Design of Aquaponic Units

35
4. Design of aquaponic units
This chapter discusses the theory and design of aquaponic systems. There are many
design aspects to take into consideration, as virtually all environmental and biological
factors will have an impact on the aquaponic ecosystem. The aim of this chapter is to
present these aspects in the most accessible way and to provide a thorough explanation
of each component within an aquaponic unit.
Section 4.1 discusses the factors to consider when selecting a site for an aquaponic
unit, including access to sunlight, wind and rain exposure, average temperature and
others. Section 4.2 discusses the general aquaponic components essential for any
method of aquaponics, including the fish tank, water and air pumps, the biofilter,
the plant growing method and associated plumbing materials. The hydroponic
component is then discussed in further detail, focusing on the three most common
methods used in aquaponics: the media bed method (Figures 4.1–4.5); the nutrient
film technique (NFT) method (Figures 4.6–4.9); and the deep water culture (DWC)
method (Figures 4.10–4.13).
Method Abbreviation Other names Name of planting area Section
Deep water culture DWC floating raft canal, trough 4.3
Nutrient film technique NFT pipe, gutter 4.4
Media bed n/a particulate bed, tray 4.5
FIGURE 4.1
Illustration of a small media bed unit
Fish tank Sump Plant growing area
A specific section then presents a particular type of DWC with low stocking density.
A final summary table of each method is provided in order to compare and contrast
these three methods.
This chapter is intended only to explain the essential unit components and different
methods of aquaponics. For more information regarding the sizing and design ratios
for different unit components, please see Chapter 8, which provides the more detailed
information, figures and design plans needed to actually design and construct small-
scale aquaponic units. In addition, Appendix 8 gives a full step-by-step guide to
building a small-scale version of the three methods explained in this chapter using
materials widely available.
36 Small-scale aquaponic food production – Integrated fish and plant farming
FIGURE 4.2
Example of a newly assembled media bed unit using intermediate bulk containers
FIGURE 4.3 FIGURE 4.5

Taro (Colocasia esculenta) plants growing in a A media bed unit planted with chili pepper
semi-commercial media bed unit constructed in (Capsicum spp.)
wood and lined with polyethylene liner
FIGURE 4.4
Lush vegetable growth in a backyard media
bed unit
Design of aquaponic units 37
FIGURE 4.6
Illustration of a small nutrient film technique unit
Fish tank Filters Plant growing area

Parsley (Petroselinum sp.) growing in a small Farmers tending young tomato plants in a
nutrient film technique unit nutrient film technique unit. Net cups are made
from recycled plastic bottles with holes in the
bottom
FIGURE 4.9
A nutrient film technique unit using vertical space
FIGURE 4.10
Illustration of a small deep water culture unit

Lettuce plants growing in a deep water Multiple varieties of lettuce plants growing in a
culture unit deep water culture unit
FIGURE 4.13
Roots of curly kale (Brassica sp.) growing in a
deep water culture unit
4.1 Site selection

Site selection is an important aspect that must be considered before installing an
aquaponic unit. This section generally refers to aquaponic units built outdoors without
a greenhouse. However, there are brief comments about greenhouses and shading
net structures for larger units. It is important to remember that some of the system’s
components, especially the water and stone media, are heavy and hard to move, so it
is worth building the system in its final location. Selected sites should be on a surface
that is stable and level, in an area that is protected from severe weather but exposed to
substantial sunlight.
4.1.1 Stability
Be sure to choose a site that is stable and level. Some of the major components of an
aquaponic system are heavy, leading to the potential risk of the legs of the system
sinking into the ground. This can lead to disrupted water flow, flooding or catastrophic
collapse. Find the most level and solid ground available. Concrete slabs are suitable, but
do not allow any components to be buried, which can lead to tripping hazards. If the
system is built on soil, it is useful to grade the soil and put down material to mitigate
weeds. In addition, place concrete or cement blocks under the legs of the grow beds
to improve stability. Stone chips are often used to level and stabilize soil locations.
Moreover, it is important to place the fish tanks on a base; this will help to provide
stability, protect the tank, allow for plumbing and drains on the tank bottom, and
thermally isolate it from the ground.
4.1.2 Exposure to wind, rain and snow

FIGURE 4.14
Extreme environmental conditions can stress Deep water culture system damaged by snow
plants and destroy structures (Figure 4.14).
Strong prevailing winds can have a considerable
negative impact on plant production and can
cause damage to stems and reproductive parts.
In addition, strong rain can harm the plants and
damage unprotected electrical sockets. Large
amounts of rain can dilute the nutrient-rich
water, and can flood a system if no overflow
mechanism is integrated into the unit. Snow
causes the same problems as heavy rain, with the
added threat of cold damage. It is recommended
that the system be located in a wind-protected
zone. If heavy rains are common, it may be
worth protecting the system with a plastic-lined
hoop house, although this may not be necessary
in all locations.
4.1.3 Exposure to sunlight and shade

Sunlight is critical for plants, and as such, the
plants need to receive the optimum amount of
sunlight during the day. Most of the common
plants for aquaponics grow well in full sun conditions; however, if the sunlight is
too intense, a simple shade structure can be installed over the grow beds. Some light-
sensitive plants, including lettuce, salad greens and some cabbages, will bolt in too
much sun, go to seed and become bitter and unpalatable. Other tropical plants adapted
to the jungle floor such as turmeric and certain ornamentals can exhibit leaf burn when
exposed to excessive sun, and they do better with some shade. On the other hand, with
insufficient sunlight, some plants can have slow growth rates. This situation can be
avoided by placing the aquaponic unit in a sunny location. If a shady area is the only
location available, it is recommended that shade-tolerant species be planted.
Systems should be designed to take advantage of the sun travelling from east to
west through the sky. Generally, the grow beds should be spatially arranged such that
the longest side is on a north–south axis. This makes the most efficient use of the sun
during the day. Alternatively, if less light is preferable, orient the beds, pipes and canals
following the east–west axis. Also consider where and when there are shadows that cross
FIGURE 4.15
the chosen site. Be careful in the arrangement of
Shade material (blue) filtering sunlight in the plants such that they do not inadvertently shade
fish tank one another. However, it is possible to use tall,
sun-loving plants to shade low, light-sensitive
plants from intense afternoon sun by placing the
tall plants to the west or by alternating the two
in a scattered distribution.
Unlike the plants, the fish do not need direct
sunlight. In fact, it is important for the fish tanks
to be in the shade. Normally, the fish tanks are
covered with a removable shading material that is
placed on top of the tank (Figure 4.15). However,
where possible, it is better to isolate the fish
tanks using a separate shading structure. This
will prevent algae growth (see Chapter 3) and
will help to maintain a stable water temperature
during the day. It is also worth preventing
leaves and organic debris from entering the fish
tanks, as the decaying leaf matter can stain the
water, affect water chemistry and clog pipes.
Either locate the system away from overhanging
vegetation or keep the tank covered with a
screen. Moreover, fish tanks are vulnerable to predators. Using shade netting, tarps or
other screening over the fish tanks will prevent all of these threats.
4.1.4 Utilities, fences and ease of access

In site selection, it is important to consider the availability of utilities. Electric outlets
are needed for water and air pumps. These outlets should be shielded from water and
equipped with a residual-current device (RCD) to reduce the risk of electrical shock;
RCD adaptors can be purchased from standard hardware stores. Moreover, the water
source should be easily accessible, whether it is municipal water or rain collection units.
Similarly, consider where any effluent from the system would go. Although extremely
water efficient, aquaponic systems occasionally require water changes, and filters and
clarifiers need to be rinsed. It is convenient to have some soil plants located nearby that
would benefit from this water. The system should be located where it is easy for daily
access because frequent monitoring and daily feeding are required. Finally, consider
if it is necessary to fence the entire section. Fences are sometimes required to prevent
theft and vandalism, animal pests and for some food safety regulations.
4.1.5 Special considerations: rooftop

FIGURE 4.16
aquaponics
A small media bed unit on a rooftop
Flat rooftops are often suitable sites for
aquaponics because they are level, stable,
exposed to sunlight and are not already used
for agriculture (Figures 4.16–4.18). However,
when building a system on a rooftop it is crucial
to consider the weight of the system, and
whether or not the roof is capable of supporting
it. It is essential to consult with an architect
or civil engineer before building a rooftop
system. In addition, be sure that materials can
be transported both safely and effectively to the
rooftop site.

Multiple aquaponic systems on a rooftop Variety of vegetables growing on a rooftop in
nutrient film technique systems
4.1.6 Greenhouses and shading net structures

Greenhouses are not essential for small-scale aquaponic units, yet they may be useful in
extending the growing season in some regions (Figures 4.19 and 4.20). This is particularly
true in temperate and other cooler regions around the world, as greenhouses can be
used to maintain a warm water temperature during the cold months, thereby allowing
year-round production.
A greenhouse is a metal, wood or plastic frame structure that is covered by
transparent nylon, plastic or glass. The purpose of this structure is to allow sunlight
(solar radiation) to enter the greenhouse and then trap it so it begins heating the air
inside the greenhouse. As the sun begins to set, the heat is retained in the greenhouse
by the roof and walls, allowing for a warmer and more stable air temperature during
a 24-hour period. Greenhouses provide general environmental protection from wind,
snow and heavy rain. Greenhouses extend the growing season by retaining ambient
solar heat, but can also be heated from within. Greenhouses can keep away animals
and other pests, and serve as some security against theft. Greenhouses are comfortable
to work in during colder seasons, and provide the grower with protection from the
weather. Greenhouse frames can be used to support climbing plants or to hang shade
material. Together, these advantages of a greenhouse result in higher productivity and
in an extended cropping season.
However, these benefits need to be balanced against the drawbacks of greenhouses. The
initial capital costs for a greenhouse can be high depending on the degree of technology and
sophistication desired. Greenhouses also require additional operating costs because fans are
needed to create air circulation to prevent overheating and overly humid conditions. Some

Small aquaponic units in a greenhouse Newly assembled aquaponic units in a greenhouse
FIGURE 4.21
diseases and insect pests are more common in
Net house structure to house a small aquaponic unit greenhouses and need to be managed accordingly
(i.e. use of insect nets on doors and windows),
although the confined environment can favour the
use of certain pest controls.
In some tropical regions, net houses are more
appropriate than conventional greenhouses
covered with polyethylene plastic or glass
(Figure 4.21). This is because the hot climates
in the tropics or subtropics raise the need for
better ventilation to avoid high temperatures
and humidity. Net houses consist of a frame over
the grow beds that is covered with mesh netting
along the four walls and a plastic roof over the
top. The plastic roof is particularly important
to prevent rain from entering, especially in areas with intense rainy seasons, as units
could overflow in a matter of days. Net houses are used to remove the threat of many
noxious pests associated with the tropics, as well as birds and larger animals. The ideal
mesh size for the four walls depends on the local pests. For large insects, the mesh size
should be 0.5 mm. For smaller ones, which are often vectors of viral diseases, the mesh
size should be thicker (i.e. mesh 50). Net houses can provide some shade if the sunlight
is too intense. Common shade materials vary from 25 to 60 percent sunblock.
4.2 Essential components of an aquaponic unit

