B Cây Lá

Inspired by
Zelda Breath of the Wild
Crochet pattern by ElizettaCrafts

Inspired by Zelda BOTW
1. Instruments and materials
• 1.4 mm hook
• Sewing needle, scissors, safety pins, sewing pins, colored marker pins, pliers
• Stuffing material
• Wire (a few pieces (8 pieces if you plan to crochet all Koroks, around 12 cm long each))
• Yarn - I am using the below types of yarn, but you can use whichever brand/type you like.
I recommend the mercerized cotton for amigurumis.
o For Korok Body 1:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0254 - “taupe” (darker yarn)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0179 - “camel” (lighter yarn)
o For Korok Body 2:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0179 - “camel” (darker yarn)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0404 - “sand” (lighter yarn)
o For Mask 1:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0412 - “moos” (dark green)
o For Mask 2:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0205 - “apfel” (darker yarn - green)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0245 - “anis” (lighter yarn – light green)
o For Mask 3:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0388 - “terracotta” (darker yarn)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0424 - “kirsche” (lighter yarn)
o For Mask 4:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0280 - “löwenzahn” (yellow)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0245 - “anis” (light green)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0249 - “gold”
o For Mask 5:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0388 - “terracotta” (darker yarn)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0280 - “löwenzahn” (yellow)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0281 -“orange”
o For Mask 6:
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0389 - “maigrün” (a shade of green)
o For Branches with leaves and red fruits
▪ Branches: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0161 - “teddy” (brown)
▪ Leaves: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0389 - “maigrün” (a shade of
green)
▪ Red Fruits: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0115 - “signalrot” (red)
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o For Branch with long leaf – choose one of the two shades of green below, or use
one shade for one Korok and the other shade for another Korok
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0389 - “maigrün” (a shade of green)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0212 - “khaki” (a shade of green)
o For mask details embroidery (black yarn)
▪ Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0110 - “schwarz” (black)
These toys are inspired by the Koroks – characters of Zelda Breath of the Wild video game,
published by Nintendo.
I am using 100% Cotton “Sport - 5ply | Fine” yarn, a 1.4 mm hook and following US crochet
terminology. For stuffing you can use polyester wadding or wool.
This pattern is for personal use only. Sharing information from this pattern is prohibited. If you
publish photos of the toys that are crocheted following this pattern, please mention the author
of the pattern or use hashtag #ElizettaCrafts. It would really make me happy to see your
creations.
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If you get stuck or need more details, just contact me on Etsy, Instagram, or send me a direct e-
mail. I will be more than happy to help you with all the questions you may have.
2. Abbreviations – US Crochet terminology

This pattern is written in US Crochet terminology
Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Sc in each Sc around single crochet in each of the stitches in a row
INC increase (2Sc into the same stitch)
INVDEC invisible decrease
DEC decrease
Sl St slip stitch
FLO front loops only
FLORFC front loops only remaining from the foundation chain (instructions for this can be
found at the beginning of the “Masks” section)
BLO back loops only
HDC half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through,
you have three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through all three loops on the
hook)
DC double crochet (yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through, you
have three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through first two loops on the hook,
you are left with two loops on the hook, yarn over again, pull through both loops
on the hook)
TR treble crochet (yarn over twice, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through,
you have four loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through first two loops on the
hook, you are left with three loops on the hook, yarn over again, pull through first
two loops on the hook, you are left with two loops on the hook, yarn over again,
pull through both loops remaining on the hook)
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Tips
There is a chance that you will lose the beginning of the row; to avoid this, use a marker. It can
be a safety pin, clip or thread of contrasting color.
This pattern contains 2 body shapes. They have slightly different forms, especially the “horns”
section. Choose the one you like the most, or crochet both, it’s up to you which one you prefer.
Below you can find photos where you can see the two bodies. From my experience the “Korok
Body 1” will be slightly taller than “Korok Body 2”.
3. Korok Body 1
3.1 Legs
For the body of the Korok you will use 2 colors of yarn, a darker color and a lighter color of your
choosing.
Start with the darker yarn
First leg
1 row 6Sc in magic circle (6)
2 row 6INC (12)
5
3 row BLO 12Sc (12)
4 - 5 rows Sc in each Sc around (12)
6 row 2Sc (mark the front loops only on these 2 stitches with a colored pen/marker,
marked red in my Image 1), then continue crocheting 10Sc
Cut the yarn, leave a small tail and hide it inside the leg using a needle.
Image 1
Image 2
Second leg
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row BLO 12Sc (12)
6 row 2Sc, Sc (mark this stitch with a marker/pin, yellow in Image 3
my Image 3), 9Sc (12)
Now you will crochet the middle section that will connect the two legs. Continue crocheting on
the second leg:
• 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2)

• Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2)
• Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain (mark this chain using a marker/pin,
Image 4
orange in my Image 4), Turn (2)
Take the first leg and connect it with the second leg by crocheting 2Sc. When crocheting these
two stitches, Skip the chain, take the back loops only on the second leg (colored in green in my
6
Image 5) and the front loops only on the first leg (the ones you marked with a colored pen, red
in my case). In my Image 6 you can see I already did the first Sc, and I have one more left to do,
using the two stitches I marked, red and green.
Image 5 Image 6
Then continue crocheting the body.
3.2 Body
Continue crocheting in spiral, with darker yarn.
1 row Sc on the first leg (mark this stitch with a marker/pin), 4Sc, INC, 4Sc (you have now
finished the stitches on the first leg), Sc on the marked chain in the last row of the
middle part (marked in orange in my case, you can now remove the marker/pin),
continue crocheting in the transverse loops from the middle part (I marked them
with red dots in Image 7) 3Sc, INC, 3Sc, Sc on the marked stitch on the second leg
(you can now remove the marker/pin, yellow in my Image 7), continue crocheting
on the second leg 4Sc, INC, 4Sc, continue crocheting on the middle part in
transverse loops (I marked them with green dots in Image 7) 2Sc, INC, 3Sc (38)
Consider this the end of the first row.
Image 7 Image 8
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2 row Sc in the marked stitch (you can remove the marker/pin), 4Sc, INC, 7Sc, INC, 4Sc,
INC, 6Sc, INC, 6Sc, INC, 3Sc, INC, Sc (44)
Image 9
You will now start alternating the yarn colors.

