Hi-Styled High Speed Overseamers With Differential Feed For Foundation Garments
Hi-Styled High Speed Overseamers With Differential Feed For Foundation Garments
Hi-Styled High Speed Overseamers With Differential Feed For Foundation Garments
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
FINEST QUALITY
STYLE
39500 GR
CLASS 39500
HI-STYLED
CATALOG HIGH SPEED OVERSEAMERS
No. WITH DIFFERENTIAL FEED
103 GR FOR FOUNDATION GARMENTS
CHICAGO
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
Catalog No. 103 GR
(Supplement to Catalog No. 103 FA)
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
LIST OF PARTS
CLASS 39500
Style
39500 GR
First Edition
Copyright 1967
By
Union Special Machine Co.
Rights Reserved in All Countries
MACHINE COMPANY
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
CHICAGO
Decembe r, 196 7
Printed in U.S. A.
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IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINES
APPLICATION OF CATALOG
This catalog is a supplement to Catalog No. 103 FA and should be used in con-
junction therewith. Only those parts used on Style 39500 GR. but not on Style 39500
FP are illustrated and listed at the back of this catalog. On the page opposite the
illustration will be found a listing of the parts with their part numbers. desc ription
and the number of pieces required. Numbers in the first column are reference
numbers only. and merely indicate the position of that p a rt in the illustration. Re-
ference numbers should never be used i n ordering parts. Alw ays use the part num-
ber listed in the second column.
STYLE OF MACHINE
Hi-Styled High Speed Single Curved Blade Needle. Two Looper-Three Thread or
One Looper-One Spreader-Two Thread Machine. Differential Feed. Trimming Me-
chanism with Spring Pressed Lower Knife. Automatic Lubricating System.
39500 GR Medium to heavy duty machine for break open seaming and attaching of
elastic to girdle s and foundation garments with either a two or three thread
stitch. Machine can be u sed with or without the s t a ndard trimming knives. For
those who do not wi sh to trim the material. a front fabric guide is included.
Seam specification 503 or 505-SSa-1. hinged open to make LSa-1; standard
seam width 1/4 inch; stitch range 8-30 per inch; cam adjusted main and differ-
ential feeds. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R. P.M.
OILING
CAUTION! Oil was drained from machine when shipped. so reservoir must b e
filled before beginning to op e rate. Oil capacity of Class 39500 is six ounces. A
straight mineral oil of a Saybolt viscosity of 200 to 250 seconds at 100° Fahrenheit
should be used.
Machine is filled with oil at spring cap in top cover. Oil level is checked at
sight gauge on front of machine. Red bulb on oil level indicator should show between
gauge lines when machine is stationary.
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OILING {Continued)
The oil drain plug screw is located at back of machine near bottom edge of
base. It is a magnetic screw designed to accumulate possible foreign materials
that have entered the crank case. It should be removed and cleaned periodically.
NEEDLES
Each Union Special needle has both type and size number. The type number
denotes the kind of shank, point, length, groove, finish and other details. The size
number, stamped on the needle shank, denotes largest diameter of blade, measured
in thousandths of an inch, midway between shank and eye. Collectively, type and
size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all nee-
dles packaged and sold by Union Special.
Class 39500 machines use a curved blade needle. The standard recommended
needle for Style 39500 GR is Type 154 GHS. Below is the description and sizes
available of the recommended needle.
Success in the operation of Union Special machines can be secured only by use
of needles packaged under our brand n a me, ~ • which is backed by a re-
putation for producing highest quality n e edles in - materials and workmanship for
more than three-quarters of a century.
CHANGING NEEDLES
Release pressure on presser foot by turning presser foot release bushing {AG,
Fig. 1 and 1A) and s wing presser arm {U) out of position. Turn handwheel in opera-
ting di rection until needle is at its lowest point of travel. Using hexagonal socket
wrench No. 21388 AU, furnished with machine, loosen needle clamp nut about 1/4
turn. Again turn handwheel until needle is at high position; withdraw needle.
To replace needle, leave needle holder at high position and, with the flat to the
left, insert needle in holder until it rests against stop pin. Keeping needle in this
position, turn handwheel until holder is again at its low point of travel; then tighten
nut. Return presser arm (U) to position; re-lock presser foot release bushing {AG).
