Classic Lash Manual

“
In life you have
two choices,
become an

”
entrepreneur or
work for one.
 Table of Contents
Introduction & Learning Objectives 2
What are Classic Eyelash Extensions? 3
Different Lash Types 3
Lash Curls, Thicknesses, Lengths and Lash Direction 4
Related Anatomy & Physiology 6
Contra-indications & Contra-actions 8
Health & Safety 11
Adhesives 13
Stickies 14
Lash Maps 16
Oh Beaut Striplash Classic Set Lash Map 18
Eye Styles 19
Consultation Techniques 22
Treatment Preparation, Sterilisation Methods & Hygiene 27
Treatment Procedure & Full Step by Step Guide 30
After Care 32
Lash Removal 34
Oh Beauts Top Tips For A Successful Set 35
Wrap Up! 36
Classic Lash Product List 37

W W W. O H B E A U T. C O M | @ O H B E A U T L A S H

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 Introduction &
learning objectives

First and foremost, congratulations lash beauts! You have officially taken your first step into
your amazing new lash career and are on the way to becoming a Fully Accredited Eyelash
Technician.

This manual has been made by myself to ensure I have captured every single piece of
information I feel you need to know to smash it in the lash industry. Please take notes as
you make your way through the manual of anything you’re unsure of, or would like to ask
questions about on the training day.

Beginning a career in lashes is more than just a new role, you more than likely will be your
own boss and therefor may be entering the incredible world of self-employment for the first
time.

The skills you are about to learn have the power to provide you a whole new lease of
freedom, open numerous opportunities and teach you so much along the way.

Paired with the Oh Beaut Lash Bible, your Classic Lash Manual holds all of the information
required to become a successful lash technician and build your very own business from
scratch.

There are many different types of eyelash extension methods, the main ones used are
Classic, Hybrid, Russian and Bottom lashes. Most lash techs begin their journey learning
the Classic lash application then once they feel confident will go on to train in Russian and
Bottom lashes. Hybrid lashes do not require an accredited course, they are simply a mixture
of using Classic lashes and Russian lashes together to create one set, normally with a 50/50
split.

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 What are Classic
Eyelash Extensions?

Let’s talk basics. When we refer to classic lashes, we mean the technique and lash type used
when applying the lashes. In this case, the method where one individual lash extension is
applied to one individual natural lash, you may also here it referred to as the 1-2-1 method.

Classic lashes are where the majority of lash technicians and also clients begin their lash
journey. In a nutshell, they are your go to when it comes to introducing a client to lashes,
or achieving a natural look whilst still adding length and darkness to the lashes. You will
normally find that Classic lashes come in either Mink, Silk or Cashmere.

Different Lash Types

Silk:
Silk are synthetic lashes that generally have more of a shine to them, are also slightly heavier
than Mink lashes and are a little more glam due to the shine.

Mink:
Mink are also synthetic lashes, however these have a matte appearance and in general are
lighter than Silk lashes, making them a more natural lash appearance.

Flat lashes:
Also referred to as Cashmere lashes. You’ll find that these lashes are soft touch, very light
at the tip and generally wider at the base. Most flat lashes are designed to hold longer
retention.

Real Mink:
It is rare, however you may come across some lash brands which offer Real Mink Fur lashes.
Real Mink is super soft and lightweight, although be sure to make your clients aware if you
are going to use real fur.

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 Lash Curls, Thicknesses,
Lengths and Lash Direction

Curls
Eyelash Extensions come in numerous different curls, J, B, C,D,DD+,L,L+ all designed to
suit the clients eye shape and what style they have in mind. The most commonly used,
especially here at Oh Beaut are D, DD+, L and B. You will find that lash curls vary brand to
brand, so you may order a D curl from one brand and a D curl from another brand, yet one
be slightly curlier to the other. You just need to experiment and find your feet when trying
out new brands. Once you find a brand you love you’ll know what their own curls are like
and how they vary.

J Curl B Curl C Curl D Curl L Curl L+ Curl U Curl

Mimicking the This curls bend These lashes This curl brings Ideal for straight Also ideal for With a
natural shape falls between give clients a on the drama. or downward straight or curvature of
of eyelashes, the J and C bright, wide-eye Used to create sloping lashes, downward 180 degrees,
these straighter curls, and is effect without the illusion of or for clients sloping lashes, this lash is
extensions typically used looking too a bigger eye, with hooded or for clients the curliest
have a slight for the inner heavy or the D Curl eyelids, this curl with hooded extension type
curvature at the corners of the dramatic. C is typically gives natural- eyelids, L+ or “L and creates
tip and lend a eye and bottom Curls tend to be blended with looking lift and Lift” Curls offer a dramatic
more natural row of lashes. blended with other curls for has a straight a more dramatic effect, open-eye
appearance. B Curls are a other curls for texturizing. Be base that allows looking lift than effect. However,
Hoonakker popular choice texturizing. forewarned: for a stronger, L, and tend because they
notes that with to blend with C Hoonakker Due to the longer bond. to resemble a curl back upon
all of the other Curls to create shares that lash degree of the C Curl with a themselves,
options of curls texture and lift. artists favor the curl, these straight base. they tend to
available, the J C Curl because lashes tend not touch the eyelid,
curl has fallen it appeals to to last long on which can be
out of favor both young and straight natural irritating for
with most lash middle-aged lashes so map some wearers.
artists. demographics. accordingly. If clients have
heavy lids, use a
shorter length U
Curl.

