Historical Rose 'Mme Isaac Pereire

Its large, elegantly filled flowers awaken a longing for nostalgic gardens from the Romantic period. The
flowers of the historic rose 'Mme Isaac Pereire' shine in a strong crimson pink and are covered with a hint
of purple. When fully open, a golden yellow eye peeks out of its quartered petals. The flowers exude an
intense and seductive scent. With the large, dark green leaves, they form an exquisite color ensemble in
combination. The (bot.) Rosa 'Mme Isaac Pereire' inspires with its abundance of flowers and strong,
vigorous growth. It is hardy and good climber.

Rosa 'Mme Isaac Pereire' grows vigorously and develops strong shoots. Freestanding, it reaches a height
of 200 to 250 centimeters and a width of 90 to 160 centimeters. With a climbing aid, it grows up to 600
centimeters high. In June, its delicate buds unfold into magnificent, large flowers. They are densely filled
and enchant with their flaming crimson and purple. The historical rose 'Mme Isaac Pereire' is densely
covered with flowers until July. After the main flowering period, isolated flowers appear continuously until
frost. With their strong, wonderful scent, they bewitch the senses and immerse the garden in a romantic
atmosphere. The attractive oval leaves are pinnate and adorned with a serrated edge.

Thanks to its distinctive appearance, Rosa 'Mme Isaac Pereire' is a feast for the eyes as a solitary
plant. Planted in groups, they transform the garden into a romantic fairytale kingdom. It harmonises
wonderfully with white, pink and red flowering rose varieties. In the company of blue larkspur, white lily
and yellow yarrow, it creates a graceful play of colors on the bed. It forms partnerships of classic
elegance with lavender and sage. The historic rose 'Mme Isaac Pereire' climbs up trellises and walls. In
its luminous splendor, it looks perfect on white walls or house walls. In combination with clematis in
different colors, it sets attractive accents. Rosa 'Mme Isaac Pereire' enchants living spaces in the vase
with its exquisite flowers and delicious fragrance. The Historical Rose' Mme Isaac Pereire' thrives in sun
and partial shade. She loves a humus-rich, deep soil. Gardening experts advise regularly removing faded
flowers or flower clusters during the flowering period to encourage the formation of new buds. Cut back in
late winter or early spring. Rosa 'Mme Isaac Pereire' is a bred by Garcon in 1881.

Shrub roses that bloom more often are cut in the spring before they sprout but after the last
severe frost so that a loose, airy growth habit is created. In the case of older shrub roses,
one to three of the stronger, older shoots are cut out from below in order to stimulate fresh
shoots or to thin out the bush.

2. Rose Orange Dawn

The climbing rose 'Orange Dawn' ® (Rosa) is a free-flowering rose that plays a special role in the
garden. The numerous semi-double flowers are salmon-orange and appear from June to
October. Its wonderful scent unfolds particularly on sunny, warm days. 

Flowers The salmon-orange, cup-shaped flowers

are semi-double and appear from June to October. These are about 8 - 9 cm tall and are slightly
fragrant
Always cut dried flowers down to the nearest fully formed leaf. This encourages the
formation of new flower buds.

3. Red Flame

blossom

Rosa 'Red Flame'® produces red, cupped flowers that are pleasantly fragrant
from June to September. The individual strongly filled flowers are about 9 cm to
11 cm tall.

tasks

 Fertilize: From March to September

 Planting: From March to October.
 Care
  - Plant parts infected with powdery mildew must be cut off, otherwise the
disease can spread further. Then treat your rose with approved mildew
agents to prevent reinfection.
- In the event of an infestation with blackspot, remove all diseased leaves
(black spots) and treat your roses with suitable fungicides according to the
manufacturer's instructions.
- Always cut wilted flowers down to the nearest fully formed leaf. This
encourages the formation of new flower buds.

4. vanilla kletterrose:

blossom

The creamy white, cupped flowers are very double and appear from June to
October. These are about 6 - 8 cm tall and are slightly fragrant.
  Always cut wilted flowers down to the nearest fully formed leaf. This
encourages the formation of new flower buds.

tasks

 Fertilize: From March to September.