All aquaponic systems share several common and essential components. These include:
a fish tank, a mechanical filter, a biofilter, and hydroponic containers. All systems use
energy to circulate water through pipes and plumbing while aerating the water. As
introduced above, there are three main designs of the plant growing areas including:
grow beds, grow pipes and grow canals. This section discusses the mandatory
components, including the fish tanks, mechanical filter, biofilter, plumbing and pumps.
The following sections are dedicated to the separate hydroponic techniques, and a
comparison is made to determine the most appropriate combination of techniques for
different circumstances.
4.2.1 Fish tank

Fish tanks are a crucial component in every unit. As such, fish tanks can account for up
to 20 percent of the entire cost of an aquaponic unit. Fish require certain conditions in
order to survive and thrive, and therefore the fish tank should be chosen wisely. There
are several important aspects to consider, including the shape, material and colour.
Tank shape
Although any shape of fish tank will work, round tanks with flat bottoms are
recommended. The round shape allows water to circulate uniformly and transports
solid wastes towards the centre of the tank by centripetal force. Square tanks with flat
bottoms are perfectly acceptable, but require more active solid-waste removal. Tank
shape greatly affects water circulation, and it is quite risky to have a tank with poor
circulation. Artistically shaped tanks with non-geometric shapes with many curves
and bends can create dead spots in the water with no circulation. These areas can
gather wastes and create anoxic, dangerous conditions for the fish. If an odd-shaped
tank is to be used, it may be necessary to add water pumps or air pumps to ensure
proper circulation and remove the solids. It is important to choose a tank to fit the
characteristics of the aquatic species reared because many species of bottom dwelling
fish show better growth and less stress with adequate horizontal space.
Material
Either strong inert plastic or fibreglass is recommended because of their durability and
long life span. Metal is not possible because of rust. Plastic and fibreglass are convenient
to install (also for plumbing) and are fairly light and manoeuvrable. Animal-watering
troughs are commonly used, as they tend to be cheap. If using plastic containers, make
sure that they are UV-resistant because direct sunlight can destroy plastic. In general,
low-density polyethylene (LDPE) tanks are preferable because of their high resistance
and food-grade characteristics. Indeed, LDPE is the most commonly used material
for water storage tanks for civil uses. Another option is an in-ground pond. Natural
ponds are very difficult to manage for aquaponics because the natural biological
processes, already occurring within the substrate and mud at the bottom, can be hard
to manipulate and the nutrients are often already used by aquatic plants. Cement
or plastic-lined ponds are much more acceptable, and can be an inexpensive option.
In-ground ponds can make plumbing operations difficult, and the plumbing design
should be carefully considered before embarking on this option. One of the simplest
fish tanks is a hole dug in the ground, lined with bricks or cinderblocks, and then lined
with a waterproof liner such as polyethylene plastic. Other options include second-
hand containers, such as bathtubs, barrels or intermediate bulk containers (IBCs). It is
very important to make sure the container has not been used previously to store toxic
material. Contaminants, such as solvent-borne chemicals, will have penetrated into the
porous plastic itself and are impossible to remove with washing. Thus, choose used
containers carefully, and know the seller if possible.
Colour
White or other light colours are strongly advised
FIGURE 4.22
as they allow easier viewing of the fish in order to A 1 000 litre fish tank made from a white
easily check behaviour and the amount of waste polyethylene drum
settled at the bottom of the tank (Figures 4.22–
4.24). White tanks will also reflect sunlight and
keep the water cool. Alternatively, the outside
of darker coloured tanks can be painted white.
In very hot or cold areas, it may be necessary to
further thermally insulate the tanks.
Covers and shading

All fish tanks should be covered. The shade
covers prevent algal growth. In addition, the
covers prevent fish from jumping out (often
occurs with newly added fish or if water quality
is sub-optimal), prevent leaves and debris from FIGURE 4.23
entering, and prevent predators such as cats and Young fish in a cylindrical aquaponic tank. Return
birds from attacking the fish. Often, agricultural line (top) and bottom drain clearly visible
shading nets that block 80–90 percent of sunlight
are used. The shade cloth can be attached to a
simple wooden frame to provide weight and
make the cover easy to remove.
Failsafe and redundancy

Do not let the fish tank lose its water; fish
will die if the fish tank accidentally drains.
Although some accidents are unavoidable (e.g. a
tree falling on the tank), most catastrophic fish
kills are the result of human error. Ensure that
there is no way for the tank to drain without a

FIGURE 4.24
Two large (1 000 litre each) rectangular fish tanks deliberate choice by the operator. If the water
holding separate cohorts of juvenile fish pump is located in the fish tank, be sure to lift
the pump off the bottom so that the tank can
never be pumped dry. Use a standpipe inside the
tank to guarantee a minimum water level. This is
discussed further in Section 4.2.6.
4.2.2 Filtration – mechanical and

biological
Mechanical filtration
For RASs, mechanical filtration is arguably the
most important aspect of the design. Mechanical
filtration is the separation and removal of solid
and suspended fish waste from fish tanks. It is
essential to remove these wastes for the health
of the system, because harmful gases are released
by anaerobic bacteria if solid waste is left to
decompose inside the fish tanks. Moreover,
the wastes can clog systems and disrupt water
flow, causing anoxic conditions to the plant
roots. Small-scale aquaponics typically has
lower stocking densities than the intensive RAS
methods for which these mechanical filters were originally designed, but some level of
mechanical filtration is essential for healthy aquaponic tanks, regardless of the type of
hydroponic method used.
There are several types of mechanical filters. The simplest method is a screen or
filter located between the fish tank and the grow bed. This screen catches solid wastes,
and needs to be rinsed often. Similarly, water leaving the fish tank can pass through
a small container of particulate material, separate from the media bed; this container
is easier to rinse periodically. These methods are valid for some small-scale aquaponic
units, but are insufficient in larger systems with more fish where the amount of solid
waste is relevant. There are many types of mechanical filters, including sedimentation
tanks, radial-flow clarifiers, sand or bead filters and baffle filters; each of them can be
used according to the amount of solid wastes that needs to be removed. However, as
this publication focuses on small-scale aquaponics, clarifiers, or mechanical separators,
are the most appropriate filters. Clarifiers, in general, can remove up to 60 percent of
the total removable solids. For further information on different methods of mechanical
filtration, please refer to the further reading section at the end of this publication.
Mechanical separators (clarifiers)

A clarifier is a dedicated vessel that uses the properties of water to separate particles.
Generally, water that is moving slower is unable to carry as many particles as water
that is flowing faster. Therefore, the clarifier is constructed in such a way as to speed
up and slow down the water so that the particles concentrate on the bottom and can
be removed. In a swirl clarifier, the water from the fish tank enters near the lower-
middle of the clarifier through a pipe. This pipe is positioned tangentially to the
container thereby forcing the water to swirl in a circular motion inside the container.
The centripetal force created by the circular motion of the water forces the solid waste
in the water to the centre and bottom of the container, because the water in the centre
of the vortex is slower than that on the outside. Once this waste is collected on the
bottom, a pipe attached to the bottom of the container can be periodically opened,
allowing the solid waste to flush out of the container. The clarified water exits the
clarifier at the top, through a large slotted outlet FIGURE 4.25

pipe covered with a secondary mesh filter, and Diagram of a mechanical solids separator
flows into the biofilter or into the media beds.
Water from fish tank
Figures 4.25–4.27 show examples of simple
mechanical separators for small to large units. Water to
biofilter
The solid wastes trapped and removed contain
nutrients and are very useful for the systems or
for garden plants in general; mineralization of
solid waste is discussed in the following section.
A general guideline for small-scale units is to
size the mechanical separator container to be
about one-sixth the volume of the fish tank, but
this depends on stocking density and the exact Swivel to drain sludge
design. Appendix 8 contains detailed, step-by-
step instruction on the construction of each part
FIGURE 4.26
of these systems. Picture of a mechanical solids separator
Adequate preliminary mechanical filtration is
especially important for NFT and DWC units
used to trap and remove solid waste. Without
this preliminary process, solid and suspended
waste will build up in the grow pipes and canals
and will clog the root surfaces. Solid waste
accumulation causes blockages in pumps and
plumbing components. Finally, unfiltered wastes
will also create hazardous anaerobic spots in
the system. These anaerobic spots can harbour
bacteria that produce hydrogen sulphide, a very
toxic and lethal gas for fish, produced from
fermentation of solid wastes, which can often be
FIGURE 4.27
detected as a rotten egg smell.
Diagram of a mechanical solids separator with baffles
Biofiltration
Biofiltration is the conversion of ammonia and Water to
nitrite into nitrate by living bacteria. Most fish biofilter
waste is not filterable using a mechanical filter
because the waste is dissolved directly in the
water, and the size of these particles is too small Water from
fish tank
to be mechanically removed. Therefore, in order
to process this microscopic waste an aquaponic
system uses microscopic bacteria. Biofiltration Open
is essential in aquaponics because ammonia and to drain
sludge
nitrite are toxic even at low concentrations,
while plants need the nitrates to grow. In an
aquaponic unit, the biofilter is a deliberately
installed component to house a majority of
the living bacteria. Furthermore, the dynamic
movement of water within a biofilter will break down very fine solids not captured by
the clarifier, which further prevents waste build up on plant roots in NFT and DWC.
However, some large aquaponic facilities following the design of the system developed
at the University of the Virgin Islands do not use a separate biofilter as they mostly rely
on the units’ wet surfaces, on plant roots and direct plant uptake to process ammonia.
Separate biofiltration is unnecessary in the media bed technique because the grow beds
themselves are perfect biofilters.
The biofilter is designed to have a large

