Growing Guide Squash

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for both winter and summer squash as well as pumpkin

at a glance
Latin Name: predominantly Cucurbita pepo, maxima & moschata
Sun: Full Life Cycle: Annual Ease of care: Easy
Direct sow or transplant: Direct sow recommended Height: 2 feet (unless trellised)
Vine Length: ‘Bush’ varieties about 2 to 4 feet, ‘vining’ varieties 6+ feet
Container Friendly: not recommended, though possible in 15+ gallon containers
Microgreens: No Sprouts: No

For more than ten thousand years, squash (Cucurbita species) have co-adapted with humans as a delectable food source
(seed, fruit, blossoms, stems) as well as tool source (bowls, ladles, musical instruments). With the greatest diversity cen-
tered in what we now call southern Mexico, twenty species of native Cucurbita are found from the central southern US to
Argentina. “Squash” comes from the Narragansett word askutasquash, roughly translating to “a green thing eaten raw.”

types of squash
Summer vs Winter Squash: Across What’s in a (Latin) Name? Three main
thousands of years, humans have species of squash are easily cultivated in
selected summer squash to grow in short seasons, Cucurbita pepo, maxima and
an astonishing array of colors and moschata. If you’re saving seed, we love you
shapes, from zucchini to patty pan, and keep in mind that all varieties sharing
crookneck to the kousa-style squash a species will cross. Cucurbita pepo has
beloved in the Middle East. In fact, a pentagonal, prickly stem and spans the
all ‘winter’ squash can be harvested diversity of summer squash including zuc-
as ‘summer’ squash and most are chini, patty pan, crookneck styles as well
remarkably delicious! as winter squash from delicata, acorn and
Don’t judge a squash by it’s rind! Color is pumpkin to spaghetti squash and more.
The diversity of winter squash is as a tempting though deceptive way to discern As a whole, C. pepo winter squash tend to
beautiful as it is delectable. Beyond ripeness, since rind color often turns the be delicious straight off the vine though
the broad expressions of color and color of maturity 4+ weeks before maturity they don’t store as long as other species.
size, some winter squash varieties is reached. Honeynut is a fabulous C. maxima has round, thick stems, most
store longer than others, some are exception, finally ripe once all the green commonly known for their buttercup,
rind has turned a deep pumpkin-caramel.
more sweet, others more creamy, hubbard and turban style winter squash.
some were selected for deliciously hulless seeds and oth- Incredibly sweet and creamy, maximas must be cured for their
ers for carving as jack o’lanterns. Enjoy sampling the ex- full flavor to impart and also store the longest of all squash types.
traordinary diversity of winter squash, Friends! C. moschata have round stems more dense than maximas, be-
loved for butternut as well as long island cheese pumpkins, trom-
Bush vs Vine: Most summer squash (plus a few winter boncino squash and cushaw. Moschatas also require curing for
squash) varieties are ‘bush,’ growing only 2 to 3 feet wide their full, glorious flavors to emerge, though they typically store
and tall, their leaves and fruit tending to radiate from a com- only through mid-winter. Friends, there are so many other va-
mon center. Most winter squash (plus a few summer squash) rieties within these species and two more species of Cucurbita,
varieties grow 6+ foot vines with leaves and fruit throughout. beyond these! Enjoy every moment & every bite.

