TEXRILE TESTING

PRACTICAL RECORD

0
 INDEX
SR.N EXPERIMENT PAGE DATE OF DATE OF REMARKS
O EXPERIMENT SUBMISSION
1 FABRIC CONSTRUCTION 1-3
2 FABRIC WEIGHT 4-5
3 YARN COUNT 6-11
4 TENSILE STRENGTH 12-27
5 TEARING STRENGTH 28-36
6 BURSTING STRENGTH 37-43
7 ABRASION RESISTANCE 44-52
TEST
8 PILLING RESISTANCE 53-60
9 AIR PERMEABILITY 61-62
10 WRINKLE RESISTANCE 63-64
11 FABRIC DRAPE 65-67
12 DIMENSION STABILITY 68-70
13 FABRIC STIFFNESS 71-73
14 FLAMMABILITY 74-76
15 SNAGGING 77-80
16 C.F TO CROCKING 81-82
17 C.F TO PERSPIRATION 83-84
18 C.F TO WASHING 85
19 C.F TO LIGHT 86-87
20 C.F TO CHLORINE 88-89
21 C.F TO HOT PRESSING 90-91
22 C.F TO FROSTING 92
23 C.F TO SALIVA 93-94
24
25
26

1
 27
EXPERIMENT – 1

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
PRINCIPLE
The number of warp (ends) and filling (picks) for woven fabric or wales
and courses for knitted fabric per unit distance are determined by using
suitable magnifying and counting devices.

PROCEDURE

 Take at least specimens greater than 5 x 5 cm (2 x 2 in.) from each

different places.

 The yarn construction should b done in the middle and not at the edge
of the specimen.

 Place the pick glass on the specimen resting on a flat surface. Look
through the pick glass to determine whether the counting can be done
more easily on the face or on the back. Count on either face or back,
whichever is easier.

 Line up the left edge of the opening in the base of the pick glass with the
first yarn to be counted.

 Use pick needle to point to the yarns as they are counted from one edge
to the opposite edge of the base of the pick glass.

 Calculate the average fabric (thread) count of the three specimens for
each direction of the fabric.

2
RESULTS

3
EXPERIMENT – 2

FABRIC WEIGHT

AIM

To determine the weight of textile, plastic sheeting or film, and paper

products.

PRINCIPLE

Specimens of known area are prepared, conditioned, and weighed.

PROCEDURE

Using the cutting die, cut out three specimens from different areas of a sample
unit.

Weigh each specimen to the nearest 1/100 of a gram. To convert this weight
into ozs./sq. yd and grams / sq . meter

CALCULATION
Fabric weight in grams / sq. meter = weight of 1 sq cms sample x 100000.

Fabric weight in Ouces / sq. yards = Fabric weight in grams per sq. meter /
33.33.

4
RESULTS

5
EXPERIMENT – 3

YARN COUNT
AIM

Irrespective of the system of yarn numbering employed, whether direct or

indirect two basic requirements of the determination of the yarn number are

1. An accurate value for the length of the sample

2. An accurate value for its weight

The method of determining the yarn numbering depending upon to a large

extent on the form in which the yarn is available for testing. The count of yarn

is a numerical expression, which defines its fineness. It is also called as yarn

number or linear density. The fineness of the yarn cannot be expressed easily

in terms of diameter as in case of wire or cords. Instrument is necessarily used

to determine the count of the yarn.

PRINCIPLE

6
Beesley Balance works on the principle fixed weight and fixed length system. It

is used for assorting the count of the warp and weft yarn from a sample of

fabric.

EQUIPMENT

It consists of a pillar A which carries a cross beam B, fulcrum-med at knife-

edge at a point G. At one end crossbeam is a hook E upon which the yarn to be

tested can be placed. The other end of the beam tapers to a point C. when the

beam is in balance, the pointer will coincide with the datum line or the arrow

mark on the beam. The pillar is mounted on the base. A leveled screws at one

end of the base levels the whole instrument. The cross beam has a small notch

at the point D to take the counter weight or rider. A template is also supplied

with the instrument and it can be used to measure the full cotton, ½ cotton

lengths, and sample of the woolen and worsted yarns. Depending upon the

material to be tested and the quality available, the said length to chosen to cut

the samples of length correspondingly marked.

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE

 The pointer is set directly opposite to the datum line, with no material

and counter weight in there proper place, by adjusting the leveling

screw.

7
  The counter weight (rider) for the particular length which is supplied

with the instrument is chosen and suspended at notch D.

 Sample is prepared as per the standard sampling method. Both in warp

and weft way.

 The samples are added to the sample hook, until the pointer comes in

level with the datum line.

 As the pointer comes in level with the datum line the threads are taken

out and counted which gives directly the count of the yarn taken for

testing.

If the count of the yarn is ply twisted

For example for two ply

1/N +1/N = 2/N

N = count of the yarn in Indirect system

OR

N + N = 2N

N = count of the yarn in Direct system

8
CALCULATION AND RESULT

Type of sample

Number of ply in the yarn

Filament fiber or staple fiber

SI No Count of the warp yarn Count of Weft Yarn

10

Averag

9
 e Count

SD

CV%

INDIRECT SYSTEM

If the count of the yarn is ply twisted

For example for two ply

1/N +1/N = 2/N

N = count of the yarn in Indirect system

DIRECT SYSTEM

N + N = 2N

N = count of the yarn in Direct system

10
RESULT

Description Warp Weft

Average count of

yarn
SD
CV %

11
EXPERIMENT- 4

FABRIC BREAKING STRENGTH ( TENSILE STRENGTH )

AIM
Most of the textile raw materials, the property that is of prime importance, to

determine their suitability for any particular application, is its tensile strength

and elongation. It is therefore of utmost importance to determine these

characteristics accurately.

To determine the breaking strength of a woven, non-woven or coated fabric

using the grab Method, raveled method and to determine the seam strength

and seam slippage of fabric. Strength of a fabric is generally considered the

most obvious indicator of the service life of a fabric. Also the strength of fabric

indicates its ability to resist mechanical damage due to stress of normal wear

and refurbishing.

PRINCIPLE

The instrument is works on the principle of Constant rate of Elongation (CRE).

A continually increasing load is applied lengthwise or widthwise to the

specimen, and the test is carried to fabric rupture. Values for the breaking load

of the test specimen are obtained from machine scales, and digital indicator.

12
Equipment is ergonomically designed equipment, which is based on the

Constant rate of Elongation (CRE) principle. The sample is held between two

jaws, the lower one is stationery jaw while other upper jaw is made to move at

a preset speed with the help of geared motor and lead screw arrangement.

The load is extended on the movable jaw is sensed by a sensitive sensor

connected with load cell which directly indicates the load in digital form in Kilo

gram Force (Kg.F)

TECHNICAL DETAILS OF TENSILE TESTING INSTRUMENT

Capacity of the Tester : 0 - 250 Kg.

Sensitivity : 100 Gms.

Speed of Machine : 0 to 375 mm (Can be set by fine speed Regulator)

Minimum jaw separation : 25 mm

Maximum jaw separation : 450 mm

Motor : HP, controlled by fine

Load measurement : Digital display indicates the max. Load exerted on

the load cell during the test with peak value & zero setting switch.