FIGURE 4.28
Diagram of a biofilter for small-scale nutrient film surface area supplied with oxygenated water.
technique and deep water culture units The biofilter is installed between the mechanical
filter and the hydroponic containers. The
Water to grow beds
minimum volume of this biofilter container
should be one-sixth that of the fish tank.
Water from clarifier
Figure 4.28 shows an example of a biofilter for
small-scale units.
Biofilter One commonly used biofilter medium is
media
Bioballs® a proprietary product available from
aquaculture supply stores, although similar
generic brands exist (Figure 4.29). These are
designed to be an ideal biofilter material,
Pump because they are small, specially shaped plastic
items that have a very large surface area for their
volume (500–700 m²/m³). Other media can be
used, including volcanic gravel, plastic bottle
FIGURE 4.29 caps, nylon shower poufs, netting, polyvinyl
Detail of plastic biofilter medium with large specific chloride (PVC) shavings and nylon scrub pads.
surface area Any biofilter needs to have a high ratio of surface
area to volume, be inert and be easy to rinse.
Bioballs® have almost double the surface area to
volume ratio of volcanic gravel, and both have a
higher ratio than plastic bottle caps. When using
suboptimal biofilter material, it is important to
fill the biofilter as much as possible, but even so
the surface provided by the media may be not
sufficient to ensure adequate biofiltration. It is
always better to oversize the biofilter during
the initial construction, but secondary biofilters
can be added later if necessary. Biofilters
FIGURE 4.30 occasionally need stirring or agitating to prevent
Details of biofilter showing the (a) additional clogging, and occasionally need rinsed if the
mechanical filtration and (b) the biofilter medium solid waste has clogged them, creating anoxic
zones. See Chapter 8 and Appendix 4 for further
a information on biofiltration size requirements
for small-scale units.
Another required component for the biofilter
is aeration. Nitrifying bacteria need adequate
access to oxygen in order to oxidize the ammonia.
One easy solution is to use an air pump, placing
the air stones at the bottom of the container.
b This ensures that the bacteria have constantly
high and stable DO concentrations. Air pumps
also help break down any solid or suspended
waste not captured by the mechanical separator
by agitating and constantly moving the floating
Bioballs®. To further trap solids within the biofilter, it is also possible to insert a small
cylindrical plastic bucket full of nylon netting (such as Perlon®), sponges or a net bag
full of volcanic gravel at the inlet of the biofilter (Figure 4.30). The waste is trapped by
this secondary mechanical filter, allowing the remaining water to flow down through
small holes drilled at the bottom of the bucket into the biofilter container. The trapped
waste is also subject to mineralization and bacterial degradation.
Mineralization
Mineralization, in terms of aquaponics, refers to the way that solid wastes are processed
and metabolized by bacteria into nutrients for plants. Solid wastes that are trapped by
the mechanical filter contain nutrients; although processing these wastes is different
from biofiltration and requires separate consideration. Retaining the solids within the
overall system will add more nutrients back to the plants. Any waste that remains on
the mechanical filters, within the biofilters or in the grow beds is subjected to some
mineralization. Leaving the waste in place for longer allows more mineralization;
longer residence time of the waste in the filters will lead to more mineralization and
more nutrients being retained in the system. However, this same solid waste, if not
properly managed and mineralized, will block water flow, consume oxygen and lead to
anoxic conditions, which in turn lead to dangerous hydrogen sulphide gas production
and denitrification. Some large systems therefore deliberately leave the solid waste
within the filters, ensuring adequate water flow and oxygenation, so that a maximum of
the nutrients is released. However, this method is impractical for small-scale NFT and
DWC systems. If it is decided to deliberately
mineralize these solids, there are simple ways to
FIGURE 4.31
facilitate the bacterial breakdown in a separate Small-scale media bed unit using a screen for
container, simply storing these wastes in this additional mechanical filtration
separate container with adequate oxygenation
using air stones. After an indefinite amount of
time, the solid waste will have been consumed,
metabolized and transformed by heterotrophic
bacteria. At this point, the water can be decanted
and re-added to the aquaponic system, and the
remaining waste, which has decreased in volume,
can be added to the soil.
Alternatively, these solid wastes can be
separated, removed and added to any in-ground
agriculture, garden or compost bin as a valuable
fertilizer. However, losing these nutrients can
FIGURE 4.32
cause deficiencies in the plants which may
A media bed unit used for filtration in a deep
then require supplementation of nutrients (see water culture system
Chapter 6) .
Using a media bed for a combination of

mechanical and biological filtration
It is also possible to use a media-filled bed
for mechanical and biofiltration in NFT and
DWC units (Figures 4.31 and 4.32). This can be
important where it is not possible to obtain the
materials needed for a swirl separator and/or
separate biofilter. Although more fully discussed
in Chapter 8, here it is sufficient to say that for
every 200 g of fish feed per day the biofilter
needs to be 300 litres in volume. This small
gravel would provide adequate biofiltration
for about 20 kg of fish. Although this media
bed would provide adequate biofiltration for
an NFT or DWC unit as well as capturing
and retaining solid wastes, an additional solids
capture device placed into the bed is sometimes
recommended in order to prevent the media bed
FIGURE 4.33
from clogging with fish solids. The
Diagram of a mechanical solids separator (right) connected to bed will need rinsing periodically to
the biofilter (left) remove solid wastes.
Water from fish tank
In summary, some level of filtration
Water to
grow beds is essential to all aquaponics, although
fish stocking density and system
design determines how much filtration
is necessary. Mechanical filters separate
solid wastes to prevent toxic build up,
Biofilter
media
and biofiltration converts dissolved
nitrogenous wastes into nitrate
(Figures 4.33 and 4.34). The media
beds themselves act as both mechanical
filters and biofilters when using that
Pump
technique, but additional mechanical
filtration is sometimes necessary
for higher fish densities (15 kg/m3).
FIGURE 4.34
Without the media beds, such as in
Top view of mechanical solids separator (right) connected to NFT and DWC units, standalone
the biofilter (left) filtration is necessary. Mineralization
of solid wastes returns more nutrients
to the system. Mineralization occurs
in media beds, but within NFT and
DWC systems separate apparatus are
needed.
4.2.3 Hydroponic components –

media beds, NFT, DWC
The hydroponic component is the term
to describe the plant-growing sections
in the unit. There are several designs,
three of which are discussed in detail
in this publication, but each warrants
a separate section. These three designs
are: media bed units, sometimes called
particulate beds, where plants grow within a substrate (Figures 4.35 and 4.36); nutrient
film technique (NFT) units, where plants grow with their roots in wide pipes supplied
with a trickle of culture water (Figure 4.37 and 4.38); and deep water culture (DWC)

Vegetables growing in a media bed unit Different vegetable plants growing in the same
media bed

Detail of lettuce plants growing in circular pipes of a Lettuce growing in square pipes of a nutrient film
nutrient film technique unit technique unit

Swiss chard (Beta sp.) suspended on a polystyrene Lettuce growing densely in small deep water
raft in a deep water culture canal culture unit
units, also called raft aquaponics or floating bed systems, where plants are suspended
above a tank of water using a floating raft (Figure 4.39 and 4.40). Each method has
advantages and disadvantages, all with different component styles to suit the needs of
each method. See Sections 4.3–4.6 for details of each.
4.2.4 Water movement

Water movement is fundamental for keeping all organisms alive in aquaponics. The flowing
water moves from the fish tanks, through the mechanical separator and the biofilter and
finally to the plants in their media beds, pipes or canals, removing the dissolved nutrients.
If water movement stops, the most immediate effect will be a reduction in DO and
accumulation of wastes in the fish tank; without the mechanical filter and biofilter fish can
suffer and die within a few hours. Without water flow, the water in media beds or DWC
units will stagnate and become anoxic, and NFT systems will dry out.
A commonly cited guideline for densely-stocked aquaponic systems is to cycle the
water two times per hour. For example, if an aquaponic unit has a total water volume of
1 000 litres, the water flow rate should be 2 000 litres/h, so that every hour the water is
cycled two times. However, at low stocking densities this turnover rate is unnecessary,
and the water only needs to be cycled one time per hour. There are three commonly
used methods of moving water through a system: submersible impeller pumps, airlifts
and human power.
Submersible impeller water pump

Most commonly, an impeller-type submersible water pump is used as the heart of an
aquaponics unit, and this type of pump is recommended (Figure 4.41). External pumps
FIGURE 4.41
could be used, but they require further plumbing
Submersible water pump, commercially available in and are more appropriate for larger designs.
many brands, used in small-scale aquaponic units High-quality water pumps should preferably
be used in order to guarantee a long life span
and energy efficiency. Top-quality pumps will
maintain their pumping capacity and efficiency
for least 1–2 years, with an overall life span of
3–5 years, whereas inferior products will lose
their pumping power in a shorter time leading
to significantly reduced water flows. Regarding
flow rate, the small-scale units described in this
publication need a flow rate of 2 000 litres/h at
a head height of 1.5 meters; a submersible pump
of this capacity would consume 25–50 W/h.
A helpful approximation to calculate energy
efficiency for submersible pumps is that a pump can move 40 litres of water per hour
for every watt per hour consumed, although some models claim twice this efficiency.
When designing the plumbing for the pump, it is important to realize that pumping
power is reduced at every pipe fitting; up to 5 percent of the total flow rate can be lost
at each pipe connection when water is forced through. Thus, use the minimal number
of connections between the pump and the fish tanks. It is also important to note that
the smaller the diameter of the pipes, the larger the water flow loss. A 30 mm pipe
has twice the flow of a 20 mm pipe even if served from pumps with same capacity.
In addition, a larger pipe does not require any maintenance to remove the buildup
of solids accumulating inside. In practical terms, this results in significant savings on
electricity and operating costs. When installing an aquaponic unit, be sure to place
the submersible pump in an accessible location because periodic cleaning is necessary.
Indeed, the internal filter will need cleaning every 2–3 weeks. Submersible water pumps
will break if they are run without water; never run a pump dry.
Airlift
FIGURE 4.42
Simple water airlift
Airlifts are another technique of lifting water
(Figure 4.42). They use an air pump rather a
water pump. Air is forced to the bottom of a
pipe within the fish tank, bubbles form and
burst, and during their rise to the surface the
bubbles transport water with them. One benefit
is that airlifts can be more electrically efficient,
but only at small head heights (30–40 cm).
Air lifts gain power in deeper tanks, and are
best at a depth greater than one metre. An
added value is that airlifts do not clog the way
that submersible impeller-type pumps do. In
addition, water is also oxygenated through the
vertical movement operated by the air bubbles.
However, the volume of air pumped should
be adequate to move the water along the pipe.
Air pumps generally have a longer life than
submersible water pumps. The main benefit
comes from an economy of scale – a single air
pump can be purchased for both aeration and
water circulation, which reduces the capital
investment in a second pump.
Human power
FIGURE 4.43
Some aquaponic systems have been designed to Backyard aquaponic system without the use of a
use human power to move water (Figure 4.43). water pump
Water can be lifted in buckets or by using
pulleys, modified bicycles or other means. A
header tank can be filled manually and allowed
to slowly drain throughout the course of the
day. These methods are only applicable for small
systems, and should only be considered where
electricity is unavailable or unreliable. Often
these systems will have low DO and insufficient
mixing of nutrients, although they can be used
successfully in conjunction with some modified
techniques discussed in Chapter 9.
4.2.5 Aeration
Air pumps inject air into the water through
air pipes and air stones that lie inside the
water tanks, thereby increasing the DO levels
in the water (Figure 4.44). Additional DO is
a vital component of NFT and DWC units.
Air stones are located at the end of the air
line, and serve to diffuse the air into smaller
bubbles (Figure 4.45). Small bubbles have more FIGURE 4.44
surface area, and therefore release oxygen into Small air pump commercially available in
water better than large bubbles; this makes the many brands
aeration system more efficient and contributes

to saving on costs. It is recommended that
quality air stones be used in order to obtain
the smallest air bubbles. Biofouling will occur,
and air stones should be cleaned regularly first
with a chlorine solution to kill bacterial deposits
and then, if necessary, with a very mild acid
to remove mineralization, or replaced, when
the flow of bubbles is inconsistent. Quality
air pumps are an irreplaceable component of
aquaponic systems, and many systems have been
saved from catastrophic collapse because of an FIGURE 4.45
abundance of DO. If possible, it is preferable to Air stone used to diffuse pressurized air into fine
use a combination AC/DC air pump in case of bubbles in the water
electricity shortages, because when disconnected
from AC power during an outage, the charged
DC batteries can continue working.
Sizing aeration systems

