3s Engine - Mechanical

EM–1
ENGINE MECHANICAL –
ENGINE MECHANICAL 3S-FE 2VZ

EM–2
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Description (3S–FE)
DESCRIPTION (3S–FE)
The 3S–FE engine is an in–line 4–cylinder 2.0 liter DOHC 16 valve engine.
EM–3
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Description (3S–FE)
The 3S–FE engine is an in–line 4–cylinder engine with the cylinders numbered 1 – 2 – 3 – 4 from the
front.
The crankshaft is supported by 5 bearing inside the crankcase. These bearing are made of aluminum
alloy.
The crankshaft is integrated with 8 weights for balance. Oil holes are placed in the center of the crank-
shaft to supply oil to the connecting rods, bearing, pistons and other components.
This engine’s ignition order is 1 – 3 – 4 – 2. The cylinder head is made of aluminum alloy, with a cross
flow type intake and exhaust layout and with pent–roof type combustion chambers. The spark plugs are
located in the center of the combustion chamber.
The intake manifold has 8 independent long ports and utilizes the inertial supercharging effect to im-
prove engine torque at low and medium speeds.
Exhaust and intake valves are equipped with irregular pitch springs made of special valve spring carbon
steel which are capable of functioning no matter what the engine speed.
The intake side camshaft is driven by a timing belt, and a gear on the intake side camshaft engages with
a gear on the exhaust side camshaft to drive it. The cam journal is supported at 5 places between the
valve lifters of each cylinder and on the front end of the cylinder head. Lubrication of the cam journal and
gear is accomplished by oil being supplied through the oiler port in the center of the camshaft.
Adjustment of the valve clearance is done by means of outer shim type system, in which valve adjusting
shims are located above the valve lifters. This permits replacement of the shims without removal of the
camshafts.
The resin timing belt cover is made of 2 pieces. A service hole is provided in the No. 1 belt cover for ad-
justing the timing belt tension.
Piston are made of high temperature–resistant aluminum alloy, and a depression is built into the piston
head to prevent interference with the valves.
Piston pins are the semi–floating type, with the pins fastened to the connecting rods by pressure fitting,
allowing the pistons and pins to float.
The No. 1 compression ring is made of steel and the No. 2 compression ring is made of cast iron. The oil
ring is made of a combination of steel and stainless steel. The outer diameter of each piston ring is
slightly larger than the diameter of the piston and the flexibility of the rings allows them to hug the cylin-
der walls when they are mounted on the piston rings No. 1 and No. 2 work to prevent gas leakage from
the cylinder and oil ring works to clear oil off the cylinder walls to prevent it from entering the combustion
chambers.
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. It has 4 cylinders which are approximately 2 times the length of
the piston stroke. The top of the cylinders is closed off by the cylinder head and the lower end of the cyl-
inders becomes the crankcase, in which the crankshaft is installed. In .addition, the cylinder block con-
tains a water jacket, through which coolant is pumped to cool the cylinders.
The oil pan is bolted onto the bottom of the cylinder block. The oil pan is an oil reservoir made of
pressed steel shoot. A dividing plate is included inside the oil pan to keep sufficient oil in the bottom of
the pan even when the vehicle is tilted. This dividing plate also prevents the oil from making waves when
the vehicle is topped suddenly and thus shifting the oil away from the oil pump suction pipe.
EM–4
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Description (2VZ–FE)
DESCRIPTION (2VZ–FE)
The 2VZ–FE engine is a V type 6–cylinder 2.5 liter DOHC 24 valve engine.
EM–5
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Description (2VZ–FE)
The 2VZ–FE engine has 6 cylinder in a V arrangement at bank of 60°. From the front of the RH bank cylin-
ders are numbered 1 – 3 – 5, and from the front of the LH bank cylinders are numbered 2 – 4 –r 6. The crankshaft is
supported by 4 bearings inside the crankcase. These bearing are made of copper and lead alloy.
The crankshaft is integrated with 5 weights for balance. Oil holes are placed in the center of the crankshaft for sup-
plying oil to the connecting rods, pistons and other components.
This engine’s ignition order is 1 – 2 – 3 – 4 – 5 – 6. The cylinder head is made of aluminum alloy, with a cross flow
type intake and exhaust layout and with pent–roof type combustion chambers. The spark plugs are located in the
center of the combustion chambers.
At,the front and rear of the intake port of the intake manifold, a water passage has been provided which connects
the RH and LH cylinder heads.
Exhaust and intake valves are equipped with irregular pitch springs made of special valve spring carbon steel which
are capable of functioning no matter what the engine speed.
The RH and LH intake camshaft are driven by a single timing belt, and a gear on the intake side camshaft engages
with a gear on the exhaust side camshaft to drive it. The cam journal is supported at 5 (intake) or 4
(exhaust) places between the valve liters of each cylinder and on the front end of the cylinder head. Lubrication of
the cam journals and gears is accomplished by oil being supplied through the oiler port in the center of the camshaft.
Adjustment of the valve clearance is done by means of outer shim type system, in which valve adjusting shims are
located above the valve lifters. The permits replacement of the shims without removal of the camshafts.
The timing belt cover is composed of resin type No. 2 and No. 1 above and below the RH mounting bracket.
Piston are made high temperature–resistant aluminum alloy, and a depression is built into the piston head to prevent
interference with the valves.
Piston pins are the semi–floating type, with the pins fastened to the connecting rods by pressure fitting, allowing the
pistons and pins to float.
The No. 1 compression ring is made of steel and the No. 2 compression ring is made–of cast iron. The oil ring is
made of a combination of steel and stainless steel. The outer diameter of each piston ring is slightly larger than the
diameter of the piston and the flexibility of the rings allows them to hug the cylinder walls when they are mounted on
the piston. Compression rings No. 1 and No. 2 work to prevent gas leakage from the cylinder and oil ring works to
clear oil off the cylinder walls to prevent it from entering the combustion chambers.
The cylinder block is made of cast iron with a bank angle of 60°. It has 6 cylinders which are approximately 2
times the length of the piston stroke. The top of the cylinders is closed off by the cylinder heads and the lower end of
the cylinders becomes the crankcase, in which the crankshaft is installed. In addition, the cylinder block contains a
water jacket, through which coolant is pumped to cool the cylinders.
The oil pan is bolted onto the bottom of the cylinder block. The oil pan is an oil reservoir made of pressed steel
sheet. A dividing plate is included inside the oil pan to keep sufficient oil in the bottom of the pan even when the ve-
hicle is tilted. This dividing plate also prevents the oil from making waves when the vehicle is stopped suddenly and
thus shifting the oil away from the oil pump suction pipe.
EM–6
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Troubleshooting
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE OVERHEATING
Problem Possible cause Remedy Page
Engine overheats Cooling system faulty Troubleshoot cooling system CO–4
Incorrect ignition timing Reset timing
HARD STARTING
Engine will not crank or Starting system faulty Troubleshoot starting system ST–2
cranks slowly
Engine will not start/ No fuel supply to injector Troubleshoot EFI system FI–10
hard to start • No fuel in tank
(cranks OK) • Fuel pump no working
• Fuel filter clogged
• Fuel line clogged or leaking
EFI system problems Repair as necessary
Ignition problems
Perform spark test
• Ignition coil IG–5, 9
• Igniter
• Distributor
Spark plug faulty
High–tension cord disconnected or broken Inspect plugs IG–6, 10
Vacuum leaks Inspect cords IG–6, 10
• PCV line Repair as necessary
• EGR line
• Intake manifold
• Air intake chamber
• Throttle body
• ISC valve
• Brake booster tine
Pulling in air between air flow meter and
throttle body
Low compression
Repair as necessary
Check compression EM–22
ROUGH IDLING
Rough idle, stalls or Spark plug faulty Inspect plugs IG–6, 10
misses High–tension cord faulty Inspect cords IG–6, 10
Ignition problems
• Ignition coil
• Igniter IG–7, 12
Inspect coil
• Distributor Inspect igniter IG–8, 12
Incorrect ignition timing Inspect distributor IG–7, 12
Vacuum leaks Reset timing IG–16, 20
Repair as necessary
• PCV line
• EGR line
• Intake manifold
EM–7
ROUGH IDLING (Cont’d)

Rough idle, stalls or Vacuum leaks (Cont’d)
misses (Cont’d) • Air intake chamber
• Throttle body
• ISC valve
• Brake booster line
throttle body
Incorrect idle speed
Check ISC system FI–116, 118
Incorrect valve clearance
Adjust valve clearance EM–11, 15
Engine overheats Check cooling system CO–4
Low compression Check compression EM–22
ENGINE HESITATES/POOR ACCELERATION

Engine hesitates/ Spark plug faulty Inspect plugs IG–6, 10
poor acceleration High–tension cord faulty Inspect cords IG–6, 10
Vacuum leaks Repair as necessary
• PCV line
• EGR line
• Intake manifold
• Throttle body
• ISC valve
throttle body Repair as necessary
Incorrect ignition timing
Incorrect valve clearance
Reset timing IG–16, 20
Fuel system clogged Adjust valve clearance EM–11, 15
Air cleaner clogged Check fuel system
EFI system problems Check air cleaner MA–5
Emission control system problem Repair as necessary
(cold engine)
• EGR system always on Check EGR system EC–8,21
Engine overheats Check cooling system Co–4
Low compression Check compression EM–22
EM–8
ENGINE DIESELING
Engine diesels EFI system problems Repair as necessary
(runs after ignition switch Incorrect ignition timing Reset timing IG–16, 20
is turned off) EGR system faulty Check EGR system
EC–8, 21
AFTER FIRE, BACKFIRE

Muffler explosion Deceleration fuel cut system always off Check EFI (fuel cut) system
(after fire) on
deceleration only
Muffler explosion Air cleaner clogged Check air cleaner MA–5

(after fire) all the time EM system problem Repair as necessary
lG–16, 20
Engine backfires EFI system problem Repair as necessary
Vacuum leak Check hoses and repair as
a PCV line necessary
• EGR tine
• Intake manifold
• Throttle body
• ISC valve
• Brake booster fine
Pulling in air between air flow meter and Repair as necessary
throttle body
Insufficient fuel flow incorrect ignition tim- Troubleshoot fuel system
ing Reset timing FI–10
Incorrect valve clearance Adjust valve clearance IG –16, 20
Carbon deposits in combustion cham- Inspect cylinder head EM–11, 15
EM–56, 84
bers
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

Excessive oil Oil leak Repair as necessary
consumption PCV line clogged Check PCV system
EC–4, 15
Piston ring worn or damaged Check rings
EM–123, 156
Valve stem and guide bushing worn Check valves and guide bushing
EM–57,85
Valve stem oil seal worn Check seals
EM–9
EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION

Poor gasoline Fuel leak Repair as necessary
mileage Air cleaner clogged Check air cleaner
MA–5
IG–16, 20
• Injector faulty
• Deceleration fuel cut system faulty
Idle speed too high Check ISC system
Spark plug faulty Inspect plugs
Check EGR system
EGR system always on
Check compression FI–116,118
Low compression Inflate tires to proper pressure IG–6, 10
Tires improperly inflated Troubleshoot clutch EC–8, 21
Clutch slips Troubleshoot brakes EM–22
Brakes drag
UNPLEASANT ODOR
Incorrect idle speed Check ISC system FI–116, 118
Unpleasant odor
Incorrect ignition timing Reset timing IG–16, 20
Vacuum leaks Repair as necessary
• PCV line
• EGR line
• Intake manifold
• Throttle body
• ISC valve
EFI system problems
Repair as necessary
EM–10
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Engine Tune–Up
ENGINE TUNE–UP
INSPECTION OF ENGINE COOLANT
(See steps 1 and 2 on page CO–4)
INSPECTION OF ENGINE OIL
(See steps 1 and 2 on page LU–6)
INSPECTION OF BATTERY
(See steps 1 and 2 on page CH–3)
Standard specific gravity:
1.25 –1.27 when fully charged at 2O°C (68°F)
INSPECTION OF AIR FILTER
(See step 3 on page MA–5)
INSPECTION OF HIGH–TENSION CORDS
(See page IG–6 or 10)
Maximum resistance: 25 kΩ per cord
INSPECTION OF SPARK PLUGS (3S–FE)
(See page IG–6)
Correct electrode gap: 1.1 mm (0.043 in.)
Recommended spark plugs:
ND Q16R–U11
NGK BCPR5EY11
INSPECTION OF SPARK PLUGS (2VZ–FE)
(See page IG–10)
Correct electrode gap of new plug:
1.1 mm (0.043 in.)
Maximum electrode gap: 1.3 mm (0.051 in.)
Recommended spark plugs:
ND P020R
NGK BCPR6EP11
INSPECTION OF ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT
(See step 3 on page CH–3)
Drive belt tension:
3S–FE w/ A/C New belt 175 ±5 Ib
Used belt 130 ±10 Ib
w/o A/C New belt 125 ±25 Ib
2VZ–FE New belt 175 ±5 Ib
EM–11
ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE CLEARANCE

(3S–FE)
HINT: Adjust the valve clearance while the engine is cold.
1. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
(See step 29 on page EM–52)
2. SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION

(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the tim-
ing mark ”0” of the No–1 timing belt cover.
(b) Check that the valve lifters, on the No–1 cylinder are loose
and valve lifters on the No.4 are tight.
If not, turn the crankshaft one revolution (360°) and align
the mark as above.
3. ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE

(a) Check the only those valves indicated.
• Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the valve
lifter and camshaft.
• Record the valve clearance measurements which are out of
specification. They will be used later to determine the required
replacement adjusting shim.
Valve clearance (Cold):
Intake 0.19 – 0.29 mm (0.007 – 0.011 in.)
Exhaust 0.28 – 0.38 mm(0.011 – 0.015 in.)
(b) Turn the crankshaft one revolution (360°) and align the
mark as above. (See procedure step 2)
(c) Check only the valves indicated as shown.
Measure the valve clearance. (See procedure step (a))
(d) Remove the adjusting shim.

• Turn the crankshaft to position the cam lobe of the cam-
shaft on the adjusting valve upward.
• Using SST (A), press down the valve lifter and place
SST (B) between the camshaft and valve lifter.
Remove SST (A).
SST 09248–55010
HINT: Before pressing down the valve lifter, position the
notch the spark plug.
EM–12
• Remove the adjusting shim with a small screwdriv-

er and magnetic finger.
(e) Determine the replacement adjusting shim size by fol-

lowing the Formula or Charts:
• Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the re-
moved shim.
• Calculate the thickness of a new shim so that the valve
clearance comes within specified value.
T ..... Thickness of used shim
A ..... Measured valve clearance
N ..... Thickness of new shim
Intake N = T + (A – 0.24 mm (0.009 in.))
Exhaust N = T + (A – 0.33 mm (0–013 in.))
• Select a new shim with a thickness as close as possible
to the calculated valve.
HINT: Shims are available in twenty–seven sizes of
mm (0.0020 in.), from 2.50 mm (0.0984 in.) to 3.30 mm
A 1299 in.).
(f) Install a new adjusting shim.

• Place a new adjusting shim on the valve lifter.
• Using SST 1Ay, press down the valve lifter and remove
SST (B).
SST 09248–55010
(g) Recheck the valve clearance.
4. REINSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER

EM–13
Adjusting Shim Selection Using Chart

INTAKE
Measured
clearance
(mm)
New shim thickness mm (in.)

Shim Shim
Thickness Thickness
No. No.
Intake valve clearance (Cold):

0.19 – 0.29 mm (0.007 – 0.011 in.)
EXAMPLE: The 2.800 mm 10.1102 in.) shim is installed
and the measured clearance is 0.450 mm (0.0177 in.).
Replace the 2.800 mm (0.1102 in.) shim with a No. 22
shim.
EM–14

EXHAUST
Measured Installed shim thickness

clearance
(mm)

Shim Shim
Thickness Thickness
No. No.
Exhaust valve clearance:

0.28 – 0.38 mm (0.011 – 0.015 in.)
EXAMPLE: The 2.800 mm (0.1102 in.) shim is installed
shim.
EM–15
ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE CLEARANCE

(2VZ–FE)
HINT: Adjust the valve clearance while the engine is cold.
1. REMOVE AIR INTAKE CHAMBER
(See steps 1 to 21 on page FI–76 and 77)
2. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVERS
3. SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDCI COMPRESSION

(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with the tim-
ing mark ”0” of the No.1 timing belt cover.
(b) Check that the valve lifters on the No. 1 (IN) are loose
and valve lifters on the No.1 (EX) are tight.
If not, turn the crankshaft one revolution (360°) and align the
mark as above.
4. ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE

(a) Check only those valves indicated in the figure.
• Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the
valve lifter and camshaft.
• Record the valve clearance measurements which are out of
specification. They will be used later to determine the re-
quired replacement adjusting shim.
Intake 0.13 – 0:23 mm (0.005 – 0.009 in.)
Exhaust 0.27 – 0.37 mm (0.011 – 0.015 in.)
(b) Turn the crankshaft 2/3 of a revolution (240°), and check only
the valves indicated in the figure.
Measure the valve clearance.
(See procedure step W)
(c) Turn the crankshaft a further 2I3 of a revolution

(240°), and check only the valves indicated in the fig-
ure.
Measure the valve clearance.
(See procedure step (a))
EM–16
(d) Remove the adjusting shim.

• Turn the crankshaft to position the cam lobe of the
camshaft on the adjusting valve upward.
• Press down the valve lifter with SST (A), and place
SST (B) between the camshaft and valve lifter.
Remove SST (A).
SST 09248–55010
HINT: Before pressing down the valve lifter, position the
notch the spark plug.
• Remove the adjusting shim with a small screw-

driver and magnetic finger.
(e) Determine the replacement adjusting shim size by following

the Formula or Charts:
• Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the.
removed shim.
• Calculate the thickness of a new shim so that the.
valve clearance comes within specified value.
T .......... Thickness of used shim
A .......... Measured valve clearance
N .......... Thickness of new shim
Intake N = T + (A – 0.18 mm (0.007 in.) )
Exhaust N = T + (A – 0.32 mm (0.013 in.))
• Select a new. shim with a thickness as close as possible to
the calculated values.
HINT: Shims are available in seventeen sizes of 0.05
mm (0.0020 in.), from 2.50 mm (0.0984 in.) to 3.30 mm
(0.1299 in.).
(f) Install a new adjusting shim.
• Place a new adjusting shim on the valve lifter.
• Press down the valve lifter with SST (A), and remove SST
(B).
SST 09248–55010
(g) Recheck the valve clearance.
5. REINSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVERS
6. REINSTALL AIR INTAKE CHAMBER
(See steps 18 to 40 pages FI–105 to 106)
EM–17

INTAKE
Installed shim thickness (mm)

Measured
clearance
(mm)

Shim Shim
Thickness Thickness
N No.
Intake valve clearance (Cold):

0.13 – 0.23 mm (0.005 – 0.009 in.)
shim.
EM–18

EXHAUST
Installed Shim thickness (mm)

Measured
clearance
(mm)

Shim Shim
Thickness Thickness
No. No.
Exhaust valve clearance:

0.27 – 0.37 mm (0.011 – 0.015 in.)
shim.
EM–19
ADJUSTMENT OF IGNITION TIMING

3S–FE (See steps 7 to 10 on pages IG–16 and 17)
2VZ–FE (See steps 6 to 11 on pages IG–20 and 21)
Ignition timing:
10°BTDC @ idle
(w/ Terminals TE1 and E1 connected)
ADJUSTMENT OF IDLE SPEED (3S–FE)
(See HINT on page FI–17)
1. INITIAL CONDITIONS
(a) Engine at normal operating temperature
(b) Air cleaner installed
(c) All pipes and hoses of air induction system connected
(d) All vacuum lines connected
HINT: All vacuum hoses for EGR systems, etc. should be
properly connected.
(e) EFI system wiring connectors fully plugged
(f) All accessories switched OFF
(g) Transmission in N range
2. CONNECT TACHOMETER (See page IG–16)
3. ADJUST IDLE SPEED
(a) Using SST, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the check
connector.
SST 09845–18020
HINT: Decrease the rpm after the engine maintains a speed
of the 1,000 – 1,300 rpm for 5 seconds.
(b) Check the idle speed.

Idle speed: 660 rpm or more
(c) If the idle speed is not as specified, adjust the idle speed
by turning the IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING
SCREW.
(d) Remove SST.