1
sow
Direct Sowing Recommended: Squash thrives most compost so your plants will continue to flower and fruit.
with undisturbed roots, so we always recommend direct If your squash is blossoming and not fruiting, your
sowing squash for the healthiest, most abundant plants. plants are most likely either lacking an essential nutri-
ent to produce fruit or pollination is lacking, which most
How to Transplant (if you must): Transplanting squash often happens in periods of incessant rain. Finally, if you
is totally possible! The key is this: disturb their roots as little love to savor squash blossoms, be sure to enjoy only the
as possible. Large 2-inch soil blocks are best; decomposing pollen-giving flowers rather than pollen-receiving, so
cow pots are second best. Either way, your goal is to trans- you can have your squash and eat it, too.
plant with their first cotyledon leaves ideally, or perhaps a
first true leaf emerging, so plant your seeds no sooner than Days to germ: 7 to 10 days when soil is 70 to 80°F; be-
ten days prior to anticipated final frost. As soon as their first low 60°F, squash seeds often rot rather than germinate.
true leaf is emerging, the chances of their roots being large
enough to be disturbed is high. If sowing into decompos- When: Squash flourishes in the warmth of summer, so
ing pots, soak the pots thoroughly in water (ideally dilute sow your squash directly in the ground around or after
fish emulsion) prior to planting to help them decompose last frost. Here in the Finger Lakes, Zone 5, we typically
faster. Also, be sure to bury the edges of the pot entirely: sow our first squash on Memorial Day. The soil is warm
left above the soil, cow pots easily dry out, wicking mois- enough in most seasons to germinate squash quickly
ture away from the rest of the pot and plant, quickly con- prior to final frost; the limiting factor is covering tender
taining plant roots rather than decomposing. seedlings to protect them if the night temps dip toward
freezing again.
Common mistakes:
Winter squash you’ll plant just once, when the soil is fi-
Sown too early, squash seeds often rot cold soils. Sown
nally warm around final frost.
to close and not thinned, crowded squash grow stressed
resulting in reduced harvests as well as increased disease Summer squash we love to succession sow with the earli-
susceptibility. To encourage abundant fruiting all est planting sown around final frost and the final succes-
season, continue to harvest your summer squash without sion sown about three months before final frost. For us
letting them go to seed. Even if they grow larger than here in Zone 5, our final succession is sown in mid-July.
you’d love to eat, a) consider zucchini bread and b) find Sow anytime in between to enjoy a consistent harvest til
chickens to relish every bite or c) simply toss them in your frost in fall! We aim for three weeks between successions.

Squash is so susceptible to disease


and insect pressure, especially in
humid climates. To prevent disease
& insect damage organically, here
are some keys: Nutrient-dense soil
grows healthy plants with vigorous
immune systems; offer ample space
for airflow, since overcrowded plants
are more susceptible to disease;
water soil rather than leaves in the
morning rather than evening to
reduce leaf humidity. Resist
touching plants that are wet; crop
rotation always helps. Finally,
disease-resistant varieties make
a huge difference, though even
disease-resistant varieties may not
thrive amid poor cultural practices.

2
Spacing within rows:
Bush Squash (most summer & some winter squash): Sow
two seeds (or transplant 1 seedling) every 2 feet, thinning to
the strongest one once cotyledon leaves have emerged.
Vining Squash (most winter & some summer squash): Sow
two seeds (or transplant 1 seedling) every 4 feet, thinning to
the strongest one once cotyledon leaves have emerged.

Spacing between rows: at least 4 feet between bush and 5+


feet between vining varieties

Seeding depth: ½ to 1 inch deep. Squash seed size varies


widely, so keep in mind that most seeds are ideally sown
twice their depth.

Trellising Squash: Yes, you can trellis your vining squash, just
be sure your trellising is seriously strong! Hog paneling is ef-
fective both vertical as well as bent into an arbor, so beautifully
trellising squash, melons, cucumbers, beans & so much more.
If you’re growing a 3 sisters garden, sow your vining winter
squash seeds at the same time you sow your pole beans, 2 to 3
weeks after planting your corn.

Succession sowing: We only plant winter squash once, since


they need the full season to mature.
Summer squash bear their abundance over the course of the Some squash varieties store longer than others; Sibley (on
season, though they tend to succumb to disease and insect left) and Gouda (right) both last well into spring and even
pressure, so many farmers sow multiple successions of summer summer, when cured and stored well.
squash to keep harvesting consistently til frost. Our first sum-
Companion planting: The large & vining ar-
mer squash succession is sown around final frost and the final
chitecture as well as disease susceptibility of squash
succession sown about three months before final frost. For us
makes it challenging to grow in proximity with other
here in Zone 5, our final succession is sown in mid-July. Sow
plants, though 3 Sisters Gardens (planting flour/pop-
anytime in between to enjoy a consistent harvest til frost in
corn with dry pole beans and vining winter squash)
fall! We aim for three to four weeks between successions.
brilliantly thrive together. Also, in all that open space
Since squash is so prone to diseases like powdery and downy once seeds are sown, feel free to grow baby greens
mildew, sowing varieties with innate disease resistance often between your freshly sown squash to harvest before
amplifies the abundance of later successions. the viney, spiney canopy closes.

cultivate
Soil: Sow squash in full sun with loose, fertile and moist Weeding: As with all direct-seeded crops, it’s impor-
yet well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. tant to stay on top of weeding as plants are emerging to
give seedlings the chance to grow without competition.
As with all crops, be sure to test your soil, if you haven’t
Once plants are established and won’t be hindered by it,
in the last year; our Soil Testing Made Simple blog will
mulching is an excellent way to reduce weed pressure
set you up for success!
while retaining moisture. We also love to transplant
squash from soil blocks into beautifully mulched beds
Thinning: Once true leaves emerge, thin to the stron-
with straw or biotella, which helps warm the soil.
gest single plant every 2 feet for bush and every 4 feet
for vining squash.