But before this, if you don’t know how to change colors seamlessly, here’s how. In the last
single crochet before the color change, insert hook in the indicated stitch, pull up a loop (Images
10 & 11). In other words, make a single crochet but don’t finish it! Grab the new color with your
crochet hook and finish that single crochet (Images 12 to 15). You have a nice finished single
crochet in previous color and a new color loop on your hook (Image 15). The next single crochet
will be done in the new colored yarn. Hold your new color yarn as you usually do and crochet
as you would normally do. The only difference is that you place the other yarn, the old color,
on the back of the stitches of the previous row (see Images 16 to 25 on how to crochet the next
2 stitches in the new colored yarn). This will hold the yarn hidden and carry it along with you.
I prefer this method instead of cutting the yarn after each color change.
Image 10 Image 11 Image 12
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Image 17 Image 18
Image 16
Image 19 Image 20
Image 21
Image 25
You can see in Image 25 that the color change stitches look seamlessly.
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Starting with the next row, crochet with darker colored yarn when you read “d” and with
lighter colored yarn when you read “l”.
3 row “d”2Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”31Sc (44)
4 row “d”2Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”15Sc, “l”1Sc, “d”15Sc (44)
5 row “d”1Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”14Sc, “l”2Sc, “d”14Sc (44) Attention, next row
starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last
single crochet for this row.
6 row “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”14Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”11Sc, “l”2Sc (44)
8 row “l”16Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”18Sc (44)
9 row “l”44Sc around (44)
12 row “l”4Sc, “d”3Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”20Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”13Sc (42) Attention, next row
13 row “l”3Sc, “d”39Sc (42)
14 row “d”6Sc, “l”19Sc, “d”17Sc (42)
15 row “d”7Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”16Sc, “d”3Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”3Sc, “l”9Sc (40) Attention, next
row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last
16 row “d”8Sc, “l”1Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”7Sc, “l”10Sc (40)
17 row “l”2Sc, “d”5Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”8Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, “d”INVDEC, “l”11Sc (38)
18 row “l”4Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”7Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”5Sc (38)
19 row “d”1Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”6Sc (38)
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Stuff the body. Continue crocheting.
Image 26 Image 27
Image 30
Image 28 Image 29
20 row “d”1Sc, “l”9Sc, “d”2Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”2Sc (38)
22 row “l”9Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”2Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”1Sc (38)
24 row “d”18Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”3Sc (38) Attention, next row starts with
a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet
for this row.
25 row “d”10Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”6Sc, “l”2Sc (38)
27 row “l”18Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”10Sc (38) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a
new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.
28 row “l”19Sc, “d”5Sc (mark the last stitch, red in my Image 31), “l”3Sc, “d”11Sc (38)
mark the end of the row with a marker pin – orange in my Image 32
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29 row “d”1Sc (you can cut the darker yarn you will not need it in the next rows). All the
next stitches will be done with lighter yarn (“l”) 6Sc (mark this last stitch with a
marker/pin, yellow in my Image 33), 2Sc, 2INC, 3Sc, connect to the marked stitch
(yellow in my Image 34, do not remove the marker, you will need it later) by
making 1Sc. Consider this last stitch as the end of the row. You will now continue
crocheting the first horn.
Image 34
3.3 Horns
First horn
Continue crocheting in spiral, with lighter yarn (“l”).
1 row INVDEC, Sc, INC, Sc, INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC
2 row INVDEC, Sc, INC, 2Sc, INVDEC
3 row 3INVDEC
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Cut the yarn. Use a needle to guide the yarn tail inside the horn. Cut the excess yarn off.
Image 35 Image 36 Image 37 Image 38
Image 39 Image 40
Second horn
In the first marked stitch in row 28 (red in my Image 41) connect darker colored yarn (“d”), Make
1Sc in the next stitch. Move the marker/pin (red in my case) to this stitch (Image 43). Continue
crocheting in spiral with the darker colored yarn (“d”)
Image 42 Image 43
Image 41
1 row 3Sc, 2INC, 4Sc, Chain 2 (Image 44), Connect to the marked stitch (red marker in my Image
45) by making 1Sc.
Image 44 Image 45
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2 row 2INVDEC, 2INC, 2INVDEC, Sc, BLO 3Sc (mark the last Sc with a marker/pin, red in my Image
46)
Image 46
3 row 3Sc (mark the last Sc with a marker/pin, blue in my Image 47), 2INC, 2Sc, Chain 1, connect
to marked stitch (blue marker in my case, Image 49 & 50) by making 1Sc. You can remove
the marker.
Image 48 Image 49
Image 47
Image 50
4 row 2Sc, 3INVDEC Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail inside the horn using a needle.
Image 53
Image 52
Image 51
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Third horn
1 row Connect darker colored yarn (“d”) in the marked stitch (red in my Image 54). Make 1Sc in
the next stitch. Move the marker here (red in my Image 55). Then continue 1Sc, 2 Sl St at
the base of second horn (see red dots in my Image 56), 2 Sl St, 2 FLO Sc, Sc in the marked
stitch (red in my case).
Image 57
2 row 4INVDEC
3 row 3Sc. Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail inside the horn using a needle.
Finishing the Body

On the marked stitch on row 29 of the body, (orange marker in my Image 61) connect darker
colored yarn (“d”). Sc in the next stitch (move the marker here, orange in my Image 62)
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Image 61 Image 62
Continue crocheting 5Sc, Sc at the base of horn in the marked stitch (yellow in my Image 63), Sc
on the other side at base of horn, 9Sc, Sc at the base of the other horn (green dot in my Image
66), 2Sc on the middle at the base of horn (red dots in my Image 66), Sc on the other side at the
base of horn (blue dot in my Image 66), 4Sc, Sl St in the marked stitch (orange in my Image 68).
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, leave a long end for sewing.
Image 63 Image 64
Image 65
Image 66 Image 67
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Stuff the body and the horns.
Image 71
Using a needle, guide the yarn tail to one of the extremities of the body, just at the base of one
of the horns. Sew to unite the front part of the body to the back part. To do this seamlessly sew
the back loops only on the front part with the back loops only on the back part. Hide the tail
inside the body.
Image 73
Image 72
Image 74 Image 75
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4. Korok Body 2
4.1 Legs
For the body of the Korok you will use 2 colors of yarn, a darker color and a lighter color of your
choosing.
Start with the darker yarn
First leg
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row BLO 12Sc (12)
4 - 5 rows Sc in each Sc around (12) Image 79
6 row 2Sc (mark the front loops only on these 2 stitches with a colored pen/marker, red
in my Image 79), 10Sc
Cut the yarn, leave a small tail and hide it inside the leg using a needle.
Second leg
2 row 6INC (12)
3 row BLO 12Sc (12)
6 row 2Sc, Sc (mark this stitch with a marker/pin, red in my Image 80), 9Sc (12)
Now you will crochet the middle section that will connect the two legs. Continue crocheting on
the second leg:
• 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2)

