Copy of Lecture delivered by

(Prof.) Shiam C. VARSHNEY

USE OF NATURALS
in Perfumery Compounds
for
INCENCE STICKS

On the occasion of
ONE DAY SEMINAR
Organised Jointly by
FAFAI, EOAI & AIAMA
at
Bangalore
On
February 24, 2008

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

Use of NATURALS in perfumery for
Incense Sticks
by Shiam C. Varshney

During one of the conferences, President of Fragrance Division of M/s

Robertet, (France) said, “During last 50 years, all succesfull perfumes,
releseased globally, are based on natural oils.”

Dr. Roman Kaiser in his famous Book “Meaningful scents around the
World” has stated:-

“ I have visited so many rain forest biotops during the past ten years in my
quest for new molecules and new scent concepts.”

Nature has created innumerous scents as a part of its biological process. The
purpose of creation of individual scents for flowers / herbs etc. is not to
make human life more colorful and nature more attractive to look at but to
sustain the balance of life on earth or to assist the regenerative process of
many living species.

These scents attract pollinators by their most specific odour and also offer
them some food as a bonus to enable the pollinators to visit them again . No
two scents of flowers or herbs resemble each other otherwise there would be
cross-pollination.

The idea of describing this known statements is to emphasize that NATURE

is supreme. Most of the molecules have been created by nature and
discovered and utilized by scientists. Moreover the concepts of scents or, as
perfumers say, the inspiration or creativity comes only after studying,
analyzing, developing & utilizing natural scents of flowers, herbs, woods,
balsams, & berries etc.

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

So, what is perfumery?
During ancient times, perfumery was simply an art based on knowledge of
natural scents and utilizing the same in creating a “SCENT” which is
pleasant and attractive to human beings.

In order to make this definition more realistic and modern let us add some
more words to it i.e. “to create a scent which is unique, pleasant and
attractive to human beings and able to create a lasting impression.”

You may apply this definition to all type of fragrances – fine as well as
functional but when it comes to functional (more specifically for incense
sticks), a scent should also be cost effective.

Now, NATURAL AND COST EFFECTIVE- these two words do not go

together in many cases but still are very relevant when we are discussing the
use of naturals in creation of fragrance for incense sticks.

Following are some desirable attributes for creating a fragrance for incense
sticks-
1. It should be pleasant;
2. It should be unique;
3. It should be attractive or SENSUAL;
4. It should be cost effective;
5. a) It should be effective on burning or let us say-all
ingredients should be able to evaporate from the stick
before burning or during the process of burning without
degradations.
b) It should not produce any burnt or smoky note.
6. It should be able to create long lasting impression.
How to incorporate most of these attributes in a fragrance by using
„NATURALS‟and that too in a most cost effective way, is the main theme
of this lecture today.

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

Before we start discussing on this main theme, it would be a good exercise
to understand the naturals. Many perfumer/scientists do not understand the
quality and strength of naturals in perfumery.
Many advance analytical techniques are available to scientists / perfumers to
analyze the complex but interesting scents of naturals. The quest for
unfolding the mysteries of natural scents is still so alive as it was 100 years
ago when only a few synthetic molecules were available to perfumers. That
is the reason, the whole modern day perfumery revolves around the
naturals. The importance of naturals in creative perfumery is very well
known to perfumers but still only a few possess the ability and
understanding of using these to their advantage.
A natural is used in a fragrance for its unique character, intensity,
diffusiveness, strength and, over and above, for its naturalizing effect on the
blend.
Naturalizing effect comes from their very complex composition having
hundreds of trace and minor constituents.
However, many perfumers still claim that they generally are able to create
their own lavender or geranium oil (RECON) just by mixing 20/30 major/
minor ingredients.

A natural oil is a mixture of more than hundreds of minor and trace

molecules some of which possessing very low threshold values i.e. below
1.00 ppb in air/water.
Now, let us consider few examples – lavender oil, jasmine absolute, &
tuberose absolute.
a) LAVENDER OIL

The known constituents of lavender oil are –

MAJOR (More than 1.0%)

