International Journal of Recent Advances in Multidisciplinary Topics 11

Volume 2, Issue 5, May 2021

https://www.ijramt.com | ISSN (Online): 2582-7839

Natural Dye from Plants, Barks, Fruits and

Leaves
V. Thanabal1, M. Gopalakrishnan2*, S. Sasvanth3, S. Nihal Shariff4,
Samala Murali Venkata Sai Krishna5
1,2,3,4,5
Department of Textile Technology, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Erode, India

Abstract: Generally, the natural dyes are obtained from natural planned to produce the fully natural and eco-friendly fabric. So,
sources without any chemical processing. Every plant can be used we used banana sap as a natural mordant for fabric dyeing
to make a dye. The most common plant parts are used for dye process. Banana sap is not only used as mordant but also
preparation by the way of extracting method, accordingly Stem,
Bark, Roots, Flowers, Leaves are used it. Now a days the natural improves all qualities of dyeing operation. It is cost effective as
dyes are in demand not only in textile industry, even also demand compared to chemical mordents and eco- friendly product [1]–
in pharmaceutical industry, food industry etc., In spite of, there [4].
was a demand for natural sources that would be used for medical
purpose and its bio-degradable nature. So that the natural sources 2. Barks
are eco-friendly. The natural dyes are non-toxic to human and also
free from carcinogenic components. The natural dyes are used as Natural dyes are extracted from waste barks of Turkish red
Anti-oxidant, Anti-microbial, Anti-fungal properties. Normally pine (Pinus brutia ten). The extracted dyestuff was applied to
the natural dyes have poor color fastness, so we used to mordant cotton, silk, wool, tencel, flax, polyamide, and acrylic fibre. The
as dye fixing agent for good color fastness. dyestuff powder was extracted from red pine bark by using the
dye extraction machine. The machine operation contains
Keywords: Dye, bark, Colour fastness, Cotton, Plants, Natural, milling, spiral conveyor, extraction unit & solvent tank, solvent
leaves and flowers. removing and recycling unit & spray drying. This extraction
method was carried out step by step. The barks are vacuum
1. Introduction dried before launching the extractor and vacuum plant fluid was
Natural dyes are obtained from animal, vegetable, leaves, applied to instead of fresh water for further processing. After
bark. Because natural dyes are less toxic and allergenic than that completing the milling and spiral conveyor operation. In
synthetic dyes and bio-degradable. Now a days, contributions this extraction unit the bark particles were treated with 78%
of synthetic dyes more than the Natural dyes. Using natural ethanol and 20% stock fluid for recovered the vacuuming
dyes to products becoming important for avoiding the skin process. The extracted dye powder was transfer into the solvent
related issue. Textile chemical processing industry is one of the removing and recycling unit for removing ethanol from dye
most environmental polluters. If process a one ton of textile powder. This dye powder was using the dyeing operation. The
product, one might have use as much as 230-270 tons of water. dye concentration of 10% with m: l ratio of 1:40 at 100C for
There are two ways to control the environmental pollution of 1hr. Conc. 20% of alum and oak ash used as mordant for this
operation by using ATAC LAB DYE HT exhaustion dyeing
textile processing. One is two build a sufficiently and high
machine. After that the dyed fabric tested with wash, rub and
effective effluent treatment plants. Natural dyes have range of
light fastness testing methods. Here the result is the alum
different shades that can be obtained from roots, insects, mordant used dyed fabric has good light and wash fastness. And
minerals, flowers, fruits, bark, and leaf. Instead of using then oak ash used dyed fabric has good rub fastness. When oak
synthetic dyes and also reduce the pollution apart from these ash used in dyeing operation, then it is considered fully eco-
advantages natural dyes have also some drawbacks like friendly method. Natural dye was extracted from Mangrove
availability of dye source (Tree, Vegetables), natural dyestuff bark the extracted dye was applied to a silk fabric by using an
source might be found for a particular season, most natural dyes exhaustion dyeing process. There are four mordants are used
are unable to form strong bonds with fabric without any usage this process they are aluminum potassium sulphate, Ferrous
of mordant materials. The reason for mordant using to increase sulphate, Copper sulphate, and Stannous chloride. After that
the binding nature and dye affinity to fabric and create a dyeing the dyed fabric was investigated the fastness properties
stronger bond in comparison to using any dye. Mordants are by using AATC test methods. Color fastness to light test was
also improving the fastness properties. Mordants are classified carried out by ISO standard. When silk fabric has naturally
as two main groups’ basic and acidic mordants. Metal salts of reddish brown in shade without mordant because mangrove
Iron used as basic mordant and acid mordant like Alum. We barks are rich in tannin. While using mordant to generate a