For small-scale units, with about 1 000 litre fish
tanks, it is recommended that at least two air
lines, also called injectors, with air stones should
be placed in the fish tank, and one injector in the
biofilter container. To understand the volume of
air entering the system, it is worth measuring
the flow rate. To do this, simply invert a volumetric measuring device (a 2 litre bottle,
measuring cup, graduated beaker) in the fish tank. With the help of an assistant, begin
a stopwatch at the same time as the bubbling air stone is inserted into the measuring
device. Stop the stopwatch when the container is full of air. Then, determine the flow
rate in litres per minute using a ratio. The target for systems described here is 4–8 litres/
min for all of the air stones combined. It is always better to have extra DO rather than
not enough.
Try to place air stones so that they do not re-suspend settling solids, thus preventing
their removal through the centre drain.
Venturi siphons
Low-tech and simple to construct, Venturi siphons are another technique to increase
the DO levels in aquaponics. This technique is especially valuable in DWC canals.
Simply speaking, Venturi siphons use a hydrodynamic principle that pulls in air from
the outside (aspiration) when pressurized water flows with a faster speed through
a pipe section of a smaller diameter. With constant water flow, if the pipe diameter
diminishes the water velocity must increase, and this faster speed creates a negative
pressure. Venturi siphons are short sections of pipe (20 mm diameter, 5 cm length)
inserted inside the main water pipe of a larger diameter (25 mm). As the water in the
main pipe is forced through the narrower section, it creates a jet effect (Figure 4.46).
This jet effect sucks surrounding air into the water stream through a small hole cut into
the outer constriction pipe. If the Venturi siphon is underwater, the small hole can be
connected to a length of tubing that is exposed to the atmosphere. Venturi siphons can
be integrated into each inflow pipe in DWC canals, which will raise the DO content
of the canal. They can also serve as a redundancy for fish tank aeration if the air pump
fails. See the section Further Reading for more sources of information.
FIGURE 4.46
Step by step preparation of a Venturi siphon. A small section of pipe (a) is inserted into the
end of the main water pipe (b). A small notch is cut (c, d) into the narrower pipe through
which air is sucked (e)
a b
c d e
4.2.6 Sump tank

The sump tank is a water collection tank at the lowest point in the system; water always
runs downhill to the sump (Figure 4.47). This is often the location of the submersible
pump. Sump tanks should be smaller than the fish tanks, and should be able to hold
between one-fourth and one-third of the volume FIGURE 4.47

of the fish tank. For ebb-and-flow type media Sump tank buried in the ground to allow water
beds, the sump needs to be large enough to hold collection by gravity
at least the entire volume of water in the grow
beds (see Section 4.3). External sump tanks are
mainly used in media bed units; however, for
DWC units the actual hydroponic canal can
be used as a sump tank / pump house also.
Although helpful, it is not an essential system
component, and many designs do not employ an
external sump tank. Very small units, with fish
tanks up to 200 litres can simply pump water
from the fish tank to the grow beds, from where
water trickles back down into the fish tank.
However, for larger units it is very useful to have a sump.
A common method of aquaponics, and the one recommended here, is to have the
pump located in the sump tank. A commonly used acronym describes the key points
of this design, which is: constant height in fish tank – pump in sump tank (CHIFT–
PIST). Using this method means that any water losses, including both evaporation and
leaking components, are only manifested within the sump tank and do not affect the
volume of the fish tank. It is then straight-forward to measure the normal evaporative
losses and to calculate how often water needs replenishing, and it can be determined
immediately if there is a leak. Perhaps more importantly, any leaks in the hydroponic
system will not harm the fish. Section 9.2 discusses securing water levels in different
ways.
4.2.7 Plumbing materials

Every system requires a selection of PVC pipe, FIGURE 4.48
PVC connections and fittings, hoses and tubes A selection of commonly used plumbing materials
(Figure 4.48). These provide the channels for
water to flow into each component. Bulkhead
valves, Uniseals® (hereafter uniseal), silicone
sealant and Teflon tape are also needed. The
PVC components are connected together in a
permanent way using PVC cement, although
silicone sealant can be temporarily used if the
plumbing is not permanent and the joints are
not under high water pressure. In addition,
some general tools are needed such as hammers,
drills, hand saws, electric saws, measuring tapes,
pliers, channel-locking pliers, screwdrivers,
levels, etc. One special tool is a hole-saw and/
or spade bit, which are used in an electric drill to make holes up to 8 cm, necessary for
inserting the pipes into the fish tanks and filters, as well as for making holes in the PVC
or polystyrene grow beds in NFT and DWC systems. Appendix 8 contains a detailed
list of materials needed for each unit described in this publication.
Make sure that the pipes and plumbing used in the system have never previously
been used to hold toxic substances. It is also important that the plumbing used is of
food-grade quality to prevent possible leeching of chemicals into the system water. It
is also important to use pipes that are black and/or non-transparent to light, which will
stop algae from growing.
4.2.8 Water testing kits

FIGURE 4.49
Water test kit, available in many brands, including Simple water tests are a requirement for every
tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and alkalinity aquaponic unit. Colour-coded freshwater test
kits are readily available, fairly economical and
easy to use, and thus these are recommended.
These can be purchased in aquarium stores or
online. These kits include tests for pH, ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, GH and KH (Figure 4.49). Be
sure that the manufacturers are reliable and that
the expiration date is still valid. Other methods
include digital meters or test strips. If using digital
meters for pH or nitrate, be sure to calibrate the
units according to the manufacturer’s directions.
A thermometer is necessary to measure water
temperature. In addition, if there is risk of saltwater in the source water, a cheap
hydrometer, or a more accurate but more expensive refractometer, is worthwhile. More
details on the use of colourimetric test kits are included in Section 3.3.6.
4.3 The Media Bed technique

Media-filled bed units are the most popular design for small-scale aquaponics. This
method is strongly recommended for most developing regions. These designs are
efficient with space, have a relatively low initial cost and are suitable for beginners
because of their simplicity. In media bed units, the medium is used to support the
roots of the plants and also the same medium functions as a filter, both mechanical
and biological. This double function is the main reason why media bed units are the
simplest; the following sections demonstrate how NFT and DWC methods both
require isolated and more complicated components for filtration. However, the media
bed technique can become unwieldy and relatively expensive at a larger-scale. Media
can become clogged if fish stocking densities exceed the beds’ carrying capacity, and
this can require separate filtration. Water evaporation is higher in media beds with
more surface area exposed to the sun. Some media are very heavy.
There are many designs for media beds, and this is probably the most adaptable
technique. For example, Bumina is an aquaponic technique used in Indonesia that uses
many small media beds connected to an in-ground fish tank (Section 9.4.3). Moreover,
recycled materials can easily be repurposed to hold the media and the fish.
4.3.1 Water flow dynamics

Figure 4.50 shows the main components of an aquaponic system using media beds,
including the fish tank, the media beds, the sump tank and water pump, as well as
concrete blocks for support. It is easiest to understand by following the water flow
through the system. Water flows by gravity from the fish tank, through a simple
mechanical filter and into the media beds. These media beds are full of porous
biofilter media that serves as both the mechanical and biological filter and location
for mineralization. These beds both host the colony of nitrifying bacteria as well as
provide the place for the plants to grow. On exiting the media beds, the water travels
down to the sump tank, again by gravity. At this point, the water is relatively free of
solid and dissolved wastes. Finally, this clean water is pumped back to the fish tank,
which causes the water level to rise and over-flow from the fish tank back into the
media beds, completing the cycle. Some media beds are designed to flood-and-drain,
which means that the water level rises to a certain point and then completely drains.
This adds oxygen to the plant roots and aids in the biofiltration of the ammonia. Other
media irrigation methods use a constant flow of water, either entering one side of the
bed and exiting the other, or distributed through a drip irrigation array.
FIGURE 4.50
Illustration of a small media bed unit
4.3.2 Media bed construction

Materials
Media beds can be made from plastic, fibreglass
FIGURE 4.51
or a wooden frame with water-tight rubber or Media bed unit constructed from intermediate
polyethylene sheeting on the base and inside bulk containers
the walls. The most popular “do-it-yourself”
(DIY) media beds are made from plastic
containers, modified IBCs or even old bathtubs
(Figure 4.51). It is possible to use all of the above
as beds and other kinds of tanks so long as they
meet these following requirements:
• strong enough to hold water and growing
media without breaking;
• able to withstand difficult weather
conditions;
• made of food-grade material that is safe for
the fish, plants and bacteria;
• can be easily connected to other unit components through simple plumbing parts;
and
• can be placed in close proximity to the other unit components.
Shape
The standard shape for media beds is a rectangle, with a width of about 1 m and a
length of 1–3 m. Larger beds can be used / manufactured, but they require additional
support (i.e. concrete blocks) in order to hold their weight. In addition, longer beds
may have unequal distributions of solids that tend to accumulate at the water inlet,
raising the risk of anaerobic spots. The beds should not be so wide that the farmer/
operator is unable to reach across, at least half-way.
Depth
Media bed depth is important because it controls the amount of root space volume in
the unit which determines the types of vegetables that can be grown. If growing large
fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes, okra or cabbage, the media bed should have a depth
of 30 cm, without which the larger vegetables would not have sufficient root space,
would experience root matting and nutrient deficiencies, and would probably topple
over (Figure 4.52). Small leafy green vegetables

FIGURE 4.52
Fibreglass tanks used in a media bed unit only require 15–20 cm of media depth, making
them a good choice if the media bed size is
limited. Even so, some experiments have shown
that even the larger crops can be grown in
shallow beds if the nutrient concentrations are
sufficient.
4.3.3 Choice of medium

All applicable growing media will have several
common and essential criteria. The medium
needs to have adequate surface area while
remaining permeable for water and air, thus
allowing the bacteria to grow, the water to flow
and the plants roots to breathe. The medium
must be inert, not dusty, and non-toxic, and it must have a neutral pH so as not to
affect the water quality. It is important to wash the medium thoroughly before placing
it into the beds, particularly volcanic gravel which contains dust and tiny particles.
These particles can clog the system and potentially harm the fishes’ gills. Finally, it
is important to work with material that is comfortable for the farmer. These essential
criteria are listed below:
• large surface area for bacterial growth;
• neutral pH and inert (meaning the medium will not leach out any potentially toxic
substances);
• good drainage properties;
• easy to work with;
• sufficient space for air and water to flow within the medium;
• available and cost-effective; and
• light-weight, if possible.
Several common media meeting the criteria are discussed include:5</<<<,
Volcanic gravel (tuff)