13
Elongation Measurement : Digital Display Indicates the continues

elongation in Millimeter.

Electric Controls : By Rotary switch’s Controls load & unload movement

and also stopping with the help of afrequency drive.

Power Supply : 230 + 10 % volts AC, Single Phase, 50/60 Hz

Overload Protection : Micro switches for over-travel protection.

Dimensions : 700(L), 390(W), 1650(H) mm

SELECTING THE SPEED OF THE MACHINE

The speed is selected by changing the belt on the groove of the pulleys. There

are two set of pulleys.

300mm / Minute - Grab Test, Strip test

75mm/ minute – Seam Strength and seam Slippage

14
 1. Base of the Unit.

2. Control Panel.

3. Holding Bush for Lower Jaw.

4. Specimen (Test Cloth).

5. Holding Bush for Upper Jaw.

6. Microprocessor Based Calibrated Load Cell Unit (Inside the cover).

RELATED STANDARD

ASTM D 5035, ASTM D 1578

ASTM D 5034, ASTM D 434

15
 REFFERENCE STANDARD

BS EN 1002 – 3

BS 1610

DIN 51221

GRAB TEST

Grab test is applicable to woven and non-woven and felt fabrics this test

method is not recommended for glan fabrics or knitted fabrics and some other

fabrics which are having high strength (more than 11%).

SAMPLE PREPARATION

Cut each specimen with help of standard template size - 5 samples parallel to

warp thread and 5 samples parallel to weft thread as per standard sampling

method and mark accordingly as below

16
SEAM SLIPPAGE AND SEAM STRENGTH

SAMPLE PREPARATION

Cut each specimen with help of standard template size - 5 samples parallel to

warp thread and 5 samples parallel to weft thread as per standard sampling

method and mark accordingly as below

17
Note: During Testing

 Sample size : Upper portion: 1.5”

Lower portion : 1.5”

Seam (depth) : ½”

 Stitch a seam ½” inch (13mm) away from fold using a needle

approximately 0.030”(076mm) in diameter with approximately 39 Tex

white mercerized cotton or 36 Tex polyester/ cotton core thread.

 The stitch per inch should be 14±1/2 per inch a plain lock stitch

 The stitch should be under uniform tension.

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 The movement of thread should not be restricted by knotting or back

stitching at the end of the specimens.

 Adjust the speed of the upper jaw at 300±10 mm / minute by speed

adjustment knob

 Sample is placed between the jaws in such way that seam should be at

the center of two jaws.

 Provide uniform tension to specimen between the jaws.

 Keep 6mm gauge ready with you for measuring the seam opening. It is

advisable to keep it near the seam before the test starts for the accurate

observation.

 As soon as the seam opening matches the 6mm gauge. Stop the

machine.

 Observe the load on the digital indicator. It is the resistance to the

warp / weft sliding over the weft / warp

 Observe the load on the digital indicator. It is the resistance to the

warp / weft sliding over the weft / warp.

 Some times, before the seam opening the fabric breaks. In that case,

stop the machine. Observe the load and it is the maximum, which the

fabric can with stand, and seam strength is much higher than fabric

strength.

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RESULT INTERPRETATION OF SEAM SLIPPAGE

STP - Seam Thread Problem

FTS - Fabric Torn at Seam

RAVELLED STRIP METHOD

It is a tension test on a strip of fabric in which the specified specimen width is

secured by raveling away yarns.

Note: During Testing

 The specimen should be of width 2” inches and 8” inches test length.

 Sample of 11” x 2.5” inches are cut, the bigger dimension is in the

direction of testing.

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  From the specimen, threads from the both edges are removed ( ¼” )until

the width reduced to 2” exactly.

 The rate of traverse for the top jaw is 12 inches/min (300mm/min) fixed.

CUT STRIP METHOD

It is a tension test a strip of fabric in which the specimen width is secured by

cutting the fabric.

Note: During Testing

 This method of testing is identical to raveled strip method.

 The sample width is 2” inches and the sample length is 8” inches.

 The test specimens are cut for exact width and raveling of threads is

necessary.

 This method is used only for coated or heavy sized fabrics, where the

raveling of the threads is difficult.

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  The procedure of doing the test is the same as that for raveled strip test.

INSTRUMENT - STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE (SOP)

 Switch ON the machine by turning the main switch to ON position.

Indicator will glow.

 Switch ON the Digital Display panel by turning the display switch to ON

position, wait for few seconds for stability. [(-) Negative sign on the

display indicates unstable condition. Please wait till sign goes away].

Now the unit is ready for testing.

 Two sets of jaws are supplied with the instrument, one set of jaws for

Fabric strength testing and another one is for Seam Slippage Testing.

Select the jaws depends upon the type of the test to be undertaken.

 Fix the jaws to its respective position with the help of steel pin provided.

Mount the test specimen to be tested between the jaws. Hold one end

of the test specimen in the upper jaw. The test specimen should be

locate centrally in the jaw. Similarly hold the lower end of the specimen

to the lower jaw. There should be slight tension in the specimen. The

distance between the jaws is to be set as per the test requirement.

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 Digital display should show “ 0 “ at the start of the test. When the

sample is loaded. If the display does not show “ 0.00 “ press the button

marked TARE / ZERO. The display will come to “ 0.00 “

 Before exerting load on the specimen, push the HOLD / PEAK button

Once. This is required to keep the maximum load on display as after the

specimen breaks, load on display gradually comes to “ 0.00 “

automatically.

 If you have not pushed the HOLD / PEAK button before exerting load,

you can also find out the maximum load by pressing the HOLD / PEAK

button after the test, as the maximum load automatically gets stored in

the memory.

 Push the LOAD switch to exert the load on the specimen, upper jaw start

moving upwards and the jaws would stars separating, Rotate the Rotary

to off position when test specimen breaks, note down the reading.

 When specimen breaks stop the motor by pressing OFF switch. The

breaking load (in Kegs . Force) will be displayed on the panel

 For finding the elongation at break take the reading of the elongation

scale immediately after the specimen breaks [Elongation at break =

(Reading of the upper jaw pointer after the specimen breaks) – (Reading

of the upper jaw before the testing of the specimen)].

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 Press the UNLOAD switch for taking upper jaw downward.

 Repeat the test with the number of samples are required.

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CALCULATION AND RESULT
Sample No –

Type of the sample

EPC

PPC

GSM of sample

Warp Count

Weft Count

BREAKING STRENGTH (GRAB TEST, STRIP TEST, CUT STRIP METHOD)

Trial No Breaking Strength in Kg.f Elongation in Millimeter

10

Average

SD

CV%

Result :

25
 SI No Description Warp Weft

01 Breaking Strength

02 % Of Elongation

03 SD

04 CV %

Sample No –

Type of the sample Stitches / inch

EPC Needle Number

PPC Needle Diameter

GSM of sample Stitching Thread Count

Warp Count Needle Count

Weft Count Seam Type and Stitch

Type

SEAM STRENGTH AND SLIPPAGE

Trial No Seam Strength in Kg.f Seam Opening observation

(At 6 mm Gauge)

26
8

10

Average

SD

CV%

RESULT
SI No Description Warp Weft

01 Seam Strength

02 Seam Opening at

03 SD

04 CV %

EXPERIMENT – 5

FABRIC TEARING STRENGTH

PURPOSE AND SCOPE

To determine the tearing strength of woven fabrics. Tear strength or resistance

to tearing is of importance in fabrics such as those used for shirting, blouses,

dresses, interlining, etc. Tear strength tests are not suitable for knit fabrics,

felt, or non-woven fabrics with the possible exception of machine direction

tears in some lightweight non-woven fabrics.

