6 PATTERNS

TOP TIPS & SEW OUR STUNNING GORGEOUS

✂
TECHNIQUES SEWING BEE JACKET!
Master
your
sewing
machine
6-20

The complete expert guide to

DRESSMAKING
Stretch your skills!

Learn
to love How to
delicate pattern
fabric match

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 Welcome To our complete guide to
dressmaking!

16

I
f you’re Great British Sewing Bee
new to the team! You’ll find expert
world of guides to drafting your own
dressmaking patterns, working with tricky
or you fabric and much, much
fancy a little more. Delve into your stash
refresher to make a patchwork jacket
and some on page 16 or practise your
exciting new ideas, then this print matching to create a
book is just what you need! beautiful check dress on
page 28.
We’re going back to basics
to explore your sewing I hope you find plenty of
machine, choosing the right inspiration inside to get
garment style, what thread your sewing machines
type to use, and what sorts whirring and help you grow
of fabric are best suited to your dressmaking skills
your next project. as well as your me-made
wardrobes, of course!

Bethany
We’ve packed in six projects
from leading designers,
including Fiona Hesford,
28 Debbie Shore and The Senior Editor

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 Contents
Learn
6 Get to know your
sewing machine
21
8 How to sew for
your shape
14 Demystifying
fabric types

11
18 Top 10 essential
sewing tools
26 Expert guide to thread
32 Must-try workshops

35
38 Stitch settings
to practise

Projects
11 Wrap it up skirt
16 Scrap-happy jacket
21 What a frill top
24 30-minute mini skirt
28 Check please dress
35 Top marks blouse

Abbreviations
RST – Right sides together
WST – Wrong sides together
SA – Seam allowance

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 16 28 Glossary
A quick guide to some of the
terms used inside this book

Baste – To loosely hold a garment

together with large running stitches
before you permanently stitch
the fabric. Use a contrasting
colour thread and remove these
stitches afterwards.

Bias binding – Narrow strips of

fabric used along hem edges.
Can be bought readymade or
made at home.

Hem – The lower edge of a

garment. It can be a single or
double fabric fold.

Interfacing – Layer added inside

garments to increase structure,
shape and stability, such as collars,
yokes and shoulder seams. Can be
ironed on or sewn in.

Overlocker (serger) – These

specialist machines cut and
finish the edges of fabric and
are commonly used on knits.

Seam allowance – The gap

between the stitching and the edge
of the fabric. Check your pattern as it
may throughout within the garment.

Toile – A test garment made from

cheap or scrap fabric to check a
pattern fit before cutting into more
expensive fabric.

Top stitching – Stitching on the

right side of the fabric close to the
edge to create a professional and
sometimes purely decorative finish.

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 Master your
machine
Each machine model offers a range
of features and functions, but all have
the fundamental elements in common.
Use this handy guide and you’ll know
your way around yours in no time

 THREAD GUIDES  PRESSER FOOT LIFTER 1

9
Two threads make up each For lifting and lowering to hold
stitch – the top thread and the the fabric in place while you sew.
bobbin thread. The top thread Release it to remove the fabric from
from the spool of cotton the machine.
passes through the thread  BOBBIN CASE
guide, which regulates the Inside the removable cover is the 19
tension of the thread before bobbin case, which houses the
it’s fed through the needle. bobbin. The bobbin is wound with
 SPEED CONTROLLER thread and provides the second
A slider that sets the speed thread for each stitch. 3
the machine will work at  FEED DOGS
when the pedal is pressed, These moving parts lie underneath
allowing control and precision the needle plate. With spiked teeth 18
when sewing. that protrude from the opening,
 REVERSE FUNCTION these help to move the fabric
Use this to set the machine through the machine.
working in a reverse direction,  NEEDLE PLATE
4
to move backwards across The metal plate directly below the
a stitched line. This function needle and presser
is used when securing the foot. The small opening allows the
5
threads at the start and end of thread from the bobbin to pass 16 8
a line of stitching. through while the needle enters 7
 NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP to make the stitches. On
The needle is removable the plate are guide markings to 6
to allow you to select from assist straight sewing and measure
a variety of types and sizes seam allowances. “IF YOU'RE
STRUGGLING WITH
to suit your project. The  PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL
THE THREADING ON
needle is held in place by the Used for releasing/increasing the A NEW MACHINE,
17
clamp. Most machines include weight of the foot on the fabric, for PRACTISE WITH RED
a tool for tightening and example when working appliqué. You THREAD UNTIL YOU
loosening the clamp to access can release the pressure to enable GET THE HANG OF IT”
the needle. you to turn the fabric smoothly.
Ruth

