 3352902

4. TEACHING AND EXAMINATION SCHEME

Teaching Scheme Total Examination Scheme

(In Hours) Credits Theory Marks Practical Total
(L+T+P) Marks Marks
L T P C ESE PA ESE PA
3 0 4 7 70 30 40 60 200
Legends: L-Lecture; T – Tutorial/Teacher Guided Theory Practice; P - Practical; C – Credit ESE - End
Semester Examination; PA - Progressive Assessment.

5. COURSE DETAILS

Unit Major Learning Outcomes Topics and Sub-topics

(in cognitive domain)
Unit – I 1a. Justify end use of Double Cloth fabric. 1.1 Double cloth structure,
Double 1b. Explain the principle of tying for Double cloth designing and
Cloth constructing the double cloth. features of double cloth
1c. Describe the methods of producing the with end use of the fabric.
double cloth. 1.2 Principle of tying or
1d. Develop design, draft, peg-plan and stitching.
cross section of double cloth on graph 1.3 Construction of point paper
paper in: opening in two width, Tubular design for Double cloth for
cloth, Self stitched (with Warp Tye, the following: opening in
Weft Tye), Wadded, Centre stitch and two width, Tubular cloth,
Cut double cloth Self stitch, wadded, Centre
1e. Justify loom equipments required to stitch and Cut double cloth
produce Double cloth 1.4 Loom mechanism required
for producing double cloth.

Unit– II 2a. Differentiate between gauze, leno 2.1 Gauze and leno weave and
Gauze and weaving and end use of gauze and features of leno fabric.
Leno leno fabrics. 2.2 Gauze and leno weaving
Weave 2b. Explain the principle of gauze and 2.3 Loom mechanism required
leno weaving and leno fabric. for leno weave.
2c. Explain shed formation in leno 2.4 Types of gauze and leno
weaving. weave.
2d. Describe the shed formation with the a) Simple gauze or plain
doup heald mechanism. leno
2e. Describe the function of easer bar and b) Counter leno for point
shaker motion. draft
2f. Using thread diagram, draft and lifting c) Cross leno effect
plan to distinguish the following for d) Twill leno effect
gauze and leno weave. e) Net Leno effect
i. Simple gauze or leno weave. f) Russian cord
ii. Counter leno for point draft.
iii. Cross over effect.
iv. Twill leno effect
v. Net leno effect
vi. Russian cord.

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Fabric structure –III Course Code: 3352902

Unit Major Learning Outcomes Topics and Sub-topics

(in cognitive domain)
Unit–III 3a. Differentiate Damask and Brocade 3.1 True Damask structure.
Damask fabric. 3.2 Loom mechanism for
and 3b. Justify end use of Damask and Brocade damask fabric and end use
Brocade fabric. of the fabric.
Fabrics 3c. Develop the design for small motif of 3.3 Construction of damask on
true Damask and ordinary one sided point paper
Damask. 3.4 Damask and brocade
3d. Explain loom equipment required to structure.
produce Damask fabric. 3.5 Loom mechanism required
3e. Develop the design for small motif of for brocade fabric.
Brocade. 3.6 Construction of small
3f. Explain the loom equipment required to brocade motif.
produce Brocade.

Unit–IV 4a. Differentiate between tapestry and 4.1 Weft tapestry designing and
Tapestry quilt fabric and their end use its end use
and Quilt 4b. Differentiate Warp and Weft tapestry 4.2 Loom mechanism for
Fabrics structure with sketches tapestry fabric and end use
4c. Describe loom mechanism required to of the fabric.
produce tapestry fabrics. 4.3 Construction of:
4d. Draw the design for following quilts.  Loose back toilet quilts
a) Loose back toilet quilts  Fast back toilet quilts
b) Fast back toilet quilts. 4.4 Loom mechanism for quilt
4e. Explain the loom mechanism required fabric and its end use
to produce quilt fabric.