4. FURTHER CHECK IDLE SPEED
Idle speed: 700 ± 5O rpm
If the idle speed is not within these values, carry out either of
the below listed procedures and then recheck the idle speed.
Carry out a driving test, including stop–go several times at a
speed above 10 km/h, or– start the engine, idle for
30 seconds and then turn the engine ’off repeatedly. By
doing this, idle data will be stored in the ISC and the idle rpm
will be at specified value.
EM–20
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Idle and or 2 500 rpm HC CO Concentration Check Method
IDLE AND OR 2,500 RPM HC CO

CONCENTRATION CHECK
METHOD
HINT: This check is used only to determine whether or not
the idle HC/CO complies with regulations.
1. INITIAL CONDITIONS
(b) Engine at normal operating temperature
(b) Air cleaner installed
(e) All pipes and hoses of air induction system connected
(d) All operating accessories switched OFF
(e) All vacuum lines properly connected
HINT: All vacuum hoses for EGR systems, etc. should be
properly connected.
(f) EFI system wiring connectors fully plugged
(g) Ignition timing set correctly
(h) Transmission in N range
(i) Tachometer and HC/CO meter calibrated and at hand
2. START ENGINE
3. RACE ENGINE AT 2,500 RPM FOR APPROX. 2
MINUTES
4. INSERT HC/CO METER TESTING PROBE INTO

TAILPIPE AT LEAST 40 cm (1.3 ft)
5. CHECK HC/CO CONCENTRATION AT IDLE
Complete the measuring within three times.
HINT: When performing the 2 mode (2,500 rpm and idle)
test, follow the measurement order prescribed by the regula-
tions.
If the HC/CO concentration at 2,500 rpm does not comply
with regulations, try the following procedure.
Race the engine again at 2,500 rpm for approx. 1 minute
and quickly repeat steps 4 and 5 above.
This may correct the problem.
EM–21
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Idle and or 2 500 rpm HC CO Concentration Check
Method
Troubleshooting
If the HC/CO concentration does not comply with regula-
tions, perform troubleshooting in the order given below.
(a) Check oxygen sensor operation.
(See page FI–129)
(b) See the table below for possible causes, and then inspect
and correct the applicable causes if necessary.
Problem Cause
High Normal Rough idle 1. Faulty ignition:
• Incorrect timing
• Fouled, shorted or improperly gapped plugs
• Open or crossed high–tension cords
• Cracked distributor cap
2. Incorrect valve clearance
3. Leaky EGR valve
4. Leaky intake and exhaust valves
5. Leaky cylinder
High Low Rough idle 1. Vacuum leak:

(Fluctuating HC reading) • PCV hose
• EGR valve
• Intake manifold
• Throttle body
• ISC valve
2. Lean mixture causing misfire
High High Rough idle 1. Restricted air filter

(Black smoke from exhaust) 2. Faulty EFI system
• Faulty pressure regulator
• Clogged fuel return line
• Defective water temp. sensor
• Defective air temp. sensor
• Faulty ECU
• Faulty injector
• Faulty cold start injector
• Faulty throttle position sensor
• Air flow meter
EM–22
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Compression Check
COMPRESSION CHECK
HINT: If there is lack of power, excessive oil consumption or
poor fuel economy, measure the compression pressure.
1. WARM UP AND STOP ENGINE
Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating tempera-
ture.
2. DISCONNECT COLD START INJECTOR CONNECTOR
3. DISCONNECT DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTOR
4. REMOVE SPARK PLUGS (See page IG–6 or 11)
5. CHECK CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
(a) Insert a compression gauge into the spark plug hole.
(b) Fully open the throttle.
(c) While cranking the engine, measure the compression pres-
sure.
HINT: Always use a fully charged battery to obtain engine
speed of 250 rpm or more.
(d) Repeat steps (a) through (c) for each cylinder.
NOTICE: This measurement must be in as short a time
as possible.
Compression pressure:
12.5 kg–cm2 (178 psi, 1,226 kPa) or more
Minimum pressure:
10.0 kg/cm2 (142 psi, 981 kPa)
Difference between each cylinder:
1.0 kg/cm2 (14 psi, 98 kPa) or less
(e) if the cylinder compression in one or more cylinders is low,
pour a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder through
the spark plug hole and repeat steps (a) through (e) for cyl-
inders with low compression.
• If adding oil helps the compression chances are that the pis-
ton rings and/or cylinder bore are worn or damaged.
• If pressure stays low, a valve may be sticking or seating is im-
proper, or there may be leakage past the gasket.
6. REINSTALL SPARK PLUGS (See page IG–7 or 11)
Torque: 180 kg–cm 0 3 ft–Ib, 18 N–m)
7. RECONNECT DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTOR
8. RECONNECT COLD START INJECTOR CONNECTOR
EM–23
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Timing Belt (3S–FE)
TIMING BELT (3S–FE)

COMPONENTS
REMOVAL OF TIMING BELT

1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE TERMINAL
OF BATTERY
2. REMOVE RN FRONT WHEEL
3. REMOVE ENGINE RH UNDER COVER
4. REMOVE CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
5. REMOVE DRIVE BELTS
6. REMOVE ALTERNATOR (See page CH–6)
7. REMOVE ALTERNATOR BRACKET
8. REMOVE RH MOUNTING STAY
(2WD)
Remove the three bolts and mounting stay.
EM–24
(4WD)
Remove the bolt, nut, ground strap and mounting
stay.
9. SLIGHTLY JACK UP ENGINE

.
Raise the engine enough to remove the weight from the en-
gine mounting on the right side.
10. REMOVE ENGINE RH MOUNTING INSULATOR AND
BRACKET
(a) (2WD)
Remove the four nuts, bolt and mounting insulator.
(b) (4WD)
Remove through bolt, two nuts and mounting insulator.
(c) Remove the three bolts and mounting bracket.
11. REMOVE SPARK PLUGS (See page IG–6)
12. REMOVE No.2 TIMING BELT COVER

Remove the five bolts, belt cover and gaskets.

(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the tim-
ing mark ”0” of the No. 1 timing belt cover.
EM–25
(b) Check that the hole of the camshaft timing pulley is aligned
with the alignment mark of the bearing cap.
If not, turn the crankshaft one revolution (360°).
14. REMOVE TIMING BELT FROM CAMSHAFT TIMING

PULLEY
HINT: If reusing the timing belt, place the matchmarks on
the timing belt and camshaft timing pulley.
(a) Loosen the mount bolt of the No. 1 idler pulley and shift
the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, tempo-
rarily tighten it.
(b) Remove the timing belt from the camshaft tinning
pulley.
15. REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY

Using SST, remove the bolt, plate washer and pulley.
SST 09278–54012
16. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

(a) Using SST, remove the pulley mount bolt.
SST 09213–54015 (09214–00030) and 09330–00021
EM3334
EM–26
(b) Using SST, remove the pulley.

SST 09213–60017 (09213–00020, 09213–00030
09213–00050)
17. REMOVE NO.1 TIMING BELT COVER

Remove the four bolts, belt cover and gasket.
18. REMOVE TIMING BELT AND BELT GUIDE

HINT: If reusing the tinning belt, draw a direction arrow on
the timing belt (in direction of engine revolution), and place
the matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft timing
pulley.
19. REMOVE NO.1 IDLER PULLEY AND TENSION SPRING

Remove the bolt, pulley and tension spring.
20. REMOVE NO.2 IDLER PULLEY

Remove the bolt and pulley.
EM–27
21. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT TIMING PULLEY

If the pulley cannot be removed by hand, use two screwdriv-
ers.
HINT: Position shop rags as shown to prevent damage.
22. REMOVE OIL PUMP PULLEY

Using SST, remove the nut and pulley.
SST 09616–30011
INSPECTION OF TIMING BELT COMPONENTS

1. INSPECT TIMING BELT
NOTICE:
• Do not bend, twist or turn the timing belt inside out.
• Do not allow the timing belt to come into contact with
oil, water or steam.
• Do not utilize timing belt tension when installing or
removing the mount bolt of the camshaft timing pulley.
If there are any defects as shown in the figures, check

the following points:
(a) Premature parting
• Check for proper installation.
• Check the timing cover gasket for damage and proper
installation.
(b) If the belt teeth are cracked or damaged, check to see

if either the camshaft, water pump is locked.
EM3338
EM–28
(c) If there are cracks or noticeable wear on the belt face,

check to see if there are nicks on the side of the idler
pulled lock.
(d) If there is wear or damage on only one side of the belt,

check the belt guide and the alignment of each
pulley.
(e) If there is noticeable wear on the belt teeth, check tim-

ing cover for damage and check for correct gasket
installation. Check for foreign material on the pulley
teeth.
If necessary, replace the timing belt.
2. INSPECT IDLER PULLEYS

Check the turning smoothness of the idler pulley.
If necessary, replace the idler pulley.
3. INSPECT TENSION SPRING

(a) Measure the free length of tension spring.
Free length: 46.1 mm (1.815 in.)
If the free length is not as specified, replace the tension spring.
(b) Measure the tension of the tension spring at the specified
installed length.
Installed tension:
6.0 – 7.0 kg (13.2 – 15.4 Ib, 59 – 69 N–m)
at 50.5 mm (1.988 in.)
If the installed tension is not as specified, replace the ten-
sion spring.
EM–29
INSTALLATION OF TIMING BELT

(See page EM–23)
1. INSTALL OIL PUMP PULLEY
(a) Align the cutouts of the pulley and shaft, and slide the
pulley.
(b) Using SST, install and torque the nut.
SST 09616–30011
Torque: 290 kg–cm (21 ft–Ib, 28 N–m)
2. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT TIMING PULLEY

Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the pulley,
and slide the pulley.
3. INSTALL NO.2 IDLER PULLEY

(a) Install the pulley with the bolt. Torque the bolt.
(b) Check that the pulley moves smoothly.
HINT: Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it
clean.
4. TEMPORARILY INSTALL NO.1 IDLER PULLEY AND

TENSION SPRING
(a) Install the pulley with the bolt. Do not tighten the bolt yet.
(b) Install the tension spring.
(e) Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go and tighten
the bolt.
5. TEMPORARILY INSTALL TIMING BELT

NOTICE: The engine should be cold.
Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump,
No–2 idler and water pump pulleys.
HINT: If reusing the timing belt, align the points marked dur-
ing removal, and install the belt with the arrow pointing in
the direction of engine revolution.
EM–30
6. INSTALL TIMING BELT GUIDE

Install the guide, facing the cup side outward.
7. INSTALL NO.1 TIMING BELT COVER

(a) Install the gasket to the belt cover.
(b) Install the belt cover with the four bolts.
8. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

(a) Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the pulley, slide
the pulley.
(b) using SST, install and torque the bolt.
SST 09213–54015 (09213–00030) and 09330– 21
Torque: 1,100 kg–cm (80 ft–Ib, 108 N–m)
9. INSTALL CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY

(a) Align the camshaft knock pin with the knock pin groove
of the pulley, and slide the pulley.
(b) Using SST, install the plate washer and bolt.
Torque the bolt.
SST 09278–54012
10. SET NO.1 CYLINDER .TO TDC/COMPRESSION

(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align the its groove with
the ”0” timing mark of the No. 1 timing belt cover.
EM–31
(b) Using SST, turn the camshaft, and align the hole of the
camshaft timing pulley with the matchmark of the
bearing cap.
SST 09278–54012
11. INSTALL TIMING BELT

HINT: If reusing the timing belt, first align the rnatchmarks of
the timing belt and camshaft timing pulley.
Install the timing belt, insure that there is tension be-

tween the crankshaft timing pulley, water pump pulley
and camshaft timing pulley.
12. CHECK VALVE TIMING

(a) Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley mount bolt 1/2 turn.
(b) Turn the crankshaft pulley two revolutions from TDC to

TDC.
HINT: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.
EM–32
(c) Check that each pulley aligns with the timing marks as
shown in the figure.
If the marks do not align, remove the timing belt and
reinstall it.
(d) Torque the mount bolt of the No.1 idler pulley.

13. INSTALL NO–2 TIMING BELT COVER

(a) Install the two gaskets to the No. 1 and No.2 belt covers.
(b) Install the belt cover with the five bolts.
14. INSTALL SPARK PLUGS (See page IG–7)

Torque: 180 kg–cm (13 ft–lb, 18 N–m)
15. INSTALL ENGINE RH MOUNTING INSULATOR AND
BRACKET
(a) Install the bracket with the three bolts. Torque the bolts.
Torque: 530 kg–cm (38 ft–ib, 52 N–m)
(b) (2WD)
Install the mounting insulator to the mounting bracket
and body, and temporarily install the mounting insula-
tor bolt, four nuts and mounting stay bolt (A). Torque
the mounting insulator bolt and four nuts. Do not
torque the mounting stay bolt (A) yet.
Torque:
Bolt 650 kg–cm (47 ft–lb, 64 N–m)
Nut To bracket 530 kg–cm (38 ft–lb, 52 N–m)
To body 900 kg–cm (65 ft–11b, 88 N–m)
EM–33
(c) (4WD)
Install the mounting insulator with the through bolt and two
nuts. Torque the through bolt and nuts.
Torque:
Through bolt 890 kg–cm (64 ft–Ib, 87 N–m)
Nut 530 kg–cm (38 ft–Ib, 52 N–m)
16. LOWER ENGINE
17. INSTALL ENGINE RH MOUNTING STAY

(2WD)
Install the mounting stay with the three bolts. Torque the
bolts.
(4WD)
Install the mounting stay and ground strap with the bolt and
nut. Torque the bolt and nut.
18. INSTALL ALTERNATOR BRACKET
19. INSTALL ALTERNATOR (See page CH–14)
20. INSTALL DRIVE BELTS
Adjust the drive belts. (See page CH–3)
Drive belt tension:
Alternator w/ A/C . New belt 175 ± 5 lb
Used belt 130 ± 10 Ib
w/o, A/C New belt 125 ± 25 Ib
Used belt 9 5 ± 20 Ib
PS pump New belt 125 ± 10 lb
21. INSTALL CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
22. INSTALL ENGINE RH UNDER COVER
23. INSTALL RH FRONT WHEEL
24. CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF
BATTERY
EM–34
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Timing Belt (2VZ–FE)
TIMING BELT (2VZ–FE)

COMPONENTS
REMOVAL OF TIMING BELT

OF BATTERY
2. (w/ CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM)
REMOVE CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR AND
VACUUM PUMP
(See step 14 on page EM–140 or 141)
3. REMOVE PS OIL RESERVOIR TANK WITHOUT
DISCONNECTING HOSES
4. REMOVE RH FRONT WHEEL
5. REMOVE ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT
6. REMOVE RH FENDER APRON SEAL
7. REMOVE PS DRIVE BELT
EM–35
8. REMOVE ENGINE RH MOUNTING STAYS

(a) Remove the three bolts and No.1 mounting stay.
(b) Remove the bolt, nut and No.2 mounting stay.
9. SLIGHTLY JACK UP ENGINE

Raise the engine enough to remove the weight from the en-
gine mounting on the right side.
10. REMOVE ENGINE RH MOUNTING INSULATOR
(a) (w/ A.B.S..)
Remove the clamp bolts of the PS oil cooler pipes.
(b) Remove the bolt, four nuts and mounting insulator.

Remove the eight bolts, timing belt cover and gasket.
13. REMOVE ENGINE RH MOUNTING BRACKET

Remove the three bolts and mounting bracket.
14. IF RE–USING TIMING BELT, CHECK INSTALLATION

MARKS ON TIMING BELT
Check that there are four installation marks on the timing belt
by turning the crankshaft pulley as shown in the illustration.
If the installation marks have disappeared, place a new
installation mark on .the timing belt before removing each
part.
EM–36
15. SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDCI COMPRESSION

(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing
mark ”0” of the No.1 timing belt cover.
(b) Check that timing marks of the camshaft timing

pulleys and No–3 timing belt cover are aligned.
If not, turn the crankshaft one revolution (360°).
16. REMOVE TIMING BELT TENSIONER

Remove the two bolts, tensioner and dust boot.
17. REMOVE TIMING BELT FROM CAMSHAFT TIMING

PULLEY
HINT (Re–using timing belt): If the installation marks have
disappeared, before removing the timing belt, place new
instillation marks on the timing belt to match the timing marks
of the camshaft timing pulleys.
(a) Using SST, loosen– the tension between the LH and

RH camshaft timing pulleys by slightly turning the RH
camshaft timing pulley clockwise.
SST 09278–54012
EM–37
(b) Remove the timing belt from the camshaft timing pul-
leys.
HINT (Re–using timing belt): If the installation marks

have disappeared, after removing the timing belt from
the camshaft timing pulleys, place new installation mark
on the timing belt to match the end of the No. 1 timing
belt cover.
20. REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEYS

Using SST, remove the bolt, timing pulley and knock pin.
Remove the two timing pulleys.
SST R H 09249–63010 and 09278–54012
LH 09278–54012
HINT: Arrange the RH and LH pulleys.
21. REMOVE NO. 2 IDLER PULLEY

Remove the bolt and idler pulley.
EM–38
22. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

(a) Using SST, remove the pulley bolt.
SST 09213–54014 (Body),
90213–70010 (90105–08076 (Bolt)) and 09330–00021
HINT (Re–using timing belt): When the crankshaft pulley

bolt is loosened, the position of the timing mark of the
crankshaft pulley and also the installation mark may slip,
so check and align them again.
(b) Using SST, remove the pulley.

SST 09213–60017
23. REMOVE NO. 1 TIMING BELT COVER

Remove the four bolts, timing belt cover and gasket.
24. REMOVE TIMING BELT GUIDE

EM–39
25. REMOVE TIMING BELT

HINT (Re–using timing belt): If the installation marks have
disappeared, place new installation mark on the timing belt
to match the drilled mark of the crankshaft timing pulley.
26. REMOVE NO. 1 IDLER PULLEY

Using a 8 mm hexagon wrench, remove the bolt, idler pulley
and plate washer.
27. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT TIMING PULLEY

If the pulley cannot be removed by hand, use two screwdriv-
ers.
HINT: Position shop rags as shown to prevent damage.
EM–40
INSPECTION OF TIMING BELT

COMPONENTS
1. INSPECT TIMING BELT
NOTICE:
• Do not bend, twist or turn the timing belt inside out.
• Do not allow the timing belt to come into contact
with oil, water or steam.
• Do not utilize timing belt tension when installing or removing
the mount bolt of the camshaft timing pulley.
If there are any defects as shown in the figures, check the
following points:
(a) Premature parting
• Check for proper installation.
• Check the timing cover gasket for damage and proper instal-
lation.
(b) If the belt teeth are cracked or damaged, check to see

if either camshaft is locked.
(c) If there are cracks or noticeable wear on the belt face,

check to see if there are nicks on the side of the idler
pulley lock and water pump.
(d) If there is wear or damage on only one side of the belt,

check the belt guide ’and the alignment of each
pulley.
EM–41
(e) If there is noticeable wear on the belt teeth, check tim-

ing cover for damage and check for correct gasket
installation. Check for foreign material on the pulley
teeth.
If necessary, replace the timing belt.
2. INSPECT IDLER PULLEYS

Check the turning smoothness of the idler pulley.
If necessary, replace the idler pulley.
3. INSPECT TIMING BELT TENSIONER

(a) Visually check tensioner for oil leakage.
HINT: If there is only the faintest trace of oil on the seal on
the push rod side, the tensioner is all right.
If leakage is found, replace the tensioner.
(b) Hold the tensioner with both hands and push the push
rod strongly against the floor or wall to check that it
doesn’t move.
If the push rod moves, replace the tensioner.
(c) Measure the protrusion of the push rod from the hous-
ing end.
Protrusion: 10.5 – 11.5 mm (0.413 – 0.453 in.)
If the protrusion is not as specified, replace the ten-
sioner.
EM–42
INSTALLATION OF TIMING BELT

(See page EM–34)
1. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT TIMING PULLEY
(a) Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the timing
pulley.
(b) Slide the timing pulley, facing the flange side inward.
2. INSTALL NO–1 IDLER PULLEY

(a) Apply adhesive to two or three threads of the mount bolt end.
Adhesive: Part No. 08833–00080, THREE BOND
1344, LOCTITE 242 or equivalent
(b) Using a 8 mm hexagon wrench, install the idler pulley with
the plate washer and bolt. Torque the bolt.
(c) Check that the pulley bracket moves smoothly.
3. TEMPORARILY INSTALL TIMING BELT

NOTICE: The engine should be cold.
(a) Remove any oil or water on the crankshaft timing,
No.1 idler and water pump pulleys, and keep them clean.
(b) Align the installation mark on the timing belt with the drilled
mark of the crankshaft timing pulley.
(c) Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, No.1
idler and water pump pulleys.
4. INSTALL TIMING BELT GUIDE

Install the belt guide, facing the cup side outward.