27
PRINCIPLE: (Elmendorf)

Force required to propagate a rip starting from a cut in a woven fabric is

measured by grasping fabric with a movable clamp on one side, and by a fixed

clamp on the other side, with the fabric split centered between the two

clamps. Then as the pendulum is released, the specimen is torn at the split.

The tearing force, in grams, is read directly off of the graduated scale on the

pendulum.

EQUIPMENT

Instrument is completely made of stainless steel. It consists of a sector

pendulum pivoted on anti-friction ball bearings on a vertical bracket fixed on a

rigid metallic base. The test specimen in shape of a rectangular piece is held

between two Jaws, one of which is mounted on the pendulum and the other is

mounted on the Vertical Arm. The Jaws clamps are mounted in such a manner

that their holding faces are aligned with each other when the pendulum is

locked in its raised position. An adjustable knife is also mounted on the Vertical

Arm. It is centered between the two Jaws for making initial slit in the test

specimen. The pendulum is released by lifting a brake release lever. This action

causes the test specimen to tear right through. The tearing strength is

indicated on a calibrated scale fitted on the pendulum by a fine pointer. A Set

28
of calibrated check weights are supplied with the tester for Verification

calibration of the scale at 3200, 6400 and 12800 Gms. Capacities. In order to

increase the capacity of the tester, from 3200 gms augmenting weights of 6400

gms. & 12800 Gms are supplied as standard Accessories.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Capacity : 3200 gms (By adding Augmenting weights)

: 6400 gms (By adding Augmenting weights)

: 12800 gms (By adding Augmenting weights)

Clamping surfaces of each clamp : 35.5 mm Length x 15.5mm width

Distance between clamps : 2.5+0.25mm

Tearing Distance : 43+0.15mm

Slit Size : 20+0.2 mm

Balancing weight main pendulum : 50 x 50 x 2.5 mm

Main pendulum : 240 (R) x 5 (T) mm

Template Size : As per ASTM Standard

29
1. Adjustable Foot Rests – 04

2. Base of the Unit.

3. Sprit Level. (To check Balancing).

4. Augmenting Weight.

5. Sector Pendulum.

6. Calibration Scale.

7. Pointer Pin.

8. Bearing Housing Assembly.

9. Tightening Knob (Jaws).

10. Knife Holder Assembly. (Cutting Level).

11. Spring of Knife.

12. Brake Release Lever.

30
13. Name Sticker

PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMEN

 Mark the specimen with the help of the specimen template supplied

with the equipment.

 Cut the Warp set with short dimension parallel to weft yarns and weft

set with short dimension parallel to warp yarns.

 While cutting the test specimens take care to align the yarn running in

short direction parallel to the template.

 Each set of warp set should have different warp yarns and each

specimen of weft set should have different weft yarns.

 Prepare at least ten specimens of each type.

31
PREPARATION OF THE EQUIPMENT BEFORE TESTING

 Placement of the instrument on a stable surface.

 Checking the friction in the pendulum bearings.

 Adjustment of “Zero” by Zero setting Block.

 Checking the friction of the pointer assembly

 Checking the size of Slit (20 mm)

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE

 Raise the sector pendulum till it rests against the Release Brake lever.

Open both the Jaws and insert the test specimen between the Jaws so

that it is located centrally in the two Jaws and the bottom edge of the

specimen is touching the bottom edge of the Jaws. Tighten the Jaws in

this position. The jaws should hold the specimen under the

approximately the same force.

 Push the knife holder to make the slit in the test specimen, raising it till

the knife goes up to the maximum extent possible. Lower the knife to its

initial position.

 Move the pointer till it rests against the zero setting block. Lift brake

release lever to release the sector pendulum. If the specimen slips in the

grips or if the tear deviates by more than 6 mm away from the

32
 projection of the original slit. Reject the reading and Repeat the test

with a fresh specimen.

 Repeat the test till at least five specimens of both warp and weft

directions are tested. Reject any reading differing by more than 9% of

the mean. Find the average of the remaining readings in the warp and

the weft directions.

 It is recommended that the capacity chosen should be such that the

tearing value obtained lies between 20% to 80% of the range. For

specimens, which either do not tear fully or absorb more than 80% of

the energy, the capacity of the tear tester can be increased by addition

of augmenting weights.

 If the value of energy absorbed in the smallest range falls below 20% of

the range can be decreased by removing of augmenting weights. If the

tearing strength below the 3200 grams capacity add two or more

specimens from the same sample may be held in the grips and tested

together.

33
CALCULATION AND RESULT

Sample No –
Type of the sample

EPC

PPC
Trial NO
GSM Tearing Force / Strength % warp wise
of sample Tearing Force / Strength in %

Warp Count Weft wise

01
Weft Count
02
Fabric Thickness
03

04

34
 05

06

07

08

09

10

Average

SD

CV %

Warp wise Tearing strength (g) = K x Mean Value of scale reading /100 (warp
wise)
Weft wise Tearing strength (g) = K x Mean Value of scale reading /100 (weft
wise)
NOTE: K = 3200 OR 6400 OR 12800

RESULT

Description Warp Weft

Tearing Force or Strength in Grams

Standard Deviation

Coefficient of variation in %

35
EXPERIMENT-6

BURSTING STRENGTH

AIM

To determine the amount of force required to rupture a knit fabric or non-

woven fabric. Strength of fabric is generally associated with the serviceability

of the fabric.

PRINCIPLE

A specimen of the fabric is clamped over an expandable diaphragm. The

diaphragm is expanded by pneumatic or fluid pressure to the point of

specimen rupture. The force is applied equally in All directions on the

specimen.

36
REFERENCE

ASTM D 3786-01, Standard Test Method for pneumatic or hydraulic Bursting

Strength of Knitted Goods and No woven Fabrics - Diaphragm Bursting

Strength Tester Method

TECHNICAL DETAILS OF BURSTING STRENGTH INSTRUMENT

Equipment Bursting Capacity : 70 kg/cm²

Opening in upper clamp : 31.5 mm diameter

Opening in lower clamp : 30.5 mm diameter

Geared Motor : 1/4 HP, 60 RPM ,Single Phase AC

Pressure Sensor : Pressure Transducer Sensor

Least count of sensor : 0.01 kg.

Power Supply : 230 + 10 % Volt, 50 Hz, Single Phase AC

Compressor Specificatio : 5kg/cm²

Dimensions of the Instrument : 660 (L) x 585 (W) x 508

26” (W) x 23” (D) x 20” (H) Inch

Net Weight of the Instrument : 100 Kg. (Approx.) (220 lbs)

37
1.Main body of the unit.