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 YOUR MACHINE

 BOBBIN WINDER where the needle moves from left

Winds thread from the cotton to right, such as a zigzag stitch.
spool onto the bobbin, ensuring Adjusting the width button will
that the thread is fed evenly onto also move the needle position,
the bobbin and maintains the which is important when sewing
correct tension. in zips and piping etc.
 SPOOL HOLDER  FREE ARM
10 This pin runs through the This is a narrower working
11
centre of a spool of thread, space created when the
allowing it to feed smoothly accessory box is removed. This is
through the machine. perfect for sewing smaller items
12  SCREEN or inserting sleeves.
Displays the relevant information  ACCESSORY DRAWER
regarding the stitch style, width Use to store alternative presser
2 13 and length that has been selected. feet, spare bobbins and
13 HAND WHEEL maintenance tools.
Manually operates the mechanics  START/STOP BUTTON
of the machine, moving the This allows you to operate the
15 needle up and down and machine without the foot pedal.
engaging the feed dogs. Newer,  THREAD CUT BUTTON
computerised machines also have This will cut the threads after
a needle up/down button which sewing and is highlighted in
can be programmed to stay in the the screen with the thread
down position – ideal for pivoting cutter mark.
on corners.
 STITCH SELECTOR Trouble with
14 Allows you to select from the
different stitches on the machine
tension?
and includes a menu from which Check that both the machine
you make your selection. The and bobbin are correctly
threaded. If these aren't
stitch is selected by pressing the
exactly right, this can cause
relevant button and the number incorrect tension. Also check
will appear on the screen. that the thread on the bobbin
 STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH is wound correctly. If it's too
WIDTH SELECTORS tight or too loose, it won't
Use to increase or decrease the feed through the machine
length or width of your stitch. and make even stitches.
The shorter the stitch, the more Another good tip is to use the
stitches are worked across the same thread in the machine
and the bobbin – even
line of sewing, making it stronger.
slightly different threads can
The width applies to stitches unbalance the tension

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 perfect fit
Find your What to consider to ensure
your me-made wardrobe fits
just as you want it to

Shaping Ease
Ease is a way of describing the
Look at the shape of the
size of the garment compared to
body of the garments you
the size of the person wearing it.
love. Are they boxy and
By carefully measuring yourself
square or do they come
and some garments that fit you
in at the waist? Do you
well you can determine whether
like a good dipped hem
you prefer your garments with
at the back of a top or
positive ease (loose
perhaps a cropped style
fitting) or negative
to accommodate high-
ease (tight fitting).
waisted jeans? Picking
a garment with a
fit that you know
works for you is
key to finding
your perfect
match.

Phoebe top With a Flourish

by Tammy dress by Julia
Handmade Claridge from
from issue 90 issue 89

Don’t forget…
Don’t be afraid to make adaptations to a pattern to make it
fit your style. The beauty of me-made garments is you are
the designer, you’re putting in your time and effort and you
should feel amazing in whatever you sew!

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 FITTING
In Bloom jacket
by My Handmade
Length Wardrobe Patterns Fabric
It may seem obvious from issue 87 The right fabric can
but depending on our absolutely transform
height, size and style, a garment – and
the garment that what works for you
looks perfect on the may not work for
model in pictures everyone. If you
can look less so tend to feel the cold,
when we make it choose garments
ourselves. Consider designed for heavier-
any adaptations to weight fabric or
the length of the pick lightweight,
skirt, trousers or breathable fabrics if
sleeves to suit your you get warm easily
body before you and prefer clothes
Autumn Daze begin to make sure you can layer.
skirt by Claire you get plenty of
Garside from wear out of your
new garment!
issue 87

Neckline Sleeves
The right neckline can make Look at the body of a
a huge difference to the look garment, pay attention
of a garment. When looking at to how the sleeves are
necklines, consider not only joined. Set-in sleeves
whether they flatter your body give a more tailored
but also your face. You should look, while raglans,
also think about what you wear yokes and drop
underneath – if you like blouses sleeves can be more
with collars then try a V-neck casual. You may also
cardigan rather than a have a style you
high neck. enjoy sewing more
than others!

Keen as Mustard
sweatshirt
Afternoon tee by Claire by Claire Garside
Garside from issue 85 in issue 89

Shop back issues of Love Sewing at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk and download now at www.pocketmags.com
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 9

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 WE LOVE STYLE

Wrap it up
skirt
This wrap skirt is simple to
make and comfy to wear with
its elasticated waist. Choose a
floaty fabric such as viscose or
polycotton to create a pretty
drape from the waistband
Project DEBBIE SHORE

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 A B

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

✂ the width of your fabric
needs to be 1.5 times your hip
measurement, as this will allow
the fabric to wrap around your C
hips and overlap at the front –
you may need to join a few pieces
together. The skirt can be as long
as you like, but remember to add
2.5cm to the length for hemming
(see Notes)
✂ 5cm-wide elastic, cut to your
waist measurement
✂ Rolled-hem foot (optional)

NOTES: hem along both side edges – Measure and mark quarter
Use a 1.5cm seam allowance a rolled-hem foot will help to points around the skirt waist.
throughout unless otherwise stated create a tiny, neat hem. If you Place the elastic over RS of the
About the book To take your measurements, place don’t have a rolled-hem foot, skirt and pin around the top,
the elastic around your waist and create a double hem instead. matching up the markings.
pull slightly – use this as your elastic (See Pic B.) (See Pic D.)
measurement. Measure from your  Wrap the fabric to create  Sew the elastic in place
waist to the desired length of skirt the ‘tube’ of the skirt; the with a zigzag stitch, carefully
and measure around the fullest part circumference of the stretching the elastic as you
of your hips tube should be your hip sew. Once it is sewn, fold the
HOW TO MAKE: measurement plus an extra elastic to the inside of the
 Carefully take your 2.5cm to allow for comfort. skirt. Top-stitch just below the
measurements and work out Sew around the top to create fabric fold to hold the elastic in
how large your fabric needs to the skirt shape. (See Pic C.) place, again, stretching as you
Adapted from Debbie be. You may need to join a few  Overlap the ends of your sew. (See Pic E.)
Shore’s Sewing Room pieces together to achieve the elastic by 1cm and sew them  Try the skirt on to check
Secrets: Essential Skills for right width. (See Pic A.) together with a zigzag stitch the length, then hem around
Dressmakers by Debbie
 If you’re using the full width to make a loop. Measure and the bottom; either make a
Shore, £9.99 published by
Search Press. Available from of fabric, remember to cut off mark quarter points around rolled hem or a double hem.
www.searchpress.com the selvedges. Make a small the loop with an erasable pen. (See Pic F.)

