Executive Pages July 2021 NEW CLOTH MARKET

NEW CLOTH MARKET
THE COMPLETE TEXTILE MAGAZINE FROM TEXTILE TECHNOLOGISTS
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EDITORIAL BOARD JULY 2021
CONTENTS
Dr. Anandjiwala R. : Business Area Manager, CSIR, (VOL. 35, NO. 7)
South Africa
Bhatia Kailash : CEO-IMG, Pantaloon Retail (I) Ltd.
Jasuja G.D. : IIMS, Ahmedabad 7 EDITORIAL: "DO OUR EXPORT PROMOTION
Dr. Mittal R.M. : President (Technology & Strategy) COUNCILS (EPCS) REQUIRE RESTRUCTURING?
Morarjee Goculdas Spg. & Wvg.
08 EXECUTIVE PAGES
Co. Ltd., Mumbai
Dr. Oza K.I. : Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad * Kunal Recipe for Microencapsulation Finish
Prof. Patel M.R. : Ex-Principal, Vishwakarma Govt. * Tailorlux: Providing Authentication and Traceability
Engg. College, Ahmedabad Solutions to Value Chains
Dr. Paul Roshan : Head, Research, Function & Care Dept., * Zimmer's Colaris Digital Towel Printing Machine
Hohenstein Institute, Germany
Dr. Rajan V.S. : Technical Advisor, Filter Fabrics
* Anti Back Staining Agent from Sarex
Sadhu M.C. : Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad * Colourtex Recipe HT Filament PES Saree (60g)
Dr. Saxena Y.K. : Consultant, Industrial Environment * How to improve the light fastness of disperse dyes?
Somani Sampat : G.M.-Fibre Dyeing, Bhilwara * How to distinguish whether denim is patch-dyed
Processors Ltd., Bhilwara
or rope-dyed?
Dr. Shroff J.J. : Advisor (R&D), Arvind Mills Ltd.
* Practical Application of Sulfur Dyes
Edited and Published by G. D. Jasuja
28 LIST OF NEW TEXTILE & ALLIED COMPANIES
on behalf of the owners
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38 SMART TEXTILES: A TOOLKIT TO FASHION THE
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48 INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES
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NEW CLOTH MARKET
Published by
IIMS
The Complete Monthly Textile Magazine from Textile Technologists AHMEDABAD
ADVISORY BOARD
Dr. Bhat Prabhakar : Head - Textile Dept., Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science, Indore.
Dr. Deo H.T. : Ex Professor (Fibre Chemistry), U.D.C.T., Bombay.
Mr. Garde A.R. : Ex-Director, ATIRA
Mr. Jain K.C. : Processing Manager, Bhilwara Suitings, Bhilwara
Mr. Lekhadia Atul : Managing Director, Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd.
Dr. Patel B.B. : Professor of Economics, Gandhi Labour Institute, Ahmedabad
Mr. Shah H.K. : FinancialAdviser, ANZ Exports (India), Ahmedabad
TECHNICAL COMMITTEE
Mr. Ahmed H. : Retd. Officer Incharge, Textile Committee, Govt. of India, Ministry of Textiles, Ahmedabad
Mr. Bhagat A.D. : Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad
Mr. Dalal C.R. : Technical Consultant, Ahmedabad
Mr. Deepak Agrawal : Director, Sparkle Tex Fab Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad
Mr. Gupta P.K. : Director, Anant Polyesters Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad
Mr. Hardik Shah : Marketing Director, Embee Corporation, Ahmedabad
Dr. Jamdagni Rishi : Ex. Director, Technological Institute of Textiles (TIT), Bhiwani
Mr. Kapoor Ajay : Technical Manager, Reliance Textile Industries, Ahmedabad
Dr. Mahapatra N.N. : Business Head (Dyes), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd., Mumbai
Mr. Mehta A.K. : General Manager (Fabric Processing) Bhilwara Processors Ltd., Bhilwara
Mr. Patel Kiritkumar V. : CEO, Su-parshwa Texprint LLP, Ahmedabad
Mr. Ramesh Shah : Director, Adman Forex & Services Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad
Mr. Shukla K.S. : Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad
Mr. Shukla Pankaj : Retired from Comet Chemicals, Ahmedabad
Mr. Thukral P.S. : Design & Development Consultant (Thukral Consultex), Ahmedabad
Mr. Vasudva K.N. : Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad
Mr. VC Patel : CEO, Perfect Laboratory, Ahmedabad
Mr. Vijay Dhar : Senior Textile Consultant (Processing), Ahmedabad
Prof. (Dr.) Wasif A. I. : Ex-Principal, D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engg. Institute, Ichalkarnji
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NCM-JULY 2021
7
Fragrance and Temperature Sensitive Colours
PAGES (Microencapsulation Approach)
Various chemical and physico-chemical techniques are used for improving aesthtic and functional properties of
textiles. Application of textile finishing agents is still the primary approach for improving such properties. The last
and perhaps most promising physico chemical method of applying finishing agents to textiles is microencapsu-
lation of the agent and affixing of the microcapsuls to the fibrous substrate. An example of its utility for fabric is
microencapsulation of catalyst and or durable press resins for fabrics. Another example is the diffusion of Anti-
bacterials or pesticides from textile material laminated.
Microencapsulation technology is increasingly being used in Japan to produce modified fabrics having novel
functional properties. Microcapsules containing perfume have been attached to fabrics that release a fragrance,
and cholesteric liquid. These have been microencapsulated into coated fabrics to produce swimsuits and skiwear
that changes colour when the temperature rises or falls. It is probable that future developments and innovations
will occur in the attachment of microcapsules to fibrous substrates to produce various improved properties. A
typieal recipe for fragrance and thermo colour for dyeing and printing is given below.
Aroma Granule AG Ink for Printing
Aroma Granule Aqvolite Ink is concentrated paste prepared by microencapsulation technology. The capsules, an
rubbing with hands or scrubbing, give 18 different kinds of pleasant fragance. The capsules on pattern are
durable for quite a long time, unless adverse conditions are used. They can be used on any fibrers. Aroma
Granule AG Inks (Perfume Capsules), available in milky-white form, are stable for one year when stored in cool
dark place.
Aroma Granule AG Ink 10-30 Parts
Binder 90-70 Parts
Fixer 2 Parts
EXECUTIVE
Total 102 Parts

Print-Dry (1200 C for 3 minutes)
Chromicolor-Photopia - Aroma Granule System (Temperature Sensitive Colours for Garment Dyeing)
Cotton woven/knitted garments can be dyed in garment dyeing m/c using following colours-auxiliaries and
conditions.
Dyes/Chemicals Quantity (% O.W.F) Purpose
Fixer P 3 Pre-treatment for Aqua tite Color
Binder MRY 10-19 Adhesive for Aqualite Color
Retardant PG-1 0.4 Dyeing auxiliary.
Retardant PG-2 0.2 Dyeing auxiliary.
Printgen PG-3 0.2 Defoamer
Chromi Color 10-20 Temperature Sensitive Color
Aquvalite Ink
Phtopia Aqualite Ink 10-20 Light Sensitive Color
Aroma Granule Aqualite Ink Fregance
PG Color MI 2 Dispersing liquid for pigment
Softener 5 Softening agonl
Processing Method
Pre-Treatment
(i) Fill the machine with soft water and then load with garment.
(ii) Add diluted fixer and run the machine for 10-20 minutes at R.T.
(iii) Raise the temperature to 700C. 30/minutes and run for 15 min.
(iv) Drain the water and rinse
Dyeing - Finishing
(i) Fill the machine with water and dyeing auxiliaries.
(ii) Pre dissolve the color add to the machine; run for 20 minutes.
(iii) Raise the temp. to 700C. 20/min. and run for This page is sponsored by :
30 min. Do not use direct steam for heating.
(iv) Wash using softener Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd.
(v) Drain - Hydro extract Tumble Dry Leaders in New Generation Textile Processing Chemicals
Heat - Treatment Address : 34, Madhuvan Towers, Madalpur, Ellis Bridge,
Ahmedabad-380 006. Fax : 91-79-26409677
Garments are baked at 1300C
Email : mail@kunal.com
NCM-JULY 2021
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Tailorlux: Providing Authentication and Traceability Solutions to Value Chains
Tailorlux provides authentication and traceability solutions with covert markings that are inseparably
PAGES
linked to the product. Through its interdisciplinary expertise in light emitting materials and detection,
Tailorlux contributes to making transparency, authenticity and traceability a reality in value chains of
various industries.
IntegriTEX® is a concealed marking system for the au-

thentication of textile products.
For IntegriTEX® pigments are inserted into the product.
These can then be read with optical “key-lock sensors”.
Whether natural fibre, man-made fibre or cellulose, our
IntegriTEX® solution becomes the invisible signature
of your textile application. Whether through the addition
EXECUTIVE
of a marking fibre, as part of a textile finish, hidden in

the sewing thread or as part of the polymer, our sensor
will find your signature.
IntegriTEX® markings are extremely resistant to me-
chanical, chemical and thermal influences.
In addition, the marking is machine-readable at any time
and any place and can be used in court.
The aim of the system, which has already been suc-
cessfully tested at “PIMA” and “Egypt Cotton” and is
used in many technical textiles, is to ensure “product
integrity”: meaning the possibility of guaranteeing origin,
processing and originality.
- Machine learning helps in determining the percent-
age of staple fibre.
- Mobile sensor is set for detection from fibre to fin-
ished textile.
Industrial marking processes help protect products and value
chains. For example, covert security marking not only protects
the manufacturer from unjustified recourse, but can also serve
as proof of origin, especially in the textile industry. The Tailorlux
products in the largely standardized
solution can be used to mark both man-made fibers using a
sorting facilities without the need for
masterbatch or cotton fibers using a viscose fiber. This marking
costly additional technology. With this
is inseparably linked to the textile and can be read at any point in
process and the overall solutions of-
the value chain. Counterfeiting is particularly attractive in prod-
fered, Tailorlux is addressing both
uct groups where the margin is high and the threshold for blend-
manufacturers of packaging materials
ing is low. These include recycled PET and organic cotton.
and manufacturers or fillers of products
Tailorlux has been granted a patent to detect and identify the who are looking for a solution to iden-
pigments it manufactures and offers using hyperspectral imag- tify materials in the recycling process
ing. This significantly supports Tailorlux’s efforts in the field of and thus realize a closed cycle of re-
recycling by enabling a pure material flow of the invisibly marked cyclable materials.
NCM-JULY 2021
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Viscose with a finger print by Kelheim Fibres
Kelheim Fibres, manufacturers of specialty viscose fibres, has developed a new viscose ‘fibre with a
PAGES fingerprint’. To achieve this, luminescent pigments from Tailorlux are incorporated in the viscose fibre
matrix during the spinning process – so they are intrinsically bound to the fibre and durable. Tailorlux
produces customized pigments in a range of more than 300 billion combinations, each with its own
individual spectrum.
The new fibre aims to protect products from forgery as fibres incorporating these pigments bear their
characteristic spectroscopic fingerprint in the body of the fibre, allowing the fibres and the products
made using them to be precisely identified.
Germany-based Kelheim’s latest development is primarily aimed at the paper, textiles and nonwovens
industries, wherever products need an invisible but unique identification mark. These fibres can ensure
the traceability of filters – or they can help to control the compliance of predetermined supply chains in
the textile industry.
Why textiles win in the long run - Sustainability performance of table linen as compared to disposables
The textile services sector encompasses the supply, rental, laundering and maintenance of textiles,
including table linen used in hotel/restaurant/catering. The performance of two alternative types of table
linen used in hotels and restaurants has been examined; textiles (product-as-service through professional
textile service) on the one hand, and disposable paper products on the other. The report has an emphasis
on four countries: UK, Belgium, Sweden and the US and shows that:
Hygiene
• The hygiene performance of textile table linen is equal to dispos-
EXECUTIVE
able table linen.

• Thorough, comprehensive and systematic hygiene management
saturates the textile service industry. Implemented hygiene man-
agement is commonly also reviewed by third-party agents, guaran-
teeing compliance.
• Amongst plastic, paper, stainless steel, glass, vinyl and cotton
fabric, cotton fabric was the material with the lowest half-life, im-
plying that the COVID-19 virus dies faster on this type of surface
compared to paper surfaces, as per an independent research.
• Consumers do not see textiles as a relevant path for contamination of COVID-19.
Environment
• Using updated data for the use of energy and water in washing of laundry decreases the climate
impact from the use of textiles to only half of the impact from disposables, when comparing previously
performed LCAs of textile and disposable table linen.
• Recycling of textile fibers, use of alternative fibers in textile-production & increased use of non-fossil
energy in the washing process, are continuously decreasing environmental impacts from textiles.
• Multi-use of textile table linen in circular processes is already preferable to use of disposables, and
several ongoing processes strongly point at further environmental benefits from use of textile table
linen as compared to disposables in the future.
Economy
• The circular business model were textile table linen passes through multiple washing cycles creates
Jobs on a local scale, different from the linear business model of disposables.
• Each job created in textile service industry creates another 0.25 indirect and induced jobs. The Euro-
pean and the US textile service sectors together support almost 330 000 jobs in total.
• The diversity amongst workers in the sector clearly reflects the important role that the laundry and
textile service industry has for the provision of jobs and opportunities for foreign-born people. The
textile service industry is a motor for integration in countries through-out the world.
• Choosing textile table linen generates jobs locally through textile service companies. Supporting the
sector is therefore utterly important in times with rising unemployment.
NCM-JULY 2021
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Zimmer's Colaris Digital Towel Printing Machine
PAGES Shrinath Cotfab, India – A Success Story
Highly reputed towel manufacturer Shrinath Cotfab from Maharastra, India has invested into a COLARIS
Digital Towel Printing System in 2019.
As per the manufacturer - Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH - the Colaris.64-2600 is equipped with 32 Starfire™
M-type printheads and is complemented by a Bianco pinwheel weft alignment system. Additionally, the
print line is fitted with CHR-DPT inline inkjet pre-treatment system and prints wet on wet with reactive
inks. The dryer is a direct supply from Indian manufacturer Yamuna Machine Works Ltd.
Since start-up of the COLARIS print line, the company has constantly increased production capacity of
digitally printed towels and continuously developed their market share, including global export.
EXECUTIVE
Right - Mr. Amit Chandak (CEO)/Left - Mr.Himanshu Sharma (Technical Head)

Mr. Amit Chandak, CEO of Shrinath Cotfab likes to share his experience.
Mr. Amit, after more than one year of production with a COLARIS Digital Towel Printing System, how do
you comment your experience?
COLARIS is a brilliant machine. It has a lot of moving parts which might be daunting. Nevertheless,
ZIMMER technical team has trained our operators and service staff who become real professionals to run
operations smooth and efficiently. With the professional support by ZIMMER AUSTRIA, it has become a
smooth sailing ride.
How do you see the future in towel printing? Will digital printing replace traditional screen printing, or will
it remain a complimentary option?
We believe digital will be a nice compliment in the towel printing industry. It is a superior product that is
still of limited acceptance in some markets.
What can you tell us about the quality of the machine and the printheads?
All has come as advertised and promised by the vendor. No complains at all.
Any comments on the after sales support of ZIMMER AUSTRIA?
All required support has been on the point. They have been by our side through thick and thin.
Would you like to add any additional comments?
NCM-JULY 2021
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PAGES
Reach out to Amit Chandak, CEO, Shrinath Cotfab at amit@shrinathcotfab.com to discuss if you are
interested in some of the beautiful and high-quality towels. Website: www.shrinathcotfab.com
COLARIS Digital Inkjet Printing Systems from ZIMMER Austria
The workhorse for any kind of heavy weight fabric and voluminous substrate incl. upholstery fabrics,
velour, terry fabric and carpet products.
With a vast experience in digital printing incl. various multinational towel producers, we are the right
EXECUTIVE
partner to convert any design idea into high quality, value added terry towels.
Compelling Features
What makes a COLARIS printer an outstanding solution for terry fabric printing?
* Experience and knowhow gained from heaviest textile substrates, incl. woven carpet with a weight of
up to 3,200 gsm
* Solid and sturdy construction of the printer and all its print line components
* Flexible layout that offers various options for a fully integrated towel print production
* Penetration booster system to work with ready for inkjet printing fabric
* Optional features such as:
- Analog or digital inline pre-treatment system
- Inline weft alignment system
- Automatic cross border detection with design positioning to stay registered even with varying towel
length
- Variety of different dryer solutions
- Inline fixation with SHS SupraFIX curing system
- Loop steamers for offline dye fixation
- SupraWASH for start-ups and small towel production units
COLARIS Towel Printing Line: Customer Satisfaction Guaranteed
NCM-JULY 2021
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PAGES Anti Back Staining Agent
Dr. Naresh M. Saraf
F.R.S.C., F.T.I., F.S.D.C., F.A.I.C. of Sarex, India
Introduction:
Denim as a fabric, has received the widest acceptance among all textile products. Today, denim jeans are
one of the most popular clothing item having an incredible influence on consumers, both socially and
culturally. Denim garments are looked at as a major trend setter by our youth. The spread of denim culture
all over the world brought with it a trend of fast changing fashions. This twill cotton fabric usually has warp
threads indigo dyed while weft remains plain white. The warp faced fabric therefore looks blue on one side
and white on reverse. The warp being ring dyed, creates denim’s fading characteristics, which is unique
compared to every other textile material. Such ring-dyed materials when subjected to treatment with
stone or enzymes, randomly removes the dye from abraded portions of the fabric exposing white sur-
faces. With changing times, many new variants of denim came into existence.
To meet rapid change in demands of customers, technologists are trying to impart new designs and
fashion on denim garments by means of different types of washing methods. Denim washing is one of the
key areas in getting the faded look. One after another several washes were introduced such as stone
wash, acid wash, moon wash, etc. Earlier stone washing used to be done to achieve soft feel and the
desired appearance. As per the denim garment export market, this high quality garment has superior
aesthetics and great value for price. During washing, the pumice stone, scraps off the dye particles from
the yarn surface in the denim fabric. Difficulty in removing residual pumice from fabric, damage to equip-
ment and clogging of machine drainage passage due to particulate material proved to be major draw-
backs with the technique. Later on use of enzymes became a sustainable option to get the worn out look
EXECUTIVE
in denim.
The enzymes used are cellulase enzymes, specifically acting on the cellulose part, mainly on the surface
of the fabric. This gives the desired look and at the same time, removes hairiness from surface thus
giving a smooth and soft feel. Cellulases were first introduced in the 1980s, and nowadays more than 80%
of denim finishers use cellulases or a combination of stones and cellulases to create the worn look on
denim. Cellulases work by loosening the indigo dye on the denim in a process known as biostoning. The
cellulase enzyme hydrolytically degrade the cellulose part until it becomes glucose. This glucose is
partially able to reduce the indigo, both on the fibre and in the treatment liquor. This reduced form has low
affinity to cellulose fibre and thus soils the weft thread and the pocket lining / back staining.
In terms of the quality aspect, back staining plays a vital role in improving the appearance of the denim
garment. Back staining implies soiling of the weft thread and the pocket lining by detached indigo or its
reduced leuco form. Back staining mainly occurs during desizing or stone washing or enzyme stone
washing.
Denim and its various items like pants, shirts, jackets, belts, caps, etc, are the most preferred clothing
for today's youth. This study discusses about the performance of Sarakol-BSI 667 in reducing or prevent-
ing back staining of indigo dyes on the weft yarn and pocket of denim garments.
Mechanism:
During stone washing or enzyme
washing, the cellulose is degraded hy-
drolytically by cellulase enzyme par-
tially until it becomes glucose.
The glucose formed is partially able
to reduce the indigo, both on the fibre
and in the treatment liquor. This reduced
form has low affinity to cellulose fibre
and thus soils the weft thread and the
pocket lining.
As a whole, obtaining a good contrast between the blue and white yarns is often described as minimized
back staining. In order to avoid such back staining which will reduce the garment value in the world
market, anti back staining agents are used in the wash bath.
NCM-JULY 2021
15
Sarex has developed an Anti back staining agent, Sarakol-BSI 667 which is added in the bath along with
other chemicals associated with the respective washes. Sarakol-BSI 667 is capable of prohibiting the
PAGES action wherein the removed dyes re-deposit themselves on the garment.
Unique Features Of Sarakol-BSI 667:
- An Anti back staining agent for denim garments available in powder form.
- It forms stable dilution (30% dilution)
- Prevents re-deposition of indigo on garment, particularly labels and pockets in denim garment, during
processing.
- It produces salt pepper effect when combined with cellulase enzyme in denim fading.
- Can be added in desizing as well as bio-polishing of denim garments.
- Anti back staining, excellent dispersing and anti re-deposition action
- Prevents staining of labels and pockets in denim garment.
Application:
Bio-polishing:
0.5-1.0 g/l Biopol-HC + 0.5-0.6 g/l Celldet-R + 0.5-1% Sarakol-BSI 667 (on weight of garment/fabric)
o
pH 5-7, depending on enzyme, Temperature 55 C, Time - 45-60 min.
Stone Washing
0.5-1% Sarakol-BSI 667 on weight of garment/fabric.
EXECUTIVE
Instruction for Dilution

Procedure to prepare 30% Sarakol-BSI 667
- Charge 70 parts water and begin stirring
o
- Increase temperature to 90 C
- Charge 30 parts Sarakol-BSI 667
o
- Maintain temperature of 90 C
- Continue stirring for 30 min to obtain homogenous product
o
- Continue stirring while lowering down the temperature to 30 C
- Mix thoroughly and filter
Results:
Enzymatic treat-
ment carried out
in presence of
Sarakol-BSI 667
effectively pre-
vents the re-dep-
osition indigo
dye on the denim
pockets.
NCM-JULY 2021
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Processing Sequence for High Twist Filament Saree - 60 Grams Polyester
PAGES Fabric Details : Warp - 50/24/2600 Twist SD Filament S/Z; Weft - 50/24/2600 Twist SD Filament S/Z
Reed - 96/2; Pick - 80; Width - 56; Weight - 6.800
Process Sequence :
Druming ( 3600 mts)
Hydros : 500 gms (Optional)
Lecocol CLFD : 500 gms
o
(80 C for 30 min)
Drain
Levocol JD : 1500 gms

Levocol CESR 1500 gms
o
130 C for 90 min at 2.75-3.0 kg pressure
Drain and cold rinse (No foreign impurity should remain on fabric)
Heat setting on Stenter

Soft water
o
At 190 C/42” width/20% shortage/speed 40 mts/min
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Weight Reduction in Softlina (Approx : 18 - 20% or as per requirement)
Drain
Hot wash (30 min) Finally

o o
Drain Print – Dry at 140 C – Loop/Fixation at 170 C for 8 mins.
Jet Dyeing M/c. Neutralisation Reduction Clearing and Hydro Extraction
Acetic Acid
Oxalic acid
:
:
4000 gms
750 gms
as per standard procedure
Levocol CAN
o
: 500 gms Finishing on Stenter :
90 C for 30 min
Levofin MF - 1.0 % + Levofin LF - 0.5 %
o
Drain 175 C for 30 secs.
Whitening/Dyeing Zero – Zero Finish and Folding.
Acetic Acid (98%) : 1000 gms (pH = 4)
Levocol CDFT : 350 gms
Levocol CWS : 200 gms
Coralene Colour/White R (As Required)
o
At 130 C for 30 min.
Drain
Cold rinse This information is provided in good faith, to the best of

Levocol 4398 : 1500 gms our knowledge and without liabilities
This page is sponsored by : Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd.
Heat Setting for PrintingI
Email : totalsolutions@colourtex.co.in
Levocol 4398 : 500 gms Website : www.colourtex.co.in
Levocol CAN : 100 gms for 100 lits
o
190 C for 30- 45 Sec. Width – 45" Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd. Surat
NCM-JULY 2021
17
How to improve the light fastness of disperse dyes?
PAGES Q: The sun umbrella printed by our company has insufficient light fastness. I can't achieve the
effect after changing several dyes. How can I solve it? Thank you
A: For direct printing on polyester fabrics, high-temperature steaming is required after printing to avoid
interpenetration of patterns and colors. Dyes with high sublimation fastness must be selected. In order to
prevent patterns from fading by the sun, the light fastness is also very important. In order to reduce the
concentration of dark pattern dyes in the printing paste, it is necessary to select dyes with a high lifting
rate. The above three basic requirements are particularly important for polyester ultra-fine fibers. At the
same time, dyes that are affected by carcinogenic aromatic amines and allergenic should be prohibited.
The sublimation fastness of disperse dyes is related to the molecular structure of the dye, the humidity of
steam fixation and the printing depth, and the sublimation fastness is related to the intramolecular cou-
pling and molecular size of the disperse dyes. The molecular size is more important. High sublimation
fastness dyes are suitable for fixing at high temperature, because it is mainly dyed by direct transfer to
the fiber, the molecule is large, and it is easy to cause poor level dyeing. Therefore, the dye factory should
try to choose the dye matching with the same sublimation firmness.
The light fastness of disperse dyes mainly depends on the molecular structure. Generally speaking, the
light fastness of anthraquinone-type disperse dyes is higher than that of azo-type disperse dyes. The
light-leg color of anthraquinone-type disperse dyes is a very complicated problem. The first and most
important stage of coloring is to generate hydroxylamine compounds, and then continue to oxidize to
destroy the chromophore. The electron cloud density of the amine group is high, that is, the stronger the
alkalinity, the easier it is to oxidize to hydroxylamine, and the lower the light fastness of the dye. However,
both the a-position amino group and the hydroxyl group can form a stable intramolecular hydrogen bond
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with the oxygen atom of the carbonyl group on the anthraquinone ring. The singlet states of the dye
molecules at different energy levels in the excited state of sunlight quickly lose their activity through the
energy transfer through intramolecular hydrogen bonds, resulting in the shortening of the excited state
and reducing the probability of photochemical reactions. For example, the introduction of electron-with-
drawing substituents at the B position, amino bases The light fastness will increase, and the anthraquinone-
type disperse dyes with high light fastness all have the above-mentioned molecular structure.
The improvement rate of disperse dyes is also closely related to the molecular structure. It is generally
believed that the color strength of azo disperse dyes is higher than that of anthraquinone disperse dyes.
For example: The molar extinction system number of red anthraquinone disperse dyes is 1.0~1.4×104
[lumens/mol•cm]. The azo type can reach 3.0~4.0×104[lumens/mol•cm], the molar extinction system
number of blue anthraquinone disperse dyes is 2.0~2.5×104[lumens/mol•cm], and the azo type is 3.2
~4.5×104[lumens/mol•cm]. The diazo component of blue azo disperse dyes is 2-position or 2.6-position.
After cyano group is introduced, the molar extinction coefficient reaches 7.0~7.2×104 [lumens/mol•cm].
At the same time, the dark color effect (red shift of absorption wavelength) and dense color effect (im-
provement of lifting power) of dyes are improved, and their sublimation fastness and light fastness are
greatly improved, and the general sublimation fastness can reach 4~5 levels. The light fastness can
reach level 7.
At present, domestic and foreign dye companies use the principle of compound synergies to introduce
compound disperse dyes and change their melting point and vapor pressure to improve the sublimation
fastness, heat transfer performance, dyeing saturation value and lifting power of disperse dyes.
The molecular structure of disperse dyes for printing that meets high sublimation fastness (grade 4~5`),
high light fastness (grade 6~7) and high lifting power is roughly as follows:
Quinophthalones: Its absorption strength Very high, about 1.5 times that of pyrazolone commonly used
in general yellow disperse dyes. The introduction of a hydroxyl group at the 3-position of quinolinphthalone
can improve the sublimation fastness and light fastness, the reason is that hydrogen bonds are formed
inside the love molecule.
The introduction of substituents on the quinolinphthalone ring or the phthalic anhydride ring can improve
the sublimation fastness of the dye, such as CI Disperse Yellow 64
Pyridones: Yellow disperse dyes synthesized by pyridone derivatives as coupling components, absorb
The strength is very high, about 1.5 times that of pyrazolones, for example: CI Disperse Yellow 119, light
fastness is 6-7, and sublimation fastness is 5.
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Styrenes: Styrene disperse dyes are a class of bright greenish-
yellow dyes, which can reach 6~7 levels of sunlight and 4~5
PAGES levels of sublimation fastness. For example, the following dis-
perse dyes can be used for polyester printing.
CI Disperse Yellow 49 | CI Disperse Yellow 93 CI Disperse Yellow 49
Benzamazole of naphthalenetetracarboximide: This type of
disperse dye is reddish bright yellow with a With bright fluores-
cence, the light fastness can reach 6~7, and the sublimation
fastness is 4~5, for example:
CI Disperse Yellow 93
Anthraquinones: The anthraquinone structure is one of the red
and blue disperse dyes. It has good light fastness. Although the
improvement rate is low, the dye penetrates due to the differ- CI Disperse Yellow 58
ence between printing and dyeing. The strength is low, and the
apparent color depth of the fabric is not very serious. Of course,
its sublimation fastness is not as good as that of the incidental
disperse dyes. If the molecular weight of the anthraquinone dis-
perse dyes is increased, especially after the molecular weight
of the B position increases, the sublimation fastness can be CI Disperse Yellow 63
improved. For example:
CI Disperse Red 92 (sublimation degree 4~5)
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CI Disperse Blue 60 (sublimation degree 4~5)

CI Disperse Blue 73 (sublimation degree 4~ Level 5)
Azo: Azo disperse dyes have chromatograms and are mainly
used for dark printing such as red and blue. The main excellent
varieties are those containing cyano groups and heterocycles,
and the diazo group is composed of 2 positions and Direct print-
ing disperse dyes with cyano group introduced at position 2.6 CI Disperse Yellow 32
such as:
CI Disperse Red 165
CI Disperse Blue 183
CI Disperse Red 92
The brightness, light resistance and molar extinction coefficient
of heterocyclic disperse dyes are better than those of arylamine
azo disperse dyes, so it is the focus of the development of new
varieties of disperse dyes in recent years. Red heterocyclic dis-
perse dyes such as CI Disperse Red 338, 339, 340 are disperse
dyes with 1,3,4-thiadiazole as the diazo component. They all
have the advantages of brightness, high color strength, good
light fastness, and a molar extinction coefficient of 5.5×104 [lu-
mens/mol•cm]. The molecular structure is as follows: CI Disperse Blue 60
CI Disperse Red 338
CI Disperse Red 339
CI Disperse Red 340
The old variety of red heterocyclic disperse dyes such as CI
Disperse Red 145, with nitrobenzene Thiazole is a diazonium
component, with excellent color and light performance, high
strength, light resistance, and good sublimation fastness. The
structure is as follows. The blue heterocyclic disperse dyes in-
clude thiophene, thiazole, isothiazole and tetrazole as the dia-
zonium component, and obtain bright color, high molar extinc-
tion coefficient and good fastness. For example: CI Disperse Blue 73
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CI Disperse Blue 295 (Sunlight 6~7, Sublimation 5)
CI Disperse Blue 356 (Sunlight 5~6, Sublimation 5)
CI Disperse Blue 361 ( Sunlight 7, sublimation 4)
CI Disperse Blue 367 (sunlight 7, sublimation 5)
PAGES
The disperse dyes used for printing on taperon superfine fibers are different from the disperse dyes for
dyeing, because the leveling problem of printing is not big, Dye penetration is low, there is no deep dyeing
problem, better fixing conditions, no wet fastness problem after reduction and cleaning, so first use dyes
to focus on sublimation fastness similar and high, and light fastness is also high. The following take the
PalanilP type disperse dyes of BASF Company and the Resolin disperse dyes of DyStar Company as
examples, which are some very general disperse dyes.
CI Disperse Yellow 5 CI Disperse Violet 35 CI Disperse Yellow 93
CI Disperse Orange 49 CI Disperse Blue 87 CI Disperse Orange 66
CI Disperse Red 91 CI Disperse Blue 148 CI Disperse Red 132
CI Disperse Red 92 CI Disperse Blue 94 CI Disperse Blue 165:1
How to distinguish whether denim is patch-dyed or rope-dyed?