*Corresponding author: gokin_m@yahoo.co.in

V. Thanabal et al. International Journal of Recent Advances in Multidisciplinary Topics, VOL. 2, NO. 5, MAY 2021 12

variety of pale to dark reddish brown in color shade, the potential dyeing substrate for different textile materials.
mordants are aluminum potassium sulphate and copper Because the 5-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone are present in the
sulphate. The bark was dried in sunlight and then milled to the bark of walnut tree. This the main reason for producing natural
small pieces for dye extraction, in this dyeing process we had colorant on the bark. The method of extraction process of
used distilled water in the ratio of 1:10 and boiled it for one natural dye from the bark of walnut tree and application to the
hour, and then the residue was removed then dye solution is woolen yarn were explained here. The bark was collected and
filtered. There are four different conditions in dyeing process in dry with sun shadow. And it was converted into the powder
used temperature, dyeing time, pH level, and dye concentration. state. The required concentration of bark powder was soaked
By changing the temperature (30oC- 90C) the dyeing with ML ratio of 1:20 over the 12 hours. And then the solution
efficiency is determined. Using the 50% of fabric weight in was heated with temperature of simmering point (91oC-93oC)
liquid ratio is 1:40, pH=5.4, time=60mins. By changing the for 1 hour. Then the heated solution was cooled and filter with
dyeing time interval (10mins-50mins) the dyeing efficiency is clean cotton cloth. The remaining residue was treated again for
determined by liquid ratio is 1:40, pH=5.4, all color substances had been extracted. The extracted solution
time=90mins.similarly the dyeing concentration (20-60) in was used to dyeing the wool yarns. The mordanting of water
changed for determining the dyeing efficiency. From the above and woolen yarn are soaked and heated at simmering point for
experiment we have determined that when there is increase in 30 mins. Now the yarn rinsing done with cold water. Then the
temperature the color strength is also increasing, so temperature yarn was treated with dye solution for 1 hour at simmering
is directly proportional to the color. Maximum color strength point. The washing process is done with 5g/l of Ezee soap
yield at 90oC. Color fastness is good when using this mordants solution and drying with shade in room temperature [8]–[11].
aluminum potassium sulphate, copper sulphate and ferrous The yarn was tested with color fastness like light, rub and wash
sulphate except stannous chloride mordant. Similarly, the wash fastness with Indian ISO standard. The tests are done with the
fastness and perspiration fastness will be good at aluminum samples of un-mordanting samples and pre-mordanting
potassium sulphate, copper sulphate, and stannous chloride. samples. The light fastness AATCC 16 e- 2004 gives the
Except ferrous sulphate mordant [5]–[7]. The natural dye was grading of woolen yarn is very good in pre-mordanting (10%
obtained from eucalyptus camaldulensis bark. This dye was potassium aluminum sulphate), (5% alum) samples, and un-
used to dyeing the cotton fabrics at different condition. mordanting samples also good lightfastness behavior. The same
Eucalyptus bark was yellowish brown color in naturally. In results are given by the wash fastness test which is done by
spite of natural dye have good properties, (S Ali) so, we used Launder-o-meter with ISO standard. The rub fastness on crock
mordant for dye fixing purpose. The dye extraction method meter gives the results are good for pre mordanting and un-
carried out at different condition like different temperature, mordanting samples. Here the conclusion for this study is good