3
Pests: Here in the Northeast, we have three main ‘pest’ insects
to scout for in our squash.
First, the Cucumber Beetle is one of the most common as well as
cumbersome creatures to find in your cucurbits, including melons
and cucumbers as well as all squash. Long, narrow and lemon yellow
with black stripes (and occasionally spots), their feeding on every part
of your squash is bad enough but the bacterial wilt they vector can
significantly decrease and even destroy your abundance. Covering
your cucurbits with hoops and floating row cover as soon as you sow
or transplant is a great way to organically protect your plants from
Cucumber beetles. Remove the row cover only to weed and be sure to
remove the cover as soon as they flower so pollination isn’t hindered.
As soon as you remove the row cover, cucumber beetles will come
swarming in but the full-sized plants will be resilient enough to ma-
ture fruit abundantly nonetheless. Dive into our blog, The Good News
(& Bad) About Cucumber Beetles for more info and insight.
Second, the Squash Vine Borer (Melitta curcurbitae) is a great
moth to become familiar with because yes, they’re beautiful.
The best way to thwart the Squash Vine Borer is to Also, they’re one of the most devastating insects in your gar-
‘starve it out’ by resisting sowing any C. pepo or den. Squash Vine Borers make their home in the base of your
maxima species for three years. Thankfully squash plants, devouring their soft marrow before killing their
‘Tromboncino’ is C. moschata and a delectable host. They’re particularly fond of any Cucurbita pepo plant as
summer squash in the meantime! well as maximas, which includes all manner of zucchini, sum-
mer and pattypan squash in addition to pumpkins, acorn, spa-
Feeding: As with all ‘heavy feeding’ plants, ghetti, delicata, buttercup, hubbard squash and more. Though
there is a direct relationship between the quality challenging to manage, it’s far from impossible and hop on
and quantity of nutrients a plant receives and the over to our blog: The Dreaded Squash Vine Borer & How to Still
quality and quantity of abundance you’ll har- Enjoy Zucchini All Season Long for the full story.
vest. We love to incorporate compost as well as
our soil-building slow release organic fertilizer Finally, many people will proclaim, “Stink Bug!” when they
when we prepare the soil. As with all plants in see Gray Squash Bugs ambling about on their zucchini. Indeed,
our gardens, we foliar feed our squash every two they are ‘true’ bugs and the stink is real when they’re crushed.
weeks to surround them with all the nutrients Gray Squash Bugs are close relatives of the resident ‘stink bugs’
they need to grow healthy and abundant. Dilute in your home. Both nymph and adult Gray Squash Bugs suck
fish emulsion, compost tea and worm castings the sweet vascular fluids of your squash stems, simultaneously
tea are all excellent sources of organic fertility as secreting highly toxic saliva into the plant. A few Gray Squash
both foliar feed and root drenching. Bugs won’t make a tremendous impact but unchecked, their
populations will quickly balloon out of control, sometimes sig-
Containers: Squash and other ‘heavy feeding’ nificantly reducing your harvest. Enjoy our blog 5 Easy Strate-
crops like brussels sprouts and garlic will grow gies to Thwart Your Gray Squash Bugs for the deep dive.
in nutrient-rich 15+ gallon containers though it’s
rare that they thrive. If you are growing squash Cucumber beetles
are beautiful,
in containers, bush varieties are more abundant
ravenous and,
than vining varieties. Be sure to fill your con-
sigh, transmit
tainer with nutrient dense, slow-release fertility
bacterial wilt.
and foliar feed with fish emulsion or compost tea Squish them
to keep your plants healthy and abundant. when you
Grow just one squash in the center with quick- see them!
growing cut-and-come-again greens and herbs Cover your
along the outer edge of the container. Enjoy our squash with hoops
free 8 Keys of Container Gardening Mini-Course and floating row
for more tips like this! As squash abundance cover to exclude
wanes, your plants are hungry. them, as well.

