Prepared by 1

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
Brooding Management

Brooding – is a rearing of baby chicks either by mother hen or artificial heat.

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS IN BROODING

Three essential things in successful brooding:

1. Reliable source of heat to prevent chilling of the chicks, and this includes a
suitable and well- ventilated house.
2. Balanced feeds and abundant water for proper growth and development of young
chickens.
3. Strict hygiene and sanitation for prevention of diseases.

1. Constant and Reliable Source of Heat

The most common cause of big mortality in brooding

 Insufficient heat causes respiratory troubles, the most common and fatal of which is
pneumonia.
 The affected chicks become sleepy, dull, listless and do not want to eat. They utter
shrill cries as they huddle together in a corner. Sometimes, the birds develop diarrhea
so that the vent becomes “pasted".
 Mortality from insufficient heat is very high. Sometimes, it reaches 50 per cent. When
you open the carcass of the dead chicks, you will find that the lungs are highly
inflamed (red) and when you incise them forth, air bubbles come out of the cut
surface.

Prepared by 2

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 The first two or three weeks of brooding is the most delicate period in the life of the
chicks and failure to have sufficient heat at this period will predispose them to
respiratory troubles which may prove fatal.
 Insufficient heat may due to low watts of electric brooders. In case of rainy or cold
days, there should be two 50W bulbs. During summer, one 50W bulb is enough in the
brooding section. To conserve the heat better, a curtain should be strung between the
brooding compartment and the run. In case the brooder is heated by n hood with
heating elements inside, it is sometimes necessary to place a curtain around the hood
to conserve the heat for maximum utility. This is especially advisable when the
brooder house is not or cannot be closed at night. It should be noted that the heat in
the brooders maybe maintained by closing the windows and door of the brooder
house excluding the ventilation above.
 Insufficient heat, in kerosene brooders, is caused by low flame or sudden putting out
of flame due to draft or insufficient fuel. It may be due also to poor construction of
brooding room or compartment which permits the entrance of drafts and wind. If the
room is not or cannot be closed sufficiently, the heat under the hover is dissipated and
may not be enough to provide the brooding heat.
 Overheating may be due in all types of brooders to strong source of heat. If the heat is
normal, the cause of overheating is overcrowding which results in the lack of brooding
space.
 Overcrowding results in poor growth (stunted), feather-picking or cannibalism and
mortality as a result of respiratory troubles and consequent poor nutrition. The
stronger chicks will crowd out the weaker ones from the feeders and from the
brooding space.
 Do not overcrowd chicks. Follow the suggested capacity indicated in a previous
chapter.

2. Balanced Feed and Abundant Water

 The feeds for baby chicks should supply all the food nutrients including vitamins and
minerals for their proper development and growth. A person who does not have any
knowledge of the principles Of poultry nutrition should not attempt to mix his own feeds
unless he is just merely following tested formulas.

 The chicks, after 60-72 hours from hatching, will have used up for their nutrition all the
yolks drawn into the abdominal cavity just before hatching time. After this, they are left
to the care of man for proper nutrition. Man has studied the nutritional needs of birds
for their proper development and growth. The quality and kind of feeds given to the
birds during the brooding period affect the growth and vitality of the birds.

 Chick rations should contain at least 20 per cent protein including 4-5 percent animal
protein. This protein, including that from animal origin, has been found sufficient for the

Prepared by 3

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 proper growth of baby chicks. Proper amount of vitamin A should be provided with the
feeds to "spark" growth of birds and keep the respiratory tract in healthy condition.
Sufficient minerals should also be provided in the feeds for the growth and
development of bones. To insure the proper assimilation of minerals for bone
development, vitamin D is essential. Refer to the chapter on poultry feeds and feeding
for detailed discussion.

 Abundant clean water is just as essential as a balanced ration. Hence, it should be

supplied to the birds at all times. In fact, animals can stand deprivation of food much
longer than they could of water. For the functions of water, refer to the Chapter on
poultry feeds and feeding.