different time interval. The crushed dye powder weighing 20 dyeing affinity and pre-mordanting process leads the good
mg and mixed with 200 ml of distilled water. The dye solution fastness properties. Albizia Lebbeck (Siris tree) it belongs to
beaker to stirring at room temperature for 20, 40, 60, 80 and 100 Albizia family. This family contains more than 150 species.
mins. Similarly, another set of 5 samples treated with 60oC for Siris tree’s native is forest in Asia to eastern Pakistan through
respect time intervals. This process continues for 100oC again. India and Sri Lanka to Myanmar. The phytochemical test result
The sample solutions were soaked for overnight and stirring at shows the presence of tannin, steroid, phenolic compound and
room temperature and boiling temperature. Totally 25 dyeing amino acids etc., the color which produced by the chemical
solutions are used to dyeing process in this process. The 25 components in the bark was light brown color. This extraction
samples of cotton fabric are weighing for 4 mg and then dyeing process contains four type of medium like aqueous, alkaline,
process is done at 60oC with 1:15 m/l ratio for 60 mins by using acidic and alcoholic medium. After selecting correct medium
exhaustion dyeing machines. Here 1.5 mg sodium sulphate used which is alcoholic medium that gives the extracted dye powder
for better exhaustion. After completing the dyeing operation, at 70%, 50%, 30% alcohol ratio. The mordanting agents are
the dyed fabrics were tested with color fastness methods. common salts, alum, ferrous sulphate, lime, acetic acid, banana
Likewise, wash fastness, rub fastness and light fastness are leaf, and ash, copper sulphate used this dyeing process. The
testing at proper manner. The obtained result shows the samples are treated at 80C for 1 hour with ML ratio of 1:30.
minimum color strength at room temperature. At 60C the color The dye concentration of 5% and 10% varies for the sets of
strength slightly varies from room temperature and the samples. After that dyed cotton fabric is tested with the colour
maximum color strength is getting at 100C (boiling temp). fastness. The fastness test is carried over the all mordants. The
Here the conclusion of this process the pre-soaking color test results show the fairly good for change in color of wash
solution gives good color strength to the fabric by increasing fastness and virtually not for staining. Color fastness to rub
stirring time up to 80 minutes. The other case of stirring process gives the result for dry and wet is good for all samples. Light
for 80 mins to promote the decreasing of color strength because fastness test results give grading of 4 for all samples which
the long stirring time causes the presence of impurities. Wash means the fastness is fairly good. Here the conclusion for
fastness and light fastness are good comparatively direct and fastness test is fairly good for light fastness, good for dry and
direct and Sulphur dyes. The rub fastness gives quite well in dry wet rub fastness and fairly good for change in colour and
condition poor at wet condition. Juglans regia L is the botanical virtually not for staining in wash fastness. Terminalia arjuna
name of Walnut tree. It belongs to Juglandaceae family. The (Marutha maram) is the evergreen tree. It can be found in south
walnut tree is valuable tree because the entire parts of the tree Asian regions. This tree’s bark was used for anti-dysenteric,
should be useful. Because the parts of the tree were tested with anti- pyretic, astringent etc. Terminalia tree have phyto
constituents like triter periods for cardiovascular properties,
V. Thanabal et al. International Journal of Recent Advances in Multidisciplinary Topics, VOL. 2, NO. 5, MAY 2021 13