(a) Install the gasket to the tinning belt cover.
(b) Install the tinning belt cover with the four bolts.
EM–43
6. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

(a) Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the pulley,
slide the pulley.
(b) Using SST, install and torque the the bolt.
SST 09213–54014 (Body),
09213–70010 (90105–08076 (Bolt)) and
09330–00021
Torque: 2,500 kg–cm (181 ft–ib, 245 N–m)
7. INSTALL NO.2 IDLER PULLEY

(a) Install the idler pulley with the bolt. Torque the bolt.
(b) Check that the idler pulley moves smoothly.
8. INSTALL LH CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY

(a) Slide the timing pulley, facing the flange side outward.
(b) Align the knock pin hole of the camshaft with the knock pin
groove of the timing pulley, and install the knock pin.
(c) Using SST, install and torque the bolt.
SST 09278–54012
Torque: 1,100 kg–cm (80 ft–lb, 108 N–m)

(a) (Crankshaft Position)
Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align the its groove with the
”0” timing mark of the No.1 timing belt cover.
(b) (RH Camshaft Pulley Position)

Turn the camshaft, align the knock pin hole of the
camshaft with the timing mark of the No.3 timing belt
cover.
(c) (LH Camshaft Pulley Position)
Turn the camshaft timing pulley, align the timing
marks of the camshaft timing pulley and No.3 timing
belt cover.
EM–44
10. INSTALL TIMING BELT TO LH CAMSHAFT TIMING

PULLEY
(a) Check that the installation mark on the timing belt
matches the end of the No.1 timing belt cover–.
If the installation mark do not align, shift the meshing of the
timing belt and crankshaft timing pulley until they align.
(b) Remove any oil or water on the LH camshaft timing

pulley, and keep it clean.
(c) Using SST, slightly turn the LH camshaft timing pulley
clockwise. Align the installation mark on the timing
belt with the timing mark of the camshaft timing
pulley, and hang the timing belt on the LH
camshaft timing pulley.
SST 09278–54012
(d) Using SST, align the timing marks of the LH

camshaft pulley and No.3 timing belt cover.
SST 09278–54012
(e) Check that the timing belt has tension between the
crankshaft timing and LH camshaft timing pulleys.
11. INSTALL RH CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY AND

TIMING BELT
(a) Remove any oil or water on the RH camshaft timing and
No–2 idler pulleys, and keep them clean.
(b) Align the installation mark on the timing belt with the timing
mark of the RH camshaft timing pulley.
(c) Hang the timing belt on the RH camshaft timing pulley, fac-
ing the flange side inward.
(d) Align the timing .marks of the RH camshaft timing

pulley and No.3 timing belt cover.
(e) Slide the RH camshaft timing pulley on the camshaft.
EM–45
(f) Using SST, align the knock pin hole of the camshaft with
the knock pin groove of the pulley and install the
knock pin.
SST 09278–54012
(g) Using SST, install and torque the bolt.

SST09249–63010 and 09278–54012
HINT: Use a torque wrench with a fulcrum length of 340
mm (13.39 in.).
12. SET TIMING BELT TENSIONER

(a) Place a plate washer between the tensioner and a block.
(b) Using a press, slowly press in the push rod using 100
– 1,000 kg (220 – 2,205 ib, 981 – 9,807 N) of pressure.
(c) Align the holes of the push rod and housing, pass a
1.27 mm hexagon wrench (sized 1.27 mm) through the
holes to keep the setting position of the push rod.
(d) Release the press.
(e) Install the dust boot to the tensioner.
13. INSTALL TIMING BELT TENSIONER

(a) Install the tensioner with the two bolts.
EM–46
(b) Remove the 1.27 mm hexagon wrench (sized 1.27

mm) from the tensioner.
14. CHECK VALVE TIMING

(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley two revolutions from TDC
to TDC.
HINT: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.
(b) Check that each pulley aligns with the timing marks as
shown in the figure.
If the marks do not align, remove the timing belt and
reinstall it.
15. INSTALL ENGINE RH MOUNTING BRACKET

Install the mounting bracket with the three bolt.

(a) Install the gasket to the timing belt cover.
(b) Install the timing belt cover with the eight bolts.
HINT: Use the bolts indicated by A, B and C.
17. INSTALL SPARK PLUGS (See page IG–11 )
Torque: 180 k9–cm (13 ft–Ib, 18 N–m)
EM–47
18. INSTALL ENGINE RH MOUNTING INSULATOR

(a) Attach the mounting insulator to the mounting bracket and
body, and temporarily install the mounting insulator bolt,
four nuts and the mounting stay bolt (A).
(b) Torque the mounting insulator bolt and four nuts. Do not
torque the mounting stay bolt (A) yet.
Torque:
Bolt 650 kg–cm (47 ft–Ib, 64 N–m)
Nut To bracket 530 kg–cm (38 ft–lb, 52 N–m)
To body 900 kg–cm (65 ft–lb, 88 N–m)
(c) (w/ A.B.S..)
Install the two clamp bolts of the PS oil cooler pipes.
19. LOWER ENGINE
20. INSTALL ENGINE RH MOUNTING STAYS

(a) Install the No–1 mounting stay with the three bolts.
Torque the bolts.
(b) Install the No.2 mounting stay with the bolt and nut.
Torque the bolt and nut.
Torque:
21. INSTALL PS PUMP DRIVE BELT
Adjust the drive belt.
Drive belt tension: New belt 125 ± 20 Ib
22. INSTALL ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT
Adjust the drive belt. (See page CH–3)
23. INSTALL RH FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL
25. INSTALL PS OIL RESERVOIR TANK
INSTALL CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR AND
VACUUM PUMP (See step 27 on page EM–173)
BATTERY
EM–48
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Cylinder Head (3S–FE)
CYLINDER HEAD (3S–FE)

COMPONENTS
EM–49
REMOVAL OF CYLINDER HEAD

(See page EM–48)
OF BATTERY
2. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT (See page CO–4)
3. (A/T)
DISCONNECT THROTTLE CABLE AND BRACKET FROM
THROTTLE BODY
4. DISCONNECT ACCELERATOR CABLE AND BRACKET
FROM THROTTLE BODY AND AIR INTAKE CHAMBER
5. REMOVE CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
6. REMOVE AIR CLEANER HOSE
8. REMOVE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH, ENGINE HANGERS
AND ALTERNATOR UPPER BRACKET
9. RAISE VEHICLE
NOTICE: Be sure the vehicle is securely supported.
10. REMOVE RH FRONT WHEEL
12. REMOVE SUSPENSION LOWER CROSSMEMBER
13. DISCONNECT FRONT EXHAUST PIPE FROM
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
14. REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND CATALYTIC
CONVERTER ASSEMBLY
(a) Disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s).
(b) Remove the six bolts and manifold upper heat insulator.
(c) Remove the two–bolts, two nuts and catalytic converter

stay.
EM–50
(d) Remove the six nuts, the exhaust manifold and catalytic
converter assembly.
15. SEPARATE EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND CATALYTIC

CONVERTER
Remove the following parts:
(1) Five bolts
(2) Manifold lower heat insulator
(3) Eight bolts
(4) Two catalytic converter heat insulators
(5) Three bolts and two nuts

(6) Exhaust manifold
(7) Gasket
(8) Retainer
(9) Cushion
(10) Catalytic converter
16. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR (Seepage IG–13)
17. REMOVE WATER OUTLET

(a) Disconnect the following connectors and hoses:
(1) Water temperature sender gauge connector
(2) Water temperature sensor connector
(3) Cold start injector time switch connector
(4) Radiator upper hose
(5) Water hoses
(6) Emission control vacuum hoses
(b) Remove the two bolts, water outlet and gasket.
18. REMOVE WATER BY–PASS PIPE
(a) Disconnect the water hoses.
(b) Remove the two bolts, two nuts, water by–pass pipe, gasket
and O–ring.
EM–51
19. REMOVE EGR VALVE AND MODULATOR

(a) Remove the vacuum hoses.
(b) Loosen the union nut of the EGR pipe, and remove two
bolts, EGR modulator and gasket.
(c) Remove the bolt and EGR valve.
20. REMOVE THROTTLE BODY

(See steps 5 to 7 on page FI–107)
21. REMOVE COLD START INJECTOR PIPE
(See step 3 on page FI–78)
22. REMOVE AIR TUBE

(a) Disconnect the following air hoses:
(1) Air intake chamber air hose
(2) Throttle body air hose
(3) (w/ PS)
PS pump air hoses
(b) Remove the two bolts and air tube.
23. REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD

(a) Remove the two bolts and manifold stay.
(b) Disconnect the vacuum sensing hose.

(c) Remove the six bolts, two nuts, intake manifold and
gasket.
EM–52
24. REMOVE DELIVERY PIPE AND INJECTORS

(See steps 3 and 7 on page FI–89)
26. REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY
(See steps 2 to 14 on pages EM–23 and 25)
27. REMOVE NO. 1 IDLER PULLEY AND TENSION SPRING
28. REMOVE NO. 3 TIMING BELT COVER

Remove the four bolts and belt cover.
HINT:
• Support the belt so the meshing of the crankshaft timing
pulley and timing belt does not shift.
• Be careful not to drop anything inside the timing belt cover.
• Do not allow the belt to come into contact with oil, water or
dust.
29. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER

Remove the four nuts, grommets, head cover and gasket.
HINT: Arrange the grommets in correct order, so that they
can be reinstalled into their original positions. This minimizes
any possibility of oil leakage due to reuse of grommets.
30. REMOVE CAMSHAFTS

HINT: Since the thrust clearance of the camshaft is small, the
camshaft must be held level while it is being removed.
If the camshaft is not kept level, the portion of the cylinder
head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or be damaged,
causing the camshaft to seize or break. To avoid this, the fol-
lowing steps should be carried out.
A. Remove exhaust camshaft

(a) Set the knock pin of the intake camshaft at 10 – 450
BTDC of camshaft angle.
HINT: The above angle helps to lift the exhaust camshaft level
and evenly by pushing No. 2 and No. 4 cylinder cam lobes of
the exhaust camshaft to their valve lifters.
EM–53
(b) Secure the exhaust camshaft sub–gear to main gear

with a service bolt.
Recommended service bolt:
Thread diameter6 mm
Thread pitch 1.0 mm
Bolt length 16 – 20 mm (O.63 – 0.79 in.)
HINT: When removing the camshaft, make certain that
the torsional spring force of the sub–gear has been elimi-
nated by the above operation.
(c) Remove rear bearing cap bolts 1 and 2.
(d) Remove the rear bearing cap.
(e) Uniformly loosen and remove bearing cap bolts 3 to 8

in several passes in the sequence shown.
HINT: Do not remove the No. 3 bearing cap bolts at this
stage.
(f) Remove the No. 1, No. 2 and No. 4 bearing cap.
Alternately loosen and remove No. 3 bearing cap bolts 9

and 10.
HINT:
• As bearing cap bolts 9 and 10 are loosened, check that the
camshaft is being lifted out straight and level.
• If the camshaft is not being lifted out straight and level, tighten
bearing cap bolts 9 and 10. Then reverse the order of above
steps from (f) to (a) and reset the knock pin of the intake cam-
shaft at 10 – 45° BTDC, and repeat the steps from (b) and (g)
once again.
NOTICE: Do not pry on or attempt to force the camshaft
with a tool or other object.
(h) Remove the No. 3 bearing cap and exhaust camshaft.
B. Remove intake camshaft
(a) Set the knock pin of the intake camshaft at 80 – 115°
BTDC of camshaft angle.
NOTE: The above angle allows No. 1 and No. 3 cylinder
cam lobes of the intake camshaft to push their valve lifters
evenly.
EM–54
(b) Remove the front bearing cap bolts i and 2.

(e) Remove the front bearing cap and oil seal.
NOTICE: If the front bearing cap is not removable by
hand, do not try to remove by force but leave as it is
without bolts.
(d) Uniformly loosen and remove bearing cap bolts 3 to 8

in several pass in the sequence shown.
HINT: Do not remove the No. 2 bearing cap bolts at this
stage.
(e) Remove the No. 1, No. 3 and No. 4 bearing caps.
(f) Alternately loosen and remove No. 2 bearing cap bolts 9

and 10.
HINT:
• As bearing cap bolts 9 and 10 are loosened, check that the
camshaft is being lifted out straight and level, after breaking
adhesion on the front bearing cap.
• If the camshaft is not being lifted out straight and level, re-
tighten bearing cap bolts 9 and 10. Reverse the order of
above steps from (f) to (a) and reset the knock pin of the in-
take camshaft at 80 – 115° BTDC, and repeat steps from (b)
to (f) once again.
NOTICE: Do not pry on or attempt to force the camshaft
with a tool or other object.
(g) Remove the No. 2 bearing cap and camshaft.
31. DISASSEMBLE EXHAUST CAMSHAFT
(a) Mount the hexagonal wrench head portion of the camshaft
in a vise.
(b) Insert service bolt (A) into the service hole of the cam-
shaft sub–gear.
(c) Using a screwdriver, turn the sub–gear clockwise, and
remove the service bolt (B).
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the camshaft.
EM–55
(d) Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring.
(e) Remove the following parts:

(1) Wave washer
(2) Camshaft sub–gear
(3) Camshaft gear spring
32. IF NECESSARY, REMOVE SPARK PLUG TUBES
Using a pipe wrench, remove the four spark tubes.
33. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD

(a) Using SST, uniformly loosen and remove the ten cylinder
head bolts in several passes in the sequence shown.
SST 09043–88010
NOTICE: Head warpage or cracking could result from remov-
ing bolts in incorrect order.
(b) Lift the cylinder head from the dowels on the cylinder block and
place the head on wooden blocks on a bench.
HINT: If the cylinder head is difficult to lift off, pry with a screw-
driver between the cylinder head and block saliences.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the cylinder head and cylin-
der block surfaces of cylinder head gasket side.
EM–56
DISASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER HEAD

(See page EM–47)
1. REMOVE VALVE LIFTERS AND SHIMS
HINT: Arrange the valve lifters and shims in correct or-

der.
2. REMOVE VALVES
(a) Using SST, compress the valve spring and remove the two
keepers.
SST 09202–70010
(b) Remove the spring retainer, valve spring, valve and spring
seat.
HINT: Arrange the valves, valve springs, spring seats

and spring retainers in correct order.
(c) Using needle–nose pliers, remove the oil seal.

EM–57
INSPECTION, CLEANING AND REPAIR OF

CYLINDER HEAD COMPONENTS
1. CLEAN TOP OF PISTONS AND TOP OF BLOCK
(a) Turn the crankshaft and bring each piston to top dead center (TDC).
Using a gasket scraper, remove all the carbon from the piston top.
(b) Remove all the gasket material from the top of the cylinder block.
(e) Using compressed air, blow carbon and oil from the bolt holes.
CAUTION: Protect your eyes when using high pressure air.
2. REMOVE GASKET MATERIAL

Using a gasket scraper, remove all the gasket material from
the manifold and cylinder head surface.
NOTICE: Be careful not to scratch the surfaces.
3. CLEAN COMBUSTION CHAMBERS

Using a soft brush, remove all the carbon from the combus-
tion chambers.
NOTICE: Be careful not to scratch the head gasket contact
surface.
4. CLEAN VALVE GUIDE BUSHINGS

Using a valve guide bushing brush and solvent, clean all the
guide bushings.
5. CLEAN CYLINDER HEAD

Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean cylinder
head.
EM–58
6. INSPECT CYLINDER HEAD FOR FLATNESS

Using a precision straight edge and feeler gauge, measure
the surfaces contacting the cylinder block manifolds for
warpage.
Maximum warpage:
Cylinder block side 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)
Manifold side 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)
If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the cylinder head.
7. INSPECT CYLINDER HEAD FOR CRACKS

Using a dye penetrant, check the combustion chamber, in-
take and exhaust ports, head surface and the top of the
head for cracks.
If cracked, replace the cylinder head.
8. CLEAN VALVES
(a) Using a gasket scraper, chip off any carbon from the valve
head.
(b) Using a wire brush, thoroughly clean the valve.
9. INSPECT VALVE STEMS AND GUIDE BUSHINGS

(a) Using a caliper gauge, measure the inside diameter of
the guide bushing.
Bushing inside diameter:
6.010 – 6.030 mm (0.2366 – 4.2374 in.)
EM–59
(b) Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the valve

stem.
Valve stem diameter:
Intake 5.970 – 5.985mm
(0.2350 – 0.2356 in.)
Exhaust 5.965 – 5.980 mm
(0.2348 – 0.2354 in.)
(c) Subtract the valve stem diameter measurement from
the guide bushing inside diameter measurement.
Standard oil clearance:
Intake 0.025 – 0.060 mm
(0.0010 – 0.0024 in.)
Exhaust 0.030 – 0.065 mm
(0.0012 – 0.0026 in.)
Maximum oil clearance:
Intake 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)
Exhaust 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
If the clearance is greater than maximum, replace the
valve and guide bushing.
10. IF NECESSARY, REPLACE VALVE GUIDE BUSHINGS

(a) Gradually heat the cylinder head to 80 –100°C (176–
212°F).
(b) Using SST and a hammer, tap out the guide bushing.
SST 09201 –700 10
(c) Using a caliper gauge, measure the bushing bore di-

ameter of the cylinder head.
EM–60
(d) Select a new guide bushing (STD size or 0/S 0.05).

If the bushing bore diameter of the cylinder head is
greater than 11.027 mm (0.4341 in.), machine the
bushing bore to the following dimension:
Rebored cylinder head bushing bore dimension:
11. 050 – 11.077 mm (0.4350 – 0.4361 in.)
If the bushing bore diameter of the cylinder head is
greater than 11.077 mm (0.4361 in.), replace the cylin-
der head.
(e) Gradually heat the cylinder head to 80 100°C (176 –
212°F).
(f) Using SST and a hammer, tap in a newguide bushing
to where there is 8.2 – 8.6 mm (0.303 0.339 in.)
protruding from the cylinder head.
SST 09201–70010
Using a sharp 8 mm reamer, ream the guide bushing to

obtain the standard specified clearance (See page
EM–58) between the guide bushing and valve stem.
11. INSPECT AND GRIND VALVES

(a) Grind the valve enough to remove pits and carbon.
(b) Check that the valve is ground to the correct valve face
angle.
Valve face angle: 44.5°
(c) Check the valve head margin thickness.

Standard margin thickness: 0.8 –1.2 mm
(0.031 0.047 in.)
Minimum margin thickness: 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
If the margin thickness is less than minimum, replace
the valve.
EM–61
(d) Check the valve overall length.

Standard overall length:
Intake 100.60 mm (3.9606 in.)
Exhaust 100.45 mm (3.9547 in.)
Minimum overall length:
Intake 100.1 mm (3.941 in.)
Exhaust 100.0 mm (3.937 in.)
If the overall length is less than minimum, replace the
valve.
(e) Check the surface of the valve stem tip for wear.
If the valve stem tip is worn, resurface the tip with a
grinder or replace the valve.
NOTICE: Do not grind off more than the minimum.
12. INSPECT AND CLEAN VALVE SEATS

(a) Using a 45° carbide cutter, resurface the valve seats.
Remove only enough metal to clean the seats.
(b) Check the valve seating position.