After thread comes from cone on cone support {A, Fig. lA) it is brought up
through the back hole of thread eyelet (B), then down through the front hole of thread
eyelet. The needle and upper looper threads are then threaded through the upper
hole of tension thread guide (C) from front to back, and then through the lower hole
from back to front. The lower looper thread is threaded through the upper hole back
to front. through the middle hole from front to back, and finally through the lower
hole from back to front. All three threads then continue b etween the tension discs
(J). through tension post slot (K) in tension post (G) and on through front thre ad
guide {M).
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 1 for the 503 stitch threading or refer to Fig. 1A for the 505
stitch threading.
THREADING
It will simplify the threading of these machines to follow the recommended se-
quence of threading the lower looper first and the needle second, when using the
503 stitch (Fig. 1). The recommended sequence when using the 505 stitch (Fig. 1A)
would be to thread the lower looper first, the upper looper second and the needle
third.
Before beginning to thread, swing cloth plate open, turn handwheel in ope r at-
ing direction until needle (X) is at high position, release pressure on presser foot
by turning presser foot release bushing {AG) and swing presser arm {U) out of
position.
Be sure the threads, as they come from the tension thread guide (C), are be-
tween tension discs (J) and in tension post slots (K) in tension post {G). The tension
posts should be positioned so the tension post slot will be at the approximate angle
for the different threads as indicated in Fig. 1 and 1A.
Double end of thread and lead it through the right eyelet of front thread guide
(M, Fig. 1 or 1A). Then lead thread through both eyes of lower looper thread ey e-
let (R, Fig. 1 or 1A) from right to left. NOTE: Thread must pass in front of looper
thread pull-off (AF). Lead thread behind fabric guard (S) and through frame loop er
thread guide (T). Turn handwheel in op e rating direction until heel of lower looper
{V) is all the way to the left, then thread through both eyes from left to right. Left
eye of lower looper can be threaded easily if tweezers are in left hand.
NOTE: In Fig. 1A for the 505 stitch, the low e r looper thread eyelet is placed in the
upper position.
Double end of thread and lead it through the left eyelet of front thread gui de (M,
Fig. 1A). Turn handwheel until point of upper looper (W, Fig. 1A) is all the way to
the left. Lead thread through auxiliary looper thread eyelet (P} from back to front,
then through both eyes of upper looper thread eyelet (N) from left to right.
Cone Support
ID Presser
Fig. 1
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li]Tension Nut
m
Thread Eyelet
--
__.....~':...' ;"
n Tension Discs ,
Top Cover
.-.~~ Needle Thread Eyelet
(;~Fabric Guard Bracket
Upper Looper
Thread Tube Assembly
DFrame Looper
Thread Guide
m Presser Arm---
Upper Looper
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TO THREAD THE UPPER LOOPER (505 STITCH ONLY) (Continued)
After pulling up upper looper thread tube assembly (AA). lead thread under
n e ck of top cover casting and down through thread tube assembly (AA). P ull thread
out bottom of tube; push tube down and then insert thread throug h the eye of upper
looper from front to back.
Turn handwheel in operating directi on until needle (X. Fig. 1 or 1A) is at its
hi ghest position. Insert needle thre ad from right to left. through both eyes of needle
thread eyelet (AD). under n e ck of top cover casting; then down through hole in top
cover needle threa d eyelet (AC). Thread needle from front.
THREAD TENSION
The amount of t ension on the needle and looper threads is regulated by knurled
tension nuts (D. F ig. 1 or 1A). Tension on threads should be only enough to secure
proper stitch formation.
FEED ECCENTRICS
Feed eccentrics used in Style 39500 GR machine s have been selected to produce
approximately 20 stitches per inch. It wi ll be noted that the part number of main
feed eccentric is No. 39540 B- 20, while that of differential feed eccentric is No.
39540 B-18. Minor numbers of the part symbol indicate approximately the number
of stit ches obtai nable when using that eccentric. Unless otherwise specified, rna-
chine will be shippe d with above combination of eccentrics.