 Poor quality or insufficient feed and water will result in retarded growth, poor health and
high percentage of mortality or sickly birds.

3. Strict Hygiene and Sanitation

Hygiene is the science of preservation and promotion of health. Or, it is a

system of principles and rules designed to preserve and promote health. Hygiene has
three main divisions: genetic, biological and environmental.

Genetic

This deals with the breeding of animals for resistance against diseases. This
does not concern us in our present brooding work. However, this indicates the
necessity of buying our chicks from flocks owned by scientific breeders.

Environmental

This deals with factors under which animals live. It includes proper care and
management. Under these, we have to strictly follow various instructions about
housing, ventilation, floor space, heat requirement, feeds and feeding, cleanliness
and disinfection.

Cleanliness

This must be observed all the time. Feeders, waterers and other utensils should be
scrupulously clean. Before using them, they should be cleaned, disinfected, and exposed
to the sun. The waterers should be cleaned everyday as they get soiled from dirty beaks.
They should not only be emptied and refilled but scrubbed as the bottom becomes slimy
after sometime. Do not clean the floor in such a way that dust flies into the feeders and
waterers. This will introduce disease organisms into an otherwise clean and fresh feed and
water. The manure from dropping board should not be allowed to accumulate as this cause
Prepared by 4

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
irritation of the eyes due to ammonia brought about by the decomposition of urine and
feces.
Do not allow visitors to touch the birds or make unnecessary noise. Make the birds
comfortable, happy and contented — and they will repay you with good performance.

Biological

This deals with vaccination of animals with biological preparations to immunize or

make them resistant against specific disease organism. This emphasizes vaccination of
chicks to prevent avian pest. fowl pox, Marek's disease, etc.

Natural brooding
This is the brooding of chicks with
mother hen or a trained capon. This is still
the most common practice in the rural
areas. The hen after hatching the eggs
rears her brood as natural process. She can
conveniently brood around 12-15 baby
chicks. In poultry farm we all know that they
also began with chicks hatched and
brooded naturally. It should be noted that
broody hens during a brooding season can
made to hatch eggs to finish more or less at
the same time. It is not hard to make
arrangement whereby 40 to 50 chicks are hatched and reared simultaneously. Usually
native hens are selected for the job.
In nature, chicks hatch after 2 to 4 weeks of incubation by parents, most often the
hen. The hatched chicks provide the stimulus to the hen to change her work from
incubating eggs to brooding young.This form of brooding chicks is the easiest if only a few
chicks are raised because the mother hen does all the work.

Prepared by 5

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
Artificial brooding

In artificial brooding we will notice

that the chicks do not stay under the wings of the hen all the time. They go away very often
and then when the hen calls them all, the chicken go to the mother and stay under the
wings to get the necessary warmth. They scatter out again after some minutes under the
natural “brooder”. the principle we should remembered when we go into artificial brooding is
that artificial brooder substitutes the hen which is warm all the time. You need to provide
constant heat throughout the period in which heat is necessary.

Types of Brooding Houses

Brooder houses range from simple to sophisticated types depending upon the
resources of poultrymen. The simple ones may consist of remodeled camarins or ground
floors of human dwellings. There are times that brooders are place on the sala, kitchen of
the houses and placed also outdoors.
The principle behind the successful artificial brooding is the conservation of heat so
that the chicks can be made comfortable. So in this practices of brooding the poultrymen
should be resourceful enough to provide and conserve heat even with simple facilities.

The brooding House for Brooding Alone

There are brooding houses that are intended for brooding alone. These building
should incorporate features including windows that can be closed or open depending upon
the weather. In these buildings,battery brooders may be placed. Or, floor brooding may be
done on litter. Either kerosene or electric brooder hoods (canopies) are used.

Prepared by 6

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
Compartments to separate each batch of chicks from each other are provided.
Usually,these compartments are separated by wire.