Apply a thin coat of Prussian blue (or white lead) to the
valve face. Lightly press the valve against the seat. Do
not rotate the valve.
(c) Check the valve face and seat for the following:
• If blue appears 360° around the face, the valve is con-
centric. If not, replace the valve.
• If blue appears 360° around the valve seat, the guide
and are concentric. If not, resurface the seat.
• Check that the seat contact is in the middle of the valve
face with the following width:
1.0 – 1.4 mm (0.039 – 0.055 in.)
EM–62
If not, correct the valve seats as follows:

(1) If the seating is too high on the valve face, use 30°
and 45° cutters to correct the seat.
(2) If the seating is too low on the valve face, use 75°
and 45° cutters to correct the seat.
(d) Hand–lap the valve and valve seat with an abrasive

compound.
(e) After hand–lapping, clean the valve and valve seat.
13. INSPECT VALVE SPRINGS

(a) Using a steel square, measure the squareness of the valve
spring.
Maximum squareness: 2.0 mm (0.075 in.)
If squareness is greater than maximum, replace the valve
spring.
(b) Using calipers, measure the free length of the valve

spring.
If the free length is not as specified, replace the valve
spring.
EM–63
(c) Using a spring tester, measure the tension of the valve

spring at the specified installed length.
Installed tension:
16.7 19.3 kg (36.8 42.5 Ib, 164 189 N )
at 34.7 mm (0.000 in.)
If the installed tension is not as specified, replace the
valve spring.
14. INSPECT CAMSHAFTS AND BEARINGS

A. Inspect camshaft for runout
(a) Place the camshaft on V–blocks.
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the circle runout at the center
journal.
Maximum circle runout: 0.04 mm (0.0016 in.)
If the circle runout is greater than maximum, replace the cam-
shaft.
B. Inspect cam lobes

Using a micrometer, measure the cam lobe height.
Standard cam lobe height:
Intake 34.910 – 35 .010 mm
(1.3744 – 1.3783 in.)
Exhaust 35.560 – 35.660 mm
(1.4000 – 1.4039 in.)
Minimum cam lobe height:
Intake 34.80 mm (1.3701 in.)
Exhaust 35.45 mm (1 .3957 in.)
If the cam lobe height is greater than maximum, replace the
camshaft.
C. Inspect camshaft journals
Using a micrometer, measure the journal diameter.
Journal diameter: 26.959 – 26.975 mm
0.0614 – 1.0620 in.)
If the journal diameter is not as specified, check the oil clear-
ance.
D. Inspect camshaft bearings

Check the bearings for flaking and scoring.
If the bearings are damaged, replace the bearing caps and
cylinder head as a set.
EM–64
E. Inspect camshaft gear spring

Using calipers, measure the free distance between the
spring end.
Free distance: 22.5 – 22.9 mm (0.886 – 0.902 in.)
If the free distance is not as specified, replace the gear
spring.
F. Inspect camshaft journal oil clearance

(a) Clean the bearing caps and camshaft journals.
(b) Place the camshafts on the cylinder head.
(c) Lay a strip of Plastigage across each of the camshaft jour-
nals.
(d) Install the bearing caps.
(See step 4 on pages EM–68 and 69)
Torque: 190 kg–cm (14 ft–Ib, 19 N–m )
HINT: Do not turn the camshaft.
(e) Remove the bearing caps.
(f) Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.
Standard oil clearance: 0.025 – 0.062
(0.0010 – 0.0024 in.)
Maximum oil clearance 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the cam-
shaft. If necessary, replace the bearing caps and cylinder
head as a set.
(g) Completely remove the Plastigage.
G. Inspect camshaft thrust clearance
(a) Install the camshafts.
(See step 4 on pages EM–67 and 69)
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while
moving the camshaft back and forth.
Standard thrust clearance:
Intake 0.045 – 0.100 mm
(0.0018 – 0.0039 in.)
Exhaust 0.030 – 0.085 mm
(0.0012 – 0.0033 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance:
Intake 0.12 mm (0.0047 in.)
Exhaust 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, replace the
camshaft. If necessary, replace the bearing caps and cylin-
der head as a set.
EM–65
H. Inspect camshaft gear backlash

(a) Install the camshafts without installing the exhaust cam
sub–gear.
(See step 4 o n page EM–68 to 70)
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the backlash.
Standard backlash: 0.020 – 0.200 mm
(0.0008 – 0.0079 in.)
Maximum backlash 0.30 mm (0.0188 in.)
If the backlash is greater than maximum, replace the cam-
shafts.
15. INSPECT VALVE LIFTERS AND LIFTER BORES
(a) Using a micrometer, measure the lifter diameter.
Lifter diameter: 27.975 – 27.985 mm
(1.1014 – 1.1018 in.)
(b) Using a caliper gauge, measure the lifter bore diameter

of the cylinder head.
Lifter bore diameter: 28.000 – 28.021 mm
(1.1024 – 1.1032 in.)
(c) Subtract the lifter diameter measurement from the lifter

bore diameter measurement.
Standard oil clearance: 0.015 – 0.046 mm
(0.0005 – 0.0018 in.)
Maximum oil clearance: 0.07 mm (0.0028 in.)
If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the
lifter. If necessary, replace the cylinder head.
16. INSPECT INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS

the surface contacting the cylinder head for warpage.
Maximum warpage: 0.30 mm (0.0118 in.)
If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the manifold.
EM–66
ASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER HEAD

(See page EM–48)
HINT:
• Thoroughly clean all parts to be assembled.
• Before installing the parts, apply new engine oil to all
sliding and rotating surfaces.
• Replace all gaskets and oil seals with new ones.
1. INSTALL VALVES
HINT: The intake valve oil seal is brown and the exhaust
valve oil seal is black.
(a) Install the following parts:
(1) Oil seal
(2) Valve
(3) Spring seat
(4) Valve spring
(5) Spring retainer
(b) Using SST, compress the valve spring and place the
two keepers around the valve stem.
SST 09202–70010
(c) Using a plastic–faced hammer, lightly tap the valve

stem tip to assure proper fit.
2. INSTALL VALVE LIFTERS AND SHIMS

(a) Install the valve lifter and shim.
(b) Check the valve lifter rotates smoothly by hand.
EM–67
INSTALLATION OF CYLINDER HEAD

(See page EM–48)
1. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD

A. Place cylinder head on cylinder block
(a) Place a new cylinder head gasket in position on the cylinder
block.
NOTICE: Be careful of the installation direction.
(b) Place the cylinder head in position on the cylinder head gas-
ket.
B. Install cylinder head bolts
HINT:
• The cylinder head bolts are tightened in two progressive
steps (steps (b) and (d)).
• If any cylinder head bolt is broken or deformed, replace it.
(a) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the
heads of the cylinder head bolts.
(b) First, using SST, install and uniformly tighten the ten cylinder
head bolts in several passes in the sequence shown.
SST 09011–38121
If any one of the cylinder head bolts does not meet the
torque specification, replace the cylinder head bolt.
(c) Mark the front of the cylinder head bolt head with
paint. .
(d) 2nd, retighten the cylinder head bolts 90° in the numeri-
cal order shown.
(e) Check that the painted mark is now at a 90° angle to
front.
EM–68
2. INSTALL SPARK PLUG TUBES

(a) Clean the cylinder head tube holes of any residual adhesive, oil
foreign particles. Remove any oil with kerosene or gasoline.
(b) Screw the threads of the spark plug tube coated with adhesive
into the cylinder head.
(c) Install the spark plug tube nut and using a 30 mm socket
wrench, torque the nuts.
3. ASSEMBLE EXHAUST CAMSHAFT

in a vice.
(b) Install the following parts:
(3) Wave washer
(c) Using snap ring pliers, install the snap ring.
(d) Insert a service bolt (A) into the service hole of the camshaft
sub–gear.
(e) Using a screwdriver, align the holes of the camshaft main
gear and sub–gear by turning camshaft sub–gear clock-
wise, and install a service bolt (B).
NOTICE: Be careful not damage the camshaft.
4. INSTALL CAMSHAFTS
HINT: Since the thrust clearance of the camshaft is small,
the camshaft must be held level while it is being installed.
If the camshaft is not kept level, the portion of the cylinder
head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or be damaged,
causing the camshaft to seize or break. To avoid this, the
following steps should be carried out.
A. Install intake camshaft
(a) Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the camshaft.
(b) Place the intake camshaft at 80° BTDC of camshaft angle
on the cylinder head.
EM–69
(c) Apply seal packing to the front bearing cap as shown.

Seal packing: Part No. 08826–00080 or equivalent
(d) Install the bearing caps in their proper locations.
(e) Apply alight coat of engine oil on the threads and under
the heads of the bearing cap bolts.
(f) Install and uniformly tighten the ten bearing cap bolts in
several passes in the sequence shown.
(g) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(h) Using SST, tap in the oil seal.

SST 09223–46011
EM–70
B. Install exhaust camshaft

(a) Set the knock pin of the intake camshaft at 100 BTDC of
camshaft angle.
(b) Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the camshaft.

(c) Engage the exhaust camshaft gear gear to the intake
camshaft gear by matching the timing marks on each
gear.
(d) Roll down the exhaust camshaft onto the bearing jour-
nals while engaging gears with each other.
NOTICE: There are also assembly reference marks on
each gear as shown in the illustration. Do not use
these
marks.
(e) Turn the intake camshaft clockwise or counterclock-
wise little by little until the exhaust camshaft sits in the
bearing journals evenly without rocking the camshaft
on the bearing journals.
NOTICE: This is very important to replace the camshaft
in the bearing journals evenly while tightening bearing
caps in the subsequent steps.
(f) Install the bearing caps in their proper location.
(g) Apply alight coat of engine oil on the threads and under
the heads of bearing cap bolts.
(h) Install and uniformly tighten the ten bearing cap bolts
(i) Remove the service bolt (8).
5. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER

(a) Apply seal packing to the cylinder head as shown in the fig-
ure.
Seal packing: Part No.08826–00080 or equivalent
EM–71
(b) Install the gasket to the head cover.

(c) Install the head cover with the four grommets and nuts.
HINT: Install the grommets so that it’s markings are as
shown in the illustration. Then install the grommet to its
original position.
6. INSTALL N0.3 TIMING BELT COVER

Install the timing belt cover with the four bolts.
7. INSTALL NO.1 IDLER PULLEY AND TENSION SPRING
8. INSTALL CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY
(See steps 9 to 13 on pages EM–30 to 32)
10. INSTALL INJECTOR AND DELIVERY PIPE
(See steps 1 and 5 on pages FI–91 to 92)
11. INSTALL INTAKE MANIFOLD
(a) Install a new gasket and the intake manifold with the six bolts
and two nuts.
(b) Install the two manifold stay with the four bolts.
Torque:
12 mm bolt head 195 kg–cm (14 ft–I b, 19 N–m)
14 mm bolt head 425 kg–cm (31 ft–lb, 42 N–m)
(c) Connect the vacuum sensing hose.
12. INSTALL AIR TUBE

(a) Install the air tube with the two bolts.
lbf Connect the following air hoses:
(1) Air intake chamber air hose
(2) Throttle body air hose
(3) (w/ PS)
PS pump air hose
13. INSTALL COLD START INJECTOR PIPE
14. INSTALL THROTTLE BODY
EM–72
15. INSTALL EGR VALVE AND MODULATOR

(a) Install the EGR modulator with the bolt.
(b) Install a new gasket and the EGR valve with the union nut
and two bolts.
Torque:
Union nut 600 kg–cm (43 ft–Ib, 59 N–m)
Bolt and nut 130 kg–cm (9 fit–Ib, 13 N–m)
(c) Install the vacuum hoses.
16. INSTALL WATER BY–PASS PIPE

(a) Install a new O–ring to the by–pass pipe.
(b) Apply a light of engine oil on the 0–ring.
(c) Install a new gasket and the by–pass pipe with the two nuts
and two bolts.
Torque(Nut): 95 kg–cm (82 in.–lb, 9.3 N–m)
(d) Connect the water hoses.
17. INSTALL WATER OUTLET

(a) Install a new gasket and the water outlet with the two bolts.
(b) Connect the following hoses and connectors:
(2) Water hose
(3) Emission control vacuum hoses
(4) Water temperature sender gauge connector
18. INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR
(See steps 1 and 4 on page IG–16)
19. ASSEMBLE EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND CATALYTIC
CONVERTER
Assemble the following parts:
(1) Catalytic converter
(2) Cushion
(3) Retainer
(4) New gasket
(5) Exhaust manifold
(6) Three bolts and two nuts
(7) Two catalytic converter heat insulators
(8) Eight bolts
(9) Manifold lower heat insulator
(10) Five bolts
EM–73
20. INSTALL EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND CATALYTIC

CONVERTER ASSEMBLY
(a) Install a gasket.
(b) Install the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter as-

sembly with new six nuts.
(c) Install the catalytic converter stay with the two bolts and
two nuts.
(d) Install the manifold lower heat insulator with the six
bolts.
(e) Connect the oxygen sensor connector(s).
21. CONNECT FRONT EXHAUST PIPE TO CATALYTIC

CONVERTER
22. INSTALL SUSPENSION LOWER CROSSMEMBER
25. LOWER VEHICLE
EM–74
26. INSTALL OIL PRESSURE SWITCH, ENGINE HANGERS
AND ALTERNATOR BRACKET
Torque the bolts.
28. INSTALL AIR CLEANER HOSE
30. INSTALL RADIATOR RESERVOIR TANK
31. INSTALL ACCELERATOR CABLE, AND ADJUST IT
32. (A/T)
CONNECT THROTTLE CABLE, AND ADJUST IT
33. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT (See page CO–5)
Capacity (w/ Heater):
M/T 6.4 liters (6.8 US qts, 5.6 Imp. qts)
A/T (2WD) 6.3 liters (6.7 US qts, 5.5 Imp. qts)
BATTERY
35. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS
36. PERFORM ENGINE ADJUSTMENT
(a) Adjust the valve clearance. (See page EM–11)
Intake 0.19 – 0.29 mm (0.007 – 0.011 in.)
Exhaust 0.28 – 0.38 mm (0.011 – 0.015 in.)
(b) Adjust the ignition timing.
(See steps 7 to 10 on pages IG–16 and 17)
Ignition timing:
10° BTDC @ idle
(w/ Terminals TE 1 and E 1 connected)
37. CHECK TOE–IN (See page FA–5)
38. PERFORM ROAD TEST
Check for abnormal noise, shock, slippage, correct shift
points and smooth operation.
39. RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL AND OIL LEVEL
EM–75
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Cylinder Heads (2VZ–FE)
CYLINDER HEADS (2VZ–FE)

COMPONENTS
EM–76
REMOVAL OF CYLINDER HEADS

(See page EM–75)
OF BATTERY
3. (A/T)
DISCONNECT THROTTLE CABLE FROM THROTTLE
BODY
4. DISCONNECT ACCELERATOR CABLE FROM
THROTTLE BODY
VACUUM PUMP (See step 74 on page EM–140)
6. REMOVE AIR CLEANER HOSE
(a) Disconnect the following hoses:
(1) RSC valve air hose
(2) Vacuum pipe hose
(b) Remove the air cleaner hose.
7. RAISE VEHICLE
10. REMOVE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE
12. REMOVE ISC VALVE
(See steps 2 to 4 on pages Fl–118 and 119)
13. REMOVE THROTTLE BODY
14. REMOVE EGR PIPE
(a) Loosen the union nut.
(b) Remove the two bolts, EGR pipe and gasket.
15. REMOVE EGR VALVE– AND VACUUM MODULATOR
(a) Disconnect the four vacuum pipe hoses.
(b) Remove the two bolts, two nuts, the EGR valve, vacuum
modulator assembly and gasket.
EM–77
16. REMOVE VACUUM PIPE

(1) Four– BVSV vacuum hoses
(2) Fuel pressure control VSV hose
(3) A/C control valve vacuum hose
(b) Remove the two bolts and vacuum pipe.
17. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR (See page IG–18)
18. REMOVE EXHAUST CROSSOVER PIPE

Remove the six nuts, two bolts, crossover pipe and two gas-
kets.
19. DISCONNECT COLD START INJECTOR CONNECTOR
20. REMOVE COLD START INJECTOR TUBE
21. REMOVE AIR INTAKE CHAMBER

(1) PCV hose
(2) Vacuum sensing hose
(3) Fuel pressure control VSV
(4) (Calif. only)
EGR gas temperature sensor connector
(b) Remove the four bolts and two intake chamber stays.
(c) Remove the two bolts, two nuts, intake chamber and two
gaskets.
22. REMOVE DELIVERY PIPES AND INJECTORS
(See steps 15 to 19 on pages FI–95 and 96)
23. REMOVE WATER OUTLET

(a) Disconnect the following connector and hose:
(b) Remove the three nuts, water outlet and gasket.
EM–78
24. REMOVE WATER BY–PASS OUTLET

(a) Disconnect the following connectors and hose:
(3) Heater water by–pass hose
(b) Remove the three nuts, water by–pass outlet and gasket.
(c) Remove the two bolts and crossover pipe heat insulator
from the water by–pass outlet.
25. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD REAR PLATE
Remove the two bolts and rear plate.
26. REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD

(a) Remove the two bolts and No.2 idler pulley bracket stay.
(b) Remove the eight bolts, four nuts, intake manifold and
two gaskets.
27. REMOVE RH EXHAUST MANIFOLD

(a) Disconnect the oxygen sensor connector.
(b) Remove the three. nuts and outside heat insulator.
EM–79
(c) Remove the six nuts, exhaust manifold and gasket.
(d) Remove the bolt and inside heat insulator.
28. REMOVE LH EXHAUST MANIFOLD

(a) Remove the two nuts and heat insulator.
(b) Remove the six nuts, exhaust manifold and gasket.

30. REMOVE TIMING BELT, CAMSHAFT TIMING
PULLEYS AND No.2 IDLER PULLEY

Remove the six bolts and timing belt cover.
NOTICE:
• Support the belt so the meshing of the crankshaft
timing pulley and timing belt does not shift.
• Be careful not to drop anything inside the timing belt cover.
• Do not allow the belt to come into contact with oil, water or
dust.
EM–80
32. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVERS

Remove the six nuts, seal washers, cylinder head cover and
gasket. Remove the two cylinder head covers.
33. REMOVE SPARK PLUG TUBE GASKETS
Remove the six tube gaskets.
34. REMOVE CAMSHAFTS

NOTICE: Since the thrust clearance of the. camshaft is
small, the camshaft must be held level while it is being re-
moved. If the camshaft is not kept level, the portion of the
cylinder head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or be
damaged, causing the camshaft to seize or break. To avoid
this, the following steps should be carried out.
A. Remove exhaust camshaft of RH cylinder head

(a) Align the timing marks (two pointed marks) of the camshaft
drive and driven gears by turning the camshaft with a
wrench.
(b) Secure the exhaust camshaft sub–gear to the driven

gear with a service bolt.
Thread diameter 6 mm
Thread pitch 1.0 mm
Bolt length 16 – 20 mm (0.63 – 0.79 in.)
the torsional spring force of the sub–gear has been
eliminated by the above operation.
(c) Uniformly loosen and remove the eight bearing cap

bolts in several passes in the sequence shown.
(d) Remove the four bearing caps and exhaust camshaft.
EM–81
B. Remove intake camshaft of RH cylinder head

(a) Uniformly loosen and remove the ten bearing cap
(b) Remove the five bearing caps, oil seal and intake camshaft.
C. Remove exhaust camshaft of LH cylinder head

(a) Align the timing marks (one pointed mark) of the camshaft
drive and driven gears by turning the camshaft with a
wrench.
(b) Secure the exhaust camshaft sub–gear to the driven

gear with a service bolt.
Thread diameter 6 mm
Thread pitch 1.0 mm
Bolt length 16 – 20 mm (0.63 – 0.79 in.)
the torsional spring force of the sub–gear has been
eliminated by the above operation.
(c) Uniformly loosen and remove the eight bearing cap

(d) Remove the four bearing caps and exhaust camshaft.
D. Remove intake camshaft of LH cylinder head

(a) Uniformly loosen and remove the ten bearing cap
(b) Remove the five bearing caps, oil seal and intake camshaft.
EM–82
HINT: Arrange the bearing caps incorrect order.
35. DISASSEMBLE EXHAUST CAMSHAFTS

in a vise.
(b) Insert service bolt (A) into the service hole of the cam-
shaft sub–gear.
(c) Using a screwdriver, turn the sub–gear clockwise, and
remove the service bolt (B).
(d) Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring.
(e) Remove the following parts:

(1) Wave washer
HINT: Arrange the camshaft sub–gears and gear
springs (RH and LH).
EM–83
36. REMOVE CYLINDER HEADS

(a) Using a 8 mm hexagon wrench, remove the cylinder head
(recessed head) bolts.
(b) Uniformly loosen and remove the cylinder head (12–

sided) bolts in several passes in the sequence shown.
NOTICE: Head warpage or cracking could result from
removing bolts in incorrect order.
(c) Lift the cylinder head from the dowels on the cylinder
block and place the heads on wooden blocks on a
bench.
HINT:
• If the cylinder head is difficult to lift off, pry with a screw-
driver between the cylinder head and block.
• Arrange the RH and LH cylinder heads.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the cylinder head
and cylinder block surfaces of cylinder head gasket
side.
EM–84
DISASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER HEADS

(See page EM–75)
1 . REMOVE VALVE LIFTERS AND SHIMS
HINT: Arrange the valve lifters and shims in correct or-

der.
2. REMOVE VALVES
(a) Using SST, compress the valve spring and remove the two
keepers.
SST 09202–70010
(b) Remove the spring retainer, valve spring, valve and spring
seat.
HINT: Arrange the valves, valve springs, spring seats

and spring retainers in correct order.
(c) Using needle–nose pliers, remove the oil seal.

EM–85
INSPECTION, CLEANING AND REPAIR OF

CYLINDER HEAD COMPONENTS
1. CLEAN TOP OF PISTONS AND TOP OF BLOCK
(a) Turn the crankshaft and bring each piston to top dead center
(TDC). Using a gasket scraper, remove all the carbon from the
piston top.
(b) Remove all the gasket material from the top of the cylinder block.
(c) Using compressed air, blow carbon and oil from the bolt holes.
CAUTION: Protect your eyes when using high pressure
air.
Using a gasket scraper, remove all the gasket material from the
manifold and cylinder head surface.
NOTICE: Be careful not to scratch the surfaces.
3. CLEAN COMBUSTION CHAMBERS

Using a wire brush, remove all the carbon from the combus-
tion chambers.
NOTICE: Be careful not to scratch the head gasket contact
surface.
4. CLEAN VALVE GUIDE BUSHINGS

Using a valve guide bushing brush and solvent, clean all the
guide bushings.
5. CLEAN CYLINDER HEADS

Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean cylinder
heads.
EM–86
6. INSPECT CYLINDER HEADS FOR FLATNESS

Using a precision straight edge and thickness gauge, mea-
sure the surfaces contacting the cylinder block manifolds for
warpage.
If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the cylinder
head.
7. INSPECT CYLINDER HEAD FOR CRACKS

Using a dye penetrant, check the combustion chamber, in-
take and exhaust ports, head surface and the top of the
head for cracks:
If cracked, replace the cylinder head.
8. CLEAN VALVES
(a) Using a gasket scraper, chip off any carbon from the valve
head.
(b) Using a wire brush, thoroughly clean the valve.
9. INSPECT VALVE STEMS AND GUIDE BUSHINGS

(a) Using a caliper gauge, measure the inside diameter of the
guide bushing.
Bushing inside diameter:
6.010 – 6.030 mm (0.2366 – 0.2374 in.)
EM–87
(b) Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the valve

stem.
Valve stem diameter:
Intake 5.970 – 5.985 mm
(0.2350 – 0.2356 in.)
Exhaust 5.965 – 5.980 mm
(0.2348 – 0.2354 in.)
(c) Subtract the valve stem diameter measurement from
the guide bushing inside diameter measurement.
Intake 0.025 – 0.060 mm
(0.0010 – 0.0024 in.)
Exhaust 0.030 – 0.065 mm
(0.0012 – 0.0026 in.)
Maximum oil clearance:
Intake 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)
Exhaust 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
If the clearance is greater than maximum, replace the
valve and guide bushing.
10. IF NECESSARY, REPLACE VALVE GUIDE BUSHINGS

(a) Insert an old valve wrapped with tape into the valve
guide bushing, and break off the valve guide bushing by
hitting it with a hammer.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the valve lifter hole.
(b) Gradually heat the cylinder head to 80 –100°C (176

– 212°F).
(c) Using SST and a hammer, tap out the guide bushing.
SST 09201– 70010
EM–88
(d) Using a caliper gauge, measure the bushing bore di-

ameter of the cylinder head.
(e) Select a new guide bushing (STD size or O/S 0.05).