As a technologist, distinguishing colors in the analysis process is also an important task, which
will directly affect the cost. How can I tell if the denim is patch-dyed or rope-dyed? Please en-
lighten me!
Piece dyeing means that the denim warp yarns are neatly arranged on the warping beam and passed
through a roller and several padding grooves. After they are dyed and dried, they are then interwoven with
the white weft yarn on the loom, so it is blue and white interweaving. The rope dyeing is made by piece-
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dying denim fabric whose warp and weft are all white yarns, and the whole is one color. It's just that the
piece dyeing of general denim is done by padding on a jig dyeing machine or a long cart.
Your question is whether you want to do rope dyeing before weaving or piece dyeing after weaving. I
personally think that the cost of rope dyeing must be higher than that of piece dyeing. Rope dyeing is a
single yarn coloring, and piece dyeing is a whole piece of warp yarn. Both the weft and the weft will be
colored, which can be used as a basis for judgment.
I also find it difficult to judge this. I only know that the piece-dyed cotton yarn looks flatter, while the rope-
dyed cotton yarn looks rounder.
It is very difficult to distinguish sheet dyeing
from rope dyeing. Can it be considered from
the following:
1 During sheet dyeing, the time of a single yarn
in the dyeing tank is the same, the effect of
the padding car on it is the same, the oxida-
tion frame is the same, the color is the same,
and the yarn elongation Consistent, the cloth
surface should be flat after washing, and the
degree of flower should be small.
2 Bundle dyeing is different. On the dyeing
tank, paddle, and oxidation rack, the unit is
bundled. The position of each bundle is dif-
ferent, and the color and elongation will be
different. After washing, it is not as flat as
the sheet dyeing. Bigger than Piandan.
3 In general, the dyeing tank for beam dyeing
is large, the dye liquor soaking time is long, the oxidation rack is high, the oxidation time is long, the
pressure of the padder is large, and the color fastness of beam dyeing is better.
According to the sample, it is necessary to consider the color, color fastness, and floweriness of the
sample at the same time. Which line of the company's equipment can be used, which line is the most
suitable, piece dyeing and beam dyeing are not absolute, no matter which line, As long as the color and
color fastness of the sample meet the requirements. (Source: China Textile Technology Information Network)
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Practical Application of Sulfur Dyes
PAGES By JR Aspland, School of Textiles, Clemson University, Clemson, S.C.
Sulfur dyes bridge the gap between directs and vats with respect to fastness properties, and these vary
widely within the dye class. End-uses for sulfur dyes include: continuous and batch dyeing of corduroy,
bottoming and topping indigo on the slasher or on indigo warp dyeing ranges, and nontraditional shades on
denim including black, gray, olive and tan. For deep shades of black, brown, blue and green, the fastness
properties of sulfur dyes are good and their use quite economical.
Sulfur dyes may be thought of as bridging the gap between direct dyes and vat dyes as far as fastness
properties are concerned, but they vary widely among themselves. Lightfastness is the most variable
property. and, as might be expected, this falls with decreasing depth of shade. However, because of their
economy and their relatively dull shades, sulfur dyes are rarely used in light depths except to shade other
sulfur colors.
Traditionally, the main use of sulfur dyes was for continuous dyeing of piece goods, such as corduroy, but
as continuous dyeing has declined, piece goods dyeing, particularly in jets, is on the rise. Sulfur dyes are
widely used in bottoming and topping indigo by dyeing on the slasher or on indigo warp dyeing ranges, and
with the growth of indigo, sulfur dyes have seen growth in the denim area for such nontraditional denim
shades as black, gray, olive and tan.
Where heavy depth, good fastness properties and economy are all needed, especially in black, blue,
brown and heavy green shades, sulfur colors are essentially irreplaceable. Sulfur colors do have generally
poor fastness to hypochlorite and peroxide bleaching. In fact, a quick preliminary test to determine whether
goods are dyed with sulfur or vat dyes is to spot a little domestic bleach on them and leave the spot to dry.
Most sulfur colors will be seriously changed or destroyed by this simple expedient, whereas most vat
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dyes will show little change. Obviously sulfurized vat dyes will give ambiguous results as do some vat
blues. Other fastness characteristics include:
Lightfastness (xenon arc): At heavy depths the lightfastness of sulfur dyeings ranges from about 3-4 for
yellows increasing through to 7 for blacks, with selected blues, greens, navies and browns generally
between 5-6 and 6-7.
2A Washfastness: The methods of washfastness testing vary from country to country and the AATCC
Technical Manual should always be referred to for current U S. practice. Sulfur dyes generally rate well on
the 2A wash test, giving average ratings of 4-5 for both the shade alteration of the original and the staining
of adjacent cotton.
These values can be affected adversely by oxidation with hydrogen peroxide, and advantageously by
post treatment with durable press or crease resist resins. Incidentally, these finishes also offer some
degree of protection against mild bleaching. In extreme cases, the wetfastness properties of sulfur dyeings,
along with the crock and rubbing fastness, can be made as horrible as the denim market seems to
require, by allowing inadequate time for diffusion, plenty of premature oxidation, little rinsing, no soaping-
off, and so on.
Color Characteristics: There is no doubt that sulfur dyes as a group have the least brightness of any dye
application category. But if they are augmented by a synthesized copper phthalocyanine green, and a
bright pinkish red, C.I. Sulfur Green 36 and Red 14, the range of heavy shades for which they are most
suitable lacks principally in the heavy red areas—areas which are filled by azoic combinations.
Dyeing Characteristics: Most dye application categories have hundreds of dyes and C.I. named prod-
ucts. The scarcity of sulfur dye manufacturers and the absence of truly equivalent products have left one
dominant supplier in the U.S. as the only one with a knowledge of the comparative dyeing properties of a
full range of sulfur colors. There is no good reason why this information should be divulged to any but
customers. As a result there is no generally available classification of sulfur dyes by their dyeing charac-
teristics.
Batch Dyeing Processes: Sulfur dyes are widely used in batch (and continuous) dyeing applications
since they can be applied on all types of dyeing equipment. General processes for batch dyeing on
various pieces of equipment are described in manufacturers’ shade cards.
Preparation and Water Quality: The best fastness and brightness results are always obtained on well
prepared fabric, and EDTA or other sequestrants are always desirable to take care of the problems which
result from too high concentrations of calcium and magnesium ions in the process water, or even from
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cotton when processed at very short liquor: goods ratios; e.g., in jets, jigs or package dyeing machines.
Nonetheless, many sulfur dyes are applied in heavy shades directly to greige goods, provided the size
PAGES used is not polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). Immature cotton is not generally a particular problem when dyeing
suifur dyes, and their coverage is frequently but not invariably superior to that of reactive dyes.
Blended Cellulosic Goods
If cotton is mercerized prior to dyeing, an apparent color yield increase of about 30% to 40% may be
anticipated. But there is not such certainty of increased yield if regen- erated cellulosic fibers (e.g.,
viscose) are used because they have such varied morphology. Some dyes, such as C.I. Sulfur Black I,
seem to cover all cellulosics fairly evenly at all depths, while others may show strong and increasing
contrast between different cellulosic fibers in blended fabrics as the concentration is increased. In these
cases the cotton usually dyes lightest. Selected sulfur dyes dye nylon and others dye acrylic fibers. Such
apparent aberrations are very important in dyeing blends.
Leuco-Sulfur Dyeing: Leuco-sulfur dyes are commonly referred to as sulfur liquids. Regardless of the
equipment to be used, the standard method of dyeing these products requires the following dyebath
additives; a penetrant (not a nonionic one), a polysulfide (as an antioxidant), common salt or sodium
sulfate (calcium free) and a chelating agent (usually EDTA). The procedure normally consists of the
o
following elements: wet-out the goods with the penetrant and rinse off; set a fresh bath, at about 40 C
o
<I00 F), with more penetrant, antioxidant and chelating agent; add the reduced dye slowly; add salt
o o o o
slowly; run for about 30 minutes; overflow wash at about 32 C (90 F); oxidize; rinse; soap at 90 C (195 F)
and rinse. There is a missing element: when and how high to raise the temperature to effect dyeing. As
is normal for anionic dyes on cellulose, the rate of dyeing increases with temperature. But the temperature
o
of maximum exhaustion varies among most reduced suIfur dyes.The optimum temperature is about 65 C
o o o o
(150 F), but blacks dye better at 90 C (195 F). This is not an upper limit, for temperatures as high as 120 C
o o o
(250 F) can be used, but the temperature of the bath must be lowered to around 70 C (160 F) for maxi-
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mum exhaustion before rinsing.