5. Climbing rose 'Dukat'

The climbing rose 'Dukat' ® is a particularly charming variety. With its bright, dark yellow flowers,
it delights both sun worshipers and rose lovers. The semi-double, umbel-shaped flowers grow up
to 10 cm in size and have a long flowering period from June to October. They exude a wonderfully
sweet and fruity scent. The dark green, 5-pinnate, ovate leaves form a beautiful contrast in color
and fall to the ground before winter. The 'Dukat' ® rose grows upright and bushy at a height of up
to 3 m. The 'Dukat' ® climbing rose requires climbing aids such as pergolas, rose arches and
espaliers.
The climbing rose 'Dukat' ® feels most comfortable in the sun. Even in winter it is remarkably robust and
hardy. The only requirement for the soil is that it is deep, fresh to moist and rich in nutrients. The Rosa
'Dukat' ® is extremely robust and easy to care for. It thanks generous prunings with numerous new shoots
from the base. It is an important food source for bees and other insects during the flowering
period. Butterflies also enjoy the climbing rose 'Dukat' ®. On an area of one square meter there is enough
space for 2 to 3 specimens to develop beautifully in a group.
blossom
flowering frequency blooming more often

blossom half filled

flower color strong yellow

flower size medium (5-10cm)

heyday June - October

6. Climbing Rose Nahglut

 frost hardy
 Climbing rose, velvety dark red, very double, large flowers, flowers often, 250-300cm
 Location sunny
 blooms from June to October
 robust, hardy
 resistant to leaf diseases
 Climbing rose for obelisks, arbors and house walls

The climbing rose Naheglut, (bot. Rosa Naheglut), also called Thats Jazz for the music lover, gets its name from its
deep red to dark red flower color. This modern climbing rose (launched on the market in 1999) is a fragrant climbing
rose that blooms frequently and reaches a height of up to 3.00 m. Its flowers are very full, subtly scented and are a
special, almost dramatic feast for the eyes from June to October. The thick, somewhat sparse, upright shoots of this
group, also known as “climbers”, are characteristic of climbing roses in general. The flowers stand alone or in clusters
and are suitable for obelisks, arbors and house walls. The climbing rose Naheglut grows upright and well branched
with dark green, glossy and very healthy foliage.
Flowering June-Okt.

blossom
double flowering

flower color
velvety dark red

Blooming frequently
check

flower shape
cupped

flower diameter
4 - 10 cm

Growth habit that hangs like a train

check

train length
1-4 m, climbing roses

fruit decoration
check

fruit color
red, orange, black

taste, edibility
edible, sweet
Interesting fruit shapes
rose hip

Long-lasting fruits
Check

I bought this rose about 4 years ago because of its

beautiful flowers. Unfortunately, it is quite sensitive to
frost and therefore almost always frozen back to the
ground in recent winters. So needs a very good winter
protection. Otherwise beautiful dark red even flowers.
With all these good qualities, however, it must also be mentioned that the climbing rose Naheglut® is
a capricious beauty. Extensive summer cut is resented by her. Due to the susceptibility of the
foliage to disease and the somewhat lower winter hardiness, you should give it special care
in order to really enjoy it.

Why do you have to prune climbing roses?

Of course, when it comes to climbing roses, you think of the fact
that they should climb pretty high. A densely overgrown rose trellis,
a sea of blossoms on the rose arch - who doesn't get excited about
that? Therefore, climbing roses require appropriate care. Climbing
roses require different care than rose bushes. And pruning the roses
is nothing more than caring for the plants. That's why you don't need
to worry about using the pruning shears: roses need to be cut back
so that they stay healthy and sprout vigorously.Because then they
put all their energy into the new shoots and not into stretching the
old branches. They just got longer and thinner. Yes, the plant also
grows as a result, but not evenly - and the flowers are rare. In
addition, the flowers become weak and vulnerable to pests. You
definitely want to avoid that.
When do I prune the climbing roses?
"How must it feel to the thornbush when Lenze's breath stirs and
suddenly, instead of mere thorns, it bears rough, fragrant
roses." (Ferdinande Freiin von Brackel, German writer) Spring is the best
time to prune climbing roses. However, you have to be careful
about the type of roses :Climbing roses that bloom once (a year) are
cut back immediately after flowering in summer; Prune roses that
bloom several times in spring. This is the ideal time to see how your
roses have survived the winter. You can see exactly which shoots
are poorly developed and which rose eyes are likely to grow new
life. Keep in mind that cold nights can occur in autumn and frost may
damage the plant. In addition, not all vital eyes can always be seen
on the rose branch in autumn.
What is a rose eye?
Quite often you will hear this term in relation to the cutting of
roses. But what does that mean? Maybe you have fulfilled your wish
for climbing roses for the first time and don't know your way around
yet? Therefore, here is a brief explanation: Look carefully at the
stalk. You will find distinctive spots that look like a small mouth with
a tongue or an eye. At this point, the rose can form new
shoots. Therefore, you should always remove the shoots above the
eye so that your plant can continue to branch out. The best are eyes
that point outwards. This is also logical because they form instincts
to the outside.
In 4 steps to the perfect rose dream

The most important thing first: As an experienced garden owner, you

probably know this, but we would like to remind you again. The
tool must be sharp and clean. After the winter, the hedge trimmers -
even better a special rose scissors - may have rusted. Better check
again! Working in the garden with blunt implements will injure the
plants more, which can weaken them.