Combination Brooding and Growing House

The house for combination brooding and growing purposes is now getting popular.
Usually, it Consists of a house with litter floor with or without slatted or elevated wire
flooring at one both sides. Breeders are usually reared this way. Care must be exercised to
provide windows with shutters that can be closed or open depending upon the weather.
Brooding is done on the litter floor with the use of hovers heated by the electricity or
kerosene. Or , it may be by charcoal or rice- hull brooders.
The usual construction consists in a litter floor ( cement) in the center flanked by
slatted or elevated- wire flooring. The with of the center alley where brooding is done is as a
general rule equal to that of the slatted floor.

Prepared by 7

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
Kinds of Brooders
1. Single- Unit Electric Brooder
The single- unit electric brooder that has been
found very satisfactory,the heat is supplied by the
electric light bulb that makes the chicks active at
nighttime.By the light coming from the bulb the chicks
can even eat at night. The floor area of this kind of
brooder is 30x40 inches; the height is 8 inches. Each
unit is divided into a brooding compartment and “run”.
the former which is 16 inches long, is enclosed by solid
sides and top for the conservation heat. The “run” has
wire sides and is provided with two feeders and a
waterer. The floor of each unit is made of 3 or 4 mesh
wire under which is a removable droppings board of tin
or galvanized iron.

2.Electric Battery Brooders

These are multi-tiered electric brooder. Each
tier is the same as a single unit electric brooder. The
early battery brooders made of steel were imported.
Our country copying the structure of this imported
battery brooder. Some indigenous people make
electric battery brooders out of locally available
materials. In brooding with these equipment saves
on space a they very convenient.

2. Kerosene and Radiant “Pancake” Brooders

This kind of brooder have gained popular acceptance specially among poultrymen
who brood on littered or bare cement floor. One unit consist of an aluminium hover, a
burner, a thermostat, and ceramic radiant. The fuel used
Prepared by 8

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
is kerosene or liquefied petroleum gas (mobil flame,shellane,rock gas,Esso Gasul.etc.).
Through to Thermostatic this made possible, the heat is evenly distributed under the hover.
And, as long as the gas lasts the temperature is maintained at a constant level.

Sample picture of a Radiant Sample picture of a

“Pancake” Brooder Kerosene brooder

4. Home Made- Brooders

This is used by a resourceful farmer. He
will design and make his own brooder. This
brooder is simple and economical. We have
seen this brooder, the elevated floor and the
sidings is made of bamboo slats or they can
also used hardware cloth. The sidings can
screened or curtain during night and cold
weather. The heat is provided by kerosene
lamps with glass chimney, or by incubator
lamps.

3. Emergency Brooders
In a place where there is electricity, one can devise simple and easy- to - make
brooders for a small brood of chicks. Any box with one sided knocked off and to which is
fitted one socket for one bulb will serve for brooding purposes. Fit the muslin curtain around
the opening to conserve heat. Punch some holes at the top and side ventilation. If this is
placed on top of a litter it becomes a satisfactory brooder just like the commercial one.it
operates like a single- unit electric brooder.

4. Fireless Brooder
It is not commonly used by the poultrymen because this brooder accommodate small
number of chicks, they say 15 - 20 chicks brooded during summer. This brooder consists of
a box , a broad side of which has been knocked off. About 3 inches of horizontal space is
made between the lower edge of one wall and the floor to act as the opening through which
chicks go in out. No legs should be fitted.Strips of flannel or woolen cloth about one inch in
width are tacked from the underside of the top side. These strips will hung freely so that the
ends will just be brushing the back of the sleeping chicks. These strips of cloth are spaced
irregularly,ranging fron one to two inches. For ventillation, holes on top will have to be
Prepared by 9

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
provided. This kind of brooder is used best with straw or rice-hull litter. The feeders and
waterers should be placed outside the box. At first, it is advisable to put wire guard around
to confine the chicks within reasonably wide run. This guard will have to be removed
completely. When they demonstrate this fireless brooder,brooding was succesful, although
the birds at the end of the brooding period weight less than those birds brooded in artificially
heated broders but the chicks were just as lively.