If the bushing bore diameter of the cylinder head is greater
than 11.027 mm (0.4341 in.), machine the bushing bore to
the following dimension:
Rebored cylinder head bushing bore dimension:
11.050 – 11.077 mm (0.4350 – 0.4361 in.)
If the bushing bore diameter of the cylinder head is greater
than 11.077 mm (0.4361 in.), replace the cylinder head.
(f) Gradually heat the cylinder head to 80 –100°C 076

– 212°F).
(g) Using SST and a hammer, tap in a new guide bushing
until the snap ring makes contact with the cylinder
head.
SST 09201–70010
(h) Using a sharp 6 mm reamer, ream the guide bushing

to obtain the standard specified clearance (See
page EM–86) between the guide bushing and valve
stem.
11. INSPECT AND GRIND VALVES

(a) Grind the valve enough to remove pits and carbon.
(b) Check that the valve is ground to the correct valve face
angle.
Valve face angle: 44.5°
EM–89
(c) Check the valve head margin thickness.

Standard margin thickness: 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)
Minimum margin thickness: 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
If the margin thickness is less than minimum, replace
the valve.
(d) Check the valve overall length.

Standard overall length:
Intake 96.1 mm (3.783 in.)
Exhaust 96.2 mm (3.787 in.)
Minimum overall length:
Intake 95.6 mm (3.754 in.)
Exhaust 95.7 mm (3.768 in.)
If the overall length is less than minimum, replace the
valve.
(e) Check the surface of the valve stem tip for wear.
If the valve stem tip is worn, resurface the tip with a
grinder or replace the valve.
NOTICE: Do not grind off more than the minimum.
12. INSPECT AND CLEAN VALVE SEATS

(a) Using a 45° carbide cutter, resurface the valve seats.
Remove only enough metal to clean the seats.
(b) Check the valve seating position.

Apply a thin coat of Prussian blue (or white lead) to the
valve face. Lightly press the valve against the seat. Do
not rotate the valve.
(c) Check the valve face and seat for the following:
• If blue appears 360° around the face, the valve is con-
centric. If not, replace the valve.
• If blue appears 360° around the valve seat, the guide
and face are concentric. If not, resurface the seat.
• Check that the seat contact is in the middle of the valve
face with the following width:
1.0 – 1.4 mm (0.039 – 0.055 in.)
EM–90
If not, correct the valve seats as follows:

111 If the seating is too high on the valve face, use
30° and 45° cutters to correct the seat.
(2) If the seating is too low on the valve face, use

60° and 45° cutters to correct the seat.
(d) Hand–lap the valve and valve seat with an abrasive

compound.
After hand–lapping, clean the valve and valve seat.
13. INSPECT VALVE SPRINGS

(a) Using a steel square, measure the squareness of the valve
spring.
Maximum squareness: 2.0 mm (0.075 in.)
if squareness is greater than maximum, replace the valve
spring.
(b) Using calipers, measure the free length of the valve

spring.
If the free length is not as specified, replace the valve
spring.
EM–91
(c) Using a spring tester, measure the tension of the valve

spring at the specified installed length.
Installed tension:
18.6 – 21.4 kg (41.0 – 47.2 1b, 182 – 210 N)
at 33.8 mm (1.331 in.)
If the installed tension is not as specified, replace the
valve spring.
14. INSPECT CAMSHAFTS AND BEARINGS

A. Inspect camshaft for runout
(a) Place the camshaft on V–blocks.
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the circle runout at the cen-
ter journal.
If the circle runout is greater than maximum, replace the
camshaft.
B. Inspect cam lobes

Using a micrometer, measure the cam lobe height.
Standard cam lobe height:
Intake 39.510 – 39.610 mm
(1.5555 – 1.5594 in.)
Exhaust 38.960 – 39.060 mm
(1.5339 – 1.5378 in.)
Minimum cam lobe height:
Intake 39.36 mm (1.5496 in.)
Exhaust 38.81 mm (1.5279 in.)
If the cam lobe height is greater than maximum, replace the
camshaft.
C. Inspect camshaft journals
Using a micrometer, measure the journal diameter.
Journal diameter: 26.949 – 26.965 mm
(1.0610 – 1.0616 in.)
If the journal diameter is not as specified, check the oil clear-
ance.
D. Inspect camshaft bearings

Check the bearings for flaking and scoring.
If the bearings are damaged, replace the bearing caps and
cylinder head as a set.
EM–92
E. Inspect camshaft gear spring

Using calipers, measure the free distance between the
spring end.
Free distance: 18.2 – 18.8 mm (0.712 – 0.740 in.)
If the free distance is not as specified, replace the gear
spring.
F. Inspect camshaft journal oil clearance

(a) Clean the bearing caps and camshaft journals.
(b) Place the camshafts on the cylinder head.
(c) Lay a strip of Plastigage across each of the camshaft jour-
nals.
(c) Install the bearing caps.

(See step 4 on pages EM–97 to 99)
Torque: 160 kg–cm (12 ft–1b, 16 N–m)
NOTICE: Do not turn the camshaft.
(e) Remove the bearing caps.

(f) Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.
Standard oil clearance: 0.035 – 0.072 mm.
(0.0014 – 0.0028 in.)
der head as a set.
(g) Completely remove the Plastigage.
G. Inspect camshaft thrust clearance
(a) Install the camshafts.
(See step 4 on pages EM–98)
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while
moving the camshaft back and forth.
Standard thrust clearance: 0.030 – 0.080 mm
(0.0012 – 0.0031 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance: 0.12 mm (0.0047 in.)
der head as a set.
EM–93
H. Inspect camshaft gear backlash

(a) Install the camshafts without installing the exhaust cam-
shaft sub–gear.
(See step 4 on pages EM–96 to 99)
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the backlash.
Standard backlash: 0.020 – 0.200 mm
(0.0008 – 0.0079 in.)
Maximum backlash: 0.30 mm (0.0188 in.)
If the backlash is greater than maximum, replace the cam-
shafts.
15. INSPECT VALVE LIFTERS AND LIFTER BORES
(a) Using a micrometer, measure the lifter diameter.
Lifter diameter: 27.975 – 27.985 mm
(1.1014 – 1.1018 in.)
(b) Using a caliper gauge, measure the lifter bore diameter of

the cylinder head.
Lifter bore diameter: 28.000 – 28.021 mm
(1.1024 – 1.1032 in.)
(c) Subtract the lifter diameter measurement from the lifter
bore diameter measurement.
(0.0005 – 0.0018 in.)
lifter. If necessary, replace the cylinder head.
16. INSPECT INTAKE, EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND AIR
INTAKE CHAMBER
the surface contacting the cylinder head, intake manifold or
air intake chamber for warpage.
Maximum warpage:
Intake manifold 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
Exhaust manifold 1.00 mm (0.0394 in.)
Air intake chamber 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the manifold.
EM–94
ASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER HEADS

(See page EM–75)
HINT:
• Replace all gaskets and oil seals with new ones.
1. INSTALL SPARK PLUG TUBES

HINT: When using a new cylinder head, spark plug tubes
must be installed.
Using a press, in a new spark plug tube until there is
45.5–45.9 mm (1.791–1.807 in.) protruding from the cam-
shaft bearing cap installation surface of the cylinder head.
NOTICE: Avoid. pressing a new spark plug tube in too far
by measuring the amount of protrusion while
pressing.
2. INSTALL VALVES
(a) Using SST, push in a new oil seal.
SST 09201–41020
(b) Install the following parts:

(1) Valve
(2) Spring seat
(3) Valve spring
(4) Spring retainer
(c) Using SST, compress the valve spring and place the
two keepers around the valve stem.
SST 09202–70010
EM–95
(c) Using a plastic–faced hammer, lightly tap the valve

stern tip to assure proper fit.
3. INSTALL VALVE LIFTERS AND SHIMS

Check the valve lifter rotates smoothly by hand.
EM–96
INSTALLATION OF CYLINDER HEADS

(See page EM–75)
1. INSTALL CYLINDER HEADS
A. Place cylinder head on cylinder block
(a) Place a new cylinder head gasket in position on the
cylinder block.
NOTICE: Be careful of the installation direction.
(b) Place the cylinder head in position on the cylinder head gas-
ket.
B. Install cylinder head (12–sided) bolts
HINT:
• The cylinder head bolts are tightened in three progres–
sive steps (steps (b), (d) and (e)).
• If any bolts is broken or deformed, replace them.
(b) Install and uniformly tighten the cylinder head bolts in
several passes in the sequence shown.
If any one of the bolts does not meet the torque specification,
replace the bolt.
(c) Mark the front of the cylinder head bolt head with paint.
(d) Retighten the cylinder head bolts 90° in the numerical

order shown.
(e) Retighten cylinder head bolts by an additional 90°.
(f) Check that the painted mark is now facing rearward.
EM–97
c. Install cylinder head (recessed head) bolts

(b) Using a 8 mm hexagon wrench, install the cylinder head
bolts.
2. INSTALL LH ENGINE HANGER
3. ASSEMBLE EXHAUST CAMSHAFTS

(a) Install the following parts:
(3) Wave washer
(b) Using snap ring pliers, install the snap ring.
(c) Mount the hexagonal wrench head portion of the cam-

shaft in a vise.
EM–98
(d) Insert a service bolt (A) into the service hole of the cam-
shaft sub–gear.
(e) Using a screwdriver, align the holes of the camshaft
driven gear and sub–gear by turning camshaft sub-
gear clockwise, and install a service bolt (B).
4. INSTALL CAMSHAFTS
NOTICE: Since the thrust clearance of the camshaft is
small, the camshaft must be held level white it is being
installed. If the camshaft is not level, the portion of the cyl-
inder head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or be
damaged, causing the camshaft to seize or break. To
avoid this, the following steps should be carried out.
A. Install intake camshaft of R H cylinder head

(b) Place the intake camshaft at 90° angle of timing mark
(two pointed marks) on the cylinder head.
(c) Apply seal packing to the No. 1 bearing cap as shown.

(d) Install the five bearing caps in their proper locations.

EM–99
(e) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under
(f) Install and uniformly tighten the ten bearing cap bolts
6. Install exhaust camshaft of RH cylinder head

(b) Align the timing marks (two pointed marks) of the camshaft
drive and driven gears.
(c) Place the exhaust camshaft on the cylinder head.
(d) Install the four bearing caps in their proper location.
(f) Install and uniformly tighten the eight bearing cap bolts
Torque: 16o kg–cm (12 ft–lb, 16 N–m)
(g) Remove the service bolt (6).
C. Install intake camshaft of LH cylinder head

(b) Place the intake camshaft at 90° angle of timing mark
(one pointed mark) on the cylinder head.
EM–100
(c) Apply seal packing to the No. 1 bearing cap as shown.

(d) Install the five bearing caps in their proper locations.
M Install and uniformly tighten the ten bearing cap
D. Install exhaust camshaft of LH cylinder head

(b) Align the timing marks (one pointed mark) of the camshaft
drive and driven gears.
(c) Place the intake camshaft on the cylinder head.
(d) Install the four bearing caps in their proper location.

EM–101
(e) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and un-
der the heads of bearing cap bolts.
(f) Install and uniformly tighten the eight bearing cap bolts
Remove the service bolt (6).
5. CHECK AND ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE

(See page EM–9)
Turn the camshaft and position the cam lobe upward, check
and adjust the valve clearance.
Intake 0.13 – 0.23 mm (0.005 – 0.009 in.)
Exhaust 0.27 – 0.37 mm (0.011 – 0.015 in.)
6. INSTALL CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS

(a) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(b) Using SST, tap in the oil seals.

SST 09223–46011
7. INSTALL SPARK PLUG TUBE GASKETS

Install the six tube gaskets.
EM–102
8. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVERS

(a) Apply seal packing to the cylinder heads as shown in the fig-
ure.
Seal packing: Part No.08826–00080 or equivalent
(b) Install the gasket to the cylinder head cover.

(c) Install the cylinder head cover with the six seal washers
and nuts. Install the two cylinder head covers.
Torque: 60 kg–cm (5Z in.–Ib, 5.9 N–m)

Install the timing belt cover. with the six bolts.
Torque: 75 kg–cm (65 in.–lb, 7.4 N–m)
10. INSTALL NO.2 IDLER PULLEY, CAMSHAFT TIMING
PULLEYS AND TIMING BELT
Torque: 180kg–cm (13 ft–Ib, 18 N–m)
12. INSTALL RH EXHAUST MANIFOLD

(a) Install the inside heat insulator with the bolt.
EM–103
(b) Install a new gasket and the exhaust manifold with new
six nuts.
(c) Install the outside heat insulator with the three nuts.
(d) Connect the oxygen sensor connector.
13. INSTALL LH EXHAUST MANIFOLD

(a) Install a new gasket and the exhaust manifold with new six
nuts.
(b) Install the heat insulator with the two nuts.
12. INSTALL INTAKE MANIFOLD

(a) Install two new gaskets and the intake manifold with the
eight bolts and four nuts.
EM–104
(b) Install the No.2 idler pulley bracket stay with the two
bolts.
Torque: 185 kg–cm (13 ft–tb. 18 N–m)
14. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD REAR PLATE

Install the rear plate with the two bolts.
15. INSTALL WATER BY–PASS OUTLET

(a) Install the crossover pipe heat insulator with the two bolts.
(b) Install a new gasket and the water by–pass outlet with
the three nuts.
Torque: 200 kg–cm (14 ft–tb, 20 N–m)
(c) Connect the following connectors and hose:
(1) Heater water by–pass hose
(3) Water temperature switch
16. INSTALL WATER OUTLET

(a) Connect the following hose and connector:
(2)Water temperature sensor connector
(b) Install a new gasket and the water outlet with the three nuts.
Torque: 85 kg–cm (73 in.–Ib, 8.3 N–m)
17. INSTALL INJECTORS AND DELIVERY PIPES
(See steps 1 to 5 on pages FI–98 and 99)
EM–105
18. INSTALL AIR INTAKE CHAMBER

(a) Install two new gaskets and the intake chamber with the two
bolts and two nuts.
(b) Install the two intake chamber stays with the four bolts.
(c) Connect the following hoses:
(1) PCV hose
(2) Vacuum sensing hose
(3) (CALIF. only)
EGR gas temperature sensor connector
(4) A/C control valve air hose
19. INSTALL COLD START INJECTOR TUBE
20. CONNECT COLD START INJECTOR CONNECTOR
21. INSTALL EXHAUST CROSSOVER PIPE
(a) Install two new gaskets to the RH and LH exhaust manifolds.
(b) install the crossover pipe with the six nuts and two bolts.
Torque:
Bolt 350 kg–cm (25 ft–lb, 34 N–m)
22. INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR (Seepage IG–19)
23. INSTALL VACUUM PIPE
(a) Install the vacuum pipe with the two bolts.
(b) Connect the following hoses:
(1) Four BVSV vacuum hoses
24. INSTALL EGR VALVE AND VACUUM MODULATOR

(a) Install a new gasket and the EGR valve and vacuum
modulator with the two bolts and two nuts.
Torque: 185. kg–cm (13 ft–Ib, 18 N–m)
(b) Install the four vacuum pipe hoses.
EM–106
25. INSTALL EGR PIPE

Install a new gasket and the EGR pipe with the two bolts and
union nut.
Torque:
Bolt 185 kg–cm (13 f t–lb, 18 N–m)
26. INSTALL THROTTLE BODY
(See steps 1 and 2 on page Fl–115)
27. INSTALL ISC VALVE
29. INSTALL FRONT EXHAUST PIPE
31. INSTALL AIR CLEANER HOSE
34. (A/T)
CONNECT THROTTLE CABLE, AND ADJUST IT
A/T 9.4 liters ( 9.9 US qts, 8.3 Imp. qts)
BATTERY
38. ADJUST IGNITION TIMING (See on page IG–21)
Ignition timing:
10° BTDC @ idle
40. RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL AND OIL LEVEL
,
EM–107
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Cylinder Block (3S–FE)
CYLINDER BLOCK (3S–FE)

COMPONENTS
EM–108
REMOVAL OF ENGINE
1. REMOVE BATTERY
3. REMOVE HOOD
4. REMOVE IGNITER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY
(a) Disconnect the igniter connector.
(b) Disconnect the ground strap from the bracket.
(c) Remove the two bolts, the igniter and bracket assembly.
5. REMOVE RADIATOR (See page CO–16)
6. REMOVE RADIATOR RESERVOIR TANK
7. (A/T)
BODY
THROTTLE BODY
REMOVE CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
(a) Disconnect the actuator vacuum hose.
(b) Disconnect the actuator connector.
(c) Remove the bolts, actuator and bracket.
10. REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY

(a) Disconnect the air flow meter connector.
(b) Disconnect the four air cleaner cap clips.
(c) Disconnect the air cleaner hose, and air flow meter
assembly.
(d) Remove the air cleaner element.
(e) Remove the three bolts and air cleaner case.
11. (M/T)
REMOVE CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER AND TUBE
BRACKET WITHOUT DISCONNECTING TUBE
12. DISCONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE
13. DISCONNECT TRANSAXLE CONTROL CABLES
EM–109
14. (w/ A/C)

REMOVE A/C COMPRESSOR WITHOUT
DISCONNECTING HOSES
(a) Disconnect the two connectors.
(b) Remove the four compressor bolts.
HINT: Put aside the compressor, and suspend it to the radia-
tor support with a string.
15. DISCONNECT HOSES

(a) Two heater water by–pass hoses
(b) Two fuel hoses
NOTICE: Catch leaking fuel in a container.
(c) Brake booster vacuum hose
(d) A/C control valve vacuum hoses
(e) Charcoal canister vacuum hose
16. DISCONNECT WIRES AND CONNECTORS
(a) Check connector
(b) Ground straps from LH fender apron
(e) Connectors from relay box
(d) Engine room wire connector
17. RAISE VEHICLE
18. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVERS
19. DRAIN ENGINE OIL (See page LU–7)
Remove the four bolts, two nuts and crossmember.
21. REMOVE DRIVE SHAFTS

22. (4WD) .
REMOVE PROPELLER SHAFT
23. (4WD)
REMOVE DEFECTOR FROM TRANSFER EXTENSION
HOUSING
24. REMOVE PS PUMP WITHOUT DISCONNECTING
HOSES
HINT: Put aside the pump and suspend it to the cowl with a
string.
EM–110

(a) Loosen the bolt, and disconnect the clamp from the bracket.
(b) Remove the two bolts and nuts, and disconnect the front
pipe from the center pipe. Remove the gasket.
(c) Remove the three nuts, front pipe and gasket.
26. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING CENTER MEMBER

(2WD)
Remove the eight bolts, two nuts and center member.
(4WD )
27. REMOVE ENGINE FRONT MOUNTING INSULATOR
AND BRACKET
28. (2WD)
REMOVE ENGINE CENTER MOUNTING INSULATOR
AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY
29. REMOVE ENGINE REAR MOUNTING INSULATOR
AND BRACKET
30. LOWER VEHICLE
31. DISCONNECT ENGINE WIRE
(a) Remove the glove compartment box.
(b) Disconnect the following connectors:
(1) Three TCCS ECU connectors
(2) Circuit opening relay connector
(3) Cowl wire connector
(4) Instrument panel wire connector
(c) Pull out the engine wire from the cowl panel.
DISCONNECTING HOSES
Remove the two bolts.
EM–111
33. REMOVE RH MOUNTING STAY

(2WD)
Remove the three bolts and mounting stay.
(4WD)
Remove the bolt, nut, ground strap and mounting stay.
34. (A/T)
REMOVE LH MOUNTING STAY
(2WD)
Remove the bolt, nut and mounting stay.
(4WD)
Remove the two nuts and mounting stay.
35. REMOVE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY

FROM VEHICLE
(a) Attach the engine hoist chain to the engine hangers.
EM–112
(b) (2WD)
Remove the bolt, four nuts and RH mounting insula-
tor.
(c) (4WD)
Remove the through bolt, two nuts and RH mounting
insulator.
(d) Remove the through bolt, three bolts (2WD, M/T), four
bolts (Others) and LH mounting insulator.
(e) Remove the three bolts and LH mounting bracket.
(f) Lift the engine out of the vehicle slowly and carefully.
NOTICE: Be careful not to hit the PS gear housing or neutral
start switch.
(g) Make sure the engine is clear of all wiring, hoses and
cables.
(h) Place the engine and transaxle assembly onto the stand.
36. SEPARATE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE
EM–113
PREPARATION FOR DISASSEMBLY

1. ( M /T)
REMOVE CLUTCH COVER AND DISC
2. ( M /T)
REMOVE FLYWHEEL
3. 1A/T)
REMOVE DRIVE PLATE
4. REMOVE REAR END PLATE
5. INSTALL ENGINE TO ENGINE STAND FOR
DISASSEMBLY
7 REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR (See page IG–13)
8. REMOVE TIMING BELT AND PULLEYS
(See page EM–23)
9. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD (See page EM–48)
10. REMOVE WATER PUMP (See page CO–6)
11. REMOVE OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP
(See page LU–9)
EM–114
DISASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER BLOCK

(See page EM–107)
1. REMOVE REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER
Remove the six bolts, retainer and gasket.
2. CHECK CONNECTING ROD THRUST CLEARANCE

Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while
moving the connecting rod back and forth.
(0.0063 – 0.0123 in.)
If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum replace the
connecting rod assembly. If necessary, replace the crank-
shaft.
3. REMOVE CONNECTING ROD CAPS AND CHECK OIL

CLEARANCE
(a) Using a punch or numbering stamp, place the match–
marks on the connecting rod and cap to ensure correct
reassembly.
(b) Remove the connecting rod cap nuts.
(c) Using a plastic–faced hammer, lightly tap the connect-

ing rod bolts and lift off the connecting rod cap.
HINT: Keep the lower bearing inserted with the connect-
ing cap.
EM–115
(d) Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of

hose to protect the crankshaft from damage.
(e) Clean crank pin and bearing.