2.Acrylic Cone for specimen holding (Upper Clamp).

3.Pneumatic Wheel (To tighten / loosen the sample).

4.Clamping Button.

5.Digital load indicator (Cap. 35 kg / cm²).

6.Zero Setting Knob.

7.Peak Knob.

8.Mains ON/OFF Switch.

9.Push Type Pressure Regulator.

10.Main’s operation Switch (Also Auto Reverse Switch).

11.Pressure Gauge to check Air pressure.

12.Diaphragm holding Clamp.

13.Lower Clamp.

38
OBSERVATION BEFORE TESTING

 Condition the specimens for a minimum of 2 hours with 21° +/- 1C (70°

+/- 2F) and 65% +/-2% RH.

 Make sure gauge pointers are at the zero position.

 Check the operation of the testing by bursting at least 2 specimens of

standard aluminum sheet. The average of the indicated bursting

resistance for the 2 specimens of aluminum sheet should be between +/-

5% of that marked on the package of the aluminum sheet standard

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE (SOP)

 Make a specimen of 5” x 5” size. Take at least six specimens from the

different places of the Fabric/Garments as per standard sampling

method.

 Ensure Upper Clamp (Jaw for fixing sample) is in upward position

 Check for the Rubber Diaphragm unit in the Lower Clamp. It must be

secure and without any pressure.

 Switch ON the Mains

39
 Switch ON the compressor & adjust the Air Pressure between 4 to 5

kg/cm2. with the help of Air Press regulator & Lock the Regulator by

pushing it down.

 Now place one specimen on the lower clamp and press the clamping

button the specimen will be tighten between the two clamps under the

sufficient pressure to minimize slippage.

 If the digital display shows “0” than process to next step, else press the

Zero button & reading will become “0”.

 Once the specimen is securely fixed press main operating switch the

pressure will begun to mount and you will noticed that the Rubber

Diaphragm inside the clamps will starts inflecting. At one point the

sample will burst. Release the main operating switch immediately. After

the button is released the main machine will go in the reverse mode

automatically & display will come back to “O” zero.

 The peak value at which the sample has been burst will be automatically

recorded. Press the peak button & get this value. Note the reading.

 Repeat this for all samples

 Take average off all tests sample and calculate the result.

CALCULATION

OBSERVATION DATA

40
 1. Type of knit Sample used

2. Wales / inch

3. Course / inch

4. GSM of the sample

5. Thickness of the sample

BURSTING STRENGTH

SI No Bursting strength in Kgs / cm2

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Averag
e
SD
C V%

41
RESULT

SI Description of specimen Result

No

01 Average Bursting Strength in Kgs / cm2

02 Average Bursting strength in Lbs / cm2

03 Average Bursting strength in Lbs / inch2

04 Standard Deviation

05 Coefficient Variation %

42
EXPERIMENT – 7

ABRASION RESISTANCE TEST

AIM

To determine the resistance to the wearing away of any part of material when

rubbed against another material. The adequate abrasion resistance of woven

or knitted textile materials is essential for consumer acceptance and

satisfaction. Fraying cuffs and collars, worn seats and elbows, threadbare

sheets, etc., are the result of abrasive action.

PRINCIPLE

A specimen is abraded by rubbing either uni-directionally or multi-directionally

against an abradant having specified surface characteristics. The specimen is

held in a fixed position and supported by an inflated rubber diaphragm, which

is held under a constant pressure. Resistance to abrasion is evaluated by fabric

failure and/or visual rating.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Scope : Flat Woven, Knitted and certain non-woven

fabrics

43
No. of specimens : 4

Sample size : 38 mm Diameter

Size of Standard Ardent material : 140 mm Diameter

Size of standard polyurethane foam : 38 mm Diameter for sample

140 mm Diameter for standard ardent

Working pressure on test specimen : 9 kPa (apparel)

12kPa (upholstery)

Rotational speed of outer pegs : 47.5 ± 2.5 r/min.

Total Stroke of outer and inner pegs : 60.5 ± 0.5 mm

CIRCUMFERENTIAL PARALLELISM OF SAMPLE

Power Supply : 230 V AC, Single Phase

Power Consumption : 150 Watt

Frequency : 50 Hz.

44
1.Main body of the unit.

2.Control Panel.

3.Ring Holding Pin

4.Steel ball platform (One steel ball to be put in this)

5..Bearing Pegs (03 Nos.)

6.Abrading Platform.

7.Specimen holder opener (Open & tighten).

8.Loading Pin.

9.Finger insertion space to lift the top Plate.

10.Dead Weight (12 Kpa or 9 Kpa).

11.Top Moving Plate.

45
PREPARING SAMPLE FOR ABRASION TEST

1. We have to use the standard abrading FELT of 140 mm diameter

supplied with the equipment

2. We have to use four number of standard polyurethane Foams 38 mm

diameter as per the standard

3. We have to cut four number of Specimen Fabrics (Sample to be tested)

38 mm diameter with the help of sample cutter.

PROCEDURE TO UNDER TAKE ABRASION TEST

 Remove the top moving plate

 Remove the clamping Rings

 Place a standard abrading felt 140 mm diameter on the abrading

platform and cover it with the abrading fabric 140 mm diameter.

 Put a unceasing load (bigger) in the center of the abrading platform.

 Clamp it with the Clamping Ring

 Remove the unceasing load and inspect for tucks and ridges. There

should be no crease in the abrading felt and abrading fabric.

 Place the top Moving Plate correctly

 Preparation of specimen holder unit

a) Open the Specimen Holder Assembly

46
 b) Put the bottom unit (Specimen Holder) in the specimen holder

opener

c) Put the testing specimen 38 mm diameter in to the bottom unit

see that testing face of the fabric should be downside.

d) Put the polyurethane foam 38 mm diameter on the fabric

e) Place the inside unit of the specimen holder in it.

f) Tight the top covers keeping slight pressure on it.

 Put the complete specimen holder on the center of the abrading

platform

 Press the loading pin (from rubber ‘O’ Ring Side) into the specimen

holder hole.

 Place the specimen holding bush (though loading pin) on the top moving

plate and tighten with the nut.

 Put the specified weight 9kPa or 12 kPa on the loading pins. (p kPa for

apparel fabrics and 12 kPa for upholstery)

 Now the machine is ready to abrasion test.

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE

 Please ensure that all the parts of the equipment are in correct position

perfectly.

 Connect the mains lead into 5A Power supply 220V, 50Hz AC

47
  If the MCB is OFF position, turn into ON position, then press the mains

ON/OFF switch

 Reset the counter setting display with reset switch and set desired

revaluation with the counter settings.

 Then start button to start the test.

 Please ensure that the emergency switch should be ON position while

performing the test.

 This can be repeated as many times as required.

METHOD OF ASSESSMENT FOR ABRASION TEST ASTM D 4966

 Normally four specimens of each sample are tested, one in each of the

specimen holders of the machine.

 Inspect the specimen without removing them from the holders at

regular intervals and note the number of rubs when at least two threads

are broken.

 This should be assessed independently for each specimen and the

specimen will then be removed when it reaches the end point.