Volcanic gravel is the most popular medium to use for media bed units and is
recommended where available (Figure 4.53). The three best qualities of volcanic gravel
are that it has a very high surface area to volume ratio, it can be cheap and easy to
obtain, and it is almost chemically inert. Volcanic gravel has a surface area to volume
ratio of about 300 m2/m3, depending on the
FIGURE 4.53 particle size, which provides ample space for
Volcanic tuff used as growing medium bacteria to colonize. Volcanic gravel is abundant
in many locations around the world. Once
washed of dust and dirt, volcanic gravel is
almost completely chemically inert, except for
small releases of microelements such as iron and
magnesium and the absorption of phosphate
and potassium ions within the first few months
of starting a unit. The recommended size of
volcanic gravel is 8–20 mm in diameter. Smaller
gravel is likely to clog with solid waste and
larger gravel does not offer the surface area or
plant support as required.
Limestone
FIGURE 4.54
Limestone is not recommended as a growing Limestone gravel used as growing medium
medium, though it is commonly used (Figure 4.54).
Limestone, a sedimentary rock, is less desirable
than other media because it has a lower surface
area to volume ratio, is heavy and is not inert.
Limestone is composed primarily of calcium
carbonate (CaCO3), which dissolves in water
and affects water quality. Limestone will increase
the KH of the water, which will also increase the
pH (see Section 3.3). Therefore, this material is
better used where water sources are very low in
alkalinity or acidic, as in cases of alkaline water
it would call for constant acid corrections of
incoming waters. Nevertheless, a small addition of limestone can help to counterbalance
the acidifying effect of nitrifying bacteria, which can offset the need for regular water
buffering in well balanced systems. Limestone may not be as comfortable to work
with in terms of planting and harvesting, and it can experience clogging if the proper
granulometry is not chosen. However, it is often the cheapest and most common form
of gravel available. Limestone is only acceptable as a medium if no other media are
available, but be aware of its impact on water quality.
Light expanded clay aggregate

Light expanded clay aggregate (LECA) consists of expanded clay pebbles (Figure 4.55).
Originally, it was manufactured for thermal insulation of building roofs, but it has
more recently been used in hydroponics. These pebbles are round in shape and very
lightweight compared with other substrates.
They are very comfortable to work with and FIGURE 4.55
ideal for rooftop production. The surface area Light expanded clay aggregate pellets used as
growing medium
of LECA is about 250–300 m2/m3, which is
within the target range. However, LECA is
relatively expensive and not widely available
around the world. It comes in a variety of sizes;
for aquaponics the larger sizes with diameters
8–20 mm are recommended. This material can
give additional benefits to growers in case of
media beds placed directly on rooftop floors
(depending on design). The building can in fact
benefit from additional insulation, which can
decrease houses’ cooling/heating costs.
Other possible media choices

If the above-listed media are unavailable, it is possible to use other media. Alternatives
include: river-bed gravel, which is usually limestone but can have a low surface area to
volume ratio depending on the granulometry; pumice (also rockwool), a white/grey
volcanic material also popularly used as growing medium in hydroponics; recycled
plastic, although plastic floats and needs to be held submerged with a layer of gravel on
top; or organic substrates such as coconut fibre, sawdust, peat moss or rice hull, which
are often inexpensive but risk becoming anoxic, deteriorating over time and clogging
the system. However, organic substrate can be used for a time within aquaponics, and
once it begins to deteriorate, the media can be removed from the system, composted,
and used as a valuable soil addition for soil crops. Table 4.1 summarizes the major
characteristics for all the growing media mentioned above.
TABLE 4.1
Characteristics of different growing media
Surface Ease to
Water Plant
Media type area pH Cost Weight Lifespan work
retention support
(m2/m3) with
Volcanic gravel Medium–
300–400 Neutral Medium Medium Long Excellent Medium
(tuff) Poor
Volcanic gravel Medium– Medium–
200–300 Neutral Light Long Medium Easy
(pumice) High Poor
Limestone gravel 150–200 Basic Low Heavy Long Poor Excellent Difficult
Expanded clay Medium–

250–300 Neutral High Light Long Medium Easy
(LECA) Poor
Plastic bottle caps 50–100 Inert Low Light Long Poor Poor Easy
200–400 Low–
Coconut fibre Neutral Light Short High Medium Easy
(variable) Medium
Displacement of water by media

Depending on the medium, it will occupy roughly 30–60 percent of the total media bed
volume. This percentage will help decide on the sump tank size for each unit, because
the sump tank, at the very least, will need to hold the total water volume contained
in all the media beds. Sump tanks should be slightly oversized to ensure that there is
always adequate water for the pump to run without ever running dry.
For example, for a media bed of 1 000 litres (dimensions 2 m long × 2 m wide
× 0.25 m medium depth), the growing medium will displace 300–600 litres of this
space, and therefore the water volume of the media bed would be 400–700 litres. It
is recommended that the sump volume be at least 70 percent of the total media bed
volume. For this example, the sump tank should be approximately 700 litres.
4.3.4 Filtration
The media beds serve as very efficient filters, both mechanical and biological. Unlike
the NFT and DWC systems (discussed below), the media bed technique utilizes a
combination filter and plant growing area. In addition, the media bed provides a place
for mineralization to occur, which is absent in the NFT and DWC systems. However, at
high stocking densities (>15 kg/m3), the mechanical filtration can be overwhelmed and
can face the risk of having the media clogged and producing dangerous anaerobic spots.
Mechanical filter
The medium-filled bed functions as a large physical filter, capturing and containing the
solid and suspended fish waste and other floating organic debris. The effectiveness of
this filter will depend on the particle size of the medium because smaller particles are
more densely packed and capture more solids. Moreover, a high water flow rate can
force particles through the media bed and escape the filter. Over time, the captured
solid wastes will break down and be mineralized. A properly balanced system will
process all of the incoming solid wastes.
When media beds are improperly sized for the stocking density, the media bed can
become clogged with solids. This indicates a mistake in the original design when the
feed rate ratio was used to balance the system. This situation leads to beds clogged with
solid waste, poor water circulation, anoxic areas and dangerous conditions. When this
occurs, the medium needs to be washed, which is labour-intensive, disrupts the plant
growing cycle and can briefly disturb the nitrifying bacteria.
To avoid this situation be sure that the original design considered the stocking
density, feeding regime, and used the feed rate ratio to calculate the required area of
the media bed. Alternatively, another solids capture device can be integrated into the
unit design. This is also recommended where the stocking density exceeds 15 kg/m3
and/or if the feeding rate is above 50 g/day for each square metre of grow bed. There
are several options for this additional mechanical filter. A rudimentary and cheap
technique is to affix an old, orphan sock to the tap where water from the fish tank
enters the media bed. This simple filter can be removed each day and rinsed. Another
more elaborate method is to place a 3–5 litre bucket inside the media bed with several
small holes (6–8 mm) drilled into the side surfaces (Figure 4.31). Sponges, nylon netting
or even growing media (volcanic gravel, LECA) can be tied in a porous inert net bag
and placed into this bucket. This filter will trap the solid waste, and the filter can then
be removed periodically to be rinsed and replaced.
Biological filtration
All of the growing media herein outlined have a large surface area where nitrifying
bacteria can colonize. Of all of the aquaponic designs, media beds have the most
biological filtration because of the huge area of media on which the bacteria can grow.
Biofiltration capacity can be limited or lost if the media beds become anoxic, if the
temperatures drop or if the water quality is poor, but generally media beds have more
than adequate biological filtration.
Mineralization
Over time, the solid and suspended fish waste and all other debris are slowly broken
down by biological and physical processes into simple nutrients in the form of simple
molecules and ions that the plants can easily absorb. If sludge accumulates in the media
bed and does not leave, it may indicate that the mineralization process is not sufficient.
In this case, the recommendation is to use more effective mechanical filtration and
process the filtered waste separately. This process is described in more detail in
Section 4.2.2 and Chapter 5.
4.3.5 The three zones of media beds – characteristics and processes

The nature of a flood-and-drain media bed creates three separate zones that can be
considered microecosystems, which are differentiated by their water and oxygen
content. Each zone hosts a diverse group of bacteria, fungi, micro-organisms, worms,
insects and crustaceans. One of the most important is the nitrifying bacteria used for
biofiltration, but there are many other species that all have a role in the breaking down
of fish wastes. It is not essential to be aware of all these organisms, but this section
briefly outlines the differences between these three zones and some of the ecological
processes occurring in each.
Dry zone
The top 2–5 cm of the bed is the dry zone (Figure 4.56). This zone functions as a light
barrier, preventing the light from hitting the water directly which can lead to algal
growth. It also prevents the growth of fungus and harmful bacteria at the base of the
plant stem, which can cause collar rot and other plant diseases. Another reason to have
a dry zone is to minimize evaporation from beds by covering the wet zone from direct
light. Moreover, beneficial bacteria are sensitive to direct sunlight.
Dry/wet zone
This is the zone that has both moisture and high gas exchange. In flood-and-drain
techniques (discussed below) this is the 10–20 cm space where the media bed
intermittingly floods and drains (Figure 4.57). If not using flood-and-drain techniques,
this zone will be the path that the water flows through the medium. Most of the
biological activity will occur in this zone. The root development, the beneficial bacteria
colonies and beneficial micro-organisms are active in this zone. The plants and the
FIGURE 4.56
The three zones of a media bed during the drain cycle
Dry zone
Wet & dry zone
Wet zone
Water outflow
FIGURE 4.57
The three zones of a media bed during the flood cycle
Dry zone
Wet & dry zone
Wet zone
Water outflow
animals receive their water, nutrients and oxygen because of the interface between air
and water.
One common technique is adding worms to the media bed which will live in this
dry/wet zone. The worms will contribute to the breakdown of solid fish waste and
they will also consume any dead leaves or roots. This activity will prevent wastes
from clogging the system. See Section 9.1.1 for more information about worms and
vermicompost.
Wet zone
This zone, the bottom 3–5 cm of the bed, remains permanently wet. In this zone, the
small particulate solid wastes accumulate, and, therefore the organisms that are most
active in mineralization are located here. These include heterotrophic bacteria and
other micro-organisms. These organisms are responsible for breaking down the waste
into smaller fractions and molecules that can be absorbed by the plants through the
process of mineralization.
4.3.6 Irrigating media beds