And if you cut diseased shoots, be sure to clean or disinfect the

scissors and the like afterwards, so as not to transfer germs to
healthy plants! Always cut at a slight angle away from the eye so as
not to allow too much rainwater to enter the cut. In steps 1 to 3 we
explain how to thin out the plant. The final step is the actual
pruning. These instructions apply to the multi-blooming roses.
1. Remove laterally growing branches
There are branches that step out of line – they grow inwards or
scrawl across. Out with it! Cut these off directly on the ground so
that they no longer sprout.
2. Remove weak branches
Compare the branches of your climbing roses with each other:
particularly weak, thin stems must also give way. These narrow twigs
will only develop further faint branches and flowers. Your flowers
need the energy better for the strong, lush bearing branches.
3. Remove dead branches
Transgression is also part of life. Even with roses. That's why you
always find dead or very puny stems every spring. They are
brownish, no longer sprout or are even infested with moss. Here,
too, thin out the branches with the pruning shears. Dead branches
are targets for pests or diseases, so be sure to remove them.
4. Careful pruning of the climbing roses
Your rose is now ready for pruning, which is done more sparingly on
the climbing specimens than on the upright roses. Only shoots that
are too thin are shortened to stimulate flower growth. Well-
developed shoots are bent sideways, for example, on the arch,
because many climbing roses love the horizontal. That's the best
way for them to bloom.

For rose arches or trellis: When do you have to start the cut?
Your climbing rose is allowed to stretch a little first. Whether it's on
a trellis made of wood or metal, a galvanized rose arch or a wooden
trellis. That looks particularly romantic and a bit wild. But at the
latest when the tendrils have reached about 2 meters, it's time to
educate them... namely in terms of shape.

Begin by tying the shoots horizontally. This slows them down in

length growth and they form many flowers on the side. Exactly what
you want for climbing roses. If you let your rose bush grow
unhindered for too long, it will bare the lower branches with
age. This looks ugly, especially with a rose arch. A good tip for
creating as many flowers as possible: Carefully fan out the shoots so
that there is not just one main strand with little pile. Maybe you have
a small pillar on the house or terrace that you want to entwine
around? This works very well with climbing roses and it draws a
fairytale touch of Sleeping Beauty into your home.
Can I also cut roses in autumn and summer?
It depends on the rose variety. As mentioned, a distinction is made
between roses that bloom once and roses that sprout more
often. Rambler roses are the most popular once they have flowered.
They are particularly strong climbers and therefore have something
romantic about them. You may know this from English
cottages. Popular varieties include Violet Blue, Bobby James, and
Albertine. If you prefer the roses that bloom more often, then we
can recommend the Compassion, Naheglut and Golden Gate
varieties to you as a gardener. The latter are cut back in spring as
described above. In summer you can remove the withered heads
above the first leaf and dead branches immediately after
flowering. That stimulates the royal flowersto develop flowers again
and, for example, to decorate the pergola in rich colors. Climbing
roses that have bloomed once can be shortened immediately after
they have faded in summer or in early autumn. If you were to do this
in the spring, you would take the energy from the main shoots.
Rambler roses and climbing roses - the difference
Both love to tangle and stretch up. However, the flowers of climbing
roses are often larger. On the other hand, the shoots of the Rambler
bend more easily and it enchants with its delicate, airy flowers. In
addition, this plant develops very pretty rose hips. Rambler roses
grow up to 6 meters high. This makes them ideal, for example, to
playfully shimmy along the garden shed or to grow into trees. If you
want a classic rose arch made of metal to beautify your garden, we
recommend the climbing roses that bloom multiple times and
vigorously.
Conclusion on cutting climbing roses
Spring, when the last frosts are over and nature comes alive, is also
the time to take care of the climbing roses. Pay attention to the
variety in your garden: roses that bloom more often can now be
cut; once flowering roses are cut immediately after flowering. Work
with sharp tools that are easy to hold and trust the queen of
flowers. Nothing can go wrong with our 4 steps to spring pruning of
climbing roses. Of course, we are happy to answer any questions you
may have and also advise you on the selection of the right roses for
your feel-good garden.
https://www.mencke.de/blog/wie-sie-kletterrosen-richtig-schneiden-4-schritte-zum-erfolg

Pruning climbing roses: when and how to cut

back?

Katie

Climbing roses only stay in the desired shape if they are cut regularly. So that you don't
cut your climbing roses, we'll tell you when it's the right time to cut climbing roses and
what the right cut looks like.
Do you have to cut climbing roses?