Image 81
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• Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain (mark this chain using a marker/pin, blue
in my Image 82), Turn (2)
• Skip marked chain, take the first leg and connect it with the
second leg by crocheting 2Sc. When crocheting these two
stitches, take the back loops only on the second leg (green in my
Image 83 & 84) and the front loops only on the first leg (the ones
you marked with a colored pen, red in my Image 83 & 84).
Image 82
Image 83 Image 84
Then continue crocheting the body. Image 85
4.2 Body
Continue crocheting in spiral, with darker colored yarn.
1 row Sc on the first leg (mark this stitch with a marker/pin, purple in my Image 86), 4Sc,
INC, 4Sc (you have now finished the stitches on the first leg), Sc on the marked
chain in the last row of the middle part (blue in my case, you can now remove the
marker/pin), continue crocheting in the transverse loops from the middle part
3Sc, INC, 3Sc, continue crocheting on the second leg, Sc on the marked stitch on
the second leg (red in my Image 87, you can now remove the marker/pin),
continue crocheting on the second leg 4Sc, INC, 4Sc, continue crocheting on the
middle part in transverse loops (I marked them with green dots in Image 88) 2Sc,
INC, 3Sc (38) Consider this the end of the first row.
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2 row Sc in the marked stitch (purple in my case, you can remove the marker/pin), 4Sc,
INC, 7Sc, INC, 4Sc, INC, 6Sc, INC, 6Sc, INC, 3Sc, INC, Sc (44)
Image 89 Image 90
You will now start alternating the yarn colors. Follow my instructions on changing colors that
you can find on the Korok Body 1.
Starting with the next row, crochet with darker colored yarn when you read “d” and with
lighter colored yarn when you read “l”.
3 row “d”2Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”31Sc (44)
4 row “d”2Sc, “l”11Sc, “d”15Sc, “l”1Sc, “d”15Sc (44)
5 row “d”1Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”14Sc, “l”2Sc,
“d”14Sc (44) Attention, next row starts with a
stitch in a new color, so remember to change
the color in the last single crochet for this row. Image 91
6 row “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”14Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”11Sc,

“l”2Sc (44)
7 row “l”6Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”12Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”8Sc,
“l”4Sc (44)
8 row “l”16Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”18Sc (44)
9 row “l”44Sc around (44) Image 92
10 row “l”5Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”19Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”4Sc

(44)
11 row “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”15Sc, “d”6Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”2Sc
(44)
Image 93
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12 row “l”4Sc, “d”3Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”20Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”13Sc (42) Attention, next row
13 row “l”3Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”19Sc, “d”17Sc (42)
14 row “d”7Sc, “l”INVDEC, “l”16Sc, “d”3Sc, “d”INVDEC,
“d”3Sc, “l”9Sc (40) Attention, next row starts with a
stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color
in the last single crochet for this row.
16 row “l”2Sc, “d”5Sc, “d”INVDEC, “d”8Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, Image 94
“d”INVDEC, “l”11Sc (38)
17 row “l”4Sc, “d”10Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”7Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”5Sc (38)
Add stuffing to the legs and body. Continue crocheting
18 row “d”1Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”6Sc
(38)
19 row “d”1Sc, “l”8Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”5Sc,
“l”2Sc (38) Image 95

21 row “l”8Sc, “d”6Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”2Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”1Sc (38)
23 row “d”18Sc, “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”3Sc (38) Attention, next row starts with
a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet
for this row.
25 row “l”16Sc, “d”5Sc (mark this with a marker/pin, I used a blue marker in Image 96)
then continue with “d”1Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”8Sc, “l”1Sc (38) Mark the end of the row
with a marker/pin (yellow marker in my Image 97)
Image 96 Image 97
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4.3 Horns
First horn
Continue crocheting in spiral, with lighter yarn (“l”). All the following stitches are with lighter
colored yarn, so you can cut the darker colored yarn, you won’t need it for the first horn.
1 row 5Sc (mark the last stitch with a marker/pin, red in my Image 98), 4Sc, INC, 5Sc, Chain 3,
Connect to the marked stitch by making 1Sc (Image 100, but do not remove the red
marker, you will use it later). Mark this as the end of row. You will crochet in spiral.
Image 101
2 row 4Sc, INC, 4Sc, INVDEC, BLO 4 Sl St

