How to keep...

European lacertids
Herman A.J. in den Bosch

INTRODUCTION
Our webzine Pod@rcis is named after a, in evolutionary terms,
young branch of the large family Lacertidae. Apart from the genus
Podarcis, this group is represented in Europe by the genera
Acanthodactylus, Algyroides, Gallotia, Lacerta, Ophisops and
Psammodromus. This listing covers the most familiar names (not
taking into account recent taxonomical fine-tuning). As a matter of
fact, lacertid lizards are also found in Asia (think of the genus
Takydromus) and in Africa where the group may have originated.
The European species vary in size from very small, like the slender
Algyroides fitzingeri with a snout-vent length of approximately four
centimetres, to the bulky Lacerta lepida that is over twenty
centimetres in length.
Many species are relatively easy to keep. German and Dutch
breeders have been very successful with these lizards and it is
often possible to obtain animals from fellow enthusiasts. Make sure
that the animals are active, bright-eyed, and have properly filled-
out tail and thighs. The edges of the jaws should not show any (flat
to wart-like) greyish-brown or transparent protuberances. The
lizards should have completed their skin shedding without
problems so that no shreds of loose skin remain attached.

SEXUAL DIMORPHISM
As a general rule males are more powerfully built than females. At
a similar body length, males have a larger head and possess a
swollen tail base (which harbours the hemipenes). On the inside of
the thighs, both sexes show a row of pores. In males the openings
of the pores are larger and during the mating season, thick, wax-
like rods emerge from these openings. The more colourful lizards
are almost invariably males.

TERRARIUM
For smaller lizards, those with a snout-vent length of approximately
six cm, a simple but properly closing glass or plastic terrarium with
minimum measurements of 30x30x60 cm (wxhxl) and fitted with a
screen lid is sufficient. Bigger species will of course need a larger
home.
For bottom substrate it is better not to use sand because this may
cause eye problems. Branches and plants are a useful addition for
climbing. Some rocks need to be present so the lizards can wear
down their nails. Make sure the rocks are stable, because almost
unavoidably these will crush a lizard at an unforeseen moment.
Lacertids are fond of cracks and spaces between rocks and bark
as hiding places.
For lighting and, at the same time, heating 25 W spotlights are
adequate in a smaller terrarium. They will increase the temperature
locally (aim for 30-35ºC on the 'basking spots') while the rest of the
terrarium will remain cooler. Cooling down at night is favourable to
their health. Allow for at least 8-10 hours of light during the
summer. In spring and fall a few hours per day is sufficient. One
can even switch off the lights for a while.
A true hibernation of one to four months at temperatures of 2-4ºC
in, for example, humid peat covered with a layer of beech leaves is
essential for many species. Without it, reproduction in the following
spring may not be successful. It is essential that the animals
should have emptied their stomach and intestines because
otherwise the contents decompose in an uncontrolled manner,
which will inevitably result in death. Have the animals fast a few
days before their hibernation with the lights still on. Bear in mind
when putting animals through hibernation that species which in
nature only experience a slightly cooler period - such as Podarcis
milensis inhabiting a Mediterranean holiday island - will not survive
four months at near 0ºC. On the other hand, montane species like
Lacerta mosorensis will get sick from remaining awake throughout
the winter.
Most European lizards are easily kept in outdoor terraria. Make
sure that during the summer there is not only sun but also
sufficient shade, and that in winter the animals can retreat into
burrows that are deep enough for them to survive the frost.
Understandably, a high ground water level in your garden can be
lethal during this period. Protect the terrarium against unwanted
visitors from above (birds, cats) and below (moles, rats, mice).
Never let yourself be persuaded to take the animals out of their
terrarium for curious visitors. The lizards will not handle this very
well and will eventually fade away for 'inexplicable' reasons.

BEHAVIOUR
It is best to keep a single pair of lizards together or a male with a
few females. Keeping two males together is asking for trouble. Part
of the mating ritual is the male biting the female (often in the flank).
This is no reason to interfere. However, if a male is too eager to
mate with the females that are housed in the same small container,
he may eventually mortally wound them. In such a case it is often
preferable to separate the lizards after mating. Make sure that
females have the possibility to deposit their eggs in a container
with some moist potting soil. The eggs should be transferred to an
incubator kept at 25-30ºC. Good eggs are taut and have a
parchment-like shell; those that show dents and feel flabby are
probably unfertilised and incubating these is futile.
The juvenile lizards are fed small crickets or a variety of small
insects. These insects can be caught by sweeping a net through,
for instance, tall grass. Put the juveniles in a separate terrarium, as
their parents will rarely see them as their offspring.
Lizards worship the sun. Ensure that each has a place to bask so
that they are not in each other's way all the time. Of course, there
should also be access to proper shade. Lizards need exercise and
all kinds of obstacles for climbing are greatly appreciated.
Keeping these animals with other reptiles or amphibians is strongly
discouraged.