*TOP TIP – Although there are a couple of different ways to attach the eyelash extension to
the natural lash, no matter what curl above you are using it is best to attach the extensions
from underneath the natural lash. (we will go over the different methods during practical)

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Thicknesses
As well as varied curls, Classic lashes also come in varied thicknesses/diameters, the most
common being 0.15mm, 0.20mm and 0.25mm. The diameter refers to the thickness or
width of the base of the extension in millimetres. I personally only prefer to work with
0.15mm and 0.20mm when it comes to Classic lashes as I find that 0.25mm can be too
bulky on the natural lash.

0.15mm
• Finer/lighter
• Perfect for achieving a natural look
• Great for naturally fine lashes
• Ideal for use on a client’s first ever set

0.20mm
• More defined than 0.15mm
• Appear Darker
• For a bolder set of lashes

Lengths
The most common lengths are between 8mm-15mm, however you will find lengths varying
from anywhere between 6-20mm across numerous brands. It is super important that
you are aware of the Golden Rule – the extension should be no more than 2-3mm longer
than your clients natural lash. An average healthy set of natural lashes tend to be between
8-14mm long, so in this case the longest extension you should apply would be 17mm on the
natural 14mm lash. I cannot stress enough how important this is, the health of your client’s
natural lashes should be your top priority. Why is this important? You want them to last.
Anything that is too thick or too long will not last and will cause damage to your client’s
natural lashes. – news of bad application and/or damage to lashes spreads fast, and trust me,
you don’t want your name or brand attached to that.

Lash Direction
Have you ever seen a set of eyelash extensions that look criss-crossed and messy? Not only
is this unappealing to the eye, but it can also be painful and uncomfortable for the client. To
ensure this never happens you must always concentrate on correct lash direction.
Correct lash direction is what gives the look of a neat and tidy lash line. To follow lash
direction simply apply the false lash at a 90 degree angle between the skin of the eyelid and
the lash extension – if you were wanting to achieve a cat eye effect you can apply the false
lash at a 60-70 degree angle on the outer corners to create that outer corner flick.

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 related anatomy &
physiology

Lashes have a life cycle consisting of three phases: The Growth Phase (Anagen), The
Transition phase (Catagen) and The Resting/Shedding Phase (Telogen). It is important
to know the lash cycle. This is information which should be passed on to your clients to
explain how the shedding process works, and why they may find some infills shed more
than others. – this is your key knowledge when faced with a client confused about why
the retention varies perhaps from their infills with yourself or between yourself and their
previous lash techs.

Lash Cycle

Anagen Catagen Telogen Anagen

Growth Phase Transition Phase Resting Phase Cycle Begins Again

The Growth Phase

How long the Anagen phase lasts is determined genetically and varies between the sexes
and from one person to another. It usually lasts between 30-45 days. If all your lashes were
in the growth phase at the same time, then they’d all be on track to fall out at the same
time. Approximately 40% of upper lashes and 15% of lower lashes are in the growth stage at
any given time. This is key to note that every lash is on a different phase so if your client is
experiencing shedding more in one area to another this could be a reason why.

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The Transition Phase
The growth phase is followed by a short transition phase, also known as Catagen. Once
lashes in the growth phase reach their designated length, they stop growing, the hair follicle
shrinks, and they move on to this transition phase. This phase lasts between 2-3 weeks (14-
21 days). The base of the lash follicle moves upwards towards the surface of the skin.

The Resting/Shedding Phase

The resting/shedding phase is also known as Telogen. This phase lasts 3-4 months. During
this time, a new hair begins to grow from the hair follicle. As it grows upwards, the old
hair will shed naturally or may be pulled out. Shedding is part of the normal process of the
replacement of an old lash with a new one. The new lash emerges from the same opening
at the surface of the skin as the old one, and then the lash cycle begins back at the Anagen
phase again.

In general, lashes have a lifespan of about three months but can last more than 100 days
before the lash falls out, and a new one begins to grow. Because each individual lash is in
its own phase of the growth cycle, it’s normal for a few lashes to fall out most days. Use the
above to explain to your clients the importance of the shedding cycle, why it is happening
and how it affects their extensions. They may wake up one morning and notice a couple
of lashes have fallen out and contact you, so remember to inform them that this is the
shedding phase and that each of their lashes is at a different phase of the natural lash cycle.
Note that it may not always be down to the lash cycle why lashes are shedding, if numerous
lashes are coming out it could be numerous things such as old adhesive, not applying the
lash quick enough so the adhesive cured before applying it, the client picking, use of oil
products etc. It is almost impossible to know the reason why as are not aware of how clients
look after their lashes at home, as long as you make them aware of all the reasons why then
you have done the best you possibly can.

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 Contra-indications
& Contra-actions

When beginning the consultation between yourself and the client, you must first discuss
any contra-indications or possible contra-actions. Simply put, anything which may prevent
the service from happening OR something that may happen as a result of the service.

Contra-indications
What is a contra-indication? - The presence of a condition which may make the client
unsuitable for a treatment. The treatment may not be able to take place OR the treatment
may need to be adapted. To help you remember, the definition of the word ‘indication’ is ‘ a
symptom that suggests certain medical treatment is necessary’.

Should a client know they may have the presence of a condition which may prevent the
service from being performed they must bring it to your attention on the relevant section
of the consultation form. However, if when treating a client they show signs of a contra-
indication, tactfully refer them to their GP for treatment/advice. NEVER tell your client
what contra-indication they may have, even if you are sure you know what it is. You may be
wrong, and this could cause unnecessary distress and worry for the client.