There are different techniques to deliver water to media beds, each can be relevant
depending on the local availability of materials, the degree of technology desired or the
experience of the operators. Water can be simply trickled from holed pipes uniformly
distributed on the medium; this is a perfectly acceptable design. Some experts have
demonstrated that constant flow designs, where the water level within the grow bed
is always the same, support the same growth rates of plants as more complicated
methods. These water distribution systems can become clogged with solid fish waste
and should be periodically cleared.
A method called flood-and-drain, also known as ebb-and-flow, can be used where
the system of plumbing causes the media beds to flood with water from the fish tank
and then drain back in the sump tank. This is accomplished through autosiphons
or timed pumping. This alternation between flooding and draining ensures that the
plants have both fresh nutrients and adequate air flow in the root zone. This thereby
replenishes the oxygen levels for plants and bacteria. It also ensures that enough
moisture is in the bed at all times so the bacteria can thrive in their optimum conditions.
Usually, these systems go through the complete cycle 1–2 times every hour, but some
successful systems only cycle 3–4 times per day. Flood-and-drain designs are not the
only techniques for media beds, and managing the water flow cycle may be frustrating
and time-consuming for novice operators.
This publication briefly discusses two popular methods for flooding and draining
a bed, although other methods, such as the looped siphon, exist and are the subject of
current research.
Bell siphon
The bell siphon is a type of autosiphon that exploits a few physical laws of hydrodynamics
and allows the media bed to flood and drain automatically, periodically, without a timer
(Figure 4.58). The action, timing and ultimate success of the siphon are dependent on
the water’s flow rate into the bed, which is constant. Bell siphons can nevertheless be
finicky and require attention.
FIGURE 4.58
Diagram of a bell siphon and components installed in a grow bed
Stand Media
Bell pipe Grow bed
guard
Water outflow
Water flow dynamics

Water flows into each grow bed at a constant flow rate. As the water fills the grow bed
it reaches the top of the standpipe, and begins to drip through the standpipe back to the
sump tank. Without the bell portion of the bell siphon, this would create a condition
of constant water height. Instead, as the water continues to fall through the standpipe,
the bell, which sits over the standpipe something like a hat, acts as an air tight lock and
produces a siphon effect. This suction within the bell starts the siphon. Once started,
all the water from the bed starts to rapidly flush down the standpipe as the bell keeps
its air tight seal. The draining through the standpipe is faster than the constant inflow
from the fish tank. When the water in the grow bed drains all the way down to bottom,
air enters the bottom of the bell and immediately stops the siphon. The water then
slowly fills back up and repeats the whole cycle again continuously. See the section on
Further Reading at the end of this publication for more information on bell siphons.
Main components of a bell siphon

The three main components of a bell siphon are described below. Note that detailed
instructions for understanding, constructing and optimizing bell siphons, as well as
pictures of these components, can be found in Appendix 8. The dimensions of the
standpipe, bell and media guard are completely dependent on the size of the grow
bed and incoming water flow rate. These dimensions are provided for the aquaponic
designs outlined in this publication for a media bed of 1–3 m2 with a media depth of
30 cm, with an incoming water flow rate of 200–500 litres/h for each bed. For large
grow beds, all of the components would be larger.
Standpipe – The standpipe is constructed of a PVC pipe, 2.5 cm diameter, of a height
of 22 cm. The standpipe passes through the bottom of the grow bed, connecting to
the sump, and is the path of the water as it drains.
Bell – The bell is a PVC pipe, 7.5 cm diameter, of a height of 25 cm. The pipe is
capped with a PVC end-cap on top, and is open on the bottom where it fits over
the standpipe. Two rectangular gaps, 1 cm × 4 cm, are located near the bottom of
the bell, 1.5 cm up on opposite sides, through which the water is pulled up into the
standpipe inside the bell. A final 1 cm hole is drilled 5 cm from the bottom to help
break the siphon once the grow bed is drained by allowing air to enter.
Media guard – The media guard is a PVC pipe, 11 cm diameter, of a height of 32
cm with many small holes drilled in its sides. The media guard prevents the gravel
from the grow bed from entering and clogging the standpipe, without obstructing
the flow of water.
Timer mechanism
This method of flood-and-drain irrigation relies on a timer switch on the water pump
to control the periodic flooding and draining (Figure 4.59). The benefit of this method
FIGURE 4.59
Diagram of a media bed standpipe and media guard
Water outflow
is that there is no autosiphon, which can be labour-intensive to calibrate. However, the

reduced water circulation and reduced aeration in the fish tanks results in less overall
filtration. This method is less appropriate in high-density stocking situations, and
requires careful attention to provide supplemental aeration to fish.
Water flow dynamics

Water flows into the grow bed, flooding the bed until the water reaches the top of
the standpipe. The water then drains through this standpipe and down into the sump
tank. The large standpipe is of sufficient diameter to drain all of the inflowing water;
the top of the large standpipe is the deepest flood that the grow bed will experience.
There is also a small inlet, 6–12 mm diameter, into this same standpipe located near
the bottom. This small inlet is insufficient to drain all of the incoming water and,
therefore, even as water enters the small inlet, the grow bed continues to flood until
it reaches the top. At some point after the bed is full, the timer cuts the power to the
water pump. Water in the media bed begins to flow out through the small inlet hole,
continuing to drain the grow bed until the water reaches the level of the bottom hole.
At this point, the power is returned to the water pump and the grow bed is refilled
with fresh fish-tank water. It is very important that the water flowing into the media
bed is greater than the water flowing through the small inlet in the standpipe so
that the bed will fully flood again. The flooding and draining cycle length and the
diameter of the dripping hole are determined by the size of the media bed and the
incoming flow rate.
To ensure adequate filtration, the entire fish tank volume should be pumped through
the grow beds every hour. Finally, make sure to flush the beds out once every week by
temporarily removing the standpipe and allowing the remaining water to drain.
The materials involved for the timer method for the aquaponic designs included in
this publication are as follows: a standpipe, 2.5 cm diameter, of a height of 23 cm that
has a secondary dripping hole, 6–12 mm diameter, 2.5 cm above the bottom; a media
guard, 11 cm diameter and 32 cm in height, encircling the standpipe to prevent media
from clogging it; and a timer that controls the pump that is calibrated based on the flow
rate of the pump and the drain rate of the standpipe.
4.4 Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)

The NFT is a hydroponic method using horizontal pipes each with a shallow stream of
nutrient-rich aquaponic water flowing through it (Figure 4.60). Plants are placed within
holes in the top of the pipes, and are able to use this thin film of nutrient-rich water.
FIGURE 4.60
Illustration of a small nutrient film technique unit

FIGURE 4.61
Both the NFT and DWC are popular methods
Lettuce growing in a commercial nutrient film for commercial operations as both are financially
technique unit more viable than media bed units when scaled
up (Figure 4.61). This technique has very low
evaporation because the water is completely
shielded from the sun. This technique is far more
complicated and expensive than media beds,
and may not be appropriate in locations with
inadequate access to suppliers. This technique
is most useful in urban applications, especially
when using vertical space or weight-limitations
are considerations.
Although all methods have a different
approach to actually growing plants, the most
important difference between them is the method
of filtration that both the NFT and DWC units utilize compared with the media bed
method. The following text describes this method of filtration for NFT and DWC
units in detail. Afterwards, the NFT and DWC methods are discussed individually.
The general layout of this section begins with water flow dynamics, or how the water
moves through the system. Then filtration methods are discussed, followed by specific
planting guidelines for NFT systems.

The water flows by gravity from the fish tank, through the mechanical filter and into
the combination biofilter/sump. From the sump, the water is pumped in two directions
through a “Y” connector and valves. Some water is pumped directly back to the fish
tank. The remaining water is pumped into a manifold that distributes the water equally
through the NFT pipes. The water flows, again by gravity, down through the grow
pipes where the plants are located. On exiting the grow pipes, the water is returned to
the biofilter/sump, where again it is pumped either into the fish tank or grow pipes.
The water that enters the fish tank causes the fish tank to overflow through the exit
pipe and back into mechanical filter, thus completing the cycle.
This design, as described in this publication, is called a “Figure 8” design because
of the path of the water. This design ensures that filtered water enters both the fish
tank and the grow pipes, while only using one pump. There is no need to place the
sump lower than the rest of the unit, making this design possible to use on existing
concrete floors or on rooftops. All components are at a comfortable working level
for the farmer without stooping or using ladders. Moreover, the design fully utilizes
the size of the IBC container to ensure adequate room for the fish. One drawback is
that the combination sump/biofilter works to dilute the nutrient concentration of the
water reaching the grow pipes, and at the same time, returns water to the fish before
the water has been fully stripped of nutrients. However, the slight dilution is managed
by controlling the bidirectional flow leaving the sump/biofilter and, overall, it has little
effect on the efficacy of this system in light of the benefits provided. Generally, the
pump returns 80 percent of the water to the fish tanks and the remaining 20 percent to
the grow beds or canals, and this can be controlled with the valve.
4.4.2 Mechanical and biological filtration

Dedicated filtration is of critical importance in both NFT and DWC units. Whereas
the medium in the media bed technique serves as a biofilter and a mechanical filter, the
NFT and DWC techniques do not have this luxury. Therefore, both types of filters
need to be deliberately constructed: first, a physical trap to catch the solid wastes, and
then a biological filter for nitrification. As mentioned in Section 4.3, there are many
types of mechanical filters, and NFT and DWC units require those at the high end of
the spectrum outlined therein. The designs described in Appendix 8 use a mechanical
swirl filter to trap particulate wastes, with periodic venting of the captured solids. On
exiting the swirl filter, the water passes through an additional mesh screen to trap any
remaining solids and then reaches the biofilter. The biofilter is well oxygenated with
air stones and contains a biofiltration media, usually Bioballs®, nylon netting or bottle
caps, where the nitrifying bacteria transform the dissolved wastes. With insufficient
filtration, both NFT and DWC units would clog, become anoxic and exhibit poor
growing conditions for plants and fish alike.
4.4.3 Nutrient film technique grow pipes, construction and planting

Following on from the filtration methods
explained above, NFT then employs the FIGURE 4.62
Lettuce growing in square grow pipes of a nutrient
use of plastic pipes laid out horizontally to
film technique unit
grow vegetables using the aquaponic water
(Figure 4.62). Where possible, use pipes of
rectangular section with width larger than
height, which is standard among hydroponic
growers. The reason lies in a larger film of water
that hits the roots with the scope of increasing
the nutrient uptake and plant growth. One
of the benefits of the NFT is that the pipes
can be arranged in many patterns, beyond the
scope of this publication, and can make use of
vertical space, walls and fences, and overhanging
balconies (Figure 4.63).
The water is pumped from the biofilter FIGURE 4.63
into each hydroponic pipe with a small equal Grow pipes of a nutrient film technique unit
arranged vertically
flow creating a shallow stream of nutrient-rich
aquaponic water flowing along the bottom. The
grow pipes contain a number of holes along the
top of the pipe into which the plants are placed.
As the plants start to consume the nutrient-rich
water from the stream, they begin to develop
root systems inside the grow pipes. At the
same time, their stems and leaves grow out and
around the pipes. The shallow film of water at
the bottom of each pipe ensures that the roots
receive large amounts of oxygen at the root zone
along with moisture and nutrition. Keeping a
shallow stream allows the roots to have a larger air exchange surface. The water flow
for each grow pipe should be no greater than 1–2 litres/min. The flow rate is controlled
from the Y-valve, with all excess water flow returned to the fish tank.
Grow pipe shape and size