tannin and flavonoids used for anti- cancer, anti- microbial Punica granatum is the botanical name of pomegranate fruit.
properties. The presence of tannin which is useful to produce The pomegranate fruit peel is a source of plant based yellow
the natural colour on the tree’s parts. The natural dyes are colour dye. This dye has a tannin content which is the main
extracted from the bark of terminalia tree which used for dyeing reason for yellow colour. The peel contains 81% of tannin and
the cotton fabrics. The barks were cleaned up with water and 19% of tanante along with pelletierine. The extraction of fresh
dried with direct sunlight. The bark was converted in to powder and rind pomegranate is used to dyeing the cotton fabric. The
state and weighed for 100 g and mixed with 1 litre of water and one-part extract powder is mixed with 10 part of distilled water
heated in beaker which kept over a time of 2 hours. This at 30oC and 60oC for 1hr. This solution was boiled at 100oC at
solution was filtered and this is used for dyeing operation. The ATM pressure for 1hr. And then this solution was soaking at
cotton fabrics are used this dyeing process with Mvvvvvv: L
30oC for 1hr with constant speed of 50 rpm. This solution was
ratio of 1:30 at 80C for one hour. The mordants of this process used for cotton dyeing process. The 1 g of cotton fabric is
is alum, copper sulphate, nickel sulphate, potassium
treated with 15 ml of extract solution (M:L 1:15) at 60oC. This
dichromate, ferrous sulphate and stannous chloride. The natural
experiment has tested with different temperature for knowing
mordants are cow dung, banana sap, turmeric and myrobolan
[12]–[15]. The mordants are using by three ways there are pre- the colour shade difference in the cotton fabric. After that the
mordanting method, post-mordanting method and simultaneous dyed fabric is tested with colour fastness tests. Likewise, the
mordanting methods. The colour fastness properties are tested light exposing to the fabric for 48 hr to analyse the lightfastness.
with IS standards. The wash fastness test results show the good The test results show the very good fastness properties to the
fastness of all commercial mordants. And then without light. To test the rub fastness under the conditions of wet and
mordanting and natural mordanting methods gives the poor and dry at 50 strokes. The test results show the quite good in dry rub
fairly good. The lightfastness (IS-2454-85) gives the result of fastness and quite poor in wet rub fastness. The tannin contents
quite good for averagely. Without mordanting method gives the provide the good affinity to the cotton fabric during dyeing
fairly good fastness to the fabric. Rub fastness of the process. The pomegranate peel contains the tannin content
commercial mordants based mordanting methods give the good highly this the reason for producing natural dye colourant of
fastness to the fabric. Natural mordants based mordanting yellow colour. The pomegranate peel was dried at room
methods give fairly good fastness to the fabric [10], [16]–[18]. temperature. The dried peel was converting into powder form
by using grinder. After the various treatments were tested and
3. Fruits finally the extraction process was done at 28oC for 24 hr and
1) Pomegranate 100oC for 1hr with the M: L ratio of 1:10 the pH range of 2-8.
The pomegranate peel contains the colouring agent which is The extracted powder was directly used in dyeing process. The
granatonine. This chemical component is present in N- methyl three mordanting process is done by the various range of
granatonine. The extraction of dye powder is prepared by the temperature for adding the mordants into the dyeing process.
solvent extraction method. There are three mordanting methods Likewise, pre-mordanting is done at 28oC for 30 mins with M:
are used to test the dye affinity like pre mordanting, post L ratio of 1:20. Simultaneous mordanting also done at 28oC for
mordanting and simultaneous mordanting. The study deals with 30 mins with equal mixture. Post mordanting process done at
the comparison between the natural dyes and synthetic dyes. 28oC for 60 mins with M: L ratio of 1:20. The colour yielding
The pomegranate peels were dried under room temperature and property of this pomegranate peel dye is good and fastness of
it is converting into powder form and then the extraction the dyed fabric also good. The anti-microbial property was
process was started. The powder of 100 g was taken and it is tested the test show the points of anti-microbial is 8 for E. coli
mixed with 500 ml ethanol. This solution was heated with water and Klebsiella sp and 10 points for S. aureus and 12 points for
bath at 60oC for 60 mins. The dye stuff material was filtered Baciella sp. Punica granatum L is the botanical name of
from the ethanol. This process is done by the using of Soxhlet pomegranate fruits. The peel of this fruits was taken into this
apparatus. The dye stuff material mixed with one third of the dyeing operation because the peel contains the tannin
distilled water and this solution kept in Soxhlet apparatus at components. This fruit was cultivated from mostly the Middle
70oC for 3 hrs. After that the material was separate from the East. The pomegranate peel was dried and directly used in
dyeing process. Here the pre-mordanting methods is used to
directly used in the dyeing process with dyeing temperature of produce the good colour affinity to the fabric. The mordanting
80oC with M:L ratio of 1:40 for 60 mins. The mordant (FeSo4, agents are potassium aluminium sulfate, copper (II) sulfate, iron
CuSo4) concentration of 2% was used in three type of (II) sulfate, tin (II) chloride were obtained from Merck
mordanting process and test the fastness properties after the (Germany). The mordanting agents are taken into the 3% of
dyeing process. Because of using three different mordant they concentration and potassium aluminium sulfate were taken into
give different shades of colour in the cotton fabric. The dark 20% for dyeing process at 100oC, p H – 7 for 1hr with M: L
shade gives the poor rub fastness both wet and dry rubbing ratio of 1:40. To dyeing with and without mordanting methods
fastness process, medium shade gives good fastness and light for testing the dye shades and colour affinity to the fabric. After
shades give the very good to quite good fastness properties. the dyeing process is done the test samples were washing by
Wash fastness test give the moderate fastness properties. Light
fastness test shows the result of the cotton fabric is very good dyed fabric is ready for analyse the colour fastness properties.
fastness properties by using the pomegranate peel dye powder. The washing fastness test results show the excellent fastness
V. Thanabal et al. International Journal of Recent Advances in Multidisciplinary Topics, VOL. 2, NO. 5, MAY 2021 14

