CLOTHTECH
CLOTHTECH
CLOTHTECH
Touching our lives in almost all the spheres, technical textiles have also made their
foray in the clothing and shoe industry. Aimed at fashion designers, developers as
well as shoe and clothing manufacturers, this category of smart textiles is clubbed
under the head “CLOTHTECH”
They are recognized for some of their important properties like high resistance to
temperature, pressure and other extreme conditions, high absorbency, durability and
water proof nature.
From industries like sports, defense and aviation to chemical and fire fighting, they
are making their presence almost across all segments as they are extensively used
for making special purpose clothes and footwear.
A look at some of the application areas:
● Various types water proof breathable fabrics used in making apparels,
● Winter clothes,
● Windproof fabrics etc.
● Summer wears capable of managing excess moisture.
● In shoe components like shoe laces
● For insulation and structures like interlinings (woven as well as non woven,
wadding etc)
● Sewing products like sewing threads, labels, fasteners (zips, Velcro)
Waterproof breathable fabrics (WPBF)
Waterproof breathable fabrics are designed for use in garments that provide
protection from the weather, which is in the form of wind, rain and loss of
body heat. Clothing that provides protection from the weather has been used
for thousands of years.
The first material used for this purpose was probably leather but textile
fabrics have also been used for a very long time.
The heat energy produced during various activities and the perspiration
required to provide adequate body temperature control have been
published.2,3 Table 12.1 shows this information for activities ranging from
sleeping to maximum work rate.
During rest, most surplus body heat is lost by conduction and radiation,
whereas during physical activity, the dominant means of losing excess body
heat is by evaporation of perspiration.
It has been found that the length of time the body can endure arduous
work decreases linearly with the decrease in fabric water vapour
permeability. It has also been shown that the maximum performance of
a subject wearing clothing with a vapour barrier is some 60% less than
that of a subject wearing the same clothing but without a vapour
barrier.
Even with two sets of clothing that exhibit a small variation in water vapour
permeability, the differences in the wearer’s performance are significant.
One of the commonest causes of occupational deaths amongst
firefighters is heart failure due to heat stress caused by loss of body
fluid required to produce perspiration.
According to the 1982 US fire death statistics, only 2.6% were due to burns
alone whereas 46.1% were the result of heart attacks. Firefighters can lose
up to 4 litres (4000 g) of fluid per hour when in proximity to a fire.
The cotton is processed into combed yarn, which is then plied. This
improves regularity and ensures that the fibres are as parallel as
possible to the yarn axis, and that there are no large pores where water
can penetrate.
The yarn is woven using an Oxford weave, which is a plain weave with
two threads acting together in the warp.
This gives minimum crimp in the weft, again ensuring that the fibres are as
parallel as possible to the surface of the fabric.
When the fabric surface is wetted by water, the cotton fibres swell
transversely reducing the size of the pores in the fabric and requiring
very high pressure to cause penetration (Fig. 12.2).
The fabric is thus rendered waterproof without the need for any water-
repellent finishing treatment. It was first made for military applications but
the manufacturers are now producing a range of variants to widen the
market appeal.9 The military variants use thread densities as high as 98 per
cm.
The use of very fine fibres and filaments and dense construction (sett)
results in fabrics with very small pore size compared with conventional
fabrics.
Typical pore size for a waterproof fabric is about 10mm compared with
60mm for conventional fabric. Ventile fabric has a pore size of about 10mm
when dry and 3–4mm when wet. Fabric made from microfilaments is
claimed to have up to 7000 filaments per centimetre.
The author has estimated that the military variant of Ventile fabric has
about 6000 fibres per centimetre.
2. Membranes
Membranes are extremely thin films made from polymeric material and
engineered in such a way that they have a very high resistance to liquid
water penetration, yet allow the passage of water vapour.
The first and probably the best known microporous membrane, developed
and introduced in 1976 by W Gore, is known as Gore-Tex.
The poly (ethylene oxide) constitutes the hydrophilic part of the membrane
by forming part of the amorphous regions of the polyurethane polymer
system. It has a low energy affinity for water molecules which is essential
for rapid diffusion of water vapour. These amorphous regions are described
as acting like intermolecular ‘pores’ allowing water vapour molecules to
pass through but preventing the penetration of liquid water owing to the
solid nature of the membrane.