Do you have to cut climbing roses? The answer to this question is quite clear:
it depends. A climbing rose will survive without a pruning and will
bloom. However, the flowering will be much smaller and weaken more and
more over the years. In addition, many varieties of climbing roses gradually
become extremely large without a pruning, can no longer be fixed to
scaffolding and can quickly become annoying with their prickly
shoots. Climbing roses are therefore pruned so that they flower beautifully and
because they need to be tamed a little in our gardens so as not to become a
thorny undergrowth.

Cutting climbing roses: the right time

The right time depends on the reason for the pruning:

cut time reason

plant cutting spring Stimulating Branching

Thinning and care cut spring or autumn Maintaining health, stimulating flowering and the fo

Removal of wild shoots all year round Wild shoots hinder the growth of the noble variety

taper cut Spring or After Bloom (Rambler Reducing the size of the rose, revitalizing old roses w
Roses) bloom

Pruning climbing roses: the basics

So that the pruning of your climbing rose is really successful, we have

prepared a small guide for you in advance. Always use clean and sharp
pruning shears to avoid bruising at the cutting point. For very old roses,
pruning shears or a pruning saw can also be used. Start about five millimeters
above an outward-facing bud. Do not leave a large butt and make the cut at a
slight angle. If necessary, attach free shoots to the climbing aid after cutting.

Summary - Pruning Climbing Roses: Basics

 Using a sharp and clean rose scissors, pruning shears or pruning saw
  Make the cut at an angle and about 5 mm above an outward-facing bud
 Don't leave stubs
 Fastening the remaining shoots to the climbing aid

Pruning climbing roses properly in spring, summer and fall

Regardless of whether you want to cut young climbing roses or rejuvenate old
climbing roses, the time and type of pruning are always aimed at a vital plant
and a strong blossom base.

Prune climbing roses in spring

Spring is the peak season for pruning roses. Plant pruning as well as thinning
and maintenance pruning are carried out in the spring.

Instructions: Prune climbing roses after planting

Do you plant a rose in spring or did you already have a new, beautiful resident
in your garden in autumn? It doesn't matter when you plant, the corresponding
pruning is only carried out in the spring. To do this, proceed as follows:

1. Remove dead or diseased wood at the base or transition to healthy

wood
2. Remove comparatively thin shoots
3. Shoots should not be too close together, crossing or even rubbing
against each other. Remove excess shoots
4. If necessary, remove wild shoots that grow up from the base of the rose
5. Shorten all shoot tips by 10 cm to encourage further branching

Tip: Do not prune your roses when many frosty days and nights are
expected. If you have forsythia in the garden, you can use the start of
flowering as a guide. Because the flowering of the forsythia marks the first
spring in the phenological calendar and thus indicates that warmer days are
likely to follow.

Pruning instructions: Cut back climbing roses in spring

Knowing your rose’s flowering behavior is crucial for annual maintenance

pruning. Depending on how this is ordered, you will find different tips for the
correct pruning of your climbing roses in the instructions below.

Is it a rose that blooms once or more often?

  Climbing roses that have bloomed once show their colorful blooms in
spring - after that they don't bloom again for the whole year. Most
rambler roses bloom once
 Climbing roses that bloom more often, on the other hand, have a first
wave of flowers in spring and a second in summer

The annual pruning promotes rich flowering, multiple branching and ensures
that the rose remains vigorous and vital instead of becoming old, senile and
lazy to bloom.

When pruning climbing roses in spring, proceed as follows:

 Remove dead, frostbitten or diseased wood at the base or transition to

healthy wood
 Remove comparatively thin shoots
 Shoots should not be too close together, crossing or even rubbing
against each other. Remove excess shoots
 If necessary, remove wild shoots that grow up from the base of the rose
 With climbing roses that have bloomed once , older, lazy shoots can be
removed in spring at the base or just above the emergence of a younger
shoot
 In the case of climbing roses that bloom more often , all side shoots are
shortened to 3 to 5 buds (about 15 cm) in spring after the first wave of
flowers. In the case of climbing roses that bloom more often, older, lazy
shoots can also be removed in spring at the base or just above the
emergence of a younger shoot

The maintenance cut in the spring ensures a rich flowering [Photo: margaret.wiktor/ Shutterstock.com]

Tip: Strong leaders of the climbing rose can remain on the rose for three to
four years. After that, their flowering usually slows down and they should be
removed in favor of younger, new leaders.

Prune climbing roses in summer

Only in the case of climbing roses that bloom more often are the faded side
shoots removed again and again throughout the blooming season. In this way,
the plant diligently produces new flowers as it aims to produce seeds for
propagation.
Climbing roses that have bloomed once, on the other hand, are not cut in
summer.
If you want to keep beautiful red rosehips for decoration and bird feed in
winter, do not cut off the last blossoms of the roses.