Whether it is better to add salt before or after the dyeing temperature has been reached depends to some
extent on the ease of making the addition. But to delay until some of the dye is already on the fiber is
probably best, since it minimizes the possibility of unlevelness. The amount of salt used varies from 5 to
10 grams per liter for pale shades up to 10 to 20 grams per liter for heavy shades. The absolute amount of
salt used per unit weight of fiber varies with the liquor-to- goods ratio of the dyeing. For example, a heavy
shade dyed at a liquor-to-goods ratio of 5:1 will require 5 to 10% salt owg, whereas the same shade dyed
at a 20:1 liquor-to-goods ratio will require 20 to 40% salt owg. Either way, exhaustion of greater than 95%
is normal. Compared with many reactive dyes, which have little intrinsic substantivity, these amounts of
salt are low and the exhaustion is very high—both of which are desirable from the environmental (effluent)
standpoint.
Low Sulfide Reduced Dyes: Low sulfide reduced dyes can be characterized as requiring no polysulfide,
but because of their lowered salt content, require somewhat more salt to exhaust properly. In a published
jet dyeing procedure which calls for a 10:1 liquor ratio, the dyes are fully reduced using 12% (50%) caustic
o
soda owg and 12% proprietary reducing agent owg, which is activated by raising the temperature to 75 C
o
(170 F) for 5 minutes; the salt, 35% owg, or about 30 grams per liter, is added, following the same
procedure recommended for direct dyeing, in three successive portions, each double the one before (5%,
o o
10% and 20% owg); the temperature is then raised to 90 C (195 F) followed by dyeing, cooling and the
normal succession of rinsing, oxidation, soaping, rinsing, etc.
Continuous Dyeing Processes: Since their introduction in the late 1930s, pre-reduced leuco-sulfur dyes
(sulfur liquids) have enjoyed a real processing advantage over vat dyes, which was held in check by the
ingenuity of the vat dye manufacturers in devising competitive procedures. The advantages were that the
dyes did not need to be dissolved in the dyehouse and that in continuous processing a drying step could
often be saved. However, in the last two decades, as the yardages of individual color orders got shorter
and shorter, sulfur dye makers and their customers had to face a problem caused by the high level and
range of substantivities of leuco-sulfur dyes in the padding operation. This was the difficulty of rapidly
establishing a consistent shade.
Conventional Processing (Pad-Steam): Besides leuco-dye, there is no need for additives other than
polysulfide and penetrant in the normal continuous dyeing of sulfur liquid dyes on cellulosic fibers. The
procedure is a foreshortened version of the application method for vat dyes, requiring only the following
pieces of functional equipment: pad; roller-steamer; washboxes, divided into at least three groups for
rinsing, oxidizing and washing, respectively; and drying cans.
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o o
The goods are padded through the liquid sulfur dyebath at anywhere from 38 to 82 C (100 to 180 F),
o
squeezed and passed into the steamer for 30 to 60 seconds in saturated steam at 102 to 104 C (215 to
o
218 F); i.e., a little over atmospheric boil. The goods are then rinsed, preferably at temperatures which rise
PAGES o o o o
from about 40 C (104 F) in the first washbox to 60 C (140 F) just prior to oxidation. The goods are then
oxidized in 5 to 10 grams per liter of a commercial mixture of sodium bromate catalyzed by sodium
vanadate with 1 to 2 grams per liter acetic acid, controlled to give pH of about 4. Oxidation is followed by
as vigorous washing as can be squeezed out of the remaining washboxes. With blacks it may include a
soaping and a final rinse through dilute soda ash solution.
There is a distinct strategy associated with the optimal use of the available washboxes. Some place the
emphasis on removal of loose color prior to oxidation, some on the removal of such color after oxidation.
The former would seem preferable.
Alternative Processing (Pad-Dry-Steam): The overall appearance of dyed cellulosic goods can some-
times be improved (at the cost of the intermediate drying) if the goods are first padded, then dried, then
repadded through a reducing bath prior to steaming. Otherwise, the same considerations apply as in
conventional processing.
Padding
When cellulosic fabrics first are padded through solutions containing substantive anions, such as leuco-
sulfur dye anions (as in sulfur liquids), there are several consequences. The goods are wet-out by the
solution, known as the pad bath or pad liquor; some of the substantive anion (dye) is preferentially sorped
by the fiber surfaces, lowering the concentration of this anion in the liquor wetting the goods; some of the
diluted liquor is returned to the pad trough when the excess liquor is squeezed from the fabric, at the nip;
the pad trough becomes progressively more dilute; subsequent goods passing through the diluted pad
liquor pick up less dye, and for some period of time the goods become progressively lighter in shade.
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Meanwhile, suppose that further pad liquor is being added to the pad trough from a feed tank at the
original concentration, to replace the liquid being carried off by the fabric. Eventually the rate at which dye
is being introduced into the pad from the feed tank (to maintain a constant volume) will become equal to
the rate at which dye is being removed by the fabric, and a steady-state, or dynamic equilibrium, will be
achieved. But the amount of dye on the goods leaving the pad will be less than that on the goods which
went through the pad initially, i.e., the concentration of the liquor in the pad trough will settle down to a
value less than that in the feed tank. In the meantime several hundred yards of goods may have been run
with gradually decreasing depth of shade and perhaps even changing hue.
Dyers have known about these considerations for a long time. They have known that they are only
important when applying dye anions of high substantivity, such as those of leuco-vat dyes and sulfur
liquid dyes, and they have developed the art, or skill, of partially overcoming the problems. For example,
if the steady-state condition has the liquor in the pad trough at a lower concentration than that in the feed
tank, it would be reasonable to start the process with this condition already satisfied, hoping that, as a
result, the concentration in the pad will stay more or less constant. It has also been well known that
decreasing the size of the pad trough diminishes the length of time needed to reach a steady state during
running goods continuously. Even the language of a continuous dyehouse reflects these phenomena with
inter-related phrases such as:
Strike Rate: The speed at which dyes transfer preferentially to the goods, due to their high substantivity.
Affinity Factor: The extent to which some dyes prefer the fiber to the pad liquor (another reference to
substantivity). The affinity factor is the ratio of the actual dye concentration (present on a fabric after
padding) to the concentration which would have been there if the dye had not been substantive. Feeding-
Up: Increasing the concentration of dyes in the feed tank to maintain a constant (lower) concentration of
dyes in the pad trough during dyeing. Tailing Effect: A gradual changing of the shade or depth of the
continuously dyed goods, with time. It helps to think of the goods leaving the padder as having undergone
a batch dyeing process of short duration in a dyebath where the dye has very high substantivity. The
following factors influence the achievement of the steady state: Pad Volume: Theory and practice agree
that the pad liquor must be turned over 1,5 to 2.0 times to achieve equilibrium; but although this implies
that the trough must be small, it must be big enough to allow for adequate wetting of the goods and little
or no cross-shading. There is a lower limit to how small the pad trough can be. Wet Pickup/Cloth Weight:
Both directly influence the rate at which the pad liquor is turned over. Range Speed: This influences both
the rate of pad liquor turnover and the time of exposure of dye to the goods; ie„ the immersion time. With
a travel from dip to nip of one meter, on a range running at 60 meters per minute, goods will only be
exposed to the pad liquor for one second before the nip. Goods passed through typical sulfur liquid pad
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liquor will pick up a certain amount of dye in this time, but can pick up about 80% more in two seconds
and 120% more in three seconds. This means that the level of the pad liquor and the speed of the range
PAGES must both be carefully controlled, or the depth of shade will vary. Such variation will destabilize any pad
liquor/feed tank concentration equilibrium which may have been achieved.
Dye Concentration/Temperature: Both these variables affect the rate of dyeing. With increasing dye
concentration, the dye anions tend to be less and less efficient at competing for the fiber; they compete
and interfere with one another as well, and gradually cease to behave as efficiently as single anions. As
a result, the affinity factor, like the percentage exhaustion at any given time, falls with increasing con-
centration. Raising the temperature should increase the rate of exhaustion, the activity of the dye anions
and the affinity factor, although the size of increase will vary from dye to dye. When it is possible to run
dark shades on very absorbent, heavyweight goods, with high wet pickup, at great speed, through low
volume pad troughs with good liquor level control—luck is on your side—the problems of tailing, affinity
factor, strike rate and feed-up will be minimized. But such situations are rare. Even more important is that
individual dyes have their own unique behavior and affinity factors. Dyers have traditionally had three
options:
• To run the feed and the pad liquor at the same concentration until equilibrium is established. This
approach accepts tailing (and second quality) and still requires great experience in guessing what the
shade will be when the tailing ends
• To run the feed at a higher concentration than the pad bath. This is done by feeding the pad and then
diluting the pad liquor with water before beginning the run. Only the experienced know how much
dilution is necessary, and it varies from dye to dye.
• To run the pad trough and feed tank with different formulations calculated to start and run without tailing.
Dyers have reduced continuous sulfur dyeing to an art, but very few dyers have the experience for such
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an attempt. While still on the complex subject of padding, it is worthwhile to point out padding variables
which can be controlled to reduce the problem of cross shading or side-center-side shade variation. The
first is the position of the manifold for the pad liquor feed from the mix-tanks. This could be placed
between the fabric and the fabric entry side of the pad trough; in the middle of the trough with fabric on
both sides; or between the fabric and the fabric exit side of the pad trough. The results indicate these
positions give most, less and least cross shading, respectively. The second is the width of the pad trough
relative to that of the fabric. Experience shows that when the edges of the fabric are far removed from the
sides of the pad trough, cross shading is minimized. But when the fabric is nearly as wide as the pad
trough, the cross shading is marked. This result appears to be caused by local concentration differences
of dye anions due to fluid flow (circulation) patterns in the pad box. Of course, any attempt to reduce
cross shading by increasing the pad width will automatically increase tailing by increasing the pad vol-
ume.
Special Problems: One problem with sulfur dyed goods, but seldom experienced, is acid tendering. In
severe conditions of heat and humidity, some few sulfur dyeings, notably black, can generate a small
amount of sulfuric acid within the cellulosic fibers, leading to tendering. AATCC Test Method 26-1989,
Ageing of Sulfur Dyed Textiles: Accelerated, is used to determine whether sulfur dyed textile materials
deteriorate under normal storage conditions. A combination of thorough washing before oxidation, alka-
line rinsing in the last washbox or even resin finishing appears to have eliminated complaints of tendering
for all practical purposes. Sulfur dyes are almost invariably standardized by dyeing methods, where a
standard and a sample are padded under the same conditions and the relative strength and shade are
assessed visually and/or instrumentally. They cannot be usefully standardized by transmission measure-
ments on their reduced solutions for two reasons: most reduced sulfur dyes are yellow in solution, and
therefore color discrimination is difficult if not meaningless; and most commercial sulfide and polysulfide
solutions are also yellow.
Review: Is it old fashioned to dye with sulfur dyes? This question was asked rhetorically (and in German)
by one of the leading sulfur dye experts in 1970. He answered then, and others have since, with a
resounding, “ No!” There are still problems to be handled regarding effluent treatment. While some prob-
lems are unique to sulfur dyes, effluent problems of one sort or another besiege many dye application
categories at this time. For example, fiber reactive dye manufacturers are wrestling with low fixation and
high levels of color and salts in the effluent. In all cases, if the public requires a cleaner environment, who
is going to pay the piper? Nevertheless, whenever economy in heavy shades, with moderate to good
lightfastness and good to excellent washfastness are required on cellulosic fabrics, sulfur dyes will be
there.
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NEW COMPANIES
New Textile & Allied Companies Registered with the Registrars of Companies in India (May 2021)
A TO Z CAP HOUSE PVT LTD C/O AJAY PD. GUPTA, S/O LT RAMCHANDRA PDLALBANTI MARKET, GORIYA TOLI, STN. ROAD | BIHAR | EMAIL: MYOFFICE648@GMAIL.COM
AADI SUSTAINABILITY SOLUTIONS PVT LTD C/O PARVINDER SINGH, NR SIR CHOTU RAM SCHOOL, VIKAS NAGAR, NAGAL KHERI | HARYANA | EMAIL: PARVINDERKADYAN@YAHOO.CO.IN
AAKASH YARN INDUSTRIES PVT LTD B-502, GRACE, VASANT MARVEL COMPLEX, OFF WE HIGHWAY, BORIVALI (EAST) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: AAKASHINDUSTRIES.YARNS@GMAIL.COM
ADHVESH WEAVING PRIVATE LIMITED ARVIND LIMITED PREMISESNARODA ROAD, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: AKSHAY.DODIYA@ARVIND.IN
ADIVANI INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED 188, JAMUNA LAL BAJAJ STREETGROUND FLOOR | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: SHANTICOTSYARN@GMAIL.COM
ADORED LINE (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED 20 DONGAR PALLI ROADDARANTA, | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SHAHIDTK93@GMAIL.COM
AEBY FASHION APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED H. NO- 101, GALI NO-6, JAGMAL ENCLAVE, ROSHAN NAGAR AGWANPUR | HARYANA | EMAIL: ABFASHIONS2021@GMAIL.COM
AGW APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED IX/6491, NEHRU GALIGANDHI NAGAR | DELHI | EMAIL: CA.ANISH@GMAIL.COM
AHDEM MAYS PVT LTD NO 2287 II FLR HAL 2ND STAGE OPP TONEW HARIZON SCHOOL INDIRA NAGAR | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: HEMAMSINGHAJITMANGANG@GMAIL.COM
AHV SPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED EDAVELIVEEDU, ARASUPARAMBU, 305(4), CHELLAMCODE, NEDUMAGADU P O | KERALA | EMAIL: MCAEFILING9@GMAIL.COM
AM PRET (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED P-2 C.I.T RD SCHEME 52KOLKATA | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: ARATRIKA.MITTER@GMAIL.COM
AMEES GLOBAL PRIVATE LIMITED NO.87, BANDAPURA, BOODIGARE CROSSOLDMADRAS RD, VIRGO NAGAR PO | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: USMAN@AMEESCLOTHING.COM
AMERICAN RULER PRIVATE LIMITED C/O MAHESH.P, NO.704KURUVIKULAM KN, SANKARANKOVIL | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: ROHITNAIDU.S@OUTLOOK.COM
ANAAYA THREADS (OPC) PVT LTD PLOT A-53, AT CHINCHOLI MIDC, TALUKA-MOHAL, NORTH-SOLAPUR, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: SHREESARASWATITEX@GMAIL.COM
ANMA MERCANTILE PRIVATE LIMITED L-27 SOUTH EXTENSION 2 | DELHI | EMAIL: ANKITMOHINDRA@YMAIL.COM
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ANTIGOMODCART PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT-B/740, SECTOR-8CDA, MARKAT NAGAR | ORISSA | EMAIL: LITSID@GMAIL.COM
ARCUS COTEX PRIVATE LIMITED BASEMENT NO. 17, VIKAS CENTRE, B WING, 106, S.V. ROAD, SANTACRUZ (W) | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: ARCUSCOTEX@GMAIL.COM
ARJU JAIN (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED NILANJANA GARDEN, 1ST FLOOR, FLAT-1B41/A S.N ROY ROAD LP-12/20/5 | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: JAINARJU90@GMAIL.COM
ARNAA TEXFAB PRIVATE LIMITED 4/A VIKAS CENTRE, 104, S V ROAD, SANTACRUZ W, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: AARNATEXFABB@GMAIL.COM
NCM-JULY 2021
ASC FASHION STORE PRIVATE LIMITED FL 401, WING D SN-51/2BAMMAR RESIDENCY, KONDHWA | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: ASCOLLECTIONSALES@GMAIL.COM
ASKTEX INNOVATIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 640-1A-S-3 PUSHPA RAJ CHKVENKATESH SENATE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: ASKTEXINNOVATIONS@GMAIL.COM
ATMANIRBHAR NYLONS PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 9-10, OPP M.L. PARMAR SCHOOL, KARANJ, TAL. MANDVI, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: INFO.ANPL123@GMAIL.COM
AVACADO TEXFAB PRIVATE LIMITED G. NO. 239, TANDE, TAL SHIRPUR, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: AVACADOTEXFAB@GMAIL.COM
AVEDA FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED P-17, MUNCIPAL QUATERS, MATCH FACTORYLANE, NEW BMC COLONY, KURLA (W) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: VISHAKHAJC@GMAIL.COM
AZHAGU IMPEX PRIVATE LIMITED D NO 1/25/3, MURUGAN KOVIL BACK SIDE, VENNAMALAI | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: CORPORATE@AZHAGUIMPEX.COM
BALAJI COT FIB PRIVATE LIMITED R.S.NO-389/2, RAJKOT-BHAVNAGAR HIGHWAYAT VIRNAGAR | GUJARAT | EMAIL: NIRAV@KPMD-CA.COM
BARKYLEO (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED C/O NIRMALA RANA, AT- BANGUARY, PS- BALIANTA | ORISSA | EMAIL: INFO@BARKYLEO.COM
BELCON TEX PRIVATE LIMITED 165-166, KRISHNA INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, KAPODRA CHAR RASTA, VARACHHA ROAD, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: SIDC227@GMAIL.COM
BERFFY LIFESTYLE PRIVATE LIMITED ST NO 6 8, SHIV SHAKTI VALKESHVAR SOC, SAHAKAR MAIN ROAD, CENTRAL ZONE, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: BERFFYINDIA@GMAIL.COM
BETTER-TRENDS PRIVATE LIMITED 723, GIDC ESTATEPHASE IV, VATVA | GUJARAT | EMAIL: BETTERTRENDWEAVERS@GMAIL.COM
BHARAT NETTING PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO C-7, VAATSALYA BUNGLOW, CHHARWADA ROAD, GOKUL VIHAR | GUJARAT | EMAIL: AGRAWAL.NIRAJ@HOTMAIL.COM
BHARATWALE PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO- 29, SECOND FLOOR, OM VIHARPH-II, UTTAM NAGAR | DELHI | EMAIL: AKASH.CHDRY02@GMAIL.COM
BLOOMGRRACE INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED GAT NO. 1459, SANT KRUPA HO. SOC.MHETREWASTI, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: PARASHRAMSKANDEKAR@GMAIL.COM
BRAAF LIFESTYLE PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. 20, SECOND FLOOR, DDA FLATSLADO SARAI, MEHRAULI | DELHI | EMAIL: YUMIXHA@GMAIL.COM
BUK EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED PANUHAT BOWALI PARAKATWA | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: RIPON.ME187@GMAIL.COM
BULLS AND BEARS CLOTHING PVT LTD C/O MOHAMMAD MOHSIN, S/O VAJID HASAN MOHALLA-MUGLUSHAH, NAJIBABAD | UP | EMAIL: MOHD.MOHSIN18@HOTMAIL.COM
NEW COMPANIES
CHANDRALAKSHMI DRESSES PRIVATE LIMITED 5/1C RAJA MANINDRA ROADGD FLOOR | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: ARCHOWDHURY1976@GMAIL.COM
CHERRYFIG COTEX PRIVATE LIMITED G. NO. 239, TANDE, TAL SHIRPUR, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: CHERRYFIGCOTEX@GMAIL.COM
CHILLCARE APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED 18, RATNAJYOT IND ESTATEIRLA LANE VILE PARLE(WEST) MUMBAI 400056 | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: DAIROUT@HOTMAIL.COM
CLASRI (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED H-NO. 195, LADFEM BICHOLIM | GOA | EMAIL: FSVREGCO01@GMAIL.COM
CONFORTE COLLECTIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 55, BLOCK C3ASHOK VIHAR PHASE 2 | DELHI | EMAIL: TFCTANEJA@GMAIL.COM
CROKNIT FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 276/20, GALI NO. 6NEAR HOLY CHILD SCHOOL, NARENDER NAGAR | HARYANA | EMAIL: LALITTIWARI28@GMAIL.COM
CROSMO INTERNATIONAL PRIVATE LIMITED 61-R, MODEL TOWN | HARYANA | EMAIL: RAJATLEEKHA1@GMAIL.COM
CROYDON FASHIONS PVT LTD NO. 35/7, GR & FIRST FLR, BASAPPA COMPLEX, HENNUR CROSS, KALYAN NAGAR POST | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: IJAZMARZOOK@COLOMBOGROUP.IN
CUBATICS TEXTILE PVT LTD 1007, B WING, EXPRESS ZONE, W. EXPRESS HIGHWAY, MALAD (E), NR PATEL UANIKA | MUMBAI | EMAIL: CUBATICSINDUSTRIES@GMAIL.COM
CUSTARD APPLE COTEX PRIVATE LIMITED G. NO. 239, TANDE, TAL SHIRPUR, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: CUSTARDAPPLECOTEX@GMAIL.COM
DAYALAKSHMI TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED Y.II.D.155TRIVENI PURAM | UP | EMAIL: CSLAVKUSH@GMAIL.COM
DEI GRATIA CREATIONS PRIVATE LIMITED DOOR NO 18/450, THEKKETHARAPAZHAYANNUR PO | KERALA | EMAIL: PHYSIOMITHUN@YAHOO.COM
DESI FINESSE PRIVATE LIMITED B-30, NEW LIGHT COLONYTONK ROAD | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: ANJUL@DESIFINESSE.COM
DI KALPS TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED 5 OLYMPUS INDL ESTATE, ANDHERI EAST, OFF. MAHAKALI CAVES ROAD, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: DIKALPSTEXTILES@GMAIL.COM
DOMESTAY PRIVATE LIMITED H. NO.-14B/37, DEV NAGAR, KAROL BAGH | DELHI | EMAIL: NAKUL@BUNKSTAY.COM
DOUBLEZERO FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED B-12, GAGAN ENCLAVE | UP | EMAIL: ER.PIYUSHSINGH019@GMAIL.COM
DRKELVIN LABORATORIES PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO 22 KHASRA NO 378 ALMAS BAGHBARAURA HUSSAIN BARI BALAGANJ | UP | EMAIL: DRKELVINLAB@HOTMAIL.COM
EARTH SPINTEX PRIVATE LIMITED AVADH RESI-B, TF. 301, N/R. ALAP ROYAL PALM, N/R. SWAMI GURUKUL, MAVDI, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: INFO@EARTHSPINEX.COM
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ECOZOR PRIVATE LIMITED USHUS HOUSE, POONTHONI, KARIPPODE POST, | KERALA | EMAIL: VISWANATHANAV1946JGD@GMAIL.COM
ELA ATTIRE PRIVATE LIMITED 25/1, SHAKESPEARE SARANI, | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: ELAATTIRE@GMAIL.COM
EMPRR LIFESTYLE PRIVATE LIMITED SF.NO 688/1A1A2C, MADUKKARAI ROADKURICHI VILLAGE, EACHANARY | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: PARTHI.MNRV@GMAIL.COM
EYA COLLECTION PRIVATE LIMITED 505, PUSHPA RATAN PARK, DEVGURADIA | MADHYA PRADESH | EMAIL: AKEYLESH@GMAIL.COM
NCM-JULY 2021
FABRISA CREATION PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 44-45, GALI NO. 2, OM NAGAR, MOHAN NAGAR, GHAZIABAD | UP | EMAIL: RITESHTHAKUR11ITS@GMAIL.COM
FABSTITCH PRIVATE LIMITED SHOP NO 05, BUILDING A, NATRAJ INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, DUNGRA | GUJARAT | EMAIL: SUNNYENTERP@GMAIL.COM
FABVASTRA PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO.33 DAIMAND NAGAR, H NAGAR | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: MAYURMAYKARKAR23@GMAIL.COM
FAR & FAST STREAM MARKETING PRIVATE LIMITED 190K/14C RAJROOPUPUR ALLD | UP | EMAIL: LEGALPILLERS@GMAIL.COM
FEATURE LIFESTYLES INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO. 166/2E, V. P MAIN ROADMADIWALA | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: NAGARJUNDHTECH@GMAIL.COM
FINE SPINTEX PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO.31/3, ASHWAMEGH ESTATECHANGODAR | GUJARAT | EMAIL: KMEGHANI.REAL@GMAIL.COM
FINOXYTRADE PRIVATE LIMITED NO. 61, 1ST FLOOR, 2ND CROSSSHANTHI NAGAR | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: INFO.OXYTRADE@GMAIL.COM
FIRST HOPE SOLUTION PRIVATE LIMITED VIRAJ ENCLAVE SAHASTRADHARA ROAD , MANDAKANI VIHAR | UTTARAKHAND | EMAIL: FSVREGCO01@GMAIL.COM
FLISKY PRIVATE LIMITED PANCH-GARHA, VILL-GARHA, TOLA-GARHADIST-SITAMARHI, BLOCK-PUPRI , W.N-13 | BIHAR | EMAIL: CSSAMEERKHAN@GMAIL.COM
FOUNTAINHEAD TEXTILES PVT LTD BASEMENT NO. 17, VIKAS CENTRE, B WING, 106, S.V. RD, SANTACRUZ (W) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: FOUNTAINHEADTEXTILES@GMAIL.COM
GARUDA YARNS PRIVATE LIMITED 2ND FLOOR, SHOP NO. 201 TO 204, ORLEAANS COMPLEX, U.M.ROAD, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: PRAKASH@EAGLEGROUP.CO.IN
GBKC GLOBAL PRIVATE LIMITED F-45, UPSIDC INDUSTRIAL AREA, SELAQUI, | UTTARAKHAND | EMAIL: INFO@GBKCFASHIONS.COM
GLOBAL WEST TRADE PRIVATE LIMITED 102/1, GREEN AVENUE , WARD 60, KOZHIPANNAI, MANGALAM ROAD | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: PRISMIMPEXINDIA@GMAIL.COM
GOCHIKKO INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED B - 64 SECTOR 63NOIDA | UP | EMAIL: CAYOGESHKUMAR@HOTMAIL.COM
GOLDENSEAM-WE SPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED NO.7, MAKALI VILLAGE, DASANAPURA, HOBLINELAMANGALA TALUK | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SANJEEV@GOLDENSEAMS.IN
GOODSY SERVICES PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 22 KHASRA NO. 207SHREE NIKUNJ COLONY CHARMOLI | UP | EMAIL: GOODSYSERVICES@GMAIL.COM
GRD DYEING PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO 645, SECTOR-29, PART-II, HUDA | HARYANA | EMAIL: GRDDYEING@GMAIL.COM
NEW COMPANIES
GROMON SERVICE INDUSTRY PRIVATE LIMITED B BLOCK FLAT NO.106, SECTOR-44 | UP | EMAIL: CAPRANJALGUPTA02@GMAIL.COM
GULANS INDIA (OPC) PVT LTD 232. TIWARIS, BSR, AKRUTHI GREENWOODS, KONASANDRA, JIGANI, NR VIVEKANANDA | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: GULANSINDIA@GMAIL.COM
HAREN PERFORMANCE FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO J - 194 MIDC TARAPUR TALPALGHAR | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: HTLDAHISAR@GMAIL.COM
HENZ RIDER OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED 88/94, CHAMAN GANJ | UP | EMAIL: RIDEROVERSEAS.CO@GMAIL.COM
HIVOLOMAR PVT LTD MANOHAR JOSHI, BANK COLONY, DO NAHARIABHOTIA PARAO, DIST. NAINITAL | UTTARAKHAND | EMAIL: MANOHARJOSHI1558@GMAIL.COM
IB-SAVVY PRIVATE LIMITED #24, 3RD CROSS, 4TH MAIN, VINAYAKA LAYOUT, NAGARBHAVI | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: BASAVARAJBANNURADVOCATE@YAHOO.IN
INARA POLYFAB PRIVATE LIMITED PL. 1-2, MARUTI NAGARKHOLVAD, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: DHARMIN99@GMAIL.COM
INTACT UNIFORMS PRIVATE LIMITED 10/155, UPPER GROUND FLOORGEETA COLONY | DELHI | EMAIL: INTACTUNIFORMS@GMAIL.COM
IVAAHN DESIGN & CONSULTANT (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED60, 2ND FLOORBLOCK D | DELHI | EMAIL: JATINVARMA@HOTMAIL.COM
J.M.W. STEEL PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 269, SECTOR-21, PH-IINDUSTRIAL ESTATE BARHI | HARYANA | EMAIL: JMWINDIA.HARYANA@GMAIL.COM
JAIDEN & JAISEN GARMENTS (OPC) PVT LTD SY NO 262-2B, DANTHERAPALLI VILLAGEGIDDALUR MANDAL | ANDHRA PRADESH | EMAIL: SANDYGOSA22@GMAIL.COM
JAISWAL COTTONS PRIVATE LIMITED BLOCK NO.63, SARKHANITQ KINWAT | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: NPJ121@GMAIL.COM
JAMDI THREAD CRAFT PRIVATE LIMITED D304, 3RD FLOOR, RANKA PLAZA APARTMENT157, WHEELER ROAD | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SUNILKOL1959@YAHOO.IN
JHS GARMENTS PRODUCER COMPANY LIMITED 3-A, 204, SHANTI PARKMOTI NAGAR ROAD, BHAYANDAR EAST | MUMBAI | EMAIL: JHSGARMENTS2021@GMAIL.COM
JOFIS GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED T1, CHANDRIKAPROJECT, OMR, THANDALAMTHIRUPPORUR | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: ILLAMUMA@GMAIL.COM
JULY EXPORTS (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED 311, B WING, 3RD FLOOR, AVISHKAR APARTMENT, MAKTAMPUR, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: JULYEXPORTSINDIA@GMAIL.COM
JUST INDIAN ART PRIVATE LIMITED A-12/13, A BLOCK, SECTOR 16 | UP | EMAIL: JOYSHREE.CHATTERJEE@GMAIL.COM
KALAK MART (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO 402 SAI PLATINUM SNO 258/4 B/H HONDASHOWROOM NR NY | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: RAJKUMARI648@HOTMAIL.COM
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KALP DENIM PRIVATE LIMITED F F, 159, SUGNOMAL CLOTH MARKETREVDI BAZAR, KALUPUR | GUJARAT | EMAIL: RANKALOKESH@YMAIL.COM
KARAGIRI INDIA PVT LTD UNIT F-1, ARTH VISHWA, F.P.NO. 353 SR NO 26/3456/1, KOREGAON PARK, LANE NO-5 | MUMBAI | EMAIL: KARAGIRIINDIAPVTLTD@GMAIL.COM
KARLEO STUDIO PVT LTD 2203/04, ANMOL PRIDE EXCEL COMPOUND, NR.HUNDAI SHOWROOM, GOREGAON (W) | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: STUDIO@KARLEO.COM
KARMBHAKTI TEX PRIVATE LIMITED 1, PRABHU DARSHAN SOCIETYSHYAMDHAM CHOWK, PUNAGAM | GUJARAT | EMAIL: DAMSRADADIA@GMAIL.COM
NCM-JULY 2021
KARUNA HI-TECH PRODUCTS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O PRITESH MANGILAL BHANDARI, ADALAT ROAD GANGAKHED | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: IMRADHIKAM@GMAIL.COM
KAYKARTIZO PRIVATE LIMITED A-1/6 A, KRISHNA NAGAR, | DELHI | EMAIL: CHAWLARUPESH23@GMAIL.COM
KAYSONS KNITS PRIVATE LIMITED 716-BAGGAR NAGAR ENCLAVE | PUNJAB | EMAIL: KNITKAYSONS8@GMAIL.COM
KISAH APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED METROPOLITAN CO OP HSG, P-62 CANAL SOUTH ROAD, LP-15/19/3 | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: YASHWI.KISAH@GMAIL.COM