Electric Brooding Preliminaries

1. The brooder body,parts and accessories must be cleaned and disinfected with creoline
solution, then dried under the sun for one day. If you are using the hood do not wash this,
otherwise, the heating elements may be damaged. Of course, do not clean the brooder with
bulbs on.
2. Ascertain if the brooder operates with 110 to 220 volts. It must fit the voltage of your
power. In Manila and other towns the voltage is 220.
3. During hot season just use one 50-W bulb in the brooder section. If it is raining or during
cold weather, use two 50-W bulbs, one placed opposite the other in brooder section.
4. Place a cloth curtain run through a thick wire between brooding section and the run
where the feed and water are placed.
5. Plug the connection to tan outlet. Do not do it with wet hands or you may get a shock.
6. See to it that there is no ground. Do not just manipulate the brooder without this
precaution especially when you are standing on wet cement floor, because you may get
shocked. Sometimes, putting a ground wire attached to the metal leg of the brooder will
remedy it.
7. Run the brooder at least one hour before placing the chicks.

Actual Management of Electric Brooder

Placing and Feeding of Chicks

 From the chicks boxes, the chicks are transferred one by one into the brooding
section through the back door.this way, the chicks will get immediate heat. It is not
advisable to put the chicks in run or they may not be able to find where the heat is.

Prepared by 10

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
  Place a cardboard or folded newspaper about 8 inches square under the curtain,
one half of which is with in brooding section and the other half in the run. The
following day this paper will be completely in the run. Take this away on the third
day. Egg flats may be used for this initial feeding of chicks.
 Spread a handful of starter mash on the above cardboard or egg flat. This will
introduce the chicks to their feed.
 Fill to one third the volume of one or both feeders with chick starter mash on the
second day depending on the number of chicks. After having a taste of feed on the
cardboard, these chick will seek food everywhere. They eventually find the feeders
at the side.
 Provide drinking fount inside the run. However, this may not be necessary as the
waterer in the front of the brooder may serve just as well. The waterer should be
filled with clean and fresh water on the very day the chicks are placed inside. The
wire guard of the waterer should be adjusted so that the chicks would not fall into
the water. Sometimes, it is necessary to place a thin piece of lumber where the
chicks can step on to reach the water level.

Observe Behaviour of the Chicks

 Observe very often the behaviour of chicks.Some of them go astray in the run and
cannot find the brooding section, especially during the first day. They will soob learn
to go inside the brooder section when they feel cold, and to get out to eat when
sufficiently warm.
 If the chicks crowd in a corner and pile on top one another, it means that the chicks
need warmth.
 Putting them under or near lamp will prevent chilling and possible death.
 If they are comfortable,s they spread out almost evenly on the floor. Some may be
sleeping, others may be eating, etc.

Feeds and Feeding

MASH
Starter mash with 20 to 21 percent protein including 4 -5 percent of animal origin should
be given and placed in the feeders all the times. You will note that even at nighttime,the
chicks eat by the bulb light. Sometimes, it is necessary to stir and level the feeds to
prevent the bottom layer from becoming caked and stale.

GRIT

Prepared by 11

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 after two weeks, shell and granite grit may be given in a separate container or at the
end of one of the feeders separated by cardboard. It has been found at the AIA that the
best age at which chicks can be given grit to advantage is after the second week. But
nowadays, the feed formulation has done away with this supplementary grit. But we
maintain that the addition of fine grit improves chick performance.
GRASS
Finely chopped grass, if indicated, shall be given once or twice a week in a hopper or
one- half of the feeder, on latter part of the fourth week. But grass is not necessary.
Nowadays, in commercial feeds on sale there is no need for grit,grass and grain
to be added to the mash feed.