If you are ever unsure about a contra-indication then do not treat the client, refer them to
their GP. This way you are always protecting yourself and the client. If you do feel the client
has/had a contraindication, it is important that once you have stopped the service that you
fully disinfect any tools used to prevent cross contamination between clients and yourself.
(tools should be disinfected between every single client regardless.)

Contra-indications for eye treatments may be things such as;

Allergic Conjunctivitis
This is when eyes are exposed to allergens such as pets, hay fever, dust etc, as a result the
eyes can become watery, red and itchy. It’s completely dependent on the client and their
sensitivity. If your client has an allergic reaction, their eyes will be sensitive to everything,
including things they aren’t usually sensitive to. For example, you may have a client who’s
lashes you have been doing for a year but when they have an active allergic reaction to
an allergen such as one above, by then exposing their eyes to a foreign substance such as
eyelash extension products, it will most likely will enhance their allergy symptoms. It’s
better to be safe than sorry and just wait for their allergy symptoms to calm down. – they
will thank you for it later!

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 Blepharitis
Bad hygiene, allergies, mites, dandruff, and certain
medications cause lash follicles to be inflamed. If a
client’s lash follicles are inflamed, lash extensions are
just going to make it worse. Suggest the client see a
doctor and wait to apply lashes until the inflammation
has surpassed. You don’t want to irritate the client’s eyes
more and you definitely don’t want an angry, upset client
on your hands.

Conjunctivitis
This is a common infection that inflames the conjunctiva of the eye, which can cause the
eye to turn pink or in some cases red. Commonly known as pink eye. This infection is easily
spread, so avoid applying lashes.

Sty
A bacterial infection of the sebaceous glands causes
a red, painful bump or an inflamed area of the eye.
Eyelash extensions are just going to irritate the infection
more, so wait to apply the extensions. Again, it’s better
to be safe than sorry, and the last thing you want to do is
irritate your client’s eyes more.

Contact lenses
Eyelash extensions are typically safe to wear with contact lenses, and it is up to your client
if they wish to remove them before the service (make sure they tick whether or not they are
going to on the client consultation card). It is recommended to take them out if your client
has sensitive eyes as in rare cases the fumes from the eyelash extension adhesive can get
trapped underneath your contact lens, increasing sensitivity and irritability.

So for example, a contra-indication that would fully prevent the eyelash service from being
performed would be Conjunctivitis, this would mean you could NOT go ahead with the
service as this is a highly infectious disease which is spread from person to person by close
contact, not only this but could cause the clients infection to worsen. You then have a
contra-indication whereby the service can still go ahead, such as contact lenses. You would
simply ask your client to remove his/her contact lenses and proceed with the service as
normal.

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Contra-actions
What is a contra-action? - A contra-action is a reaction caused as a result of a service/
treatment taking place.

You must explain to your client what/if any reactions to expect during/after a treatment (try
to cover this with your aftercare card/a follow up email.) With all contra-actions tell your
client that if they do not improve within 24 hours to get in touch with their GP for advice.

Contra-actions for eye treatments may be;

Slight Swelling
Tender/puffiness on the eyelid or surrounding areas (inform client that it should calm down
in a few days, apply cold compress when necessary).

Erythema
Reddening of the skin due to the dilation of
the blood vessels (inform client that it should
calm down after settling for a few days).

Allergic reaction
Redness, medium irritation and inflamed
swelling to the eye area (remove product
from the eye, recommend antihistamines or
antibiotics from the doctor and apply cool
compress for a few days).

Stinging/Burning
Due to products such as primer/remover getting into the eye (remove product immediately
and rinse with distilled water. If the eyelash remover gets into a client’s eye this can be very
painful, the best thing to do is try to get your client to remain calm. If your client sits up
and is squinting or opening her eyes this will cause the eyes to water and therefore allow
more of the product to run into the eye. Ask your client to lie back down, try to relax her
eyes and then remove a cold compress whilst gently/quickly removing the product.)

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 Health & safety

There are a few scenarios such as the below where you need to be prepared and know what
to do.

Reactions/discomfort during the treatment

If you accidentally use too much product, or your client is moving too much, you may
find yourself in a scenario where Adhesive, Primer or Remover accidentally seeps into the
client’s eye. It is very rare for adhesive to enter the eye, however primer and removers are
more common to cause discomfort.

Should any of the above seep into the clients eye first of all make sure that you remain calm,
then quickly remove any excess product, hold a cold compress such as a damp cotton wool
pad (be sure not to be too damp as this may cause the product to seep further into the
eye) whilst also holding your mini hand fan onto the eye/eyes. If after a few seconds the
discomfort is not calming down, rinse the eye immediately using clean water. Repeat until
the discomfort has settled.

Top tip: Use cream removers to help prevent the product seeping into the eye. If you use a
liquid remover this often happens. When applying primer always use your mini hand fan to
help prevent any stinging. Use of a mini fan during any sort of stinging works a treat.

Allergic reactions
When it comes to allergic reactions, I divide them into two. You can have some cases where
someone is actually allergic to the product used OR where someone has a reaction due to
poor application.

Allergic reaction – Usually takes up to 24 hours to occur, swelling and inflammation of the
upper eyelid, soreness, redness.

Reaction – Usually seen/felt immediately after the service, redness and bloodshot eyes,
soreness of the eyes.

It is quite rare that allergic reactions happen but when they do it’s usually one of the
following; Someone who has previously had an allergic reaction which the likelihood is
that they will again and I would advise recommending the to wait a few years before trying
again or more often than not it’s actually clients who have had eyelash extensions for a long
time all of a sudden become allergic.

