AMT Airframe Handbook - Volume 1 Chapter 6
AMT Airframe Handbook - Volume 1 Chapter 6
Airframe Handbook Volume 1 Chapter 6
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Chapter 6. Aircraft Wood and Structural Repair
01. Aircraft Wood and Structural Repair
02. Wood Aircraft Construction and Repairs
03. Repair of Wood Aircraft Structures
Aircraft Wood and Structural Repair
Wood was among the first materials used to construct aircraft. ??ost of the airplanes built during World
War I (WWI) were constructed of wood frames with fabric coverings. Wood was the material of choice
for aircraft construction into the 1930s. Part of the reason was the slow development of strong,
lightweight, metal aircraft structures and the lack of suitable corrosionresistant materials for allmetal
aircraft.
In the late 1930s, the British airplane company DeHavilland designed and developed a bomber named
the Mosquito. Well into the late 1940s, DeHavilland produced more than 7,700 airplanes made of
spruce, birch plywood, and balsa wood. [Figure 61]
During the early part of WWII, the U.S. government put out a contract to build three flying boats.
Hughes Aircraft ultimately won the contract with the mandate to use only materials not critical to the
war, such as aluminum and steel. Hughes designed the aircraft to be constructed out of wood.
After many delays and loss of government funding, Howard Hughes continued construction, using his
own money and completing one aircraft. On November 2, 1947, during taxi tests in the harbor at Long
Beach, California, Hughes piloted the Spruce Goose for over a mile at an altitude of 70 feet, proving it
could fly.
This was the largest seaplane and the largest wooden aircraft ever constructed. Its empty weight was
300,000 pounds with a maximum takeoff weight of 400,000 pounds. The entire airframe, surface
structures, and flaps were composed of laminated wood with fabric covered primary control surfaces.
It was powered by eight Pratt & Whitney R4360 radial engines, each producing 3,000 horsepower.
[Figure 62]
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As the aircraft design and manufacturing evolved, the development of lightweight metals and the
demand for increased production moved the industry away from aircraft constructed entirely of wood.
Some general aviation aircraft were produced with wood spars and wings, but today only a limited
number of wood aircraft are produced. Most of those are built by their owners for education or
recreation and not for production.
Quite a number of airplanes in which wood was used as the primary structural material still exist and
are operating, including certificated aircraft that were constructed during the 1930s and later. With the
proper maintenance and repair procedures, these older aircraft can be maintained in an airworthy
condition and kept operational for many years.
Wood Aircraft Construction and Repairs
The information presented in this chapter is general in nature and should not be regarded as a
substitute for specific instructions contained in the aircraft manufacturer’s maintenance and repair
manuals. Methods of construction vary greatly with different types of aircraft, as do the various repair
and maintenance procedures required to keep them airworthy.
When specific manufacturer’s manuals and instructions are not available, the Federal Aviation
Administration (FAA) Advisory Circular (AC) 43.131, Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices—
Aircraft Inspection and Repair, can be used as reference for inspections and repairs. The AC details in
the first paragraph, Purpose, the criteria necessary for its use. In part, it stipulates that the use of the
AC is acceptable to the FAA for the inspection and minor repair of nonpressurized areas of civil aircraft.
It also specifies that the repairs identified in the AC may also be used as a basis for FAA approval of
major repairs when listed in block 8 of FAA Form 337, Major Repair and Alteration, when:
1. The user has determined that it is appropriate to the product being repaired;
2. It is directly applicable to the repair being made; and 3. It is not contrary to manufacturer’s data.
Certificated mechanics that have the experience of working on wooden aircraft are becoming rare. Title
14 of the Code of Federal Regulations (14 CFR) part 65 states in part that a certificated mechanic may
not perform any work for which he or she is rated unless he or she has performed the work concerned
at an earlier date. This means that if an individual does not have the previous aviation woodworking
experience performing the repair on an aircraft, regulation requires a certificated and appropriately
rated mechanic or repairman who has had previous experience in the operation concerned to supervise
that person.
The ability to inspect wood structures and recognize defects (dry rot, compression failures, etc.) can be
learned through experience and instruction from knowledgeable certificated mechanics and
appropriately qualified technical instructors.
Inspection of Wood Structures
To properly inspect an aircraft constructed or comprised of wood components, the aircraft must be dry.
It should be placed in a dry, wellventilated hanger with all inspection covers, access panels, and
removable fairings opened and removed. This allows interior sections and compartments to thoroughly
dry. Wet, or even damp, wood causes swelling and makes it difficult to make a proper determination of
the condition of the glue joints.
If there is any doubt that the wood is dry, a moisture meter should be utilized to verify the percentage
of moisture in the structure. Nondestructive meters are available that check moisture without making
holes in the surface. The ideal range is 812 percent, with any reading over 20 percent providing an
environment for the growth of fungus in the wood.
External and Internal Inspection
The inspection should begin with an examination of the external surface of the aircraft. This provides a
general assessment of the overall condition of the wood and structure. The wings, fuselage, and
empennage should be inspected for undulation, warping, or any other disparity from the original shape.
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Where the wings, fuselage, or empennage structure and skins form stressed structures, no departure
from the original contour or shape is permissible. [Figure 63]
Where light structures using single plywood covering are concerned, some slight sectional undulation or
bulging between panels may be permissible if the wood and glue are sound. However, where such
conditions exist, a careful check must be made of the attachment of the plywood to its supporting
structure. A typical example of a distorted single plywood structure is illustrated in Figure 64.
The contours and alignment of leading and trailing edges are of particular importance. A careful check
should be made for any deviation from the original shape. Any distortion of these light plywood and
spruce structures is indicative of deterioration, and a detailed internal inspection has to be made for
security of these parts to the main wing structure. If deterioration is found in these components, the
main wing structure may also be affected.
Splits in the fabric covering on plywood surfaces must be investigated to ascertain whether the
plywood skin beneath is serviceable. In all cases, remove the fabric and inspect the plywood, since it is
common for a split in the plywood skin to initiate a similar defect in the protective fabric covering.
Although a preliminary inspection of the external structure can be useful in assessing the general
condition of the aircraft, note that wood and glue deterioration can often take place inside a structure
without any external indications. Where moisture can enter a structure, it seeks the lowest point,
where it stagnates and promotes rapid deterioration. A musty or moldy odor apparent as you remove
the access panels during the initial inspection is a good indication of moisture, fungal growth, and
possible decay.
Glue failure and wood deterioration are often closely related, and the inspection of glued joints must
include an examination of the adjacent wood structure. NOTE: Water need not be present for glue
deterioration to take place.
