Adalinda, the Guardian

Fox in the Snow Designs

Copyright Notice: You are certainly welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern
in any way you choose; however, do not copy or redistribute the pattern itself. If you sell
your finished items online, please provide a link to my Etsy website in your description.
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Adalinda, the Guardian

Fox in the Snow Designs Materials


About Adalinda
 Worsted weight yarn
in a variety of colors
Daughter to a powerful red imperial dragon and an expert
(Lion Brand
swordsman, Adalinda is a dragon halfling. With her dragon blood,
Heartland)
she has mastered the power of flight and the ability to wield fire. She
lives in a deserted castle where she provides a refuge for
abandoned Wyrms, Wyverns, and dragonlings. It is there that  2.25 mm and 2.75
Adalinda basks in the glow of her hoard of treasure. mm crochet hooks

Abbreviations  Scissors
mr/mc magic ring/magic circle
ch chain stitch  Stitch markers
sc single crochet stitch
hdc half double crochet stitch  Yarn needle
dc double crochet stitch
tr treble crochet stitch  Stuffing/polyester
dtr double treble crochet stitch fiberfill
picot ch 3, slst into 3rd ch from the hk
inc single crochet increase (2 sc into stitch indicated)  Plastic circle
dc-inc double crochet increase (2 dc into stitch indicated)
tr-inc treble crochet increase (2 tr into stitch indicated)  6 mm safety eyes in
single crochet decrease (single crochet 2 stitches black
dec
together)
double crochet decrease (double crochet 2 stitches  Light pink fabric
dc-dec
together) marker or rouge
rnd(s) round(s)
sk skip  Embellishments for
eggs
slst slip stitch
st(s) stich(es)
…-tbl through back loops only
…-tfl through front loops only
[…] …x repeat instructions in brackets … times
(…) total number of sts in current rnd

About Adalinda  1
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Special Stitches

A ripple stitch looks just like the rippling waves on an ocean,

Ripple Stitch Pattern swaying back and forth and creating a beautifully punctuated,
undulating pattern.

Placing a tall treble crochet stitch between two single crochet

Crunchy Dot Stitch Pattern stitches forces the tall stitch to fold on itself and pouf out. This
pattern creates a fun, three-dimensional fabric.

Amigurumi Techniques
Before beginning, you should be familiar with the amigurumi techniques below. I’ve gathered a list of excellent
tutorials that are well worth a looksee! I found each one especially helpful when I was learning how to crochet
amigurumi. I hope you find them useful as well.

www.planetjune.com/invdec
Invisible Decrease

www.planetjune.com/color
Changing Colors

(1) www.planetjune.com/stripes
Perfect Stripes for Amigurumi (2) http://needlenoodles.com/home/?q=node/139

Invisible Fasten Off (Finishing www.planetjune.com/invfinish

Open Pieces)
Ultimate Finish (Finishing Closed www.planetjune.com/finish
Pieces)
Amigurumi Seamless Join www.planetjune.com/join
(Sewing)
http://engsidrun.spire.ee/blogs/blog1.php/tutorial-finishing-a-flat-
Finishing a Flat Piece (Arms) piece

http://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2014/02/how-to-join-new-
Join New Yarn with a Single
yarn-with-single.html
Crochet Stitch

http://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2014/02/how-to-join-new-
Join New Yarn with a Slip Stitch yarn-with-slip-stitch.html

Amigurumi Hair Tutorial

http://esshaych.blogspot.ca/2009/09/amigurumi-hair-tutorial.html

2
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Legs
The doll is worked from the legs up, so we are going to begin with making our pair of legs. We are going
to work in continuous rounds. Use a 2.25 mm crochet hook for the legs, as well for the body, head, and
arms. Stuff the legs, body, and head, but do not stuff the arms. Do not overstuff the legs or the body.

(Note: Add an additional max of 5 rounds to each leg to make your doll leggier.)

Rnd 1. With Red Heart Super Saver in Buff, sc 4 into a magic circle (4)

Rnd 2. [inc] 4x (8)

Rnd 3. inc, sc 7 (9)

sc in each st around (28 rounds) 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

Rnds 4.-31. (9)
14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31.

(Tip: You are going to be making 252 stitches between rnds 4.-31., and I prefer to count instead of
using a stitch marker since the number of stitches in each round around is very few.)

Be sure to stuff the leg as you go; do not wait until the end. Roll the leg between your hands to smooth
out the stuffing.

Once you have finished your first leg, slst into the first stitch of the last rnd and fasten off invisible. Here
is an excellent tutorial: www.planetjune.com/invfinish.

Next, make your second leg, but do not break the yarn or fasten off. Instead, ch 2 and slst into your
closing/invisible stitch on the first leg. You will lose a stitch on this leg. Do not crochet into the slip stitch.