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Although you cannot prevent an allergic reaction from happening, the best way to
minimise any reactions from occurring are;

1. To ensure you are using minimal glue, this is as excessive glue can let off excessive
fumes which may get into and irritate the eye causing redness and soreness.

2. To make sure that your client’s eyes are fully closed throughout the treatment.
You may notice on some clients when they talk that their eyes open. In scenario you
can either place micropore tape across the lids to help keep them closed, or I would
recommend asking your clients to refrain from talking throughout the service and
inform them of the reasons why.

3. Make sure you are sticking to the 1mm rule. Lashes applied to close to the lash line
can cause serious irritation.

If the day after treatment your client gets in touch asking what has happened or what to do
ask them the following questions and if your client answers “yes” to more than two of these
questions advise them to go to their doctor.

1. Are you experiencing any discomfort?

2. Are you experiencing burning or itching around your lash line?

3. Are you noticing redness and swelling around your lash line?

4. Is your lash line inflamed?

We can only give clients advice to alleviate MILD discomfort and reactions, not medical
advice. In these rare situations, it is best that they see a medical professional if the
discomfort, irritation, redness, and swelling is severe and/or persists more than 48 hours.

*TOP TIP – Benadryl is a lifesaver for clients with adhesive sensitivity.

W W W. O H B E A U T. C O M | @ O H B E A U T L A S H

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 adhesives

Understanding adhesives is one of the most important key points when it comes to
lashing. Using the wrong adhesive for your needs or storing your adhesive incorrectly can
contribute to retention problems = client complaints. So let’s make sure you are totally clued
up to prevent this from happening.

Cyanoacrylate is a word that you will become very familiar with and is often the reason
clients may react to lash extensions. Cyanoacrylate is a chemical found in most lash
adhesives that polymerises when it comes into contact with the air. In normal English this
means once you have poured your glue out onto your jade stone or glue ring, that once it
comes into contact with any moisture in the air it forms a chemical reaction causing the
glue to solidify and cure. Once the glue begins the process of curing it results in a weaker
bond between the false lash and the natural lash, so basically make sure you are refreshing
your glue in accordance to the supplier guidelines before it gets to this stage to keep lashes
lasting as long as possible.

Every adhesive works differently and is designed with different features In mind such as
having a faster or slower curing time, or for a higher or lower humidity. The majority of
adhesives work best in 30%-50% humidity. If your humidity is too high, your adhesive will
get gooey/stringy due to its chemical reaction to the moisture in the air (high humidity)
and will cause a weak bond between the false and natural lash, resulting in bad retention.
So, the moral of the story is try to always keep the humidity in your room between 30-50%
so that your glue works at its very best. To keep the humidity at a certain range I highly
recommend getting a humidifier that you can set at a certain percentage. I don’t believe that
humidity readers give accurate readings but trust me you will be able to tell if the humidity
isn’t right as your glue will cure and get gloopy faster than it should. Most adhesives
recommend you refresh every 15-30 mins so if it’s getting gloopy before this there is too
much moisture in the air. The best adhesives can be expensive, but they are one of the most
important items in your kit.

“Remember, high humidity speeds up the curing process for eyelash extension
glues. In high humidity, any glue will cure up to 2 times faster than its original
curing speed. (If you find the glue is curing too fast (low humidity) place a water
droplet on the under eye pad. This will help to put some moisture in the air.)”

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 Stickies

Stickies are when two lashes next to each other have accidentally been glued together. There
are two types of what we lash tech’s call ‘stickies’ which you must be aware of and know how
to fix. Seriously, this is something you need to be hot on. Have you ever had your lashes
done and felt so much discomfort it made you want to pick? Like they are pulling on your
lashes? Or leaning another way? This is more than likely down to stickies. Not only are they
painful but they also cause damage to the natural lashes. Every 30minutes and at the end of
each set you must be checking for stickies. So what types do we have;

Type 1: The Neighbour Lash

This is when one or more lashes next to each other have been stuck together. The cause?
Usually when lashes have been applied too quickly next to each other and the adhesive has
not had time to cure before it attaches itself to the neighbouring lash.

How to fix it: If you find a sticky, using volume tweezers (these have the best grip to pre-
vent pulling on the natural lash) hold one of the lashes at the route and simply use the other
tweezer to banana peel the other lash gently from the tip downwards off the other lash.
Picture it like peeling a banana, you are going to be slowly pulling from the top down to
separate the two lashes.

Type 2. The Baby Lash

The baby lash is when a teeny tiny little lash which is often too fair or small to see, decides
to stick itself to the adult lash next to it. Unlike the neighbouring lash, the baby lash can
sometimes create a loop at the base as it’s so small, rather than sticking vertically next to the
adult lash.

How to fix it: Follow the same method as above however If you find a baby lash looping,
using volume tweezers hold the adult lash at the route and simply use the other tweezer to
try to unloop the baby lash from the adult lash. Remember you don’t want to be pulling on
any of the natural lashes as this will be uncomfortable for the client, try to prevent the lash-
es from moving as much as possible.

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“ ”
Ain’t no reward
without risk.
 Lash Maps

What are lash maps?

When we refer to Lash maps we are referring to a guide of what lengths and curls to apply
and where, in order to create a certain lash look. By drawing out your lash map it enables
you to apply each lash length or curl in the right section and ensures even work across
both eyes. Once you get used to the generic, most used lash maps you will tend to be able
to visualise the lash map in your head rather than having to write it down, that being said
I know many lash techs who still after years prefer to have it written out in front of them –
whatever works best for you!