Option – 1 By End point broken for woven fabric

Rub No End Point of Broken Thread

After 1000 Cycles

After 2000 Cycles

48
 After 4000 Cycles

After 6000 Cycles

After 10000 Cycles

After 15000 Cycles

After 18000 Cycles

Option – 2 By end point reached when there is a change in shade

Rub No Shade Change (Measured by Grey scale)

After 1000 Cycles

After 2000 Cycles

After 4000 Cycles

After 6000 Cycles

After 10000 Cycles

After 15000 Cycles

After 18000 Cycles

Option – 3 Average Weight Loss Method

 Abrade two specimens to end point as in option – 1 and then abrade

further pairs of specimens to three intermediate stage of

approximately 20, 50 and 75%, chosen to convenient number of rubs.

49
  Weight all specimens before and after abrasion and plot a graph of

weight loss against the number of rubs.

 Mass of the specimen before test (A) :……………… mg

 Mass of the specimen after test (B) : ………………mg

 The weight loss in milligram as a percentage : [(A-B)/A] x 100

RESULTS

50
EXPERIMENT – 8

PILLING RESISTANCE

AIM

51
To determine the resistance of woven and knitted fabrics to the formation of

pills and other related surface changes. Man-made fibers tend to pill more

than the natural fibers.

PRINCIPLE

Pilling and other changes in surface appearance that occur in normal wear are

simulated on a laboratory-testing machine. Fabric samples are washed or dry

cleaned. Depending on expected refurbishment, followed by controlled

rubbing against an elastomeric pad having specifically selected mechanical

properties. The degree of fabric pilling is then evaluated against standards on

an arbitrary scale ranging from 5 (indicating no pilling) to 1 (indicating very

severe pilling).

EQUIPMENT

Digital pilling consists of two wooden cubical Boxes, of exact Dimension, with

inside surface lined with standard cork sheet and out side surfaces laminated

with lamination sheet. These boxes are rotated about there central axis at a

specified speed with the help of geared motor. A pre set digital counter stops

the motor automatically after the desired number of revolutions.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

52
1. Size of the wooden box inside (before corking) : 235 x 235 x 235 mm (As

per standard)

2. Thickness of Corking: 3.2 mm (As per standard)

3. Speed of rotation of Boxes : 60 rpm (As per standard)

4. Size of test Specimen : (125 x125 ) mm

5. Size of Rubber Tubes : length 140 mm ± 1 mm (As per standard)

: Diameter 31.5 mm ±1 mm

6. Motor : 1/8 Hp single phase

7. Digital Counter : 0 – 99999 / L.C. 1

1.Wooden Base of the Unit.

2.Control Panel With Digital Controls.

3.Right Side Pilling Box (Inside cork lined).

53
 4.Lock of the Right Pilling Box.

5.Top Cover / lid (Motor Housing).

6.Left Side Pilling Box (Cork lined from inside).

7.Lock of the Left Pilling Box

PREPARATION FOR TEST SPECIMEN

54
55
MOUNTING OF SPECIMEN

56
PROCEDURE FOR TESTING

1. Clean the boxes thoroughly

2. Place the test specimens in each boxes and close the boxes

3. Set the pre set counter at 18000 rpm or as per the requirement with the

help of Control panel

4. Press Start

57
 5. Boxes will start rotating

6. The would stop automatically after specified revolutions or at 18000 rpm

7. Take out the specimens and compare them with the photographic rating

standards

EVALUATIONS AND RESULT

Type of the sample

EPC

PPC

GSM of sample

Warp Count

Weft Count

Fiber content

EVALUATION

1. Evaluate the test specimens against the standard photographic rating

standard or in well-lighted place avoiding glare.

2. Report the ratings separately for each specimen.

3. It is recommended that more than one observer assess the specimens

RESULT

Specimen before Specimen after the test

testing

58
 Specimen before Testing Specimen after the Test

Recommendation:

EXPERIMENT – 9

AIR PERMEABILITY
AIM
To measure the permeability of Air in given specimen

59
 APPARATUS
Shirley Air permeability tester

PROCEDURE
1. The specimen is clamped & the suction pump is started keep all the taps
closed.

2. When required pressure drops, which is normally 1cm of water is

attained & the indicator of the draught gauge is steady, the rate of flow
of air is read on one of the four rotameters.

3. The test is commenced with the R4 open & others closed , if the flow is
less than 30cu.cm/sec, R3 is open & R4 is closed. In this way suitable
range is selected,

4. To prevent any damage to the draught gauge , due to any undue

pressure drop across the fabric, a safety valve F is provided.

5. The area of the sample exposed to testing is 1 inch diameter circular

fabric(5.07 sq.cm).

6. Reading from Rotameter , air permeability can be calculated using the

following formula

7. Air permeability = Average rate of air flow / 5.07 cc/sec/sq.cm

RESULTS

60
EXPERIMENT – 10

WRINKLE RESISTANCE AND CREASE RECOVERY

AIM

To measure the Crease Recovery property of the fabric

61
APPARATUS

Shirley Crease recovery tester

PROCEDURE

 By measuring the recovery angle on a specific scale under specific

weight.

 A specimen is cut from fabric with dimension 2x1 inch, it is carefully

creased by folding into half .

 The specimen is creased under specified load (2kg) for fix time and is
then transfer to the instrument,

 where one end of the specimen(2x1 inches) is held in a spring loaded

clamp and other is allowed to fall free under its own weight.

 The dial of the instrument is rotated to keep the free edge of the
specimen in line with the knife edge.

 The recovery time is allowed is same as the time the load was kept on
the folded

 The recovery angle is noted in degrees from the scale.

  The above procedure is repeated for the warp way & weft way
specimens, the average recovery angle is calculated.

The load , time of creasing & recovery time may be altered to suit different
fabrics.

RESULTS

62
EXPERIMENT – 11

FABRIC DRAPE
AIM
To measure the Drape of textile fabrics.

63
 THEORY
 Condition the sample
 It consists of a mercury lamp & ammonium paper .
 A circular specimen of diameter 10 inch is supported on a circular
disc of diameter 5 inch,
 The unsupported area of the fabric drapes over the edges of the
supporting disc.
 Draped & undraped specimen weight of paper projection can be
taken & calculate the drape coefficient.

PROCEDURE
 It consists of a mercury lamp & ammonium paper.
 Ammonium paper is cut as per the size of the template & small disc.The
sample to be tested is cut according to the template & placed in the
machine.
 The mercury lamp is switched on & kept for a few minutes, then the
ammonium paper is taken out & kept in the ammonium vapor box,in
this box ammonium solution is kept in a small container & fumes from
this solution will make the draped portion dark blue color , after this
position is cut from the paper & weighed, will get wt of draped specimen
, small disc specimen & undraped specimen.

From this reading calculate the drape % by formula.

Drape co-efficient –

F = Ws –Wd X 100

WD-Wd

Ws-Wt of paper whose area is equal to the projected area of the specimen
(Draped ).

Wd-Wt of the paper whose area is equal to the area of the supporting disc.

WD—Wt of the paper whose area is equal to the area of specimen(Undraped).