The inspection of a complete aircraft for glue or wood deterioration requires scrutiny of parts of the
structure that may be known, or suspected, trouble spots. In many instances, these areas are boxed in
or otherwise inaccessible. Considerable dismantling may be required. It may be necessary to cut
access holes in some of the structures to facilitate the inspection. Do such work only in accordance
with approved drawings or instructions in the maintenance manual for the aircraft concerned. If
drawings and manuals are not available, engineering review may be required before cutting access
holes.
Glued Joint Inspection
The inspection of glued joints in wooden aircraft structures presents considerable difficulties. Even
where access to the joint exists, it is still difficult to positively assess the integrity of the joint. Keep
this in mind when inspecting any glue joint.
Some common factors in premature glue deterioration include:
• Chemical reactions of the glue caused by aging or moisture, extreme temperatures, or a combination
of these factors, and
• Mechanical forces caused mainly by wood shrinkage, and
• Development of fungal growths. An aircraft painted in darker colors experiences higher skin
temperatures and heat buildup within its structure. Perform a more detailed inspection on a wooden
aircraft structure immediately beneath the upper surfaces for signs of deteriorating adhesives.
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Aircraft that are exposed to large cyclic changes of temperature and humidity are especially prone to
wood shrinkage that may lead to glue joint deterioration. The amount of movement of a wooden
member due to these changes varies with the size of each member, the rate of growth of the tree from
which it was cut, and the way the wood was converted in relation to the grain.
This means that two major structural members joined to each other by glue are not likely to have
identical characteristics. Over a period of time, differential loads are transmitted across the glue joint
because the two members do not react identically. This imposes stresses in the glue joint that can
normally be accommodated when the aircraft is new and for some years afterwards. However, glue
tends to deteriorate with age, and stresses at the glued joints may cause failure of the joints. This is a
fact even when the aircraft is maintained under ideal conditions.
The various cuts of lumber from a tree have tendency to shrink and warp in the direction(s) indicated
in the yellow area around each cut in Figure 65.
When checking a glue line (the edge of the glued joint) for condition, all protective coatings of paint
should be removed by careful scraping. It is important to ensure that the wood is not damaged during
the scraping operation. Scraping should cease immediately when the wood is revealed in its natural
state and the glue line is clearly discernible. At this point in the inspection, it is important that the
surrounding wood is dry; otherwise, you will get a false indication of the integrity of the glue line due
to swelling of the wood and subsequent closing of the joint.
Inspect the glue line using a magnifying glass. Where the glue line tends to part, or where the presence
of glue cannot be detected or is suspect, probe the glue line with a thin feeler gauge. If any penetration
is observed, the joint is defective. The structure usually dictates the feeler gauge thickness, but use the
thinnest feeler gauge whenever possible. The illustration indicates the points a feeler gauge should
probe. [Figure 66]
Pressure exerted on a joint either by the surrounding structure or by metal attachment devices, such as
bolts or screws, can cause a false appearance of the glue condition. The joint must be relieved of this
pressure before the glue line inspection is performed.
A glued joint may fail in service as a result of an accident or because of excessive mechanical loads
having been imposed upon it. Glued joints are generally designed to take shear loads. If a joint is
expected to take tension loads, it is secured by a number of bolts or screws in the area of tension
loading. In all cases of glued joint failure, whatever the direction of loading, there should be a fine
layer of wood fibers adhering to the glue. The presence of fibers usually indicates that the joint itself is
not at fault.
Examination of the glue under magnification that does not reveal any wood fibers, but shows an imprint
of the wood grain, indicates that the cause of the failure was the predrying of the glue before applying
pressure during the manufacture of the joint. If the glue exhibits an irregular appearance with star
shaped patterns, this is an indication that precuring of the glue occurred before pressure was applied,
or that pressure had been incorrectly applied or maintained on the ??oint. If there is no evidence of
wood fiber adhesion, there may also be glue deterioration.
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Wood Condition
Wood decay and dry rot are usually easy to detect. Decay may be evident as either a discoloration or a
softening of the wood. Dry rot is a term loosely applied to many types of decay, but especially to a
condition that, in an advanced stage, permits the wood to be crushed to a dry powder. The term is
actually a misnomer for any decay, since all fungi require considerable moisture for growth.
Dark discolorations of the wood or gray stains running along the grain are indicative of water
penetration. If such discoloration cannot be removed by light scraping, replace the part. Disregard local
staining of the wood by dye from a synthetic adhesive hardener.
In some instances where water penetration is suspected, a few screws removed from the area in
question reveal, by their degree of corrosion, the condition of the surrounding joint. [Figure 67]
Another method of detecting water penetration is to remove the bolts holding the fittings at spar root
end joints, aileron hinge brackets, etc. Corrosion on the surface of such bolts and wood discoloration
provide a useful indication of water penetration.
Plain brass screws are normally used for reinforcing glued wooden members. For hardwoods, such as
mahogany or ash, steel screws may be used. Unless specified by the aircraft manufacturer, replace
removed screws with new screws of identical length, but one gauge larger in diameter.
Inspection experience with a particular type of aircraft provides insight to the specific areas most prone
to water penetration and moisture entrapment. Wooden aircraft are more prone to the damaging
effects of water, especially without the protection of covered storage. Control system openings,
fastener holes, cracks or breaks in the finish, and the interfaces of metal fittings and the wood
structure are points that require additional attention during an inspection. Additionally, windshield and
window frames, the area under the bottom of entrance and cargo doors, and the lower sections of the
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wing and fuselage are locations that require detailed inspections for water damage and corrosion on all
aircraft.
The condition of the fabric covering on plywood surfaces provides an indication of the condition of the
wood underneath. If there is any evidence of poor adhesion, cracks in the fabric, or swelling of the
wood, remove the fabric to allow further inspection. The exposed surface shows water penetration by
the existence of dark gray streaks along the grain and dark discoloration at ply joints or screw holes.
Cracks in wood spars are often hidden under metal fittings or metal rib flanges and leading edge skins.
Any time a reinforcement plate exists that is not feathered out on its ends, a stress riser exists at the
ends of the plate. A failure of the primary structure can be expected at this point. [Figure 68]
As part of the inspection, examine the structure for other defects of a mechanical nature, including any
location where bolts secure fittings that take loadcarrying members, or where the bolts are sub??ect
to landing or shear loads. Remove the bolts and examine the holes for elongation or surface crushing
of the wood fibers. It is important to ensure the bolts are a good fit in the holes. Check for evidence of
bruises or crushing of the structural member, which can be caused by overtorquing of the bolts.