Unit–V 5a. Discuss the different sources from 5.1 Different sources for motif
Jacquard where the motif of jacquard designs. jacquard design: Nature,
Fabric 5b. Explain the factors affecting on Historical Incidence,
Designing Jacquard design Geometrical Shape,
and Fabric 5c. Draw/Prepare Jacquard design for a Reproducing from earlier
Calculation particular need from simple motif on Design
point paper/computer with following 5.2 Factor affecting on Jacquard
steps: design
i. Selection of motif 5.3 Preparation of Jacquard
ii. Select size of motif according to ends designing from simple
and picks motif on point
iii. Selection of proper count of design paper/computer.
paper.
iv. Enlarge the motif on a point paper.
v. Marking of proper setting.
vi. Selection of figuring weave
vii. Selection of ground weaves.
viii. Figure shedding if any
ix. Proper binding points
x. Perfect joining of figuring and ground
weave.

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Fabric structure –III Course Code: 3352902

Unit Major Learning Outcomes Topics and Sub-topics

(in cognitive domain)
5d. Describe the different arrangements of 5.4 Different arrangement of
Jacquard design. Jacquard designing.
i. Unit repeating designs 5.5 Cloth cover
ii. Geometric arrangement 5.6 Relation with count, weave
iii. Symmetrical arrangement and sort of fabric
iv. Drop principle
v. Sateen arrangement
5e. Interpret data with respect to fabric
cover and density, warp cover and weft
cover, cloth cover factor
5f. Establish relation with count, weave
and sort of the fabric with formula.
5g. Analyze the given fabric sample, based
on weave structure, draft and peg-plan
to suggest the loom equipment required
and end use of the fabric.
Prepare double cloth sample for a given
weave, warp and weft on a sample
loom weaving machine.

6. SUGGESTED SPECIFICATION TABLE WITH HOURS and MARKS (THEORY)

Unit Unit Title Teaching Distribution of Theory Marks

No. Hours R U A Total
Level Level Level Marks
I Double Cloth 08 03 08 03 14
II Gauze and Leno Weave 10 03 10 05 18
III Damask and Brocade fabrics 04 01 04 02 07
IV Tapestry and Quilt Fabric 06 02 04 04 10
V Jacquard Fabric Designing and
14 03 10 08 21
Fabric Calculation
Total 42 12 36 22 70
Legends: R = Remember; U = Understand; A = Apply and above levels (Bloom’s revised taxonomy)
Note: This specification table shall be treated as a general guideline for students and teachers. The actual
distribution of marks in the question paper may vary slightly from above table.

7. SUGGESTED LIST OF EXERCISES/PRACTICALS

The practical/exercises should be properly designed and implemented with an attempt to

develop abilitiesand skills (outcomes in psychomotor and affective domain) so that
students are able to acquire and demonstrate the course learning and programme outcomes.
Following is the list of practical exercises for guidance.

Note: Here performance outcomes in psychomotor domain are listed as practical/exercises.

However, if these practical/exercises are completed and demonstrated appropriately, they
would contribute to the development of demonstrated learning in behavioral terms in affective

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Fabric structure –III Course Code: 3352902

domain. As a whole, the total approach towards acquisition of knowledge, skills, abilities and
behaviorand demonstration of the same would lead to the development of Course Outcomes.
Thus over all development of Programme Outcomes (as given in a common list at the
beginning of curriculum document for this programme) would be assured.

Faculty should refer to that common list and should ensure that students also acquire
outcomes in affective domain which are required for overall achievement of Programme
Outcomes/Course Outcomes.

S. Unit Practical Exercises Hrs.

No. No. (Outcomes’ in Psychomotor Domain) required
Draw Structural design for ‘Double Cloth’ on graph paper.
a) Tubular cloth , Double cloth opening in two width.
b) Self stitched Double cloth with
1 I b) Warp Tye ,Weft Tye ,Warp and Weft Tye 06
a) Wadded double cloth.
b) Centre stitch double cloth
c) Cut double cloth
2 I Analyse double cloth samples 02
Prepare double cloth sample on sample loom/weaving machine.
3 a) Tubular Cloth 04
I b) Self Stitch double cloth
4 II Prepare chart of shed formation in leno weaving. 02
Draw designs, draft and peg plan for ‘Gauze and Leno Design’
on graph paper.
a) Simple gauze or plain leno
5 II 12
b) Counter leno for point draft
c) Cross leno effect, Twill leno effect, Net Leno effect
d) Russian cord
6 II Analyse of the leno fabric. 02
7 III Prepare Damask design on graph paper with suitable Motif. 02
8 III Prepare Brocade design on graph paper with suitable Motif. 02
Prepare Warp and Weft Tapestry design on graph paper with
9 IV 04
suitable Motif.
Prepare Quilt design on graph paper.
10 IV a) Loose back toilet quilts 04
b) Fast back toilet quilts
11 V Develop Jacquard design on point paper/computer. 12
Prepare small motif showing the arrangement of Jacquard
12 V 02
designing.
Calculate Warp Cover, Weft Cover and Fabric Cover of the
13 VI given sample, Possible maximum EPI and PPI for particular 02
weave.
Total 56