4
Blossom-End Rot is another fairly common malady in squash, though it is a nutrient deficiency rather than disease.
Just like blossom-end rot in tomatoes, calcium is the limiting factor which in effect is a water deficiency:
calcium is such a large ion that significant water is required for its uptake.
Diseases:
Powdery mildew is one of the most common diseases affecting squash Here are the easiest ways to prevent
in the Northeast. A fungal disease, affected plants often look as if their disease in all plants: Nutrient-dense
leaves have been dusted with powdered sugar (below). There are a soil grows healthy plants with vigorous
number of anecdotal ways to manage powdery mildew once it arrives, immune systems; overcrowded plants
though we find prevention is the best cure. are more susceptible to disease; water
soil rather than leaves in the morning
Other common squash diseases in the Northeast include Bacterial wilt,
rather than evening to reduce leaf hu-
Downy mildew, fusarium wilt and phytophthora.
midity. Resist touching plants that are
Blossom-End Rot is another fairly common malady in squash, though wet; crop rotation always helps. Finally,
it is a nutrient deficiency rather than disease. Just like blossom-end rot disease-resistant varieties make a huge
in tomatoes, calcium is the limiting factor which in effect is a water difference, though even disease-resis-
deficiency: calcium is such a large ion that significant water is required tant varieties may not thrive with cul-
for its uptake. If you have blossom end rot in either tomatoes or squash, tural practices.
compost the affected fruit and be sure to offer your plants ample water as
well as abundant nutrients. It may take a week or two for your plants to Season Extension: Squash is quite
recover, so be hopeful as well as vigilant and patient. cold-sensitive, so it’s best to plant your
harvests such that your abundance will
mature well before frost. That being
said, if a frost as well as your harvest
is imminent, bedsheets thrown over to
protect from frost overnight and heavy
floating row cover over hoops will ex-
tend their abundance, as well.

There are lots of anecdotal ways to treat pow-


dery mildew (left), though we find prevention
is the best cure for most diseases and mildew
is no exception. Also, even as your plants are
suffering from mildew, if they’re at all green
they’re still photosynthesizing, continue to let
them send those sugars to your developing
fruit. And did you know the rind of delicata
squash is delicious? We love to slice them
into rings and roast them, skin and all!

5
harvest
The number of days from How to Harvest: Once
sowing to harvest varies your plants are quite thor-
widely by the variety, so pay oughly dead and/or it’s
attention to variety descrip- about to frost, we harvest
tions. Also, ‘days to matu- each fruit by snipping
rity’ or ‘days to harvest’ are each stem 1” from the
estimations: Variables such fruit, handling them care-
a temperature, water and fully, as if they were mar-
available nutrients dramati- velously large easter eggs,
cally affect days to harvest. which perhaps they are.