12 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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 WE LOVE STYLE

D E

Masterclass
SEWING ON ELASTIC

Elastic can be sewn to a few stitches at the end of

cuff on a sleeve, around the elastic to secure, then
the hem of a floaty blouse gently pull the elastic as
or around the waist of a you sew over it. It will
dress to give it shape. It’s help to ease the fabric
available in many sizes and from the back of the
colours but generally isn’t machine at the same
seen as it’s sewn to the time, but try not to pull
wrong side of the fabric. against the needle or the
If you’re sewing around a stitches could become
How to create a rolled hem hem or cuff, sew the hem
first, as you’ll find it quite
distorted. It pays to
practise first!
difficult to hem fabric after To help you pass a
It’s possible to create a tiny rolled hem on your
it’s been gathered. piece of elastic all the
overlocker/serger which is barely visible, and
Mark the line along way through a waistband
a good choice for curved hemlines. Try using
with stretch fabrics such as jersey to create a which your elastic will be channel – which can be a
pretty fluted hem on garments like pyjamas and sewn – this will help to fiddly job – attach a safety
children’s clothing. keep it in a straight line pin to one end: you’ll be
as you sew. Choose a able to feel it through the
wide zigzag stitch on your fabric and it will give you
sewing machine. Sew a something to grip on to.

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 textiles
Demystifying There are so many different types of
fabric, but what are they and what are their
properties? Use our handy fabric guide to
plan your next dressmaking project

Lightweight woven fabric Medium-weight woven fabric

A popular choice for any level of sewist as it’s wearable and Medium-weight fabric is most suited to projects that
available in a wide range of fabric types, colours and patterns. need a little more durability and is often seen in home
It is most used often used for dressmaking, although it can be furnishings such as cushions and curtains, as well as
used in a wide variety of home and decorative makes. outerwear such as jackets and coats.

Fabric type How to recognise it… Fabric type How to recognise it…
Smooth and crisp to touch. Strong and
COTTON Slightly stiffer feel than
stretches on the bias MEDIUM-WEIGHT
lightweight cotton and
COTTON more durable
Not as smooth as cotton. Strong and
POLYCOTTON
doesn’t crease as easily as cotton
Fluffy and soft to touch. Has a
Very fine crisp cotton, can be slightly nap, meaning the fabric must
LAWN FLANNEL
transparent. Silky to touch cut with the nap going in the
right direction
Durable tightly woven fabric.
POPLIN
Doesn’t crease easily Rich, luxurious feel, with a
VELVET
raised pile and nap
Similar look to denim but lighter weight
CHAMBRAY
and more breathable
Soft, breathable and synthetic.
FLEECE
Looks purposely crinkled, fine Both sides look the same
SEERSUCKER
and breathable
VINYL/ Synthetic or plastic feel.
Fine and soft with a visible weave, most LAMINATED/ Waterproof and durable with a
MUSLIN strong backing fabric
common in white and cream OILCLOTH

Very absorbent and strong with a visible Vertically ridged with ‘wales’.
LINEN CORDUROY
weave. Creases Soft and flattering with a nap

Feels coarser than cotton and mostly has

CALICO
a creamy, unbleached look

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 FABRIC FOCUS

Heavyweight fabric Knit fabric

This type of fabric is made to last and more commonly Knit fabric has a two-way stretch on
used in projects that have lots of use and therefore the crossgrain or a four-way stretch in all
experience wear and tear. It can be found in everything directions. Always check your patterns for notes on
from bags to upholstery to winter clothing – think of what percentage stretch you need in your fabric.
jeans and jackets!

Fabric type How to recognise it… Fabric type How to recognise it…

Hardwearing, durable and Light- to medium-weight single knit fabric.

DENIM Good drape and can be blended as a wool
doesn’t crease easily
JERSEY KNIT or silk jersey. Both sides
CANVAS Tightly woven, strong and hardwearing are different, one has knit and the
other has purl stitches
Durable, flexible and natural.
LEATHER Medium-weight four-way stretch fabric,
Can be coarse or soft to touch COTTON
ideal for T-shirts and casual garments.
Looks like leather but is JERSEY Will roll at the cut edges
FAUX LEATHER
made from synthetic fibres
Soft and natural with a nap. Knit fabric with a slick surface, great
SUEDE
Strong and durable SCUBA KNIT stretch and recovery. Good for activewear,
swimwear and dresses
Natural, dense and doesn’t crease.
WOOL
Absorbs water well SWEATSHIRT Strong and stable with a firm stretch and
Rough, unfinished feel KNIT comfortable to wear
TWEED
from natural wool fibre
Lightweight, smooth with high stretch
SPANDEX capabilities. Use for activewear
or undergarments

Natural, dense and doesn’t crease.