3 row 2INVDEC, Sc, INC, Sc, 4INVDEC
4 row INVDEC, Sc, 2INC, Sc, 2INVDEC
5 row 2INVDEC, INC, 2INVDEC
Image 102
6 row Sc. Fasten off, cut the yarn and hide the tail inside the horn using a needle.
Image 103 Image 104
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Image 105 Image 107

Image 106
Image 108
Second horn
1 row In the stitch you marked in row 25 of the body (blue in my case, Image 109) connect
darker colored yarn. Start crocheting in the next stitch by doing 1Sc (move the blue
marker to this stitch, Image 111). Then continue crocheting 6Sc, INC, 8Sc, Chain 4,
Connect to the marked stitch (blue marker in my case) by doing 1Sc. Move the marker to
this stitch as this will be the end of the first row (21)
Image 109 Image 110

Image 111
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Image 115
2 row 6Sc, INC, 6Sc, INVDEC, BLO 6 Sl St

3 row 2INVDEC, 3Sc, INC, 5Sc, 4INVDEC Image 116
4 row Sc, INVDEC, 3Sc, INC, 5Sc, 2INVDEC (Mark this with a
marker/pin, blue in my Image 117)
5 row 2Sc (mark the second stitch with a marker/pin, purple
in Image 118), 3Sc, INC, 4Sc, Chain 2, Connect to the marked
stitch (purple in my Image 120) by making 1Sc.
Image 117
Image 118 Image 119
Move the marker here to mark the end of the row. Continue working in circle Image 120
6 row 3Sc, INC, 4Sc, 2INVDEC

7 row 2INVDEC, Sc, INC, Sc, 2INVDEC
8 row INVDEC, Sc, INC, 2INVDEC
9 row Sc. Fasten off, cut the yarn and hide the tail inside using a needle.
Image 121
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Image 123 Image 124

Image 122
Image 126
Image 125
Third horn
1 row Connect darker colored yarn in the marked stitch on the second horn (blue marker in my
Image 128). Start crocheting in the next stitch by making 1Sc, then continue with 3Sc in
transverse loops at the base of the second horn (to do this look at my Image 130 and
crochet 1Sc on the right side of the base of the second horn (red dot), 1Sc in the middle
at the base (green dot) and 1Sc on the left side of the base (blue dot)), then continue with
4Sc, make another Sc in the marked stitch (blue in my case). Mark this as the end of the
first row.
25
Image 130 Image 131
2 row BLO 4Sc, FLO 4Sc

3 row INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC
Fasten off, cut the yarn, hide the tail inside the body using a
needle.
Image 132
Image 133
Image 134 Image 135
Stuff the body and the horns.
Image 136
Finishing the body

Connect darker colored yarn in the marked stitch from row 25 of the body (yellow marker in my
Image 137). Start crocheting in the next stitch by making 1Sc (move the marker here, yellow in
my Image 138). Then continue with another 3Sc. Make 1Sc in the stitch you marked in row 25
(red marker in my Image 139, you can remove this marker). At the base of the horn you will have
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the 3 loops remaining from the 3 chains you made for the horn (red circle in my Image 141).
Crochet 1DEC using the first 2 loops. Then in the third loop make 1 Sl St. Then in the stitch right
at the base of the horn make another Sl St. Continue on the back side of the body with 5Sc. You
are now at the base of the second & third horns. Crochet 1Sc at the base of the horns. You should
have 4 loops remaining from the 4 chains you made when crocheting the first row of the horns (I
marked them with a blue circle in my Image 144). Make 2DEC in these loops. Now you are again
at the other side of the base of the horns. Make 1Sc at the base. Make 1 Sl St in the marked stitch
(where you started this row, yellow marker in my Image 146). Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving
a tail for sewing.
Image 140 Image 141
Image 142
Image 143
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Image 145
Image 144
Image 146 Image 147
Using a needle, sew to unite the front part of the body to the back part. To do this seamlessly
sew the back loops only on the front part with the back loops only on the back part. Cut the yarn,
hide the tail inside the body.
Image 148 Image 149
Image 150
Image 151
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Image 152
5. Arms
Image 153
Image 154
With darker color yarn