It is wise to choose a pipe with the optimum diameter for the types of plants grown.
Pipes with a square cross-section are best, but round pipes are more common and
totally acceptable. For larger fruiting vegetables, 11 cm diameter grow pipes are needed
while fast-growing leafy green and small vegetables with small root masses only
require pipes with a diameter of 7.5 cm. For small-scale polyculture (growing many
types of vegetables) 11 cm diameter pipes should be used (Figure 4.64). This avoids
plant selection limitations because the small plants can always be grown in the larger
pipes, although there would be a sacrifice in planting density. Plants with extensive root
FIGURE 4.64
systems, including mature older plants, can clog
Several grow pipes showing hole spacing smaller pipes and cause overflows and losses of
water. Be especially mindful of tomatoes and
mint, as their massive root systems can easily
clog even large pipes.
The grow pipe length can be anywhere
between 1 and 12 m. In pipes longer than 12 m,
nutrient deficiencies can occur in plants towards
the end of the pipes because the first plants have
already stripped the nutrients. A slope of about
1 cm/m of pipe length is needed to make sure
the water flows through the whole pipe with
ease. The slope is controlled by using shims
(wedges) on the side away from the fish tank.
PVC pipes are recommended because they
are usually the most commonly available and are
inexpensive. White pipes should be used as the
colour reflects the sun’s rays, thereby keeping the
inside of the pipes cool. Alternatively, square or
rectangular hydroponic pipes with dimensions
10 cm width × 7 cm height are recommended.
Professional hydroponic pipes for commercial growers are typically this shape, and
some growers use vinyl fence posts.
Planting within the grow pipes

The holes drilled into the hydroponic pipe should be 7–9 cm in diameter, and should
match the size of the available net cups. There should be a minimum of 21 cm between
the centre of each plant hole to allow adequate plant space for leafy greens and larger
vegetables (Figures 4.65 and 4.66).
Each seedling is placed into a plastic net cup, which is then in turn placed within the
grow pipe. This provides physical support for the plant. The net cups are filled with
general purpose hydroponic media (volcanic gravel, rockwool or LECA) around the
seedling. If desired, a 5–10 cm length of 5 cm PVC pipe can be placed inside the net cup
as further balance and support to the plant. Detailed planting instructions are included
in Appendix 8.
If plastic net cups are not available or are too costly, it is possible to use regular
plastic drinking cups. Follow the planting procedure as outlined in the previous
paragraph making sure to add many holes to the plastic drink cup so the roots have
plenty of access into the grow pipe. Other
FIGURE 4.65 growers have had success with flexible, open-cell
Plant support materials showing grow medium foam to support the plants within the grow pipe.
and net cup
If none of these options is available or desired,
it is possible to transplant the seedlings directly
into the pipes, particularly rectangular pipes
(Figure 4.67). Seedlings can be transplanted
with their germination medium, which will
wash away into the system or the roots can be
carefully rinsed, which keeps medium out of the
system but can increase the transplant stress.
Nevertheless, it is preferable to use net cups
filled with media.
When initially planting the seedlings into the
pipe, make sure the roots can touch the stream

Full size lettuce harvested from a nutrient film Lettuce plant grown without a net cup directly in
technique unit. Net cup and PVC extender are a grow pipe
clearly visible
of water at the bottom of the pipe.

This will ensure that the young
seedlings do not become dehydrated.
Alternatively, wicks can be added
that trail into the water stream. In
addition, it is advisable to water the
seedlings with aquaponic water one
week prior to transplanting them
to the unit. This will help mitigate
against transplant shock for the
plants as they become accustomed
to the new water.
4.5 Deep Water Culture technique

The DWC method involves suspending plants in polystyrene sheets, with their roots
hanging down into the water (Figures 4.68 and 4.69). This method is the most common
for large commercial aquaponics growing one specific crop (typically lettuce, salad
leaves or basil, Figure 4.70), and is more suitable for mechanization. On a small-scale,
this technique is more complicated than media beds, and may not be suitable for some
locations, especially where access to materials is limited.
FIGURE 4.68
Illustration of a small deep water culture unit using a media bed as filtration

FIGURE 4.69
Illustration of a small deep water culture unit using standalone filtration
Fish tank Filter Plant growing area
FIGURE 4.70
A large deep water culture unit The water flow dynamics in DWC are almost
identical to those through an NFT. The water
flows by gravity from the fish tank, through
the mechanical filter, and into the combination
biofilter/sump. From the sump, the water
is pumped in two directions through a “Y”
connector and valves. Some water is pumped
directly back to the fish tank. The remaining
water is pumped into the manifold, which
distributes the water equivalently through the
canals. The water flows, again by gravity, through
the grow canals where the plants are located and
exits on the far side. On exiting the canals the
water is returned to the biofilter/sump, where again it is pumped either into the fish
tank or canals. The water that enters the fish tank causes the fish tank to overflow
through the exit pipe and back into mechanical filter, thus completing the cycle.
This “Figure 8” configuration describes the path of the water seen in the DWC
system. As in the NFT, the water flows through the mechanical filter and the biofilter
before being pumped back to the fish tank and the plant canals. One drawback in
this configuration is that the combination sump/biofilter returns part of the effluent
water from the plant canals back to the plants. However, unlike in the NFT where the
nutrients in the small film of water flowing at root level quickly become depleted, the
large volume of water contained in the DWC canals allows for considerable amounts
of nutrients to be used by plants. Such nutrient availability would also suggest different
system designs. A serial distribution of water along the DWC canals can be constructed
by simply using a “cascade” configuration with only a single inlet serving the farthest
tank. In this case, the outlet of one tank would be the inlet of the successive one, and
the increased water flow would help the roots to access a higher flow of nutrients.
In the DWC system shown in Figure 4.68, water is pumped from the biofilter
container into canals that have polystyrene sheets floating on top supporting the plant.
The flow rate of the water entering each canal is relatively low. Generally, every canal
has 1–4 hours of retention time. Retention time is a similar concept to turnover rate, and
refers to the amount of time it takes to replace all the water in a container. For example,
if the water volume of one canal is 600 litres and the flow rate of water entering the
container is 300 litres/h, the retention time would be 2 hours (600 litres ÷ 300 litres/h).
4.5.2 Mechanical and biological filtration

Mechanical and biological filtration in DWC units is the same as in NFT units which
is described in Section 4.4.2.
4.5.3 DWC grow canals, construction and planting

Canals can be of variable lengths, from one to
FIGURE 4.71
tens of metres (Figure 4.71). In general, their
A small-scale deep water culture aquaponic unit.
length is not an issue, as seen in the NFT, because Plant roots visible below the polystyrene raft
the large volume of water enables adequate
nutrient supply. Optimal plant nutrition in very
long canals should always allow for adequate
water inflow and re-oxygenation to ensure
that nutrients are not depleted and that roots
can breathe. As far as the width is concerned,
it is generally recommended to be the standard
width of a sheet of polystyrene, but it can
be multiples of this. However, narrower and
longer canals enable a higher water speed that
can beneficially hit the roots with larger flows
of nutrients. The choice of width should also
consider accessibility by the operator. The recommended depth is 30 cm to allow for
adequate plant root space. Similar to fish tanks, canals can be made out of any strong
inert material that can hold water. For small-scale units, popular materials include
fabricated IBC plastic containers or fibreglass. Much larger canals can be constructed
using wood lengths or concrete blocks lined with food-grade waterproof sheeting.
If using concrete, make sure it is sealed with non-toxic, waterproof sealer to avoid
potential toxic minerals leaching from the concrete into the system water.
As mentioned above, the retention time for each canal in a unit is 1–4 hours,
regardless of the actual canal size. This allows for adequate replenishment of nutrients
in each canal, although the volume of water and the amount of nutrients in the
deep canals is sufficient to nourish the plants over longer periods. Plant growth will
definitely benefit from faster flow rates and turbulent water because roots will be hit
by many more ions; whereas slower flows and almost stagnant water would have a
negative impact on plant growth.
Aeration for DWC units is vital. In a densely planted canal, the oxygen demand for
plants can cause DO levels to plummet below the minimum. Any decomposing solid
waste present in the canal would exacerbate this problem, further diminishing DO.
Thus, aeration is required. The simplest method is to place several small air stones in
the canals (Figure 4.72). The air stones should
release about 4 liters of air per minute, and be
FIGURE 4.72
arranged every 2–4 m2 of canal area. In addition,
Air stone used inside a deep water culture canal
Venturi siphons (see Section 4.2.5) can be added
to the water inflow pipes to aerate the water as
it enters the canal. Finally, the Kratky method of
DWC can be used (Figure 4.73). In this method,
a space of 3–4 cm is left between the polystyrene
and the water body inside the canal. This
allows air to circulate around the top section
of the plant roots. This approach removes the
need for air stones in the canal as sufficient
amounts of oxygen in the air are supplied to
the roots. Another advantage of this method
is the avoidance of direct contact of the plant
stems with water, which reduces the risks of

FIGURE 4.73
An illustration of the Kratky method for deep plant diseases at the collar zone. Moreover, the
water culture showing the separation between increased ventilation as a result of the increased
the raft and the water surface air space favours heat dissipation from water,
which is ideal in hot climates
Do not add any fish into the canals that could
eat the plant roots, e.g. herbivorous fish such as
tilapia and carp. However, some small carnivorous
fish species, such as guppies, mollies, or mosquito
fish, can be used successfully to manage mosquito
Raft larvae, which can become a huge nuisance to
workers and neighbours in some areas.
The polystyrene sheets should have a certain
Air or
oxygen roots number of holes drilled to fit the net cups
Moist air space (or sponge cubes) used for supporting each
plant (Figure 4.74). The amount and location
Water and
nutrient roots
of the holes is dictated by the vegetable type
and the distance desired between the plants,
where smaller plants can be spaced more closely.
Appendix 8 includes specific details and helpful
FIGURE 4.74 hints on how to drill the holes.
Polystyrene sheet in a small deep water culture Seedlings can be started in a dedicated plant
unit showing planting holes nursery (see Section 8.3) in soil blocks or
a soil-less medium. Once these seedlings are
large enough to handle, they can be transferred
into net cups and planted into the DWC unit
(Figure 4.75). The remaining space in the net cup
should be filled with hydroponic media, such as
volcanic gravel, rockwool or LECA, to support
the seedling. It is also possible to simply plant
a seed straight into the net cups on top of the
media. This method is sometimes recommended
if vegetable seeds are accessible because it avoids
the transplant shock during replanting. When
harvesting, be sure to remove the whole plant, including roots and dead leaves, from
the canal. After harvest the rafts should be cleaned but not left to dry so as to avoid
killing the nitrifying bacteria on the submerged surface of the raft. Large scale units
should clean the rafts with water to remove dirt and plant residues and immediately
repositioned in the canals to avoid any stress to the nitrifying bacteria.
FIGURE 4.75
Step by step procedure of placing a seedling and gravel (a) into a net cup (b) and placing it into the
polystyrene raft in the deep water culture unit (c)
a b c
4.5.4 Special case DWC: low fish density, no filters