WOOL
Absorbs water well

Rough, unfinished feel from

TWEED
natural wool fibres

Discover a wide range of fabric types for all occasions at www.fabricguys.co.uk

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 Scrap happy
jacket
Use offcuts and self-drafting
techniques to create this square-
cut open jacket. Try delicate fabric
for a summer staple or sturdier
choices like denim for a heavier
choice of patchwork
Project CAROLINE AKSELSON
& ALEXANDRA BRUCE

16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Photography ©Brooke Harwood and Charlotte Medlicott

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 WE LOVE STYLE

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

✂ co-ordinating fabric scraps of a
no shoulder seam, but the
shoulder line would lie
stitch them together, and
press the seams open. Lay Masterclass
similar weight halfway through the big the patterns on top of the ATTACHING
✂ bias binding for the sleeve
hems, neck, centre front & hem
rectangle, where the head
opening is. For the body,
patchwork and cut out
the pieces.
BIAS BINDING
✂ plain fabric, such as light measure from your nape 6 With RST, pin and sew
cotton, to line the garment to the desired length of the the sleeves to the centre Bias binding is a great way
(optional) garment, and multiply that by of the body rectangle. to finish off exposed seam
✂ pattern paper to create your two. This will form the length Overlock the allowances, to invisibly finish
own pattern pieces of the large rectangle. The seam allowances, then armholes and necklines without
NOTES: width of the rectangle press towards the body. having to use a facing, or to
Choose from an open jacket or is roughly 60cm. Add 7 With RST, aligning the decoratively finish curved
add tie fastenings along the centre hem allowances. underarm and side edges, edges. We recommend that you
front opening 2 Draw a slightly oval fold your garment in half. staystitch any curves before you
shape in the centre for the Pin and sew the underarm apply bias binding.
PREPARATION head opening. To add tie and side seam on each side
1 This garment is made of fastenings along the centre in one go. Overlock the Sewn on with one seam
three rectangles: one that front opening, make sure the seam allowances and As the binding is visible on
forms the body and two centre front edges touch. For press towards the back of both sides of the bound edge,
that form sleeves. It has an open jacket, separate and the garment. this technique is suitable for
shape the centre front lines. 8 Bind the sleeve hems, decorative binding and for
3 For the sleeves, measure the neckline, the centre finishing seam allowances that
from your shoulder to front and the hem (see are visible.
About the book the desired length for the Masterclass).
length. For the width, loosely 9 For the optional lining, 1 If you are making binding
measure your armhole and using the same pattern yourself, fold the long raw
use that. If you want a more pieces, cut out the lining edges of your bias strip in to the
shaped sleeve, bring the lines pieces. Assemble the lining centre (this is how it arrives if it’s
in slightly towards the wrist. in the same way as the readymade). Then fold the bias
Add seam allowances. jacket. After Step 6, slot binding in half lengthwise, WST,
4 Cut out your paper the lining into the jacket, with a step: one side should
pattern pieces. with WST. Machine-tack be about 3mm wider than the
within the seam allowance other. Press well.
HOW TO MAKE around the sleeve hems,
5 Lay out your fabric scraps neck, centre front and 2 Slot the binding around the
Adapted from The Great
to get a good distribution hem. Bind these edges raw edge that you are binding.
British Sewing Bee:
Sustainable Style by Caroline of colours and patterns – to finish. The wider half should lie
Akselson and Alexandra Bruce remember to allow for seam underneath. Top-stitch from RS;
(Quadrille, £27) Photography allowances! When you’re you will automatically catch the
©Brooke Harwood and
happy with the arrangement, other side of the bias as it’s a
Charlotte Medlicott
little bit wider.

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 tools
1 SEAM RIPPERS
Unpick tacking stitches or any
seams gone awry with minimal
Top 10 Get started in
effort with this useful tool.
2 STORAGE
dressmaking with our
Keep your sewing supplies pick of must-have
organised and close by with a tools from Prym
storage box or basket.
3 PINS
Heat-resistant pins with glass
heads allow you to iron over 2. Thimbles sewing basket, from £45
them and spy them easily in your 3. £2.90 per pack of 30
seams to slide out as you sew.
4 NEEDLES
Different fabric requires different
needles. A ballpoint needle is
great for knits whereas you will
need a heavyweight or specialist
needle for leather and denim.
Universal needles can sew
through most fabric but double
check your project first and 4. Needle packs from £2.90
your machine to see what it’s
compatible with. Remember to
5 CUTTING
change your needle
Every dressmaker needs a good
pair of fabric scissors that will
approximately every
glide through with ease. Some eight hours of sewing
sewists like having a rotary cutter
to hand or large pieces of fabric
and a little pair of snips is handy
for loose threads.
6 MEASURING
Measuring accurately is essential
in sewing and you can never
have too many tape measures
at hand! A dressmaker’s ruler or
‘dressmaker’s curve’ is the next 5. Gold tailor’s scissors, £44.40
step up, assisting with seam 1. Large seam ripper, £4.40 Never cut paper with your
allowances, marking buttonholes fabric scissors as it will
and measuring curves. blunt the blades

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 TOOLS

6. Dressmaker’s 7 MARKING
ruler, £32.40
10. Prymadonna To mark your fabric you
multi dressform,
from £280 can use anything from tailor’s
7. Tracing wheel, £9.99
chalk to a water- or air-erasing
marker pen. Always check on
a scrap of your fabric
that it removes easily before
you start. You can also use
a tracing wheel which will
leave a light indent when
transferring patterns.
8 PRESSING/IRONING
An iron is an invaluable tool
in the sewing room, allowing
you to prep your fabric, press
seams and adhere fusible
interfacing in place. A mini
iron is particularly great for
precision pressing!
9 DRAFTING
Create and trace your own
0 patterns with semi-transparent
7. Trick marker, £4.20 tissue paper featuring a printed
6. Tape measure, £2.90 scale, ideal for enlarging
patterns and creating motifs.
 DRESSFORMS
Audition your pattern pieces
and find your perfect fit with a
dressform. Adjustable varieties
can be changed to suit a
range of sizes and shapes,
check your measurements
beforehand to ensure your
dressform is just what
8. Steam mini iron, £36 you need.