2 row INC, 5Sc (7)
3 row INC, 6Sc (8)
4 row INC, 7Sc (9)
Stuff the arm (do not add too much stuffing, just a small quantity).
8 row INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC, Sc (6)
9 row 2INVDEC. Fasten off, cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing.
Crochet two arms.
6. Tail
2 row INC, 5Sc (7)
3 row INC, 6Sc (8)
4 row Sc in each Sc around (8)
Image 156
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Fasten off, cut the yarn and leave a tail for sewing.
7. “Nose”
If you prefer a shorter nose, crochet 3 rows instead of 4.
Fasten off, cut the yarn and leave a tail for sewing.
Image 157
8. Branches with leaves and red fruits

Leaves
With green yarn
Chain 4 (mark the 4th chain with a marker/pin, red in my Image 159), Turn, Skip marked chain,
BLO 3 Sl St (keep in mind that you will use the front loops later), Chain 1. Then move to the left,
where you started the foundation chains, and continue crocheting in the front loops only (the
front loops I was telling you about above, remaining from where you crocheted in back loops)
FLO 1Sc, FLO 1DC, FLO 1Sc. In the marked stitch (Image 161, do not remove the marker/pin) make
1 Sl St, Chain 1, make another 1 Sl St in the marked stitch (you can now remove the marker).
Continue crocheting to the left BLO 1Sc, BLO 1DC, BLO 1Sc, BLO 1 Sl St. Fasten off, cut the yarn
leaving a tail for sewing. For each branch you will need 6 leaves. For some of the Koroks you will
need 2 branches, for some of them you will only need 1 branch. It’s your choice to crochet as
many leaves as you’d like.
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Image 162 Image 163

Image 161
Red fruits
With red yarn
2 row Sc, INVDEC
Fasten off, cut the yarn and hide the tail inside the fruit. Image 164
For each branch you will need 4 fruits. Crochet as many fruits as you need for your Koroks.
Sew the fruits to the leaves (use the green tail remaining for sewing on the leaves). Cut the green
yarn, leaving a tail of around 2 cm.
31
Image 171
For the branch, take a piece of wire of 8 - 9 cm. Take a brown yarn and start wrapping the yarn
on the wire, starting on one of the ends.
Image 172
Image 173 Image 174
Use a round nose pliers to secure the end of the wire (twist the end making a spiral. This will
avoid the yarn to unravel).
Start adding the leaves one by one, wrapping the brown yarn
around them and around the wire to cover it. Alternate the leaves
with fruits with the ones without fruits.
Image 175
Image 176
Image 177 Image 178
32
Image 182
Image 183 Image 184
When you’ve wrapped around 5-6 cm of wire (including leaves), cut the excess wire off. Use the
round nose pliers again to secure this end of the wire (twist the end making a spiral. This will
avoid the yarn to unravel). Cut the yarn, leave a yarn tail to sew the branch to the arms.
Image 185 Image 186
Crochet as many branches with leaves as you’d like. I crocheted 6

