Product Instructions - Flat Bending Jig Instructions

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HOME / PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS / FLAT BENDING JIG INSTRUCTIONS
FLAT BENDING JIG INSTRUCTIONS

Here are the step-by-step pictures of bending a at as well as putting the step in the top rail.
Start off by getting the three main pieces of the jig in the correct orientation with the smaller
angled ends on the same end as the cut out in the center bar.
Set the angle plates on the center bar, but don't tighten the 3/8 bolts yet. Use a 9/16 wrench
to tighten the nuts on the 3/8 bolts.
Place the at on the center bar using the alignment pins. Just tap the at down over the pins.
Place the lower plate on and bolt them down with light torque. This is done with a 1/2"
wrench. Tightening these rst will square up the bottom of the angle plates with the at. Now
tighten the 3/8" bolts then go back over the 5/16" bolts for the last time. You don't have to
tighten the lower plate 5/16" bolts exceedingly tight since they will just hold the at in place.
The bottom bend is made tight when the top rail step is being made.

These are the new pieces for putting the step in the top rail as well as making a better bend
on the bottom of the receiver. If you already have the jig and are looking at the step upgrade
then you will get these pieces as well as the new angle plates.
The two angled pieces below go inside the jig base to support the center die of the jig while
putting the step in the top rail.
The angled supports go in the jig before bending the at. The short end of the support goes
towards the short end of the jig base.
Here is the latest top rail bending jig. It's different than the one in my old instructions. The
bolt is just in case the jig gets stuck together... just put the bolt in and press it out. Otherwise
a dead blow hammer can be used to just knock it off.
Grease up the at before bending it in the jig. The grease I used was some that I use for my
CNC machining centers. Any high pressure grease should be ne.
Place the jig base in the shop press and be sure to put the center part of the jig with the at in
the correct way.
I always start at the back of the at when bending. With the new setup there will be a piece of
steel that ts between the two ridges in the top angle plates.
DO NOT TRY AND BEND THE FLAT BY PRESSING ON THE ANGLE PLATES THAT WERE
MADE FOR THE TOP RAIL STEP WITHOUT THE 3/8" THICK PIECE OF STEEL!!!!
When starting to bend the at move from the back, center then to the front just bending the
at a little at a time. Too much at once can cause creases.
Below you can see that the rear of the at has barely been bent and I'm moving to the center
to do the next part of the bend.
Now I moved it to the front and made it bend a little bit more than the center. Work back and
forth doing this a couple of times before putting the block in the center of the jig and
pressing it in the rest of the wey.
Once the lower bend is made just press it down until it stops.
DON'T PUT EXCESSIVE PRESSURE ON THE ANGLE PLATES WITH THE STEEL BLOCK OR IT
WILL DAMAGE THE PLATES.
Get the top rail jig ready by greasing up the edge or just put the grease on the at.
Before bending the top rail over the support plates will need to be moved so they don't
contact the edge of the jig. If they touch then all of the clearance for bending the at will be
taken away and it will be almost impossible to bend the top rail over. The next two pictures
show the support plate interfering and the plate in the correct position for bending the top
rail. Once the top rail is bent then they can be put back into place. Don't try to leave them out
and put them in after bending the top rail unless you want to take the at out then put it back
in again.
There isn't a whole lot of room to work with, but moving these supports has to be done.
Use the 3/8" block of steel when pressing down on the jig to bend the top rails. The pressure
on the jig here may help keep the dimensions of the lower part of the receiver closer to 1.25"
so keep it closer to where the bottom bend of the receiver is at. Go from the back, middle
then to the front just like bending the main bend. It may pop going into place, but if there is
excessive resistance be sure to check the support plates to make sure they moved like the
picture above.
This is where I ipped the main jig over to bend the other top rail. The important part about
this picture is that it shows how the support plate is moved away from the wall of the jig
base.
Once you get the tops bent over they should like like the picture below. There is no need to try
and get them down much further than this before putting the die on for the step. Make sure
the angle supports are back in place before trying to press the bar down to do the step.
There is a front and back to the step die. The rear of the die is pictured and you can see the
basic area where the bolt carrier would be cut out. This of course goes towards the back of
the receiver. Double check this when putting it on and don't mess up because you are in a
hurry.
The main amount of pressure will be needed in the center part of the length of the at. The
front of the at doesn't need a step, but I've made it to where the die will make an over bend.
The back of the jig is the same way. Align the die with the front of the receiver. The die is
machined so it will just t between the two angle plates so keeping the die in the same place
can be done with relative ease. This way you can look at how well it's making the step. Don't
get all crazy and destroy the jig by putting too much pressure on it.
Below you can see the over bend on the front of the receiver. This helps keep it at 90 degrees
or even a little under.
Now it's really starting to look like something. The step is done and the top rails are bent
down so you don't have to worry about having to hammer anything.
To take the center die of the jig out of the base I use a plastic dead blow hammer to keep
from damaging the center die.
This is just a close-up picture of the top rails after being bent.
The dreaded distorted trigger hole.... Well not really since you just hammer over the small
part of it on my ats then ream it out after to 7mm. The hole will be completely round with a
full thickness of metal to support the bottom of the trigger pin. If this wasn't one of my ats
with the hole that needed to be reamed then there wouldn't be a completely round hole to
support the trigger pin.
In the next picture I have hammered the bottom edge of the trigger pin hole, but that's not the
best part of this picture. Look at the bottom of the receiver.... it's perfectly at!
Look at the bends on the front of the lower part of the receiver. The new con guration of the
jig makes these the best bends you can nd on any of the at bending jigs on the market.
This picture also shows removing the center bar so the angle plates can be removed.
With the step put in the top rails the angle plates will need a little force to get them out of the
receiver. I use the awesome orange dead blow hammer to hit the bottom edge of the angle
plate to break it loose from the receiver.
Here you can see the rear of the receiver after being bent. You can see how at the bottom of
the receiver is on the inside as well as how sharp the bends are.
The following three pictures aren't really a function of bending the ats, but more of a result
of how the ats were designed. The top rail and front of the receiver should be at a 90 degree
angle once bent. The rst picture is the receiver that has been bent on the jig in the pictures
above from one of my ats. The second picture is of a Tapco at with the wrong angle. The
third picture is from a demilled Hungarian AMMS showing the 90 degree angle on the front of
the receiver.
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Call Lonnie 816-229-0804 #2

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FLAT BENDING JIG INSTRUCTIONS

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