Following stitch number feed eccentrics are available under No. 39540 B-4,- 5,
-6. -7. -a. -9.-10.-11.-12,-13,-14,-15.-16. -1a.-2o. -22.-24.-26,-28,-30,-32,-34,
-36,-40. Only two eccentrics are supplied with e ach machine. Additional eccentrics
may be ordered separately. To order an eccentric, use No. 39540 B with a minor
number suffixe d to i ndicate number of stitches desired. Example: "39540 B- 20".
Before assembling and adjusting sewing parts. remove cloth plate. fabric
guard. chip guard. upper knife assembly, lower knife holder assembly. then follow
this suggested sequence:
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ASSEMBLING AND ADJUSTING SEWING PARTS {Continued)
NOTE: The adjusting instructions that follow will pertain to both the 503 and the
505 stitch, the only difference is an upper spreader is used for the 503 stitch, while
an upper looper is used for the 505 stitch. All of the instructions are applicable fo r
both types of stitches, unless otherwise specified.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
SETTING THE UPPER LOOPER OR SPREADER
NOTE: The above settings also apply when s etting the upper looper used for the
505 stitch.
Now assemble mai n (back) feed dog (B, Fig. 11) and chaining feed (C). Set all
feed dogs (A, B, C, F i g. 11) so the top surfaces of the teeth all lie in the same
plane. This can be checked by s ighting across the teeth with a straight edge. Now
assemble throat plate. Feed dogs should now be l e veled with throat pl ate surface by
rotating feed tilting adjusting pin (D). Thi s pin raises or lowers the back end of both
feed bars at the same time.
The feed dogs should be set level at the time the teeth first appear above throat
plate. Screw (E) locks feed tilting adjusting pin in place. Now set the feed dogs so
that the teeth rise about 3/64 inch above the throat plate.
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SETTING THE LOWER KNIFE
Fig. 11
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SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH (Continued)
STARTING TO OPERATE
Be sure machi n e is threaded according to threading diagram Fig. 1 for the 503
stitch or according to Fig . 1A for the 505 stitch. With thread tensions light, set
looper thread ey e l e t (R, Fig. 1) or looper thread eyelets (Nand R, Fig. 1A) approx-
imately horiz ontal and in the middle of their front to back locations. Operate rna-
chine slowly, without presser foot in place, to make sure chain forms and moves
off stitch tongue freely. Swing press e r foot into position, i nsert material and sew
slowly.
While sewing on material, check needle thread control as follows: Usually all
of the needle thread required for the stitch i s drawn on the needle downstroke. With
needle at the bottom of its stroke, needle thread cam pull-off (AE, Fig. 1 or 1A)
should just touch the needle thread. To increase the amount of needle thread drawn
on the downstroke, position needle thread eyelet (AD) farther to the rear.
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LOWER LOOPER THREAD CONTROL
Set lower looper thread eyelet (R, Fig. 1 or 1A) approximately horizontal.
Frame looper thread guide (T) should be set with its eyelet approximately 1/8 inch
to the right of lower looper (V) heel eyelet, at the time the lower looper is at the
extreme left end of its travel.
With material under presser foot, set upper looper thread eyelet (N, Fig. lA)
so it contacts the lower looper thread eyelet (R) and is back far enough so upper
looper thread is a little slack when upper looper reaches the left end of its stroke.
THREAD TENSIONS
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The parts illustrated on the preceding page and described below, represent the
parts that are used on Style 3 9500 GR, but are not used on Style 3 9500 FP.
Those parts shown in phantom views and bearing no reference numbers are common
to Styles 39500 GRand FP.
Use Catalog No. 103 FA (Style 39500 FP) for all parts not illustrated or described
here.
Reference numbers that are inside a bracket on the picture plate and have indented
descriptions, indicate they are components of a complete part or assembly.
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WORLD'S FINEST QUALITY
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
,, .,,
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UNION SPECIAL maintains sales and service
facilities throughout the world. These offices will
aid you in the selection of the right sewing
equipment for your particular operation. Union
Special representatives and service men are fac-
tory trained and are able to serve your needs
promptly and efficiently. Whatever your loca-
tion, there is a Union Special Representative to
serve you. Check with him today.
MACHINE COMPANY
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC