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 ASHA ROBE

LINEN LUXE MEETS LOUNGE

That easy, comfortable linen piece you reach for
to envelop yourself after a relaxing bath or just
entertaining at home with close friends.
Misses and Women Sizes Included

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 ASHA PATTERN
Asha is a high-waist, A-line wrap dress with 3/4 length
raglan sleeves. Although we envisioned it to be an
upgraded bathrobe, this stylish piece surprised us... easily
crossing the lines between lounge and daywear.

Sized for ladies 0/2 to 28/30

Simple instructions for the intermediate sewist.

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 PICTURED: LAURA WEARING IL020 3.5 OZ LINEN IN COBALT.
FOLLOW THE LINK HERE TO SHOP THIS COLOR.

Our lovely model Laura is 5’10” and wearing size 4/6 of this pattern with no
adjustments.

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PATTERN DETAILS
ASHA ROBE
Sizes: 0/2 to 28/30

- Wrap Front - Semi-fitted

- Two-part raglan sleeves 3/4 length
- Front bust seams
- Slight A-Line skirt shape
- Bias bands at neckline/front edges
- Doubled tie belt to loop at side
- Two buttons/buttonholes at waist

PATTERN DOWNLOAD FABRICS & SUPPLIES

IMPORTANT: Open this PDF using the Fabrics:
most current Adobe Acrobat Reader [] Main fabric: medium weight linen
to access and print all the included [] Trim/sash: contrast color of linen.
files and size layers.
Get it FREE - https://get.adobe.com/reader/ Click HERE to shop our IL020 colors!
*TIP! In Adobe Reader press the
F4 key to reveal the icons for Notions:
Page Thumbnails, Attachments [] Two flat buttons for closure at front
and Layers. You can also waist, size 3/8” to 1/2” diameter.
use the drop-down menu:
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SIZING & YARDAGE
Misses/Women's Size Guide Based on Body Measurements in Inches
Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Bust 33-34 35-36 37-38 39-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
Waist 25-26 27-28 29-30 31-32 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48
Hip 35-36 37-38 39-40 41-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58

Finished Garment Measurements - Approximate in Inches

Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Bust 35 37 39 41 45 49 53 57
Waist (high) 32 34 36 38 42 46 50 54
Hips 42 44 46 48 52 56 60 64
Dress Length 37 1/5 37 1/2 37 4/5 38 1/8 38 5/9 39 39 2/5 39 5/6
Sleeve Inseam 15 4/7 15 5/8 15 2/3 15 3/4 15 4/5 15 6/7 16 16

Estimated Yardage - 54" Width Linen - Shrinkage Has Been Calculated

Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Main Fabric 2 yards 3 yards
Contrast 1 yard 1 yard

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PATTERN & CUTTING GUIDES
PATTERN PIECE REFERENCE

A: FRONT BODICE - CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”

F G
B: SIDE FRONT BODICE - CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
A
B C: FRONT SKIRT- CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
E
D D: BACK - CUT 1 IN LINEN CENTER BACK “ON FOLD”
E: BELT LOOP- CUT 2 IN LINEN
C
F: FRONT SLEEVE- CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
H
G: BACK SLEEVE- CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
H: CUFF- CUT 2 IN CONTRAST LINEN

BIAS STRIPS- CUT 4 TO 6 LENGTHS IN CONTRAST LINEN

Bias for contrast bands and waist tie.

CUTTING LAYOUT EXAMPLES

Contrast- All Sizes
4 Bias Strips for 0 to 14
6 Bias Strips for 16 to 30
Selvage

Main Fabric- Sizes 0 to 14

Selvages

Folded Edge

Selvage

Main Fabric- Sizes 16 to 30

Selvages

Folded Edge

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SEWING & PREPARATION TIPS:
Sewing with quality linen from Fabrics-Store is very enjoyable! Linen is a stable fabric
that does not easily shift or slip, which is a very helpful characteristic for sewing a neat
and even seam with little effort. You do not need to “push” or “pull” the fabric while
sewing... just simply guide it.

Pre-washing: You will want to prewash and dry your linen fabric in the same manner
you would your finished garment. This will soften your fabric, and eliminate further
shrinkage in your final garment.
Some prefer to wash their fabric twice in hot water to ensure all possible shrinkage has
occurred. If you plan on only dry cleaning your final garment, likewise you will want to
dry clean the fabric before cutting and sewing. Secure the raw edges with a zig-zag or
serger stitch before washing to avoid fraying. You may also sew the two raw edges
together to form a continuous piece to avoid twisting in the wash. Remove fabric
from dryer while it is still slightly moist. Press any deep creases or wrinkles using your
iron’s steam setting with high heat, using a protective press cloth if needed to avoid
scorching.

Fine Seaming: To ensure that your seaming will last as long as your linen garment, we
encourage “single-needle” tailoring and French seaming. Once you think of French
seams as simply sewing the seam twice to encase the raw edges, you will see that it
does not take that much more time than the second step of using a serger. Setting the
stitch length on your sewing machine to 2mm (about 12-14 stitches per inch) makes
for a very durable seam, and is also an attractive indication of fine tailoring.

Alternate Seaming: If you instead prefer to stitch your seams regularly and serge the
raw edges, simple sew the seams with the full 5/8” allowance. You can then serge the
raw edges, allowing the machine to trim 1/8” off the edges. This will result in seam
allowances finishing at 1/2”.

Pressing: For best results, it is highly recommended that you press your seams as you
finish sewing each of them. Pressing with a steam iron (and press cloth if needed) will
help “set” the stitches into the fabric. You will find it is much easier to press your
seams “as you go” instead of trying to press them all after the garment is finished.