Aquaponic DWC units can be designed that do not require external additional filtration
(Figure 4.76). These units carry a very low stocking density of fish (i.e. 1–1.5 kg of fish
per m3 of fish tank), and then rely mainly on the plant root space and interior area
of the canals as the surface area to house the nitrifying bacteria. Simple mesh screens
capture the large solid waste, and the canals serve as settling tanks for fine waste. The
advantage to this method is the reduction in initial economic investment and capital
costs, while at the same time eliminating the need for additional filter containers and
materials, which can be difficult and expensive to source in some locations. However,
lower stocking densities will lead to lower fish production. At the same time, many
aquaponic ventures make the vast majority of their profits on the plant yield rather than
the fish production, essentially only using the fish as a source of nutrients. Often, this
method requires nutrient supplementation to ensure plant growth. If considering this
method, it is worth to assessing the desired fish and plant production and considering
the relative costs and gains.
FIGURE 4.76
Illustration of a small deep water culture without a mechanical solid separator or biofilter
Fish
Fish tank
tank Filter Plant growing area
Plant growing area
Water flow dynamics

The main difference between the two designs (high fish stocking vs. low fish stocking)
is that the low- density design does not use either of the external filtration containers,
mechanical or biological. Water flows by gravity from the fish tank straight into DWC
canals, passing through a very simple mesh screen. Water is then returned either to a
sump and pumped back to the fish tanks, or directly to the fish tanks without a sump.
Water in both the fish tanks and canals is aerated using an air pump. The fish waste is
broken down by nitrifying and mineralizing bacteria living on the plant root surface
and the canal walls.
The fish stocking density is a continuum, stretching from very low densities that
do not need filters all the way up to very high densities that need dedicated external
filters. One simple solution to procure additional mineralization and biofiltration
and to avoid waste accumulation of solids at the bottom of the canals consists in
combining the simple mesh screen with a basket of pea gravel or clay balls positioned
just above the water level where the water exits the fish tank. The basket would act as
a trickling filter with its media trapping and mineralizing the solids. The water falling
from the basket would also add oxygen through its splash effect. In addition, the
use of pea gravel would have a buffering action against water acidification following
nitrification. Another option can include an internal biofilter within the fish tank,
consisting of a simple mesh bag of biofilter material near an air stone. This can help to
ensure adequate biofiltration without adding to the cost of external biofilters. Finally,
increasing the overall water volume without increasing the fish stocking density,
basically using large fish tanks for few fish, can help to mitigate water quality issues
by diluting wastes and ensuring adequate time for the farmer to respond to changes
before the fish become stressed, though this can dilute the available nutrients and
hinder vegetable growth.
The lower fish density also means that the water flow rate can be lower. A smaller
pump can be used, reducing the cost, but ensure that at least half of the total fish tank
volume is exchanged per hour. In fact, some researchers have had success with removing
the electric pump all together and relying on manual labour to cycle the water twice per
day. However, these systems are utterly dependent on adequate aeration. Other than
these differences, the recommendations for fish tanks and DWC canal construction are
applicable for this low stocking density method.
Low stocking density unit management

The major difference from the management of the other units, discussed in more
detail in Chapter 8, is the lower stocking density. The suggested stocking density for
these types of systems is 1–5 kg/m3 (compare to 10–20 kg/m3 for other systems in this
manual). Previously, it has been suggested that the balance between fish and plants
follows the feed rate ratio, which helps to calculate the amount of fish feed entering
the system given a set growing area for the plants. These low stocking density units
still follow the suggested daily feed rate ratio of 40–50 g/m2, but should be towards
the lower end. A useful technique is to allow fish to feed for 30 minutes, 2–3 times per
day, and then remove all uneaten food. Overfeeding will result in an accumulation of
waste in the fish tanks and canals, leading to anoxic zones, poor growing conditions,
diseases, and fish and plant stress. Always, but especially when using this method
without filters, be sure to monitor water quality conditions closely, and reduce feeding
if high ammonia or nitrite levels are detected.
Advantages and disadvantages of low stocking density

The major advantage is a simpler unit. This system is easier to construct and cheaper
to begin, having lower capital costs. The fish are less stressed because they are grown
in more spacious conditions. Overall, this technique can be very useful for initial
projects with low capital. These systems can be very useful for growing high-value fish,
such as ornamental fish, or specialty crops, such as medicinal herbs, where the lower
production is compensated with higher value.
However, a serious disadvantage is that these units are hard to scale up. Fewer plants
and fish are grown in a given area, so they are less intensive than some of the systems
previously outlined. In order to produce a large amount of food, these systems would
become prohibitively large. Essentially, the external mechanical and biofilters are what
allow aquaponics to be very intensive within a small area.
Furthermore, fish production cannot function independently from the hydroponic
component; plants must be in the canals at all times. The plant roots provide the area
for bacteria growth, and without these roots the biofiltration would not be sufficient
to keep the water clean for the fish. If it were ever necessary to harvest all the plants
at once, which can occur during disease outbreaks, season changes or major climate
events, the reduced biofiltration would cause high ammonia and fish stress. On the
other hand, with external mechanical and biofilters the fish production can continue
without the hydroponics as a standard RAS.
4.6 Comparing aquaponic techniques

Table 4.2 below provides a quick reference and comparative summary of the various
aquaponic culture systems described above.
table 4.2
Strengths and weaknesses of main aquaponic techniques
System type Strengths Weaknesses
Media bed units Simple and forgiving design Very heavy, depending on choice of media
Ideal for beginners Media can be expensive
Alternative/recycled parts can be used Media can be unavailable
Tall fruiting vegetables are supported Unwieldy at large scale
All types of plants can be grown Higher evaporation than NFT and DWC
Multiple irrigation techniques Labour-intensive to construct
Many types of media can be used Flood-and-drain cycles require careful
High aeration when using bell siphons calculation of water volume
Relatively low electrical energy Media can clog at high stocking density
Medium captures and mineralizes solids Plant transplanting is more labour-intensive

as the media needs to be moved
If water delivery is not uniform, plant
performance may differ from bed to bed
NFT units More cost-effective than media beds on More complex filtration method
large scale Water pump and air pump are mandatory
Ideal for herbs and leafy green vegetables Cannot directly seed
Minimal water loss by evaporation Low water volume magnifies water quality
Light weight system issues
Best method for rooftops Increases variability in water temperature
Very simple harvesting methods with stress on fish
Pipes spacing can be adjusted to suit Water inlet pipes can easily clog
different plants Vulnerable to power outages
Well researched by commercial
hydroponic ventures
Smallest water volume required
Minimal labour to plant and harvest
DWC units More cost-effective method than media More complex filtration method
beds on large scale Very heavy unit
Large water volume dampens changes in
High dissolved oxygen required in the
water quality
canal, and a more sophisticated air pump is
Can withstand short interruptions in required
electricity
Plastic liners must be food-grade
Minimal water loss by evaporation
Polystyrene sheets are easily broken
Well researched by commercial
hydroponic ventures Tall plants are more difficult to support
Polystyrene rafts insulate water from Large water volume increases humidity and
heat losses/gains keeping constant the risk of fungal disease
temperatures
Shifting rafts can facilitate planting and
harvest
Rafts provide biofilter surface area
DWC canals can be fixed with plastic
liners using almost any kind of wall
(wood, steel frames, metal profiles)
Can be used at multiple stocking densities
4.7 Chapter summary

• The main factors when deciding where to place a unit are: stability of ground;
access to sunlight and shading; exposure to wind and rain; availability of utilities;
and availability of a greenhouse or shading structure.
• There are three main types of aquaponics: the media bed method, also known as
particulate bed; the nutrient film technique (NFT) method; and the deep water
culture (DWC) method, also known as the raft method or floating system.
• The essential components for all aquaponic units are: the fish tank, the mechanical
and biological filtration, the plant growing units (media beds, NFT pipes or DWC
canals), and the water/air pumps.
• The media beds must: (i) be made of strong inert material; (ii) have a depth of
about 30 cm; (iii) be filled with media containing a high surface area; (iv) provide
adequate mechanical and biological filtration; (v) provide separate zones for
different organisms to grow; and (vi) be sufficiently wetted through flood-and-
drain or other irrigation techniques to ensure good filtration.
• For NFT and DWC units, mechanical and biofiltration components are necessary
in order to respectively remove the suspended solids and oxidize the dissolved
wastes (ammonia to nitrate).
• For NFT units, the flow rate for each grow pipe should be 1–2 litres/minute to
ensure good plant growth.
• For DWC units each canal should have a retention time of 2–4 hours.
• High DO concentration is essential to secure good fish, plant and bacteria growth.
In the fish tank DO is supplied by means of air stones. Media bed units have an
interface between the wet zone and dry zone that provides a high availability
of atmospheric oxygen. In NFT units, additional aeration is provided into the
biofilter, while in DWC air stones are positioned in both biofilter and plant
canals.

Design of Aquaponic Units

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35

4. Design of aquaponic units

Fish tank Sump Plant growing area

FIGURE 4.3 FIGURE 4.5

Fish tank Filters Plant growing area

FIGURE 4.7 FIGURE 4.8

Fish tank Filters Plant growing area

FIGURE 4.11 FIGURE 4.12

4.1 Site selection

4.1.2 Exposure to wind, rain and snow

4.1.3 Exposure to sunlight and shade

4.1.4 Utilities, fences and ease of access

4.1.5 Special considerations: rooftop

FIGURE 4.17 FIGURE 4.18

4.1.6 Greenhouses and shading net structures

FIGURE 4.19 FIGURE 4.20

4.2 Essential components of an aquaponic unit

4.2.1 Fish tank

Covers and shading

Failsafe and redundancy

there is no way for the tank to drain without a

4.2.2 Filtration – mechanical and

Mechanical separators (clarifiers)

clarifier at the top, through a large slotted outlet FIGURE 4.25

The biofilter is designed to have a large

Using a media bed for a combination of

4.2.3 Hydroponic components –

FIGURE 4.35 FIGURE 4.36

FIGURE 4.37 FIGURE 4.38

FIGURE 4.39 FIGURE 4.40

4.2.4 Water movement

Submersible impeller water pump

aeration system more efficient and contributes

Sizing aeration systems

4.2.6 Sump tank

between one-fourth and one-third of the volume FIGURE 4.47

4.2.7 Plumbing materials

4.2.8 Water testing kits

4.3 The Media Bed technique

4.3.1 Water flow dynamics

Fish tank Sump Plant growing area

4.3.2 Media bed construction

over (Figure 4.52). Small leafy green vegetables

4.3.3 Choice of medium

Several common media meeting the criteria are discussed include:5</<<<,

Volcanic gravel (tuff)

Light expanded clay aggregate

Other possible media choices

Expanded clay Medium–

Displacement of water by media

4.3.5 The three zones of media beds – characteristics and processes

Wet & dry zone

Wet & dry zone

4.3.6 Irrigating media beds

Water flow dynamics

Main components of a bell siphon

is that there is no autosiphon, which can be labour-intensive to calibrate. However, the

Water flow dynamics

4.4 Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)