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Fabric structure –III Course Code: 3352902

8. SUGGESTED LIST OF STUDENT ACTIVITIES

Following is the list of proposed student activities like: course/topic based seminars, internet
based assignments, teacher guided self learning activities, course/library/internet/lab based
mini-projects.
i. Collection of various Textile fabric samples from market.
ii. Visit to the design development studio of weaving mill.
iii. Demonstration of Leno doup.
iv. Prepare sample on sample loom
v. Preparation of charts for quality particulars and end use of fabric

9. SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONAL STRATEGIES (if any)

i. Show video films/photographs/animations for different fabric manufacturing

processes.
ii. Arrange visit to relevant industries.
iii. Expert lectures by textile engineers associated with production of special fabrics.

10. SUGGESTED LEARNING RESOURCES

A) List of Books
S.
Title of Book Author Publication
No.
Elementary Textile William Wattson Longmans Green and co.,
1.
Design and Colour London
Advance Textile William Wattson Longmans Green and o.,1955,
2.
Design London
Watson's Textile Z. Grosiky Universal Publishing Corporation,
3. Design and Colour 534, Kalbadevi Road, Dhobi
Talao, Bombay-400002
Watson's Advance Z. Grosiky Universal Publishing Corporation,
4. Textile Design 534, Kalbadevi Road, Dhobi
Talao, Bombay-400002
Grammar of Textile Nisbet Ernest Benn Limited, Boutverie
5.
Design House, 154 Fleet Street, London
Fabric Structure and N. Gokarneshan New Age International (P)
6.
Design Limited, Publishers, New Delhi
7. Weaving calculation R. Sengupta

B) List of Major Equipment/ Instrument with Broad Specifications

i. Textile Laboratory – Sample loom

C) List of Software/Learning Websites

i. www.handweaving.net
ii. http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles770.html
iii. www.colourmatters.com
iv. http://www.mariaclaudiacortes.com/colors/Colors.html
v. http://www.worqx.com/resource-recommends.htm
vi. www.micro.magnet.fsu.edu

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Fabric structure –III Course Code: 3352902

vii. www.textilearts.net/directory/techniques/colour
viii. www.members.cox.net/mrsparker2
ix. www.teonline.com
x. www.bharatextile.com/directory
xi. www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_design
xii. www.fibre2fashion.com
xiii. www.designdiary.nic.in
xiv. www.handlooms.com
xv. http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/
xvi. http://www.textileassociationindia.org/
xvii. http://textilelearner.blogspot.in
xviii. http://www.designdiary.nic.in/

11. COURSE CURRICULUM DEVELOPMENT COMMITTEE

Faculty Members from Polytechnics

 Prof.V.N.Soni, HOD Textile Manufacturing , R.C Technical Institute, Ahmedabad
 Prof. Y. M. Gandhi HOD Textile Manufacturing , Sir B.P.T.I, Bhavanagar
 Prof. D.V. Bihola Lecturer in Textile Manufacturing, R.C Technical Institute,
Ahmedabad
 Prof. S.M.Zala, Lecturer in Textile Manufacturing, Sir B.P.T.I, Bhavanagar.

Coordinator and Faculty Members from NITTTR Bhopal

 Dr. C. K. Chugh, Professor, Department of Mechanical Engineering
 Dr. Joshua Earnest, Professor, Department of Electrical and Electronics Engineering

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