Shop these must-have

tools and more at www.
prym.com or find your local
supplier at www.prym.
9. Dressmaking pattern com/en/find-a-dealer
paper, £10.80 per 10m roll

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 WE LOVE STYLE

What a
frill
Learn how to make delicate
bias-cut ruffles that are perfect for
adding to a simple top or skirt
Project AMY SCARR

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 A B

Top tip!
Before you start, check MATERIALS & TOOLS: HOW TO MAKE:
your chalk is easily ✂ 1.5m chiffon 1 Mark the centre front onto
removable! ✂ 1.5m co-ordinating lining the WS of the bodice front
✂ 50cm fusible interfacing lining piece in chalk.
✂ tailor's chalk or 1 Layer the WS of the chiffon
air-erasable marker bodice front on top of the RS
✂ co-ordinating thread of the lining. Baste around the
✂ templates downloaded from outer edges within the seam
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk allowance to hold the two
layers together.
SIZING: 2 Using a long clear
Size Bust Waist Hips dressmaker’s ruler, position
your ruler at a 45° angle to the
8 33” 26” 36”
centre front line. On the WS of
10 35” 28” 38” the lining mark a line that runs
12 37” 30” 40” across the piece, taking care
not to drag the fabric as you
14 39” 32” 42” go. I used a rotary chalk wheel
16 41” 34” 44” to get a crisp smooth line in
18 43” 36” 46”
one motion. You may prefer to
use an air-erasable fabric pen.
20 45” 38” 48” 3 Choose how wide you’d like
your frills to be – I chose 1.5cm
frills so marked 3cm parallel
CUTTING:
Shopping list lines. Continue to mark parallel
lines until the bodice front is
Coral chiffon, £4.99 per metre covered. Work carefully so you
Coral peachskin polyester, £7.99 per metre don’t smudge the chalk with
Both from www.minervacrafts.com your arm or the ruler.

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 WE LOVE STYLE

Masterclass
FINE FABRIC
This project is perfect for move the material you risk
trying in trickier fabric, cutting it off the grain.
such as silk or silk blends,
D E polyester or a viscose-mix If you plan to regularly
fabric. Here are some top sew with slippery or
tips for working with these lightweight fabric, invest
types of fabric. in a straight stitch needle
plate. This can be easily
It is important to use swapped with your regular
sharp dressmaking shears plate with a screwdriver
that are only used on fabric! and has a smaller eye
for the needle to pass
Scissors with finely serrated through, meaning fabric
blades are perfect for is less likely to be dragged
4 Sew along the marked 7 Fuse interfacing to the WS slippery fabric as they grip into the mechanism as
lines in a co-ordinating thread of the neckline and armhole the cloth as you cut. Take you sew.
(or contrasting if you prefer), facings and finish the lower long slices, using the whole
working in the same direction edges with a zigzag stitch or length of the blades as Stay sharp by using
for each line. (See Pic A.) on an overlocker. Then, with you cut. extra-fine pins such
5 Using your scissors cut the RST, sew the armhole facings as special lace or silk pins,
chiffon layer only down the together at the shoulder If you prefer using a rotary and a fresh thin needle
centre of two sewn lines. Cut seams and press open. cutter, ensure you have a in your machine. Failure to
in long strokes so you don’t (See Pic C.) large enough mat so you do so will risk snags and
get a ragged edge. Repeat 8 With RST, sew front and won’t have to reposition visible holes in your
until the front is fully ruffled. back bodice together at your fabric multiple times fabric, which will ruin
(See Pic B.) Run a hot iron shoulder seams and press to cut it out. Each time you the final finish.
back and forth over the frills to open. (See Pic D.) Repeat for
make them stand away from front and back neck facings. at the curved edges to help armhole facings up. Pin, then
the lining. Because you cut 9 Place the bodice and them sit flat and under-stitch sew side and facing seams in
the ruffles at a 45° angle they neckline facing RST and pin in the facings to the seam one motion and press open.
will not fray as they are on place. Repeat for the armhole allowance to prevent them Finish raw edges with a zigzag
the bias. facings. Sew in place using a from rolling forward. Press stitch or on an overlocker.
6 Repeat steps 1-5 for the 1cm seam allowance. (See Pic the facings to the inside.  Turn up a small hem and
back bodice. E.) Notch the seam allowances  Turn the top RST and flip sew in place to finish.

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LS92 SUPP.P21.indd 23 02/03/2021 10:19

 30-minute
mini
skirt
Follow this handy step-by-step
tutorial to make a stylish skirt to
measure for a perfectly flattering
fit unique to you
Project ELENA ROSA
RANDOMLY HAPPY

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

✂ 1m stretch fabric (jersey or ponte
work best)
✂ tape measure
✂ ruler
✂ chalk or fabric pen
✂ fabric scissors
✂ pins
✂ 1m 1”-wide elastic tape
✂ matching thread
✂ ballpoint or stretch needles

HOW TO MAKE:
 Measure the circumference
For a wide range of jersey fabric, visit www.craftysewandso.co.uk of your waist. Write this down