branches (You will see, I have 2 Koroks with 2 branches each, and
another 2 Koroks with 1 branch each).
Image 187
33
9. Branch with long leaf
Leaf
With green yarn
Chain 35 (mark the last chain with a marker/pin, orange in my Image 189), Turn, Skip marked
chain, BLO 34 Sl St (keep in mind that you will use the front loops later), Chain 1, turn to the left
where you started the foundation chain and crochet FLO 1 Sl St in the first loop (remember you
will use the front loops only remaining from when you crocheted in the BLO before), then
continue FLO 2 Sl St, FLO 2Sc, FLO 2HDC, FLO 2DC, FLO 3TR, FLO 2TR in same stitch, FLO 1DC, FLO
1HDC, FLO 1Sc, FLO 2 Sl St, FLO 1Sc, FLO 1HDC, FLO 1DC, FLO 2TR in same stitch, FLO 3TR, FLO
3DC, FLO 2HDC, FLO 2Sc, FLO 2 Sl St. In the marked stitch (orange in my Image 194) make 1 Sl St
(do not remove the marker/pin), Chain 1, make another 1 Sl St in the marked stitch (you can now
remove the marker/pin). Then continue crocheting to the left, BLO 2 Sl St, BLO 2Sc, BLO 2HDC,
BLO 2DC, BLO 3TR, BLO 2TR in same stitch, BLO 1DC, BLO 1HDC, BLO 1Sc, BLO 3 Sl St, BLO 1Sc,
BLO 1HDC, BLO 1DC, BLO 2TR in same stitch, BLO 3TR, BLO 3DC, BLO 2HDC, BLO 2Sc, BLO 2 Sl St,
Chain 1, 1 Sl St. Fasten off, cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing.
Image 188 Image 189
Image 190
Image 191
Image 192 Image 193
34
Image 194 Image 195
Image 196 Image 197
For the branch, take a piece of wire of around 10 - 12 cm. Give the wire a “T” shape to support
the leaf. Take a green yarn and start wrapping the yarn on the wire, starting on one of the ends
of the “T”. Use a round nose pliers to secure the end of the wire (twist the end making a spiral.
This will avoid the yarn to unravel). Wrap the yarn around the wire till you get to the bottom. Use
the round nose pliers again to secure this end of the wire. Cut the yarn, leave a tail to sew the
branch to the arm.
Image 198
Image 199 Image 200
Image 201 Image 202
35
Use sewing pins to secure the branch (the “T”) to the back of the leaf. Using the yarn left for
sewing on the leaf, sew the branch (the “T”) to the back of the leaf.
I’ve made 2 branches with long leaf. It’s up to you which of the two types of branches you like to
use for your Koroks.
10. Masks
You have 6 options of masks to choose from. Crochet the one you like the most, or all of them!
36
FLORFC abbreviation instructions
Before crocheting the masks, I need to show you some instructions on how to deal with
crocheting around a foundation chain. You will need this for masks 1 to 5.
In Image 212 you have a foundation chain. In Image 213 I have marked with colors the front loops
(blue color) and back loops (red color) of the foundation chain.
Image 212 Image 213
Let’s say you finished a foundation chain and you need to Turn. You will skip the first chain (I
will mention this in the instructions as well) and then you will crochet in the back loops only
(BLO) for the entire length of the foundation chain. So, when you Turn you will crochet only in
BLO, in the loops I marked with red (see Image 215).
Image 214 Image 215

When you finish, your foundation chain will look like in Image 216. In Image 216 I marked the
front loops of the foundation chain (blue color) that remained from when you crocheted in
back loops only before.
Image 216 Image 217
37
When you turn again/get to the other side of the foundation chain (see Image 218), you will
crochet only in these remaining front loops (blue in my Images 219 to 222). As you can see in
my images, it could be very confusing calling them front loops, but this is what they are,
remaining front loops from the foundation chain.
Image 218 Image 219
Image 220 Image 221
Image 222
Given that for all the masks you will need to crochet in the front loops only remaining from the
foundation chain (Images 219 to 222), I will abbreviate this FLORFC. I will use this abbreviation
throughout the instructions for the Masks.
38
10.1 Mask 1
For this mask you will use only one color of yarn, green.
1 row 12Sc in magic ring (12) Do not tighten the circle too much, leave a
hole here, you will insert the “nose” later in the assembly section
2 row Sc, Chain 9 (mark the last chain with a marker/pin, red in my Image
224), Turn, Skip marked chain, BLO 8 Sl St (keep in mind that now
you crocheted in back loops only, so the front loops remained and Image 223
you will use them in the next row, where you’ll read FLORFC), Sc in next stitch at the base
(make sure you don’t crochet in the same stitch where you started the chains!), 3Sc, Chain
9 (mark the last chain with a marker/pin, blue in my Image 226), Turn, Skip marked chain,
BLO 8 Sl St, Sc in next stitch at the base, Sc, Chain 8 (mark the last chain with a marker/pin,
orange in my Image 228), Turn, Skip marked chain, BLO 7 Sl St, Sc in next stitch at the
base, 3Sc, Chain 8 (mark the last chain with a marker/pin, yellow in my Image 230), Turn,
Skip marked chain, BLO 7 Sl St, Sc in next stitch at the base (76 stitches, including chains)
Image 225
Image 228 Image 229 Image 230 Image 231
3 row 2Sc, for the next stitches you will only crochet in the front loops remaining from the
foundation chain (remember the abbreviation FLORFC from the instructions, marked with
red lines in my Image 232) FLORFC Sc, FLORFC 2HDC, FLORFC 4DC, in the marked stitch
(red in my Image 233) make 5DC in the same stitch, BLO 4DC, BLO 2HDC, BLO 3Sc, 4Sc,
39
FLORFC Sc, FLORFC 2HDC, FLORFC 4DC, in the marked stitch (blue in my Image 237) make
5DC in the same stitch, BLO 4DC, BLO 2HDC, BLO 3Sc, 2Sc, FLORFC Sc, FLORFC HDC,
FLORFC 4DC, in the marked stitch (orange in my Image 240) make 4HDC in the same stitch,
BLO 4DC, BLO HDC, BLO 3Sc, 4Sc, FLORFC Sc, FLORFC HDC, FLORFC 4DC, in the marked
stitch (yellow in my Image 243) make 4HDC in the same stitch, BLO 4DC, BLO HDC, BLO
Sc, INVDEC (89)
Image 232
Image 233 Image 234
Image 238 Image 240