64
RESULTS

65
EXPERIMENT – 12

DIMENSION STABILITY
Dimensional stability is the vital characteristics of a fabric. It is required to
confirm about the dimensional stability of a dyed fabric. The measured
dimensional stability of a fabric determines whether a fabric has the

66
 potential to retain its original shape and remain stable, indicating it will not
bubble or sag over time, when applied over a substrate, and its suitability
for a specified use.

Method : BS EN ISO 3759:1995, BS EN ISO 6330:2001

AIM
 To determine the changes in dimension and appearance of fabrics and
garments to specific cleansing procedures.

APPARATUS
1. Marker pens (texpen, dalo or laundry pen)
2. Calibrated steel rules of appropriate lengths graduated in cm and mm.
3. Calibrated tape measure.
4. Ballast (Polyester make weights 200*200 mm).
5. Wascator washing machine.
6. Domestic tumble dryer.
7. Elna press (or similler).
8. Domestic steam iron.
9. Non Phosphate Detergent A, Sodium Perborate and TAED in a 77:20:3
ratio.

SPECIMEN PREPARATION AND MEASUREMENT

 Cut a fabric specimen 500*500 mm with the edges parallel to the length
and width of the fabric. A template can be employed to assist this
preparation, on these occasions align one vertical edge parallel to the
length threads (ends). 
 Mark three pairs of reference marks in the length direction and three
pairs in the width direction of the specimen such that each pair is
approximately 350 mm apart (See the Diagram Below). Do not cut
specimens closer than 50 mm to a selvedge or cut edge. Mark the warp
(length) direction in the top left hand corner. 
 Lay the specimen flat and without stretching measure the distance
between each pair of reference marks to the nearest mm. 
 Record each measurement in order L1, L2, L3, W1, W2, and W3. 
 Over lock all four sides of the specimen to prevent fraying, 
 For woven crinkle fabrics two 500 mm square specimens with reference
marks 350 mm apart, measure the distance between the marks as in 2.1.3.

67
 Over lock the two pieces of fabric together down both length sides and
over lock open both ends of tube of fabric, to prevent fraying. This
preparation is to assist ironing which is a general requirement of woven
crinkle fabrics.

RE-MEASUREMENT AND APPEARANCE ASSESSMENT

 After the appropriate cleansing and drying procedure lay the specimen
flat and without stretching, preferably in a conditioned atmosphere for a
minimum of 4 hours (wool products 16 hours).
 After conditioning the sample measure the distance between each pair
of reference marks.
 Record the appropriate measurement alongside the original
measurement. 

RESULT

68
EXPERIMENT – 13

FABRIC STIFFNESS
AIM
To find the stiffness of the given sample

69
 APPARATUS
Shirley stiffness tester.

The sample is conditioned in the standard testing atmosphere for 4hours.

 The shirley stiffness tester consist of platform ,having a smooth low

friction , flat surface such as polished metal or plastic.

 The platform is supported by two side pieces made of plastic.

 Index lines are engraved on these side pieces, inclined at an angle of

41.5 degree below the plane of the platform surface.

 A mirror is attached to the instrument to enable the operator to view

both index lines from convenient position,

 The scale supplied with the instrument to measure the bending length
& is graduated in cm of bending length,

 It also serves as a template for cutting the samples.

PROCEDURE
 Specimen are cut to the size of 6x1 inch using template.

 Specimen in warp way & weft way are preferred for the test.

 The test specimen is place on platform with the template at the top of it.
So that the leveling edges coincide each other.

 Both are slowly pushed forward until the leading edges of specimen &
the template projected beyond the edge of platform , the sliding of
specimen is stopped when it cuts both the index line.

 Reading are taken from each specimen with each side up ,

 Each specimen is tested four times, at each end & again with strip turn
over.

 Mean value for the bending length in warp & weft direction can be
calculated.

70
THE HEART – LOOP TEST
 Some fabrics are too flexible or limp to be tested by using the cantilever
principle,

 & for such material Peirce put forward the heart-loop test.

 A loop is formed by clamping the free ends as indicated.

 A stiff fabric will hang as in figure

 Whereas a very limp fabric will hang vertically as in figure.

 Stiffness in this test is therefore inversely related to the length L,

measured from the top edges of the clamps to the base of the loop.

RESULTS

71
 EXPERIMENT – 14

FLAMMABILITY

Flammable :- A flammable fabric is one which propagates flame,

72
( i.e it continues to burn after the igniting flame has been removed.)

Flame –proof :- A flame –proof fabric is one which does NOT propagates flame

( i.e any flame goes out quickly when the igniting flame is withdrawn).

 Durable flame proof material:--Flame –proofed material which, after

being submitted to a washing treatment, remains flame proof

 Temporarily flame-proof material:-Material which complies with the

requirement of clause 3 of B.S.3120, But not after, the prescribed
washing treatment.

 Flame resistant : A flame –resistant fabric is one whose flame-resistance

rating is high, i.e 150.

 Flame-resistance rating (M)----A figure derived from the flammability

testing of fabrics & is of the same order as the time in seconds necessary
for the propagation of flame 100 in. in a vertical strip.

FACTORS THAT WILL AFFECTING FLAME –RESISTANCE OF THE

FABRIC
1. Fibre content

2. Type of yarn

3. Construction (EPI X PPI)

4. Fabric structure –Weaving, knitting, twisting, lace making, fiber bonding,

felting,

5. Fabric weight (heavier the fabric the higher will be its flame resistance.)

6. Finishes ( Raised ,piled, brushed , peached , suded fabric will have lower
flame resistance , because protruding fiber will ignite fast)

METHODS
 The visual timing test—In which the rate of flame spread is determined
over fabric suspended vertically

73
  The 45degree test –In which the time (t) for the flame travel 5inch over
fabric sloping at an angle of 45degree is measured in seconds.The flame
resistance rating(M) is then given by 2.5X t
 The hoop test –In which the rate of flame spread is determined over the
fabric mounted on the semicircular frame.

VERTICAL STRIP TEST

 In which rate of propagation of the flame is measured in terms of the
distance in millimeters per minute

 That the base of flame travels up a strip 900mm long & 75mm wide.

 The time to travel between two markers 500mm apart is observed.

 The rate of propagation is then given as (500/t) X60mm per minute

,Where ‘t’ is in seconds.

 According to the flammable fabric Act, the standard flammable test

unless other wise stated is the 45 degree angle test

RESULTS

74
EXPERIMENT – 15

SNAGGING RESISTANCE OF FABRIC

AIM
To determine the snagging resistance of a fabric.

THEORY

75
 The snagging resistance is a special type of abrasion. A portion of the fabric
structure catches on an abradent material with some resulting change in
the fabric appearance, structure of the fabric or yarn in case of snagging.
The snagging gets occurred when an object pills, plucks, scratches, or drags
a group of fibres, a yarn, or a yarn segment from the normal pattern of the
fabric.

APPARATUS

The main apparatuses using in the test of snagging resistance of the fabric are
given below:

1 - ICI mace tester

2 - Fabric.

3 - Scissor.

4 - measuring scale.

5 -  Marking pen.

6 - stitching machine.