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 WE LOVE STYLE

DETERMINING STRETCH GAUGE

To determine how stretchy your fabric is, use our handy stretch gauge from Coralie Grillet of www.wearologie.com

and divide it by four. This is Draw a line running from the A B

your waist measurement. bottom of your hip measure
Measure the circumference (the bottom of the skirt) to the
of your hips (or widest part point where you marked your
of your lower body). Write hip measurement. This line
this down and divide by four. runs parallel to the fold in the
This is your hip measurement. fabric.
Finally, measure the length  Draw a slightly curved line
you'd like your skirt to be to connect the two lines you
from waist to hem, and then drew in Step 2.
measure from the hem to Add a hem allowance by
C D
the point where you took drawing a line 2cm from the
your hip measurement (or bottom edge. Add 2” to the
the widest part of your lower top of the skirt for a waistband;
body). Write these down. add 1cm seam allowance to
 Fold your fabric in half the side. (See Pic A.)
with the stretch running  Cut out your skirt piece.
perpendicular to the fold. Cut another skirt piece by
Mark out the length of your following steps 2-4 again.
skirt along the fold, including Place the two skirt pieces
the length where you took together with RST. Match the forms a circle – sewing in an X elastic. Sew the folded fabric
your hip measurement. raw edges and pin in place. shape helps ensure the elastic in place by sewing close to the
Starting at the left point, Sew the side seams using is secure. (See Pic C.) raw edge using a zigzag stitch.
draw a line as long as your a 1cm seam allowance and  With the wrong side of (See Pic D.)
waist measurement (your zigzag stitch. (See Pic B.) the skirt facing out, place the  Hem your skirt by folding
waist circumference divided  Place the elastic tape circle of elastic around the the bottom edge of the skirt
by 4). On the far side draw around your waist until it skirt. Place the elastic 1” below over by 1cm and again by 1cm.
a line as long as your hip feels snug. Add 1cm to this the top edge of the skirt. Fold Sew along the top
measurement (your hip measurement and cut. Sew the fabric over so the fabric of the fold using a wide
circumference divided by 4). the elastic together so that it is completely covering the straight stitch.

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 sew!
Ready, thready, Duncan Yarnall, head of Madeira
Consumer Products, offers an
expert guide to the different
thread types you will need

A CENTURY OF THREAD COTONA 50 AEROFIL AEROLOCK

EXCELLENCE Cotona 50 is Madeira’s 100% Aerofil is an all-purpose, Aerolock is Madeira’s all-purpose
Madeira has been producing Cotton of choice. A fine high-quality sewing thread overlock thread, available in 33
thread for over a century machine thread, it is made made of 100% strong colours and made from 100%
now, from its worldwide of the best Egyptian cotton polyester. Equally at home strong polyester. Designed for all
headquarters in Freiburg, to give the best quality for garment construction, manner of overlock applications,
Germany. Perhaps best seams and stitches. With home furnishing and all its strength and quality are second
known for embroidery an extensive colour palette manner of seam sewing. It to none for long-lasting seams.
threads, Madeira caters for of 120 options, Cotona is gives an unrivalled stitch and The colours match those of
sewists around the world, also produced in 80 and 30 finish and creates long lasting Aerofil, for perfect
offering high-quality sewing, weight ranges for all sewing projects, with durability, co-ordination of overlocking,
overlocking, patchwork and and quilting machines. elasticity and strength in seams and construction. It is
quilting thread too! It’s recommended for an 180 colours. Suitable for colourfast, and performs well on
embroidery needle NM 75-80. machines and hand sewing all sewing and overlock machines.
it’s recommended for a Aerolock is recommended for
sewing needle NM 75-80. sewing needles NM 75-80.

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LS92 SUPP.P26.indd 26 02/03/2021 10:23

 THREAD GUIDE

Duncan’s
EXPERT TIPS
✂ All thread contains take on air moisture in
lubrication in the finishing damp conditions, resulting
process, to aid in the in difficult stitching.
stitching process on the ✂ Needles. Most cases
machine. This lubrication of stitching issues can
can dry out over the life of relate to needles. This is
the thread. This is why very a key component and
old thread will be difficult the only method your
to stitch with. To get the machine uses to carry
best results from any the thread through the
thread, avoid drying out fabric. The suggested life
the thread with storage span of a standard seam
in direct sunlight or very construction sewing
hot conditions, needle is approximately
✂ For the same reason, 6-7 hours of continuous
avoid open thread use. By switching your
storage in areas of large needle regularly, the best
AEROFLOCK MONOFIL temperature fluctation or sewing results can be
Aeroflock is a Oeko-Tex® Madeira Monofil is humidity. A natural thread achieved with only an
certified texturised polyester monofilament fine, such as 100% cotton can investment of pennies.
thread designed for specific transparent thread, perfect
overlock applications. It gives for fine to medium-weight
all the quality of its sister fabric. Tough, strong and
thread Aerolock, but with durable, it gives you the About Duncan Yarnall
an element of stretch and ability to stitch where a stitch
elongation that is perfect for does not want to be seen. With over 25 years of textiles industry
fabric with a larger degree It’s available in two gauges experience in thread sales, Duncan has
of movement. It’s perfect and colours: Clear for bright experienced all aspects of the sewing
for jersey, Lycra and other fabrics and Smoke for dark landscape and has an in-depth knowledge
stretch fabrics and is available fabrics. It’s recommended for of threads. Discover more about Madeira
in 24 colours. sewing needles 75-80. products at www.garne.madeira.de

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LS92 SUPP.P26.indd 27 02/03/2021 10:23

 please!
Check
The Gloria dress is a breath of fresh air
in cool cotton gingham. With frill detail
at the cuffs and patch pockets, she’s
got easy appeal
Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

For a wide range of check cotton fabric, visit www.jessali.com

28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS92 SUPP.P28.indd 28 02/03/2021 10:24

 WE LOVE STYLE

LAYPLAN FOLD

Sleve frill
Front

Sleeve
Pocket
B.Facing

Back

F.Facing
SIZING
Finished Finished Finished Finished
bust waist hip length
Small (8-10) 94cm 87cm 98cm 94cm
Medium (12-14) 104cm 97cm 108cm 95.5cm
Large (16-18) 114cm 107cm 118cm 97cm