Tip: When cutting faded climbing roses, not only the flower including the
flower stalk is removed, but the entire small shoot with all the flowers
attached. The rest of the side shoot would die off later anyway and could
serve as an entry point for fungal diseases if left on the plant.

Prune climbing roses in the fall

Climbing roses can also be pruned in the fall. However, this is only

recommended if the rose is in a sheltered place and mild winters are common
in the region. Good winter protection in the form of fir branches or bast mats
also makes autumn pruning possible. Fall pruning is done in the same way as
spring pruning, but just to be on the safe side, it should be a little less radical.

Pruning Climbing Roses: Peculiarities of Rambler Roses

Rambler roses are called "Schlingrosen" in German and have special

properties. Their shoots are less stiff and firm. They grow less sparsely and
branched, but rather in long rods in the air or creeping on the ground. Almost
all ramblers flower only once a year, but there are big differences when it
comes to timing. Any time from spring to late summer is possible, depending
on the variety. Ramblers are always pruned after they have completely faded,
which can be in spring, summer or autumn depending on the variety.

Instructions: Cut the rambler rose

 Remove dead or diseased wood at the base or transition to healthy

wood
 Remove comparatively thin shoots
 Shoots should not be too close together, crossing or even rubbing
against each other. Remove excess shoots
 Remove older, lazy shoots at the base or just above where a younger
shoot emerges
 Shorten all faded side shoots to 2 to 3 buds

Summary: Proper pruning of climbing roses

 Climbing roses are thinned out when they are planted by removing
dead, diseased and narrow wood. All shoots are shortened by 10 cm
  In spring or autumn, the clearing and maintenance cut are made. Old
and diseased shoots in particular are removed or shortened. A radical
rejuvenation cut is also possible. In the case of climbing roses that
bloom more often, the faded side shoots are shortened to 3 to 5 buds
after the first wave of flowering
 In summer, only the faded side shoots are removed from climbing roses
that bloom more often
 With rambler roses, after flowering, all side shoots that have faded are
shortened to 2 to 3 buds
 The removal of wild shoots is possible and important all year round

Pruning old climbing roses: rejuvenation pruning

Older roses tend to flower less and grow slowly with thin shoots. In addition to
the right rose fertilization , a rejuvenation cut of the old climbing rose can
help here.

 All climbing roses can be pruned for rejuvenation in spring if

necessary. All shoots are removed except for the youngest ones close
to the ground. If no young shoots have grown, all shoots are shortened
by half in a year. In the following year, young shoots should have
emerged and the old ones can be completely removed
 A radical pruning is also possible with rambler roses that have become
too large. For this purpose, almost all shoots are removed close to the
ground after flowering. Only the young rods from the current year
remain

Tip: Regular pruning is essential, especially when it comes to cutting climbing

roses on the rose arch. Too old and thick shoots are no longer flexible and
can hardly be removed from the framework, but almost no longer
bloom. Therefore, make sure to always remove old shoots and guide new
rods into the rose arch.

Rule of thumb for the climbing rose cut

Climbing roses that have bloomed once can also be cut once a year ,

namely in spring in March or April.
Climbing roses that bloom several times, on the other hand, cut several
times: in spring and again after the second bloom in autumn.

Prune climbing roses that bloom several times

Climbing roses that bloom several times are also called climbers. They reach
a height of up to 3.5 meters and bloom from May to late June and again
between August and November.

However, the two flowering peaks mean a lot of effort for the plant. The rose
compensates for this by forming a basic structure of very short and firm
shoots , from which softer side shoots develop, which also form the flowers.

 When pruning climbing roses for roses that bloom several times, simply
cut back the weaker side shoots down to the basic structure in
spring .
 You can also support the climbing rose by attaching the sturdier shoots
to a trellis that the flowering shoots can "hold onto".
 The climber roses are also an attractive privacy screen solution.

Pruning climbing roses in spring

 March and April, around the time the forsythia blooms, is the best time
to cut climbing roses in spring.
 Shorten the young side shoots to 3 to 5 eyes towards the trunk .
 With older climbing roses, the plant may bare towards the ground.
 You can also cut back these older, bare shoots - this allows light and air
into the basic structure of the rose.

Summer pruning for climbing roses

Summer pruning stimulates the rose to produce more flowers. To do this, cut
back the faded rose petals just below the first fully developed leaf. So the rose
does not form seeds, but more flowers.

Remove faded roses to encourage the plant to produce more flowers. ©

ttl6781 - stock.adobe.com

 After the first flowering, you can cut back the faded young shoots by
about two thirds of the shoot length to a viable eye around June .
 The interface should be about the diameter of a wooden pencil.
  Do not shorten shoots in the lower third of the rose, but tie them to the
trellis so that the rose looks full from below.