Summer squash has an im- How to Cure: Very few


pressively wide window of winter squash are delicious
harvest both throughout the straight from the vine,
season and on the plant. Here with delicata and acorn
in Zone 5 we often harvest as exquisite exceptions.
summer squash from early Most other winter squash
Tromboncino, the Italian trombone squash, deliciously
July through frost. From are much sweeter & more
resistant to squash vine borer! An abundant and ebullient
miniature squash with a fresh summer squash, we harvest when the neck is the diameter of creamy when ‘cured’ in a
blossom wide open to a large, a banana for peak flavor. Tromboncino has fabulously large warm (80°F is the dream)
plump squash with skin a squash blossoms for stuffing, as well! Trellised fruits grow place with plenty of air-
fingernail can still press into, straight while the fruits along the ground spiral exquisitely. flow for at least one week,
summer squash is delectable effectively ‘shrink-wrap-
at a wider range than supermarkets imagine. And Friends, ping’ as well as deepening their flavor for long-term storage.
don’t be afraid of ‘over-size’ summer squash: we love to grill Your kitchen counter will do a surprisingly excellent job of
and bake zucchini bread with summer squash up until the curing your squash, though a full cure may take several
seeds are starting to harden, separating from the inner flesh. weeks rather than one. Also, the flavor of some varieties, like
To encourage your summer squash to abundantly fruit all Sibley, may take a few months in storage to fully develop.
season, continue to harvest your summer squash without
letting them go to seed. Even if they grow larger than How to Store: Squash store the longest at 50 to 55°F at 55 to
you’d love to eat, a) consider zucchini bread and b) find 75% relative humidity, ideally in a single layer, to whatever de-
chickens to relish every bite or c) simply toss them in your gree possible. Some winter squash only store a short time even
compost so your plants will continue to flower and fruit. in optimal storage conditions, like delicata & honeynut: if we
enjoy these on New Years, we consider ourselves fortunate. Oth-
Winter squash needs all season to mature and thus has a ers are consistently stored through spring & even summer, like
much narrower window of harvest, though how you har- Sibley (the hubbard’s cousin) who we met sitting resplendent in
vest makes all the difference for how your squash will store. the center of Patrice Fortier’s dining room table along the north-
ern St. Lawrence in late June. No matter how careful you are, it’s
When to Harvest? Winter squash mature about 60 days af- inevitable that some of your winter squash will store longer than
ter a flower is pollinated; here in Zone 5, it’s uncommon to others. Turn your squash every few weeks as they store and enjoy
harvest fully mature winter squash until mid-September at any fruit with soft spots promptly. Savor the deliciously protein-
the earliest. We wait to harvest as long as possible before frost rich seeds as you scoop them out & enjoy our 3 Things to do with
because, even with powdery mildew often drenching the your Winter Squash Seeds blog for insight as well as inspiration.
leaves,​​if there is any green in the leaves & stems that means
sugars are being photosynthesized & sent into each fruit. Squash blossoms are utterly delectable! Since all squash
have separate pollen-giving and pollen-receiving blossoms
Of Ripeness & Rind Color: It’s true, the skin color is on each plant, be sure you’re only eating pollen-giving
tempting, though deceptive, because rind color often turns flowers so you’re not sacrificing the fruit itself. They’re
the color of maturity 4+ weeks before maturity is reached. easy to tell apart: The pollen-receiving blossom has a tiny
Honeynut, with their built-in ripeness indicator, is a fabu- zucchini, butternut or whatever other squash you’re grow-
lous exception! Honeynut is finally ripe once all the green ing at their base. The pollen-giving flower is simply on a
has turned a deep pumpkin-caramel color. narrow stalk rather than any kind of fruit.

6
seed saving
Self or cross-pollinated: Life cycle: Annual
Cross-pollinated up to
one mile Wet or dry seeded: Wet

What’s in a (Latin) When to harvest:


Name? All varieties shar- Ripe, fully mature win-
ing a species will cross ter squash is full of ripe,
with each other. For ex- fully mature seeds.
ample, all Cucurbita pepo
varieties will cross up to Seed Cleaning Notes:
one mile, including zuc- Removing squash seeds
chini, patty pan, crook- from their fibrous, slip-
neck, delicata, acorn, pery pulp is deceptively
pumpkin and spaghetti simple! Submerging it
squash. You’ll find Latin all in water and separat-
names on all of Frui- ing by hand is often the
tion’s packets as well as Though squash brilliantly pollinate each other, hand-pollination is easiest way to clean the
our website. Keeping all a fun way to ensure your squash are fully pollinating in extended seeds. Rinse them thor-
your pepos from crossing rainy periods and/or if you’re concerned about a lack of pollinators. oughly, so none of the
is often the hardest part ofAlso, hand-pollination is a fabulous way to make your own crosses residual sugars remain
saving winter squash seed. and cultivate even greater diversity in the world! on the seed coat and dry
them as quickly as pos-
Hand-Pollination is both possible and fun! Dive into sible! Warmth is key to drying seeds though heat over
our 7 Steps for Hand-Pollinating Your Own Squash blog 90°F can be detrimental. Gentle, steady airflow also helps
for the full story. seeds dry quickly without damaging them.