MATERIALS & TOOLS: zip into the CB seam now for

✂ 1.9m 124cm-wide gingham ease later! Use an invisible
cotton or similar medium- zipper foot for a neat finish
weight fabric and sew the zip on the RS of
✂ 20cm fusible the garment. Finish the CB
lightweight interfacing seam by continuing to sew
✂ 56cm concealed zip below the zipper stop.
✂ co-ordinating thread 4 Join the front to back at
✂ templates downloaded from shoulder seams and press
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk open. Sew the neckband
facing together at shoulder
NOTES seams and press seams open,
Finish the raw edges with a machine then finish the raw outer
zigzag stitch or overlocker edge all around.
1cm seam allowance is included 5 With RST pin the facing to
the neckline edge and down
HOW TO MAKE the CB along the side of
1 Fuse interfacing to the WS the zip. Tack-stitch in place
of the neck facing pieces. then sew with a 1.5cm seam
2 Create the darts at the allowance at the neckline.
front and back. Swap to a zipper foot and
3 Finish the raw edges of sew down the zipper.
the CB seams. We’ll insert the 6 Notch the curves of the

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LS92 SUPP.P28.indd 29 02/03/2021 10:24

 A B

seam allowance and clip the Gather cuff piece along the
corners. (See Pic A.) Turn unhemmed side.
to the RS and push out the With RST, pin then tack the
corners, then the seams. gathered cuff piece to the
 Top-stitch the neckline sleeve. Ease the gathers all
on the RS to secure around to fit and sew them in
the facing in position, place. (See Pic C.)
approximately 3cm from the Pin, tack, then sew the
edge. (See Pic B for a guide.) sleeve into the armhole,
 With RST, sew the front matching the notches.
to back at the side seams. Finish the raw edge and press
With RST sew the sleeve the seam allowance towards
side seams and sew the cuff the body.
pieces at the short sides. Hem the dress at the
 Working on each cuff lower edge as required.
piece, sew a 2cm hem Fold a 2cm hem at top
on one cuff edge and edge of each pocket piece.
finish the other raw edge. Finish the other three raw

30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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 WE LOVE STYLE

Masterclass
CHECK IT OUT
Follow our top tips for stitch success when
working with plaid, striped or checked fabric
BEFORE YOU START be placed precisely, so
When buying plaid, checked fold the fabric carefully to
or striped fabric, buy more accommodate this.
than the pattern envelope
suggests, as you will need POSITIONING
extra fabric to be able to Place the pattern pieces on
match the pattern. As a the fabric, considering all of
general rule, 1.5 metres extra the points above, and place
should be enough, but a very matching notches on each
large or uneven plaid may pattern piece on matching
need more. parts of the plaid or stripe,
taking care of straight grain
ASSESS YOUR PRINT lines etc. If you’re matching a
Press your fabric and take print across a sleeve, line up
note of the design – are the underarm point of both
there dominant stripes the bodice pieces and sleeve
within the plaid? Where will at the same part of the print
they fall best on the body?
for the best match.
Dominant stripes need further
consideration – a hem may
fall on a dominant stripe if CUT SINGLE LAYER
you desire, but a curved hem We recommend cutting
cannot, so position curved out the pattern pieces on a
hems accordingly. single layer of fabric, which
can be easier in some ways
CHECK YOUR regarding pattern matching,
PATTERN just remember to flip each
Familiarise yourself with the pattern piece and cut it twice.
edges then fold over template. Tack-stitch in pattern pieces and consider (Alternatively, once you have
each edge by 1cm. Pin place, then top-stitch where to place them on the folded your fabric carefully
in position to the front approximately 3mm fabric. Firstly, think about and evenly, pin it into position
of the dress, following from the edge along the the centring of pieces. A along all the edges, ensuring
the markings on the three folded sides. centre front pattern piece the plaid or stripe design
for example will need to cannot shift during cutting.)

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 new
Learn something Online or face-to-face, workshops
are a fantastic way to pick up new
sewing skills. Here are some of our
favourite classes!

All Stitched Up
At All Stitched Up we’ve been are designed to offer the
working hard planning new opportunity to learn specific
workshops and tweaking our skills, including sashiko,
regular ones, making sure that quilting and machine paper
even if we can’t meet face to piecing and to use existing
face, we can offer some fun skills to make baby shoes and
online. Whether you want to a beach bag, amongst others.
learn a new skill in crochet, We will also be offering our
sewing or knitting, develop new workshop subscription
your skills or just want to service. Email Sarah at
have a bit of crafting fun, we allstitchedupcraftingltd@
have something to suit, we outlook.com to hear about the
even have workshops for latest workshops – we look
non-sewists! forward to welcoming you into
Our new workshops our new world!
Sew Jessalli
Here at Sew Jessalli, we strive workshops which you can
to teach everyone, young and have lifetime access to.
old, how to sew. We love it The first is our Beginner’s
when our students learn a new Sewing Skills, it’s a great way
skill and progress with their for total novices to get into or
creative journey, whilst having back into sewing. It covers all
fun in the process. During this the basics and how to get a
difficult year we had to close great finish on your projects.
our Sewing School, which The second is our popular
pushed us to create some Free Motion Embroidery
online workshops for our Class. If you fancy having
amazing customers.  some creative fun with textiles,
We’ve launched two of our this workshop is definitely
most popular classes as virtual for you!
Book now: www.jessalli.com/online-workshops Book now: www.asufaversham.co.uk
Facebook: SewJessalli Instagram: sew__jessalli Facebook: ASUFaversham

32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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 WORKSHOPS