behaviour of without mordanting samples. Pre-mordanting fabric. The neem leave has excellent quantity of flavonoid
samples result shows the good fastness properties of the dyed which may yield a dye which is in the colour of yellow. The dye
fabric. Dry and wet rub fastness test gives the good fastness was extracted from dried green leaves the process of dyeing
properties in both without and pre-mordanting process. Light includes 50g of dried neem leaves then those dried neem leaves
fastness test samples show the excellent fastness properties of were crushed and immersed in a 500ml of distilled water and
the dyed fabrics. Perspiration fastness test also gives good then boiled for one hour. In commercial textile product
fastness on both acidic and alkaline medium [19]–[25]. maximum, they are using synthetic antimicrobial agents, the
2) Grapes synthetic antimicrobial agents are triclosant, phenol and
Vitis vinifera is the botanical name of grapes. Which used in quaternary ammonium compounds, metals and salt. Generally
beverage industry like wine, packed juices etc., the beverage synthetic antimicrobial agents are costly and also creates some
industry released the certain amount of dye content materials. environmental trouble because of its cost and global issues so
This waste materials used as natural dye sources for textile that there is a huge demand for natural antimicrobial agent since
dyeing operation. This type of natural dyeing process has it is eco-friendly to nature, the neem leaves are also used as
red/yellow colour dyes from their sources. These dyes are antimicrobial agents. The methods for antimicrobial textile
formed by the extraction of anthocyanin/flavonoid dyes from include substrate of spun bonded non-woven and cotton fabric
fruits. The dye extraction process is done with boiling water were used, pasting of substrate with neem leaves extract and
extraction method. The presence of tannin content which helps Agno3 and quaternary ammonium compound were enforced on
to producing the dye affinity to the fabric. The aqueous SMS (spun bonded non-woven fabric) and 100% cotton fabric.
extraction method is used to produce the natural dyes. The Microorganisms were used to test the antimicrobial activity the
dyeing of wool is done by an exhaustion dyeing method using list of microorganisms used for testing includes E.coli,
a liquor ratio of 1:20. The dyeing temperature of this process is S.aureus, P.aeruginosa, B.subtilis and C.albicans agar
95oC. The mordanting agent like ferrous sulphate or alum was diffusion test (AATCC) was carried out for qualitative
added in the dyeing process for dyeing fixing process. After the ammonium testing method, in this test the microorganism were
dyeing process, the unfixed dyeing materials were removed placed above inoculated nutrient agar plate where the textile
from the wool by rinsing three times in cold water. After that samples are placed above in close contact to the plate and then
dyed fabric was tested with wet and light fastness. Wet fastness the plates were inoculated at 37oC for 18 to 24 hours. The
at 37oC which determined according to DIN 54006, the dyed bacterial growth has analyzing the inhibition zone if there is no
samples were wetting in distilled water for 4h. Light fastness bacterial growth has under the fabric while in direct contact it
was determined using an artificial illumination with xenon arc indicates the presence of antimicrobial activity in fabric. The
light according to DIN 54004. Light fastness was identified to extracted dye from neem leave exhibits average light fastness