One-flowering and multiple-flowering varieties

Pruning climbing roses becomes a horticultural success story if you know the flowering
characteristics specific to the variety. Varieties that bloom once - called ramblers -
undergo a different pruning than varieties that bloom more often - so-called climbers. 

Types of cuts and dates

The rule of thumb for pruning climbing roses is: Cut once-blooming varieties once a
year - cut more-blooming varieties twice a year. The following table provides an
overview of the most important types of cuts with information on the best time in each
case:
Types of cuts/appointments Repeat flowering (Climber)

plant cutting on the day of planting and the following spring

maintenance cut (main cut) in spring (March/April)

care cut in summer (end of June/beginning of July)

taper cut stages in February

 Climbing roses that bloom more often - instructions for
maintenance pruning
When the forsythias bloom in spring, the time window for
pruning opens . Climbing roses that flower more often form a stable framework and
grow more slowly than ramblers. These properties simplify cutting care. The primary
goal is to encourage numerous side branches. Perennial side shoots bloom from the
end of May and pass the floral baton on to this year's side branches in August, which
bloom until the first frost. With this cut you do it right:
 Detach as many shoots as possible from the trellis and lay them on the ground on the
side
 Cut back all side shoots on trellis shoots to 3 to 5 eyes
 Make an incision 5 to 10 mm from one eye
 Careful: do not cut back promising long shoots from the previous year
 From the 5th year: Thin out one or two older skeletal shoots as a continuous
rejuvenation measure

The image below illustrates what a climbing rose should look like before and after
spring pruning. You have done everything right if the skeleton drives are
reminiscent of a "chicken ladder". The tiered structure supports the growth of side
blossom wood and simplifies formation on the trellis.
The sketch illustrates how you should cut back the shoots of the second and third
order except for two or three eyes, so that the shoots can be formed airy and
decoratively on the trellis after the spring cut.

BACKGROUND
Tie rose tendrils horizontally
Vertical rose tendrils become bare below. Sprouting and flowering only take place at the upper
end, because the growth law of peak support governs here. As soon as you tie a tendril
horizontally, growth calms down. Now your climbing rose has time and leisure to create
numerous leaf and flower buds, distributed over the entire length of the shoot. Tie young rose
shoots horizontally to the bottom of the trellis . Older shoots at the top direct you to
 a sloping position . This optimizes the flowering splendor and ensures an even formation on
the trellis.

Climbers that flower more often - instructions for care cuts

After the first flowering run, the momentum kicks into another rose festival as you
groom out your climbers. The summer pruning of climbing roses is very simple and
still achieves a maximum of flowering until the first frost. This is how you correctly
cut climbing roses that bloom repeatedly at the end of June/beginning of July:

 Carefully inspect climbing roses for nesting birds so that you do not cut them or cut
them later
 Sharpen and clean pruning shears, wear thorn-resistant gloves with gauntlets and
safety goggles
 Hold the faded tendril in one hand and bend it slightly
 Apply scissors a short distance above the first complete leaflet
Tie this year's growth diagonally to horizontally on the trellis. As spreading
climbers, climbing roses do not have attachment organs or the ability to
independently wind themselves around a strut. Please use soft, stretchable tying
material that will not cut into the bark and can be easily opened for pruning
measures.
DIGRESSION
Test cut gives security
Some of the prettiest climbers react indignantly to the thinning out of old ground shoots. If you
are subjecting a frequently flowering climbing rose to continuous rejuvenation for the first time,
you should carry out a trial pruning. For the test run, cut off a maximum of one third of the aged
branches at ground level. If the climber drives out again willingly, remove the remaining old
branches next spring. If not, your climbing rose is one of the sensitive varieties. Plant a ground
cover rose or small shrub rose to cover the bare foot. In spring , tulips cover up the aesthetic
shortcoming with their picturesque blossoms.

Rejuvenate climbers in stages

Older climbing roses age at the tips of the shoots and bare from the base. Instead
of discarding a formerly magnificent climber rose, it is worth experimenting with a
 step- by- step rejuvenation. Spreading the measure over 3 years has proven to be a
good practice in gardening. This is how the plan works:
 The best time for each stage is in February when the weather is frost-free and dry
 Saw off a third of the dead or bare scaffolding shoots at ground level
 On the remaining skeletal shoots, massively branching tips are transferred to a side
shoot further down
 Then cut back the young side shoot to 2 to 3 buds
The already rejuvenated areas undergo a maintenance cut in the spring and a care
cut in the summer. During the rejuvenation, please pay particular attention to an
adequate water and nutrient supply. With an organic complete fertilizer , such as
Oscorna Animalin, you can stimulate growth. Apply the fertilizer from April and
water generously.
BACKGROUND
Derivation - fundamental cutting technique
In the pruning care of trees , shrubs and roses, the derivation pruning plays a key role. The secret
of the fundamental pruning technique lies in the fact that disused branches are strategically
redirected to a promising side shoot. On an overgrown scaffold shoot of your climbing rose, look
for a conveniently positioned side branch in the lower area. At the fork of old and young, cut off
the branched broomstick.