When starting out with lashes you tend to use either a Cat-Eye lash map, or a Doll Eye lash
map. These are the two most used lash maps and are normally the base for any fancy style
you may wish to progress to train in at a later date, such as a wispy or striplash set.

Cat Eye Doll Eye

Suitable for: Suitable for:

• Clients that desire that feline/winged • Younger clients.
effect . • Clients with wide set eyes (draws the
• Clients with close‐set eyes (draws the eyes closer together).
eyes apart). • Creating the illusion of an open eye.
• Clients that like a lot of length
Unsuitable for: throughout the lash line.
• Clients with very wide set eyes (makes
eyes look wider). Unsuitable for:
• Clients with round eyes (makes eyes
look rounder).
• Clients with weak inner and outer
(long lengths damage weak inners and
outers).

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 Oh Beaut Lash Maps

The below are my go-to lash maps for all my clients, feel free to use any curl for any of the
below depending on how natural or glam your client would like.

Doll Eye Cat Eye

NATURAL LASH MAPS

DOLL EYE - 8mm-10mm-12mm-13mm-12mm-10mm-8mm
CAT EYE – 8mm-9mm-10mm-11mm-12mm-13mm

MEDIUM LASH MAPS

DOLL EYE – 10mm-12mm-13mm-14mm-15mm-14mm-13mm-12mm-10mm
CAT EYE – 10mm-12mm-13mm-14mm-15mm

GLAM LASH MAPS

DOLL EYE – 10mm-12mm-13mm-15mm-16mm-15mm-13mm-12mm-10mm
CAT EYE – 10mm-12mm-13mm-14mm-15mm-16mm

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 Oh Beaut Striplash
Classic Set Lash Map

If you are feeling brave I have included an advanced Oh Beaut Striplash lash map which is
normally used when applying Russian Volume lashes, but can be applied to Classic lashes to
help spice up your sets.

Doll Eye Cat Eye

OH BEAUT STRIPLASH CLASSIC SET LASH MAP

DOLL EYE - 10mm-13mm-12mm-15mm-13mm-16mm-14mm-16mm-14mm-15mm-
13mm-14mm-12mm-13mm-10mm
CAT EYE - 10mm-13mm-12mm-15mm-13mm-16mm- 14mm-17mm-15mm

All pink lengths to be one curl curlier than the main curl used in the rest of the set. For
example, if you were using D curl for the full set, apply the pink lengths in a DD+ curl.

When working with a lash map, or even without, I would recommend always working
across both eyes at the same time. By working on both eyes at the same time this allows
time for the previous lash applied to dry whilst you are then applying one lash to the other
eye. If you were to work on the same eye it increases your chance of stickies (when two
or more lashes stick together due to the glue not being cured fully). You will see many
lash techs do work by applying one eye then the other, but another reason to work across
both at the same time is that if for any reason the appointment was needed to be cut short,
your client would be leaving with even eyes rather than one full eye of extensions and one
without (not a vibe).

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 eye styles

The following tables will show you how to deal with each eye shape, including the type of
lash styles to use, curls, and direction of the extensions.

Wide Eyes

Close Set Eyes

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 Drooping Corners

Round Eyes

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Raised Outer Corner (Asian Eyes)

Deep Set Eyes

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 consultation
techniques

It is important that if you have a client visiting for the first time or after every 6 months,
that you ask them to come to the appointment 10-15 minutes early, this will allow time to
go through the relevant Client Record forms and time to discuss between yourself and the
client of the style of lashes the client would like. Client record forms that you will need to
compete are those such as;

Eyelash Consent Form

Client Record Form
Photo Release Form
Aftercare Form

Client Records must be maintained for a number of reasons:

• They provide contact details in case you have to alter or cancel an appointment.
• To Discuss any possible contra-indications or contra-actions.
• To include Patch Test Waiver forms if your client wishes not to have a patch test.
• To track any aftercare advice that you have given the client.
• As a backup in case the client has an adverse reaction to a treatment.
• In case a colleague has to attend to your client one day they will be aware of what lash
styling and products the client has previously had.
• To hold information to send out marketing campaigns via their contact method
provided.

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 Consultation
Techniques cont.

Once the important part is out of the way and all forms are signed, we then need to decide
with our client what style is best suited for their wants and needs.

With the increasingly growing popularity of eyelash extensions in the beauty industry it’s
often that when a client comes to an appointment that they will have an idea in mind of
what style they would like, or at least what they dislike. More than likely, your client will
rock up with a photo from Instagram or social media as a guideline, however if they have
absolutely no idea where to start, this is where your consultation form really comes into
play.

Let’s begin with the easy consultation route first, say your client comes with an image in
mind, this is great – we know the general idea of what they would like. Now all we need to
do is assess if the style they have In mind is suitable and healthy for that individual clients
natural lashes, as like with most things... not one size suits all!

When discussing the lash style you are about to recreate and apply to your clients lashes
we must first consider a few things; Will this style suit my clients eye shape? What is the
current health of my client’s natural lashes? Will this work around my client’s day to day
routine?

It is our job as their lash technician to advise them of their best options and to set realistic
expectations of what can be achieved with their natural lashes. For example, if your client
has a busy lifestyle and is only able to return every 3 weeks for an infill, we may recommend
they go for a Russian set as generally these will last longer and appear fuller for longer than
a Classic set. (With that being said, until you are trained in Russian don’t panic, you can still
create a fuller set with classic lashes by aiming to cover 100% of the natural healthy lashes.)