KISHALAYA TEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED C/O - KISORI MOHAN JANA, VILL-JOYKUNDU, P.O-IRHPALA, P.S-GHATAL | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: JKBASHOKKUMAR@GMAIL.COM
KLATMAKVISION HOUSE PRIVATE LIMITED S/O RAM DHAN, PLOT NO. 22A/25BRAHM NAGAR ROHTAK ROAD | HARYANA | EMAIL: KLATMAK2021@GMAIL.COM
KOHBAR INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED INDRA DEVI W/O RAMDEV PASWAN, NEARPANCHYAT BHAWAN CHHAPAKIPARRI | BIHAR | EMAIL: KOHBARINDIA2021@GMAIL.COM
KUNDAN LAL GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED SHOP NO-305 AZAD MARKETDELHI | DELHI | EMAIL: MKWADHWA80@GMAIL.COM
LBDENIM PRIVATE LIMITED 6-231/3, 3 SHREYAS SOC, LP HOUSE, 4 FLROPP. SPORTS CLUB, NAVRANGPURA | GUJARAT | EMAIL: GMACCOUNTS@JKLINDIA.COM
LEAPTHREE VALUEHUB (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED 29, CHHATARPUR | UTTARAKHAND | EMAIL: LALITJOSHI123@GMAIL.COM
LINYARN TEXTILES LIMITED 16A, BRABOURNE ROAD | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: JUTE@KAMARHATTY.COM
LOI TEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED S.NO. 43/2, NEAR KHANDOBA MANDIRPIMPLE GURAV | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: LOITEXTILE4400@GMAIL.COM
MANISHKA ATTIRES (OPC) PVT LTD HOUSE NO PVT-5091 KH.NO.106/21/2 G/F, GALI NO- 113 BLK-B SANT NAGAR BURARI | DELHI | EMAIL: MAANAV700@GMAIL.COM
MARK ATHLEISURE (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED A2/409, PLOT NO. GH-04, SECTOR-137 | UP | EMAIL: BLY.ABHINAVSINGH@GMAIL.COM
MARU KESARI FABTEX PRIVATE LIMITED F-394, III PHASEMANDIYA ROAD | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: MARUKESARI@GMAIL.COM
MAVALA E-TRADING PRIVATE LIMITED PANDURANG NIWAS’ SN 18/2 SUKHSAGAR NGRKATRAJ | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: SANTOSHHANDE1977@GMAIL.COM
MAVEN COTSPIN PRIVATE LIMITED BASEMENT NO. 17, VIKAS CENTRE, B WING, 106, S.V. ROAD, SANTACRUZ (W) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: MAVENCOTSPIN@GMAIL.COM
NEW COMPANIES
MAXBEN TEXFAB PRIVATE LIMITED BASEMENT NO. 17, VIKAS CENTRE, B WING, 106, S.V. ROAD, SANTACRUZ (W) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: MAXBENTEXFAB@GMAIL.COM
MERAKI CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED OFFICE 1B127, 1ST FLR, WEWORK EMBASSYGOLF LINKS, CINNABAR HILLS | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SIKKA.RAHUL85@GMAIL.COM
MIRCHAL APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO. 234, S.K. NEW COLONY, SOPORE, | JAMMU & KASHMIR | EMAIL: CSMIRHUSSAIN@GMAIL.COM
MODERN CIRCUS PRIVATE LIMITED MANDEEP’S HOUSE 153 LANE NO 5PADMAVATI COLONY A KINGS ROAD | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: MD@MAADEES.COM
MODERNA YARNS INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED HOUSE NO. 599SECTOR 8 | HARYANA | EMAIL: SALUJA_SAHIL@HOTMAIL.COM
MOHAN INTERNATIONAL INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED SEC - 12 - HNO- 883 | HARYANA | EMAIL: MIINDUSTRIES52@GMAIL.COM
MOKOOSH DESIGN STUDIO PRIVATE LIMITED C/O PUSHPADEVI MARDAE-93, MADHURA NAGAR, | TELANGANA | EMAIL: MOKOOSHBYKHUSHBOO@GMAIL.COM
MR GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED 21 KHETRA MH MITRA ROAD, BLOCK-A, FLAT-C, 2ND FLOOR SALKIA, | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: P.KHERIA0988@GMAIL.COM
MYSA-REVELAR CREATIONS PVT LTD C/O MANCHAND, VILL NARAVALI, BASANTPUR POST- RAJ KA TAJPUR THANA SEOHARA | UP | EMAIL: MISYSO.CARE@GMAIL.COM
N.C. JOHN GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED POST BOX NO. 17, VAZHICHERRY | KERALA | EMAIL: CS@NCJOHN.COM
NATURETECH ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED 2633-A, 1ST FLOOR, HAMILTON ROADKASHMIRI GATE | DELHI | EMAIL: THELOOMLANE@GMAIL.COM
NAV HINDUSTAN SPINNERS PRIVATE LIMITED SF NO.223, METTUPALAYAM RD, NARASIMMANAICKENPALAYAM | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: SELVARAJAND1958@GMAIL.COM
NAVCHI OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED HOUSE NO. A-78SADUL GANJ | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: BHAWANIWOOLTEX@YAHOO.CO.IN
NAVYGUNJAN BOUTIQUE PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. A-2 II FLR, SIDDHI VINAYAK APARTMENT, C-969/70, SECTOR-B MAHANAGAR | UP | EMAIL: LKOFEALTY@GMAIL.COM
NEEDLE MASTER PRIVATE LIMITED S F 202, GALAV CHAMBER, SAYAJIGUNJ, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: PREETDV@GMAIL.COM
NEW ONE EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED F-36 SUMEL-8NR. AJIT MILL CHAR RASTA, RAKHIAL | GUJARAT | EMAIL: YUSUFMEMON573@GMAIL.COM
NILAIYANA STUDIOS PRIVATE LIMITED 6D (14)NEEDARAJAPAYAR STREET | PONDICHERRY | EMAIL: SWETAMATHUR.SNO@GMAIL.COM
NIPA VAIDYA CLOTHING PVT LTD 126, I FLR, D WING, SHANTA INDL PREM CHS LTD, IB PATEL MARG, GOREGAON (E) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: NIPAVAIDYACLOTHING@GMAIL.COM
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OJZE LIFESTYLE PRIVATE LIMITED P.NO.96, JEM VIHARBACK OF STADIUM, SANGANER | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: BAJAJ.SHUBH@GMAIL.COM
ONEATOM APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED B 5 7/5 THANDER PARA STATION RDL/M SANTOSHPUR RAILWAY STATION | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: MAMTAJ786@GMAIL.COM
ORC VENTURES PRIVATE LIMITED C/O ASHARAF , MARATH HOUSE2/338AG , AZA ARCADE, VADAKKEKAD P.O | KERALA | EMAIL: ORCVENTURES.IND@GMAIL.COM
OSHADI COLLECTIVE (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED 129/1, PETTAIKADU 2ND STREETSATHY ROAD, CHITHODE | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: NISHANTH.CHOPRA@GMAIL.COM
NCM-JULY 2021
OVASTA ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED VILL-BELEDANGA, CHANDITALA, | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: OVASTAENTERPRISES@GMAIL.COM
PACHAIYAPPAS INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED NO.16K/1, T.A. MUDALI STREET, | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: PACHAIYAPPASINDUSTRIES@GMAIL.COM
PAUL FIBRES PRIVATE LIMITED NO.3, 50 FEET ROADKRISHNASWAMY NAGAR | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: PAULFIBRESINDIA@GMAIL.COM
PICOTEE FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED 702, BOSTON BLOCK-6A, 7TH FLR S.JRBLUEWATERS, SILVER COUNTRY R | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: PICOTEEFABRICS@GMAIL.COM
PINENUT TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED G. NO. 239, TANDE, TAL SHIRPUR, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: PINENUTTEXTILES@GMAIL.COM
POLYLUX FABRICS PVT LTD E, SHOP-1114-1115, NEW TEXTILE MARKE, SURAT COTTON MILL COMPD, BEGAMPURA | GUJARAT | EMAIL: JITU.RAWAL1992@GMAIL.COM
POMEGRANATE COTEX PRIVATE LIMITED G. NO. 239, TANDE, TAL SHIRPUR, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: POMEGRANATECOTEX@GMAIL.COM
PONR PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT 2202, PRESTIGE KEW GARDENKARIYAMMANA AGRAHARA RD, YAMALUR | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: CORPORATE@SPICEROUTEBUSINESS.COM
PRAKRITI NONWOVENS PRIVATE LIMITED SHOP NO. 5, DATT ARCADE, CIVIL LINES | MADHYA PRADESH | EMAIL: CAAMDAJBP@GMAIL.COM
PRECIOUS HILL TEXTILES PVT LTD NO 177 6TH CROSS 4TH MAIN M P NLAYOUT OPP B D A PARK MALLATHAHALLI | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: ARUN.LORDKRISHNA.NC@GMAIL.COM
PRESTINE CLOTHINGS PRIVATE LIMITEDST. NO.2, MAHAVIR JI, INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, VILL. BHADHURKE, | PUNJAB | EMAIL: PRESTINECLOTHINGS@GMAIL.COM
PRISA INTERNATIONAL HUB PVT LTD TOUZI NO.146, GOPALPUR CHANDIGAR, BARASAT, NORTH 24 PARAGNAS | W. BENGAL | EMAIL: PRISA.INTERNATIONAL.01@GMAIL.COM
R2S TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED SY NO 62, 63, 64 PLOT NO 197, 2ND FLRTE-32A-01-5901-0-003 SK IND SOC U.M ROAD | GUJARAT | EMAIL: R2STEXTILES@GMAIL.COM
RAD INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED F2240 RAMCHANDRAPURA, RIICO INDUSTRIAL AREA, SITAPURA EXTENSION | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: ASHOK_YIT@YAHOO.COM
RADHA MADHAV INTERNATIONAL PRIVATE LIMITEDSHOP BEH. DENA BANK, JAYANTI NAGAR, UDHANA, SURAT, | GUJARAT | EMAIL: RADHAMADHAVINT@GMAIL.COM
RAMANA INDUSTRIES (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED B-6-186/1, STREET NO. 6MADHOPURI | PUNJAB | EMAIL: DIRECTORRAMANAMACHINES@GMAIL.COM
RAMAPATI SYNTHETIC PVT LTD B 05 KANCHAN PUSHPA CHS, MAHIM RD, NEAR SAI RESIDENCY HOTEL PALGHAR | MUMBAI | EMAIL: SKENTERPRISES353@GMAIL.COM
NEW COMPANIES
RAMDHANU FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED 33/2, BEADON STREET, | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: PURNASISDUTT@GMAIL.COM
RAMESHWARAM INTERNATIONAL PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. 4, G/F JAYANTI NAGAR, PATEL COLONY, N/R DENA BANK, SURAT | GUJARAT | EMAIL: RAMESHWARAMINT@GMAIL.COM
RB POCHAMPALLY HANDLOOMS AND HANDICRAFTS PRODUCER CO. LIMITED H NO 5-18 PUTTAPAKA, NARAYANPUR | TELANGANA | EMAIL: BALURBA@GMAIL.COM
RIGHT APPARELS EXPORTS PVT LTD C/O T R RAJANI, SY NO 38, 40 FEET ROADKHADAR NAGAR, BATAWADI, KASABA HOBLI | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SPASSOCIATES1817@GMAIL.COM
RISHAANK FASHIONS ACCESSORIES PRIVATE LIMITED 37KALI KRISHNA TAGORE STREET | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: MRBAID.RAHUL@GMAIL.COM
RM CHATURA FASHIONS (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED 4-8-12, INDIRA NAGAR, PEDA WALTAIRPO LB COLONY | ANDHRA PRADESH | EMAIL: MANASACRM64@GMAIL.COM
ROSAP PRIVATE LIMITED F NO. 13, WING N, SR. NO. 229 (PART)230 A/1 TO 5, LOHGAON, VIMAN NAGAR | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: ROSHNIRATHI16@GMAIL.COM
ROSEMERC FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED D-4, 201 ATLANTIS, FORTUNE SOUMYAKATARA HILLS | MADHYA PRADESH | EMAIL: ROSEMERCFASHION@GMAIL.COM
RUANSHI DIVINE GRACE PRIVATE LIMITED IV/1678-B UG/F, OLD PLOT NO.31GALI NO. 2, MAHAVIR BLOCK, | DELHI | EMAIL: SONIA.TANDON2011@GMAIL.COM
SAHNI THREADS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O RAJESH KUMAR NISHAD, GHARI GHATBABAN ROAD, GHARI GHAT, DHARI GHAT | UP | EMAIL: SUPPORT@SAHNITHREADS.COM
SAMAKSH SHIKHA PRIVATE LIMITED 62FF MAHILA COLONYGANDHI NAGAR | DELHI | EMAIL: SAMAKSHENTERPRISESDELHI@GMAIL.COM
SANGAL INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED C/O JITENDRA TRADERS, SHOP NO.169/17, COURT ROAD | UP | EMAIL: DIRECTOR@SANGALINDUSTRIES.COM
SANJEEV TEXTILES & FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED B15, CITY CENTER, S C ROAD, | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: SANJEEVTEXTILES@REDIFFMAIL.COM
SANTHOSH FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED NO 299, RAJA STREET, PADI | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: SHEEBARATHNA@GMAIL.COM
SAPPHIRE EDISON (OPC) PVT LTD RS NO. 767/19 B PLOT NO. 4 SANMITRA COLONY, GURUKRUPA NIVAS, HANUMAN NAGAR | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: GAWADEJOTIBA21@GMAIL.COM
SAVITRIDEVI TECHNITEX INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO.136/B, SURVEY NO. 72, SVCIELIDA BOLLARAM, JINNARAM MANDAL | TELANGANA | EMAIL: VISHAMBER.GARG@YAHOO.CO.IN
SHILPA AGENCIES TEXTILE DIVISION PRIVATE LIMITED 7/18, TILAK NAGAR, PARWATI BANGLA ROAD, | UP | EMAIL: SHILPA.AGENCIES123@GMAIL.COM
SHIVA PRABHA SYNTHETICS PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. 601, SNEHVILLA, NR-SWARSANGINITAL-SURAT | GUJARAT | EMAIL: CA.ADITYA.JALAN@GMAIL.COM
SHIVKARMA CLOTHES PVT LTD A-038, SUMEL BUSINESS PARK-4, NEW GUJART SYNTHENTIC MILL COMPD, SARASPUR | AHMEDABAD | EMAIL: INFO@UNITEDPOLYFAB.COM
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SHREE KDF CREATIONS (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. 1101 11TH FLOOR MI RUSTLE COURTGOMTI NAGAR EXT | UP | EMAIL: CAARPITGUPTA12@GMAIL.COM
SHREE VISHWANATH SILKS MILLS PRIVATE LIMITED D 37/91 SHOP BARADEO | UP | EMAIL: KAMLESHMAURYA9825@GMAIL.COM
SKV SUPER SPINNERS PRIVATE LIMITED 107SARAF RESIDENCY, BETIAHATA | UP | EMAIL: SKVSPINNER@GMAIL.COM
SOMANI TRENDS PRIVATE LIMITED 68 JESSORE ROADROOM NO 512, 5TH FLOOR | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: JOYSANYAL86@GMAIL.COM
NCM-JULY 2021
SOUTH LOVE (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED BLOCK 2, 503, MYHOME VIHANGA | TELANGANA | EMAIL: VAPARNAB@GMAIL.COM
SRIVALSA EXPORTS GLOBAL CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED 49/84 M.G. PUDHUR2ND STREET | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: RAJESH@SRIVALSA.CO.IN
STACK METRIC PRIVATE LIMITED OLD NO.9 NEW NO.17, SEETHAMMAL ROADALWARPET | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: STACKMETRICPVT@GMAIL.COM
STEVE JHONSON PRIVATE LIMITED A-405 4TH FLOOR TRIDENT EMBASSYGH 05 B SECTOR 1, GREATER NOIDA WEST | UP | EMAIL: BHUAJAYSINGH85@GMAIL.COM
STUFFGRAM PRIVATE LIMITED SHOP NO. F-12K.B MALL 15, SNEH NAGAR | MADHYA PRADESH | EMAIL: STUFFGRAM.COM@GMAIL.COM
SUI DHAGA GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED SAHABABAD, DAREKHUP.O. JAGATPUR | UTTAR PRADESH | EMAIL: KARANMODI30@GMAIL.COM
SULBERA CLOTHES MANUFACTURERS PVT LTD HOUSE NO. 114 PHASE II BANKE BIHARI NILAY COLONYBABAI RD | MP | EMAIL: RAJPUTJOGENDRASINGHRAJPUT@GMAIL.COM
SULINI TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED 3158, MILLENIUM 4, BHATHENA, NR. SIDDHIVINAYAK TEMPLE, UDHNA | GUJARAT | EMAIL: JITU.RAWAL1992@GMAIL.COM
SUPREME INDIA POLYESTERS PVT LTD NO.C-201, RAINBOW ENCLAVESUGUNAPURAM (E), MYLKAL, KUNIYAMUTHUR | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: SUPREMEPOLYESTERS@GMAI.COM
SUUMAYA TRENDS PVT LTD GALA NO.5F/D, MALAD INDL UNITS, KACHPADA, RAMCHANDRA LANE, MALAD (WEST) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: CS@SUUMAYALIFESTYLE.COM
SWASTH CREATIONS PRIVATE LIMITED D.NO 2-52, NEAR GRAM PANCHAYAT OFFICEMUTHYAMPET. | TELANGANA | EMAIL: M.NAVEENKUMARCA92@GMAIL.COM
SWIN BLUE INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED SITE #40 GROUND FLOOR, NEMMADHI LAYOUT, MASTHENAHALLI VILLAGE, | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SRIKANTH.STAR@YAHOO.IN
TAAIGA MERCHANDISE PRIVATE LIMITED NO.13/9/8, UNIT-1, 5TH CROSSH.S.M.I INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, OKALIPURAM | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: DEEPEN27@GMAIL.COM
TANIA CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED C/O MOUSUMI MALLICK, RAJARAMPURMALLICK PARA N/L-MASJID TALA, BUDGE BUDGE | W. BENGAL | EMAIL: ARGHOB8@GMAIL.COM
TAPTA DESIGNS PRIVATE LIMITED NO 6 NINAAD LOTUS VILLAS, LAKE VIEW, K CHANNASNDRA, HORAMAVU, | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SHARMILA.KULKARNI89@GMAIL.COM
TED PAUL CLOTHING PVT LTD RZ-2802 A, III/FLOOR, RIGHT/SIDEGALI NO-31, TUGHLAKABAD EXTN. NEW DELHI | DELHI | EMAIL: DHRUVCHAUHAN0997@GMAIL.COM
TED SMITH FASHION RETAIL PRIVATE LIMITED D-146, BASEMENT, EAST OF KAILASHNEW DELHI - 110065 | DELHI | EMAIL: GURPREETSINGH1980@GMAIL.COM
NEW COMPANIES
TEXTILA TEXFAB PRIVATE LIMITED BASEMENT NO. 17, VIKAS CENTRE, B WING, 106, S.V. ROAD, SANTACRUZ (W) | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: TEXFABTEXTILA@GMAIL.COM
THAPAK GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED 30SHANTI NAGAR COLONY. MHOWGAON | MADHYA PRADESH | EMAIL: DHARMENDRA25051971@GMAIL.COM
THOUGHTFUL CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED NO.331-336, RAHEJA ARCADE, KORAMANGALA, | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: SUDHAKAR.M@TALLYSOLUTIONS.COM
TRIKOEN APPAREL AND LIFESTYLE (OPC) PVT LTD 8/86G , 6, SELVALAKSHMI NAGAR, EAST WEST2ND ST ANGAERIPALAYAM MAIN RD | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: LEE@VERDUNWORLD.COM
URBASY (INDIA) APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED UNIT NO. 208, A WING 2ND FLOOR CRYSTALPLAZA, NEW LINK RD, ANDHERI (W) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: AMIT@URBASY.CO.IN
VADIVAMBAL SPINNING MILLS PVT LTD D.NO.45, HARUR MAIN RD, KADATHUR POST, PAPPIREDDIPATTI TALUK | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: MUTHUMITHRAA@GMAIL.COM
VANDAAN STYLE PRIVATE LIMITED 207, FLOOR-2, NAVNIDHI INDL ESTATE, ACHARYA DONDE MARG, SEWREE | MUMBAI | EMAIL: VANDAANFASHIONINDIA@GMAIL.COM
VENKATA UMASANKAR TEXTILES PVT LTD SURVEY NO.33, 35/1, VEMAVARAM VILL, PHIRANGIPURAM MANDAL | ANDHRA PRADESH | EMAIL: VENKATAUMASANKARTEXTILES5@GMAIL.COM
VERA FASHION WORLD PRIVATE LIMITED 30 SATKARSTHAL KHEDRAJGURUNAGAR (KHED) PUNE (CT) | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: PATEKAR23037546@GMAIL.COM
VICTORIAN ROSA (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED S-15/01DLF-III | HARYANA | EMAIL: CATHY@VICTORIANROSA.COM
VIENA LIFESTYLE PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO C-1 FIRST FLOOR, KHNO 14/14HARIJAN BASTI, PALAM VILLAGE, DABRI | DELHI | EMAIL: S.VIJSKMG@GMAIL.COM
VIJAYLAKSHMI CREATION INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED 93-94, RISHI GALAV NAGAR, GALTA GATE, | RAJASTHAN | EMAIL: VLCREATIONS21@GMAIL.COM
VIRASAT PARAMPARA HANDLOOM & HANDICRAFT PRODUCER CO LTD B/H KANKUPARK BHAGYODAY, BAY-PASS RD J NAGAR, DUDHREJ | GUJ | EMAIL: NAGARBHAIPATOLA@GMAIL.COM
VISHWAKARMA COTSPIN PVT LTD SHOP NO B-009 SUMEL BUSINESS PARK-4 NEW GUJARAT SYNTHETIC MILL COMPD, SARSPUR | AHMEDABAD | EMAIL: INFO@UNITEDPOLYFAB.COM
VKK INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED BHUKHRI KALAN, NEAR T.P JAIN COLLEGE | PUNJAB | EMAIL: VINODJAINLDH@GMAIL.COM
VOPA INTERNATIONAL PVT LTD SUMAN KUNJ, PEELI KOTHINEAR RUDRAKSH GARDEN, JASPUR KHURD | UTTARAKHAND | EMAIL: SHARMAVIKAS1973@GMAIL.COM
VR LIFESTYLES PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 85, SECTOR 18 | HARYANA | EMAIL: INFO@THELINENFACTORY.IN
WILDLOTUS TEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO-65FOREST PARK, UNIT-I | ORISSA | EMAIL: PANKAJ@MGMM.IN
XEOM FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 11TH FLOOR, 1106, H BLOCK, VVIP ADDRESSES, RAJ NAGAR EXTENSION, | UTTAR PRADESH | EMAIL: ANKIT.SEE@GMAIL.COM
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XHALE APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED 5TH FLOOR, FARIRY MANOR, 13, FORT, | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: SAMDALAL@GMAIL.COM
YASHRI NILESH GHANSHYAM SILKS PRIVATE LIMITED D 53/92-93-1, GURUBAGHLUXA ROAD | UTTAR PRADESH | EMAIL: GHANSHYAMSILKS@YAHOO.IN
LIST OF LIMITED LIABILITY PARTNERSHIP (LLP) FIRMS REGISTERED DURING MAY 2021
NCM-JULY 2021
ADHYA SHINE PROJECTS LLP SHOP NO. 16, 5TH FLOOR, AAGAM ORCHID, VESU, | SURAT | GUJARAT | EMAIL: 7SHINEPROJECTS@GMAIL.COM
AELIN CLOTHINGS LLP E/2002 UNIQUE VAIBHAV SOCIETYTIRUPATI NAGAR PHASE 1 | THANE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: YASHGADEY99@GMAIL.COM
AJAPS ENTERPRISES LLP PANCHVATI BUILDING H PLOT 704SN 14/1A &16 PART SATARA R | PUNE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: AJAPSENTERPRISES@GMAIL.COM
APURI TEX LLP 133, 1ST FLOOR, CAPITAL SQUARE, PARVAT GAM MAIN ROAD | SURAT | GUJARAT | EMAIL: RAMVETHA@GMAIL.COM
BALRAJ APPAREL LLP 831, III FLR, MAHAVIR NGR., NR. HINGBAZ MATA’S MANDIR, BAPUNAGAR, | AHMEDABAD | GUJARAT | EMAIL: POLLIBOYKIDS@GMAIL.COM
CBSS CREATIONS LLP 2(8), MURUGAPALAYAMTIRPUR | COIMBATORE | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: CBSS3675@GMAIL.COM
CHARAT ENTERPRISES LLP A/5/3 NUTAN JEEVAN CHS LTD. KRIPA NAGAR, S.V. RD, VILE PARLE (W) OPP. JAIN MANDIR | MUMBAI | EMAIL: ALWAYSCHARAT@GMAIL.COM
DITTO BOSS LLP H NO 178 GALI NO 29SADARPUR COLONY | GAUTAM BUDDHA NAGAR | UTTAR PRADESH | EMAIL: DITTOBOSSLLP@GMAIL.COM
DRS DANIM LLP LIG H.NO. 60, SECTOR M, AYODHYA NAGAR, | BHOPAL | MADHYA PRADESH | EMAIL: RAHULMAJHI30@GMAIL.COM
EARNESTNESS LLP A 7 UGF F/S FLAT KH N0 161 MINRAJPUR KHURD EXTN | SOUTH DELHI | DELHI | EMAIL: ALEX08.VS@GMAIL.COM
ETHNIC GARAGE NETWORK LLP 178 LHS GRD FLOORARUN VIHAR NOIDA SECTOR 28 | GAUTAM BUDDHA NAGAR | UP | EMAIL: SARALGOGIA27@GMAIL.COM
EURO DENIM LLP C/O BRAJESH KUMAR, S/O BONO PANDEY | MOHALI | PUNJAB | EMAIL: TARUNAGOELCS2@GMAIL.COM
FABNEST IMPEX LLP HOUSE NO. 1576SECTOR 24 | PANIPAT | HARYANA | EMAIL: FABNESTIMPEX@GMAIL.COM
GORAL ENTERPRISES LLP NO.491/001, MANA RESIDENCY, 4TH CROSS, 3RD STAGEBEML LAYOUT, RR NAGAR | BANGALORE | EMAIL: GINBAB1969@GMAIL.COM
HARIMA FABTEX LLP WARD NO 10/571, ICHALKARANJI | KOLHAPUR | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: AROONHR@YAHOO.COM
JAY AMBE DESIGNER LLP 510 TO 511, NORTH EXTENSION, NEAR A.P.M.C. MARKET, RING ROAD | SURAT | GUJARAT | EMAIL: JAYAMBEDESIGNERLLP@GAMIL.COM
JAYMALA SPINTEX LLP OPP SURPUR BUS STANDAT SURPUR | SABAR KANTHA | GUJARAT | EMAIL: JAYMALASPINTEX@GMAIL.COM
NEW COMPANIES
JFW INDIA LLP B1/H3, MOHAN COOPERATIVE INDUSTRIAL AREAMATHURA ROAD, BLOCK B | NEW DELHI | DELHI | EMAIL: SUNANDHA@JYOTI-FAIRWORKS.ORG
JUMO COUTURE LLP UNIT NO 122 1ST FLOOR KUBER COMPLEXNEW LINK ROAD ANDHERI WEST | MUMBAI | EMAIL: MANOJ@COMACOE.COM
KULDEEP SONS HOME LLP UNIT NO. 981, 09TH FLOOR, AGGARWAL CYBER PLAZA II, NETAJI SUBHASHPLACE | DELHI | EMAIL: NSINGLA@RIVIERATEX.COM
KUSHA HOME LLP UNIT NO. 981, 09TH FLOORAGGARWAL CYBER PLAZA II, NETAJI SUBHASH PLACE | DELHI | EMAIL: VISHESH@RIVIERATEX.COM
LARISSA BONESI LLP 103 MAGNUM OPNS, B WING, BUNGLOWS 7, VERSOVA ROADANDHERI WEST | MUMBAI | EMAIL: ADITYAPANCHOLI@HOTMAIL.COM
LIAB LIFE LLP LOKURUKSHA H1, FLAT 603, LOKUPWAN PHASE 2, POK RD 2, | THANE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: NAMRATADEEPAKSHARMA1982@GMAIL.COM
MAARK BOUTIQUE LLP 266, THIRUMAGAL NAGAR 2ND STREET, SOWRIPALAYAM | COIMBATORE | TAMIL NADU | EMAIL: MAARKMD@GMAIL.COM
MAC AN LUIN OUTFIT LLP NO 2/1, ABOVE ISWARAYA SUPER MARKET, AMBALIPURA VILL, NR BELLANDUE POLICE STATION, SARJAPUR | BANGALORE | EMAIL: SARATHRAMS@GMAIL.COM
MASALA THREADS INDIA LLP FLAT NO 202, BELLA ROSE APARTMENTS, 29/30 REBELLO, BANDRA WEST | MUMBAI | EMAIL: INFO@MASALATHREADS.COM
MATUSHREE KRUPA LLP FLOOR 2ND, PLOT 42/48, CHINTAMANI BLDG, P HPUROHIT LANE, CANVEL 1ST X LANE, RAMWADI, KALBADEVI | MUMBAI | EMAIL: JAIN.AVANTI10@GMAIL.COM
NARMADA PACKAGING INDUSTRIES LLP 404, ISCON EMPORIO, NR STAR INDIA BAZAR, NR JODHPUR CROSS RD, SATELLITE | AHMEDABAD | EMAIL: SUDERSHANPODDAR@GMAIL.COM
NYSA INDUSTRIES LLP C 213, 2ND FLOOR, ANTOP HILL WAREHOUSING, VIDYALANKAR COLLEGE MARG, WADALA (E) | MUMBAI | EMAIL: INFO@NYSATEX.IN
PANX FASHION STUDIOS LLP PLOT NO 658, INDUTRIAL AREA, PHASE I | CHANDIGARH | CHANDIGARH | EMAIL: JOHARASHWIN@GMAIL.COM
PERSHOPPE TRADING LLP WZ 1/37 G/F EXBHARI NAGAR | WEST DELHI | DELHI | EMAIL: PERSHOPPEINDIA@GMAIL.COM
PERTEX SOLUTIONS LLP 101, MANJUSHREE, PLOT 2 HATKESH LTD, V.M. RD, JVPD VILE PARLE (W), NR JUHU POLICE ST | MUMBAI | EMAIL: INFO@KUSUMGAR.COM
POP & AWE LLP 1ST FLR 25 SEJ PLAZA MARVE ROAD MALAD WESTNR NUTAN VIDYA MANDIR SCHOOL | MUMBAI | EMAIL: ANANYA@POPPABUM.COM
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POSRO COLLECTIVE LLP H.NO. GS 15, PADMAVATI TOWERS18TH JUNE ROAD | NORTH GOA | GOA | EMAIL: RKCS.GOA@GMAIL.COM
PRINTFRILL LLP 13/1 G/F GAS GODOWN STREET ASHOK VIHAR, PHASE 3, | GURGAON | HARYANA | EMAIL: PRINTFRILL@GMAIL.COM
PRISAN IMPEX LLP PLOT NO W 345, OFFICE NO A 801, TTC MIDC RABALE | THANE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: PRIYANKAGARMENT71@HOTMAIL.COM
NCM-JULY 2021
SAVLA FABRICS LLP 15 1ST FLOOR 381 A NAROTTAM WADI381 A NAROTTAM WADI KALBADEVI ROAD | MUMBAI | EMAIL: SAVLA78@GMAIL.COM
SHAH BROTHERS CLOTHING LLP TAL INDAPUR DIST PUNEHNO 416 | PUNE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: SHAHBS333@GMAIL.COM
SHILPI EXPORT LLP S 2/638 A, CLUB ROAD, SIKRAULNEAR CHANDRA CHAMBERS, SHEOPUR | VARANASI | UTTAR PRADESH | EMAIL: ANURAGCHA@GMAIL.COM
SHREE AMBAJI INTERNATIONAL LLP SHOP NO. J 102, J BLDG, INDIA TEXTILE MARKET, KAMELA DARWAJA, RING RD | SURAT | GUJARAT | EMAIL: SHREEAMBAJIFIBRES1993@YAHOO.IN
STITCH PLUS LLP PLOT NO. 21, BHUWENESHWARI VATIKA VISTARSIRSI RD, MEENAWALA, PANCHYAWALA | JAIPUR | RAJ | EMAIL: MADHUKAR.TANK21@GMAIL.COM
SWALLOWIANS INTERNATIONAL LLP DOOR NO 33/594A, NAKAPPADY BLDG, DESHABIMANI RD, ELAMAKKARA | ERNAKULAM | KERALA | EMAIL: INFOAJESH@GMAIL.COM
THOLIYA BUSINESS SOLUTION LLP 18, RABINDRA SARANI, PODDAR COURT, GATE NO 1, 8TH FLR, ROOM NO 816 | KOLKATA | EMAIL: JAIN.CHANDRA2000@GMAIL.COM
TIPTOE ELEGANCE LLP SHOP NO. 3, SILVER ARCHANAND KOLIWADA, MUMBRA | THANE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: JAYESHJACKY@YAHOO.CO.IN
TOP N TUFF BAGS & FOOTWEAR MATERIALS LLP I 83, FLOOR 8, PLOT 227, NARIMAN BHAVAN, V K SHAH MARG, NCPA, NARIMAN POINT | MUMBAI | EMAIL: HITEN_22B@HOTMAIL.COM
UDAN FASHION HUB LLP FLAT NO.004, SHIVAM APPARTMENTHENDREPADA | THANE | MAHARASHTRA | EMAIL: UDAY.NAIR75@GGMAIL.COM
UN-CUFFED CLOTHING LLP NO. 219, 5TH CROSS, HRBR LAYOUT3RD BLOCK, KALYAN NAGAR | BANGALORE | KARNATAKA | EMAIL: EHTASHAM.HUSSAIN@GMAIL.COM
UNIPACK DESIGN LLP HOUSE NO 182BLOCK I, ASHOK VIHAR PHASE 1 | NEW DELHI | DELHI | EMAIL: AKANKSHONLINE@GMAIL.COM
UNITEDBUCK LLP VIVEKA NANDA NAGAR, BHAKTINAGARSALUGARA | DARJEELING | WEST BENGAL | EMAIL: RONITRBUSINESS@GMAIL.COM
VINIT GLOBAL LLP 45&46 UDYAN INDUSTRIAL ESTATE3 PAGLADANGA ROAD | KOLKATA | EMAIL: VINIT@VINITGLOVES.COM
VLK VENTURES LLP 9/1242 F/F SUBHASH ROADGANDHI NAGAR NEAR PUSTA ROAD | EAST DELHI | DELHI | EMAIL: VARUNGANDHIVLK@GMAIL.COM
Smart Textiles:
A Toolkit to Fashion the Future
a)
Rebecca R. Ruckdashel, Dhanya Venkataraman, and Jay Hoon Park
Department of Plastics Engineering, University of Massachusetts Lowell, Lowell, Massachusetts 01854, USA
a) Author to whom correspondence should be addressed: Jay_Park@uml.edu
Abstract
Smart textiles are adaptive materials that use established textile methods to integrate multifunctionalities be-
yond apparels. Despite recent advancement, a significant gap exists between commercial needs and the aca-
demic state of the art. In this perspective, we aim to address the gap by (i) holistically investigating smart textile
system operation, (ii) exploring production methods and materials for stimuli-responsive smart textiles, (iii)
discussing key emerging application areas for stimuli-responsive textiles, and (iv) identifying markets, produc-
tion techniques, and strategies for future development. Stimuli-responsive smart textiles rely on materials and
processes to interact with the environment and wearer. Smart textile applications, such as assistive soft robot-
ics, smart healing, and thermal comfort regulation, require textiles to meet the needs of form and function.
Smart textile commercialization requires the identification of markets ready for adaptive textiles, wherein a
smart phone or patch does not address the consumer needs. Interdisciplinary collaborations can focus efforts
to the right applications, bridging the gap between academic research and product relevance, bringing smart
textiles into the future.
Introduction required for smart textiles. Wearer re- tering the fabric itself, e.g., by making
quirements for the smart textile phys- the fabric conductive, dielectric or pi-
Smart textiles are creative artifacts ical form include appearance, function- ezoelectric with polymer selection,
that are adaptable to changing needs ality, ruggedness, and safety. Smart addition of metals, or finishing tech-
1 3,32,46,47
and empower experiential learning. textiles must be comfortable to wear: niques. Whichever method is
They convert stimuli into responses, soft, lightweight, tactile, and form-fit- used, the electronic components—sen-
interacting dynamically with five sens- ting. Smart interactions can be de- sors, actuators, energy harvesters, or
es—olfactory, visual, auditory, haptic, signed across all textile scales—poly- batteries—must be small, low energy,
6–10 3,15,24,40,48
or tactile. Clothing is a great plat- mer, fibers, threads or yarns, fabrics, dependable, and stable.
form for “smart” functionalities because garments, ensembles, and assemblies
8,10,27
it is ubiquitous, worn by everyone, cov- of textile wearers. Textile compo- However, standardized electronic tex-
ers a large percentage of the human nents are manufactured by thermal tile implementation has three major
44 45
body, and is form-fitting for direct skin drawing, spinning, braiding, knitting, impediments: (1) flexible conductive
11,12
contact. While “smart textile” has weaving, carding, printing, coating, wiring, e.g., by looped stitch intercon-
40,42
been synonymous with “electronic tex- sewing/ embroidery. Material selection nects; (2) continuous power gener-
13
tile,” the last decade has seen the depends on reliability, durability, bio- ation, e.g., by hybrid energy harvest-
43
emergence of textiles that are “smart” compatibility or toxicity, and coming; and (3) garment production, e.g.,
19,24,32,39
without electronics. Non-electronic fort. cut, sew, and moisture handling. 40
smart textiles circumnavigate integra- Moreover, electronic textiles have
tion challenges such as soldering, low Early generation smart textiles have failed to deliver commercially—few
14
washability, and decreased lifetime; been electronic textiles. A standard- products have gained enough support
11,25,26,28– 30,33,40,41
these smart textiles are more wearable ized electronic textile to last more than a couple of years.
because they do not include bulky with built-in interconnects and compo- Instead, smart phones and gadget
7,15,16
electronics. These “stimuli-respon- nent connection points supports fast- based-wearables have capitalized on
sive textiles” have applications in soft er development cycles by being mass wide-spread platform adoption to dom-
robotics and artificial muscles, target- producible, agnostic to end-use, cus- inate the market. In this environment,
23,31,33,40
ed drug release and wound monitoring, tomizable, and proven. Electron- smart textiles must prove their unique
9,10,17
and soft actuators and sensors. ic textile function arises from attach- advantage over available solutions or
ing discrete self-contained elements; become obsolete due to redundancy
First, we consider what are generally encapsulating small electronics; or al- of smart phones, watches & patches.
NCM-JULY 2021
32
Smart Textiles: A Toolkit to Fashion the Future
FIG. 1. Operation principles of thermal com-