Program of Heat
As a general rule, heat and light is on the first two weeks, day and night; third night
only; fourth we, no more light. However, during rainy season and inclement weather,
this schedule of light or heat can be delayed one week in each case. During hot
season, the lightning or heating is sometimes shortened. As stated previously, the
behaviour of the chicks should be the guide in the program of heat.

Transferring the Brooded Chicks

Depending upon the growth of feathers, development of the birds and the weather
conditions, the birds are ready to transferred to the growing pens or houses after the
seventh or eight week.

Floor Brooding Preliminaries

 Floor brooders may be the kerosene burner with fuel regulator, home-made
charcoal or rice hull brooders, circular or rectangular hood made of galvanized iron
provided with bulbs or the pancake brooder.
 The kerosene burner may be provided with galvanized iron hover to make possible
the maximum utilization of heat for a greater number of chicks.
 The charcoal-burning brooder, gives a great amount of heat, does not need o hover
unless the number of birds to be brooded is more than 500.
 Brooding should best be done on littered floor.

Prepared by 12

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
  Care must be duly exercised to prevent the litter from catching fire. Sand as a litter
may be used as n fire-security measure.

 The room, pen, or house where this kind of brooding is done should be such that it
can be made weather-tight, but can be properly ventilated in case it is necessary.
As stated previously, the floor should preferably be of cement.

 Test your brooder and determine how many hours the fuel at full capacity can last.
This is necessary so that, more or less, you will know when to refill.

 If you are using the rich-hull brooder, do your brooding in a separate house
because this kind of brooder emits smoke.
 If you brood under your house or in a compartment adjacent to another, the
smoke will blacken the building and cause plenty of annoyance. However, a smoke
stack may partially remedy this drawback.
 It should be noted that the charcoal brooder is not smoky.

Floor Brooding Actual Operation

Chick Feeders and Waterers

1. Place the chick feeders and waterers radially around the lamp, stove, or hover or hood.
2. 2. Provide at least one-inch feeder space for each chick.
3.Place cardboard squares or egg flats under the canopy or around the source of heat .
4.Introduce feeds to the chicks for the first time. The charcoal brooder is very hot near the
stove and the chicks cannot approach it by one foot from the stove.

Chick Guard

Put a circular chick guard made of cardboard or low wire netting at least three feeds
away from the edge of the canopy of the kerosene brooder; 3-4 feet away from the pancake
brooder hover, or the charcoal stove. This guard which is curtained by paper or cloth, tends
to prevent the chicks from going astray and away from the heat and will also help conserve
heat. This circular chick guard should be gradually widened until the 7 th day when this guard
is no longer necessary. You will have to round corners with cardboard or wire to prevent
chicks from piling up in a corner.

Number of Chicks to be Brooded

Prepared by 13

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 In the kerosene burner brooder, the number depends upon the diameter of the hover
or canopy. A 42 inches canopy can safely brood 300 chicks up to four weeks. The number
can be increased if the weather is hot. The capacity indicated by the manufacturers may be
modified to fit our local conditions. The charcoal brooder can brood much more chicks than
the largest kerosene brooder because the heat generated is tremendous. Because of this,it
becomes necessary to provide a bigger room for this kind of brooding so that the chicks can
have available space where they can take refuge from heat. Five hundred chicks may be
the maximum number of chicks to be brooded in one lot.
As for feeds and feeding, follow the same program as that one discussed in the electric
brooding.

Program of Heat

1. Provide heat day and night for the first two weeks; night only the third week, unless
weather is unfavorable when night heat is extended a few more days.

2. This may be shortened if the weather is hot. It may even be necessary to put out the light
during the daytime if the birds are observed to be panting and spreading their wings and
leaving or staying away from the source of heat.

3. The regular schedule of heat may be increased by one week in each case if the weather
is bad.

Sunporch

 Provide a solarium or a run enclosed by wire or slats adjoining the room or house,
allow the chicks to go out after seven days, if the weather is favorable. Needless to Say
that the range or sunporch must be sanitary and no older birds must have used it
previously. This will tend to prevent infection of Small birds with disease germs or
parasites of the older birds.