SPECIES
Every species has slightly different requirements. Some are very
peaceful, while others are not. Some are easily stressed, and other
species literally need to be shoved aside during feeding and
changing their drinking water.
European species are protected by law, but the regulations for
keeping them in captivity - with or without permits - differ from
country to country. Independent of these regulations, do not
attempt to keep Lacerta vivipara, Podarcis muralis or
Psammodromus algirus. These species are very difficult to raise.
The Canary Island lizards of the genus Gallotia are often extremely
shy in the terrarium, making it hard to derive much fun from them.
The larger Green Lizards, such as Lacerta viridis and Lacerta
bilineata, or the Turkish forms Lacerta media and Lacerta
pamphylica are often rewarding species; some individuals may
even become more or less tame and take food from your hand. Of
the smaller lizards, Podarcis sicula is a hardy species.

FOOD
Lizards predominantly eat insects. Island forms in particular
occasionally eat fruit in the wild. Make sure that the prey animals,
such as crickets, mealworms and buffalo worms, are being fed
properly themselves, with healthy food and lots of calcium (for
example bird rearing food). This will help to keep your lizards
healthy long term. Dust the insects with a mixture of minerals
before they are served to the lizards. Make sure that plenty of
calcium is easily accessible (e.g. by putting bite-sized pieces of
eggshell inside the terrarium). Adding water soluble ('aquosum')
vitamin A and D3 to the drinking water is absolutely necessary! A
minimum 20.000 I.E. vitamin A and 20.000 I.E. vitamin D3 per litre
is required. Refresh the drinking water on a daily basis, if possible.
Ultraviolet light in nature ensures proper vitamin D regulation. In
small terraria this situation can be mimicked with halogen lights,
but vitamin supplements are a more secure method of acquiring
vitamin D.

DISEASES
If a lizard does not crawl into hiding during the night, this should be
a general warning that something is amiss. If this happens, attempt
to find the cause for this anomalous behaviour.
The vitamins and minerals mentioned earlier will ensure that your
animals will not suffer from bone problems. Swollen, teary eyes
may indicate a vitamin A deficiency. A dirty mouth is a symptom of
a hard to treat infectious disease that not only affects the oral
mucous membranes, but actually invades the entire body of the
lizard. Local treatment with antibiotic cream is therefore only partly
successful. Long term oral administration of antibiotics normally
will completely cure this ailment. Do not give up too soon; instead
continue the treatment for a while after the mouth appears clean.
Some species (Podarcis lilfordi and Podarcis pityusensis) and
weakened animals are especially susceptible to this infectious
disease. Make sure to place infected animals in quarantine!
Ectoparasites in the form of ticks and mites (the so-called blood
lice) are easily treated with Vapona or another ectoparasiticum.
Consult with your veterinarian or a very experienced lizard keeper,
and do not start spraying insecticides without prior knowledge.
Observe your animals during the treatment as individual animals
may develop allergic reactions. Never use permethrin (Ardap
Spray), as this is lethal to small lizards.
Animals that eat well but still lose weight may have intestinal
worms.
Shedding of the dead outer layer of the skin, which comes off in
bits and pieces in the course of a few days, is a normal
phenomenon in lizards and not a symptom of any disease. In this
way, lizards renew their skin several times a year. Whitish or
yellowish areas not caused by skin remnants (which in itself can be
a sign of poor health) may indicate a fungal infection. Salve
containing miconazole, sold over-the-counter for treatment of
(human) athlete's foot, often helps.
One concluding remark: Almost all lizards have a tail that breaks
off when handled roughly. This is not a disease but a natural
escape mechanism, therefore, do not grab your lizards by the tail.

OTHER SMALL LIZARDS: THE GENUS LIOLEAMUS

The natural history of a number of temperate South American
lizards is more or less comparable to that of the European lacertid
lizards. Do not assume that every South American lizard lives in a
rainforest. One of the most common forms is Liolaemus tenuis.
The males are green with blue on the flanks, whereas the females
are brown with lighter spots. Juveniles are not very tolerant
towards each other, although no real fighting will take place. It is
advisable to raise them separately. The terrarium should definitely
not be too humid, because then whitish spots will appear on the
lizard's skin. However, if the terrarium is too dry, they will have
trouble shedding their skin. Spraying some water in the terrarium is
a good idea; you could add some vitamin D. These lizards also like
to climb plants. It is quite possible that several forms can be
recognised under names as Liolaemus gravenhorsti (a live-
bearing, higher altitude form), and the egg-laying Liolaemus
chilensis.
It seems that recently mainly small iguanids from Peru appear in
the pet trade. Keeping in mind that this country shows almost all
possible climates, it is obvious that it is essential to know the origin
of the species. Obtain this information before acquisition, not
afterward.
During summer in the Northern Hemisphere, it is winter in South
America and vice versa. Keep that in mind with recently imported
animals. If possible, it is preferable to start with captive-bred
offspring from other lizard keepers. Those animals are already
adjusted to our seasonal cycles, do not harbour parasites, and the
breeders can be a source of information.

MAGAZINE
The German magazine Die Eidechse (www.dght.de/lacertid.htm)
specialises in lacertid lizards.