7 - standard calibration fabric and visual rating standard

(i) fabric standard

(ii) photographic standards

SPECIMEN PREPARATION

The marking of specimen size is performed with the help of template and
marking pen. The size of the specimen is kept according to the circumference
and length of the rotating cylinder. The stitching margin is also left in length
and width.

PROCEDURE (MACE TEST METHOD)

76
A tube of cut specimen is constructed by stitching the specimen. The tube size
is kept according to the rotating cylinder.  The diameter and length of
specimen's tube ( green) is kept according to the rotating cylinder as shown in
below schematic diagram.

This specimen's tube is mounted carefully over the rotating cylinder. This
tube is kept tight with the help of 'O' rings ( elastic ring) over the rotating
cylinder. Two  ' O' rings are used for each cylinder.

Now a spike ball suspended with the help of steel chain is placed over the
rotating cylinder.
All required settings are done with the help of the gage.

77
Finally the power supply is switched on and timer resets. The required
testing time 30 seconds are entered into the timer.

The technician pushes start button. The rotating cylinders get started to
rotate in the clockwise direction as shown in the diagram. A spiked ball
bounces randomly against the fabric as the tube rotates.

When the entered time reaches to completion, the machine gets stopped
immediately. The elastic rings are taken off and this specimen's tube is
dismounted from the cylinder.

This specimen is compared with snagged fabric standard or photograph.

The specimen is rated on 1 - 5 scale.

1 ( very severe snagging)

5 ( no snagging)

RESULT

78
 EVALUATION TO COLOUR FASTNESS
Color fastness is the ability of fabrics to retain the dyes used to color them.
Some fabrics hold dye within their fibers extremely well - like denim - while
others do not (mostly synthetic or artificial non-natural fabrics) and tend to
"bleed" when they are washed. The denim would therefore be more "color
fast" than the other fabric.

1.COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING OR CROCKING

79
PURPOSE
This test method is designed to determine the amount of colour transferred
from the surface of coloured textile materials to other surfaces through
rubbing. It is applicable to textiles fibers in the form of yarn or fabric whether
dyed, printed or otherwise coloured.

APPARATUS
1.Rubbing device---Crockmeter

2.Undyed cloth ---Bleached 4x4cm made up of single yarn both warp &
weft.

3.Grey scale

PROCEDURE FOR DRY CROCKING

 Conditioning the sample to standard atmosphere

 Clamp sample (6 X 1.5 inch) on plate

 Put crocksquare (4cm X4cm) on the finger of the crockmeter

 Set 10 no. of revolutions@ 1 revolution per minute.

 Downward force of 900gms in the finger.

 Start the machine

 Remove crocksquare after completion of 10 revolutions

 Grading for staining with the AATCC chromatic transference scale or

gray scale .

PROCEDURE FOR WET CROCKING

 Conditioning
 Clamp sample on plate
 Wet the crocksquare with Distilled water upto required %age pickup
 Put crocksquare (4cm X4cm)on the finger of the crockmeter
80
  Set 10 no. of revolutions @ 1 revolution per minute
 Start the machine
 Remove crocksquare after completion of 10 revolutions
 Dry the crocksquare in conditioning room.
 Grading for staining with the AATCC chromatic transference scale or
gray scale.

PRECAUTIONS
 Ensure correct water pick up and sample holding direction.

 Check for elongated image which indicates loose clip.

 Check for circular image ® fingure needs resurfacing.

NOTE

 When multi colored textiles care should be taken that all colors of the
design are rubbed in the test.
 If the colors of the area are sufficiently large more test specimen may be
taken & individual color assessed separately.

2.COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

PURPOSE AND SCOPE

This method is used to determine the resistance of the colour of textile of all
kinds and in all forms to perspiration.

APPARATUS
1. Perspiration tester
2. Oven, Maintained at 37+-2 Degree centigrade

81
 3. Multifiber test fabric
4. Grey scale
5. Color matching chamber
6. Acidic and Alkaline solution
7. Glass or Acrylic plat
8. Weight

REAGENT FOR PERSPIRATION TEST

 Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-
hydrochloride mono-hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.5g disodium
hydrogen ortho phosphate per litre brought to PH 8.0 with 0.1N sodium
hydroxide.
 Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-
hydrochloride mono-hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.2g sodium
dihydrogen ortho phosphate per litre brought to PH 5.5 with 0.1N
sodium hydroxide.
 Two undyed cloths for each specimen each 6×6cm of the same kind of
fibre as the sample. Place the specimen between the two pieces of white
cloth and sew along one side to form a composite sample.

PROCEDURE

 Thoroughly wet one composite sample in a solution of PH8.0 at the

liquor ratio of 20:1 and allow it to remain in this solution at room
temperature for 30min.
 Pour off the solution and place the composite sample between two
glasses plates measuring about 7.5×6.5cm under a force of 4.5 kg.
 Treat the other sample in the same way but with the solution at PH 5.5.
 Place the apparatus containing the samples in the oven for 4 hour at
37±2C˚
 Separate the sample from the white cloth and dry them apart in air at
the temperature not exceeding 60C˚
 Assess the change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the
white cloth with the greigh scale. 

82
3.COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING
In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of color on the
adjacent fabric are assessed. A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured fabric is taken
and is sandwiched between two adjacent fabric and stitched, The sample and
the adjacent fabric are washed together. Five different types of washing are
specified as different washing methods.

FASTNESS TO WASH
Sr.No Method Washing Soap+Soda Time in Temperature Steel
severity in minutes balls

83
 grams/liter
Very mild like
1 IS:687:79 hand wash 5 30 40+/- 2 Nil
5 times severe
2 IS:3361:79 than method 1 5 45 50+/- 2 Nil
3 IS:764:79 Mild washing 5 + 2 30 60+/-2 Nil
Severe
4 IS:765:79 washing 5+2 30 95+/-2 10
Severe
5 IS:3417:79 washing 5+2 4 hrs 95+/-2 10

The solution for washing should be prepared to the required temperature of

washing. The liquor material ratio is 50:1 . After soaping treatment, remove
the specimen, rinse twice in cold water and then in running cold water under a
tap. Squeeze it and air dry at a temperature not exceeding 60°C. The change in
color and staining is evaluated with the help of grey scales.

4.COLOUR FASTNESS TO LIGHT

PURPOSE
The purpose of Color fastness to light test is to determine how much the color
will fade when exposed to a known light source. It is an off line quality
assurance system. Generally man wears the fabric and goes outside of the
home for doing their job. In day; sun light fall on the fabric surface. So it needs
to know how much protection ability have a fabric to sun light. It is determined
by an experiment called color fastness to light. To measure the color fastness a

84
blue scale is used. After completing the test, sample is compared with the blue
scale.

PRINCIPLE
This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile when exposed to
day light. The test sample is exposed to light for a certain time which is about
24 hours to 72 hours or by customer/buyer demand and compare the change
with original unexposed sample the changes are assessed by Blue Scales.