Qualities to select for: First and always, flavor! We also Seed storage & viability: Stored in optimum condi-
love to select for earliness, abundance, creamy flesh texture, tions, squash seeds hold their germination for 5 years and
rind color and shape, disease resistance and plant architec- often longer. Enjoy our Secrets of Seed Storage blog for
ture. What else is important for you, Friend? Select for it! more tips, including keys if you’re freezing seeds.

best of the blog


7 Seeds to Resist Transplanting
6 Easy Seeds to Direct Sow in June (& How to Transplant, If You Must)
Timing is Everything: Fruition’s Seed Starting Calendar
Successful Succession Sowing in July
The Good News (& Bad) About Cucumber Beetles
The Dreaded Squash Vine Borer & How to Still Enjoy Zucchini All Season Long
5 Easy Strategies to Thwart Your Gray Squash Bugs
7 Steps for Hand-Pollinating Your Own Squash
When to Harvest & How to Cure Winter Squash
3 Things to do with your Winter Squash Seeds
Enjoy our Seed Starting Academy for step-by-step video tutorials to surround you with abundance.

Insight & inspiration daily! FruitionSeeds @fruition_seeds

7
our varieties: Bush Summer Squash
Organic Organic Haifa’s
Cocozelle Finest Zucchini
Zucchini Where do we begin?
HEIRLOOM We love The flavor, the story,
Cocozelle’s light green the abundance or the
stripes on the classic near spinelessness? If
Italian green zucchini, you don’t have time for
evidence of Costata Ro- it all, know this: We
manesco in her parent- are so thankful for the
age. As a result, Cocoz- countless generations of
elle’s flavor soars above humans and plants co-
average and Friends, we’ve been saving seeds for nearly evolving to lay the foundation for Fruition to collaborate
a decade of the plants that have the fewest spines and the with a regional organic farm and land-grant university
most open architecture, making her abundant harvest to co-create the most flavorful zucchini we’ve ever eaten.
that much more joyful for everyone involved! Imagine exceptional nuttiness with a creamy density that
melts in your mouth — you won’t be tossing these in
Organic neighbor’s mailboxes, we suspect.
Patisson
Organic
Panache Green
Success PM
& Yellow
Summer Squash
Summer Squash If you struggle with pow-
HEIRLOOM A beloved
dery mildew, a) you’re
French heirloom de-
not alone and b) this is
lectable both young as
the summer squash for
summer squash or ma-
you! Deliciously smooth
ture as winter squash!
and straight yellow sum-
Their flavor as summer
mer squash, Success PM
squash is notably more sweet and nutty compared to clas-
is abundant longer into
sic zucchini with a fine, firm texture that we love on the
the season than most thanks to her resistance to powdery
grill. We are also impressed with the sheer abundance on
mildew. Success PM also has strong non-preference of cu-
each compact plant, even in containers.
cumber beetles in Cornell’s squash trails, as well.

our varieties: Vining Summer Squash


Organic Tromboncino
HEIRLOOM The Italian trombone squash, deliciously resistant to squash vine borer!
We love Tromboncino Squash as an abundant and ebullient summer squash; we har-
vest when her neck is the diameter of a banana for peak flavor. Tromboncino has fabu-
lously large squash blossoms for stuffing, as well! Trellised fruits grow straight while
the fruits along the ground spiral exquisitely.
As a massive winter squash, Tromboncino is endlessly impressive to feast our eyes
upon though her flesh is more watery and less sweet than classic butternut, so nothing
to write home about. That being said, we enjoy her nonetheless! Our favorite way to
prepare mature Tromboncino is to slice the neck into large, thin coins to roast with
plenty of oil, salt and pepper to make delightful Tromboncino ‘chips’ for snacking or
hilarious sandwiches.