(f) Check the crank pin and bearing for pitting and
scratches.
If the crank pin or bearing are damaged, replace the
bearings.
If necessary, replace the crankshaft.
(g) Lay a strip of Plastigage across the crank pin.
(h) Install the connecting rod cap.

Torque: 500 kg–cm (36 ft–lb. 49 N–m)
HINT: Do not turn the crankshaft.
(i) Remove the connecting rod cap.

(j) Measure the Plastigage at widest point.
STD 0.024 – 0.055 mm
(0.0009 – 0.0022 in.)
U/S 0.25 0.023 – 0.069 mm
(0.0009 – 0.0027 in.)
If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace
the bearings. If necessary, replace the crankshaft.
EM–116
HINT: If using a standard bearing, replace with one having

the same number marked on the connecting rod cap. There
are three sizes of standard bearings, marked
”1”, ”2’ and “3” accordingly.
(Reference)
Standard sized bearing thickness (at center wall):
Mark ”1 ” 1.484 – 1.488 mm
(0.0584 – 0.0586 in.)
Mark ”2” 1.488 – 1.492 :N»
(0.0586 – 0.0587 in.)
Mark ”3” 1.492 – 1.496 mm
(0.0587 – 0.0589 in.)
(k) Completely remove the Plastigage.
4. REMOVE PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLIES
(a) Remove the ail carbon from the piston ring ridge.
(b) Cover the connecting rod bolts.
(See page EM–115)
(c) Push the piston, connecting rod assembly and upper bear-
ing through the top of the cylinder block.
HINT:
• Keep the bearings, connecting rod and cap together.
• Arrange the piston and connecting rod assemblies in
correct order.
5. CHECK CRANKSHAFT THRUST CLEARANCE

prying the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver.
(0.0008 – 0.0087 in.)
thrust washers as a set.
Thrust washer thickness (STD size only):
2.440 – 2.490 mm (0.0961 – 0.0980 in.)
6. REMOVE MAIN BEARING CAPS AND CHECK OIL
CLEARANCE
(a) Remove the main bearing cap bolts.
EM–117
(b) Using the removed main bearing cap bolts, pry the main
bearing cap back and forth, and remove the main
bearing caps, lower bearings and lower thrust wash-
ers
(No.3 main bearing cap only).
HINT:
• Keep the lower bearing and main bearing cap together.
• Arrange the main bearing caps and lower thrust wash-
ers in correct order.
(c) Lift out the crankshaft.
HINT: Keep the upper bearing and upper thrust washers
together with the cylinder block.
(d) Clean each main journal and bearing.
(e) Check each main journal and bearing for pitting and
scratches.
If the journal or bearing is damaged, replace the bear-
ings. If necessary, replace the crankshaft.
(f) Place the crankshaft on the cylinder block.

Lay a strip of Plastigage across each journal.
(h) Install the main bearing caps.

HINT: Do not turn the crankshaft
(i) Remove the main bearing caps.
(j) Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.
No. 3 STD 0.025 0.044mm
(0.0010 .– 0.0017 in.)
U /S 0.25 0.027 – 0.067 mm
(0. 0011 – 0. 0026 in.)
Others STD 0.015 0.034 mm
(0.0006 – 0.0013 in.)
U/S 0.25 0. 019 – 0.059 mm
(0.0007 0.0023 in.)
HINT: If replacing the cylinder block subassembly, the
bearing standard clearance will be:
No. 3 0.027 – 0.054 mm
(0.0011 0.0021 in.)
Others 0.017 0.044 mm
(0.0007 – 0.0017 in.)
bearings, if necessary, replace the crankshaft.
EM–118
HINT: If using a standard bearing, replace with one hav-

ing the same number. If the number of the bearing de
determined, select a bearing from the table below ac-
cording to the numbers imprinted on the cylinder block
and crankshaft. There are five sizes of standard bear-
ings, marked “1,” “2,” “3,” “4,” and “5.”
Number marked
Cylinder block
Crankshaft
Bearing
EXAMPLE: Cylinder block ”2” + Crankshaft ”1”

= Bearing ”3”
(Reference)
Cylinder block main journal bore diameter:
Mark ”1 ” 59.020 – 59.026 mm
(2.3236 – 2.3239 in.)
Mark ”2” 59.026 – 29.032 mm
(2.3239 – 2.3241 in.)
Mark ”3” 59.032 – 59.038 mm
(2.3241 – 2.3243 in.)
Crankshaft journal diameter:
Mark ”0” 54.998 – 55.003 mm
(2.1653 – 2.1655 in.)
Mark ”1” 54.993 – 54.998 mm
(2.1651 – 2.1653 in.)
Mark ”2” 54.988 – 54.993 mm
(2.1649 – 2.1651 in.)
Standard sized bearing thickness tat center wall):
No. 3 Mark ”1 ” 1.992 – 1.995 mm
(0.0784 – 0.0785 in.)
Mark ”2” 1.995 – 1.998 mm
(0.0785 – 0.0787 in.)
Mark ”3” 1.998 – 2.001 mm
(0.0787 – 0.0788 in.)
Mark ”4” 2.00 1 – 2.004 mm
(0.0788 – 0.0789 In.)
Mark ”5” 2.004 – 2.007 mm
(0.0789 – 0.0790 In.)
Others Mark ”1 ” 1.997 – 2.000 mm
(0.0786 – 0.0787 in.)
Mark ”2’ 2.000 – 2.003 mm
(0.0787 – 0.0789 in.)
Mark ”3” 2.003 – 2.006 mm
(0.0789 – 0.0790 in.)
Mark ”4” 2.006 – 2.009 mm
(0.0790 – 0.0791 in.)
Mark ”5” 2.009 – 2.012 mm
(0.0791 – 0.0792 in.)
EM–119
7. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT
(a) Lift out the crankshaft.
(b) Remove the upper bearings and upper thrust washers from
cylinder block.
HINT: Arrange the main bearing caps, bearings and thrust
washers in correct order. .
INSPECTION OF CYLINDER BLOCK

the cylinder block surface.
2. CLEAN CYLINDER BLOCK
Using a soft brush and solvent, clean the cylinder block.
3. INSPECT TOP OF CYLINDER BLOCK FOR FLATNESS

the surfaces contacting the cylinder head gasket for warp–
age.
if warpage is greater than maximum, replace the cylinder
block.
4. INSPECT CYLINDER FOR VERTICAL SCRATCHES

Visually check the cylinder for vertical scratches.
If deep scratches are present, replace the cylinder block.
5. INSPECT CYLINDER BORE DIAMETER

HINT: There are three sizes of the standard cylinder bore di-
ameter, marked ”l,” ”2,” and ”3” accordingly. The marked is
stamped on the top of the cylinder block.
EM–120
Using a cylinder gauge, measure the cylinder bore di-

ameter at positions A, B and C in the thrust axial direc-
tions.
Standard diameter:
Mark ”1 ” 86.000 – 86.010 mm
(3.3858 – 3.3862 in.)
Mark ”2” 86.010 86.020 mm
(3.3862 – 3.3866 in.)
Mark ”3” 86.020 – 86.030 mm
(3.3866 3.3870 in.)
Maximum diameter: 86.23 mm (3.3949 in.)
If the diameter is greater than maximum, replace the
cylinder block.
6. REMOVE CYLINDER RIDGE

If the wear is less than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.), use a ridge ream-
er to machine the piston ring ridge at the top of the cylinder.
DISASSEMBLY OF PISTON AND

CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES
1. CHECK FIT BETWEEN PISTON AND PISTON PIN
Try to move the piston back and forth on the piston pin.
If any movement is felt, replace the piston and pin as a set.
2. REMOVE PISTON RINGS

(a) Using a piston ring expander, remove the two compression
rings.
EM–121
(b) Remove the two side rails and oil ring expander by
hand.
HINT: Arrange the rings in correct order only.
3. DISCONNECT CONNECTING ROD FROM PISTON

Using SST, press out the piston pin from the piston.
SST 09221–25024 (09221–00020,09221–00030,
09221–00060,09221–00160,09221–00170)
HINT:
• The piston and pin are a matched set.
• Arrange the pistons, pins, rings, connecting rods and
bearings in correct order.
INSPECTION OF PISTON AND CONNECTING

ROD ASSEMBLIES
1. CLEAN PISTON
(a) Using a gasket scraper, remove the carbon from the
piston top.
(b) Using a groove cleaning broken ring, clean the piston

ring grooves.
EM–122
(c) Using solvent and a brush, thoroughly clean the pis-

ton.
NOTICE: Do not use a wire brush.
2. INSPECT PISTON DIAMETER AND OIL CLEARANCE

HINT: There are three sizes of the standard piston diameter,
marked ”1 ”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly. The mark is stamped
on the top of the piston.
(a) Using a micrometer, measure the piston diameter at right
angles to the piston pin center line, 25.4 mm
1.000 in.) from the piston head.
Piston diameter Mark ”1” 85.945 – 85.955 mm
(3.3836 – 3.3840 in.)
Mark ”2” 85.955 – 85.965 mm
(3.3840 – 3.3844 in.)
Mark ”3” 85.965 – 85.975 mm
(3.3844 3.3848 in.)
(b) Measure the cylinder bore diameter in the thrust directions.
(e) Subtract the piston diameter measurement from the cylin-
der bore diameter measurement.
(0.0018 – 0.0026 in.)
If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace all
four pistons. If necessary, replace the cylinder block.
HINT: (Use cylinder block subassembly): When installing a
standard piston, install one with the same number mark as
the standard bore diameter mark on the cylinder block.
EM–123
3. INSPECT CLEARANCE BETWEEN WALL OF RING

GROOVE AND NEW PISTON RING
Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between new
piston ring and the wall of the piston ring groove.
Ring groove clearance: 0.030 – 0.070 mm
(0.0012 – 0.0028 in.)
If the clearance is greater than maximum, replace the pis-
ton.
4. INSPECT PISTON RING END GAP

(a) Insert the piston ring into the cylinder bore.
(b) Using a piston, push the piston ring a little beyond the bot-
tom of the ring travel, 114 mm (4:33 in.) from the top of the
cylinder block.
(c) Using a feeler gauge, measure the end gap.

Standard end gap:
No–1 0.270 – 0.500 mm
(0.0106 – 0.0197 in.)
No. 2 0.270 – 0.510 m m
(0.0106 – 0.0201 in.)
Oil (Side rail) 0.200 – 0.550 mm
(0.0079 – 0.0217 in.)
Maximum end gap:
No.1 1.10–mm (0.0433 in.)
No.2 1.11 mm (0.0437 in.)
Oil (Side rail) 1.15 mm (0.0453 in.)
If the end gap is greater than maximum, replace the piston
ring. If the end gap is greater than maximum, even with a
new piston ring, replace the cylinder block.
5. INSPECT CONNECTING ROD

Using a rod aligner, check the connecting rod alignment.
• Check for bending.
Maximum bending:
0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) per 100 mm (3.94 in.)
If bent is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod
assembly.
• Check for twist.
Maximum twist:
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) per 100 mm (3.94 in.)
If twist is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod
assembly.
EM–124
INSPECTION AND REPAIR OF

CRANKSHAFT
1. INSPECT CRANKSHAFT FOR RUNOUT
(a) Place the crankshaft on V–blocks.
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the circle runout at the
center journal.
If the circle runout is greater than maximum, replace the crank-
shaft.
2. INSPECT MAIN JOURNALS AND CRANK PINS

(a) Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each main
journal and crank pin.
Main journal diameter:
STD size 54.988 – 55.003 mm
(2.1649 – 2.1655 in.)
U/S 0.25 54.745 – 54.755 mm
(2.1553 – 2.1557 in.)
Crank pin diameter:
STD size 47.985 – 48.000 mm
(1.8892 –1. 8898 in.)
U/S 0.25 47.745 – 47.755 mm»
(1.8797 – 1.8801 in.)
If the diameter is not as specified, check the oil clearance
(See pages EM–114 to 117).
(b) Check each main journal and crank pin for taper and out–
of–round as shown.
Maximum taper and out–of–round: 0.02 mm
(0.0008 in.)
If the taper and out–of–round is greater than maximum,
grind or replace the crankshaft.
3. IF NECESSARY, GRIND AND HONE MAIN JOURNALS
AND/OR CRANK PINS
Grind and hone the main journals and/or crank pins to the
finished undersized diameter (See procedure step 2).
Install new main journal and/or crank pin undersized bear-
ings.
EM–125
REPLACEMENT OF CRANKSHAFT OIL

SEALS
HINT: There are two methods (A and B) to replace the oil
seal as follows:
1. REPLACE CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SEAL

A. If oil pump is removed from cylinder block:
(a) Using screwdriver and hammer, tap out the oil seal.
(b) Using SST and a hammer, tap in a new oil seal until its
surface is flush with the oil pump case edge.
SST 09226–10010
(c) Apply MP grease to the oil seal lip.
B. If oil pump is installed to the cylinder block:

(a) Using a knife, cut off the oil seal lip.
(b) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
Tape the screwdriver tip.
(c) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.

(d) Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its sur-
face is flush with the oil pump case edge.
SST 09226–10010
EM–126
_. w.
2. REPLACE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL

A. If rear oil seal retainer is removed from cylinder block:
(a) Using a screwdriver and hammer, tap out the oil seal.
surface is flush with the rear oil seal edge.
SST 09223–63010
(c) Apply IMP grease to the oil seal lip.
B. If near oil seal retainer is installed to cylinder block:

(b) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seat.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.

face is flush with the rear oil seal retainer edge.
SST 09223–63010
EM–127
ASSEMBLY OF PISTON AND CONNECTING

ROD ASSEMBLIES
1. ASSEMBLE PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
(a) Align the front marks of the piston and connecting rod.
(b) Coat the piston pin and piston hole of the piston with
engine oil.
(c) Using SST, press in the piston pin.
SST 09221–25024 (09221–00020,09221–00030,
09221–00060,09221–00160,09221–00170)
(d) Check that the piston smoothly moves back and forth
on the piston pin.
2. INSTALL PISTON RINGS

(a) Install the oil ring expander and two side rails by hand.
(b) Using a piston ring expander, install the two com–

pression rings with the code mark facing upward.
Code mark: No. 11T or 1N
No. 2 2T or 2N
(c) Position the piston rings so that the ring ends are as
shown.
NOTICE: Do not align the ring ends.
EM–128
3. INSTALL BEARINGS
(a) Align the bearing claw with the groove of the connecting rod
or connecting cap.
(b) Install the bearings in the connecting rod and connecting
rod cap.
NOTICE: Install the bearing with the oil hole in the connect-
ing rod.
ASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER BLOCK

(See page EM–107)
HINT:
• Replace all gaskets. O–rings and oil seals with new pants.
1. INSTALL MAIN BEARINGS

(a) Align the bearing claw with the claw groove of the main
bearing cap or cylinder block.
(b) Install the bearings in the cylinder block and main bearing
caps.
NOTICE: Install the bearing with the oil hole in the cylinder
block.
2. INSTALL UPPER THRUST WASHERS

Install the thrust washers under the No. 3 main bearing cap
position of the block with the oil grooves facing outward.
3. PLACE CRANKSHAFT ON CYLINDER BLOCK
4. INSTALL MAIN BEARING CAPS AND LOWER THRUST

WASHERS
(a) Install the thrust washers on the No. 3 bearing cap with
the grooves facing outward.
EM–129
(b) Install the main bearing caps in their proper location.

HINT: Each bearing cap has a number and front mark.
(c) Apply alight coat of engine oil on the threads and under
the heads of the main bearing caps.
(d) Install and uniformly tighten the ten bolts of the main
bearing caps in several passes in the sequence
shown.
Torque: 600 kg–cm (43 ft–ib, 59 N–m)
(e) Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
(f) Check the crankshaft thrust clearance.
(See step 5 –on page EM–116)
5. INSTALL PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLIES
(a) Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of hose to
protect the crankshaft from damage.
(b) Using a piston ring compressor, push the correctly

numbered piston and connecting rod assemblies into
each cylinder with the front mark of the piston facing
forward.
6. INSTALL CONNECTING ROD CAPS

(a) Match the numbered connecting rod cap with the connecting
rod.
(b) Install the connecting rod cap with the front mark facing for-
ward.
EM–130
(c) Apply a light of engine oil on the threads and under the
nuts of the connecting rod cap.
(d) Install and alternately tighten the nuts of the connect-
ing rod cap in several passes.
(e) Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
M Check the connecting rod thrust clearance.
7. INSTALL REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER

Install a new gasket and the retainer with the six bolts.
EM–131
POST ASSEMBLY
1. INSTALL OIL PUMP AND OIL PAN
(See page LU–14)
2. INSTALL WATER PUMP (See page CO–7)
3. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD (See page EM–67)
4. INSTALL PULLEYS AND TIMING BELT
(See page EM–29)
6. INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR (See page IG–16)
7. REMOVE ENGINE STAND
8. INSTALL REAR END PLATE
Torque: 95 kg–cm (82 ft–Ib, 9.3 N–m)
9. (M/T)
INSTALL FLYWHEEL
(a) Apply adhesive to two or three threads of the mount bolt
end.
Adhesive: Part No.08833–00070, THREE BOND 1324
or equivalent
(b) Install the flywheel on the crankshaft.

(c) Install and uniformly tighten the mount bolts in several
passes in the sequence shown.
Torque: 900 kg–cm (65 ft–Ib. 88 N–m)
10. (A/T)
INSTALL DRIVE PLATE
(See procedure step 9)
11. (M/T)
INSTALL CLUTCH DISC AND COVER
EM–132
INSTALLATION VF ENGINE
1. ASSEMBLE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE
2. INSTALL ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY IN
VEHICLE
(b) Lower the engine into the engine compartment. Tilt the
transaxle downward, lower the engine and clear the LH
mounting.
NOTICE: Be careful not to hit the PS gear housing or
neutral start switch.
(c) Keep the engine level, and align RH and LH mounting with
the body bracket.
(d) (2WD)
Attach the RH mounting insulator to the mounting
bracket and body, and temporarily install the bolt and
nut.
(e) (2WD)
Temporarily install the mounting stay bolt (A).
(f) (4WD)
Attach the RN mounting insulator to the mounting
bracket and body, and temporarily install the through
bolt and two nuts.
(g) Install the LH mounting bracket to the transaxle case

with the three bolts. Torque the bolts.
(h) Attach the LH mounting insulator to the mounting brack-
et and body with the through bolt and three bolts
(2WD M/T) or four bolts (Others), and install and
torque the bolts.
Torque:
Through bolt 890 kg–cm (64 ft–lb, 87 N–m)
EM–133
(i) (2WD)
Torque the bolt and four nuts of the RH mounting in-
sulator. Do not torque the bolt (A) yet.
Torque:
Nut To bracket 530 kg–cm (38 ft–Ib, 52 N–m)
To body 900 kg–cm (65 ft–Ib, 88 N–m)
(j) (4WD)
Torque the through bolt and two nuts of the RH
mounting insulator.
Torque:
Through bolt 890 kg–cm (64 ft–lb, 87 N–m)
(k) Remove the engine hoist chain from the engine.
3. INSTALL ENGINE RH MOUNTING STAY

(2WD)
Install the mounting stay with the three botts. Torque the bolts.
(4WD)
Install the mounting stay with the bolt and nut. Torque
the bolt and nut.
EM–134
4. (A/T)
INSTALL ENGINE LH MOUNTING STAY
(2WD)
Install the mounting stay with the bolt and nut. Torque the
bolt and nut.
(4WD)
Install the mounting stay with the two
nuts.
Torque: 210 kg–cm (15 ft–Ib. 21 N–m)

Install the two bolts.
6. CONNECT ENGINE WIRE
(a) Push in the engine wire through the cowl panel.
(b) Connect the following connectors.
(c) Install the glove compartment box.
7. RAISE VEHICLE
NOTICE: Be sure vehicle is securely supported.
8. INSTALL ENGINE FRONT MOUNTING BRACKET AND
INSULATOR
(a) Install the mounting bracket with the two bolts. Torque the
bolts.
(b) Temporarily install the mounting insulator with the through
bolt and nut.
9. (2WD)
INSTALL ENGINE CENTER MOUNTING BRACKET
AND INSULATOR ASSEMBLY
Install the mounting bracket and insulator assembly with the
two bolts. Torque the bolts.
EM–135
10. INSTALL ENGINE REAR MOUNTING BRACKET AND

INSULATOR
(M/T)
(a) Install the mounting bracket with the three bolts.
Torque the bolts.
bolt and nut:
(2WD A/T)
(a) Install the mounting bracket with the two bolts. Torque
the bolts.
Torque: 790 kg–cm (57ft–Ib, 77 N–m)
(b) Temporarily install the mounting insulator with the
through bolt and nut (damper).
(4WD M/T)
Torque the bolts.
through bolt.
(4WD A/T)
(a) Install the mounting bracket with the two bolts. Torque
the bolts.
through bolt.
11. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING CENTER MEMBER

(a) Install the engine mounting center member with the four
bolts. Torque the bolts.
(b) Install and torque the four bolts and two nuts (2WD)
holding the mounting insulators to the center member.
Torque: Nut 490 kg–cm (35 ft–Ib, 48 N–m)
Bolt 740 kg–cm (54 ft–1b, 73 N–m)
(c) Torque the mounting insulator through bolts (front and rear.)
EM–136

(a) Place two new gaskets on the front and rear of the front pipe.
(b) Install the front pipe with the two bolts and new five nuts.
Torque the nuts.
Torque:
To manifold: 830 kg–cm (46ft–Ib, 62 N–m)
To converter: 440 kg–cm (32ft–lb, 43 N–m)
(c) Install the clamp with the bolt.