Now let’s say a client comes to you with absolutely no idea what style they have in mind
or what will suit them, I generally would start by asking on a scale of 1-5 how natural to
glam are they wanting to look? Once you have this information, you can then show them
examples of different lash map styling such as an open eye or a cat eye from your social
media / existing photographs of your work.

You should now have all the information needed to proceed and be ready to begin the
service.

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 Treatment preparation,
Sterilisation methods & hygiene

As a lash technician, you have a duty of care to your clients and it is absolutely imperative
to keep your hands and workstation sanitized, as well as all your lash supplies properly
decontaminated, to avoid the spreading of any germs or eye infections.

Effective use of hygiene practices is necessary in the salon to prevent cross-infection.

Methods of Cleaning Tools and Equipment:

There are four main methods within the beauty industry to clean tools and equipment, Dis-
infectant, Antiseptic, UV Light Radiation and a Glass Bead Steriliser. The main two meth-
ods I would recommend are Disinfectants and Antiseptics;

Disinfectant
Disinfectant inhibits the growth of disease-causing organisms
(except spores) using chemical agents. Disinfectants only reduce
the number of organisms however this is usually sufficient for
maintaining hygienic conditions. Most are used for wiping down
work surfaces and equipment such as your tweezers. Disinfectants
should only be used under manufacturer’s instructions and
following the correct COSHH guidelines. Do not use directly on the
skin.

Examples: Barbicide/Dettol.

Antiseptics
Antiseptics are diluted disinfectants designed
for safe use on the skin to reduce the possibility
of infection. I would recommend using
antiseptic wipes between clients to wipe down
your lash bed, trolley, and any other areas your
client or yourself may have come into contact
with.

Examples: Alcohol Antibacterial Pads/Alcohol

Swabs

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 Still unsure how to best sanitise your equipment and tools? Here’s a simple
step by step guide;

1. Sanitizing your workstation:

Dispose of everything that is non-reusable as you go along, things such as Eye pads, micro-
brushes, lip wands, tape, etc. *I recommend sending the lash wand home with the client to
use daily on themselves as there will be no cross contamination.

Clean workstation with a disinfectant wipe. (This includes anything that you or your tools
touched during the service.)

2. Self-sanitation:
Wash hands thoroughly in between each client with warm water and soap for 30 seconds.
Keep hand sanitizer at your station for use at the start and throughout the service.

3. Disinfecting your lash supplies:

*Reusable tools must be cleaned properly PRIOR to disinfection (Barbicide). Any surface
debris will reduce the effect of the disinfectant and can cause cross-contamination.

4.Disinfecting steps:
1. Clean reusable tool/tweezers with warm water
and soap. – must use warm water to break down the
bacteria

2. Use fresh disinfectant such as Barbicide

and follow the instructions on the disinfectant
(instructions vary between products) For example
Barbicide recommends you leave the tools to
disinfect for 10 minutes, no longer, no less.

3. Remove reusable tool after recommended time.

Rinse the equipment in clean soap and water again
to remove residue.

4. Dry the tool with a clean, lint-free cloth such as

the Oh Beaut Adhesive Wipes or allow to air dry.
Cover tool with a clean cloth, or store in a closed
container.
Oh Beaut Adhesive Wipes

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Remember: The eye is a very delicate and sensitive part of the body. It is extremely
important that you keep your workstation clean, and that you take the time to sanitize and
disinfect all tools used between clients.

I recommend giving yourself at least 10-15 min between each lash service. This way you
have time to properly clean and tidy your lash bed, organize and sanitize everything at your
workstation, disinfect all your tools, and thoroughly wash your hands before your next
client arrives. It may also be helpful to have a second set of tweezers on hand, for use when
the other set is in the disinfectant.

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 Treatment procedure &
Full Step by Step Guide
Step 1
Prepare the lash bed/chair ready for the client. Make sure the bed has been disinfected and
has a fresh piece of disposable couch roll on. Get all your products lined up in the order of
use on your trolley, this will help you remember which step is next until you get into the
flow of it.

Step 2
Consultation. Introduce yourself to your client, complete all Client Record forms and dis-
cuss with your client exactly what style they would like.

Step 3
Now that you are happy with what set you will be applying to your client, ask them to lie
down on the lash bed/chair ensuring that their head is as high up as possible. Clients have a
tendency to shrink low down on the bed, resulting in us having to hunch over which is bad
for posture. I generally have to ask my clients to move back up on average of 5 times during
each set, but don’t be shy to ask, protect your posture.

Step 4
Wash and sanitise your hands. Ensure all traces of makeup are removed from the client’s
eyes using cotton pads and an oil free makeup remover such as Micellar water. Then begin
to cleanse lashes using Oh Beaut Lash Shampoo and a lash shampoo brush. – I recommend
doing this step prior to applying the pads/tape as often it will cause the pads/tape not to
stick as well.

Step 5
The next step is to tape down the bottom lashes to prevent them getting attached to the top.
It is super important to make sure the bottom lashes are fully secure as if bottom lashes pop
out during the treatment your client will not be able to open their eyes at the end as the top
and bottom lashes will be stuck together – more common than you think so don’t fret if this
happens. (I will go through what to do in this scenario on the training day.)

To tape the bottom lashes down you can either use micropore tape or under eye pads, or
both. There is no right or wrong way to do it. Some techs prefer just to use tape, some prefer
just the pads and some extra gals like myself prefer both.