Methods of incorporation
The laminate is attached to the right side of the lining material. The
functional layer is incorporated into the garment as a separate layer
independent of the outer fabric. This method has the advantage that the
fashion aspects can be maximized.
This produces a three-layer system, which gives a less attractive handle and
drape than the other methods and, therefore, is not commonly used.
3. Coatings
The coated fabric then goes through a two-stage drying process. The first
stage employs a low temperature to remove the organic solvent,
precipitating the polyurethane.
The coating is now a mixture of solid polyurethane and water. The second
stage employs a higher temperature to evaporate the water leaving behind
pores in the coating.
Hydrophilic coatings 11 (Fig. 12.11) use the same basic water vapour
permeability mechanism as the hydrophilic membranes. The difference
between microporous materials and hydrophilic materials is that with
the former, water vapour passes through the permanent air-permeable
structure whereas the latter transmit vapour by a molecular mechanism
involving adsorption–diffusion and desorption.
These have a chemical affinity for water vapour allowing the diffusion
of water vapour through the amorphous regions of the polymer (see
Fig. 12.5).
The balance between hydrophilic and hydrophobic components of the
polymer system has to be optimized to give acceptable vapour permeability,
flexibility, durability and insolubility in water and dry cleaning solvents.
The effective length and density of the crosslinks are variables affecting
polymer swelling and thus vapour permeability. Hydrophilic polyurethanes
are discussed and formulations for the Witco flex range of hydrophilic
coatings are given by Lomax.
Coating techniques
- Lick roll
- Knife coating
- Gravuve coating (engraving)
- Rotary screen coating
- Hot melt coating
- Transfer coating
• If the pores in the fabric are very small and highly hydrophobic, then
blocking will not occur.
Although no rain penetrated the fabrics, the cooling effect of rain caused
condensation on the inner surface of the fabrics. This effect was the least
with PTFE laminated fabrics.
4 The water vapour transfer rate is reduced under wind driven rainy
conditions compared to that under rainy conditions for all fabrics
owing to the effect of both rain and condensation.
Both of the face and backing fabrics are individually unsuitable for
apparel for their lightweight and cost (when weight is increased). After
bonding two fabrics, much better fabric having all the good properties
including substantial gain weight can be produced this can be used for
specific purposes.
Thus bonded fabrics are very important in textile and apparel market
as they provide better appearance, surface, touch stability and
durability at much lower cost than identical single fabric.
Laminated
Bonded fabric
1. Fabric is attached with a continuous sheet 1. Two fabrics are joined
together
2. Good wrinkle resistance 2. Poor
wrinkle resistance
3. Tailoring property not so good 3. Good
tailoring property
4. Good insulation property with light weight 4. Insulation property is not
so good
5. Stability is less than bonded fabric 5. Good stability
6. Not so hygienic for wearing 6. Hygienic
& good for
Wearing.
7. Comparatively heavier than bonded fabric s 7. Relatively light weight.
Method of lamination
1. Sewing or stitching
2. Bonding with an adhesive
3. Welding with high frequency electric current
4. Slightly melting one layer
5. Laminated with foam
Techniques of lamination
Coating materials
Coating techniques
- Lick roll
- Knife coating
- Gravuve coating (engraving)
- Rotary screen coating
- Hot melt coating
- Transfer coating
Washing temp: 20-250C. For water resistant and water proof products and
coated materials careful wash with soap may be useful.
Reason for good thermal insulation
1. Duarability
2. Sensitivity to heat
Sewing
Adv.
1. Easy process
2. More air permeability
Disadv.
1. Poor appearance
2. Less insulation due to stitch
Adhesive bonding
Adv.
Disadv:
Melting
End Use
Woven
As artificial leather in Suit cases, Brief cases and various types career bags.
Mainly in apparel production, shoes, convertible tops for cars and awnings.
For winter/Autumn/Spring jacket/ heavy and light jacket, Waist coat, ladies
suit. Widely used in interlining velveteen. Winter coat (foam lamination),
furnishing fabric: Carpet, rug, Insulating materials.
Table cloths
Knitted
Ladies & youth coat, Men’s heavy & light jacket, ladies suit, waiste coat,
gowns, children cloth, Woolen type.