Image 239
40
Image 245
Image 244
4 row INVDEC, 2HDC, 3DC, 3TR, 4TR in the same stitch, 2TR in the same stitch, 2TR in the same
stitch, 4TR in the same stitch, 3TR, 3DC, skip the next 4 stitches, INVDEC, 3DC, 6TR, 4TR in
the same stitch, 2TR in the same stitch, 2TR in the same stitch, 4TR in the same stitch,
3TR, 2DC, 2HDC, INVDEC, skip the next 2 stitches, INVDEC, 5Sc, 3INC, 3Sc, 2HDC, 2DC,
3INVDEC, 2DC, 2HDC, 2Sc, 3INC, 5Sc, INVDEC. (97) Fasten off, cut the yarn, hide the tail
on the back of the mask using a needle.
41
Image 255 Image 256
10.2 Mask 2
For this leaf you will use two shades of green yarn (a darker and a lighter one). You will make the
foundation chain with the darker yarn, then you switch to the lighter yarn. The last row (the
contour/margin) will be done with darker yarn.
Start with darker green yarn
42

B Cây Lá

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Inspired by

Zelda Breath of the Wild

Crochet pattern by ElizettaCrafts

2. Abbreviations – US Crochet terminology

• 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2)

Then continue crocheting the body.

You will now start alternating the yarn colors.

Image 10 Image 11 Image 12

Image 13 Image 14 Image 15

Image 22 Image 23 Image 24

Image 31 Image 32 Image 33

Image 35 Image 36 Image 37 Image 38

Image 54 Image 55 Image 56

Image 58 Image 59 Image 60

Finishing the Body

Image 68 Image 69 Image 70

Image 76 Image 77 Image 78

• 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2)

Then continue crocheting the body. Image 85

Image 86 Image 87 Image 88

6 row “l”5Sc, “d”5Sc, “l”4Sc, “d”14Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”11Sc,

10 row “l”5Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”19Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”7Sc, “d”3Sc, “l”4Sc

20 row “l”9Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”6Sc, “d”9Sc, “l”3Sc, “d”4Sc, “l”3Sc (38)

Image 98 Image 99 Image 100

2 row 4Sc, INC, 4Sc, INVDEC, BLO 4 Sl St

Image 103 Image 104

Image 105 Image 107

Image 109 Image 110

Image 112 Image 113 Image 114

2 row 6Sc, INC, 6Sc, INVDEC, BLO 6 Sl St

Image 118 Image 119

6 row 3Sc, INC, 4Sc, 2INVDEC

Image 123 Image 124

Image 127 Image 128 Image 129

Image 130 Image 131

2 row BLO 4Sc, FLO 4Sc

Stuff the body and the horns.

Finishing the body

Image 137 Image 138 Image 139

Image 140 Image 141

Image 146 Image 147

Image 148 Image 149

With darker color yarn

8. Branches with leaves and red fruits

Image 158 Image 159 Image 160

Image 162 Image 163

Image 165 Image 166 Image 167

Image 168 Image 169 Image 170

Image 173 Image 174

Image 179 Image 180 Image 181

Image 183 Image 184

Image 185 Image 186

Crochet as many branches with leaves as you’d like. I crocheted 6

Image 188 Image 189

Image 192 Image 193

Image 194 Image 195

Image 196 Image 197

Image 201 Image 202

Image 203 Image 204 Image 205