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Seam PDF

This document discusses different types of seams used in garment construction. It begins by defining a seam as a joint formed by stitches that unite two or more pieces of material. It then describes four key properties a seam should have: strength, elasticity, durability, and comfort. The document goes on to classify seams into 8 classes according to the British Standard 3870, describing the construction and common uses of each class, including superimposed seams, lapped seams, bound seams, flat seams, and decorative seams.

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975 views15 pages

Seam PDF

This document discusses different types of seams used in garment construction. It begins by defining a seam as a joint formed by stitches that unite two or more pieces of material. It then describes four key properties a seam should have: strength, elasticity, durability, and comfort. The document goes on to classify seams into 8 classes according to the British Standard 3870, describing the construction and common uses of each class, including superimposed seams, lapped seams, bound seams, flat seams, and decorative seams.

Uploaded by

Rakibul Hasan
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Seam

Presented by-
Israt Zebin Ansari
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
A seam is a joint where a sequence of stitches
unite two or more pieces of material and is used
for assembling parts in the production of sewn
items.
Seam Properties:
To make the seam perfect, following are the
requirements:
A. Seam Performance
B. Seam Appearance
A. Seam Performance:
Performance means the achievement of the
following factors-
1. Seam Strength:
Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric
strength. If seam strength is higher than fabric
strength, then fabric may be break due to
unexpected force to the fabric.
Seam strength depends on :
• Strength of thread used
• Unbalance stitch
• Stitch density
• Seam type
• Size of stitches
2. Seam Elasticity:
Seam elasticity should be equal or higher than
fabric elasticity. Otherwise, seam may be opened by
breaking of sewn thread in seam. Some fabrics or
garments may be stretched to 100% or more. Seam
elasticity varies if the fabric is knitted or woven.
3. Durability:
Durability of seam should be equal or higher than
that of fabric. A seam must be durable, long lasting
and not abrade (scrape) or wear easily during
everyday use of the garment including all necessary
laundering.
4. Comfort:
The seam of the garments must be comfortable and
do not create any problem while using.
5. Security:
Security is closely connected with durability. A seam
need to be secure and not to unravel or broke
during everyday use of the garment.
B. Seam Appearance:
Seam appearance should be:
• Satisfactory
• Defect free stitch
• Defect free seam
• Free from seam pucker
Classification of seam
According to BS 3870:1991 seam are classified into
8 classes. They are:
1. Class-1-Super imposed seam
2. Class-2-Lapped seam
3. Class-3-Bound seam
4. Class-4-Flat seam
5. Class-5-Decorative seam
6. Class-6-Edge Neatening seam
7. Class-7- Applied seam
8. Class-8- Single Ply Construction
Class-1-Super imposed seam
The seam of class-1 is called superimposed seam. This is the
most common & mostly used seam for joining fabrics. In
this seam, two plies of fabric are placed on one another
perfectly & then the fabrics are sewn. The sewn edges of
the fabrics remain in the same side.

Uses: side seam of skirt, trouser and children wear.


Stitches used: can be sewn with Stitch Types 301 or 401 to
create a simple seam. The same seam type can also be
sewn with Stitch class 500 (Over edge stitch) or
Combination stitches (e.g., Stitch class 516)
Class-2-Lapped seam
In this class of seam, two or more piles of material
are lapped (i.e., with edges overlaid, plain or
folded) and joined with one or more rows of
stitches. The two Sewn edges remain in two
opposite sides of the sewing line/seam line.

Stitches Used: generally sewn with a 401 chain


stitch.
Use: Lapped seam is used in main seaming of
denim jackets, side seam and inseam of jeans, side
seams of shirts, rain wear.
Class-3-Bound seam
The seam consists of an edge of material which
is bound by another, with the possibility of other
components inserted into the bindings.

Stitches Used: 401 chain stitch or 301 lockstitch.


Application: Necklines of t-shirts, Yoke join with
back part of shirt, sleeve hems, waist band join
with trouser etc.
Class-4-Flat seam
In these seams (sometimes called Butt seams), two
fabric edges, flat or folded, are brought together and
over sewn with stitches. The purpose of these seams
is to produce a joint where no extra thickness of fabric
can be tolerated at the seam.

Stitches used: Zigzag lock stitch, chain stitch or


covering stitch (class 600).
Application: Intensively used in under garments in
knit wear.
Class-5-Decorative seam
The main use of this seam is for decorative
sewing where single or multiple rows of stitches
are sewn through one or more layer of fabric.
These several layers can be folds of the same
fabric.

Application: Used in skirt, curtains so on.


Class-6-Edge Neatening seam
The seam of class-6- is called edge neatening
which is used to holds the edge of the fabric
such that the yarns of the fabric can not open
easily. All the over Lock stitch is edge neatening
class seam.

Application: Mostly used knitted garments and


hemming.
Class-7- Applied seam
This seam class involves seams that require the
addition of another component onto the edge of
a piece of fabric e.g., elastic braid onto the edge
of ladies briefs. This type of seam requires two
components.

Examples would be a band of lace on the edge


of a bra.
Class-8- Single Ply Construction
The final seam class in the British Standard is
another where only one piece of material need
involved in constructing the seam. The
commonest seam type in this class is the belt
loop as used on jeans, raincoats, etc.
Thanks

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