frequently asked Questions

My repeat flowering climbing roses are 2 years old and have bloomed
magnificently this year. Should I prune the climbers in the fall now or
wait until spring?
Climbing roses that bloom frequently can be cut throughout the season. The best
time for the main cut is in the spring when the forsythia are in bloom. Regularly
cleaning out wilted blossoms will lure out fresh rose petals. In wind-exposed
locations, it makes sense to prune in autumn so that you can get the roses close to
the climbing aid. This reduces the risk of wind damage to a minimum.

https://www.gartenjournal.net/kletterrosen-schneiden
GartenFlora

Rosen schneiden im Frühjahr: Einfache Schnittregeln | GartenFlora

There is no doubt: when the forsythia bloom, the roses are over their
hibernation - and that of all gardeners as well. That's a good thing, because the
spring pruning of roses is due in the bed, which ensures flowering and healthy
shrubs. You should pay attention to which group of varieties you have in front
of you. For example, you cut roses that bloom more often than roses that
bloom once – and there are also special rules for climbing roses.
Rose cutting: The preparations
Before you cut your roses, first remove the winter protection - coniferous twigs or similar
coverings of climbing and shrub roses can now be removed for good. In the case of
standard roses, it is advisable to keep the protective hoods or fleece with which the
crowns were wrapped close at hand. If frost falls below about -5 °C, it is advisable to
protect the grafting area from late freezing.

Hill and fertilize

The earth heaped up in autumn, which was used to protect bed and hybrid tea roses
from severe frost, is now removed. It is best to work them into the soil around the
plants. In this step you can also fertilize, for example with a commercially available rose
fertilizer or mature compost to which some horn meal has been added.
When should you prune roses?

Sprouting rose after pruning. Photo:

iStock_LianeM

In early spring, the shrubs will show exactly how they are structured and where you
should put the scissors. In addition, they soon sprout. A timely cut prepares the way for
the young, flowering shoots.

It is best to use the so-called phenological seasons as a guide. They are classified

according to the state of nature and are easy to identify just by looking around at what is
already blooming in gardens and parks.

Rose care starts in the so-called first spring, and this is announced by the striking full
bloom of the forsythia, but also by the unfolding of the leaves of gooseberries and
currants. Depending on the weather and the area, the first spring falls in March or April
and is followed by "full spring" with lilac and apple blossoms.

Incidentally, when cutting the roses, it doesn't do any harm if the eyes have already
sprouted more or less far. Roses initially draw on their supplies and do not lose too
much of their energy due to the loss of shoots until around mid/end of April. Even a
relatively late pruning - done professionally and not too squeamishly - is much better
than just letting the shrubs grow! As a general rule, only prune on mild, dry days.

Did everything go well in winter?

If the buds (“eyes”) swell and start to stretch, you can be sure that they are not frost
damaged. If nothing is stirring yet, there is no reason to worry: some varieties do not
sprout until late. If you want to be sure, cut off a piece of the shoot. If the pith is fresh at
the cut point and shows a green ring towards the rind, all is well.
Dry, grey-brown wood, on the other hand, has died. In this case, cut back more and do
not give up your rose immediately. Eyes that are protected deep in the ground
sometimes sprout in May. The plant is only lost if nothing happens at the beginning of
June.

Rules of thumb for editing

The ideal position and inclination when

pruning roses. Illustration: © GartenFlora/Klaus-Dieter Röding

 Completely remove shoots that are thinner than a pencil (exception: varieties that
naturally have very fine shoots, such as ground cover roses or the historical fragrant
rose 'Rose de Resht').
 If two shoots cross or are close together, remove the older or thinner of the two
completely.
 Always cut at a slight angle over a sprouting eye so that rainwater can drain off well and
deadwood is avoided.
 Never cut too high above the eye! A remaining shoot remnant without a bud dies. Use
the thickness of the shoot as a guide: The correct cutting position is at a height that is
slightly less than the diameter of the stem.
 Dead shoot ends are removed by cutting down to the green wood.
  Always cut to an eye that protrudes from the plant (this is not absolutely necessary for
ground cover roses and bed roses).
 Always use sharp rose scissors to get a clean cut that doesn't crush the cells!

Thin out or cut back?