Linalool Lavandulyl Acetate

Linalyl Acetate Caryophyllene (Beta)
Borneol 1- octen-3-yl acetate
Terpin- 4- ol

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

 MINOR (Less than 1% and more than 0.1% )
1-octen-3-ol Terpineol
3-octanone Linalyl formate
Myrecene Geranyl acetate
Ocimenes Santalene
Eucalyptol Farnesene
Linalool oxides Cadinenes
Camphor Germacrene-D
Lavendulol Undecatriene,
Caryo oxide Pinenes
Camphene
3-Octanol
Delta – 3 – Carene
Cymenes
Limonenes
Terpinenes
TRACES (Less than 0.1%)
Methyl n hexyl ether Sabinene hydrates
Cis- 3-hexenol Bornyl acetate
Hexenol Cumin alcohol
Hexyl acetate Decyl tiglate
3 – Octyl acetate Pino carvyl fomate
Myroxide Vervenyl acetate
Hexyl Iso butyrate Hexyl hexanoate
Methyl cyclo pantiendiene Cubebenes
Crotonaldehyde Bourbonenes
Methyl vinyl ketone Zingeberenes
1-penten-3-one Lavandulyl iso butyrate
1-hexen-3-one Cadin 4- en-10-ol
1-octen-3-one Coumrin
Farnesals Nerolidol Acetate
Ionones Humulene
Methyl jasmonate Cadinols
Santalal – alfa Bicyclosesquiphellendrene
Santalal- tri-cyclo eka Bisabolol

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

 Oceminol Calamenene
Dihydro para cymene Photosantalols
Crypton Rosefuran
4-thujamole Nerol oxide
Hexyl methyl 3-butyrate Damascenone
Bornyl formate Perillene
Thujnyl acetate M.Salicylate
Bergamotenes Eugenol
o-hyroxycumin aldehyd
Guaiacol
2-acetyl pyridine
2-iso propentyl – 2-methyl-
pyridene and many more
The uniqueness and strength of lavender oil comes from these hundreds of
trace ingredients which are more powerful than the entire sum of major +
minor ingredients. Out of these at least few trace ingredients, possess low
threshold value of less than one ppb.
b) Jasmine absolute
The known constituents of Jasmine absolute are:-
MAJOR (More than 1.0%)
Benzyl acetate 20.00
Benzyl benzoate 17.00
Linalool 7.70
Phytol 9.40
Isophytol 7.40
Iso phytol acetate 6.10
Indol 3.00
Geranyl linalool 3.20
Squalene 3.00
Cis-jasmone 1.60
Eugenol 2.20
Methyl linolenate 2.00
Benzyl alcohol 1.90
Methyl plamitate 1.50
Cis-3-hexenyl benzoate 1.00
By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)
 Jasmin Lactone 1.00

Total 88.00

MINOR (Less than 1% and more than 0.1%)

Methyl benzoate Benzyl salicylate

Alpha-farnesene Hexahydro franesyl-
acetone
Nerolidol Methyl jasmonate
Nerolidyl acetate P-cresol
Methyl trans-(Z)-jasmonate Neophytadiene
Methyl-N-acetylanthranilate Geraniol
Methyl anthranilate Farnesals
Methyl-N-Methyl anthranilate Terpineol
Linalool oxides Vanillian
Phytyl hexadecanoate 6-Methyl-5-en-2-one
Neophytadiene Gamma butralactone
Gernyl acetate Iso eugenol
Cis-3-hexenyl acetate Caryophyllene
TRACE (Less than0.1%)

Hexyl butyrate S-decalactone

M.caprylate Jasmonate acid
lactone
Nonanal / Decanal Ethyl cis-(Z)-
jasmonate
4-methyl 5-vinyl-nicotenate Ethyl trans-(Z)-
jasmonate
Cis-dec-7-en-5-olide Methyl 4,5
dihydrojasmonate
Phenyl acetonitrile Sulfides
2-Phenyl nitroethane
2-vinyl pyridine

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

 2-Methyl quinolene
Hexan-4-olide
Heptane-4-olide
Decan-4-olide
Nonal-4-olide
4-Methyl hex-5-en-4-olide
(cis) dec-7-en-olide
3-Ethyl pyridene
3-vinyl pyridene
3-ethyl-4M pyridene
3-vinyl-4-M pyridene
Methyl and ethyl nicotinates
Iso prop 3 methoxy pyrazine
c) Tuberose absolute: -
The known constituents of tuberose absolute are:-
MAJOR (More than 1.0%)

Methyl palmitate 14.5 Eugenol methyl ether 2.2

Methyl benzoate 12.2 Benzyl salicylate 2.1
Benzyl benzoate 10.4 Benzyl alcohol 1.8
Ethyl oleate 5.3 Palmitate acid 1.4
Alpha-Terpineol 4.0 Oleic acid 1.3
1,8-cineol 3.8
Methyl salicylate 13.6 Total 68.5
Farnesol 3.5
Methyl anthranilate 2.4
MINOR (Less than 1% and more than 0.1%)
5-decanolide
Jasmine lactone
TRACE (Less than 0.1%)