Step 6
Now that the bottom lashes are taped down you are ready to prime using Oh Beaut Primer.
(I would also highly recommend using the Oh Beaut Super Bonder after priming once it
launches as it is INSANE for retention.) *Top secret about the Super bonder launch so shh.
The reason it is so important to both prime and cleanse the leashes prior to the treatment is
to thoroughly remove any traces of oil or products. If there are any traces left on the natural
lashes it will prevent the adhesive from being able to fully attach itself to the natural lash,
causing a weak bond, which means weak retention.

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 Step 7
Time to lash map! You already know the style that yourself and your client discussed at
the consultation, but now is your chance to make sure that your client’s expectations are
realistic for their natural lashes. Check that the health and length of the natural lashes can
hold the style requested, and if not be totally open and honest with your client about what
you recommend to do to their lashes instead, it may simply be a case of bringing the length
down shorter due to the natural lashes not being long enough. Once you’re ready, draw the
lash map onto the under eye pads using a fine tip marker.

Step 8
Remember to work across both eyes at the same time to help prevent stickies and create
even sets. Get cracking applying those lashes, ensuring perfect isolation is done BEFORE
dipping the false lash in the adhesive. If you dip the false lash in the adhesive then isolate,
the adhesive will cure before you get a chance to stick it on the natural lash, causing poor
retention and a weak bond. Remember to keep lashes at least 1mm away from the lash line
and only apply lashes up to 3mm longer than the natural lash. If you apply lashes close to
the lash line they will seriously irritate your client and in some cases can be quite painful.

Step 9
Every 15-30mins check that the bottom lashes are still secure, check for stickies and be sure
to be refreshing your glue. Also check that your client is comfortable and feeling no dis-
comfort. You may find with some clients that if they talk the pads/tape will move causing
discomfort so you may need to adjust accordingly.

Step 10
After finishing the full set check for any stickies on the under eye pad/tape and separate.
Ask your client to keep their eyes closed for 3-5minutes as we don’t want the eyes opening,
watering and then getting the lashes wet. If the lashes get wet not only is the adhesive still
not fully cured affecting the retention, but the lashes will stick together and can be a night-
mare / time consuming to go back and separate the stickies. To help prevent the eyes from
watering use a hand fan and brush lashes with a mascara wand to fan away any adhesive
vapour that may cause sensitivity. Finally remove the under eye tape/pads.

Step 11
Ask your client to open their eyes, make sure you get all the pictures and angles you want
for the gram (as long as the client has signed the photo release form) and show your client
their amazing new lashes. Take note that the client has had their eyes shut for up to 3 hours,
so when they open their eyes, they will be sensitive to the light. I would advise turning the
light down, and ensure it is not directly above the client’s eyes when they open them. Bright
lights can cause the eyes to water.

Step 12
Run over the aftercare again with your client, try to encourage them to book an infill for 2-3
weeks, if they book make sure you take a deposit. See your client out and restart process all
over again!

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 After care

It is important to provide your client with all the best possible aftercare to ensure that
they know what is expected of them and to get the most out of their lash extensions. I
recommend discussing these points in person, providing a physical aftercare card or form
via email and also keeping an aftercare section on your social media for clients to see.

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 Lash Removal

*Top Tip - I advise asking your clients not to speak during the removal
process to prevent any product seeping into the eyes.

Step 1
Cleanse the undereye area with oil-free makeup remover and apply under eye pad to the
bottom lashes, secure with micropore tape if necessary.

Step 2
Brush lashes using mascara wand, then using a disposable lip wand dispense the Oh Beaut
Cream remover onto the front of your hand, remember to get enough so that you do not
have to double dip your wand back into the remover. If you do need to get more product
from the remover pot, ensure you use a new lip wand to prevent any cross contamination.

Step 3
Using the lip wand apply the cream remover to the lashes where the adhesive bonds are. Try
not to apply too much product as you do not want it to seep into the eyes, but don’t apply
sparingly either!

Step 4
Allow the product to penetrate the adhesive for up to 5 minutes. Begin working through
using two microfiber brushes to gently slide off any lashes, continue until all lashes are
removed.

Step 5
You may find some stubborn lashes that do not want to come off, they are clinging on for
dear life! Using the banana method discussed when separating stickies, simply peel off the
lashes from the natural lash. Paying attention not to pull on the natural lashes.

Step 6
Once all the lashes are removed, using a dry cotton pad wipe away any excess product from
both eyes. Be sure to wipe underneath the lashes as well as on top.

Step 7
Finally, cleanse the eyelashes using Oh Beaut Lash Bath to fully remove any excess remover.
Wipe over with a damp cotton pad and brush natural lashes. You may wish to fan over
the lashes for 2 minutes before the client opens their eyes. If at any point the client feels
discomfort, apply the fan as this will help calm it down.

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 Oh Beauts Top Tips For A
Successful Set

Tip 1
Always ensure you book out extra time whilst you are practicing and getting your speed
up. There is nothing worse than knowing you are against the clock and rushing as this only
makes you struggle more! Sweaty palms, trust me.

Tip 2
Never feel like you have to lash 100% of a set. Depending on what style your client wants
you may only need to lash between 60-100%. If a client asks me for a medium-full set I
would normally fill around 70% of the natural lashes. So never feel pressured to lash 100%
of the lashes, especially baby or weak lashes.