 Some cautious poultrymen put a wire floor or bamboo slat floor for the sunporch. This
is considered as an added preventive measure against coccidiosis and other parasites.
The importance of sunporch cannot be overemphasized. The chicks will become
healthy and vigorous from the sun's rays, fresh air and exercise.

Transferring the Brooded Chicks

Depending upon growth and development of birds as well as weather conditions,

the young birds are ready to be transferred after the seventh or eighth week to the
developing or growing pens.

Prepared by 14

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 Kerosene Lamp Brooding Preliminaries
Kerosene lamp homemade brooder
It is used when a farmer wants to brood only a few baby chicks, the number of which
is not more than fifty. The brooder unit may be placed inside a room or compartment during
the rainy season, or it may be placed outdoors during hot season.
Brooding compartment
 It is constructed weather-tight is heated either directly or indirectly by an ordinary
kerosene lamp or incubator lamp.
 It is indirect when the lamp is placed under the tin floor with a half-inch layer of sand or
when the flame heats first a hover or hood.
 The heat is direct when the lamp is placed inside the brooding compartment warming
the air inside.
 If you are using ordinary kerosene lamp, it is advisable to put n wire guard around the
glass chimney so that it won't crack when chicks with wet beak peck at it. However,
when you are using the incubator lamp, there is no need for this wire guard. What you
have to guard against is the lamp getting smoky by proper adjustment and cleaning of
wick.
 Drafts should be prevented from blowing inside the brooding compartment because the
flame of the lamp may get dangerously large or it may be put out.

Prepared by 15

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 When you use the lamp under the sanded floor, be sure that the brooder floor is made
of tin or galvanized iron to prevent fire. The layer of sand on the floor makes the
distribution and conservation of heat better.
 Test the lamp in the brooder and find out how many hours will the lamp take to
consume the fuel.

 Find out the temperature within the brooding compartment.

 For best results, at first, the temperature should be around 90°F.

 Run a curtain between the brooding compartment and the run.

 Put the feeders and waterers in the run. These equipment should be cleaned and
disinfected first before each brooding. Refer to a previous chapter for hopper or
feeding space.

Kerosene Lamp Actual Brooding Management

Placing Chicks and Initial Feeds

1.Run the brooder one hour before placing the chicks inside the brooding section.

2. Place the chicks one by one into the heated brooding section.

3. Introduce the feed on cardboard squares, or, in case of box feeder, you may put at once
the starter mash inside. Put some chicks on it and the rest will soon follow suit. In the latter
case, do not worry over the chick manure falling into the box. It may be eaten with the mash
without any harm on the ones that happen to eat it unless there is an outbreak of
coccidiosis. It may be good because the manure is reputed to contribute in the growth
factor for chicks.

4. As a brooding space, you may allow one-third square foot for every bird thereafter chick
up to four weeks, and one-half square foot for every It is better to give the chicks one-half
square foot of brooding space throughout the brooding period. Of course, this is a more
expensive

Prepared by 16

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
5. The heat may be supplied for two weeks only if the brooder unit is inside room. There
are reports which tend to show that the light can be withdrawn after one week during
summer provided that brooding is done indoors. When the brooder unit is outdoors, follow
the same program as in the other types of brooding,

Feeds and Feeding

The chick starter mash may be given to the chicks for the first time on cardboard
squares or on egg flats just like in electric brooding. Or the mash may be placed directly
on the feeders like the chick hoppers and "step-in" feeders. In case of the latter, it is good
to put some of the chicks on the "step-in" feeders. When the other chicks see them eating,
they will go inside and eat too.