13. INSTALL PS PUMP
14. (4WD)
INSTALL DEFLECTOR TO TRANSFER EXTENSION
HOUSING
15. (411VD)
INSTALL PROPELLER SHAFT
16. INSTALL DRIVE SHAFTS
(a) Install the crossmember with the two bolts and two nuts.
Torque the bolts and nuts.
(b) Install the two bolts holding the crossmember to the center
member. Torque the bolts.
18. INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVERS
19. CONNECT WIRES AND CONNECTORS
(a) Check connector
(c) Connectors from relay box
20. CONNECT HOSES
(a) Two heater water by–pass hoses
(b) Two fuel hoses
(c) Brake booster vacuum hoses
(d) A/C idle–up vacuum hoses
(e) Charcoal canister vacuum hose
21. (w/ A/C)
INSTALL A/C COMPRESSOR
(a) Install the compressor with the four bolts.
(b) Connect the two connectors.
22. CONNECT TRANSAXLE CONTROL CABLE
23. CONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE
EM–137
24. (M/T)
INSTALL CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER AND TUBE
CLAMP
25. INSTALL AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY

(a) Install the air cleaner case with the three bolts.
(b) Install the air cleaner element.
(c) Connect the air cleaner hose, and Install the air cleaner cap
and air flow meter assembly with the four clips.
(d) Connect the air flow meter connector.

INSTALL CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
(a) Install the actuator and bracket with the bolts.
(b) Connect the actuator connector.
(c) Connect the actuator vacuum hose.
27. (A/T)
INSTALL THROTTLE CABLE, AND ADJUST IT
30. INSTALL RADIATOR (See page CO–19)
31. INSTALL IGNITER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY

(a) Install the igniter and bracket assembly with the two bolts.
(b) Connect the igniter connector.
(c) Connect the ground strap.
EM–138
32. INSTALL BATTERY

34. FILL WITH ENGINE OIL (See page LU–8)
Capacity:
Drain and refill
w/ Oil filter change
3.9 liters (4.1 US qts, 3.4 Imp. qts)
w/o Oil filter change
Dry fill 4.3 liters (4.5 US qts, 3.8 Imp. qts)
(a) Adjust the alternator drive belt.
(See page CH–3)
Drive belt tension:
w/ A/C New belt 175 ± 5 lb
Used belt 130 ± 10 lb
w/o A/C New belt 125 ± 25 lb
(b) Adjust the PS drive belt.
Drive belt tension: New belt 125 ± 25 lb
(c) Adjust the ignition timing.
(See steps 7 to 10 on pages IG–16 and 17)
Ignition timing:
10° BTDC @ idle
(w/ Terminals TE 1 and E1 connected)
(d) Adjust the valve. clearance. (See page EM–11)
Valve clearance:
Intake 0.19 – 0.29 mm (0.007 – 0.011 in.)
Exhaust 0.28 – 0.38 mm (0.011 – 0.015 in.)
37. INSTALL HOOD
39. RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT AND ENGINE OIL
LEVELS
EM–139
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Cylinder Block (2VZ–FE)
CYLINDER BLOCK (2VZ–FE)

COMPONENTS
EM–140
REMOVAL OF ENGINE
1. REMOVE BATTERY
Disconnect the grand strap.
3. REMOVE HOOD
4. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVERS
6. DRAIN ENGINE OIL
7. REMOVE IGNITION COIL, IGNITER AND BRACKET
ASSEMBLY
(a) Disconnect the following cord and connectors:
(1) Igniter connector
(2) Noise filter connector
(3) High–tension cord
(b) Remove the two bolts, the ignition coil, igniter and bracket
assembly.
8. REMOVE RADIATOR (See page CO–16)
10. REMOVE ALTERNATOR BELT ADJUSTING BAR
11. REMOVE RADIATOR RESERVOIR TANK
THROTTLE BODY
13. (A/T)
BODY
VACUUM PUMP
(w/A.B.S..)
(a) Remove the dust cover.
(b) Disconnect the following hoses and connector:
(1) Actuator vacuum hoses
(2) Actuator connector
(c) Remove the four bolts, actuator and bracket.
(d) Disconnect the vacuum pump connector.
(e) Remove the three bolts, vacuum pump and bracket.
EM–141
(w/o A.B.S..)
(a) Disconnect the following the hose and connectors:
(1) Actuator vacuum hose from air intake chamber
(3) Vacuum pump connector
(4) Vacuum switch connector
(b) Remove the three bolts, the actuator, vacuum pump
and vacuum switch assembly.
15. REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY

(a) Disconnect the following connector and hoses:
(1) Air flow meter connector
(2) ISC valve air hose
(3) Vacuum pipe air hose
(b) Disconnect the four air cleaner cap clips.
(c) Disconnect–the air cleaner hose, and remove the air
cleaner cap, hoses, and air flow meter assembly.
(d) Remove the air cleaner element.
(e) Remove the three bolts and air cleaner case.
16. DISCONNECT WIRES AND CONNECTORS
(a) Check connector
(d) Engine room wire connecter
17. DISCONNECT VACUUM HOSES
(a) Brake booster vacuum hose from air intake chamber
(b) A/C control valve vacuum hose from air intake chamber
(c) A/C control valve vacuum hose from vacuum pipe (on air in-
take chamber)
(d) Charcoal canister vacuum hose from vacuum pipe (on air in-
take chamber)
18. DISCONNECT GROUND STRAP FROM TRANSAXLE
19. DISCONNECT HEATER HOSES

20. DISCONNECT FUEL HOSE
CAUTION: Catch leaking fuel in a container.
(M/T)
21. REMOVE STARTER
EM–142
22. (M /T)
REMOVE CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER AND TUBE
CLAMP WITHOUT DISCONNECTING TUBE
23. DISCONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE
24. DISCONNECT TRANSAXLE CONTROL CABLE(S)
25. DISCONNECT ENGINE WIRE FROM CABIN

(a) Remove the under cover.
(b) Remove the glove compartment box.
(c) Disconnect the following connectors:
(1) Three engine & ECT ECU connectors
(d) Pull out the engine wire from the cowl panel.
Remove the two bolts, two nuts and crossmember.

(a) Remove the two pipe stay bolts.
(b) Remove the two bolts and nuts, and disconnect the front
pipe from the center pipe. Remove the gasket.
(c) Remove the three nuts, front pipe and gasket.
28. REMOVE A/C COMPRESSOR WITHOUT

DISCONNECTING HOSES
(a) Disconnect the two connectors.
(b) Remove the four compressor bolts.
HINT: Put aside the compressor, and suspend it to the radia-
tor support with a string.
EM–143
29. REMOVE DRIVE SHAFTS

30. REMOVE PS PUMP WITHOUT DISCONNECTING
HOSES
HINT: Put aside the pump and suspend it to the cowl with a
string.
31. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING CENTER MEMBER

32. REMOVE FRONT ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR

AND BRACKET
(a) Remove the nut, through bolt and mounting insulator.
(b) Remove the three bolts and mounting bracket.
33. REMOVE CENTER ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR

AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY
Remove the three bolts, the mounting bracket and insulator
assembly.
34. REMOVE REAR ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR

AND BRACKET
(a) Remove the nut, through bolt and mounting insulator.
(b) Remove the three bolts and mounting bracket.
EM–144

DISCONNECTING HOSES
Remove the two bolts and reservoir tank. Disconnect the
ground strap.
36. REMOVE ENGINE RH MOUNTING STAYS

(a) Remove the three bolts and No. 1 mounting stay.
(b) Remove the bolt, nut and No. 2 mounting stay.
37. REMOVE ENGINE LH MOUNTING STAY

(M/T)
Remove the bolt, two nuts and mounting stay.
(A/T)
Remove the three nuts and mounting
stay.
38. REMOVE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY

FROM VEHICLE
EM–145
(b) (w/ A.B.S.)

Remove the clamp bolts of the PS oil cooler pipes.
(c) Remove the bolt, four nuts and RH mounting insulator.
(d) Remove the through bolt, nut, four bolts and LH

mounting insulator.
(e) Remove the three bolts and LH mounting bracket.
(f) Lift the engine out of the vehicle slowly and carefully.
NOTICE: Be careful not to hit the PS gear housing or
neutral start switch.
(g) Make sure the engine is clear of all wiring, hoses and
cables.
(h) Place the engine. and transaxle assembly onto the
stand.
39. (A/T)
REMOVE STARTER
40. SEPARATE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE
EM–146
PREPARATION FOR DISASSEMBLY

1. (M/T)
REMOVE CLUTCH COVER AND DISC
2. (M/T)
REMOVE FLYWHEEL
3. (A/T)
REMOVE DRIVE PLATE
4 REMOVE REAR END PLATE
Remove the bolt and end plate.
5. INSTALL ENGINE TO ENGINE STAND FOR
DISASSEMBLY
6. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR (See page IG–18)
7. REMOVE TIMING BELT AND PULLEYS
(See page EM–34)
8. REMOVE CYLINDER HEADS (See page EM–76)
9. REMOVE WATER PUMP (See page CO–9)
10. REMOVE OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP
(See page LU–17)
11. REMOVE OIL FILTER (See page LU–7)
12. REMOVE KNOCK SENSOR
Using SST, remove the knock sensor.
SST 09816–30010
13. REMOVE WATER BY–PASS PIPE

Remove the two bolts, two nuts and by–pass pipe.
14. REMOVE NO.2 IDLER PULLEY BRACKET

Remove the three bolts and mounting bracket.
EM–147
DISASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER BLOCK

(See page EM–139)
1. REMOVE REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER
Remove the six bolts and retainer.
2. CHECK CONNECTING ROD THRUST CLEARANCE

moving the connecting rod back and forth.
(0.0059 – 0.0130 in.)
connecting rod assembly. If necessary, replace the crank-
shaft.
3. REMOVE CONNECTING ROD CAPS AND CHECK OIL

CLEARANCE
(a) Using a punch or numbering stamp, place the rnatchmarks
on the connecting rod and cap to ensure correct reas-
sembly.
(b) Using SST, remove the connecting rod cap nuts.

SST 09011–38121
(c) Using a plastic–faced hammer, lightly tap the connect-

ing rod bolts and lift off the connecting rod cap.
HINT: Keep the lower bearing inserted with the connect-
ing cap.
EM–148
(d) Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of

hose to protect the crankshaft from damage.
(e) Clean the crank pin and bearing.

(f) Check the crank pin and bearing for pitting and scratches.
If the crank pin or bearing is damaged, replace the bearing.
If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.
(g) Lay a strip of Plastigage across the crank pin.
(h) Install the connecting rod cap.

Torque: 1st 250 kg–cm (18 ft–ib, 25 N–m)
2nd turns 90°
NOTICE: Do not turn the crankshaft
(i) Remove the connecting rod cap.

(j) Measure the Plastigage at widest point.
STD 0.028 – 0.065 mm
(0.0011 – 0.0026 in.)
U/S 0.25 0.027 – 0.080 mm
(0.0011 – 0.0031 in.)
the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crank-
shaft.
EM–149
HINT: If using a standard bearing, replace with one having

the same number marked on the connecting rod cap. There
are three sizes of standard bearings, marked
”1 ”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly.
(Reference)
Standard sized bearing center wail thickness:
Mark ”1” 1.484 – 1.488 mm
(0.0584 – 0.0586 in.)
Mark ”2” 1.488 – 1.492 mm
(0.0586 – 0.0587 in.)
Mark ”3” 1.492 – 1.496 mm
(0.0587 – 0.0589 in.)
4. REMOVE PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLIES
(a) Remove the all carbon from the piston ring ridge.
(b)Cover the connecting rod bolts.
(See page EM–145)
(c) Push the piston, connecting rod assembly and upper bear-
ing through the top of the cylinder block.
HINT:
• Keep the bearing, connecting rod and cap together.
• Arrange the piston and connecting rod assemblies in
correct order.
5. CHECK CRANKSHAFT THRUST CLEARANCE

Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while pry-
ing the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver.
(0.0008 – 0.0087 in.)
thrust washers as a set.
Thrust washer thickness (STD size only):
2.440 – 2.490 mm (0.0961 – 0.0980 in.)
6. REMOVE MAIN BEARING CAP AND CHECK OIL
CLEARANCE
(a) Uniformly loosen and remove the main bearing cap
EM–150
(b) Using a screwdriver, pry up the main bearing cap, and

remove the main bearing cap, lower main bearings
and lower thrust washers (No. 2 journal position of
main bearing cap only).
HINT: Keep the lower main bearings and lower thrust
washers together with the main bearing cap.
(c) Lift out the crankshaft.
NOTE: Keep the upper main bearings and upper thrust
washers together with the cylinder block.
(d) Clean each main journal and bearing.

(e) Check each main journal and bearing for pitting and
scratches.
If the journal or bearing is damaged, replace the bear-
ing. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.
(f) Place the crankshaft on the cylinder block.

(g) Lay a strip of Plastigage across each journal.
(h) Install the main bearing cap.

Torque: 1 st 625 kg–cm (45 ft–Ib, 61 N–m)
2nd turns 90°
NOTICE: Do not turn the crankshaft
(i) Remove the main bearing cap.

(j) Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.
Standard clearance:
STD 0.029 – 0.056 mm
(0.0011 – 0.0022 in.)
U/S 0.25 0.028 – 0.080 mm
(0.0011 – 0.0031 in.)
Maximum clearance: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)
HINT: If replacing the cylinder block sub–assembly, the
bearing standard clearance will be:
0.031 0.067 mm
(0.0012 – 0.0026 in.)
bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.
EM–151
HINT: If using a standard bearing, replace with one hav-

ing the same number. If the number of the bearing be
determined, select a bearing from the table below ac-
cording to the numbers imprinted on the cylinder block
and crankshaft. There are five sizes of standard bear-
ings, marked ”1 ”, ”2”, ”3”, “4,“ and ”5” accordingly.
Number marked
Cylinder block
Crankshaft
Bearing
EXAMPLE: Cylinder block ”2” + Crankshaft ”1”

= Bearing ”T’
(Reference)
Cylinder block main journal bore diameter:
Mark ”1 ” 68.010 – 68.0 16 mm
(2.6776 – 2.6778’in.)
Mark ”2” 68.016 – 68.022 mm
(2.6778 – 2.6780 in.)
Mark ”3” 68.022 – 68.028 mm
(2.6780 – 2.6783 in.)
Crankshaft journal diameter:
Mark ”0” 63.996 – 64.000 mm
(2.5195 – 2.5197 in.)
Mark ”1” 63.990 – 63.996 mm
(2.5193 – 2.5195 in.)
Mark ”2” 63.985 – 63.990 mm
(2.5191 – 2.5193 in.)
Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:
Mark ”1 ” 1.989 – 1.992 mm
(0.0783 – 0.0784 in.)
Mark ”2” 1.992 – 1.995 mm
(0.0784 – 0.0785 in.)
Mark ”3” 1.995 – 1.998 mm
(0.0785 – 0.0787 in.)
Mark ”4” 1.998 – 2.001 mm
(0.0787 – 0.0788 in.)
Mark ”5” 2.001 – 2.004 mm
(0.0788 – 0.0789 in.)
7. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT
(a) Lift out the crankshaft.
(b) Remove the upper main bearings and upper thrust washers
from cylinder block.
HINT: Arrange the main bearings and thrust washers in cor-
rect order.
EM–152
INSPECTION OF CYLINDER BLOCK

the cylinder block surface.
2. CLEAN CYLINDER BLOCK
Using a soft brush and solvent, clean the cylinder block.
3. INSPECT TOP OF CYLINDER BLOCK FOR FLATNESS

Using a –precision straight edge and feeler gauge, measure
the surfaces contacting the cylinder head gasket for warp-
age.
If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the cylinder
block.
4. INSPECT CYLINDER FOR VERTICAL SCRATCHES

Visually check the cylinder for vertical scratches.
If deep scratches are present, rebore all the six cylinders or
replace the cylinder block.
5. INSPECT CYLINDER BORE DIAMETER

HINT: There are three sizes of the standard cylinder bore
diameter, marked ”1 ”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly. The mark is
stamped on the top of the cylinder block.
Using a cylinder gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter
at positions A, B and C in the thrust axial directions.
Standard diameter:
STD mark ”1 ” 87.500 – 87.510 mm
(3.4449 – 3.4453 in.)
STD mark ”2” 87.510 – 87.520 mm
(3.4453 – 3.4457 in.)
STD mark ”3” 87.520 – 87.530 mm
(3.4457 – 3.4461 in.)
Maximum diameter:
STD 87.73 mm (3.4539 in.)
O/S 0.50 88.23 mm (3.4736 in.)
If the diameter is greater than maximum, rebore all the six
cylinders or replace the cylinder block.
EM–153
6. REMOVE CYLINDER RIDGE

If the wear is less than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.), use a ridge ream-
er to machine the piston ring ridge at the top of the cylinder.
DISASSEMBLY OF PISTON AND

1. CHECK FIT BETWEEN PISTON AND PISTON PIN
Try to move the piston back and forth on the piston pin.
If any movement is felt, replace the piston and pin as a set.
2. REMOVE PISTON RINGS

(a) Using a piston ring expander, remove the two compres-
sion rings.
(b) Remove the two side rails and oil ring expander by
hand.
HINT: Arrange the rings in correct order only.
EM–154
ENGINE MECHANICAL – Cylinder Block (2112–FE)
3. DISCONNECT CONNECTING ROD FROM PISTON

Using SST, press out the piston pin from the piston.
SST 09221–25024 (09221–00020, 09221–00030,
09221–00181, 09221–00190, 09221–00200)
HINT:
• The piston and pin are a matched set.
• Arrange the pistons, pins, rings, connecting rods and
bearings in correct order.
INSPECTION OF PISTON AND

1. CLEAN PISTON
(a) Using a gasket scraper, remove the carbon from the piston top.
(b) Using a groove cleaning or broken ring, clean the pis-

ton ring grooves.
(c) Using solvent and a brush, thoroughly clean the piston.

NOTICE: Do not use a wire brush.
EM–155
2. INSPECT PISTON DIAMETER AND OIL CLEARANCE

HINT: There are three sizes of the standard piston diameter,
marked ”1 ”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly. The marked is stamped
on the top of the piston.
(0.9547 in.) from the piston head.
Piston diameter:
STD mark 87.445 87.455 mm
(3.4427 – 3.4431 in.)
STD mark ”2” 87.455 87.465 mm
(3.4431 – 3.. 5 in.)
STD mark ”3” 87.465 – 87.475 mm
(3.4435 – 3.4439 in.)
O/S 0.50 87.945 – 87.975 mm
(3.4624 – 14636 in.)
(b) Measure the cylinder bore diameter in the thrust direc-
tions. (See step 5 on page EM–149)
(c) Subtract the piston diameter measurement from the
cylinder bore diameter measurement.
(0.0018 – 0.0026 in.)
all six pistons. If necessary, rebore all six cylinders or
replace the cylinder block.
HINT (Use cylinder block subassembly): when installing

a standard piston, install one with the same number
mark as the standard bore diameter marked on the cyl-
inder block.
EM–156
3. INSPECT CLEARANCE BETWEEN WALL OF RING

GROOVE AND NEW PISTON RING
Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between new
piston ring and the wall of the piston ring groove.
Ring groove clearance:
No.1 0.010 – 0.080 mm (0.0004 – 0.0031 in.)
No.2 0.030 – 0.070 mm (0.0012 – 0.0028 in.)
If the clearance is greater than maximum, replace the piston.
4. INSPECT PISTON RING END GAP

(a) Insert the piston ring into the cylinder bore.
(b) Using a piston, push the piston ring a little beyond the bot-
tom of the ring travel, 100 mm (3.94 in.) from the top of the
cylinder block.
(c) Using a feeler gauge, measure the end gap.