8
our varieties: Vining Winter Squash
Organic Organic
Burgess Delicata
Buttercup HEIRLOOM Luscious-
HEIRLOOM If you like ly sweet and perfectly
sweet potatoes, you’ll sized for the plate, deli-
love the incredibly sweet cata also has thin, delec-
and lusciously creamy table skin making sup-
Burgess Buttercup! She’s per deliciously simple.
impressively prolific and Delicata is always the
her abundance, well- first we savor and though
cured, will surround you most winter squash only
’til spring. A little secret: Our pumpkin pies are generally becomes sweet after curing, delicata is sweet right out
Burgess Buttercup. Give them a try and enjoy every bite! of the field. Alas, no matter how well delicata is grown,
harvested and cured, she only stores a few months, so
savor her before New Years and enjoy every bite!
Organic
Honeynut
We loveLOVElove Hon- Organic Gouda
eynut! Super sweet and After years of appreciat-
lusciously creamy, Hon- ing Long Island Cheese
eynut is the length of a pumpkin, we instantly
spoon, each fruit averag- fell in love with Gouda,
ing less than one pound. her little sister. Gouda is
With plenty of fertility, also much sweeter as well
you’ll easily harvest 5+ as resistant to powdery
Honeynut from each mildew, HOORAY! If
plant. She loves to climb & the dangling fruit are darling you struggle with squash
to watch ripen all summer! You’ll know Honeynut is ripe vine borers, you’ll be re-
when all her green stripes have finally turned caramel lieved to know that Gou-
bronze; most squash skin turns the color of maturity sev- da is Cucurbita moschata rather than C.pepo, so those vora-
eral weeks before the fruit is, in fact, ripe. Honeynut is cious borers are less attracted to the thinner, less succulent
the only squash we know that has this remarkable quality. vines. Gouda is also a fantastic storage squash; we consis-
There are just so many reasons to love Honeynut! tently are making pies in April, in awe of her tenacity.

Organic Sibley
HEIRLOOM Had we Our favorite recipes
but one winter squash
to grow, Sibley would
be the one. Her flavor Grilled Zucchini
is magnificent, texture Zucchini Involtini
sublime, productiv-
ity off the charts and we Kousa Mashi
enjoy them consistently Roasted Winter Squash
through the follow-
ing summer. Her 5 to Stuffed Winter Squash
8-pound baby blue fruits
have been lifted up by the Slow Food Ark of Taste, just be
Curry Winter Squash Soup
sure she’s well cured and then don’t invite her to supper ’til Pumpkin Pie
January! Her flavors deepen and sweeten with time and
Friends, it is so worth the wait.

9
our varieties: Bush Winter Squash
Organic Organic
Bush Intersectionality
Delicata Hulless Acorn
Delicata Each lusciously sweet acorn squash
squash is di- is filled with delectably hulless con-
vine though fectionary-style seeds, packed with
the long, protein & fondly called pepitas. The
sprawling best of both worlds! In the 1980s,
vines of full- Kimberlé Crenshaw coined the term
size winter ‘intersectionality’ to describe the
squash can unique oppression of African-Amer-
make it difficult to grow in small garden ican women. This squash honors the vulnerability and courage of our
spaces, raised beds and container gardens. sisters as well as the extraordinary capacity of all of us to believe in
Bush Delicata to the rescue! We’re thrilled to seeds and indeed, be the seeds of healing, transformation and vitality.
share this seed, growing to the marvelously Rather than a sprawling vine, Intersectionality is early maturing on
manageable size of a zucchini. Bush Delicata a compact bush thriving in gardens and raised beds as well as large
also has resistance to Powdery Mildew mak- containers with plenty of fertility. Similar to Delicata, acorns are de-
ing your harvest that much more abundant. licious right off the vine in September, unlike most winter squash re-
Bush Delicata is always our first winter squash quiring curing to draw out their depth of flavor. Enjoyed before the
to ripen with heavenly flesh is surrounded by New Year, even the skin is edible! In a world needing us to see our
thin, delectable skin. Enjoy every bite! interdependence as nourishing, may Intersectionality teach us the
delicious possibilities of growing ourselves as well as our gardens.

our varieties: Pumpkin


Organic Organic
Jack Straw Winter Luxury
Jack Straw is the classic HEIRLOOM If you’re
jack o’ lantern pump- hunting for a pie pump-
kin with a solid handle, kin, Winter Luxury is
easy to grow with pow- the finest we’ve found.
dery mildew to make Her abundant flesh is
sure you have glorious smooth and sweet, espe-
pumpkins for the fall! cially compared to most
We love Jack Straw for pie pumpkins. Each five
their whimsical diver- to six-pound pumpkin is
sity, as well. With boisterous pumpkins 8 to 14” tall with perfect for two pies and I confess, we always hesitate to
a satisfyingly smooth, oblong shape, each one is unique, admire her gorgeous silver lattice before we turn her into
easy to carve and we hope that you do! the oven.

Preserving the harvest: We often grill and freeze summer squash when we find ourselves inundated, adding
it to soups all winter long. Though winter squash stores itself quite brilliantly, it’s puree freezes quite nicely for soups
and pies all winter, as well. Dehydrated winter squash is also a treat our dogs definitely don’t turn down.

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