fort garment: electronic (left) and non-elec-
tronic (right). While shown as garments,
other textile forms are possible including
drapes, upholstery, and composites.
34
On the other hand, custom design average power, and dye receptivity. This perspective encourages next gen-
uses new materials, production meth- Research areas abound at every step eration, fully textile solutions to bridge
ods, and patterning to create respon- of the process from component manu- the gap between commercial products
siveness for specific applications. The facturing to the end-use application, and cutting-edge research.
challenge for customized textiles is including (1) material development and
understanding the application require- characterization; (2) making textile or II. SYSTEM OPERATION COMPARI-
ments, manufacturing capabilities, and garments from materials according to SON: ELECTRONIC VS NON-ELEC-
material palette. However, this alterna- existing production methods or invent- TRONIC
tive affords more opportunities to make ing new technology; (3) design and user
a minimum viable product without re- Smart textile systems can be differ-
studies to improve textile appearance, entiated by their operating principles
quiring electronics. It is the ideal plat-
behavior, function, properties, perfor- into two categories, electronic and non-
form for stimuli-responsive textiles.
mance, and quality. electronic, and visualized with block
Stimuli-responsive materials convert
stimuli from the environment (e.g., tem- diagrams (Fig. 1). The basic operating
In this perspective, we investigate the principle for these two system types
perature, light, chemicals, moisture,
and pH) or interactions (e.g., mechani- state of stimuliresponsive textiles by can be understood in terms of input,
cal force and electromagnetic field) into activity, and output. For both, the in-
3 (i) comparing system operation be-
responses such as acoustic (sound), puts can come from the environment
tween electronic and nonelectron-
vibrations, color change, dimension (sensing). For electronic systems elec-
ic smart textiles;
change, shape change, light transmis- trical circuitry defines the activity while
sion or fluorescence, mechanical twist- (ii) exploring techniques and materi- in non-electronic systems the materi-
ing or pressure, electrical conductiv- als to produce fully-textile, stimu- al properties define the activity. For
ity, thermal insulation, wettability or li-responsive textiles; both, the outputs are measurable
8–10,34
moisture transport, and displays. changes (actuating).
(iii) describing emerging applications
They are evaluated by application-rel- in soft assistive robotics, smart Consider the operation of smart tex-
evant properties such as direction of healing, and thermal comfort; and tiles by comparing mechanisms for
movement, reversibility or cycling, thermal comfort. In a simple electron-
force generation, tensile properties, re- (iv) identifying new approaches to com- ic textile system for thermal comfort,
sponse speed or time, work capacity, mercialize, produce, and invent. a wearer senses cold and flips a switch
NCM-JULY 2021
33
on (input) which allows electricity to flow III. PRODUCTION OF STIMULI-RE- B. Inherent stimuli-responsive prop-
from a battery to thermoelectric heat- SPONSIVE TEXTILES erties of fiber and fabric
ers (activity) resulting in a warming
Stimuli-responsive textiles can be pro-
sensation (output). In a more complex Textile methods to impart function in-
duced through postprocessing meth-
system, as illustrated in Fig. 1, the clude fiber spinning (melt, wet, gel, or
ods or by using inherent properties of
temperature could be determined by a electro), or fabrication of stimuli-re-
textile materials. Differences appear in
sensor (input) after which a computer sponsive fibers, and fabric construc-
materials, equipment, durability, and
performs signal processing and inter- tion (knit, weave, or nonwoven pro-
hand. The textile hand depends on
prets electrical input into output cesses) (Table II). Often these mate-
materials, design, fiber size, and fiber/
through logic gates (activity) resulting rials are bicomponent, or consist of two
fabric rigidity. Types of stimuli-respon-
in an actuator being turned on—heater polymers in one fiber or a single co-
sive behavior include shape memory,
if it is cold or a heatsink if it is hot—for polymer with distinct soft and hard re-
asymmetric structures, self-healing,
a warming or cooling effect (output). Al- gions. Such contrast of material prop-
self-cleaning, and color change.
ternatively, data processing could be erties, when combined into one, is of-
performed off-textile using wireless A. Post-processing with coatings, ten utilized for shape-memory effects
antenna connections. The drawbacks films, and surface treatments of col- which dominates the list in Table II.
of this system are that power, current, oration
and voltage must be appropriate for the Durability depends on the fiber
Post-processing methods to impart
components and that the arrangement strength, potentially making failures
function include applying coatings,
of components in series or in parallel catastrophic instead of solely reduc-
films, surface treatments, or coloration
will impact performance. Furthermore, ing function or becoming faulty. The
(Table I). New polymers with low mo-
these electrical circuits are subject to production requirements are more strin-
lecular weight, melting point, and batch
bending and folding such that great gent. For example, the minimum ma-
size (under 10 g) or hydrogels can
care must be taken to avoid short cir- terial amounts are far higher, e.g., a
readily be processed into films with
cuiting. Finally, heaters can potentially single winter hat requires about 50–100
solvents and then applied to textiles
overshoot to cause burns. g of wool. Start up, scrap, and purging
as coatings. Specialty dyes can be
all add to the material cost. Equipment
Non-electronic textiles are functional- applied as treatments to textiles as
costs are a hefty capital investment:
ized through materials, patterning, and well, including thermochromatic and
ranging from four to seven figures. Di-
processing. Electrical power or com- photoactive semiconductor inks. The
rect incorporation of fillers or particles
puter control are unnecessary, elimi- post-processing approach allows re-
could increase surface roughness de-
nating the need for interconnects. An searchers to try out new concepts be-
pending on particle size and disrupt
example of a simple non-electronic tex- fore committing time and effort to
spinning (defects or voids).
tile system for thermal comfort is mois- achieving polymer properties critical to
ture absorbed by wool (input) causing fiber or fabric creation. The lower equip-
The textile approach imparts function-
an exothermal reaction (activity), which ment cost, a bucket and solvent, fur-
ality through novel construction pat-
is perceived as 113 J/g warmth (out- ther supports first stage prototyping.
49
terning and/or incorporation of function-
put). In a more complex system, as However, there are two major disad- al fibers within the fabric. There are
illustrated in Fig. 1, humidity and/or vantages: (i) lower durability and (ii) fewer concerns about environmental
temperature level (input) could cause poor hand. Coatings tend to have low hazards of the textile in use, including
a physical or chemical adaptation to abrasion resistance and peel strength. the blooming and leaching of fillers.
stimuli (activity) with a physical effect Adhesion of the treatment to the sur-
of warming, cooling, wicking, or drying face impacts crocking and washabili- While the fabric base layer can be
(output). Non-electronic systems have ty. While some coatings can be used made through any textile method, prop-
system level challenges, i.e., a textile to improve hand (like silicone for soft- erties and mechanisms for functional
is an amalgam of dependent, interact- ness), coatings add weight and restrict base layers include magnetic and flu-
ing elements. As a result, changes in motion making textiles more rigid de- orescent cotton (added by doping a
150
physical state for one area impact the pending on layer thickness. While thin- food source, enhanced surface area
151
complex interactions of the textile in- ner coatings are less durable the thick- topology (Fig. 2), and super stretchy
152
cluding local strain states (drape) and er coatings have worse hand. In this surfaces (added by manipulating
creep (fit). The next section discusses way, it is essential to get the most buckling phenomenon). Stimuli-respon-
producing the functional components function out of the least amount of sive properties imparted by the fabric
of textile-based smart systems. material. base layer is listed in Table III.
NCM-JULY 2021
34
NCM-JULY 2021
35
C. Types of stimuli-responsive tex- (structural elements like crystals or sensing, self-diagnostic, and thermal
76,77 68
tiles cross links). A wide glass transi- comfort. Self-bending/morphing soft
tion temperature range allows for mul- robots can be made through knitting or
8
Shape memory materials can alternate tiple temporary states. Natural fibers printing methods: silk fibroin 3D print-
between two or more programmed can have shape memory, e.g., cash- ed bioink, 3D printed hydrogels, com-
shapes when stimulated by moisture, mere goat hairs respond to tempera- bining 3D printed objects, and 4D print-
76,77 77 17
heat, UV, or solvents. Manifesting ture (curl) or moisture (swell). Appli- ing (Fig. 3).
shape memory requires material to be cations for shape memory polymers
both “soft” (mobile elements) and “hard” include soft robotics, self-healing, self- Within an asymmetric structure each
NCM-JULY 2021
36
part responds to a stimulus differently
creating a differential change across
the structure. Asymmetric structures
can be made by copolymerization,
blending, surface modification, bilayer
34,79
stacking, and differential cooling.
For example, layering two materials
with different coefficient of thermal
expansions will create a structure
80,81
which curls when heated. The asym-
metry causes buckling. Although, the
repeatability of the behavior depends
on the strength of the connection be-
tween the disparate parts, e.g., inter-
facial adhesion. These structures can
use shape memory materials, as well.
Applications for asymmetric structures FIG. 2. Self-folding fabric caused by buckling increases fabric topology,
include thermal comfort and variable origami tessellations: purl stitches upward fold (gold), knit stitches down-
151
friction. This area has large potential ward fold (teal). Pattern (a) and knitted fabric (b). Knittel, Chelsea E.;
for research investment. Nicholas, Diana S.; Street, Reva M.; Schauer, Caroline L.; Dion, G., Fi-
bers, Vol. 3, 2015; licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution (CC
Self-healing, wherein cracks or tears BY) license.
are repaired without intervention, oc-
curs through a “welding” mechanism: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, can electronic sensors because the inter-
the polymer rearranges, approaches the be added to polymer feedstocks, fi- action of the textile material with a stim-
83,85
crack surface, wets the surface until bers, or fabrics. Stimuli-responsive ulus creates a color change which com-
chains diffuse across it and equilibri- materials can initiate cleaning by municates information. The color
51,82
um is achieved. Although good switching wettability depending on a change can be interpreted offtextile and
shape retention requires healing to be stimulus and may be scalable as coat- quantified via a smart phone app. These
84
initiated by an external force, otherwise ings. Self-cleaning extends service fully textile sensors have been proven
high polymer chain mobility will cause lifetime by reducing wash require- for physiology and environment.
8
creep. Examples of self-healing ma- ments.
Material Textile level Mechanism Re-
terials include hydrogels, polymeric
Sensors perceive stimuli and commu- sult Reference Cotton doped with glu-
matrices, pressurized foams, micro-
nicate actionable information. They cose moiety Fiber Doped food con-
capsules with low melt macromole-
sense movement (motion, position, veyed through seed vascular system,
cules, or materials with dynamic, re-
8,51,83 pressure, or touch), physiology (body imparts property Fluorescent or mag-
versible bonds. 150
and mental signals), or the environment netic cotton Pattern purl and knit Knit
Self-healing is used in textiles to pre- (temperature, humidity, or gases). They fabric Buckling (self-folding) High sur-
151
serve coatings and extend service life- present information visually or tactile- face topology Electrospun
time. ly, making “display” an essential com- poly(vinylidene fluoride-co-hexafluoro-
ponent. Display interfaces must be ef- propylene), “PVDF-HFP,” fabric infused
Self-cleaning, wherein deodorization or
fective, unobtrusive, and socially ac- with ethanol and silicone oil Fabric
removal of contaminates occurs, takes 86,87
ceptable. Thermochromic materials Excess material compresses into a
advantage of wettability or photoactive
83 change color in response to tempera- “venation network” of globally flat
decay. 3
ture while aggregachromic materials stacks and wrinkles. Material can be
Superhydrophobic materials use hier- change color when a stimulus, thermal, stretched and compressed 800%, while
archical structures or low surface en- or mechanical, causes aggregation or printed gold traces maintain conduc-
152
ergy coatings to increase contact an- disassembly, e.g., polymers with tivity.
gle above 150°, while superhydrophilic ligands which crystallize and form
IV. EMERGING APPLICATIONS
materials break down contaminant with metal complexes in response to metal
8
photoactive sensitizer and wash it ions. Color changing stimuli-respon- Smart textiles, in principle, can be used
83,84 1,11,12,25,32,88
away. Photoactive semiconductors, sive materials can function as non- in nearly any application.
NCM-JULY 2021
37
However, the advent and prevalence
of smart electronics have rendered
obsolete areas that do not require close
contact with a human or textile. Op-
portunities for smart textiles exist
where (i) smart phone adoption is low,
(ii) tactile feedback is sought in the
moment, or (iii) non-electronic solu-
tions are possible. Especially, applica-
tions which already use textiles are ripe
for additional functionality and techno-
logical advances. These textiles
should adapt to changes in local envi-
FIG. 3. (a) 4D printed self-bending/ morphing object made by 3D print-
ronment (reversible) and wearer activ-
79 ing, by fused deposition modeling, PLA reinforcements (black) onto a
ity. Examples span all industries in-
flat sheet (yellow). The object shifts between flat and rolled structure
cluding personal protective equipment,
89 with heating. Reproduced with permission from Bodaghi et al., Materi-
conformable shoe soles, anti-coun-
90,91 als 12(8), 1352 (2019); licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution
terfeiting protection, and military
92 (CC BY) license. (b) Flower petals made from knitted smart fiber (yellow)
stimuli-responsive ballistic armor,
and normal fiber (white) bends with heating. Reproduced with permis-
adaptive camouflage, and chemical/
sion from Han and Ahn, Adv. Mater. 29, 13 (2017). Copyright 2017 Wiley.
biological suits. Applications where
stimuli-responsive textiles excel in- 93 have frequently appeared in the lit- ating air bladder envelopes from heter-
clude soft robotics, smart healing, and erature with textile sensors and actua- ogeneous layers of knit and woven fab-
97–99
thermal comfort. Table IV categorizes tors or rigid embedded electron- rics and pleating creates stretching
100,101
each application at a glance, while the ics (see Ref. 96 for a thorough re- anisotropy which allows for a greater
104
following sections discuss in-depth. view of textile soft robots). Yet, these range of motion.
A. Soft assistive robotics systems inherently mandate electron- Some have investigated the complex
ics. Pliable actuators with programma- material mechanical interactions. Nguy-
Soft robots are “active and reactive ble surfaces, such as an artificial mus-
12 en et al. simulated soft pneumatic ac-
compliant systems” which can be made cle, were discussed in the actuator 105
tuators witha finite element model.
inherently safe to humans and the en- section and could be reconfigured to
vironment by the inclusion of compli- They found the layering of knit and
93 function as assistive soft robots. woven structures impacts available
ant and biodegradable parts. Soft ro-
bots can handle “delicate tasks in clut- Currently, assist and rehabilitation de- actuation (twist, bend) motions and that
tered and/or unstructured environ- vices for home and work, such as an the simulations had good agreement
ments” and “interact with their environ-
93
exo-suit which help with lifting are with experimental results, making it
94
ment” better than rigid robots. Fluidic poised for textile involvement. Gener- easier to design for actuation mo-
105
actuation with elastomeric materials ally, assistive robots rely on bladder tions. While these are significant ad-
simulates nature very well making hu- inflation. Microfluidics can inflate blad- vancements, air bladder systems must
man interfacing applications—im- ders for exoskeleton and assist devic- be connected to a pneumatic pump to
102
es. Yet, fluid bladders add weight and function. Although current textile-based
plants, prostheses, drug delivery, tis-
susceptible to puncture. To this end, control and power technologies are too
sue engineering, and assistive devic- 96
95
recent studies have attempted to light- distant to be useful in the near term,
es— ideal for soft robots. To date,
most soft robots do not use textile en the weight and/or mechanically re- such solution can create a pathway for
materials, instead favoring films. How- inforced the bladder. Zhao et al. creat- more lightweight and robust soft robot-
ever, due to the close interaction soft ed polymer air bladders from a ther- ics that are more likely to be accepted
assistive robots have with humans,
103
moset rotational casting method. The by the public.
textiles should be preferred because seamless bladders allowed a maxi- The greatest potential for soft assis-
they offer breathability, flexibility, and mum force equal to the polymer film’s tive robots lies in using stimuli-respon-
96 103
tactile softness. Platforms for human burst strength of 25 N. da Roche et sive materials or self-contained sys-
interactions with machines or comput- al. layered embroidered structures to tems, e.g., pressure in one area fills
er, such as actuators embedded in produce shape change with air infla- the air bladder in another to create ac-
47
garments which provide danger alerts, tion. Capello et al. showed that cre- tuation. Of course, stability and practi-
NCM-JULY 2021
38
cal forces are major design concerns.
To date, there are no known examples
of non-electronic textile soft assistive
robots in the literature or marketplace;
this suggests the field is ripe for op-
portunities with more advancement of
stimuli-responsive material/textiles.
B. Smart healing
Textiles which offer improved healing
by responding to stimuli include smart
wound care and smart drug delivery.
Smart textiles are uniquely suited to
healing applications because they re-
quire functionalizing surfaces which
already in use: textiles such as ban-
dages, scaffolds, and sutures. Also,
transdermal drug delivery is possible
through direct contact between skin
and textile. While a patch may suffice,
these systems limit air flow, slowing
healing. Combining textile and adhesive
in a patch, such as a band-aid® , has
a proven track record of healing. Wound
dressings must: (1) protect wound from
contaminants, (2) reduce exudate ac- 113
cumulation, (3) maintain moist environ- Currently, smart textiles can be used before dissolving. Khattab et al. pro-
ment for epithelial cell migration, and to diagnose, monitor, and heal. The first duced a smart organogel which gelled
(4) leave new cell layer intact when area is wound dressings with sensors and changes color in response to pH
106
removed. Hydrogels immobilize bac- and/or antibacterial drug treatments. In due to protonation (transitioning from
106
teria and deliver drugs. 2001, Chan et al. showed it was possi- yellow gel at 5.38 pH to purple liquid at
114
ble to identify the presence of gram 7.04 pH). While the researchers ob-
Stimuli-responsive materials can im- negative bacteria, such as E. coli and served the material would be ideal for
prove healing by shapememory actua- Salmonella, in a wound bed with a po- in vitro drug release based on pH, they
tion, variable mechanical strength, and rous silicone microcavity resonator (an did not test this theory or expose the
8
antiinflammatory drugs. Stimuli-re- organic receptor attached to the reso- material to in vitro conditions. Quarti-
sponsive wound dressings provide a nator binds to diphosphoryl lipid A nello et al. performed enzymatic sur-
stimuli-initiated bio-barrier, moisture (unique to gram negative) which pro- face functionalization on cotton/poly-
management, and thermoregulation to duces red luminescence after exposure ethylene terephalate (PET) fabric to add
107
reduce bacterial growth. Higher to- 112
to lipid A). This research has been pH-responsive nanocapsules (human
pology, e.g., knit honeycomb struc- further advanced in recent years. serum albumin and silk fibroin) filled
tures, or higher surface area, e.g., fin- González et al. had electrospun biotin with a clove-derived natural antimicro-
er fibers like nanofibers, support high- containing polylactic acid (PLA) fiber
110
bial. Slightly basic, 6.0 pH, artificial
er drug loading, and drug release. 108 to serve as a biosensor since the bi- sweat environment had the highest
High contact area between textile and otin binds to avidin, a bacterium pro- antimicrobial release, due to protona-
skin makes textiles ideal for transder- 113
tein. Their research increased the tion induced hydrolysis of the nanocap-
109
mal drug delivery. Targeted drug re- biosensor effectiveness by adding a sule, with 81% Staphylococcus A.
lease for antibiotics reduces overuse block copolymer (polylactic acid-co- [Gram (+)] and 33% E. coli [Gram (-)]
and potential for antibacterial resistant polyethylene glycol) which increased
110
growth inhibition. While the research-
110,111
“super bugs.” The advantages of hydrophilicity, decreased fiber diame- ers note that the difference in effec-
textiles for drug delivery are flexibility, ter, and increased biotin surface func- tiveness was likely due to the select-
high surface area, and potential for tionalization lengthening the time the ed antimicrobial, trying this approach
multi-stimuli response. fibers remained in an aqueous phase with other antimicrobials or drug treat-
NCM-JULY 2021
39
ments could prove advantageous. and pigment extracted from black car- fort regulation and ripe for optimization.
117
Most notably, Singh et al. prepared a rot. Color change with pH was per- Currently, thermal comfort garments
non-invasive detection and antibiotic ceptible: red (pH 4–6), blue (pH 7), and can be cooling, heating, or both; Table
117
bandage by blend electrospinning poly- black-green (pH 8–10). This method V displays types of thermal comfort
urethane with a prodrug antibiotic, trans- improves on previous methods by no smart textiles, materials, mechanism,
forms into active substance by reac- longer requiring a computer to interpret and description.
tion in situ, and chromophore dye, the data. Temperature control can be made adap-
changes color due to intramolecular tive through variable porosity or vari-
While these advancements are prom-
charge transfer when exposed to bac- able thermal insulation. Variable poros-
111 ising, more work is needed to align re-
terial infection. The prodrug and chro- ity adjusts water vapor transmission
search with the market for its commer-
mophore dye were activated in the dynamically by shape memory poly-
cial viability. As such, it is crucial to
presence of lipase secreting Pseudomo- mers, hydrogels, or bacteria. These
identify specific use cases and work
nas aeruginosa bacteria [Gram (-)] due materials can be sweat activated—
with healthcare professions to refine
to a “lipase mediated hydrolysis of es- wherein the sweat absorption causes
results for implementation. Another hur-
ter linkages,” which turned on the anti- 123 120
swelling, expansion or twisting
121,122
dle is that the rigorous, deliberate reg-
biotic and changed the color from yel- —or temperature activated—wherein
111 ulatory approval requirements make
low-green-red. The published results 79
heat causes contraction or expan-
this a costly, slow to launch area. The
are promising, yet the bandage requires 76
sion (Table IV). Variable thermal in-
process can be shortened by (1) se-
4 h to work and has not been tested on sulation, trapped air and thickness
lecting materials which have already
natural wounds. The bandage only change, depends on buckling of asym-
been approved in similar applications,
“works” on lipase secreting bacteria, so 123
metric materials or shape change
and (2) engaging the perspective of
exhibits no color change or cytotoxici- 9
materials. Fiber morphology with well-
industry experts early to weed out less
ty to E. coli. separated phases can determine the
optimal iterations. Since, the objective
in this instance is to use new materi- thermoregulation mechanism such that
The second area for smart healing is
als, the best approach would be to get a bead on string creates variable po-
in state monitoring with strain sensors
funding from the pharmaceutical or rosity and side-by-side creates variable
and fiber probes. Tai et al. coated com- 123
healthcare industry to offset costs. As thermal insulation (Fig. 4).
mercially available bandage with car-
bon nanotube solution to create dual a happy side effect, this will onboard Mechanisms which perform both heat-
function bandage: (1) measured strain valuable industry stakeholders earlier ing and cooling include thermoelectric,
as a function of resistivity (disruption in the process. dynamic gating, and heat storage. Ther-
of CNT percolation network with strain) C. Thermal comfort regulation moelectric heaters and heatsinks are
115
and (2) provide joule heating. The produced from electrically conductive
researchers plan to examine behavior Thermal comfort depends on heat ex- fabrics or rigid electronics. Hong et al.
in a wet environment (more closely re- change between the body, clothing, and produced a thermoelectric heater and
115 118
sembling reality) in future work. Ca- the environment. Dynamic thermal heatsink from a sandwich pillar struc-
119
nale et al. made a neural circuit fiber regulation garments respond to chang- ture powered by a battery. The de-
probe with embedded electronics by ing conditions to reduce work done by vice maintained skin temperature
thermal drawing (optical fiber process), the body, as perspiration or shivering. (32°C) while in ambient conditions (22–
119
which could provide simultaneous op- or by the environment, as climate con- 36°C). While this approach can heat
tical stimulation, neural recording, and trol systems. In fact, personal ther- and cool, it requires electricity (battery,
116
drug delivery. The flexibility of the moregulation may save up to 10% of generator) to function and the struc-
probe reduces the risk of apoptosis or total energy consumed globally on cli- ture is bulky/inflexible. Zhang et al. in-
116
inflammation for up to 2 months. The mate control by reducing the work cli- troduced a new method for thermoreg-
129
shortcoming of these approaches is the mate control systems must do to main- ulation, “dynamic gating.” Their ma-
119
required connection to a circuit and tain thermal comfort. Textiles help terial—hydrophobic/hydrophilic triace-
computer for power and signal process- humans adapt to their environment— tate-cellulose bicomponent side-by-
ing. Pakolpakçil et al. performed pH protecting against temperature, pres- side elliptical fibers, knit and coated
monitoring in situ without electronics sure, relative humidity, and ultraviolet with carbon nanotube solution (1.6
or secondary processing with a halo- radiation—they are breathable for ther- ppm)—dynamically responds to the
117
chromic pigment. The wound dress- mal regulation and porous for body flu- local environment to block or permit
11,15,19
ings were electrospun from a solution id management. As such, textiles human body heat radiation to maintain
of polyvinylalcohol, sodium alginate, are an ideal platform for thermal com- thermal comfort—heating and cool-
NCM-JULY 2021
40
129
ing. When hot or wet the yarn col- ing - cut & sew - impact the property. prevent leakage to the environ-
127,128
lapses due to the individual fibers draw- Also, carbon nanotubes may be car- ment. Of the three emerging ap-
ing closer together and the carbon nan- cinogens and more work must be done plications, thermal comfort regulation
otubes induce electromagnetic cou- to ensure safety - skin contact and ero- has had the most commercial products.
129
pling which allows heat dissipation. sion to environment. Heat stores use Table VI lists commercial thermal com-
The advantage of this approach is that endothermic material phase change to fort products and their descriptions.
the one fabric performs heating and stores energy as latent heat which can Cooling textiles and resistive heating
cooling. While the researchers present be released later to broaden comfort textiles have traction in sport and bed-
a jersey knit material, it would be in- range; these materials usually melt on ding applications. It is noted that non-
teresting to see how different fabric contact with human causing a “cool electronic adaptive heating and cool-
127,128
structures—knit rib, knit Milano, knit touch” (Table IV). Encasing the ing thermal comfort products have yet
cardigan, or woven - and fabric shap- phase change material in a fiber can to make headlines. This may be a re-
NCM-JULY 2021
41
sult of other options—layering or fiber
content selection—which are “good
enough” or the difficulty of measuring
and communicating the value of dy-
namic systems to buyers.
V. OUTLOOK: DESIGN CONCERNS
FOR INTEGRATED SOLUTIONS
In this final section, we share our per-
spective on smart textiles of the fu-
ture, addressing the continuing chal-
lenges, such as commercialization and
production, and suggesting a way for-
ward by refocusing efforts towards
designing for specific applications and
building a collaborative ecosystem to
foster new research directions. It is
notable that smart textiles challenges
have not altered appreciably since FIG. 4. Differences in solvent-polymer wettability for a co-extruded elec-
Cherenack et al. reviewed the topic for trospun fiber affect fiber morphology, which impacts whether the fibers
the Journal of Applied Physics in are moisture responsive (bead on string formed by DMF) or thermal
13
2012. Most research still fails to leave responsive (side-by-side formed by chloroform/ DMF). Reproduced with
the lab and standardization, quality, permission from Gernhardt et al., Macro. Mater. Eng. 303(1), 1700248 (2017).
13
and regulations are still missing. Al- Copyright 2017 Wiley.
though smart textiles now include “pas-
sive” non-electronic systems, commer- better product-market fit and potential uli-responsive materials is in improv-
24
cial products are underrepresented. commercial success. The feature’s ing athletic wear and soft equipment.
Other continuing challenges include added cost must not exceed buyer Elite sport has the resources to sup-
comfort, adhesion, wash and weara- expectations. Generally, medical, port development costs, while the am-
135
bility, and data transmission. Some sport, personal protective equipment, ateur market sustains long term prof-
of these aspects have made technical and military are application areas its. However, this area is a murky in-
progress since the last review; cooling wherein function is more important vestment. Anything that noticeably
and thermal comfort systems remain than cost. Yet, what application areas improves performance may be consid-
interesting, while monitoring and reduc- are worth the effort of development in ered “Technology Doping” and end up
ing skin hydration may increase com- the next five, ten, or fifteen years? banned by the elite sport or tournament
135 136
fort. Hydrogels help with adhesion governing body. Past bans have in-
While health monitoring is strong sto-
while reducing electronics or non-tex- cluded athletic wear, such as full body
ry for electronic textiles— availability 137
tile components helps with wash and swimsuits. Short of lobbying to en-
of relevant data collection points, col-
wearability. Ultimately, focusing on sure a specific technology remains
lection of biometric data to improve ho-
stimuli-responsive textiles and forming usable, this application area is risky.
listic preventative care—non-textile
collaborations across domains are the To succeed, a product must make
wearables are already defining the
best options for paving a way forward. enough of a difference to be worth the
market. Systems which initiate care in
cost, yet not enough of a difference to
A. Commercialization—Potential response to biometrics may save lives
be banned. This quandary can be re-
markets and applications in the event of cardiac arrest, diabetic
solved by focusing on monitoring and
shock, stroke, or puncture. As dis-
Commercial viability requires good assistive equipment specifically for
cussed in “Emerging Applications” sec-
product-market fit. The theoretical mar- training purposes, not to be used dur-
tion, passive methods to administer
ket for smart textiles cannot be real- ing competition. For example, clothing
medicine and monitor healing would
ized without understanding the needs which senses tension or stress and
advance care, even though they require
of wearers or users. Invoking stake- gives immediate feedback to a wearer
large upfront costs to become FDA
holder opinions—wearers, users, pro- or coach. For another example, sens-
approved.
ducers—before prototyping and ing ions or salts in sweat could trigger
throughout development will lead to Another potential application for stim- an alert for dehydration. Generally,
NCM-JULY 2021
42
ways to provide actionable information be used to encourage “fresh air” breaks Finally, in the distant future clothing and
to improve training. Furthermore, these in meetings, since prolonged carbon textiles which are designed for func-
tools could be used by health profes- dioxide exposure may reduce production at the molecular level are no long-
140 141
sionals, military, and other high impact tivity and adversely impact health. er reserved for superheroes. Clothing
jobs to monitor stress and improve per- second, a system which senses which alters its size or pressure dy-
formance through feedback which pathogens and responds by reducing namics in response to the human form
makes human limits more visible. An porosity could be used as a smart to ensure a better fit or practically in-
interesting tertiary application could be mask material. Although, the material visible textiles which filter the air we
to provide feedback to parents about would need to respond quickly and, breathe while modulating the tempera-
their partner or child’s current state, potentially, transition the wearer to an ture are within the realm of possibility.
supporting other communication and alternate air supply. This variable sys- In fact, Granberry et al. have created
training awareness. Currently, data-re- tem could increase wearer comfort, a garment which has improved fit with
71
lated concerns limit the use of moni- normal state of high air flow, to reduce heating. Using an understanding of
39,138
toring devices. Data-free monitor- donning and doffing. Other areas of in- molecular dynamics and patterning to
ing provided by non-electronic smart terest include, contamination indica- unlock functionality and efficiency in
textiles may increase user adoption tors, self-cleaning, and adaptive fit by textiles is essential to the future growth,
since there would be no risk of data color change, exhaled water vapor, and as this is the only way to produce ma-
misuse. heat, respectively. Smart PPE which terials which respond directly to the en-
could guarantee reliability and enhance vironment.
Prior to the COVID-19 Pandemic in wearer comfort would be a welcome
2020 the market could bear only mini- B. Sustainable production
addition. In the long term, these mate-
mal cost increases for PPE. However, rials could be used in health care. A While there are several different ways
the continuing global pandemic has smart PPE does not need to know what to approach wearer needs the best
created a market for PPE that does the pathogen is, it only needs to pro- techniques are ones that fit well with
more, and it seems the market will bear tect. existing expectations and production
any cost so long as the equipment is scales. Thermal draw provides an in-
effective. How long this increased de- Farther afield, systems which make novative way to embed off-the-shelf
mand for function over cost will last virtual interactions tangible are sought. electronics or features into fibers, yet
remains to be seen. In the meantime, These include physical representations current processes are batch-limited
consider these two potential enhanced of virtual environments and realistic and fiber diameters exceed acceptable
PPE applications. First, early results tactile interactions such as push or tolerances. Melt-spinning, wet-spin-
93
from Peng et al., still under review, stroke. These materials could be ning, gel-spinning and other textile fi-
suggest carbon dioxide may be an in- used in the modern, socially distanced ber production methods have proven
direct proxy for COVID-19 risk. A
139 world to simulate human interaction, scalability yet achieving percolation
material which changes color, rotates, such as vibrations, pressure, or hug- networks is a challenge and filler par-
or contracts when exposed to carbon ging, and social cues. On the commer- ticle sizes may impact fiber quality—
dioxide could be used as a bracelet or cial side, sensor garments which could strength and appearance. Electrospin-
mask tie to alert user to leave the measure fit would be useful for online ning produces nanofibers with high
room. Post-COVID-19 this device could shopping. surface area, requires a lower upfront
NCM-JULY 2021
43
equipment and material cost than tex- tors, and countries; these include sci- to making smart textiles a reality. Ma-
tile fiber spinning, and is versatile, yet entists, artists, designers, computer terial scientists investigate the con-
productivity levels remain low. Finish- experts, technologists, electrical en- nection between material microstruc-
ing techniques, such as printing and gineers, manufacturers, and wearers tures and properties to extend funda-
coating, are textile “agnostic,” have low in academia, government, and indus- mental knowledge. On the other hand,
3,11,25,145
upfront equipment costs, and allow lo- try. In fact, less than a third textile scientists are grounded in the
cation control, yet these treatments (29%) of smart textile researchers practical needs of scaling up produc-
can rub off or leech into the surround- have a textile background and research tion. Manufacturing smart textiles at
ing environment—decreasing perfor- is mostly published outside of textile scale continues to be a chal-
2,3,24,36,38,86
mance and becoming hazardous to journals (88%). Collaborators are unit- lenge. While textiles can be
12
health. While the immediate material ed in exploring concepts for smart tex- produced at high production speeds,
needs are lower for finishing techniques tiles yet divided in their approach (Ta- smart textile manufacturing is limited
than for fiber spinning, in the long-term ble VII). The next two paragraphs look by functionality-adding techniques24
11,15,19,33
new polymers will needs to be produced at two key collaborations— technical and cost. While melt, gel, solu-
on the scale of tons to meet consumer vs creative, materials vs textiles. tion, or dry fiber extrusion is better
33,148
needs regardless of production meth- First, both technical and creative per- suited to scale, researchers favor
od. Automation and whole garment spectives are necessary to produce electrospinning. Method automation
19
knitting may be able to reduce waste innovation. On the one hand, scientists increases production speed. “Fab
142 2 10
and encourage sustainability. Auto- discover new materials and character- labs,” robotic processes, and desk-
149
mation helps mass produce textiles ize properties while engineers apply top robotic 3D printers may support
while fabrication labs can mass cus- material properties and functionalities high volume custom manufacturing, yet
tomize textiles. The best techniques to solve problems. Applied scientists, are ill-suited to the volumes currently
are fully textile and non-electronic, such as applied physicists, use com- made by textile manufacturers.
eliminating the need to irrevocably plex math to formalize probabilistic/ VI. CONCLUSIONS
blend plastic and metallic components, non-linear dynamics in 4D (3D + time)
the development of which depends on In this perspective, we discussed the
to suggest materials or geometries;
thorough understandings of all available current state of stimuli-responsive tex-
drive fundamentals to basic principles
methods and application needs. tiles. Smart textiles span electronic
to refocus problem, increase robust-
textiles and adaptive textiles, yet the
C. Collaborate to fashion the future ness, and standardize; mine sub-fields
future is in fully textile non-electronic
of physics to offer a multi-scale un-
Research refines assertions into ac- solutions, so-called “stimuli-responsive
143 derstanding of smart textiles; and pro-
cepted facts. Disruptive technology, textiles.” The material palette is limit-
vide big picture analysis through phys-
such as smart textiles, depends on ed solely by the researcher’s expertise
ical intuition for all the areas smart tex-
challenging the status quo; however, and creativity, encompassing poly-
tiles touch. On the other hand, design-
academic productivity depends on mers-metals-ceramics and fibers-films-
ers and artists move materials out of
deep research in one area with a track fabrics. Function can be imposed in
23,144 the science lab and into practical ap-
record of publications. As a result, polymer (copolymerization, compound-
plications. Artists question the under-
researchers tend to rush into “gap-filling, blending), fiber (thermal draw, so-
lying structures of what exists, how it
ing” instead of collaborative inqui- lution casting, melt, solution, or elec-
10,23,144 is made, and who participates in mak-
ry. The following discusses the 146 tro-spinning), yarn (plying, blending,
ing or using it. Designers learn ma-
make-up of collaborations and ways to metallization), fabric (knit, weave, non-
terial uses by play, contextualization
foster a collaborative eco-system. woven techniques), or post-processing
and collaborative actions through ma-
(coat, print, embroider).
terial-based or holistic design process-
Smart textiles research is collabora- 7,15,18
es; designs are based on form and
tive; yet, fostering collaborations is a Stimuli-responsive textile system op-
36 tangible material aspects, such as ex-
challenge. Skills training for new tex- eration depends on material properties
ploiting the sidedness and 3D nature
tile techniques, sustainability and eth- 147 while electronic smart textiles operate
of textiles for interactions. Materials
ical requirements for manufacturing, 18 like circuits. Stimuli-responsive mate-
made adaptive through design and
and textile deliverables must be man- rials can be used as coatings, films,
38 adaptive materials can both form smart
aged. While interdisciplinary research and surface treatments or be pro-
textiles.
has become more commonplace, col- cessed directly into fibers or fabrics.
laborations for smart textiles span a Second, the collaboration between tex- Stimuli-responsive materials can be
much wider range of disciplines, sec- tile and material scientists is central shape memory, asymmetric, self-
NCM-JULY 2021
44
cleaning, self-healing, or color chang- rication and the future of work,” Per- Uzumcu, “Utilization of metallic fibers
ing. spect. Work 22, 8–13 (2018). in textiles,” in Proceedings of the 2nd
International Congress of Innovative
We explored the key emerging appli- 3 R. Stewart, “Cords and chords: Ex-
Textiles, Tekirdag Turkey, April 17-18,
cation areas of soft assistive robotics, ploring the role of E-textiles in com-
2019 (Tekirdag Namik Kemal Univer-
smart healing, and thermal comfort putational audio,” Front. ICT 6(2), 1
sity, 2019).
(2019).
regulation. Here the stress is on mak-
13 K. Cherenack and L. van Pieterson,
ing a functionalized textile that will re- 4 L. Stark, “Data vows: Reimagining rit-
“Smart textiles: Challenges and op-
spond in predictable ways to stimuli, ual through eTextile practice,” in
por tunities,” J. Appl. Phys. 112,
ISWC ‘17 Proceedings of the 2017
provide useful assistance or improve- 091301 (2012).
ACM International Symposium on
ments to humans, and enhance textile Wearable Computers, Maui, Septem- 14 L. Corchia, G. Monti, E. De Benedet-
properties to provide more functions ber 11–15 (Association for Comput- to, and L. Tarricone, “A chipless hu-
with fewer layers. ing Machinery, 2017). midity sensor for wearable applica-
tions,” in IEEE International Confer-
Finally, we looked to the future of smart 5 T. Almeida, K.-L. Chen, R. Comber,
ence on RFID Technology and Appli-
textiles, considering commercializa- and M. Balaam, “Dismantling femi-
cations (RFID-TA), Pisa, September
nist biology through the design of
tion, production, and the collaborative 25–27 (IEEE, 2019).
eTextiles,” in Method & Critique, Re-
eco-system. Research will gain the search Through Design (RTD), Rot- 15 S. Lemey, S. Agneessens, and H. Ro-
traction to leave the lab by targeting terdam, March 19–22, 2019 (Re- gier, “Wearable smart objects,” IEEE
applications with a winning case for search Through Design, 2019). Microwave Mag. 19(6), 83–100
textiles and implementing adaptive (2018).
6 M. Hassib, M. Khamis, S. Schneegass,
materials designed for specific appli- A. S. Shirazi, and F. Alt, “Investigating 16 J. Berzowska, “Electronic textiles:
cations and wearers. For example, user needs for bio-sensing and af- Wearable computers, reactive fash-
pathogen responsive protective equip- fective wearables,” in CHI 2016 Late- ion, and soft computation,” Textile
ment could address the problems of Breaking Work: Designing Interactive 3(1), 58–75 (2005).
Systems, San Jose, May 7–12, 2016
today and tomorrow. Interdisciplinary 17 “Stimuli-responsive polymer sys-
(Association for Computing Machin-
collaborations will help to refocus ef- tems—Recent manufacturing tech-
ery, 2016).
forts towards robust, market-ready niques and applications,” in Materi-
7 A. Mossé, “Gossamer timescapes: A als, edited by A. Kaynak and A. Zolf-
solutions and bridge the gap between
design-led investigation into electro- agharian (2019), 92 pp., available at
the lab and the market. active and light responsive textiles https://doi.org/10.3390/books978-3-
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS for the home,” Smart Mater. Struct. 27, 03921-484-6.
074009 (2018). 18 E. Karana, N. Nimkulrat, E. Giaccardi,
We acknowledge Grant Contract No. K. Niedderer, and J.-N. Fan, “Alive.
8 K. M. Herbert, S. Schrettl, S. J. Row-
W911QY-18-2-0006 MN-8 (CCDC-Sol- an, and C. Weder, “50th anniversary Active. Adaptive: Experiential knowl-
dier Center and University of Massa- perspective: Solid-state multistimuli, edge and emerging materials,” Int. J.
chusetts- Lowell Cooperative Agree- multiresponsive polymeric materials,” Des. 13(2), 1–5 (2019).
ment) for partially supporting this work. Macromolecules 50, 8845–8870 19 K. Dong, X. Peng, and Z. L. Wang, “Fi-
(2017). ber/fabric-based piezoelectric and tri-
Data Availability boelectric nanogenerators for flexi-
9 J. Hu, H. Meng, G. Li, and S. I. Ibekwe,
The data that support the findings of “A review of stimuli-responsive poly- ble/stretchable and wearable elec-
mers for smart textile applications,” tronics and artificial intelligence,” Adv.
this study are available from the corre-
Smar t Mater. Struct. 21, 053001 Mater. 32, 1902549 (2019).
sponding author upon reasonable re-
(2012). 20 G. Chen, Y. Li, M. Bick, and J. Chen,
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10 T. Heinzel and J. P. Hinestroza, “Rev-
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fashion revolution on knitting ma-
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2019.
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NCM-JULY 2021
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INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES
Textile & Apparel Industry in Argentina
SUMMARY
• The turnover of the Argentine textile and clothing industry amounted to USD 2 billion in 2019. • Around
90% of the manufacturers in the industry are Micro and Small companies, and large companies ac-
count for about 1% of manufacturers. All the production of textiles and clothing in the country is for
domestic consumption.
• The textile industry employs 98,000 registered workers. There are also several other workers from the
informal sector.
• Smart textiles are a niche with great potential, their development will allow the industry to penetrate
various segments with high added value products.
• The sector's imports far exceed exports, resulting in a significant trade deficit.
• As a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, the development of e-commerce as a clothing sales channel
has accelerated in 2020.
Fiber processing Yarn manufacturing Fabric manufacturing
• Cotton fiber containment • Winding and combing of • Preparation of yarns