Standard end gap:
No.1 0.300 0.520 mm
(0.0118 – 0.0205 in.)
No.2 0.350 – 0.600
(0.0138 0.0236 in.)
Oil (Slide rail) 0.200 0.550 mm
(0.0079 0.0217 in.)
Maximum end gap:
No.1 1.12 mm (0.0441 in.)
No.2 1.20 mm (0.0472 in.)
Oil (Slide rail) 1.15 mm (0.0453 in.)
If the end gap is greater than maximum, replace the pis-
ton ring. If the end gap is greater than maximum, even
with a new piston ring, rebore all six cylinders or replace
the cylinder block.
5. INSPECT CONNECTING ROD

Using a rod aligner, check the connecting rod alignment.
• Check for bending.
Maximum bending:
0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) per 100 mm (3.94 in.)
If bent is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod
assembly.
EM–157
• Check for twist.

Maximum twist:
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) per 100 mm (3–94 in.)
If twist is greater than maximum, replace the connecting
rod assembly.
6. INSPECT CONNECTING ROD BOLTS

(a) Install the cap nut to the connecting rod bolt. Check that the
cap nut can be turned easily by hand to the end of the
thread.
(b) If the cap nut cannot be turned easily, measure the outer
diameter of the compressed thread with calipers.
Standard outer diameter: 7.860 – 8.000 mm
(0.3094 – 0.3150 in.)
Minimum outer diameter: 7.60 mm (0.2992 in.)
HINT: If the location of this area cannot be judged by
visual inspection, measure the outer diameter at the loca-
tion shown in the illustration.
If the outer diameter is less than minimum, replace the con-
necting rod bolt and cap nut as a set.
EM–158
BORING OF CYLINDERS
HINT:
• Bore all the six cylinders for the oversized piston outside di-
ameter.
• Replace the piston rings with ones to match the oversized
pistons.
1. KEEP OVERSIZED PISTONS
Oversized piston diameter:
O/S 0.50 87.945 – 87.975 mm
(3.4624 – 3.4636 in.)
2. CALCULATE AMOUNT TO BORE CYLINDER
(0.9547 in.) from the piston head.
(b) Calculate the amount each cylinder is to be rebored as fol-
lows:
Size to be .rebored = P + C – H
P= Piston diameter
C = Piston oil clearance
0.045 – 0.065 mm (0.0018 – 0.0026 in.)
H = Allowance for honing
0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) or less
3. BORE AND HONE CYLINDERS TO CALCULATED
DIMENSIONS
Maximum honing: 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)
NOTICE: Excess honing will destroy the finished round-
ness.
EM–159
INSPECTION AND REPAIR OF

CRANKSHAFT
1. INSPECT CRANKSHAFT FOR RUNOUT
(a) Place the crankshaft on V–blocks.
(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the circle runout at the cen-
ter journal.
If the circle runout is greater than maximum, replace the
crankshaft.
2. INSPECT MAIN JOURNALS AND CRANK PINS
(a) Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each main
journal and crank pin.
Main journal diameter:
STD 63.985 – 64.000 mm
(2.5191 – 2.5197 in.)
U/S 0.25 63.745 – 63.755 mm
(2.5096 – 2.5100 in.)
Crank pin diameter:
STD 47.987 – 48.000 mm .
(1.8892 – 1.8898 in.)
U/S 0.25 47.745 – 47.755 mm
(1.8797 – 1.8801 in.)
If the diameter is not as specified, check the oil clearance
(See pages EM–147 to 150).
(b) Check each main journal and crank pin for taper and out–of–
round as shown.
Maximum taper and out–of–round: 0.42 mm
(0.0008 in.)
If the taper or out–of–round is greater than maximum,
grind or replace the crankshaft.
3. IF NECESSARY, GRIND AND HONE MAIN JOURNALS
AND/OR CRANK PINS
Grind and hone the main journals and/or crank pins to the
finished undersized diameter (See procedure step 2).
Install new main journal and/or crank pin undersized bear-
ings.
EM–160
REPLACEMENT OF CRANKSHAFT OIL

SEALS
HINT: There are two methods (A an B) to replace the oil
seal as follows:
1. REPLACE CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SEAL

A. If Oil Pump 1s removed from cylinder block:
surface is flush with the oil pump case edge.
SST 09309–37010
B. If oil pump is installed to the cylinder block:

(c) Apply IMP grease to a new oil seal lip.

face is flush with the oil pump case edge.
SST 09309–37010
EM–161
2. REPLACE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL

A. If rear oil seal retainer is removed from cylinder block:
surface is flush with the rear oil seal edge.
SST 09223–56010
6. If rear oil seal retainer is installed to cylinder block:


face is flush with the rear oil seal retainer edge.
SST 09223–56010
EM–162
ASSEMBLY OF PISTON AND CONNECTING

ROD ASSEMBLIES
1. ASSEMBLE PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
(a) Align the front marks of the piston and connecting rod.
Connecting rod front (mold) mark:
B6, 1 B, 8A, C3 or etc.
(b) Coat the piston pin and piston hole of the piston with
engine oil. .
(c) Using SST, press in the piston pin.
SST 09221–25024 (09221–00020, 09221–00030,
09221–00181, 09221–00190, 09221–00200)
(d) Check that the piston smoothly moves back and forth
on the piston pin.
2. INSTALL PISTON RINGS

(a) Install the oil ring expander and two side rails by hand.
(b) Using a piston ring expander, install the two com-

pression rings with the code mark facing upward.
Code mark: No.1 T or 1R
No.2 T2 or 2R
(c) Position the piston rings so that the ring ends are as
shown.
NOTICE: Do not align the ring ends.
EM–163
3. INSTALL BEARINGS
(a) Align the bearing claw with the groove of the con–
necting rod or connecting cap.
(b) Install the bearings in the connecting rod and connecting rod
cap.
NOTICE: Install the bearing with the oil hole in the connect-
ing rod.
ASSEMBLY OF CYLINDER BLOCK

(See page EM–139)
HINT:
• Replace all gaskets. 0–rings and oil seals with new parts.
1. INSTALL MAIN BEARINGS

HINT:
• Main bearings come in widths of 20 mm (0.79 in.) and
22 mm (0.87 in.). Install the 22 mm (0.87 in.) bearings in the
No. 1 cylinder block journal position with the main bearing
caps. Install the 20 mm (0.79 in.) bearings in the other posi-
tions.
• Upper bearings have on oil groove and oil holes; lower bear-
ings do not.
(a) Align the bearing claw with the claw groove of the main bear-
ing cap or cylinder block.
(b) Install the bearings in the cylinder block and main bearing
cap.
NOTICE: Install the bearing with the oil hole in the cylinder
block.
2. INSTALL UPPER THRUST WASHERS

Install the thrust washers under the No.2 journal position of
the block with the oil grooves facing outward.
3. PLACE CRANKSHAFT ON CYLINDER BLOCK
EM–164
4. INSTALL MAIN SEARING CAP AND LOWER THRUST

WASHERS
A. Place main bearing cap and lower thrust washers on
cylinder block.
(a) Install the thrust washers on the No. 2 journal position of the
bearing cap with the grooves facing outward.
(b) Install the main bearing cap with the front mark facing
forward.
6. Install main bearing cap bolts

HINT:
• The main bearing cap bolts are tightened in two progressive
steps.
• If any the main bearing cap bolt is broken or deformed,
replace it.
heads of the main bearing caps.
(b) 1st, install and uniformly tighten the eight main bearing cap
If any one of the main bearing cap bolts does not meet the
torque specification, replace the cap bolt.
(c) Mark the front of the connecting rod cap nut with paint.
(c) 2nd, retighten the main bearing cap bolts 90° and angle
to the front.
(f) Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
(g) Check the crankshaft thrust clearance.
EM–165
5. INSTALL PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLIES
(a) Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of hose
to protect the crankshaft from damage.
(b) Using a piston ring compressor, push the correctly

numbered piston and connecting rod assemblies
into each cylinder with the front mark of the piston
facing forward.
6. INSTALL CONNECTING ROD CAPS

A. Place connecting rod cap on connecting rod
(a) Match the numbered connecting rod cap with the connect-
ing rod.
(b) Install the connecting rod cap with the front mark facing for-
ward.
B. Install connecting rod cap nuts

HINT:
• The connecting rod cap nuts are tightened in two progres-
sive steps.
• If any the connecting rod bolt is broken or deformed, replace
them.
(a) Apply a light of engine oil on the threads and under the nuts
of the connecting rod cap.
(b) 1st, using SST, install and alternately tighten the nuts of the
connecting rod cap in several passes.
SST 09011–38121
Torque: 250 kg–cm(18 ft–Ib, 25 N–m)
If any one of the connecting rod cap nuts does not meet
the torque specification, replace the cap nut.
(c) Mark the front of the connecting rod cap nut with paint.
EM–166
(d) 2nd, retighten the connecting rod cap nuts 90° in the numeri-
cal order shown.
(e) Check that the painted mark is now at a 90° angle to the front.
(f) Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
(g) Check the connecting rod thrust clearance.
7. INSTALL REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER

(a) Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not
to drop any oil on the contact surface of the retainer and
cylinder block.
• Using a razor blade an gasket scraper, remove all the old
packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces and seal-
ing groove.
• Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose ma-
terial.
• Using a non–residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.
(b) Apply seal packing to the retainer as shown in the figure.
• Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 2 – 3 mm
(0.08 – 0.12 in.) opening.
HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.
• Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of
application. Otherwise the material must be removed and
reapplied.
• Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.
(c) Install the retainer with the six bolts.
EM–167
POST ASSEMBLY
1. INSTALL NO. 2 IDLER PULLEY BRACKET
Install the pulley bracket with the three bolts. Torque the
bolts.
2. INSTALL WATER BY–PASS PIPE

(a) Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not
to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the bypass pipe
and cylinder block.
• Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old
packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces and seal-
ing groove.
• Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose
material.
• Using a non–residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.
(b) Apply seal packing to the groove of the by–pass pipe.
• Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 2 – 3 mm
(0.08 0.12 in.) opening.
HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.
• Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of application.
Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
• Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.
(c) Install the by–pass pipe with the two bolts and two nuts.
3. INSTALL KNOCK SENSOR

Using SST, install the knock sensor.
SST 09816–30010
EM–168
4. INSTALL OIL FILTER (See page LU–7)

5. INSTALL OIL PUMP AND OIL PAN
(See page LU–14)
6. INSTALL WATER PUMP (See page CO–6)
7. INSTALL CYLINDER HEADS
(See pages EM–96 to 106)
8. INSTALL PULLEYS AND TIMING BELT
(See pages EM–42 to 47)
9. INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR (See page IG–19)
10. REMOVE ENGINE STAND
11. INSTALL REAR END PLATE
Install the end plate with the bolt.
12. (M/T)
INSTALL FLYWHEEL
(a) Apply adhesive to two or three threads of the mount bolt
end.
Adhesive: Part No. 08833–00070, THREE BOND
1324 or equivalent
(b) Install the flywheel on the crankshaft.

(c) Install and uniformly tighten the eight mount bolts in
several passes, in the sequence shown.
13. (A/T)
INSTALL DRIVE PLATE (See procedure step 12)
14. (M/T)
INSTALL CLUTCH DISC AND COVER
EM–169
INSTALLATION OF ENGINE
1. ASSEMBLE ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE
2. (A/T)
INSTALL STARTER
3. INSTALL ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY IN

VEHICLE
(a) Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers.
(b) Lower the engine into the engine compartment. Tilt the
transaxle downward, lower the engine and clear the LH
mounting.
NOTICE: Be careful not to hit the PS gear housing or neu-
tral start switch.
(c) Keep the engine level, and align RH and LH mounting with
the body bracket.
(d) Attach the RH mounting insulator to the mounting

bracket and body, and temporarily install the bolt and
four nuts.
(e) Temporarily install the No. 2 mounting stay bolt (A).
M Install the LH mounting bracket to the transaxle

case with the three bolts. Torque the bolts.
Attach the LH mounting insulator to the mounting brack-
et with the three bolts, and install and torque the four
bolts and through bolt.
Torque:
Through bolt 890 kg–cm (64 ft–Ib, 87 N–m)
EM–170
(h) Torque the bolt and four nuts of the RH mounting insula-
tor. Do not torque the bolt (A) yet.
Torque:
Bolt– 650 kg–cm (47 ft–Ib, 64 N–m)
Nut To bracket 530 kg–cm (38 ft–Ib, 52 N–m)
To body 900 kg–cm (65 ft–Ib, 88 N–m)
(i) Remove the engine hoist chain from the engine.
(w/ A.B.S..)
Install the two clamp bolts of the PS oil cooler pipes.
4. INSTALL ENGINE RH MOUNTING STAYS

(a) Install the No. 1 mounting stay with the three bolts.
Torque the bolts.
(b) Install the No. 2 mounting stay with the bolt and nut.
Torque the bolt and nut.
Torque:
Nut 530 kg–cm (38 ft–lb, 52 N–m)
5. INSTALL ENGINE LH MOUNTING STAY

(M /T)
Install the mounting stay with the bolt and two nuts.
Torque the bolt and nuts.
Torque: Nut 530 kg–cm (38 ft–1b, 52 N–m)
(A/T)
Install the mounting stay with the three nuts. Torque the
nuts.
Torque: 12 mm nut 210 kg–cm (15 ft–Ib, 21 N–m)
14 mm nut 530 kg–cm (38 ft–Ib, 52 N–m)

Install the reservoir tank with the two bolts. Connect the
ground strap.
EM–171
7. INSTALL FRONT ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET AND

INSULATOR
Torque the bolts.
bolt and a new nut.
8. INSTALL CENTER ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET

AND INSULATOR ASSEMBLY
Install the mounting bracket and insulator assembly with the
three bolts. Torque the bolts.
9. INSTALL REAR ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET AND

INSULATOR
Torque the bolts.
bolt and a new nut.
10. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING CENTER MEMBER

(a) Install the engine mounting center member with the four
bolts. Torque the bolts.
(b) Install and torque the four bolts and two nuts holding the insu-
lators (front, center and rear) to the center member.
(c) Torque the mounting insulator through bolts (front and rear).
Torque: 895 kg–cm–(64 ft–lb, 87 N–m)
11. INSTALL PS PUMP
12. INSTALL DRIVE SHAFTS
13. (w/ A/C)
INSTALL A/C COMPRESSOR
(a) Install the compressor with the four bolts.
(b) Connect the two connectors.
EM–172

(a) Place two new gaskets on the front pipe.
(b) Install the front pipe with the two bolts and five new nuts.
Torque the nuts.
Torque:
To manifold 630 kg–cm (46 ft–Ib, 62 N–m)
To converter 440 kg–cm (32 t–Ib, 43 N–m)
(c) Install the two pipe stay bolts.

Install the crossmember with the two bolts and two nuts.
Torque the bolts and nuts.
16. CONNECT ENGINE WIRE TO CABIN

(a) Push in the engine wire through the cowl panel.
(b) Connect the following connectors.
(c) Install the glove compartment box.
(d) Install the under cover.
17. CONNECT TRANSAXLE CONTROL CABLE(S)
18. CONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE
19. (M /T)
INSTALL CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER AND TUBE
CLAMP
20. (M /T)
INSTALL STARTER
21. CONNECT FUEL HOSES

22. CONNECT HEATER HOSES
23. CONNECT GROUND STRAP TO TRANSAXLE
EM–173
24. CONNECT VACUUM HOSES

(a) Brake booster vacuum hose to air intake chamber
(b) A/C idle–up vacuum hose to air intake chamber
(c) A/C idle–up vacuum hose to vacuum pipe (on air intake
chamber)
(d) Charcoal canister vacuum hose to vacuum pipe (on air in-
take chamber)
25. CONNECT WIRES AND CONNECTORS
(a) Check connector
(b) Ground straps from OH fender apron
26. INSTALL AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY

(a) Install the air cleaner case with the three bolts.
(b) Install the air cleaner element.
(c) Connect the air cleaner hose, and Install the air cleaner cap
and air flow meter assembly with the four clips.
(d) Connect the following connector and hoses:
(1) Air flow meter connector
(2) ISC valve air hose
(3) Vacuum pipe air hose
INSTALL CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR
(w/ A. B. S. )
(a) Install the vacuum pump and bracket with the three bolts.
(b) Connect the vacuum pump connector.
(c) Install the actuator and bracket with the four bolts.
(d) Connect the following hoses and connector:
(1) Actuator vacuum hoses
(3) Install the dust cover.
EM–174
(w/o A.B.S..)
(a) Install the actuator, vacuum pump and vacuum switch
assembly with the three bolts.
(b) Connect the following the hose and connectors:
(1) Actuator vacuum hose from air intake chamber
(3) Vacuum pump connector
(4) Vacuum switch connector
28. (A/T)
INSTALL THROTTLE CABLE, AND ADJUST IT
31. INSTALL ALTERNATOR BELT ADJUSTING BAR
33. INSTALL RADIATOR (See page CO–20)
34. INSTALL IGNITION COIL, IGNITER AND BRACKET AS-
SEMBLY
(a) Install the ignition coil, igniter and bracket assembly with the
two bolts.
(b) Connect the following cord and connectors:
(1) Igniter connector
(2) Noise filter connector
(3) High–tension cord
35. INSTALL BATTERY

Connect the grand strap.
M /T 9.5 liters (10.0 US qts, 8.4 Imp. qts)
A/T 9.4 liters (9.9 US qts, 8.3 Imp. qts)
37. FILL WITH ENGINE OIL (See page LU–8)
Capacity:
Drain and refill
w/ Oil filter –change
w/o Oil filter change
Dry fill 4.6 liters (4.8 US qts, 4.0 Imp. qts)
EM–175

(a) Adjust the alternator drive belt.
(See page CH–3)
(b) Adjust PS pump drive belt.
(c) Adjust the ignition timing.
(See page IG–21 )
Ignition timing:
10°BTDC @ idle
(d) Adjust the valve clearance.
Valve clearance:
Intake 0.13 – 0.23 mm (0. 005 – 0.009 in.)
Exhaust 0.27 – 0.37 mm l0.011 – 0.015 in.)
40. INSTALL HOOD
42. RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT AND ENGINE OIL
LEVELS

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EM–1

ENGINE MECHANICAL 3S-FE 2VZ

Check compression EM–22

ROUGH IDLING (Cont’d)

ENGINE HESITATES/POOR ACCELERATION

AFTER FIRE, BACKFIRE

Muffler explosion Air cleaner clogged Check air cleaner MA–5

EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION

ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE CLEARANCE

2. SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION

3. ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE

(d) Remove the adjusting shim.

• Remove the adjusting shim with a small screwdriv-

(e) Determine the replacement adjusting shim size by fol-

(f) Install a new adjusting shim.

4. REINSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER

Adjusting Shim Selection Using Chart

New shim thickness mm (in.)

Intake valve clearance (Cold):

Adjusting Shim Selection Using Chart

Measured Installed shim thickness

New shim thickness mm (in.)

Exhaust valve clearance:

ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE CLEARANCE

3. SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDCI COMPRESSION

4. ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE

(c) Turn the crankshaft a further 2I3 of a revolution

(d) Remove the adjusting shim.

• Remove the adjusting shim with a small screw-

(e) Determine the replacement adjusting shim size by following

Adjusting Shim Selection Using Chart

Installed shim thickness (mm)

New shim thickness mm (in.)

Intake valve clearance (Cold):

Adjusting Shim Selection Using Chart

Installed Shim thickness (mm)

New shim thickness mm (in.)

Exhaust valve clearance:

ADJUSTMENT OF IGNITION TIMING

(b) Check the idle speed.

(d) Remove SST.

IDLE AND OR 2,500 RPM HC CO

4. INSERT HC/CO METER TESTING PROBE INTO

High Low Rough idle 1. Vacuum leak:

High High Rough idle 1. Restricted air filter

TIMING BELT (3S–FE)

REMOVAL OF TIMING BELT

9. SLIGHTLY JACK UP ENGINE

12. REMOVE No.2 TIMING BELT COVER

13. SET NO.1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION

14. REMOVE TIMING BELT FROM CAMSHAFT TIMING

15. REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY

16. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

(b) Using SST, remove the pulley.

17. REMOVE NO.1 TIMING BELT COVER

18. REMOVE TIMING BELT AND BELT GUIDE

19. REMOVE NO.1 IDLER PULLEY AND TENSION SPRING