Material Moves
I’m Carol Eves, a former space above my fabric shop
professional dressmaker in Scarborough. I have a
and a qualified teacher. I range of sewing machines
developed dressmaking to learn on, both digital and
courses suitable for manual, large cutting tables,
beginners in 2012. I provide and all the small tools and
a peaceful and welcoming gadgets needed to complete
environment to small groups sewing projects.
of people of all ages and Upcoming workshops
genders. I‘m here to help include appliqué on 24th
people learn how to make April, three-day workshops
clothes with attention to for beginners on 1st–3rd
body shape, to make clothes May and advanced sewing

Crafty Sew&So that fit, with guidance in

fabric choices, cutting and
techniques over the second
Bank Holiday, 29th–31st
Crafty Sew&So runs online re-watch the playback as sewing techniques and May. I now offer online
sewing workshop for all many times as you need to lots of tips and tricks for a weekly technique classes and
abilities. Our Start as You build your sewing confidence. professional finish. workshops, and hope you
Mean To Sew On Class is We run a range of Learn Live classes take place in can join me for a Kimono-
a must for all new sewists, to Sew classes, ideal for a light, fully equipped studio style robe class on 15th May.
covering everything you beginners and a range of skills
need to know to get started. classes including learning to
You’ll make two fun starter use an overlocker, sewing
projects and pick up tips and with jersey fabric and learning
confidence to start sewing to use dressmaking patterns.
many more! Our live online These are complemented by
workshops allow you to ask our Swatch List monthly fabric
questions and check in with subscription, helping you to
your tutor and fellow learners choose and sew the right
at every step. You can join in fabric for the right project
from anywhere and for you!
Book now: www.craftysewandso.com Book now: www.materialmoves.co.uk Facebook: MaterialMoves
Facebook: craftysewandso Instagram: craftysewandso Instagram: materialmoves Call: 01723 377289

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 WE LOVE STYLE

Top
marksThis floaty top is great for
throwing on with jeans while out
and about or wearing with a pencil
skirt for a dressy occasion
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
SIMPLE SEW

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LS92 SUPP.P35.indd 35 02/03/2021 10:26

 A B

MATERIALS & TOOLS: HOW TO MAKE:

✂ 2.4m lightweight woven fabric 1 Create the bust darts and
✂ 40cm medium-weight interfacing press downwards.
✂ button 2 Join front and back blouse
✂ co-ordinating thread pieces at shoulders RST. Press
✂ templates downloaded from seam open.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 3 Apply interfacing to the
WS of the facings and join
NOTES: at shoulder seams. Press
Seam allowance is 1.5cm unless seam open.
otherwise instructed 4 With RST, attach the facing
to the blouse at neckline RST

CUTTING:
45"-wide fabric
FOLD

60"-wide fabric
FOLD

Shopping list
For a wide range of viscose
fabric, visit www.minerva.com

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 WE LOVE STYLE

C D 9 Join the front and back

Saving
blouse bodice at side seams
RST. (See Pic D.)
 Gather the hem of each
sleeve using a basting stitch
and spread the gathers evenly
FACE
along the width of the sleeve.
(See Pic E.) Choosing the right
 Press the cuff bands WST to interfacing for your fabric
E F mark the fold. can be quite hard some
 Open up one band and times – here are our
place one long edge RST with top tips:
the cuff. Stitch in place using 1 Fuse a piece of your
a small 5mm seam allowance. fabric together with a
(See Pic F.) Turn the cuff band piece of interfacing to see
to the WS, fold under and how they hang together.
hand-stitch in place. If your fabric is very sheer,
 Pin in the sleeve RST inside consider using organza
the bodice, matching the for the facing and skip
using a 1cm seam allowance. inserting it between the facing seams and evenly distributing interfacing the piece.
(See Pic A.) Ease the neckline and the main bodice. Pin in the sleeve around the armhole. 2 Try to buy branded
by snipping into the curves place. Keep a little away from Stitch the sleeve in position, fusibles even if these cost
of the seam allowance the neckline seam (half the removing pins as you go. a little more – they are
where necessary. diameter of the button).  Double-turn the hem of the designed for use at home,
5 Create a button loop to (See Pic C.) blouse and secure with a stitch have better quality glue
the length you require for 7 Stitch around keyhole to finish. and are designed to last!
your button (if different to bias loop (button loop will be 3 If glue dots appear on
pattern piece provided) by sandwiched inside). When the RS of the fabric then
folding the edges of the bias stitched, notch the curved your fusible is too heavy,
inside to make them neat, then seam. Turn facing through to Top tip! so choose a lighter one.
press and top-stitch the edges inside of blouse and press flat. 4 If bubbling has occurred
in place. Sew the shortest 8 Sew the facing to the bodice Use a drapey fabric like viscose, this is due to the cloth
edges together and trim off around the armholes, within double gauze, cotton lawn, being too wet, or the
any excess. (See Pic B.) the seam allowance. Do not silk or satin to create the right fabric underneath
6 Attach the button loop by trim seams. effect for this floaty blouse shrinking.

SIZING:
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

BUST 341⁄2" 361⁄2" 381⁄2" 401⁄2" 421⁄2" 441⁄2" 461⁄2" 481⁄2"

HEM WIDTH 33” 35" 37" 39" 41” 43" 45" 47"

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 Essential stitch
SETTINGS with Claire-Louise Hardie

Zigzag finish Pinking shears finish Topstitched finish Overlocker finish

(WS) (WS)
(WS) (WS)

Hong Kong finish

stitch seam fold over then stitch
French seam first seam allowance only in the ditch
allowance
bias tape

the centre fold

of the first seam
becomes the
outside edge

38 www.lovesewingmag.co.ukfirst seam
allowance

LS92 SUPP.P38.indd 38 02/03/2021 10:27

the centre fold
of the first seam
becomes the
outside edge