Sewing Glossary: If certain sewing terms and techniques are new to you, please refer
to the sewing glossary at the end of this document.

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Sew front bust princess seams. Next, wrap the unsewn bias edge
Carefully ensure you have a “left” around to the front. Topstitch the
and “right” bodice. pressed edge to catch and cover
2. Sew front bodice pieces to front the previous seam. Be sure to tuck
skirt pieces under the ends of the bias strips at
the bottom of the dress hem.
3. Sew sides seams of front dress to
side seams of back dress 12. Belt/tie: Join the ends of the
remaining bias strips to the desired
4. Sew inseams and overseams of
length of your belt/tie. We like a
sleeves. Carefully ensure you have
double-length tie to simply “loop
a “left” and “right” sleeve.
and hang” instead of having to tie a
5. Sew sleeves into armholes knot. For the double tie, the total
6. Stay stitch/ease neckline edges to length should be twice your waist
prevent the fabric from stretching. measurement plus and additional
7. Hem the bottom of the skirt with 36”. For a singles tie, the total length
your preferred method. should be your waist measurement
plus an additional 36”
8. Neckline/front binding: Sew ends
of bias binding strips for joining to 13. Sewing the belt: fold right sides
your desired length. together and stitch 1/2” along the
ends and full length. Leave about
9. Press a 1/2” fold along each side of
a 2” opening. Turn inside out,
the full length of the bias binding of
neatly press. Close the opening by
the neckline. Next, fold the entire
topstitching or a hand slip stitch.
in half along the full length.
14. Sew the belt loops right sides
10. Pin the right side of one of the
together on their length, leaving
edges of the neckline bias strip to
the ends open. Turn inside out and
the wrong side of the dress neckline
neatly press. Fold under the ends
and front. Leave an Carefully ease/
1/4” and press. Attach the beltloops
compress the bias to curve slightly
at waist level on the back waist near
around the corners of the front
the side seams by topstiching the
waist. Let the bias extend 1/2” past
upper and lower edges. Be sure to
the hem.
give a little slack in the belt loop so
11. Stitch together with 1/2” seam. the sash can easily pass through it.

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS (continued):
15. Cuff: Press the cuff pieces in the
same manner that you did with the
bias strips. First press the longer
edges under by 1/2”, then the full
length wrong sides together. Join
the edges so the cuff is s closed
loop. Pin the right side of one of
the edges cuff to the wrong side of
the sleeve, aligning the joined seam
of the cuff slightly behind the inseam
of the sleeve.
16. Stitch together with 1/2” seam.
Next, wrap the unsewn cuff edge
around to the front. Topstitch the
pressed edge to catch and cover the
previous seam.
17. If desired, stitch buttons and
buttonholes to the front waist on
the under and overlap as indicated
on the pattern.

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Glossary:
Basting Stitch: A temporary hand or Grainline- cross grain: The direction of
machine loose or long stitch to hold a fabric going from selvage edge to selvage
seam in place before sewing the final edge. In woven fabric, these would also be
permanent stitching. known as the weft threads of the weave.

Bias grain: In woven fabrics, this is the Grainline- on grain: The direction of fabric
diagonal direction at 45 degrees to the running parallel to the selvage edge of
grain and crossgrain. There are two bias the cloth. This is also referred to as the
directions in the cloth, perpendicular to “lengthwise grain”. In woven fabric, these
each other. would also be known as the “warp” threads
of the weave.
Buttonhole: A slit in the fabric to fasten
a button. The raw edges of the slit are Notch- outward: Markings on the pattern
finished with a machine or hand sewn zig- that indicate an outward triangular cut
zag stitch. outside the seam allowance. Notch
markings will be arranged to show where
Edge stitch: A row of top stitching very two seam edges join properly together.
close to a seamed edge or folded edge, A single wedge will often indicate a front
usually about 1/16th of an inch. piece, and 2 to 3 wedges together can
indicate back pieces.
Fabric- right side: The side of the fabric
which will be the exposed, outside part of Notch- snip: Markings on the pattern
a garment. that indicate a small “snip” into the
seam allowance. Notch marking will be
Fabric- wrong side: The inside of the fabric arranged to show where two seam edges
which will be the unexposed side or inside join properly together. A single notch will
of a garment. often indicate a front piece, and 2 to 3
notches together can indicate back pieces.
French seam: A seam sewn in two steps to
encase the raw edges of the fabric within Overlock machine: A specialized sewing
itself, giving a clean finish. 1- Wrong sides machine designed to sew and cut along
together, sew 1/4” seam. 2- Turn right the raw edge of a fabric seam with a
sides together, stitch 3/8” seam. Total networked stitch to secure the edges from
5/8” seam allowance. fraying. Also known as a ”serger” machine.

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Glossary (continued):

Press cloth: A piece of cloth used to lay

over a garment to protect it while ironing
from burning or scorching. Usually made
of cotton or linen or wool.

Raw edge: The cut edge of fabric. If not

secured with stitching or a finishing, the
raw edge of a fabric can fray or unravel.

Seam allowance: The distance from the

cut edge of a pattern piece to the sewing
line. Seam allowances can vary, so be sure
to double check the indicated amounts on
your pattern.

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 Thank you
We work hard on making our patterns beautiful enough to
meet your standards.

If you feel like sharing praise or helpful criticism, please

send us your comments to ask@fabrics-store.com

Pattern and illustrated instructions

by Catina Ferraine
for Fabrics-Store.com

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