Check all metal fittings that are attached to a wood structure for looseness, corrosion, cracks, or
bending. Areas of particular concern are strut attach fittings, spar butt fittings, aileron and flap hinges,
jury strut fittings, compression struts, control cable pulley brackets, and landing gear fittings. All
exposed end grain wood, particularly the spar butts, should be inspected for cracking or checking.
Inspect structural members for compression failures, which is indicated by rupture across the wood
fibers. This is a serious defect that can be difficult to detect. If a compression failure is suspected, a
flashlight beam shown along the member, and running parallel to the grain, will assist in revealing it.
The surface will appear to have minute ridges or lines running across the grain. Particular attention is
necessary when inspecting any wooden member that has been subjected to abnormal bending or
compression loads during a hard landing. If undetected, compression failures of the spar may result in
structural failure of the wing during flight. [Figure 69]
When a member has been subjected to an excessive bending load, the failure appears on the surface
that has been compressed. The surface subject to tension normally shows no defects. In the case of a
member taking an excessive direct compression load, the failure is apparent on all surfaces.
The front and rear spars should be checked for longitudinal cracks at the ends of the plywood
reinforcement plates where the lift struts attach. [Figure 68] Check the ribs on either side of the strut
attach points for cracks where the cap strips pass over and under the spars, and for missing or loose
ribtospar attach nails. All spars, those in the wing(s) and empennage, should be inspected on the face
and top surface for compression cracks. A borescope can be utilized by accessing existing inspection
holes.
Various mechanical methods can be employed to enhance the visual inspection of wood structures.
Tapping the subject area with a light plastic hammer or screwdriver handle should produce a sharp
solid sound. If the suspected area sounds hollow and dull, further inspection is warranted. Use a sharp
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metal awl or thinbladed screwdriver to probe the area. The wood structure should be solid and firm. If
the area is soft and mushy, the wood is rotted and disassembly and repair of the structure is
necessary.
Repair of Wood Aircraft Structures
The standard for any repair is that it should return the aircraft or component to its original condition in
strength, function, and aerodynamic shape. It should also be accomplished in accordance with the
manufacturer’s specifications and/or instructions, or other approved data.
The purpose of repairing all wood structural components is to obtain a structure as strong as the
original. Major damage probably requires replacement of the entire damaged assembly, but minor
damage can be repaired by removing or cutting away the damaged members and replacing them with
new sections. This replacement may be accomplished by gluing, glue and nails, or glue and screw
reinforced splicing.
Materials
Several forms of wood are commonly used in aircraft.
• Solid wood or the adjective "solid" used with such nouns as "beam" or "spar" refers to a member
consisting of one piece of wood.
• Laminated wood is an assembly of two or more layers of wood that have been glued together with
the grain of all layers or laminations approximately parallel.
• Plywood is an assembled product of wood and glue that is usually made of an odd number of thin
plies, or veneers, with the grain of each layer placed 90° with the adjacent ply or plies.
•Highdensity material includes compreg, impreg, or similar commercially made products, heat
stabilized wood, or any of the hardwood plywoods commonly used as bearing or reinforcement plates.
Suitable Wood
The various species of wood listed in Figure 610 are acceptable for structural purposes when used for
the repair of aircraft. Spruce is the preferred choice and the standard by which the other wood is
measured. Figure 610 provides a comparison of other wood that may be suitable for aircraft repair. It
lists the strength and characteristics of the wood in comparison to spruce. The one item common to all
the species is that the slope of the grain cannot be steeper than 1:15.
All solid wood and plywood used for the construction and repair of aircraft should be of the highest
quality and grade. For certificated aircraft, the wood should have traceability to a source that can
provide certification to a military specification (MILSPEC). The term "aircraft quality" or "aircraft
grade" is referred to and specified in some repair documents, but that grade wood cannot be purchased
from a local lumber company. To purchase the material, contact one of the specialty aircraft supply
companies and request a certification document with the order. The MILSPEC for solid spruce is MIlS
6073 and for plywood it is MILP6070B.
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When possible, fabricated wood components should be purchased from the aircraft manufacturer, or
someone who may have a Parts Manufacturer Approval (PMA) to produce replacement parts for the
aircraft. With either of these sources supplying the wood components, the mechanic can be assured of
installing approved material. At the completion of the repair, as always, it is the responsibility of the
person returning the aircraft to service to determine the quality of the replacement wood and the
airworthiness of the subsequent repair.
To help determine the suitability of the wood, inspect it for defects that would make it unsuitable
material to repair or construct an aircraft. The type, location, and amount or size of the defects grade
the wood for possible use. All woods used for structural repair of aircraft are classified as softwood.
Softwood is typically used for construction and is graded based on strength, load carrying ability, and
safety. Hardwoods, on the other hand, are typically appearance woods and are graded based on the
number and size of clear cuttings from the tree.
Defects Permitted
The following defects are permitted in the wood species used for aircraft repair that are identified in
Figure 610:
1. Cross grain—Spiral grain, diagonal grain, or a combination of the two is acceptable if the grain does
not diverge from the longitudinal axis of the material more than specified in Figure 610 column 3. A
check of all four faces of the board is necessary to determine the amount of divergence. The direction
of freeflowing ink frequently assists in determining grain direction.
2. Wavy, curly, and interlocked grain—Acceptable, if local irregularities do not exceed limitations
specified for spiral and diagonal grain.
3. Hard knots—Sound, hard knots up to 3/8inch in diameter are acceptable if: (1) they are not
projecting portions of Ibeams, along the edges of rectangular or beveled unrouted beams, or along the
edges of flanges of box beams (except in portions of low stress); (2) they do not cause grain
divergence at the edges of the board or in the flanges of a beam more than specified in Figure 610
column 3; and (3) they are in the center third of the beam and not closer than 20inches to another
knot or other defect (pertains to 3/8inch knots; smaller knots may be proportionately closer). Knots
greater than ¼inch must be used with caution.
4. Pin knot clusters—small clusters are acceptable if they produce only a small effect on grain
direction.
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5. Pitch pockets—Acceptable in center portion of a beam if they are at least 14inches apart when they
lie in the same growth ring and do not exceed 1½inches in length by 1/8inch width by 1/8inch depth,
and if they are not along the projecting portions of Ibeams, along the edges of rectangular or beveled
unrouted beams, or along the edges of the flanges of box beams.
6. Mineral streaks—acceptable if careful inspection fails to reveal any decay.
Defects Not Permitted
The following defects are not permitted in wood used for aircraft repair. If a defect is listed as
unacceptable, please refer to the previous section, Defects Permitted, for acceptable conditions.