LIGHT-FASTNESS GRADES
Grade Degree of Fading Light Fastness Type
8 No fading Outstanding
7 Very slight fading Excellent
6 Slight fading Very good
5 Moderate fading Good
4 Appreciable fading Moderate
3 Significant fading Fair
2 Extensive fading Poor
1 Very extensive fading Very poor

COLOR FASTNESS TO LIGHT WITH THE MICROSOL LIGHT FASTNESS

TESTER:

 Cut the four pieces of test specimens according to the length & width
wise and attached with the specimen holder.
 Then the holder set in to the Microsol light fastness tester.
 Then the experiment continued at 72 hours according to the buyer’s
requirement.
 After 72 hours later the specimen taken from the light fastness tester
 Then the test specimen compare with the Blue scale or computer color
matching system (CCMS).

85
5.COLOR FASTNESS TO CHLORINE
THEORY
The test method by which this test is carried out is ISO 105 E03. Chlorinated
Pool water fastness is getting more importance in Terry Towel industry for
swimwear and also for yarn dyeing. This method is designed to evaluate the
resistance to Chlorinated Pool Water of any colored textile substrate. Here, the
test specimen is treated in diluted Chlorine solution under specified conditions
of available chlorine content, time and pH condition.

86
APPARATUS
1. Gyrowash
2. Grey scale
3. Color matching chamber
4. Glass beaker
5. Stainless steel container
6. pH meter

REAGENT

1.Distilled water or de-ionized water

2. NaOCl solution (100 gm/l, 50 gm/l, 20 gm/l of active chlorine at pH 7.5±0.05)

SAMPLE PREPARATION

A textile material (Dyed Goods) sample should be cut at 10 cm into 4 cm.

PROCEDURE

1.Put the specimen into the steel containers and added in the sodium
hydrochloride solution with liquor ratio 1:100 based on the appropriate
concentration of active chlorine used.

2. Close the container and put it inti the mechanical device (Gyrowash) and
agitate at 27±20C for 1 hour in darkness.

3. Remove the specimen from the container and squeeze it.

4. Dry the specimen by hanging it in air at room temperature in quiet light.

EVALUATION

Compare the contrast between the treated and untreated sample with Grey
scales for changing color of dyed sample in a color matching cabinet.
Numerical rating for color changing is the shade. 

87
6.COLOR FASTNESS TO HOT PRESSING

Pressing fastness test of dyed and printed textile products is performed to

determine of resistance of textiles to ironing and to processing on cylinders.
Different tests are performed according to when the textile is dry, when it is
wet and when it is damp.

PURPOSE

This method is used for determining the resistance of the colour of textile of all
kinds and in all forms to ironing and processing on hot cylinders. Tests are
88
given for hot pressing when the textiles are wet,when it is damp, and when it is
dry.

APPARATUS AND REAGENT  

 Hand iron of proper weight to give a pressure of approximately

30g/sq.cm at the temperature indicated in the following ;
1. Cotton & Linen 190-200C˚
2. Wool, Silk & Viscose 140-160C˚
3. Cellulose acetate & Polyamide 115-120C˚
 White bleached cotton cloth weighting approximately 125g/sq.meter.
Five pieces not less than 14×4 cm are required. 
 Gray scale by assessing change in colour and staining.(ISO scale)  
 The size of the specimen is 10×4cm

PROCEDURE

Specimen of materials, which has been subjected to any heat or drying

treatment, must be allowed to condition at 65% RH, temp. 20±2C˚, before they
tested.

DRYPRESSING
Place the specimen on the piece of dry cotton cloth on a smooth horizontal
surface. Place the iron on the specimen and leave it for 15 Sec.

DAMP PRESSING

The adjacent fabric in dimensions of 100 mm x 40 mm is immersed into the

water and, squeezed as 100% pick up. Dry specimen is placed onto the undyed
cotton fabric on the filler and, the wet adjacent fabric is placed onto them. The
top layer of the device is pulled down and, dry specimen is pressed for 15
seconds at the determined temperature. The change in color of the specimen
is evaluated in two different ways according to grey scale. After conditioning
for 4 hours under standard atmospheric circumstances.
The staining to undyed fabrics is evaluated by grey scale.

WETPRESSING

89
Soak the specimen and cotton cloth in distilled water and squeeze or extract
them to contain their own weight of water. Place the wet specimen on a piece
of the dry cotton cloth and place the wet cotton cloth on the specimen, press
by moving the iron to and fro over the wet cloth (without additional pressure)
for15seconds.

ASSESSMENT
Assess the change in colour of the specimen with appropriate grey scale.

STANDARD
DryPressing4
Wet Pressing 3-4 

7.COLOR FASTNESS TO FROSTING

 Frosting is the change of color caused by a localized , flat abrasive action.

 Fabrics that have poor dye penetration possess poor colorfastness to
frosting.
 Fabric that are cross dyed also possess poor color fastness (due to
differences in the abrasion resistance).

EQUIPMENT

 Inflated Diaphragm Abrasion Tester With Frosting Attachment

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  The specimen is held in such a way that only small portion is exposed (2
inch) to rubbing force.
 Two abradants are used here

EMERY METHOD

 more severe test

 used for garments that are exposed to severe abrasion resistance for a
long period of time.
 also used for fabrics that have low dye penetration.

TESTING EQUIPMENT

Screen Wire Method

 results in mild abrasive action.

 a fine wire screen is used and the specimen is placed over a hard sponge
material.
 This is used for cross dyed and blended fabrics.
 In crocking test the rubbing cloth is evaluated and in this the specimen is
evaluated.

8.COLOR FASTNESS TO SALIVA

To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles regarding influence of
saliva. Color fastness to saliva is usually checked for kids or infant wear only. All
baby’s products (both solid and multicoloured) including details such as labels,
badges and drawstrings need to be tested. If the product is multi colored,
make sure all colours are included in the specimen to be tested.

 EQUIPMENT
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  Perspirometer

 BOD Incubator

 Acrylic plate (11)

 Petri dish

 Glass plates

 Hot Oven 

PROCEDURE

 A 10x4 sample size is taken and stitched with a 10x4 multifibre from all sides.

 Multifibre consists of six fibres i.e., acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic
and wool.

 PREPARATION OF SOLUTION:

1. 3.0g Lactic acid

2. 0.2g Urea

3. 4.5g sodium chloride

4. 0.3g Potassium chloride

5. 0.3g Sodium sulphate

6. 0.4g Ammonium chloride

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PROCEDURE

 Sample were taken and put into a petri dish.

 Solution is poured into the petri dish.
 The the fabric tapped with glass plate for 3 times in between 30
minutes.
 Then the fabric is kept in between the 11 slides of acrylic plate, and
given a weight of 5 kg.
 Then it is put inside a BOD incubator at 37 degree Celsius for 4
hours.
 Then the fabric is taken to hot oven at dried at 45 degree – 50
degree Celsius.
 Finally mounting is done.

ASSESSMENT OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO SALIVA

a)Change in colour (of the test specimen)

 Grey scale is used for checking the change in colour of the
specimen.
 This scale consists of 9 parts (5-1).
 The differences in colour between the chips are given a rating.

b)Staining(for Adjacent fabric)

 This scale consists of normally white and grey colour chips, each
representing a difference in colour or contrast corresponding to a
numerical rating for staining.
 The ratings are from 5-1.

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