fiber • Weaving and knitting
• Wool carding
• Spinning • Dyeing and finishing
• Cotton yarn and other in- • Print
puts obtainment
Fabric Manufacture Link
Apparel Manufacture Link

Design Dressmaking Trade
• Cutting material • Marketing and deals

• Selection of models and
fabrics • Sewing • Sale
• Preparation of molds • Garment assembly • Customer service
• Marketing
1% Big companies 98,000+

10% Medium companies Registered employees
37% Small companies The textile sector was the 2nd most affected in terms of job
52% Micro companies losses in Argentina from 2016 to 2019
NCM-JULY 2021
51
Geographical Distribution of Na- Geographical Distribution of Na-

tional Production tional Production
Cotton Textile Products
The production of cotton is concentrated in the northern Textile production is concentrated mainly in the province of
region of the country (Santa Fe, Santiago del Estero, Chaco, Buenos Aires and the City of Buenos Aires, which manu-
Formosa and Salta). facture 81% of the total textile output.
They are followed by the provinces of Córdoba, Santa Fe
and Chaco, which manufacture around 10% of the textile
output.
Source: Ministry of Treasury. Source: Ministry of Treasury.
NCM-JULY 2021
52
Competitiveness of the put down to the lack of installed ca- Opportunities

pacity of the industry and the subopti-
Industry mal quality of the outsourced services. Development of new niche markets:
• Garments manufacturing industry in Outsourcing: The apparel industry There is a potential market in the de-
the country might have some chal- outsources almost all the manufactur- velopment of smart textiles, which are
lenges including tax levied through- ing processes to clothing factories in capable of altering its composition in
out production chain, high inflation an attempt to conduct more flexible response to different external or chemi-
and interest rates, largely in infor- processes and reduce tied-up capital, cal stimuli. The properties of smart
mal sector, and relatively high la- which secures greater margin profit and textiles modify to provide users with
bor costs. mitigates risks. additional benefits. Guilford has already
begun manufacturing nano textiles and
• The industry is also underutilizing Industry synergy: In 2003, the main technical textiles. Mafissa manufac-
its capacity by using only 44% of companies in the industry together with tures geotextiles which are used in civil
its installed capacity at the begin- unions, universities, and research cen- engineering and in the construction of
ning of 2020. ters set up Fundación Pro Tejer, a foun- roads, canals, etc. It is the only manu-
dation that seeks to introduce topics facturer of copper yarn in the world. The
• Due to the impact of COVID-19, the related to the textile chain value into
sector expects investments of USD development of this segment will al-
the public agenda as a strategic move low introducing products of high added
320 million in 2020- 2021(*). towards the country's economic and value to highly differentiated market
Source: (*): Ministry of Productive Devel- social development. Every year the segments that prioritize usefulness and
opment. Available in: https:// foundation organizes a convention that
www.argentina.gob.ar/noticias/el-sector- high quality over price.
analyzes the state of the industry
textil-indumentaria-y-calzado-anuncio- through debates and presentations. Brands with a high degree of differ-
inversiones-por-us-350-mm. entiation:
E-commerce: Online clothing shopping
Competitors and their has been growing at a high rate in re- There are investment opportunities for
cent years. E-commerce grew by 76% those seeking to manufacture selec-
Strategies in 2019. The sportswear was at the 3rd tive and differentiated products, which
Strategies and their Description place in terms of E-commerce growth is further facilitated by the skilled
in 2019. Most attractive category for workforce available in the country.
Integration: Broadly speaking, cloth- online shoppers, while non-sportswear While it is difficult to sell large volumes
ing manufacturers are vertically inte- was the 5th. The COVID-19 pandemic in this pandemic and economic slow-
grated and engaged in spinning, weav- accelerated this transition process to down, there is still considerable poten-
ing, and dry-cleaning activities. The E-commerce, with more than 90% of tial for the brands that offer differenti-
reason for this vertical integration is brands using E-commerce platforms. ated and exclusive products.
NCM-JULY 2021
53
SANITARY MEASURES nisms that mitigate the effects of price Development Ministry and the Central
fluctuations and promote certainty in Bank encourages the consumption of
Work is underway to control pests
the long term (Act No. 26,060). various goods and services, especially
within the framework of the Agreement
clothes. This program allows consum-
of Technological Linkage of the Na- RESEARCH
ers to make credit card purchases in
tional Institute of Agricultural Technol-
INTA manages the Genetic Improve- up to 18 free-interest installments.
ogy (INTA, Spanish acronym) and the
ment Program with the objective of
cotton manufacturing provinces. The INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION
obtaining new and better quality crops.
ultimate goal is to prevent boll weevil
It also runs the Assistance Program
from entering the cotton manufactur- The Strengthening the Cotton Indus-
for the Improvement of the Quality of
ing areas through internal and external try sponsored by “Cooperación Sur-Sur”
Cotton Fiber (PROCALGODÓN),
quarantine systems. is a project that aims to contribute to
which seeks to improve the productive
the sustainable development of the
FINANCING process of Argentine cotton.
cotton value chain in the partner coun-
The Agriculture, Livestock and Fish- PUBLIC POLICIES tries and strengthen the industry by
eries Ministry runs the Plan for the expanding the capacities and levels of
FINANCING
Sustainable Development and Promo- inter-institutional coordination. The
tion of Cotton Production, whose pur- The Program for the Promotion of Con- main participants in this project are
pose is to contribute to the recovery sumption and Production managed by MERCOSUR member countries and its
of cotton cultivation through mecha- the Economy Ministry, the Productive partners.
NCM-JULY 2021
54
Uruguay, Chile and Paraguay make up the main destinations for apparel exports from Argentina.
China, followed by Vietnam, Bangladesh and India are the main exporters of apparels to Argentina in 2020.
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE Historically, the sector has imported have increased during that period.
large volumes of clothing. However, due
The Center for Textile Research and Investment in Argentina
to the currency devaluation in 2018-
Development, which belongs to the 2019, the economic recession and the Key Considerations for Foreign In-
National Institute of Industrial Technol- COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 has re- vestors
ogy (INTI, Spanish acronym), provides sulted in reduction of the imports.
technical assistance to public entities The Argentine Investment and Inter-
(Source: CIAI. Period January to Au-
and textile companies to contribute to national Trade Agency highlights the
gust of each year.)
the development of the industry. following aspects to invest in Argen-
According to Fundación Pro-Tejer, ex- tina:
International Trade ports of textile products have reduced
drastically from January-February 2015 • 3rd largest GDP in Latin America
The apparel sector is experiencing a (USD 450 billion).
gradual slowdown in the value as well to the same period of the year 2019.
as volume of its exports since 2012. Only sales abroad of raw materials • GDP per capita of USD 10,000.
NCM-JULY 2021
55
• 45 million inhabitants (60% under world's most demanding markets taxes, monitoring, and controlling
35 years of age) and access to 295 such as the European Union, the taxation at national level is AFIP
million people in MERCOSUR. United States, China and Israel. (Spanish acronym for Argentine
Revenue Service).
• 2nd largest unconventional gas field • 1st country in Latin America in com-
and 4th largest unconventional oil mand of the English language. • Consequently, taxes are classified
field in the world. into three tiers:
• 110,000 college graduates of STEM
• 705,000 km2 of high potential min- careers a year. - National
ing areas with more than 250 - Provincial
Source: Argentine Investment and In-
projects in their initial stage.
ternational Trade Agency. - Municipal
• 8th largest country in the world, with TAXATION NATIONAL TAXES
53% of its land as arable land.
• In Argentina, tax collection efforts INCOME TAX
• Global leading exporter of soy- are carried out at national, provin-
All income is subject to tax. Local sub-
beans, corn, lemon, lithium, among cial, and municipal level by levying
sidiaries of foreign legal entities are
others. taxes on income, assets, and con-
regarded as resident businesses and
sumption.
• 6th producer of beef and 5th ex- are, therefore, subject to tax. The ap-
porter worldwide, present in the • The agency in charge of collecting plicable tax rate is 35% and applies to
NCM-JULY 2021
56
total income. Non-resident businesses sumption of specific goods, such as revenue generated by businesses en-
with no branches or permanent offices tobacco, alcoholic drinks, and luxury gaged in trade, industrial activities,
in Argentina are only subject to local items; they are payable by manufac- agriculture, finance, or professional
income tax. tures or importers. services. It is levied on each commer-
cial transaction at a rate that ranges
VALUE ADDED TAX (VAT) FINANCIAL TRANSACTION TAXES -
from 1,5% to 5%, according to the in-
CREDITS AND DEBITS ON BANK
VAT applies to the values of goods and dustry and area. Nevertheless, certain
ACCOUNTS AND OTHERS
services at every stage of production. primary and industrial activities are
General VAT rate is 21%; nevertheless, A 0,6% general tax is levied on with- exempted from this tax.
the rate for certain goods and services drawals and credits on bank accounts
STAMP DUTY
is set at 10,5% or 27%. Imports are transacted by entities governed by the
subject to the same VAT rate as local Financial Institutions Act. Further- This is a provincial tax placed on the
goods and services. Exports are ex- more, transactions in cash are subject execution of notarial and private docu-
empt from VAT. to a 1.2% rate if conducted through ments, including agreements and other
payment systems in lieu of current large-amount transactions.
MINIMUM PRESUMED INCOME TAX
accounts.
REAL ESTATE TRANSFER TAX
Minimum Presumed Income Tax is
DOUBLE TAXATION AVOIDANCE
payable by legal entities, which are Real estate owners are subject to an
AGREEMENTS
imposed a 1% rate on the value of all annual tax on their real property based
their assets located either in Argentina Argentina has entered into double taxa- on the fiscal value of the land free of
or abroad. It is also applicable to as- tion avoidance agreements with the fol- any improvements and on the improve-
sets located in Argentine and owned lowing countries to provide relief from ments of land, if any. The payable
by foreign individuals or legal entities double taxation on businesses, per- amount is estimated pursuant to the
with a permanent establishment in the sonal income, capital, and assets: laws in force each fiscal year, which
country. set forth the applicable values and rate
• Bolivia • Brazil • Finland • Norway
scales according to the type of prop-
PERSONAL PROPERTY TAX • Spain • Switzerland • The Netherlands
erty.
• Russia • Mexico • Australia • Chile
This tax is imposed on individuals and
• United Kingdom • Denmark • Italy MUNICIPAL TAXES
undivided estates with respect to as-
• Germany • Belgium • Sweden
sets valued at over AR$ 2,000,000. As Municipalities collect taxes imposed on
• France • Canada
of the year 2020, residents are taxed industrial safety services, lighting and
0.25% on personal property. PROVINCIAL TAXES cleaning services, etc. These taxes are
calculated based on public revenue or
EXCISE TAXES GROSS INCOME TAX
other criteria, such as the number of
Excise taxes are levied on the con- Gross Income tax is applicable to the employees.
NCM-JULY 2021
57
TAX INCENTIVES LABOR REGULATIONS 4. Over 20 years of service: 35 calen-
dar days
Tax regulations provide for incentives COMPENSATION (SALARIES AND
for certain activities such as mining, WAGES) New employees who have rendered
forestation, software development, re- services for less than half the busi-
Employees' compensation may be fully
newable energies, research, biotech- ness day of the year are entitled to one
paid in cash or it may be paid both in
nology, and biofuel production. Gener- vacation day for every 20 days of ser-
cash and in kind, i.e. food or accom-
ally, such incentives consist of: vice.
modation. In such case, payments in
• Tax stability for a specified period kind cannot exceed 20% of the total PAID MATERNITY LEAVE
compensation amount.
• Tax credits The law provides for paid maternity
The employer has the obligation to: leave which extends from 45 days be-
• Preferred tax rates fore childbirth to 45 days after deliv-
• Wire-transfer the employee´s sala-
• VAT Exemption ery.
ries to a bank account on their
names. Once this period elapses, women work-
A tax-free area has been established ers can choose to:
in southern Tierra del Fuego where all • Provide a salary slip
the activities and transactions con- 1. Resume working under the working
• Comply with the statutory term of
ducted are exempted from all national conditions before the leave.
payment: salaried employees must
taxes, except for specific activities and be paid at the end of the month, 2. Terminate the employment contract
transactions, which are levied a lower whereas wage earners must re- unilaterally.
rate. ceive their compensation on a
3. Request an unpaid extension of the
LABOR LAW weekly or monthly basis.
maternity leave for an additional pe-
Permanent employment contract STATUTORY ANNUAL EXTRA PAY riod ranging from three to six
months.
Employment contracts in Argentina All workers are entitled to a thirteenth
generally fall within this category, which salary, which is officially referred to as Women workers are entitled to a daily
means the labor relationship may ex- Statutory Annual Extra Payment. Such thirty-minute break to breastfeed her
tend permanently unless a cause of payment is made in two installments: child. This entitlement lasts for one year
termination arises. The law provides for 50% of the total amount is granted by after childbirth.
a three-month probation period. The June 31 and the remaining 50% by
LABOR SAFETY
employer must register the relationship December 31.
with the relevant authority before the Employers have the obligation to pro-
MINIMUM SALARY AND WAGE
lapse of this period. vide insurance to employees to cover
The law establishes the minimum sal- labor risks. To such end, they must ei-
Moreover, the parties are subject to the ary and wage amount. ther self-insure or hire a risk labor risk
rights and obligations arising out the insurance company (in Spanish
Considering the relatively high inflation
employment contract during this pe- Aseguradoras de Riesgos del Trabajo
rate in Argentina, the salaries may
riod, but either party may terminate the or ART), in order to compensate in the
need to be revised multiple times a
employment without cause. In such event of work accidents and diseases.
year.
case, the employee is not entitled to
SOCIAL SECURITY
severance payment. LABOR REGULATIONS
Businesses undertake to make the
Special employment contracts ANNUAL VACATION
relevant contributions in connection
In order to provide an adequate frame- Annual vacation is paid time off em- with social security services for their
work, the law sets forth special forms ployers grant to their employees. employees. Such contributions include
of employment: family allowances, union health insur-
The length of vacations varies accord-
ance, pensions, and contributions to
ing to the employee´s seniority:
1. Fixed-term contracts unemployment funds. Contributions
1. From 6 months to 5 years of ser- represent 27% of the gross salary of
2. Seasonal employment contracts
vice: 14 calendar days employees that render services and
3. Contingency employment agree- 23% of the gross salary of the rest of
2. From 5 to 10 years of service: 21
ment the employees.
calendar days
4. Team employment contracts COMPULSORY LIFE INSURANCE
3. From 10 to 20 years of service: 28
(Source: Labor Law no. 20,744.) calendar days The employer must obtain an insur-
NCM-JULY 2021
58
ance policy within thirty days of the per cent for work performed thereafter facture a variety of products, which
commencement of the employment and on public holidays. The law estab- is further facilitated by the skilled
relationship. lishes the maximum overtime limit labor available in the country.
which shall not exceed 200 hours per
MINIMUM WORKING AGE • Smart textiles are a niche market
year or 30 hours per month.
that opens up new long-term invest-
The minimum working age is 16 years
LABOR UNIONS ment opportunities and could very
old.
well reach new segments that pri-
The workers may opt to join a union.
DISMISSAL oritize utility and high quality over
Most workers are unionized in Argen-
price.
None of the parties can terminate the tina. There are collective bargaining
employment contract without giving agreements to protect the workers, • Taxes and structural costs associ-
prior notice. which shows the degree of influence ated with the production affect the
these unions have. final sale price. Furthermore, com-
The minimum notice period is set
petition from certain Asian countries
by the law as follows: RELEVANT LEGISLATION
had also had an impact given their
1. For the employee: 15 days LEGAL FRAMEWORK cost advantage.
2. For the employer: 15 days for em- The Argentine Law provides for the • The growth of E-commerce in 2020,
ployees under probation period, one protection of foreign investors and their consolidating a local trend of the
month when the worker's length of ser- projects. Argentina has entered into last decade, configures a new chan-
vice is less than five years, and two several bilateral investment treaties nel to develop clothing sales.
months, when the length of service with other countries. It is a member
exceeds five years. country of the Multilateral Investment USEFUL INFORMATION
Guarantee Agency (MIGA), which pro-
Due to the impact of COVID-19, the ARGENTINE INDUSTRIAL CHAM-
vides guarantees to protect invest-
National Government, through Decree BER OF CLOTHING (CIAI)
ments against non-commercial risks.
891/2020 of March 31, later extended Website: www.ciaindumentaria.com.ar
in May, July, September and Novem- INVESTMENT MODEL
ber, dismissals without just cause and ARGENTINE FEDERATION OF TEX-
Foreign investors can start their busi- TILE COMPANIES (FITA)
due to lack or reduction of work and
nesses in three ways: setting up a for- www.fita.com.ar
force are prohibited until the end of
eign branch, acquiring ownership in an
January 2021.
existing company or creating a new ARGENTINE COTTON CHAMBER
EMPLOYMENT RELATIONSHIP company. www.camaraalgodonera.com.ar
RECORDS
CORPORATE AND BUSINESS ACT PRO TEJER FOUNDATION
The employer has the obligation to reg- www.fundacionprotejer.com
Law No. 19,550 (amended and renamed
ister the employment relationship with
as General Corporate and Business
the relevant authorities. In the event NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF STATIS-
Law No. 26,994). Sets forth the differ-
of termination of contract, the em- TICS AND CENSUSES (INDEC)
ent business forms available. The most
ployer must give relevant notice to the www.indec.gob.ar/
popular business forms among foreign
Social Security Registry.
investors are Sociedades Anónimas MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS,
The duly registration of the employment (S.A.)— Corporations— and INTERNATIONAL TRADE AND
relationship allows workers to enjoy the Sociedades de Responsabilidad WORKSHIP
social security benefits granted by the Limitada (S.R.L.) — Limited Liability www.cancilleria.gob.ar/
law. Companies or LLCs.
MINISTRY OF PRODUCTIVE DEVEL-
OVERTIME FOREIGN INVESTMENT LAW OPMENT OF THE NATION
Law No. 21,382 Sets forth the condi- www.argentina.gob.ar/produccion
In Argentina, working time is 48 hours
per week with a limit of nine hours a tions for foreign investors to invest and
MINISTRY OF ECONOMY OF THE
day (six hours a day for work performed transact business in the country. It fur-
NATION
under hazardous conditions). Night ther provides for the expansion of ex-
www.argentina.gob.ar/economia
working time is limited to seven- hour isting investment undertakings.
shifts. Overtime is permitted with cer- (Courtesy: Embassy of India in Buenos
CONCLUSION
tain restrictions. Overtime rate is 50 Aires, Argentina that commissioned
per cent, for work performed on week- • Argentina offers investment oppor- this study. The study was conducted
days and Saturday mornings, and 100 tunities for those seeking to manu- by PME Consultores & OH! PANEL.)
NCM-JULY 2021
59
Proudly Made in Bangladesh by Engelbert Strauss
First Chair for Sustainability & Textile Innovation in Bangladesh Established by Engelbert Strauss
Engelbert Strauss is one of the world's leading manufacturers of workwear and safety. Strauss generates the
majority of sales, which exceeded the billion mark for the first time in 2019, online, making it one of the top 5 online
retailers in Germany. The company, based in the Hessian Main-Kinzig district, employs 1,400 people and manufac-
tures in 31 countries worldwide with a focus on Southeast Asia - especially in Bangladesh.
Under the motto "Proudly made in Bangladesh", the family business is committed to promoting skills and thus
long-term value creation in the country. The latest building blocks: a chair for sustainability and textile innovation
and the construction of a development campus in Chittagong. In February 2020, Strauss initiated the establish-
ment of a professorship for sustainability and textile innovation at Ahsanullah University in Dhaka. The company of
the Society for International Cooperation (GIZ) and the United Nations University (UNU) cooperated for this. In
autumn 2021, the development and training campus in Chittagong is to be completed, which forms a production
stand with the CIFactory in the Main-Kinzig district. In its role as a growing player and influencer in the textile
industry, the company assumes social responsibility.
Given below are some extracts from

the 2020-21 social report of Engelbert
Strauss pertaining to their operations
in Bangladesh.
We have been producing in

Bangladesh since 2006 and it has be-
come our most important production
country over the years. Thanks to our
long-term cooperation, our partner
businesses have developed an out-
standing level of expertise in the pro-
duction of sophisticated textiles com-
pared with the country’s typical stan-
dards. This particularly benefits the
workers, who are offered wages that
are higher than average.
In Bangladesh, we manufactured 36 the training systems and workers’ basic financial support during the
percent of our high-tech clothing at 12 knowledge of their labour rights. A com- lockdown and if they fell ill. We were in
production sites in 2020. Compared to plaint was also raised at this partner constant contact with suppliers regard-
the previous year, the production vol- business with regard to the granting of ing the effects of the coronavirus.
ume decreased by 0.25 percent. One social benefits to former workers.
The other production sites in
new production site was added in 2020.
One of the visits was a follow-up visit. Bangladesh have been audited on de-
This already had audit reports that re-
This showed that agreed corrective mand since 2016. The businesses
flected positively on the company. We
action had been taken and that hygiene have been found to be fully or largely
confirmed these findings in an advance
measures aimed at preventing COVID- compliant with important requirements
visit made on our behalf.
19 infections had been implemented. in respect of social and environmental
On account of the coronavirus pan- However, the auditors had doubts as standards in most categories. The au-
demic, only one audit could be con- to the correctness of docu- ments re- ditors’ proposed improvements have
ducted on our partner businesses by lating to working time and payment. mainly related to management of so-
Fair Wear Foundation and three visits Visits to another two production sites cial standards, freedom of association
by an external service provider in 2020. indicated that a variety of measures and collective bargaining, and occu-
The audit confirmed the high level of aimed at minimising the risk of COVID- pational health and safety. Our part-
implementation of social standards. 19 infection had also been im- ners also worked on implementing the
However, there were areas in need of plemented there. Moreover, it was con- corrective action plans in 2020. They
improvement, especially in respect of firmed that the workers were given updated us at all times.
NCM-JULY 2021
60
Proudly made in Bangladesh – this claim is also reflected in our figures: our orders pro-
vide for around 8,000 jobs in the three largest partner businesses alone. Overall, we work
with 12 businesses in Bangladesh, who account for 36 percent of our production.
Proudly Made In Bangladesh by

Engelbert Strauss
This is what Steffen and Henning
Strauss have to say about their asso-
ciation with Bangladesh
BANGLADESH. Bustling streets, myr-
iads of busy people, rickshaws boldly
weaving their way through the crowds.
A vibrant setting. Like a busy scene
from a hidden picture book. Often the
country is associated solely with ques-
tionable working conditions, however.
We have formed our own impressions
first hand – Bangladesh has become
our most important country of produc-
tion. We have been impressed by the Steffen & Henning Strauss
warmth of the people since day one.
This has helped us to establish good why we have decided to become ac- like in a think tank. Glue or sew? Scis-
partnerships based on trust over the tively involved in education also there. sors or lasers? We are creating a place
years – and even personal friendships for the further development, testing and
‘Proudly Made in Bangladesh’ – What
in some cases. This trust and stability promotion of the latest processing
Does This Mean?
enables us to further improve produc- technologies in the world of textiles.
tion conditions. Steffen Strauss: 36 percent of our The campus trainers will be prepared
products are manufactured in Bang- for their role by taking a course curat-
Everything began back in 2006, initial- ladesh. This makes it our most impor- ed by Engelbert Strauss at the Ahsan-
ly with T-shirts, polo shirts and sweat- tant production country. Good partner- ullah University of Science and Tech-
shirts. Joint investment in technology ships based on trust – and even per- nology (AUST) in Bangladesh.
and training has taken our production sonal friendships – have developed
Engelbert Strauss as the Curator of
partners to a new level. over fourteen years of doing business
a University Cooperation – What
“We have also been manufacturing there. Bangladesh is a country that has
Does This Involve?
sophisticated cargo trousers and high- seen its share of controversy. But we
would like to open people’s eyes to Steffen Strauss: Together with Deut-
quality winter jackets in Bangladesh
another Bangladesh. Here at Engelbert sche Gesellschaft für Inter- nationale
since 2012. We are proud to have
Strauss, we see the country’s oppor- Zusammenarbeit (GIZ), we have set
achieved this in a country that is only
tunities and potential. Through our ef- up a cooperation at Bangladesh’s
getting started in terms of its econom-
forts, such as the construction of the AUST university. As part of a newly
ic development in many sectors."
campus in the paddies, we are shap- established chair, candidates have
Our production facilities are among the ing our future vision of Bangladesh. been appointed to the positions of As-
best in the country. At many of our sistant Professor and Lecturer. They
partners, seamstresses are paid far The Campus in The Paddies – What will conduct research at AUST and
more than the national average. By in- is That All About? impart knowledge based on the latest
vesting in technical infrastructure and international research into sustainabil-
training and by working closely with our Henning Strauss: Our campus in the ity and textile innovation to future pro-
partners, we have been able to create paddies is taking shape in the pictur- fessional and managerial staff in the
the necessary conditions for the pro- esque surroundings of Chittagong. We country’s textile industry.
duction of sophisticated products. are building the world’s first Workwear
Academy in rural south Bangladesh. First Chair for Sustainability and Tex-
This also means greater added value Local young talents will learn and re- tile Innovation in Bangladesh
in Bangladesh. Of course, there is still search at the campus together with
a lot to do yet in the country. That is trainees from all over the world, just Engelbert Strauss has established
NCM-JULY 2021
61
Engelbert Strauss builds a development center for work clothing in southern Bangladesh. The Chittagong campus,
together with the CI Factory on the Thistle Lawn, forms a production stand for individualized workwear. As a think tank,
it is closely linked to the chair for sustainability and textile innovation established by Strauss.
In Chittagong, a region in rural south Bangladesh, we are currently building our campus in
the paddies – a joint project to create the world’s first Workwear Academy.
This is where the workwear of the future will be made and where we will test and operate the latest processing
technologies in the world of textiles. With our long-standing production partners located right nearby, we will be able to
provide extensive training to young employees. Talented people from all over the world will learn and research at the
campus alongside local trainees, just like in a think tank. The campus in the paddies is closely linked with our
university cooperation: as part of the course curated by Engelbert Strauss at AUST, teachers will be trained using the
‘train the trainer’ method so that they can subsequently pass on their knowledge in tailored teaching modules at the
campus in the paddies.
In impressively scenic surroundings, we are building a facility where we can engage in dialogue with our stakeholders.
Right in the place where we are committed to improving social standards. We will take our employees with us to
Chittagong, where they will be able to see for themselves the roots of our products. And we want to invite partners,
non-governmental organisations, journalists and other interest groups to visit our ‘walk-through social report’.
We had hoped to be ready by late 2020, but have had to adjust our plans on account of the pandemic. Thanks to good
cooperation with our long-standing partners, we have already achieved an intermediate goal: some young profes-
sionals have been able to begin their extensive training and put our innovative processing technologies into opera-
tion.
We want to plant new images in people’s minds with the campus in the paddies – our vision of a future Bangladesh,
you might say. Our Chittagong campus will bring this vision to life while creating more complex textiles and generating
greater added value. Bangladesh is impressive. Bangladesh is vibrant. We want to do our bit with edu- cational
projects. And we are delighted to already say today that our products are proudly made in Bangladesh!
NCM-JULY 2021
62
First Chair for Sustainability and Tex-
tile Innovation in Bangladesh. “Nothing is more sustainable than education!” Steffen
Strauss
We believe in Bangladesh. And we
believe in the sustainable impact of
“We are convinced that education is the most sustain-
education. That is why we are estab-
lishing the first Chair for Sustainability able form of social and ecological engagement and will
and Textile Innovation in Bangladesh. benefit the country and its people for generations.”
Our goal is to permanently improve skill Henning Strauss
sets with regard to social respon-
sibility, environmental protection and We want to work with the students on
technical innovation in the country. developing solutions aimed at boost-
ing corporate sustainability. In partic-
We began an intensive dialogue with
ular, we intend to cover social and
GIZ, Deutsche Gesellschaft für
ecological sustainability along the en-
Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH,
tire product life cycle: from product
at the beginning of 2019. This has re-
design, material procurement, produc-
sulted in the establishment of a uni-
tion and the utilisation phase through
versity cooperation that will lead to the
to end-of-life textiles and the possibil-
endowment of the first Chair for
ities to reuse and recycle them. Tak-
Sustainability and Textile Innovation.
ing the latest technologies into con-
The Ahsanullah University of Science
sideration, of course. The Social mod-
and Technology (AUST) in Dhaka is the
ule will deal with content such as slow
Bangladeshi partner university. In this
fashion, UN SDG standards and so-
context, AUST is cooperating with the
cial life cycle assessment. The Envi-
United Nations University Institute for
ronment module will include circular
Integrated Management of Material
fashion, eco-labelling, nature-based
Fluxes and of Resources (UNU-
solutions and zero discharge of haz-
FLORES) based in Dresden as well as
ardous chemicals. The overarching
the Dresden University of Technology, Rashed Al Mizan began his train- goal is to trigger a transformation and
which are contributing their expertise ing for the Assistant Professor role train the future decision-makers in the
in the areas of sustainability and inno- in Feb/March 2020 textile sector for the long term.
vation to the partnership.
In March 2020, we joined with the fessional and managerial staff in Bangladesh’s textile industry. Over the year
project partners in appointing a candi- ahead, given the situation allows for it, he will take advantage of facilities in
date to the position of an Assistant Dresden and at the Engelbert Strauss headquarters to prepare for his lecturing
Professor. Rashed, an engineer, holds duty.
a Bachelor’s degree in textile engineer- Engelbert Strauss has hired the former parliamentary state secretary Dr.
ing and a Master’s in materials science, Peter Tauber as company spokesman
began his training for the Assistant
The former member of the Bundestag also becomes head of the newly formed
Professor role – the next milestone in
our university cooperation. He was in-
volved in several research projects in
the areas of sustainable fabrics, ma-
terial cycles and processing. He is
currently furthering his qualifications by
taking (virtual) courses at our partner
universities, the United Nations Univer-
sity Institute for Integrated Manage-
ment of Material Fluxes and of Re-
sources (UNU-FLORES) and the
Dresden University of Technology.
He will conduct research at AUST and
impart knowledge based on the latest
international research into sustainabil-
ity and textile innovation to future pro-
NCM-JULY 2021
63
unit for communication and social re-
sponsibility and oversees the chair for
sustainability in Bangladesh. To begin
with, he will moderate a discussion for-
mat on the topic of "Proudly made in
Bangladesh - education and high-
tech for sustainable development"
as part of the Frankfurt Fashion Week.
Main-Kinzig - Peter Tauber chooses his
home and withdraws from Berlin's top
politics. The Engelbert Strauss family
business was able to win over the cov-
eted former parliamentary state sec-
retary as company spokesman and
head of the newly created unit for com-
munication and social responsibility.
The doctor of history will also oversee
the chair for sustainability and textile
innovation in Bangladesh, which
Strauss has established.
Together with the Society for Interna-
tional Cooperation (GIZ) Engelbert
Strauss founded a university coopera-
tion, partners are the United Nations
University (UNU), the Technical Univer-
sity of Dresden and the Ahsanullah
University in Dhaka.
As part of the Frankfurt Fashion Week,
Peter Tauber will moderate a panel on
the subject of "Proudly made in
Bangladesh - education and high-
tech for sustainable development" -
guests are GIZ board member Tanja
Gönner, Alexander Kohnstamm, Man-
aging Director of the Fair Wear Foun-
dation and one of the finalists of the
Special Award Workwear Couture
hosted by Strauss, which is also
awarded as part of the Fashion Week.
The family-owned company sees the
obligation of the former member of the
Bundestag as a great opportunity to
help shape the discourse in the indus-
try and beyond as a growing economic
player. “Strauss is growing and the in-
dustry is increasingly looking at us. We
assume this role by setting topics and
helping to shape the public debate
based on our values. With his experi-
ence and network, Peter Tauber is the
right man for us. It will give us and the
discourse valuable impulses, ”says
Henning Strauss. “I am happy to be
able to take on such an exciting pro- Peter Tauber’s Facebook post
NCM-JULY 2021
64
fessional challenge on the doorstep.
Engelbert Strauss is a versatile em-
ployer who attaches great importance
to the satisfaction of his employees.
Returning home gives me more time
with my family. For me, that's the per-
fect overall package, ”says Peter
Tauber. Strauss also emphasizes the
longstanding personal connection. “Pe-
ter and I already know each other from
school, at the same time we learned
to discuss and debate at the
Grimmelshausen Gymnasium in
Gelnhausen and share a common ba-
sis of values. I am very pleased that
Peter chose his home region and us In the CI Factory, which sees itself as a think tank, Strauss creates a plat-
as an attractive employer with his out- form for the exchange with stakeholders on relevant topics such as digiti-
standing biography." zation or the future of the textile industry.
Peter Tauber On Strauss and
Bangladesh. A Story to tell.
“Clear case: We are about workwear.