Transferring the Brooded Chicks

If the brooder unit is outdoors, the chicks will have been accustomed to free
atmosphere and sunlight so that they can be transferred directly to the range or growing
house or pen after 5-6 weeks. However, if brooding is done indoors, the birds should be
transferred only after 7-8 weeks, the same as in the other types of brooding

VACCINATION

Of significant importance in vaccination is the age of the fowl at the time of

vaccination. The younger the vaccinated subject, the less durable is the induced
protection, if at all. It does not mean, however, that the immunity induced in young
subjects is not adequate. It is, but the protection afforded does not last long. Perhaps, 4-8
weeks is the longest immunity conferred.

The brands of vaccine produce immunity which is more or less dependent

upon their mode of application. It has been found that the immunity induced by a single
wing-web avian pest vaccination in birds, 8-10 weeks of age, is not so lasting and solid
as that obtained from 2 intranasal vaccinations applied when the birds are a few days
old and again at 8-12 weeks of age. The wing-web vaccine has a particular use in older
birds, 8-12 weeks of age, if they have not been given any vaccine previously. The wing-
web vaccine, if used in repeated vaccination, does not induce a protection as
satisfactory as that induced by repeated intranasal vaccination, or that applied by spray
or in drinking water. The intranasal vaccine, therefore, is the vaccine of choice for
revaccination purposes because of this unique effect and the mild reaction which does
not affect the growth of the young chicks and the egg production of layers.

Fowl Pox Vaccination

 fowl pox strikes quite early in the life of birds during the first or second week of life.
Prepared by 17

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 An ideal vaccine against the disease should be one which can be applied very early in
the life of birds.
 Fowl pox vaccine could be used at an early age.
 Most fowl pox vaccines are applied at six weeks of age.
 Fowl pox vaccination, being done when birds are young, does not confer a lasting
immunity. Hence, it should be repeated when the birds are already mature, say, before
the pullets start to lay eggs (5-6 months of age).

ON IMPORTED VACCINE

One important thing which should be borne in mind is that there is no vaccine, local
or imported, that will confer life immunity against avian pest. There seems to be an
impression imported vaccines are more effective because they confer life immunity. Some
are prejudiced against locally produced vaccines which, they claim, do not confer life
immunity. A poultryman, who owned several hundred chickens, got this sort of notion about
imported avian pest vaccine. After vaccinating once his birds, he thought that they had
already acquired lifelong immunity. His entire flock succumbed to avian pest four months
after vaccination.

There are now many brands of imported vaccines distributed by the following:

Cashman-link (Salsbury Laboratories

Ed A. Keller, Inc.
Interchem Philippines
Merck Sharp & Dohme
Pfizer
Premium Agrover
Winthrop Stearns, Inc.
Abbot Laboratories (Phil)

(as of August 26, 1991)

Coopers Animal Health Phils, Inc.

Enervet Philippines, Inc.
J.M. Mendoza
JNS Marketing Corporation

Prepared by 18

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
Metrovet
Premium Agro-vet Products, Inc.
Rhone-Poulenc Phils, Inc.

There are many who are using imported brands of vaccines although they are
quite expensive. They have their own reasons for buying them. There are also others
who use the BAI vaccine which is very cheap.

ON LOCAL VACCINES
The locally produced vaccines, when properly handled and administered, may give
satisfactory results because they are made from strains or organisms which cause chicken
diseases in this country. They have the added advantage of being prepared in this country,
hence, they are not subjected to unfavorable conditions in long transit. Their potency,
therefore, is hardly affected if properly handled.

Poultrymen are urged to vaccinate their flocks. Vaccination, however, should be

applied intelligently and judiciously. Instructions regarding their use should be followed
strictly.

Prepared by 19

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
 POULTRY PRODUCTION
PROCEDURES AND MANAGEMENT PRACTICES IN BROODING CHICKS

Submitted to:
GENEVIEVE L. VALDEZ Ph.D.
Graduate Professor
College of Advance Education

In partial fulfillment
Of the requirements in the course
AG.TECH 205- POULTRY PRODUCTION

Submitted by:
Ronabelle V. Gumalingging
MAT-TLE

Prepared by 20

Ronabelle V. Gumalingging