Tip 3
Invest in a great light. I recommend a Glamcor Elite light. I know you may be tempted to
purchase a ring light as they are cheaper, but their lighting just isn’t good enough for those
fab pics and you will end up wasting money in the long run as you’ll no doubt end up
buying a Glamcor. Ring lights also can’t get as close to the clients eyes as a Glamcors can.
Glamcors have also been designed so that the bright light is comfortable on both the client
and the lash techs eyes. Bottom line – investing in a Glamcor changed my life.

Tip 4
Always refresh and shake, shake, shake your glue according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. The difference the shake makes is insane. So shake away beauts.

Tip 5
At the end of a set always go back and check for stickies. It is common to get stickies, even
when you’re a pro. The important thing is going back and correcting the stickies at the
end so that your client leaves with healthy, comfortable lashes. (we will go over this on the
training day!)

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 And that’s a wrap for
all your theory!

Congratulations on making your way through the Oh Beaut Classic manual. I know it may
seem like information overload, but when you’re actually applying lashes it will all make
sense.

The first ever step into lashes can be daunting, all the theory and basics to learn, but trust
me, one day it just clicks. Not only will you learn how to apply amazing lashes, but you’re
a businesswoman/man now and you’ve got to get thinking about setting up your social
media, branding etc.

This is where most lash training lacks, it can be quite hard to find information about editing
apps or social media advice, not this one! I have created especially for my amazing Oh
Beaut Students your very own Lash Bible full of everything you need to know to hit the
ground running as a boss bish.

& beauts, if you do feel overwhelmed at the start of your journey, or any point throughout
it, just remember this;

“Think of a car driving through the night. The headlights only

go a hundred to two hundred feet forward, and you can make
it all the way from California to New York driving in the dark,
because all you have to see is the next two hundred feet. And
that’s how life tends to unfold before us. If we just trust that the
next two hundred feet will unfold after that, and the next two
hundred feet will unfold after that, your life will keep unfolding.
And it will eventually get you to the destination of whatever it is
you truly want, because you want it.”

- Jack Canfield

You’ve got this, I believe in you!

Beth
Xx

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 CLASSIC LASH PRODUCT LIST

1. Oh Beaut Primer - www.ohbeaut.com

2. Oh Beaut Super Bonder (once it launches), this is AMAZING for retention of the lashes,
honestly it is a game changer - www.ohbeaut.com

3. Oh Beaut Adhesive 0.5-1sec OR whilst training if you would like a slower setting glue I
recommend London Lash Pro Lady Bond which has a 1-2 second drying time, London
Lash Pro allow you to buy samples of the glue which last one week once opened so you
can try it first. - www.ohbeaut.com/www.londonlashpro.com

4. Oh Beaut Lash Shampoo - www.ohbeaut.com

5. London Lash Pro Protein remover pads (ideal to cleanse lashes if you are in a rush and
don’t have time to shampoo) - www.londonlashpro.com

6. Cashmere Glossy Classic Mix tray c curl and d curl 0.15mm – www.lashart.co.uk

7. Cashmere Matte mix tray C curl 0.15mm, these are super natural super light lashes,
they have a split tip like a split end on your hair, great for people wanting natural lashes
/ mature clients - www.lashart.co.uk

8. Oh Beaut Micropore tape, you can also get this at Superdrug/Savers for 89p but it’s not
very sticky, I would recommend getting it from Oh Beaut as is a lot better, using the
cheap one could cause bottom lashes to pop out but it’s good to know as a last minute
backup if you run out that you can get it in most high street stores as its like a medical
tape - www.ohbeaut.com

9. Salon Eyelash Lash Extensions Under Eye Gel Pads Lint Free - get off Amazon / Ebay

10. London Lash pro Multifunctional tweezers, these are what I prefer to use for isolating
although you may also like the Straight Tip Isolating tweezers - www.londonlashpro.
com

11. London Lash Pro Curved tweezers, perfect for picking up Classic lashes - www.
londonlashpro.com

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12. FUNME Handheld Electric USB Fans Mini Portable Outdoor Fan Rechargeable, perfect
for blowing away any adhesive fumes and calming sensitive eyes - www.amazon.com

13. Premium White 20” Couch Roll Hygiene Roll - 40 Metres - 12 Rolls, disposable couch
role for use on each client – www.amazon.com

14. Barbicide and a Barbicide Jar, for use of disinfecting your tweezers and to wipe down
the couch, door handles, tools, trolley etc. Purchasable at any beauty suppliers such as
Sallys, also Amazon, Ebay etc.

15. Jade Stone, I much prefer a jade stone over glue rings as with glue rings you tend to spill
a lot (yes on clients) also its hard to dip your fan into a glue ring – www.lashart.co.uk
or Amazon and Ebay.

16. St John Ambulance 1.25 cm Microporous Tape, this is the tape which you use for
attaching to the jade stone, also can be used to help keep clients eyes closed or to lift the
eyelid - www.amazon.com

17. Ultra-fine Sharpie, for filling out lash maps – can be purchased literally anywhere on the
internet or - www.sharpie.com

18. Oh Beaut Adhesive Wipes, its super important to keep the nozzle of your adhesive clean
and free of glue otherwise it can dry out meaning you have the throw it away, the wipes
are also great to use to wipe down your tweezers after dipping in Barbicide – www.
ohbeaut.com

19. Lash Base Memory Foam Ergonomic Lash Pillow, perfect for your client to rest their
head but also by getting one of these pillows rather than a neck pillow, it allows you
to place your products either side of the clients head making the full treatment much
easier for you rather than having to go to and from your trolley. – www.lashbase.co.uk

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