And we produce around the globe. But
why is Bangladesh particularly impor-
tant to us? And who are our local part-
ners? Why are we involved in the coun-
try beyond production? All information
Let’s Talk. Proudly Made in Bangladesh
is available here in brief. We speak to
Christian Bochmann, our local contact How does sustainable clothing work? And why do we say "Proudly Made in
at GIZ, and to Rashed Al Mizan, who Bangladesh" about our products? Peter Tauber talks about this with the boss of
heads the Strauss-funded chair at the GIZ, Tanja Gönner and Alexander Kohnstamm from the Fair Wear Foundation,
Ahsanullah University of Science and as well as Shirin Araghi, one of the participants in our Special Awards Workwear
Technology in Dhaka.” Watch the video Couture as part of the European Fashion Awards FASH.
on https://youtu.be/_e4rb9brtTE or
Here you will find all information and facts about sustainability, our commitment
Scan the following barcode to view the on site as well as ideas about what the fashion and textile industry can do in the
above video. future. https://youtu.be/Rmn4BjWIuOc. Scan the following barcode to view the
above video.
Contact details:
Engelbert Strauss GmbH & Co. KG
Frankfurter Straße 98 - 108 | 63599 Biebergemünd
Phone: 0 60 50 / 97 10 12 | Fax: 0 60 50 / 97 10 90 | Email: info@strauss.de
NCM-JULY 2021
65
The Swiss Textile and Clothing Industry: A Report
The upswing in the textile and clothing industry paused in the first two months of the
current year. The economy picked up again in March. The majority of textile and cloth-
ing companies have high expectations for early summer. With Corinna Fischer, COO
at Textilcolor AG, we take a look at India, where the pandemic is currently particularly
raging. This report is authored by Jasmin Schmid, Member of the management board
of Swiss Textiles, an association of over 200 internationally oriented SMEs. As an
association, Swiss Textiles ensures that their industry remains internationally com-
petitive. We are presenting it here through the courtesy of Swiss Textiles.
As long as travel remains restricted and there are no trade

fairs, the industry drives with the handbrake on.
The Current Situation Of The Swiss first quarter, exports to the United not yet the order of the day in exports.
Textile and Clothing Industry Kingdom plunged 22 percent in textiles As long as travel remains restricted
and 37 percent in clothing. This is due and there are no trade fairs, the indus-
The start of the year brought difficult
to the lack of free market access to try drives with the handbrake on.
framework conditions. Due to the new
the UK despite free trade agreements.
virus variants from Great Britain and After all, textile exports increased by
Overall, textile exports fell by four per-
South Africa, the Federal Council in- around ten percent and are thus head-
cent in the first quarter.
troduced the renewed closure of shops ing in the right direction.
with goods that were not used every Compared to March 2020, in which the
The monthly Swiss Economic Institute
day, which also affected our industry, western world stood still, textile ex-
(KOF) indicators also show that the
on January 18. In addition to Switzer- ports increased by around ten percent
textile and clothing manufacturing in-
land, our neighboring countries also and are thus heading in the right direc-
dustry has reacted to the tightened
tightened the measures to combat the tion. Due to catch-up effects, things
measures. In January and February the
coronavirus. At the same time a sec- are currently looking dynamic in the
assessment of the order situation de-
ond Danaer present from Great Britain clothing sector. This shows an adjusted
teriorated markedly and the recovery
arrived. plus of around twelve percent for the
of the business situation paused in
first quarter.
Since January 1st, Brexit has not only February. With the easing of the mea-
been expressed on paper, but also in Compared to March 2020, clothing sures from March 1st and the reopen-
corporate reality. These developments exports experienced an increase of ing of shops with goods that are not
are visible in the trade statistics. In the over 70 percent. However, euphoria is used every day, the upswing contin-
NCM-JULY 2021
66
ued again. However, the assessment
of the order situation and that of the Capacity Utilization in Percent: Processing Industry
business situation still remain at an in-
adequate level and lag behind the de-
velopment of the industry as a whole.
The first quarter is mixed up for the
textile and clothing wholesale trade.
Since the beginning of the crisis, the
business situation has been congru-
ent with that of total wholesale, how-
ever, with more striking setbacks and
chases to catch up. In the first quarter
she managed to recover strongly. On
the other hand, the demand for services
in the textile and clothing wholesale
trade is extremely volatile. It suffered
another slump in the first quarter of
2021, while demand for wholesale ser-
Business Situation (Balance): Manufacturing Industry
vices increased.
In parallel to that of the industry as a
whole, but at a lower level, the utiliza-
tion of production capacities in the tex-
tile and clothing industry moved up-
wards in the first quarter. It is 77 per-
cent in the first quarter. It has not yet
reached pre-crisis levels, but it is on
track.
Since the low in July, the general busi-

ness situation of textile and clothing
companies has been climbing with little
breather. It's a tough fight. The balance
still points to an inadequate valuation.
In March, 33 percent of companies
rated their business situation as bad,
nine percent as good and 58 percent Order Backlog (Balance): Manufacturing Industry
as satisfactory.
In the first two months of the year there

was a slump in the order situation. The
month of March brought the order situ-
ation back to the level of December
2020 and compensated for the decline.
In March, 55 percent of the textile and
clothing companies reported an order
book that was too small, six percent a
large one and 39 percent a normal or-
der backlog.
The business situation in the textile
and clothing wholesaling business
reached positive territory again with
great momentum. In April, 26 percent
of the companies rated their business At 31 percent of the companies in the mained the same for six percent and
situation as good, 22 percent as bad textile and clothing wholesale trade, fell at 63 percent. As a result, the de-
and 52 percent as satisfactory. demand rose in the first quarter, re- mand for services in the textile and
NCM-JULY 2021
67
clothing wholesale business collapsed
in the first quarter of 2021 and again
Business Situation (Balance): Wholesale
fell into negative territory. Meanwhile,
the demand in total wholesale in-
creased.
The business situation shows the over-
all economic condition of the company.
The test participants answer the ques-
tion: "We currently rate the business
situation overall as good, satisfactory,
bad." The order backlog comprises the
quantity or the value of the customer
orders that have not yet been pro-
cessed. The test participants answer
the question: "We judge the total order
backlog as large, normal, too small."
The demand includes the demand for
services at home and abroad. The test Demand (Balance): Wholesale
participants answer the question: "The
demand for our services has increased,
stayed the same, decreased in the last
three months."
The seasonally adjusted balance of
positive and negative responses is
shown for the four indicators . This
shows the tendency of the develop-
ment. In practice, the balances show
a high correlation with the actual growth
rates of the real indicators. The infor-
mation on the positive and negative an-
swers (percentages in the text) are not
seasonally adjusted. (Source: KOF
ETHZ)
Foreign Trade
EMPLOYEES
In the first quarter of 2021, textiles to
the value of 297 million francs were Q4 2019 Q4 2020
exported. This corresponds to a de- Employed textile, clothing, shoe and leather 12,754 12,403
crease of 4.0 percent compared to the industries by full-time equivalents
same quarter of the previous year.
Clothing exports are up 10.9 percent Source: Federal Statistical Office
and amount to 719 million francs. Ad-
justed for the returned goods, clothing LOCATION IN THE LABOR MARKET
exports rose by 12.4 percent and MARCH 2020 MARCH 2021
amount to 234 million francs.
Manufacturing industry
In the first quarter of 2021, textiles to Unemployed textile and clothing industry 367 549
the value of 582.7 million Swiss francs
were imported. This corresponds to an Unemployment rate textile and clothing industry 3.7% 5.6%
increase of 17.7 percent compared to
Sources: State Secretariat for Economic Affairs
the same quarter of the previous year.
The clothing imports recorded an in- 15.5% and amount to CHF 1.57 billion. in Europe rises and temperatures rise,
crease of 14.2% and amount to 2.06 confidence rises that the measures to
Outlook and Expectations
billion Swiss francs. Adjusted for re- contain the virus can be relaxed fur-
turned goods, clothing imports rose by As the number of people vaccinated ther in the coming weeks. The major-
NCM-JULY 2021
68
ity of expectations for early summer
are high, both in the textile and cloth-
ing industry and in the textile and cloth-
ing wholesale trade.
After the majority of companies in the
Swiss textile and clothing manufactur-
ing industry assumed that orders would
fall in the first quarter, the mood turned
back into positive territory. For the sec-
ond quarter, 25 percent of the compa-
nies surveyed by the KOF anticipate
higher orders, nine percent are still ex-
pecting fewer orders and 56 percent
do not expect any change. With regard
to employment, confidence increased
significantly. It even just penetrated
into positive territory and reached the
level of the extremely successful year
2018. Eleven percent of the companies
surveyed assume an increase in the
number of employees, eight percent
assume a decrease and 81 percent
expect the same number of employ-
ees. For the first time in almost three
years, more companies are expecting
an increase in the number of employ-
ees than a reduction. In terms of sales
prices, 17 percent expect an increase,
83 percent do not expect any change.
None of the companies surveyed are
expecting a decrease. In view of the
massive increase in raw material and
transport costs, it is questionable how
much of the expected increase in sales
prices will remain with the companies.
For exports, expectations have re-
mained consistently in the negative
range. 14 percent assume that exports
in raw material and transport costs at percent do not expect any change in
will rise and 18 percent assume that
the wholesale level is even greater. For the development of demand.
exports will decrease. For 68 percent,
wholesalers, too, the question arises
the export situation remains un- Interview With Corinna Fischer
whether the margins will actually in-
changed. From these expectations it COO, Textilcolor AG
crease. With regard to employment,
becomes clear once again that the
the Swiss textile and clothing whole- Textilcolor AG is a specialist in textile
export industry will only be given a
salers are slightly more confident about chemistry - from specialty chemistry
boost for improvement.
the second than the first quarter. How- for the textile industry to dyes and pig-
In the Swiss textile and clothing whole- ever, expectations remain negative. ments. A global company, represented
sale companies surveyed by the KOF, Two percent expect an increasing, 33 in over 40 countries from Brazil to
expectations regarding an increase in percent a decreasing and 65 percent a Morocco to India. Textilcolor AG is one
sales prices have risen even more constant number of employees. There of the world's leading companies in the
markedly than in the textile and cloth- is optimism regarding the development production of sustainable textile chem-
ing manufacturing industry. Almost half of demand for the second quarter. 42 istry. She is an industrial partner of
of the companies surveyed assume percent of the companies surveyed bluesign®technologies.
that sales prices will rise. The other half believe in an increase in the demand
expects prices to remain the same. for their services, while only 21 per- As an exporter of textile chemicals,
With the multiplier effect, the increase cent expect a decrease in demand. 37 Textilcolor can follow the recovery
NCM-JULY 2021
69
Corinna Fischer
COO, Textilcolor AG
of the textile producers almost at the
same time. Aside from China, which
producing countries are recovering
the fastest?
We were able to determine that the
order situation with our customers in
the EU, especially in Germany, Hun-
gary and Poland, improved faster in
terms of value and volume than in the
fourth quarter of 2020. We were able
to achieve a significant increase in or-
ders from our customers in South
America and India and experience
Russia. The demand from our Swiss
customers remained stable with a
slight upward trend. Unfortunately, our
customers from North African countries
are still deep in the Corona crisis, which
can be derived from very little demand
activity.
The pandemic is currently particu-

larly bad in India. To what extent
does this affect Indian textile pro-
duction?
We are following the situation in India

with great concern because the num-
ber of unreported cases of infected
people is probably even higher than
communicated in the media and be-
cause the economic consequences for
the next few months cannot be as-
sessed. Since the majority of our long-
standing Indian customers produce for
the American market, the order situa-
tion has developed very positively for
Textilcolor since the beginning of 2021.
Contd. On Page 74
NCM-JULY 2021
70
COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™ Online Consulting Helps Increase Profits After Pandemic
The global supply chain continues to
face the impact of the Covid-19 pan-
demic, with new challenges arising
continuously as the textile industry is
in the recovery phase. For factories
and manufacturers, these challenges
affect operations and resources, as
well as relationships with brands and
retailers.
Concerns about the “future” and long-

term effects of the Covid pandemic are
certainly at the forefront of supply
chain planners. They will need to adopt
new strategies in terms of cost, time
and quality to ensure sustainable sup-
ply chain operations in the future.
But what can manufacturers and busi-

nesses do in the near term to achieve TON USA offers the latest Microsoft COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™ recently
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ited due to the Covid-19 epidemic, so-
vice. experts, the plant is expected to
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increasing production capacity by 4.5%
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NCM-JULY 2021
71
around the world with the COTTON
USA™ label. We are very focused on
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About COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™
In 2020, COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™
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Virtual Mill Doctor™ service. Propri-
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in the mill, and thus increasing finan-
cial performance. The name of the fac-
tory and the program data are kept “Plan B – Biobased.Business.Bavaria.” organised by BioCampus Straubing
secret at this time. ©German Popp
At the same time, she was enthusiastic about the scope of the competition: “62
Kelheim Fibres pre- applications from Germany and all over the world show how much creative
sents award at “Plan B” potential has been mobilised here. At the same time, the start-ups prove that
their ideas also work economically. Only the combination of both will really
start-up competition move us forward and make our dream of a bio-based economy a reality.”
For the fourth time, the international Driving the change from a fossil-based to a bio-based economy is a declared
star t-up competition “Plan B – goal of Kelheim Fibres – their speciality fibres are replacing fossil materials in
Biobased.Business.Bavaria.” organ- more and more applications. To this end, the fibre manufacturer seeks inspira-
ised by BioCampus Straubing ho- tion and exchange within its own industry as well as with innovation partners
noured the best new business ideas in from outside the industry, start-ups and science in an open innovation approach.
the field of biobased solutions. “The cooperation with BioCampus Straubing is very valuable for us,” says Crnoja-
Dr Marina Crnoja-Cosic, Director New Cosic. “Here we find people who share our passion for seeking innovative an-
Business Development, and Matthew swers to previously unsolved needs.”
North, Commercial Director, represent-
ed Kelheim Fibres at the award cere-
mony. The manufacturer of special vis-
Rising Costs: German Textile Cleaning Associa-
cose fibres has been working with the tion (DTV) warns of price dumping
BioCampus Straubing for many years
and is a supporter of the competition, The recovery hoped for in professional textile care for the second half of 2021
this year as prize sponsors. could not materialize because: energy prices are rising, wages are being raised
and since the beginning of the year cotton prices have also been rising - by up
In this capacity, Dr. Crnoja-Cosic was to 50 percent depending on the variety. On the occasion of this development,
honoured to congratulate the newly the German Textile Cleaning Association (DTV) warns of dangerous price wars
founded team of Microbify GmbH on within the industry.
their third place and present them with
a cheque for 3,000 Euros. As a spin- The pressure in the textile care industry is growing. Most hotels and restau-
off from the University of Regensburg, rants are delivering laundry again, but booting up after lockdown reveals an-
Microbify works, among other things, other problem: costs rise in many areas. This applies to energy and raw mate-
on the use of old natural gas storage rial prices as well as costs caused by the pandemic, for example in the form of
facilities for the production of green nat- corona tests or additional hygiene measures. This situation intensifies compe-
ural gas using extremophilic microor- tition. Companies do not want to lose their economically troubled customers.
ganisms. Dr. Crnoja-Cosic particularly DTV President warns of price war
praised the approach of reusing exist-
ing infrastructure in an innovative way. Against this background, the German Textile Cleaning Association (DTV) warns
NCM-JULY 2021
72
Textile Services provide communities throughout the world with a supply of hygienic and reliable textiles, while
also contributing to local economies and creating thousands of jobs in the process.
of a price war in the industry, as it is ing to DTV, it is more expensive than ever. The increased costs reflect the
already emerging in other countries. political will to replace fossil fuels with renewable energy. Therefore, experts
"Now that many of our customer in- do not expect a turnaround, on the contrary, some even expect the certifi-
dustries are gaining momentum again, cate prices to double this year.
we shouldn't present our high-quality
Every day, millions of people across Europe wear, sleep on, eat off or use
service on the market with dumping of-
rental textiles in some way or other. Rental textiles include workwear and pro-
fers, but realistically price in the large
tective clothing, corporate business wear, hospital and surgical textiles, tex-
cost increases, " emphasizes Friedrich
tiles for hotels, restaurants and care homes, hand-drying towels, floor mats and
Eberhard, DTV President and owner of
mops and industrial wipers. Textile services include textile selection, garment
a textile service company.
manufacturing, stock management, logistics and delivery, care and mainte-
Textile care companies: These factors nance.
drive up costs
The sector includes textile services companies, as well as the detergent, fabric
- The personnel costs make loud and garment manufacturers. This industry is a major contributor to the Euro-
DTV industry in companies with pean economy. Renting textiles is the alternative to owning textiles or using
around 45 percent of the largest disposables. With the increased trend for outsourcing as a cost effective solu-
cost is 2021, the minimum wage tion for businesses, the future of this industry looks bright.
increased by 2.6 percent -. And
therefore the percentage of person-
nel costs. In the industry's collec-
Avient Launches Moisture-Resistant Nylon 6 and
tive agreements, the parties agreed 6/6 Complet™ Long Fiber Composites with En-
on similar wage increases.
hanced Appearance
- According to the DTV, around 23
percent of the costs in textile ser- Avon Lake, Ohio (USA) headquartered Avient has announced availability of a
vice are caused by the procurement new series of nylon-based Complet™ long fiber reinforced thermoplastic com-
of textiles . For polyester fibers, the posites with enhanced moisture resistance and smooth surface aesthetics.
price rose by an average of more These formulations feature nylon 6 and 6/6 with delayed moisture absorption,
than 20 percent from May 2020 to which prolongs the effectiveness of their structural performance in moisture-
May 2021. For some types of cot- rich environments.
ton, the price rose by 50 percent.
These new materials also take aim at inconsistent surface appearance issues
- Another factor that hits the textile with long fiber polyamides, which have affected quality perceptions in the past.
care industry hard: raw material Long glass fiber reinforced grades of Complet moisture-resistant nylon feature
prices . The oil price almost doubled surfaces that are smooth and virtually free of visible fiber, making it suitable for
in the past twelve months. Accord- a wide range of consumer applications.
ing to the DTV, energy costs cause
around seven percent of the costs Complet moisture-resistant nylon 6 and 6/6 grades are globally available in
in dry cleaning and laundries. In several fiber loading levels (weight percentages) using long glass fiber, long
addition, the CO 2 certificates be- carbon fiber, or hybrid combinations. This allows the materials to retain struc-
came more expensive . While the tural properties that fall between those of standard and specialty nylons when
price in March 2020 was less than exposed to moisture. As a result, the materials are ideal for metal replacement
16 euros per ton, it will be around and lightweighting initiatives in automotive and powersports applications that
50 euros in May 2021 - and accord- encounter varying climates or intermittent exposure to water.
NCM-JULY 2021
73
“When manufacturers wanted to quell
performance concerns by limiting mois-
ture absorption for nylon 6 or 6/6, the
only options were less hygroscopic
and more costly specialty nylons,” said
Eric Wollan, general manager of
Avient’s long fiber technologies.
“Avient’s new line of moisture-resistant
nylon LFTs are modified to absorb
moisture more slowly. This significantly
prolongs the effectiveness of a part’s
structural capabilities in humid environ-
ments or during short-term water im-
mersion, but at a more economical
price point.”
Additionally, Complet nylon grades pro-
vide lower shrink for applications that
require high dimensional stability. In
effect, they serve as a material solu-
tion to combat warp distortion from Avient’s new line of Complet moisture resistant nylons with long fiber
uneven cooling. reinforcement feature enhanced surface aesthetics that are virtually free
of visible fiber to aid in improving consumers’ quality perceptions of
About Avient molded articles. For more information, visit www.avient.com
Avient Corporation (NYSE: AVNT), with able goods through high-performance materials that require less plastic
expected 2021 revenues of $4.3 bil-
lion, provides specialized and sustain- - Light-weighting solutions that replace heavier traditional materials like metal,
able material solutions that transform glass and wood, which can improve fuel efficiency in all modes of transporta-
customer challenges into opportunities, tion
bringing new products to life for a bet- - Breakthrough technologies that minimize wastewater and improve the
ter world. Examples include: recyclability of materials and packaging across a spectrum of end uses
- Barrier technologies that preserve Avient employs approximately 8,400 associates and is certified ACC Respon-
the shelf-life and quality of food, bev- sible Care®, a founding member of the Alliance to End Plastic Waste and cer-
erages, medicine and other perish- tified Great Place to Work®.
Interview With Corinna Fischer The Swiss textile and clothing compa- creased many times over on the main
Contd. from Page 70 nies are currently complaining about routes. We have reacted and adjusted the
Due to the lockdown in India, we are now the massive increases in raw material product prices selectively. We tend not to
confronted with the situation that shipping prices and transport costs. How are see any short-term relaxation in price
containers are only being processed at your prices and what are the reasons? developments.
the Indian ports with delays. Overall, the
For several weeks now, we have been What are your expectations for busi-
logistical chain to the customer is cur-
confronted with price increases by our ness development in early summer?
rently difficult to control. We do not expect
upstream suppliers and service provid-
the situation in India to calm down in the
ers on a daily basis, caused by the short- We expect a backlog in the textile sector:
short term.
age of raw materials, the low availability As soon as all retailers in European coun-
They produce textile chemicals for vari- of intermediate products and the logisti- tries are allowed to sell again without re-
ous applications such as dyes for cloth- cal interruption of supply chains. Due to strictions, as soon as people are allowed
ing or chemicals for coatings. Are there the slump in demand, some upstream to travel again for tourist purposes and
any differences in how the individual tex- suppliers significantly reduced their pro- as soon as events are allowed to take
tile branches are currently developing? duction capacities last year. Now the de- place again, textile products will be sold
Already last year, but also during the past mand is increasing much faster than ex- again. The demand from our customers
few months, we noticed that all textile pected and the necessary production ca- will improve accordingly and conse-
auxiliaries that can be used for coatings pacities are not ready. At the same time, quently also from Textilcolor. Whether this
are subject to significantly increased de- global logistics, particularly in the case of will be the case in early summer, how-
mand. The areas of application are differ- sea freight, has "gotten out of hand". Con- ever, depends on the timing of the easing
ent: starting with fabrics for mouth and tainer ships arrive at the ports with long measures and the progress made in vac-
nose protection to textiles for work and delays and are processed with a delay. cination in the European countries. It is
protective clothing. Sea freight rates have therefore in- currently very difficult to make a forecast.
NCM-JULY 2021
74
NEWS BRIEFS
Texprocil Awards func-
tion for 2019-20 held
on June 18, 2021, on
digital platform
Texprocil chairman Shri Manoj Pato-
dia summarises the recent events:
It was indeed a matter of great plea-
sure for me to welcome all our guests
to the prestigious Texprocil Awards
announcement regarding the rates
function for 2019-20 on June 18, 2021,
under the Remission of Duties and
held on a digital platform for the first
Taxes on Export Products (RoDTEP)
time in the history of the Council.
Scheme. I have urged the Hon’ble
Hon’ble Minister of Textiles & Women
Textile Minister to personally intervene
and Child Development, Smt. Smriti
in the matter, so that the RoDTEP
Zubin Irani graced the occasion as the
Rates are notified at the earliest.
Chief Guest. Shri Upendra Prasad
Singh, Secretary Textiles presided I have also requested the Hon’ble
over the function and Smt Roop Minister to review the total levy includ-
Rashi, Textile Commissioner was the ing customs duty amounting to 11%
Guest of Honour. on import of raw cotton imposed in
the Union Budget for 2021-22. We
I take this opportunity to congratulate
drew the attention of the Ministry to-
all the Award Winners who have
Texprocil chairman Shri Manoj Pa- wards the fact that the varieties of
emerged leaders in their respective
todia Extra Long Staple cotton being im-
line of businesses during a very chal-
ported at present are not being pro-
lenging year. Despite many challeng- dustry valued at Rs. 7000 Crore (al-
duced in commercial quantities in In-
es affecting global supply chains as most One Billion USD). The coordi-
dia. While the efforts to produce these
well as the subsequent demand, it is nated efforts on part of the Govern-
varieties in India are in full swing, it
noteworthy that our Award winners did ment and the industry under the in-
will take some time for it to reach a
not deter from marching ahead and spiring leadership of our Hon’ble Min-
level of self-sufficiency. Hence we
sustained their businesses through ister Smt. Smriti Zubin Iranji, resulted
request for removing the levy on cot-
that tough period. in India becoming the second largest
ton totally.
PPE manufacturer in the world in a
Friends, in the welcome speech de-
short span of 90 days. The welcome speech was followed by
livered by me at the award function, I
briefly touched upon the prevailing On the policy issues, I drew attention distribution of the coveted TEXPRO-
global conditions especially affecting to some important pending issues CIL Export Awards for the excellence
the exports of textiles & clothing dur- that remain unresolved. I thanked the in exports achieved during the year
ing the F.Y. 2019-20. We highlighted Hon’ble Minister and the Ministry offi- 2019-2020. I must thank all the Award
some of the recent global develop- cials present at the event for doing all winning companies for complying in
ments including trade conflict between things necessary for supporting the a timely manner with the requirements
the US and China; the EU’s negotia- industry. As regards the value added of online events that immensely
tion on a peaceful Brexit, and rapid segments of garments and madeups, helped to add a lot of splendour to the
strides made by countries like Bang- we thanked the Government for im- on-line celebrations.
ladesh and Vietnam. plementing the ROSL scheme (cov-
I am pleased to share that, for the
ering State Levies) and modifying it
Despite the uncertainties that pre- year 2019-20, the Council presented
later into the ROSCTL scheme (cov-
vailed across world markets, the In- 58 Awards in 34 different categories
ering both State and Central Levies).
dian companies took good advantage and out of the 44 companies receiv-
and overcame the situation by devel- However, in the face of stiff interna- ing the award, 5 companies received
oping new products like PPE Suits / tional competition, I also pointed to the prestigious Award for the first time.
Coveralls / N-95 masks. The dynam- the huge uncertainty faced by the Also the Council’s decision to insti-
ic efforts of the entrepreneurs result- exporters in quoting prices to their tute Awards for Highest Employment
ed in the development of a new in- overseas buyers in the absence of any generation, three years ago of wom-
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75
NEWS BRIEFS
Texprocil Awards function for 2019-20 was held on June 18, 2021. Texprocil held the event on a digital
platform for the first time in the history of the Council.
en workers, by MSMEs and in overall Friends, as we are living in COVID appeal to each one of you to join the
terms drew an enthusiastic response times, with the second wave slowly efforts to ‘Vaccinate All’ and send in
from our members and a special word abating amidst warning of an impend- the information to the Council (in the
of praise from the Hon’ble Textile Min- ing ‘third wave’, the only option for all prescribed format) for further consol-
ister. of us is to ‘stay safe’ and lead normal idation and reporting to the Ministry.
lives is to ensure that the entire com-
Friends, despite being the first time munity gets vaccinated on a war foot- Friends, in conclusion, I must share
ever that the event was held online, ing. that it has been a great pleasure and
the Export Award function attracted a novel experience in organising the
a large number of online participants The Government has also intensified online export award function. TEX-
and was able to maintain the grandeur its efforts in this direction and the PROCIL Export Awards appropriate-
that it offered through the in-person Hon’ble Minister of Textiles & Women ly reflect the endless hours that our
ceremonies held in the past. This and Child Development, Smt. Smriti Member companies have spent ne-
would have not been possible without Zubin Irani also made a special ap- gotiating contracts and booking orders
the generosity of our Advertisers and peal in her speech at the Council’s in these trying times, thereby bring-
Sponsoring companies who stood by Award Function. ing glory to the entire nation.
the Council in organising the online
event. I personally thank each of our Taking the message forward, the On behalf of TEAM TEXPROCIL and
advertisement partners and sponsor- Council has commenced a drive – the Council’s Committee of Adminis-
ing companies and would request ‘Don’t hesitate – Vaccinate’ and has tration, I wish all the members of Coun-
them to continue supporting the commenced collecting information cil - unlimited success in the future!
Council’s endeavours in future. from the members in this regard. I
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Looking Beyond the