be major hint a general introduction of all tested natural dyes. and good washing fastness property. The neem leaf extract
Both wet and light fastness test results show the good fastness shows almost same antimicrobial activity when compared to
properties of the natural dyes on wool materials [26], [27]. AgNo3 and QAC treated fabric. The neem leaf extract has
excellent antimicrobial activity on E. coli microorganism test
4. Leaves compared to other microorganism whilst poor antimicrobial
1) Neem Leaves activity on S.aureus microorganism test [28]–[33].
Neem is a medicinal plant and also diversified plant, Neem 2) Mango Leaves
plant (azadiracha indica) belongs to the family of meliaceae, Generally, Mangifera Indica is a medicinal plant and it
There are nearly 135 compounds have been found in different belongs to Anacardiaceae family. Naturally the mango leaves
parts of neem, these compounds are classified in two classes of have polyphenol component by itself. Due to the presence of
isopernoids and others the isoprenoid compounds which polyphenol in mango leaves it plays a several pharmacologic
includes diterpernoid, triterpernoid and it also contains properties such as antifungal and antibacterial and antioxidant.
azadirone, protomelions, limonoids and its derivatives such as The Chemical structure of mangifera indica leave is 1,3,6,7
azadirachtin and nimbin and salanin. The neem tree has tetrahydroxyanthane-C-2β-D glucoside. Before extracting the
containing a significant amount of saponin and cynade in a dye from leaves firstly we have to remove the dirt from leaves
moderate level which is not harm to humans but effective to and then leaves were thoroughly washed with water and dried
beetles and moth. The azadirachtin compound was isolated under sunlight after that grinded into very small particles while
from neem extract and it plays a main ingredient to reduce the grinding we must remove the waste particles. The colour was
manifestation of insects. The dye was extracted from neem extracted from the dried leaves of mangifera indica by using
leaves, the main elements of neem leaves includes aqueous extraction process. The dye molecular structure of
carbohydrates (22.0%), protein (1%), calcium, phosphorous, mangifera indica is a green colour. The optimize extraction
minerals, carotene, vitamin C etc., The neem leaves contain medium was pH 3-12 in a liquid ratio 1:10 at 98oc for 60 min.
some properties like anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, anti- The mangifera indica compounds are occupied by negatively
malarial etc.., Generally, the natural dyes were used to reduce charged hydroxide functional group. Due to the negative charge
the usage of synthetic dyes. Here we have used the neem leaf extracted dye was not directly interacted with a fabric. So that
extract for dyeing process as well as include super hydrophobic we have used mordant for dyeing process. Pre-Mordanting for
coating on dyed fabric to maintain the color of the dye from silk fabric using 5% of mordants are used. The mordants are
V. Thanabal et al. International Journal of Recent Advances in Multidisciplinary Topics, VOL. 2, NO. 5, MAY 2021 15

ferrous sulfate alum, ferrous sulfate alum & tin, alum & tin, microbial activity when it is introduced to the cell cultures
alum tin tannic acid is used in the liquid ratio 1:30 at 60oC for consisting of E.coli and Bacillus microbes. It can be an added
1hour. Mordanting for cotton (knit& woven) fabric which advantage when going for dyeing using this extract.
mordant has used for silk fabric the same mordant has used for
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