Massoialactone 5-Dodecen-4-olide

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

 Tuberolactone 1-Nonen-4-ol
5-Undecanolide Alpha-damascone
5-Dodecanolide Anethole
5-Tetradecanolide 6-Methyl-alpha-pyrone
4-pentonolide p-Methoxyphenylacetonitrile
4-Octanolide Epoxyeugenol
4-Nonanolide 5Z-Octen-4-olide
4-Decanolide 5Z-Decen-4-olide
4-Undecanolide 6Z-Nonen-4-olide
4-Dodecanolide 6Z-Dodecen-4olide
Methyl dihydrocinnamate 6Z,9Z-Dodecadien-4-olide
Hexyl methyl ether Tuberolide
Phenylacetonitrile Nitrogen compounds(>10 Nos)

The total odour intensity of these trace constituents is at least 5 times

more than the odour intensity of major and minor ingredients
combined.
Now, let us discuss about various techniques of perfumery and how
“naturals” are used in these techniques:-
EASTERN TECHNIQUE OF PERFUMERY
The first technique of fragrance creation, which was the only technique
of the 19th Century, is termed as Eastern Techneque of perfumery as
this was originated in eastern countries including INDIA and practiced
by them for so many years. Phillippe Guerlian, (1925) the promoter of
SHALIMAR, says, “India and South East Asia have always
fascinated my family. It is the birthplace of perfumery, the cradle of
civilization, which taught Arabia the art of perfume. Later, fragrant
oils came to Europe from India, Burma, Thailand and Indonesia
along the trade roads through Iran. That is why, my family always
returns to the roots of perfumery, to the orient where perfume
began.”
In this technique only naturals are used in the form of essential oils or
absolutes or resinoids or tinctures. However, with the passage of time,

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

this technique did not proved to be very cost effective and remained
applicable only to classical fragrances, such as JICKY, SHALIMAR,
CHANEL No. 5 etc.
The end of 19th Century, witnessed the synthesis of many aroma
chemicals, which were used by famous perfumery houses to add new
creativity to their formulations.
WESTERN THEORY OF PERFUMERY
Industrial synthesis of natural odorants in 19th century
1855 Benzyl alcohol
1855 Phenyl acetic acid
1866 Coumrin
1870 Benzaldehyde
1876 Vanillian
1883 Phenyl acetic aldehyde
1884 Cinamic aldehyde
1885 Terpineol
1886 Methyl salicylate
1890 Heliotropin
1891 Nitro musks
1892 Ionones
By middle of 20th century, the whole technique was westernized and
use of synthetic chemicals became the art of perfumery. By the end of
20th century, lot of research went in digging further the presence of
hundreds of trace chemicals into natural oils or absolutes and perfumers
started utilizing of potent aroma chemicals in natural
herbs/flowers/woods/roots to create top class classicals.
MODERN THEORY OF PERFUMERY
Using natural oils with nature identical, low threshold molecules, to
create the desired character with natural effects and combining
these with usual synthetic aroma chemicals, is modern art and

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

science of perfumery, which is equally applicable to fragrances for
incense sticks.
Modern technique of perfumery also takes into account the theory of
contrast in perfumery.
Theory of Contrast
Imagine a „jasmine‟ without the use of civet, indol, cresol derivatives
and pyrazines or nicotinates or similar animalic note ingredients.

Imagine a „Rose‟ without the use of sulfur molecules!

As explained earlier, every flower‟s scent possesses an attracting power
which comes from many trace ingredients which are part of “Dying
Tissue Odours” and are classified under animalic, balsamic,
empyrumatic and repulsive categories of odour.

The odors generated by above “trace” ingredients are highly potent and
are considered unpleasant or repulsive in their concentrated form.
When such unpleasant odours are combined in traces with many
pleasant floral, fresh, fruity or other similar “Living Tissue odours”, a
true flower accord or a classic fragrance is created. This is known as
“Theory of contrast” in perfumery creation.
There are so many natural or nature identical ingredients, which owing
to their very characteristics or intense odours, even when used in traces
can change the complete character of a fragrance.
Examples are: Civet, Castorium, Buchu leaf, Galbanum, etc.
Generally this change of characters is achieved by adding contrast to
the blend.
So, let us revise our definition of modern technique of perfumery.
Modern technique of perfumery is the art and science of using
naturals (which are cost effective) with synthetics and utilising
many trace and minor ingredients of low threshold values found in
By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)
natural oils / absolutes to achieve the desired natural uniqueness &
strength in a fragrance, with lasting impression.
Referring to the analysis of odours written by the author, you will
observe that a fragrance is incomplete unless you add some sensual,
empyrumatic, repulsive, balsamic or earthy character as represented by
the bottom segment of the wheel.
According to Charles(1961) sharp contrast have their place in fine
as well as functional perfumery similar to other arts, like , music or
paintings. An excess of polish or rounding off can, at worst, result
in a subdued characterless composition.