1. Cross grain—unacceptable.
2. Wavy, curly, and interlocked grain – unacceptable.
3. Hard knots—unacceptable.
4. Pin knot clusters—unacceptable, if they produce large effect on grain direction.
5. Spike knots—knots running completely through the depth of a beam perpendicular to the annual
rings and appear most frequently in quartersawed lumber. Reject wood containing this defect.
6. Pitch pockets—unacceptable.
7. Mineral streaks—unacceptable, if accompanied by decay.
8. Checks, shakes, and splits—checks are longitudinal cracks extending, in general, across the annual
rings. Shakes are longitudinal cracks usually between two annual rings. Splits are longitudinal cracks
caused by artificially induced stress. Reject wood containing these defects.
9. Compression—very detrimental to strength and is difficult to recognize readily, compression wood is
characterized by high specific gravity, has the appearance of an excessive growth of summer wood,
and in most species shows little contrast in color between spring wood and summer wood. If in doubt,
reject the material or subject samples to toughness machine test to establish the quality of the wood.
Reject all material containing compression wood.
10. Compression failures—caused from overstress in compression due to natural forces during the
growth of the tree, felling trees on rough or irregular ground, or rough handling of logs or lumber.
Compression failures are characterized by a buckling of the fibers that appears as streaks substantially
at right angles to the grain on the surface of the piece, and vary from pronounced failures to very fine
hairlines that require close inspection to detect. Reject wood containing obvious failures. If in doubt,
reject the wood or make a further inspection in the form of microscopic examination or toughness test,
the latter being more reliable.
11. Tension—forming on the upper side of branches and leaning trunks of softwood trees, tension wood
is caused by the natural overstressing of trying to pull the branches and leaning trunk upright. It is
typically harder, denser, and may be darker in color than normal wood, and is a serious defect, having
higher than usual longitudinal shrinkage that may break down due to uneven shrinkage. When in doubt,
reject the wood.
12. Decay—rot, dote, red heart, purple heart, etc., must not appear on any piece. Examine all stains
and discoloration carefully to determine whether or not they are harmless or in a stage of preliminary
or advanced decay.
Glues (Adhesives)
Because adhesives play a critical role in the bonding of aircraft structure, the mechanic must employ
only those types of adhesives that meet all of the performance requirements necessary for use in
certificated aircraft. The product must be used strictly in accordance with the aircraft and adhesive
manufacturer’s instructions. All instructions must be followed exactly, including the mixing ratios, the
ambient and surface temperatures, the open and closed assembly times, the gapfilling ability, or glue
line thickness, the spread of the adhesive, whether one or two surfaces, and the amount of clamping
pressure and time required for full cure of the adhesive.
AC 43.131 provides information on the criteria for identifying adhesives that are acceptable to the
FAA. It stipulates the following:
1. Refer to the aircraft maintenance or repair manual for specific instructions on acceptable adhesive
selection for use on that type aircraft.
2. Adhesives meeting the requirements of a MILSPEC, Aerospace Material Specification (AMS), or
Technical Standard Order (TSO) for wooden aircraft structures are satisfactory, providing they are
found to be compatible with existing structural materials in the aircraft and fabrication methods to be
used in the repair.
New adhesives have been developed in recent years, and some of the older ones are still in use. Some
of the more common adhesives that have been used in aircraft construction and repair include casein
glue, plastic resin glue, resorcinol glue, and epoxy adhesives.
Casein glue should be considered obsolete for all aircraft repairs. The adhesive deteriorates when
exposed to moisture and temperature variations that are part of the normal operating environment of
any aircraft.
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NOTE: Some modern adhesives are incompatible with casein adhesive. If a joint that has previously
been bonded with casein is to be reglued using another type adhesive, all traces of the casein must be
scraped off before a new adhesive is applied. If any casein adhesive is left, residual alkalinity may
cause the new adhesive to fail to cure properly.
Plastic resin glue, also known as a ureaformaldehyde adhesive, came on the market in the middle to
late 1930s. Tests and practical applications have shown that exposure to moist conditions, and
particularly to a warm humid environment, under swellshrink stress, leads to deterioration and
eventual failure of the bond. For these reasons, plastic resin glue should be considered obsolete for all
aircraft repairs. Discuss any proposed use of this type adhesive on aircraft with FAA engineering prior
to use.
Resorcinol glue, or resorcinolformaldehyde glue, is a twocomponent synthetic adhesive consisting of
resin and a catalyst. It was first introduced in 1943 and almost immediately found wide application in
the wood boatbuilding and wood aircraft industry in which the combination of high durability and
moderatetemperature curing was extremely important. It has better wetweather and ultraviolet (UV)
resistance than other adhesives. This glue meets all strength and durability requirements if the fit of
the joint and proper clamping pressure results in a very thin and uniform bond line.
The manufacturer’s product data sheets must be followed regarding mixing, usable temperature range,
and the open and close assembly times. It is very important that this type of glue is used at the
recommended temperatures because the full strength of the joint cannot be relied on if assembly and
curing temperatures are below 70 °F. With that in mind, higher temperatures shorten the working life
because of a faster cure rate, and open and closed assembly times must be shortened.
Epoxy adhesive is a twopart synthetic resin product that depends less on joint quality and clamping
pressure. However, many epoxies have not exhibited joint durability in the presence of moisture and
elevated temperatures and are not recommended for structural aircraft bonding unless they meet the
acceptable standards set forth by the FAA in AC 43.131, as referenced earlier in this chapter.
Definition of Terms Used in the Glue Process
• Close contact adhesive—a nongapfilling adhesive (e.g., resorcinolformaldehyde glue) suitable for
use only in those joints where the surfaces to be joined can be brought into close contact by means of
adequate pressure, to allow a glue line of no more than 0.005 inch gap.
• Gapfilling adhesive—an adhesive suitable for use in those joints in which the surfaces to be joined
may not be close or in continuous contact (e.g., epoxy adhesives) due either to the impracticability of
applying adequate pressure or to the slight inaccuracies of fabricating the joint.
• Glue line—resultant layer of adhesive joining any two adjacent wood layers in the assembly.
• Single spread—spread of adhesive to one surface only.
• Double spread—spread of adhesive to both surfaces and equally divided between the two surfaces to
be joined.
• Open assembly time—period of time between the application of the adhesive and the assembly of the
joint components.
• Closed assembly time—time elapsing between the assembly of the joints and the application of
pressure.
• Pressing or clamping time—time during which the components are pressed tightly together under
recommended pressure until the adhesive cures (may vary from 10 to 150 pounds per square inch (psi)
for softwoods, depending on the viscosity of the glue).
• Caul—a clamping device, usually two rigid wooden bars, to keep an assembly of flat panel boards
aligned during glueup. It is assembled with long bolts and placed on either side of the boards, one on
top and another below, and parallel with the pipe/bar clamps. A caul is usually finished and waxed
before each use to keep glue from adhering to it.
• Adhesive pot life—time elapsed from the mixing of the adhesive components until the mixture must
be discarded, because it no longer performs to its specifications. The manufacturer’s product data sheet
may define this as working time or useful life; once expired, the adhesive must not be used. It lists the
specific temperature and quantity at which the sample amount can be worked. Pot life is a product of
time and temperature. The cooler the mix is kept, within the recommended temperature range, the
longer it is usable.
Preparation of Wood for Gluing
Satisfactory glue joints in aircraft should develop the full strength of the wood under all conditions of
stress. To produce this result, the conditions involved in the gluing operation must be carefully
controlled to obtain a
continuous, thin, uniform film of solid glue in the joint with adequate adhesion to both surfaces of the
wood. These conditions required:
1. Proper and equal moisture content of wood to be joined (8 to 12 percent).
2. Properly prepared wood surfaces that are machined or planed, and not sanded or sawed.
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3. Selection of the proper adhesive for the intended task, which is properly prepared and of good
quality.
4. The application of good gluing techniques, including fitment, recommended assembly times, and
adequate equal pressure applied to the joint.
5. Performing the gluing operation under the recommended temperature conditions.
The surfaces to be joined must be clean, dry, and free from grease, oil, wax, paint, etc. Keep large
prepared surfaces covered with a plastic sheet or masking paper prior to the bonding operation. It is
advisable to clean all surfaces with a vacuum cleaner just prior to adhesive application.
Smooth even surfaces produced on planers and joiners with sharp knives and correct feed adjustments
are the best surfaces for gluing solid wood. The use of sawn surfaces for gluing has been discouraged
for aircraft component assembly because of the difficulty in producing a surface free of crushed fibers.
Glue joints made on surfaces that are covered with crushed fibers do not develop the normal full
strength of the wood.
Some of the surface changes in plywood, such as glazing and bleedthrough, that occur in manufacture
and may interfere with the adhesion of glue in secondary gluing are easily recognized. A light sanding
of the surface with 220grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain restores the surface fibers to their
original condition, removes the gloss, and improves the adhesion of the glue. In contrast to these
recognized surface conditions, wax deposits from cauls used during hot pressing produce unfavorable
gluing surfaces that are not easily detected.
Wetting tests are a useful means of detecting the presence of wax. A finely sprayed mist or drops of
water on the surface of waxcoated plywood bead and do not wet the wood. This test may also give an
indication of the presence of other materials or conditions that would degrade a glue joint. Only a
proper evaluation of the adhesion properties, using gluing tests, determines the gluing characteristics
of the plywood surfaces.
Preparing Glues for Use
The manufacturer’s directions should be followed for the preparation of any glue or adhesive. Unless
otherwise specified by the glue manufacturer, clear, cool water should be used with glues that require
mixing with water. The recommended proportions of glue, catalyst, and water or other solvent should
be determined by the weight of each component. Mixing can be either by hand or machine. Whatever
method is used, the glue should be thoroughly mixed and free of air bubbles, foam, and lumps of
insoluble material.
Applying the Glue/Adhesive
To make a satisfactorily bonded joint, it is generally desirable to apply adhesive to both surfaces and
join in a thin even layer. The adhesive can be applied with a brush, glue spreader, or a grooved rubber
roller. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s application instructions for satisfactory results.
Be careful to ensure the surfaces make good contact and the joint is positioned correctly before
applying the adhesive. Keep the open assembly time as short as possible and do not exceed the
recommended times indicated in the product data sheet.
Pressure on the Joint
To ensure the maximum strength of the bonded surfaces, apply even force to the joint. Nonuniform
gluing pressure commonly results in weak areas and strong areas in the same joint. The results of
applied pressure are illustrated in Figure 611.
Use pressure to squeeze the glue out into a thin continuous film between the wood layers, to force air
from the joint, to bring the wood surfaces into intimate contact with the glue, and to hold them in this
position during the setting of the glue.
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Pressure may be applied by means of clamps, elastic straps, weight, vacuum bags, or other
mechanical devices. Other methods used to apply pressure to joints in aircraft gluing operations range
from the use of brads, nails, and screws to the use of electric and hydraulic power presses.
The amount of pressure required to produce strong joints in aircraft assembly operations may vary
from 10 to 150 psi for softwoods and as high as 200 psi for hardwoods. Insufficient pressure to poorly
machined or fitted wood joints usually results in a thick glue line, indicating a weak joint, and should be
carefully avoided.
High clamping pressure is neither essential nor desirable, provided good contact between the surfaces
being joined is obtained. When pressure is applied, a small quantity of glue should be squeezed from
the joint. This excess should be removed before it sets. It is important that full pressure be maintained
on the joint for the entire cure time of the adhesive because the adhesive does not chemically relink
and bond if it is disturbed before it is fully cured.
The full curing time of the adhesive is dependent on the ambient temperature; therefore, it is very
important to follow the manufacturer’s product data sheets for all phases of the gluing operation from
the shelf life to the moisture content of the wood to the proper mixing of the adhesive to the
application, and especially to the temperature. The successful assembly and fabrication depends on the
workmanship and quality of the joints and following the glue manufacturer’s instructions.
All gluing operations should be performed above 70 °F for proper performance of the adhesive. Higher
temperatures shorten the assembly times, as does coating the pieces of wood with glue and exposing
openly to the air. This open assembly promotes a more rapid thickening of the glue than pieces being
mated together as soon as the spreading of the glue is completed.
Figure 612 provides an example of resorcinol resin glue and the allowable assembly times and gluing
pressure when in the open and closed assembly condition. All examples are for an ambient
temperature of 75 °F.
Figure 613 provides examples of strong and weak glue joints resulting from different gluing conditions.
A is a well glued joint with a high percentage of wood failure made under proper conditions; B is a
gluestarved joint resulting from the application of excessive pressure with thin glues; C is a dried glue
joint resulting from an excessively long assembly time and/or insufficient pressure.
Testing Glued Joints
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Satisfactory glue joints in aircraft should develop the full strength of the wood under all conditions of
stress. Tests should be made by the mechanic prior to gluing a joint of a major repair, such as a wing
spar. Whenever possible, perform tests using pieces cut from the actual wood used for the repair under
the same mechanical and environmental conditions that the repair will undergo.