There are two pruning groups for roses: Whether a strong pruning is recommended or
whether it is only thinned out depends on whether the shrub produces flowers several
times a year or blooms once. Roses that bloom once develop their flowers primarily on
older wood, those that bloom more often on this year's wood.

Pruning climbing roses

Climbing roses paint wildly romantic garden pictures with their flower garlands, which
lay lavishly over pavilions, walls, fences and archways. The wildness is in the blood of
the rainy climbers. You can steer the romantic abundance of flowers – with the right
cutting and tying.

There are two groups of climbing roses:

 Climbers have quite stiff shoots with large flowers and are usually blooming,
 which they often use to grow through old fruit trees.
The side shoots of a climbing rose that blooms frequently are shortened. Photo: ©
GartenFlora/Achim Werner
How do you prune climbing roses that bloom repeatedly?
The climbers put a lot of energy into their flowers and at the same time form a stable
framework with their strong shoots. Basically, they flower on this year's wood as well as
on annual and perennial wood - but most flowers are to be expected on the young side
shoots.

It is best to cut back part of the existing skeleton branches at different height levels -
each up to a branch with a young, strong side shoot. This counteracts the bushes
becoming bare from below and somewhat controls their urge to grow upwards. Then
shorten all side shoots on the remaining branches to short pegs. One-year-old long
shoots from the base of the shrub should not be cut at all, only tied - they will become
the new branches.

1. Pruning of spurs  The one-year-old side shoots that formed last year have flowered
profusely on the horizontal main shoots. Now they are shortened to tenons with about
three eyes - for another lush pile. 
2. Rejuvenate  In order for the rose to remain vital and for new long shoots to keep
growing from the base of the bush, cut back one or two of the oldest branches every
year, right down to the base.

If no young shoots have grown out of the ground for a long time, a rejuvenation cut will
help . To do this, make a radical pruning back to a few eyes above the base, in this way
you can force a new structure on an old shrub. Use strong pruning shears for this.

Prune once flowering climbers

Since these mainly bloom on last year's shoots, it is advisable to only trim them with
scissors after they have bloomed. In summer, shorten the side branches by about half.

Tie up climbing roses after cutting

Climbing roses have a strong upward trend. They form long shoots that, depending on
the variety, reach several meters almost vertically. If you let them grow, they only
branch at the tips and form flowers only there. All the splendor then takes place far
above our eyes and noses, and underneath it remains colorless and bare. Too bad!

If, on the other hand, the long shoots are attached to a trellis in a fan shape or even
pulled horizontally, this slows down their eagerness to grow. Instead, eyes sprout over
the entire length, from which short side shoots develop, each of which ends in
flowers. The result: plenty of roses at a taster height!

CLIMBING ROSES:
Old, thick shoots can remain on the plant as long as they are still flowering well. If the
flowering power decreases, cut out the old shoots in favor of younger ones. Shorten
side shoots to three to five eyes - this is where the young flowering shoots develop.
 General rules for pruning roses
Removing all dead and damaged shoots is the be-all and end-all if the pruning
of roses is to be successful. Do not cut into the strong shoots too much, as this
will spread the rose's strength over many buds and also result in numerous
new shoots. You should cut back weaker shoots strongly - the plant does not
have to use any force for them and few, strong shoots develop. Flower
formation depends on the rose class and takes place on either one-year-old or
two-year-old wood. If you want lots of buds, try to get as much second- and
third-order branching as possible with your pruning.
Climbing roses that flower frequently
Bothclimbing rosesremove any shoots that are not growing in the right direction. With a spur
pruning - pruning on three to five eyes - you work on all branches of the second or higher order
along the main shoots. A balanced relationship between old and young wood (one to two years
old) is ideal: If a strong long shoot has developed from the base in the last year, remove an old
shoot from the base.
 

A balanced ratio of young and old wood is ideal.

Photo: MSG/Claudia Schick
Once blooming climbing roses
Again, any diseased or broken shoots are removed as close to the base as possible. If the
climbing rose has enough shoots of the first order, then from the third year take a shoot of the
first order. Two to three-year-old shoots that already bore flowers the previous year should be cut
back to three buds. With climber roses, it is important that you leave the long shoots intact. The
original growth form could otherwise break through.
 1. Correct: The incision is made 5 mm above one eye and slightly at an
angle. The wound heals quickly.

The more horizontally the shoots are distributed on the trellis , the more
flowers will appear.!!!! Deci ramurile trebuie orizontal asezate!!!

 Side branches that were full of flowers in summer are cut back to two
buds.
 Every three years you remove an old shoot close to the ground. 
 Then the climbing rose is arranged horizontally on the trellis.
 A summer cut from faded flowers will bring new flowers after six weeks.