LIVING TISSUE ODOURS

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

 DYING TISSUE ODOURS
Next, let us discuss, how one can achieve the cost effectiveness by using
NATURALS or their potent isolates. Many natural essential oils are still
best value for money, only perfumer has to learn the art of using these in
his/her compositions:-
Some of these oils are:-
Ajowan oil Kapoor katchri oil
Basil oil Lavandin oil
Black pepper oil Lemon oil
Calamus oil Lemongrass oil
Cederwood oil(Indian) M.Citrata oil
Cinamon leaf oil Nagarmotha oil
Citronella oil Nutmeg oil
Clove leaf oil Orange oil
Corrinder oil Patchouli oil
Dill seed oil Peppermint oil
Geranium oil Petitgrain oil
Ginger oil Spearmint oil
Guaicwood oil Turmeric leaf oil
Jamrosa oil/Palmrosa oil
Jatamansi oil

However, their judicious use in functional fragrances is not only an art but a
challenge as well.
A perfumer cannot take the liberty of using exotic oils in low-cost
fragrances. Then, how to obtain that natural, unique and divine, feeling in a
functional fragrance!
Let me explain this by siting few examples-
Our first presentation is a creation of one of the natural oils for functional
perfumery ie Lemon peel oil. Our target is natural oil from ITALY OR
ARGENTINA and our limitation is COST.

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

 Lemon Oil 330
INGREDIENTS Area INGREDIENTS Area
% %
Aldehyde C – 11 0.02 Lime oxide 0.20
Galbanum Oil Eco (SIVA) 0.02 Aldehyde C-8 0.24
Corinder Oil Eco (SIVA) 0.02 Aldehyde C-9 0.25
Aldehyde C- 12 0.03 Linalool 0.30
Coumrin 0.03 Bisabolene (Siva) 0.30
DHM 0.05 Tee tree Oil 0.30
Basil Oil (camphor type) 0.07 Geranyl acetate 0.40
GHB 66 (SIVA) 0.08 Neryl Acetate 0.50
Hedione 0.13 Haldi leaf Oil 0.50
C-8 Alcohol 0.10 Terpineol 1.00
C-10 Alcohol 0.10 Gamma terpinene 2.00
Allyl caproate 0.10 Alpha + beta pinene cut (Mentha) 3.00
Jasmin oxide 0.10 Citral 3.65
Nerolidol 0.10 Alpha pinene 5.00
Methyl myral (TADI) 0.10 Orange terpenes 80.60
Citrathal (SIVA) 0.40

Our next presentation is creation of a oriental fragrance, FIRDAUS 2007 :

FIRDAUS – 2007
INGREDIENTS % INGREDIENTS %

Amroxon 0.10 Methyl ionone (gamma) 1.00

Cin.Alcohol 0.10 Fine Timber 1.00
Heliotropin 0.10 Vetiver Oil 77 (SIVA) 1.00
Iso eugenol 0.60 Geranium Oil 77 (SIVA) 1.00
Floralcetal 0.20 Linalool 1.50
M. anthranilate 0.20 Citronellol 1.50

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)

Rhuboxide (TADI) 0.20 Jasmin Oxide 1.80
Vetac 0.20 Benzyl acetate 2.00
C- 18 aldehyde 0.30 Iso E super 2.00
Javanol 10% 0.30 Herbolite M 110 (SIVA) 2.00
Hedione 0.30 Tonalid 2.00
Evernyl 0.30 Benzyl salicylate 3.00
GHB 66 (SIVA) 0.30 Hydroxy citronellal 3.00
Herbalmate 0.40 Eth. Brasslate 3.00
Herbox 0.50 Styryl acetate 4.00
Jamrosa Oil 0.50 Galaxolide 50 4.00
Vet Acetate Art (SIVA) 0.50 Bacdanol 4.00
Citrathal 0.50 Terpinyl Acetate 4.00
Lemon grass Oil 0.30 Lilial 5.00
C-12 MNA 0.60 Lemon Oil 330 (SIVA) 5.00
Vetcon (TADI) 0.70 Sandela 6.00
DHM acetate 0.80 Patchouli select 11 7.00
Fasli Gulab 1508 (SIVA) 1.00 Hex. Cin.Aldehyde 10.00
Glyco greenal 1.00 Lin. acetate 10.00
Jasmin absolute art 88 (SIVA) 1.00 DPG 3.00
Coumarin 1.00

TOTAL 100.00

THANK YOU

By Prof. S.C Varshney (Chairman/R&D Head-SOM VARSHNEY GROUP)