Perform a sample test using two pieces of scrap wood from the intended repair, each cut approximately
1" * 2" * 4". The pieces should be joined by overlapping each approximately 2 inches. The type of glue,
pressure, and curing time should be the same as used for the actual repair. After full cure, place the
test sample in a bench vise and break the joint by exerting pressure on the overlapping member. The
fractured glue faces should show a high percentage of at least 75 percent of the wood fibers evenly
distributed over the fractured glue surface. [Figure 614]
Repair of Wood Aircraft Components
Wing Rib Repairs
Ribs that have sustained damage may be repaired or replaced, depending upon the type of damage and
location in the aircraft. If new parts are available from the aircraft manufacturer or the holder of a PMA
for the part, it is advisable to replace the part rather than to repair it.
If you make a repair to a rib, do the work in such a manner and using materials of such quality that
the completed repair is at least equal to the original part in aerodynamic function, structural strength,
deterioration, and other qualities affecting airworthiness, such as fit and finish. When manufacturer’s
repair manuals or instructions are not available, acceptable methods of repairing damaged ribs are
described in AC 43.131 under Wood Structure Repairs.
When necessary, a rib can be fabricated and installed using the same materials and dimensions from a
manufacturerapproved drawing or by reference to an original rib. However, if you fabricated it from an
existing rib, you must provide evidence to verify that the dimensions are accurate and the materials
are correct for the replacement part.
You can repair a cap strip of a wood rib using a scarf splice. The repair is reinforced on the side
opposite the wing covering by a spruce block that extends beyond the scarf joint not less than three
times the thickness of the strips being repaired. Reinforce the entire splice, including the spruce
reinforcing block, on each side with a plywood side plate.
The scarf length bevel is 10 times dimension A (thickness of the rib cap strip) with the spruce
reinforcement block being 16 times dimension A (the scarf length plus extension on either end of the
scarf). The plywood splice plates should be of the same material and thickness as the original plates
used to fabricate the rib. The spruce block should have a 5:1 bevel on each end. [Figure 615]
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These specific rib repairs describing the use of one scarf splice implies that either the entire forward or
aft portion of the cap strip beyond the damage can be replaced to complete the repair and replace the
damaged section. Otherwise, replacement of the damaged section may require a splice repair at both
ends of the replaced section of the cap strip using the indicated dimensions for cutting and reinforcing
of each splice.
When a cap strip is to be repaired at a point where there is a joint between it and cross members of
the rib, make the repair by reinforcing the scarf joint with plywood gussets, as shown in Figure 616.
If a cap strip must be repaired where it crosses a spar, reinforce the joint with a continuous gusset
extending over the spar, as shown in Figure 617.
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The scarf joints referred to in the rib repairs are the most satisfactory method of fabricating an end
joint between two solid wood members. When the scarf splice is used to repair a solid wood
component, the mechanic must be aware of the direction and slope of the grain. To ensure the full
strength of the joint, the scarf cut is made in the general direction of the grain on both connecting ends
of the wood and then correctly oriented to each other when glued. [Figure 618]
The trailing edge of a rib can be replaced and repaired by removing the damaged portion of the cap
strip and inserting a softwood block of white pine, spruce, or basswood. The entire repair is then
reinforced with plywood gussets and nailed and glued, as shown in Figure 619.
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Compression ribs are of many different designs, and the proper method of repairing any part of this
type of rib is specified by the manufacturer. All repairs should be performed using recommended or
approved practices, materials and adhesives.
Figure 620A illustrates the repair of a compression rib of the I section type (i.e., wide, shallow cap
strips, and a center plywood web with a rectangular compression member on each side of the web).
The rib damage suggests that the upper and lower cap strips, the web member, and the compression
members are cracked completely through. To facilitate this repair, cut the compression members as
shown in Figure 620D and repair as recommended using replacement sections to the rear spar. Cut the
damaged cap strips and repair as shown in Figure 620, replacing the aft section of the cap strips.
Plywood side plates are then bonded on each side diagonally to reinforce the damaged web as shown in
Figure 620, AA.
Figure 620B illustrates a compression rib of the type that is a standard rib with rectangle compression
members added to one side and a plywood web to the other side. The method used in this repair is
essentially the same as in Figure 620A, except that the plywood reinforcement plate, shown in Figure
620BB, is continued the full distance between the spars.
Figure 620C illustrates a compression rib of the I type with a rectangular vertical member on each
side of the web. The method of repair is essentially the same as in Figure 620A, except the plywood
reinforcement plates on each side, shown in Figure 620CC, are continued the full distance between
the spars.
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Wing Spar Repairs
Wood wing spars are fabricated in various designs using solid
wood, plywood, or a combination of the two. [Figure 621]
When a spar is damaged, the method of repair must conform to the manufacturer’s instructions and
recommendations. In the absence of manufacturer’s instructions, contact the FAA for advice and
approval before making repairs to the spar and following recommendations in AC 43.131. If
instructions are not available for a specific type of repair, it is highly recommended that you request
appropriate engineering assistance to evaluate and provide guidance for the intended repair.
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Shown in Figure 622 is a recommended method to repair either a solid or laminated rectangle spar.
The slope of the scarf in any stressed part, such as a spar, should not be steeper than 15 to 1.
Unless otherwise specified by the aircraft manufacturer, a damaged spar may be spliced at almost any
point except at wing attachment fittings, landing gear fittings, engine mount fittings, or liftand
interplane strut fittings. These fittings may not overlap any part of the splice. The reinforcement plates
of the splice should not interfere with the proper attachment or alignment of the fittings. Taper
reinforcement plates on the ends at a 5:1 slope [Figure 623].
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The use of a scarf joint to repair a spar or any other component of an aircraft is dependent on the
accessibility to the damaged section. It may not be possible to utilize a scarf repair where
recommended, so the component may have to be replaced. A scarf must be precisely cut on both
adjoining pieces to ensure an even thin glue line; otherwise, the joint may not achieve full strength.
The primary difficulty encountered in making this type of joint is obtaining the same bevel on each
piece. [Figure 624]
The mating surfaces of the scarf must be smooth. You can machine smooth a saw cut using any of a
variety of tools, such as a plane, a joiner, or a router. For most joints, you need a beveled fixture set at
the correct slope to complete the cut. Figure 625 illustrates one method of producing an accurate scarf
joint.
Once the two bevels are cut for the intended splice, clamp the pieces to a flat guide board of similar
material. Then, work a sharp, finetooth saw all the way through the joint. Remove the saw, decrease
pressure, and tap one of the pieces on the end to close the gap. Work the saw again through the joint.
Continue this procedure until the joint is perfectly parallel with matching surfaces. Then, make a light
cut with the grain, using a sharp plane, to smooth both mating surfaces.
Another method of cutting a scarf uses a simple scarfcutting fixture that you can also fabricate for use
with a router. Extend the work piece beyond the edge so the finished cut results in a feathered edge
across the end of the scarf. [Figure 626]
There are numerous tools made by individuals, and there are commercial plans for sale with
instructions for building scarf There are numerous tools made by individuals, and there are commercial
plans for sale with instructions for building scarfcutting tools. Most of them work, but some are better
than others. The most important requirement for the tool is that it produces a smooth, repeatable cut
at the appropriate angle.
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Local damage to the top or bottom edge of a solid spar may be repaired by removing the damaged
portion and fabricating a replacement filler block of the same material as the spar. Full width doublers
are fabricated as shown and then all three pieces are glued and clamped to the spar. Nails or screws
should not be used in spar repairs. A longitudinal crack in a solid spar may be repaired using doublers
made from the proper thickness plywood. Care must be taken to ensure the doublers extend the
minimum distance beyond the crack. [Figure 627]
A typical repair to a builtup I spar is illustrated using plywood reinforcement plates with solid wood
filler blocks. As with all repairs, the reinforcement plate ends should be feathered out to a 5:1 slope.
[Figure 628]
Repair methods for the other types of spar illustrated at the start of this section all follow the basic
steps of repair. The wood used should be of the same type and size as the original spar. Always splice
and reinforce plywood webs with the same type of plywood as the original. Do not use solid wood to
replace plywood webs because plywood is stronger in shear than solid wood of the same thickness. The
splices and scarf cuts must be of the correct slope for the repair with the face grain running in the
same direction as the original member. Not more than two splices should be made in any one spar.
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When a satisfactory repair to a spar cannot be accomplished, the spar should be replaced. New spars
may be obtained from the manufacturer or the holder of a PMA for that part. An ownerproduced spar
may be installed provided it is made from a manufacturerapproved drawing. Care should be taken to
ensure that any replacement spars accurately match the manufacturer’s original design.
Bolt and Bushing Holes
All bolts and bushings used in aircraft structures must fit snugly into the holes. If the bolt or bushing is
loose, movement of the structure allows it to enlarge the hole. In the case of elongated bolt holes in a
spar or cracks in close proximity to the bolt holes, the repair may require a new section to be spliced
in the spar, or replacement of the entire spar.
All holes drilled in a wood structure to receive bolts or bushings should be of such size that inserting
the bolt or bushing requires a light tapping with a wood or rawhide mallet. If the hole is so tight that
heavy blows are necessary, deformation of the wood may cause splitting or unequal load distribution.
For boring accurate smooth holes, it is recommended that a drill press be utilized where possible.
Holes should be drilled with sharp bits using slow steady pressure. Standard twist drills can be used in
wood when sharpened to a 60° angle. However, a better designed drill was developed for wood boring
called a lip and spur or brad point. The center of the drill has a spur with a sharp point and four sharp
corners to center and cut rather than walk as a conventional drill sometimes does. It has the outside
corner of the cutting edges leading, so that it cuts the periphery of the hole first and maximizes the
chance that the wood fibers cut cleanly, leaving a smooth bore.
Forstner bits bore precise, flat bottomed holes in wood, in any orientation with respect to the wood
grain. They must be used in a drill press because more force is needed for their cutting action. Also,
they are not designed to clear chips from the hole and must be pulled out periodically to do this. A
straight, accurate borethrough hole can be completed by drilling through the work piece and into a
piece of wood backing the work piece.
All holes bored for bolts that are to hold fittings in place should match the hole diameter in the fitting.
Bushings made of steel, aluminum, or plastic are sometimes used to prevent crushing the wood when
bolts are tightened. Holes drilled in the wood structure should be sealed after being drilled. This can be
accomplished by application of varnish or other acceptable sealer into the open hole. The sealer must
be allowed to dry or cure thoroughly prior to the bolts or bushings being installed.
Plywood Skin Repairs
Plywood skin can be repaired using a number of different methods depending on the size of the hole
and its location on the aircraft. Manufacturer’s instructions, when available, should be the first source
of a repair scheme. AC 43.131 provides other acceptable methods of repair. Some of those are
featured in the following section.
Fabric patch
A fabric patch is the simplest method to repair a small hole in plywood. This repair is used on holes not
exceeding 1inch in diameter after being trimmed to a smooth outline. The edges of the trimmed hole
should first be sealed, preferably with a twopart epoxy varnish. This varnish requires a long cure
time, but it provides the best seal on bare wood.
The fabric used for the patch should be of an approved material using the cement recommended by the
manufacturer of the fabric system. The fabric patch should be cut with pinking shears and overlap the
plywood skin by at least 1inch. A fabric patch should not be used to repair holes in the leading edge of
a wing, in the frontal area of the fuselage, or nearer than 1inch to any frame member.
Splayed Patch
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A splayed patch is a flush patch. The term splayed denotes that the edges of the patch are tapered,
with the slope cut at a 5:1 ratio to the thickness of the skin. This may be used for small holes where
the largest dimension of the hole to be repaired is not more than 15 times the skin thickness and the
skin is not more than 1/10inch thick. This calculates to nothing larger than a 1½inch trimmed hole in
very thin plywood.
Using the sample 1/10inch thick plywood and a maximum trimmed hole size of 1½inches, and cutting
a 5:1 scarf, results in a 2½inches round section to be patched. The patch should be fabricated with a
5:1 scarf, from the same type and thickness plywood as the surface being repaired.
Glue is applied to the beveled edges and the patch is set with the grain parallel to the surface being
repaired. A pressure plate of thicker plywood cut to the exact size of the patch is centered over the
patch covered with waxed paper. A suitable weight is used for pressure until the glue has set. The
repair is then sanded and finished to match the original surface. [Figure 629]
Surface Patch
Plywood skins not over 1/8inch thick that are damaged between or along framing members may be
repaired with a surface or overlay patch. Surface patches located aft of the 10 percent chord line, or
which wrap around the leading edge and terminate aft of the 10 percent chord line, are permissible.
You can use surface patches to patch trimmed holes up to a 50inch perimeter, and may cover an area
as large as one frame or rib space.
Trim the damaged area to a rectangle or triangular shape with rounded corners. The radius of the
corners must be at least 5 times the skin thickness. Doublers made of plywood at least ¼inch thick
are reinforcements placed under the edge of the hole inside the skin. Nail and glue the doublers in
place. Extend the doublers from one framing member to another and strengthen at the ends by saddle
gussets attached to the framing members. [Figure 630]
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The surface patch is sized to extend beyond the cutout as indicated. All edges of the patch are beveled,
but the leading edge of the patch should be beveled at an angle at least 4??1 of the skin thickness. The
facegrain direction of the patch must be in the same direction of the original skin. Where possible,
weights are used to apply pressure to a surface patch until the glue has dried. If the location of the
patch precludes the use of weight, small round head wood screws can be used to apply glue pressure
to secure the patch. After a surface patch has dried, the screws can be removed and the holes filled.
The patch should be covered with fabric that overlaps the original surface by at least 2inches. The
fabric should be from one of the approved fabric covering systems using the procedures recommended
by the manufacturer to cement and finish the fabric.
Plug Patch
Two types of plug patch, oval and round, may be used on plywood skins. Because the plug patch is only
a skin repair, use it only for damage that does not involve the supporting structure under the skin.
Cut the edges of a plug patch at right angles to the surface of the skin. Cut the skin also to a clean
round or oval hole with edges at right angles to the surface. Cut the patch to the exact size of the hole;
when installed, the edge of the patch forms a butt joint with the edge of the hole.
You can use a round plug patch where the cutout repair is no larger than 6inches in diameter. Sample
dimensions for holes of 4inches and 6inches in diameter appear in Figure 631.
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The following steps provide a method for making a round plug patch:
1. Cut a round patch large enough to cover the intended repair. If applicable for size, use the sample
dimensions in Figure 631. The patch must be of the same material and thickness as the original skin.
2. Place the patch over the damaged spot and mark a circle of the same size as the patch.
3. Cut the skin inside the marked circle so that the plug patch fits snugly into the hole around the entire
perimeter.
4. Cut a doubler of soft quarterinch plywood, such as poplar. A small patch is cut so that its outside
radius is 5/8inch greater than the hole to be patched and the inside radius is 5/8inch less. For a large
patch the dimensions would be increased to 7/8inch each. If the curvature of the skin surface is
greater than a rise of 1/8inch in 6inches, the doubler should be preformed to the curvature using hot
water or steam. As an alternative, the doubler may be laminated from two pieces of 1/8inch plywood.
5. Cut the doubler through one side so that it can be inserted through the hole to the back of the skin.
Place the patch plug centered on the doubler and mark around its perimeter. Apply a coat of glue
outside the line to the outer half of the doubler surface that will bear against the inner surface of the
skin.
6. Install the doubler by slipping it through the cutout hole and place it so that the mark is concentric
with the hole. Nail it in place with nailing strips, while holding a bucking bar or similar ob??ect under
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the doubler for backup. Place waxed paper between the nailing strips and the skin. Cloth webbing under
the nailing strips facilitates removal of the strips and nails after the glue dries.
7. After the glue has set for the installed doubler, and you have removed the nail strips, apply glue to
the inner half of the doubler and to the patch plug. Drill holes around the plug’s circumference to accept
No. 4 round head wood screws. Insert the plug with the grain aligned to the surface wood.
8. Apply the pressure to the patch by means of the wood screws. No other pressure is necessary.
9. After the glue has set, remove the screws and fill the nail and screw holes. Sand and finish to match
the original surface.
The steps for making an oval plug patch are identical to those for making the round patch. The
maximum dimensions for large oval patches are 7inches long and 5inches wide. Oval patches must
be cut, so when installed, the face grain matches the direction of the original surface. [Figure 632]
Scarf Patch
A properly prepared and installed scarf patch is the best repair for damaged plywood and is preferred
for most skin repairs. The scarf patch has edges beveled at a 12:1 slope; the splayed patch is beveled
at a 5:1 slope. The scarf patch also uses reinforcements under the patch at the glue joints.
Much of the outside surface of a plywood aircraft is curved. If the damaged plywood skin has a radius
of curvature not greater than 100 times the skin thickness, you can install a scarf patch. However, it
may be necessary to soak or steam the patch, to preform it prior to gluing it in place. Shape backing
blocks or other reinforcements to fit the skin curvature.
You can make scarf cuts in plywood with various tools, such as a hand plane, spoke shave, a sharp
scraper, or sanding block. Sawn or roughly filed surfaces are not recommended because they are
normally inaccurate and do not form the best glue joint.
The Back of the Skin is Accessible for Repair
When the back of a damaged plywood skin is accessible, such as a fuselage skin, repair it with scarf
patches cut and installed with the grain parallel to the surface skin. Details for this type of repair are
shown in Figure 633.
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Figure 633, Section AA, shows methods of support for a scarf between frame members using
permanent backing and gussets. When the damage follows or extends to a framing member, support
the scarf as shown in section BB. When the scarf does not quite extend to a frame member, support
the patch as shown in section CC.
Damage that does not exceed 25 times the skin thickness (31/8inches for 1/8inch thick skin) after
being trimmed to a circular shape can be repaired as shown in section DD, provided the trimmed
opening is not nearer than 15 times the skin thickness to a frame member (17/8inches for 1/8inch
thick skin).
A temporary backing block is carefully shaped from solid wood and fitted to the inside surface of the
skin. A piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap is placed between the block and the underside of the skin.
The scarf patch is installed and temporarily attached to the backing block, being held together in place
with nailing strips. When the glue sets, remove the nails and block, leaving a flush surface on both
sides of the repaired skin.
The Back of the Skin Is Not Accessible for Repair
To repair a section of the skin with a scarf patch when access to the back side is not possible, use the
following steps to facilitate a repair, as shown in Figure 634.
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Cut out and remove the damaged section. Carefully mark and cut the scarf around the perimeter of the
hole. Working through the cutout, install backing strips along all edges that are not fully backed by a
rib or spar. To prevent warping of the skin, fabricate backing strips from softtextured plywood, such as
yellow poplar or spruce, rather than a piece of solid wood.
Use nailing strips to hold backing strips in place while the glue sets. Use a bucking bar, where
necessary, to provide support for nailing. A saddle gusset of plywood should support the end of the
backing strip at all junctions between the backing strips and ribs or spars. If needed, nail and bond the
new gusset plate to the rib or spar. It may be necessary to remove and replace an old gusset plate with
a new saddle gusset, or nail a new gusset over the original.
Unlike some of the other type patches that are glued and installed as one process, this repair must
wait for the glue to set on the backing strips and gussets. At that point, the scarf patch can be cut and
fit to match the grain, and glued, using weight for pressure on the patch as appropriate. When dry, fill
and finish the repair to match the original surface.
Go back to the "FAAH808331 Vol 1 Index"
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