Covid-19 Blues
Sunil Patwari
Vice Chairman Texprocil
Introduction
Did anyone ever think that one day, a
situation like the Coronavirus pan-
demic would engulf the world and
change things to such an extent that
it would impact our daily life as well?
Everything during the pandemic has
changed – the way we work, staying
at home, attending virtual meetings
and events.
The COVID-19 pandemic is an un-

precedented public health crisis cre-
ating ripples on the global economy.
Despite this contraction, the textile
and apparel industry can create a spe-
cial opportunity during the pandemic
as this labour-intensive sector em-
ploys millions and is a key engine for
growth and employment in the times
to come.
The textile sector with its complex

supply chain from 'Farm to Fashion'
involves a diverse range of business
cycles and transactions. Thus, Fibres
and Yarns are dealt with over a shorter
term, while Fabrics, Home textiles and CONGRATULTIONS TO ALL
Garments are negotiated over rela- THE AWARD WINNERS
tively long term contracts.
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77
NEWS BRIEFS
changed frequently. It is probably un- Relationships - Ensuring balance in
likely that consumers will continue to supplier relationships even when they
spend more on their homes once nor- are not in a position to help factories
malcy returns or until they exhaust in ramping up production and ensur-
their spending power. Therefore, only ing order fulfilment is part of good strat-
the businesses that endure to beat the egy. Cultivating new sources of sup-
current challenges tactically will con- ply and avoiding over-reliance on any
tinue to prosper. one vendor also helps in reducing risk
in difficult times.
Scarcity of Product & People
Time - Sales and follow-up meetings,
The two biggest challenges facing
inspection and check-up schedules,
factories right now are shortages in
done with advance planning and with
product (raw material inputs) and
allocation of fewer people can help to
people. Product shortages have re-
optimise time and save money. Effec-
sulted from factory shutdowns, un-
tive deployment of E- platforms also
availability of factory workers and
pays dividends.
Sunil Patwari supply chain disruptions. Worker mi-
Vice Chairman Texprocil gration and workplace closures re- Turning the crisis into opportuni-
duced the employee numbers to new ties
Each segment also serves as a raw lows thus making it a major challenge
The Indian textile industry converted
material for the next one till the fin- to find and develop quality people. The
the dampening effects of the pandemic
ished goods (cut and sew stage), situation worsened as fear of contract-
into a golden opportunity by getting
while simultaneously consuming coming COVID-19, increased unemploy-
into the manufacture of PPE suits and
mon resources such as energy, time ment benefits and lowered wages
N95 masks. In just 90 days India be-
and labour in the production cycle. along with the added pressure of multi-
came the second largest manufacturer
tasking have made workers scarce.
The present pandemic times have of PPE suits and masks in the world
seen each of the segments tackle a Being Resource Cautious giving clear evidence of how the In-
common set of challenges along with Given this context, it is imperative for dian entrepreneurs can develop com-
few segment-specific crucial issues. entrepreneurs to ensure resource op- petencies to manufacture new prod-
But, despite all these challenges, timization through diligent planning. ucts even in challenging times.
there is a silver lining as well – many Some of the strategic imperatives that The post-COVID-19 era has also pro-
entrepreneurs, sectors, and industries come to mind and can be followed vided a big opportunity for the online
have turned the coronavirus crisis into with regard to a select few vital re- textile industry. The sales in the online
an opportunity. sources are discussed below. textile industry witnessed a jump in
Demand Supply situation Inventory Control – With erratic sup- various cities of India even though
plies the time has come to replenish many of them were in a partial or com-
With more time spent at home than
only when a need arises. Overstock- plete lockdown mode.
ever before, a demand spike emerged
for products and services related to ing where demand is unpredictable will During the lockdown, shopping was
work from home (WFH). Across tex- only give rise to distress sales later. still done through the online route and
tile segments, categories like comfort Finance - Cash crunch is prompting most of the customers were happy
clothing and home furnishing items all of us to buy the right product with- with the online experience. The
seem to have benefited. out over-investing in any new prod- lockdown failed to leave any negative
uct. Greater lead times may cause impact on the online textile industry
WFH also helped the home textiles
higher inventory levels, therefore, because of its operations in the vir-
segment receive a greater share of
equating cash situation and warehouse tual space, leaving no room for hu-
attention as consumers were con-
capacity in proportion to sales volume man or physical contact. The online
cerned about health creating a rapid
has become a necessity. textile industry even registered an in-
demand for wellness and hygiene re-
crease in sales as there was no de-
lated products. The pandemic also Margin realisation - Price, especially
pendency on middle tier segments like
changed the outlook on longevity and in times of product scarcity, is not a
the wholesaler, dealer, retailer etc.
durability of such products especially significant factor with respect to con-
in the institutional and hospitality sec- sumer purchasing decisions. Effective Online shoppers have already tasted
tors, thereby increasing demand for product pricing can be offered with a the convenience, trust, and comfort
items like towels, bed sheets and pil- view to optimizing costs and reduc- of shopping on the internet, and will
low covers etc. which needed to be ing inventory. continue to enjoy and avail benefits
NCM-JULY 2021
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NEWS BRIEFS
in future as well. E-tailers will emerge well as joint projects with Universities and Centres of Excellence, can
as the biggest winners in this entire strengthen knowledge exchange and drive innovation in the textile and ap-
success journey of the online textile parel industry. Partnerships with brands and knitting houses or weaving mills
industry. can also foster more vertical integration for companies.
From choosing items to trying them These collaborations can unlock higher value-adds within countries and pro-
and even the flexible return policies vide a strong return on investment.
creates a win-win situation for shop-
pers on the internet as customers feel AWARD WINNERS SPEAK
comfortable purchasing their stuff Winner of Platinum Trophy for the
online. Highest Global Exports
Online retailers to be the next Uni- Ms. Dipali Goenka
corns CEO & MD
Due to such an upward trend being Welspun Global Brands Ltd.
witnessed in the online textile indus- "Thank you… We are proud to be rec-
try, retailers with a presence on the ognized for the highest global exports
internet have a big possibility to be- and on behalf of entire Welspun team,
come unicorns (a company with a those 20000 people at Welspun. I am
value of over $1 billion) of the New honored to receive this platinum trophy
Age India. Businesses in the online for the highest global exports in the
retail industry witnessed a spike in august presence of Smritiji, Honourable
their revenue sheets and therefore the Union Minister of Textiles and Women
online textile industry has all the valid & Child Development. I just want to say
reasons to give birth to new Unicorns a few things. Many of the short-term changes brought about by the Covid
in India. crisis will ultimately become long-term adjustments to the fundamental parts
Looking Beyond of society and economy. Consumer behaviours are settling into new normal
as people globally are learning to live with Covid 19 as a company who's been
There appear to be many ways in at the forefront of innovations in textiles. We have been working on digital
which businesses can beat the "pan- transformation initiatives even before Covid struck and the pandemic has
demic blues" with adequate caution only accelerated the transformation initiatives with even greater emphasis on
by also considering how one can en- scale and speed. Fundamentally the focus has been on collaboration, part-
sure optimal performance using fewer nerships, digitization and care our employees, health of our employees across
resources. our value chain. This integrated approach has helped us to stay ahead of the
Countries need to act swiftly and stra- challenges and emerge stronger. Thank you for this recognition and we'll con-
tegically to restart and restructure tinue to do so. Thank You!"
their economies and not doing so Winner of Gold Trophy for the High-
could widen existing gaps in technol- est Global Exports
ogy and productivity. Meanwhile, the
Indian textile industry can charter its Mr. Rajinder Gupta
own course in the right direction, pro- Chairman, Trident Group
vided the sector also gets robust sup- Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles and
port from the government in terms of Women & Child Development, it's a
policies and incentives. great honour to be recipient of this
award on behalf of the entire Trident
There are options available for the
family Thank you… Texprocil and I'm
taking by making tactical changes
sure this inspiration is going to help us
including strengthening and broaden-
to do better and really bring more em-
ing processing capabilities, bridging
ployment to the industry especially to
the infrastructure gap, developing sus-
the women and unskilled or semi-skilled
tainable textiles and strengthening the
urban employment, ruler employment to the nation and I'm sure in times to
external image of the country as a
come we do much better for the woman and semi-skilled ruler employment of
sourcing choice for the textiles and
the country. Thank you very much for being recognized and thank you very
apparel industry.
much for a very inspiring Union Minister who always inspires everywhere and
Collaboration with industry associa- I'm sure under her leadership the textile industry will do much better in times
tions (within and across countries), as to come and they will be the global leaders ahead of any other country.
NCM-JULY 2021
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NEWS BRIEFS
Winner of Silver Trophy mier Mills we continue to
for the Highest Global remain committed to in-
Exports crease of cotton textile
Special Achievements: exports and to promote
sustainability in a reason-
1. Gold Trophy for the able manner and respon-
Highest Employment sible manner. The
Generation (Overall) honourable Minister has
2. Gold Trophy for the been a source of inspira-
Highest Women Em- tion and has helped the
ployment Generation industry over several
years and which has
Mr. Neeraj Jain helped to maintain India's
Joint MD & Business Head - Yarns competitiveness in the
Vardhman Textiles Ltd. global market. We look forward to her continued support
We are honoured to receive this award from TEXPROCIL in the current challenging circumstances. Thank you!
in the august presence of Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble
Gold Trophy for the Special Achievement in Cotton
Union Minister of Textiles and Women & Child Develop-
Yarn
ment, Government of India and are fully committed to
increasing cotton textile exports from India. Gold Trophy for the
highest export perfor-
Gold Trophy for the mance in Cotton Yarn -
Highest Employment Processed Yarns under
Generation in MSMEs Category III
Silver Plaque for the Mr. Updeep Singh
second highest export President & CEO
performance in Cotton Sutlej Textiles and Indus-
Fabrics - Grey Fabrics tries Ltd.
under Category I
Hon’ble Union Minister Smt. Smriti Iraniji and Secretary
Mr. Nikunj Bagadia
Textiles and Chairman TEXPROCIL and distinguish
Managing Director
guests. We at Sutlej take pride and are honoured and
KEN Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.
humbled to receive this prestigious special achievement
Thank you so much. We are honoured to receive this award award and gold trophy for processed yarns in the pres-
from TEXPROCIL in the august presence of Smt. Smritiji, ence of honourable Union Minister.
the honourable Union Minister of Textiles and Women &
I dedicate this award to my fellow Sutlejites especially
Child Development, Government of India. Madam I repre-
those whose foot on ground at the manufacturing plants
sent the city of Ichalkaranji, the heart of weaving industry
and our supply chain partners and above all entire stake-
in India. Our city fondly remembers your visit to Ichalkaranji
holder community of Sutlej and we are committed to in-
in the year 2019 and the support you have always ex-
crease our cotton textile exports from India to bring lau-
tended to us. We are in our own small way contributing
rels to the country in the recalibrated global business en-
and committed to increasing the share of India's export.
vironment. Thank you very much!
We are consistently increasing the exports as well as
increasing the employment in our region and bringing world- Gold Trophy for the
class practices to this Ichalkaranji hub... Thank you so highest export perfor-
much Madam... we are honoured. mance in Cotton Yarn -
Counts 50s & below
Gold Trophy for the highest export performance in under Category II
Cotton Yarn - Counts 51s & above under Category II
Mr. Ujwal Lahoti
Dr. KV Srinivasan Chairman
Managing Director Lahoti Overseas Ltd.
Premier Mills Pvt. Ltd.
Thank you so much..
Good evening Chairman. I am honoured to receive the
Thank you for this award.
award from TEXPROCIL in the presence of the Secretary
Textiles Mr Singh and the Textile Commissioner. At Pre- Contd. on page 82
NCM-JULY 2021
80
NEWS BRIEFS
Ambala Division of
Northern Railway
starts Special Parcel
trains to Bangladesh
for Exporters
Ambala Division with the collaboration
with MGH Group for the first time load-
ed a Special Parcel train beyond the
country borders to Benapole in Bang-
ladesh with Cotton Yarn from Ambala
Cantt station.
Ambala Division of Northern Railway The first train, consisting of 20 Parcel Vans (VPUs) was flagged off by Sr
along with mgX.com, a subsidiary of DCM, Shri Vivek Sharma in presence of Dr. Ritika Vashisht, DCM-I Ambala,
MGH Group, a Singapore Head quar- Dr. Kanishka, DCM-II Ambala with other Senior staff of Ambala Division
tered conglomerate, began the first of and Shri Himanshu Pant, Director & CEO of MGH India. For the first time
its kind VPU rail movement from Am- railways loaded a special parcel train full of raw materials like yarn,
bala Cantt to Benapole, Bangladesh. fabric and other items from Ludhiana’s textile and garment exporting
This train, consisting of *20* VPUs companies directly by train to Bangladesh saving time and money.
was flagged off by Sr DCM, Shri Vivek
Sharma in presence of Dr. Ritika Vash-
isht, DCM-I Ambala, Dr. Kanishka,
DCM-II Ambala with other Senior staff
of Ambala Division and Shri Himan-
shu Pant, Director & CEO of MGH
India.
*Sr DCM, Shri Vivek Sharma* apprised

that earlier, the merchants in and
around Punjab & Haryana area have
been transporting these commodities
by road to Bangladesh in small quan-
tities and that was costing too much
for them. During the lockdown period,
they could not move this commodity
by Road. Then Railway staff and Offi-
cials approached the consignors and
explained the facilities to transport by
Rail. Accordingly, they have moved
the Cotton Yarn by Rail in bulk through
goods trains. But for moving the con-
signment by Goods trains, it is man-
datory for the farmers and merchants
to mobilise the quantity in bulk.
To mitigate this problem and to facili-

tate the Rail users to move their quan-
tities in smalls i.e., up to a maximum
of 500 tonnes in each trip, Ambala
Division of Northern Railway took the
initiative and moved the Special Par-
cel train to Bangladesh. This has
helped the merchants to market their
NCM-JULY 2021
81
NEWS BRIEFS
Now Railway has Parcel Vans
Service from Ambala Cantt
station to Benapole in
Bangladesh for Exporters
products beyond the country border
by transporting the Cotton Yarn in
small quantities through Special Par-
cel train. Accordingly, one Special
Parcel train consisting of 20 Parcel
Van moved to Benapole in Bang-
ladesh. Each VPU was loaded with
430 Ctn, weighing around 23 Tonnes
and the total weight carried by the
Special Parcel Express is around 468
Tonnes. The cost per tonne for carry- For the first time railways loaded a special parcel train full of cotton yarn
ing by Special Parcel train is Rs. Rs. beyond the country borders
5,491 and which is very cheap and
economical as compared to Road end to end transportation solution to its customers, exporting yarn, Fabrics &
transport which is much higher. This FMCG goods from their respective factories across Ludhiana and Baddi to
will be the first of its like traffic from their buyers’ factories in Bangladesh including the customs clearance on both
Northern Railway catering the yarn the sides of Border. These customers include Aarti International, Cedaar Tex-
industry of Northern India & earned tiles, Garg Acrylic, Nahar Spinning & Vardhman Textiles.
the freight of *Rs. 25,69,630* . It may be noted that Indian Railways has taken a series of steps to boost
For this train MGH will be providing parcel train traffic during the Covid period.
Contd. from page 80 Gold Trophy for the

AWARD WINNERS SPEAK
mance in Cotton Fab-
I appreciate the efforts by Texprocil and the Ministry of rics - Grey Fabrics un-
Textiles. We are always thankful to Madam Minister and der Category III
all her team for supporting the textile industry and we just Mr. KL Palaniappan
thank you once again. Thank you! President (Marketing)
Loyal Textile Mills Ltd.
Gold Trophy for the Spe-
cial Achievement in Loyal Textile is getting this
Cotton Fabrics awards for the last 14 years and above.
We are very much thankful to Texprocil and Honorable
Mr. K Hari Thiagrajan
Minister of Textiles.
Director, VTM Ltd.
Thank You !
On behalf of VTM we are
honoured to receive this Gold Trophy for the
award from TEXPROCIL highest export perfor-
in the august presence of mance in Cotton Fab-
Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani rics - Denim Fabrics
honourable Union Minis- under Category II
ter for Textiles. We remain fully committed increasing cot-
ton textile exports from our country in the coming years Mr. Bhavik Singhal
by continuously modernizing our facilities and manufac- Export Manager
turing high quality products with the best value to our Bhavik Terryfab
customers. We will continuously build our export com-
petitiveness by making in india for the world. We are honoured to receive this award from TEXPROCIL
in the august presence of Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble
Thank you! Union Minister of Textiles and Women & Child Develop-
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NEWS BRIEFS
"Problems worthy of attack prove their worth by hitting back" - Anon
NCM-JULY 2021
83
NEWS BRIEFS
ment, Government of India and remain fully committed to
increasing cotton textile exports from our country in the
coming years. Thank you!
Gold Trophy for the high-

est export performance
in Cotton Madeups -
Other Cotton Madeups
under Category II
Mr. M Nachimuthu
Managing Partner
Atlas Export
Enterprises
Thank you for this award.
We are happy and honoured to receive this award from
Texprocil in the august presence of honourable Union Min-
ister of Textiles and Women & Child Development, Gov-
ernment of India and this will encourage cotton textile
exporters like us to increase the exports from our country
in the coming years. Thank you!
Gold Trophy for the
mance in Cotton A delegation from Kitex Group, headed by Sri Sabu M
Madeups - Terry Towels Jacob, Chairman & MD, met Minister Sri KT Rama Rao
under Category II in Hyderabad. During the meeting, Minister KTR gave
an overview of the progressive industrial policies of
Mrs. Pallavi Laddha
Telangana state & availability of required resources
Director
for textiles sector.
Manomay Tex India Ltd.
We at, Manomay Tex In-
dia Ltd., are delightly
honoured by receiving
this awards third year in
a row from Texprocil in the presence of honourable Textile
Minister Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani. We are thankful to Texprocil
that they give these awards and promote exports in our
country. We are committed towards expanding our exports
in denim from our country. Thank you so much!
Sabu Jacob, chairman of Kitex group,

migrates his Rs 3,500 cr investment
plan in Kerela to Telangana
Kitex Garments Ltd had signed the project during the "As-
cend Global Investors Meet" organised by the Kerela gov-
ernment in January 2020.
Jacob said the atmosphere in Kerala was not conducive
for launching business. "I'm not going on my own. I'm
being hounded out, I am being kicked out.," Jacob told
reporters at the Kochi international airport before heading
for Hyderabad for holding talks with the Telangana gov-
ernment over his investment plans.
NCM-JULY 2021
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Jacob had alleged that various units of Kitex were raided

10 times by officials from various departments during the
past one month. states telephoned me. Industrialists also called me. Now
Jacob claimed that not a single Kerala minister telephoned a private jet has been sent for us", Jacob said and called
him to enquire about the reasons for his group's withdrawal for a change in the approach of the Kerala government
from investing in the state. "But chief ministers of nine towards industries.
NCM-JULY 2021
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Union Minister Shri
Piyush Goyal Takes
Charge of Ministry Of
Textiles
Minister of State for Textiles Smt.
Darshana Vikram Jardosh also
Takes Charge
08-July, 2021: Union Minister of Com-
merce & Industry, Consumer Affairs
and Food & Public Distribution, Shri
Piyush Goyal today took charge of the
Ministry of Textiles from the Union
Minister of Women and Child Devel-
opment, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani. The
Minister of State for Textiles, Smt.
Darshana Vikram Jardosh also took
charge, today.
Addressing the media after taking
charge, Shri Piyush Goyal thanked
Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi for
giving him this opportunity. Shri Goy-
al, praising his predecessor, Smt
Smriti Irani said that she has done
lots of good work in the Ministry of
Textiles during her tenure and as a
result, its profile has increased mani-
fold in recent years. The Minister said
that Prime Minister Narendra Modi
wants this sector to be strong and
become an even bigger support for
the economy. He further added that
the Prime Minister envisions a syner-
gy between Commerce and Industry
and Textiles sectors and that is per- Shri Piyush Goyal thanked Prime Minister Shri Narendra
haps the reason that he has been giv- Modi for giving him this opportunity. Piyush Goyal said
en the charge of this ministry also. that Prime Minister Narendra Modi wants the textile sec-
Shri Goyal said that Textiles is a big tor to be strong and become an even bigger support for
sector for employment so this is a big the economy. He further added that the Prime Minister en-
opportunity that through this sector, visions a synergy between Commerce and Industry and
the Government will try to give a big
support to the income of all the peo-
Textiles sectors and that is perhaps the reason that he
ple employed in this sector, especial- has been given the charge of this ministry also.
ly women. He also said that he will
ensure that this sector can be further earlier played an important role in building brand India, will again play a key
improved and exports can be boost- role. The Minister also welcomed the MoS, Smt. Darshana Vikram Jardosh
ed. The Minister expressed confi- and said that she will be a support pillar and help in the growth of this sector.
dence that there will be a big growth
The MoS, Smt. Darshana Vikram Jardosh talking to the media said that Prime
in this sector.
Minister Shri Narendra Modi has given her this big opportunity and she will
Shri Goyal further added that the Gov- work under the leadership of PM and guidance of Cabinet Minister Shri Piy-
ernment wants to promote Brand In- ush Goyal to help grow and promote the textiles sector and make it a key
dia and Indian textiles, which have sector for ‘Make in India’
NCM-JULY 2021
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www.newclothmarketonline.com Also
available in Digital Edition
NCM-JULY 2021
87
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KVIC Secures Trade- Since Khadi Trade Mark belongs to KVIC, any
mark Registrations in domain name containing the word 'Khadi' can
Bhutan, UAE & Mexico; be challenged and taken over by KVIC
Files Applications in Examples: khaditourism.com | urbankhadiclub.com | tskhadi.com
40 Countries to Protect The Administrative Panel of World Intellectual Property Organi-
Brand “Khadi” zation (WIPO) - headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland - gave it's
decision in favour of Khadi and Village Industries Commission
10 July 2021 PIB Delhi: Khadi and Vil- (KVIC) in all the three cases.
lage Industries Commission (KVIC)
has recently secured trademark reg- After extensive examination, the Panel (separate for each domain) appointed
istrations in three countries – Bhutan, by WIPO Arbitration and Mediation Center ordered that the disputed domain
UAE and Mexico – a big stride towards names be transferred to the Complainant (KVIC).
protecting the identity of brand “Khadi” It is interesting to have a look at the factors and historical background infor-
globally. Apart from these countries, mation considered by the WIPO Panel members in making their decisions in
KVIC’s trademark applications are favour of KVIC. These are described below:
pending in 40 countries across the
world that include the USA, Qatar, Sri Factual Background
Lanka, Japan, Italy, Australia, New The Complainant (KVIC) is a statutory body constituted in April 1957 by the
Zealand, Singapore, Brazil and oth- Government of India, in terms of and in accordance with an Act passed by
ers. the Indian Parliament viz. Khadi and Village Industries Commission Act of
While KVIC obtained the latest trade- 1956 (“the 1956 Act”). It is engaged in the promotion and development of the
mark registration in Bhutan on 9th KHADI products with the brand KHADI. These activities are carried out by the
July; trademark registration was Complainant in relation to KHADI products under the KHADI trademark through
granted in UAE on 28th June. With the institutions certified by the Complainant. The Complainant has adopted
this, KVIC has succeeded in secur- the trademark KHADI (which forms a part of its tradename, corporate name
ing trademark registration for the first and trading style) since September 25, 1956 and the same has been in use
time in a Gulf country. Earlier, KVIC continuously until date. The Complainant owns several registrations in differ-
got the trademark registration for ent jurisdictions for the mark KHADI, including International Registration No.
“Khadi” in Mexico in December 2020. 1272626 registered on December 2, 2014, and Indian Registration No. 2851524
registered on November 27, 2014, with a first use date of September 25,
So far KVIC was having Trademark 1956. The KHADI trademarks are also registered in various other jurisdic-
registrations for the word mark tions/regions and are owned by the Complainant.
“KHADI” in 6 countries namely Ger-
many, UK, Australia, Russia, China The Complainant (KVIC) has, inter-alia, raised the following contentions:
and EU where trademark registrations The Complainant is stated to have been established under the Ministry of
were granted in certain classes. How- Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (“MSME”), Government of India with
ever, with recent trademark registra- objectives to provide employment in rural areas, producing saleable articles
tions in Bhutan, UAE and Mexico, the and creating self-reliance amongst people. It has been contended that the
number of such countries has gone Complainant, in April 1957, had taken over the work of former All India Khadi
up to nine. In these countries, KVIC and Village Industries Board. The Complainant plays an important role in In-
has got registrations in various dian economy with generation of employment in about 2.48 lakh villages in
classes that pertain to Khadi fabric, India. Its head office is in Mumbai, and its six zonal offices are in Delhi,
Khadi readymade garments and vil- Bhopal, Bangalore, Kolkata, Mumbai and Guwahati. Besides and in addition
lage industry products like Khadi to its zonal offices, it has offices in 28 states in India for the implementation
soaps, Khadi cosmetics, Khadi in- of its various programmes. The Complainant owns numerous registrations
cense sticks among others. and applications for the word mark KHADI and device marks. The Complain-
ant has annexed a list of few of the registered KHADI trademarks in India
It is for the first time in the history of
along with copies of the registration certificates.
KVIC that sustained efforts have
been made in the last 5 years to pro- The Complainant is engaged in the promotion and development of the KHADI
tect the brand “Khadi” which was given brand and the products under the KHADI trademark through the institutions
to us by none other than Mahatma certified by the Complainant. The Complainant adopted the trademark KHADI
Gandhi. (which forms a part of its tradename, corporate name and trading style) on
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September 25, 1956, and the same various events, competition and certain extremely relevant facts,
has been in use continuously until shows. available in the public domain, in re-
date. It is the case of the Complain- lation to the mark KHADI. This mark
The Complainant states that for the
ant that by virtue of its adoption of in the Indian context and the freedom
purposes of promotion of the KHADI
KHADI mark, more than 60 years ago, movement in India refers to hand-
trademarks, the Complainant has
and extensive use thereof, the trade- spun and hand-woven cloth.
been undertaking various initiatives
mark KHADI has become exclusively
including collaboration with the 14th The common characteristic found in
and globally associated with the Com-
edition of the Lakme Fashion Week, both Khadi and Village Industries is
plainant in the eyes of consumers.
in which collections were made by 4 that they are labour intensive in na-
The Complainant being the owner of designer labels under the trademark ture. In the wake of industrialisation,
the mark KHADI has contended that KHADI and the same were exhibited and the mechanisation of almost all
it authorizes various retail sellers, or- during a designated Sustainable Fash- processes, Khadi and Village Indus-
ganizations, societies and institutions ion Day at Lakme Fashion Week on tries are suited like no other to a labour
to sell products under the KHADI August 23, 2018. Further, the Com- surplus country like India.
trademarks. In order to be listed as plainant has also partnered with
Another advantage of Khadi and Vil-
an authorized user of the KHADI trade- brands such as RAYMOND and TI-
lage Industries is that they require little
marks for purpose of sales and pro- TAN to promote the products under
or no capital to set up, thereby mak-
motions of KHADI certified products the trademark KHADI in the Indian and
ing them an economically viable op-
and services, each organization has global markets.
tion for the rural poor. This is an im-
to apply for recognition through the The Complainant has contended that portant point with reference to India
Khadi Institutions Registration & Cer- its products under the KHADI trade- in view of its stark income, regional
tification Sewa (KIRCS). marks have been widely promoted and rural/urban inequalities.
It is contended by the Complainant through print and electronic media,
The Complainant, under the statutory
that there are about seven sales out- including television programs, adver-
scheme of the above-mentioned 1956
lets directly owned by the Complain- tisements, articles, write-ups appear-
Act has three main objectives, which
ant out of 8,050 sales outlets spread ing in leading newspapers, maga-
guide its functioning. These are:
across the country all selling autho- zines, journals, shopping festivals,
rized/ licensed products under the exhibitions. In addition, the Complain- The Social Objective – Providing
KHADI trademarks. The KHADI trade- ant also claims to operate several employment in rural areas;
marks are prominently featured on social media platforms, such as The Economic Objective – Provid-
boards and hoardings of each store Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, etc. all of ing saleable articles;
that is authorized to sell products un- which enjoy a wide followership. The
Complainant also operates a mobile The Wider Objective – Creating self-
der the KHADI trademarks. The Com- reliance amongst people and building
plainant further contends that the application by the name of “Khadi In-
dia” to help customers, patrons and up a strong rural community spirit.
Complainant’s KHADI trademarks are
prominently featured on all the prod- members of trade in locating the near- The Complainant seeks to achieve
ucts sold by the Complainant in India est Khadi India Store. these objectives by implementing and
and beyond. The Complainant contends that years monitoring various schemes and pro-
of continuous efforts, time, capital, grams.
The Complainant contends that the
painstaking efforts and resources The process of implementation of
Complainant’s products bearing the
have been invested pursuant to which schemes and programs starts at the
KHADI trademarks are sold and show-
the KHADI trademarks have attained Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium
cased through exhibitions in various
immeasurable goodwill and reputation Enterprises in the Government of In-
parts of the world. The Complainant
so much so that the KHADI trade- dia, is the administrative head of the
participates in several exhibitions and
marks have attained paramount posi- programs. The Ministry receives funds
fairs to promote products and services
tion and are identified exclusively with from the Central Government of In-
under the KHADI trademarks and to
the Complainant and members of dia, and routes these to the Complain-
encourage artisans, spinners and
trade now recognize and associate the ant for the implementation of programs
weavers of India. Further, the Com-
goods and services under the KHADI and schemes related to Khadi and
plainant contends that it has always
trademarks with the Complainant and Village Industries.
remained actively involved in the com-
none other.
munity service in its efforts to further The Complainant herein then uses
promote its products and services Rights or Legitimate Interests these funds to implement its programs
under the KHADI trademarks includ- either directly – through its 29 state
ing sponsorship and organization of The Panel is obliged to take notice of offices (not 28 as contended in the
NCM-JULY 2021
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Complainant), by directly funding Khadi and Village insti-

tutions and co-operatives, or indirectly through 33 Khadi
and Village Industries Boards, which are statutory bodies
formed by the state governments within India, set up for
the purpose of promoting Khadi and Village Industries in
their respective states. The Khadi and Village Industries
Boards, in turn, fund Khadi and Village Institutions/Co-op-
eratives/Entrepreneurs.
It is also a matter of public knowledge in India that at
present the developmental programmes of the Complain-
ant are executed through 5,600 registered institutions,
30,138 Cooperative societies and about 9,485,000 people.
The entire concept and mark KHADI is extremely critical
for the welfare and upliftment of the villagers in India. The
constitution of the Khadi Development Boards and its func-
tions having been taken over by the Complainant through
the 1956 Act further acknowledges and establishes the
importance of KHADI and the promotion of KHADI prod- by it. The mark KHADI, in the above-mentioned back-
ucts in India. All these activities are directly relatable to ground, indisputably vests in the Complainant as evidenced
the objectives sought to be achieved by the Parliament of by various statutory registrations not only in India but other
India for the benefit of the villagers all over India. jurisdictions as well, secured by the Complainant. There
Having regard to contentions raised in the Complaint, the does not appear to be any doubt that the Complainant is
Panel observes that the Complainant has made out a case the owner of trademark KHADI. For the foregoing reasons,
proving its rights in the trademark KHADI. The Complain- the Panel orders that the disputed domain name be trans-
ant enjoys goodwill and reputation for the marks registered ferred to the Complainant.
NCM-JULY 2021
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35th Year Of Publication. Exporters' First Choice
NEW CLOTH MARKET

NCM-JULY 2021
93
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NCM-JULY 2021
94

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NEW CLOTH MARKET

THE COMPLETE TEXTILE MAGAZINE FROM TEXTILE TECHNOLOGISTS

INDIAN INDUSTRIAL AND MANAGEMENT SERVICES

EDITORIAL BOARD JULY 2021

NEW CLOTH MARKET, JULY 2021 NCM-JULY 2021 3

The Complete Textile Monthly From Textile Technologists Published by

NEW CLOTH MARKET Subscribe Now IIMS

Total 102 Parts

IntegriTEX® is a concealed marking system for the au-

of a marking fibre, as part of a textile finish, hidden in

able table linen.

Right - Mr. Amit Chandak (CEO)/Left - Mr.Himanshu Sharma (Technical Head)

COLARIS Towel Printing Line: Customer Satisfaction Guaranteed

Instruction for Dilution

Levocol JD : 1500 gms

Heat setting on Stenter

Weight Reduction in Softlina (Approx : 18 - 20% or as per requirement)

Hot wash (30 min) Finally

Cold rinse This information is provided in good faith, to the best of

CI Disperse Blue 60 (sublimation degree 4~5)

How to distinguish whether denim is patch-dyed or rope-dyed?

mum exhaustion before rinsing.

FIG. 1. Operation principles of thermal com-

Fiber processing Yarn manufacturing Fabric manufacturing

• Cotton fiber containment • Winding and combing of • Preparation of yarns

Fabric Manufacture Link

Apparel Manufacture Link

• Cutting material • Marketing and deals

1% Big companies 98,000+

Geographical Distribution of Na- Geographical Distribution of Na-

Source: Ministry of Treasury. Source: Ministry of Treasury.

Competitiveness of the put down to the lack of installed ca- Opportunities

Given below are some extracts from

We have been producing in

Proudly Made In Bangladesh by

“Clear case: We are about workwear.

As long as travel remains restricted and there are no trade

Since the low in July, the general busi-

In the first two months of the year there

The pandemic is currently particu-

We are following the situation in India

Concerns about the “future” and long-

But what can manufacturers and busi-

Looking Beyond the

The COVID-19 pandemic is an un-

The textile sector with its complex

*Sr DCM, Shri Vivek Sharma* apprised

To mitigate this problem and to facili-

Contd. from page 80 Gold Trophy for the

"Problems worthy of attack prove their worth by hitting back" - Anon

Gold Trophy for the high-

Sabu Jacob, chairman of Kitex group,

Jacob had alleged that various units of Kitex were raided

Complainant), by directly funding Khadi and Village insti-

35th Year Of Publication. Exporters' First Choice

NEW CLOTH MARKET

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Pfad - The Proxy pFad of © 2024 Garber Painting. All rights reserved.

Sr DCM, Shri Vivek Sharma apprised