(Use photos on next page for guidance.)

Legs  3
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Body
After you have chained 2 and slip stitched into the first leg, follow the instructions for rnd 32 below.

sc 8, sc 2 across the ch 2 (back bumps), sc

Rnd 32. (21)
9, sc 2 across the ch 2 (both loops)
Rnds 33.-34. sc into each st around (2 rounds) 33. 34. (21)
Rnd 35. inc, sc 3, inc, [sc 4, inc] 2x, sc 3, inc, sc 2 (26)
Rnd 36. sc into each st around (26)
Rnd 37. sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc, [sc 5, inc] 2x, sc 5 (30)
Rnd 38. With green, sc into each st around (30)
Rnd 39. With brown, sc-tbl into each st around (30)
dec, sc 3, dec, [sc 4, dec] 2x, sc 3, dec, sc
Rnd 40. (24)
2, dec, sc 2
Rnd 41. With purple, sc-tbl into each st around (24)
Rnd 42. sc 2, dec, sc 3, dec, [sc 4, dec] 2x, sc 3 (20)
sc in each st around (7 rounds) 43. 44. 45.
Rnds 43.-49. (20)
46. 47. 48. 49.
Rnd 50. sc 3, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 5 (18)
dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 (begin stuffing the
Rnd 51. (16)
body)

Body  4
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Rnd 52. sc 4, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 3 (14)
Rnd 53. sc 2, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 2 (12)
Rnd 54. sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2 (10)
Rnd 55. With buff, sc-tbl in each st around (10)
Rnd 56. sc in each st around (10)

(Tip: You are going to make 140 stitches between rnds 43.-49. of the body, in case you would like to
count instead of using a stitch marker.)

When you are finished with rnd 56, do not break the yarn. Finish stuffing the body and neck, and then
follow the instructions for the head on the next page. Do not stuff the body and neck very firmly. Roll
the body between your hands to smooth the stuffing out.

(Use photos for guidance.)

Head
We’re going to begin the head straight away. Place the eyes between rounds 10 and 11; the eyes are
7 stitches apart. Also, remember to stuff the head firmly, breaking during rounds to add bits of stuffing.

Furthermore, you may want to (really, you should) place a large circular piece of plastic where the
neck ends and the head begins. By doing this, you will ensure the bottom half of the head remains
rounded. This will also prevent you from overstuffing the neck and chest by blocking the neck hole
while you stuff. Any piece of plastic will do; yogurt covers work well.

Rnd 1. Continuing with buff, sc 10 (10)

Rnd 2. [sc 1, inc] 5x (15)
Rnd 3. sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 4x, sc 1 (20)
Rnd 4. [sc 3, inc] 5x (25)
Rnd 5. sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 4x, sc 2 (30)
Rnd 6. [sc 5, inc] 5x (35)

Head  5
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(trace and cut out plastic circle same size as rnd 6; place
inside of head after rnd 15)
Rnd 7. sc 1, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 10 (38)
Rnds 8.-12. sc in each st around (5 rounds) 8. 9. 10. (eyes) 11. 12. (38)
Rnd 13. sc 1, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 10 (35)
With dark orange, sc in each st around (add widow’s peak
Rnd 14. (35)
this rnd; see photo)
Rnd 15. [sc 5, dec] 5x (30)
Rnd 16. sc 2, dec, [sc 4, dec] 4x, sc 2 (25)
Rnd 17. [sc 3, dec] 5x (20)
Rnd 18. sc 1, dec, [sc 2, dec] 4x, sc 1 (begin stuffing head) (15)
Rnd 19. [sc 1, dec] (10)
Rnd 20. [dec] 5x (5)

(Tip: You are going to be making 190 stitches between rnds 8.-12. of the head, in case you would
rather count.)

Before closing the hole, make sure the head is stuffed very firmly and shaped properly. This part is
extremely important! Again, placing a piece of plastic (about as wide as rnd 6) to give the head a
more rounded shape, as well as to prevent overstuffing the neck and chest, is recommended. If you
choose not to use the plastic circle, the head will be balloon shaped.

Now, the neck should be stuffed well before the plastic circle is placed inside of the head. Place a ball
of stuffing over the neck hole, then bend the plastic circle up to fit the piece inside of the head. Gently
push the edges of the circle down with your fingertips until the piece is level enough to serve tea on.
Notice in the photo below how the circle gave the head a more rounded appearance. Lovely!

Continue stuffing the head with fiberfill. Be sure the plastic circle remains level. You are finished stuffing
when the head is very hard to the touch.

Lastly, break the yarn, pulling through the last stitch completely. Use a yarn needle to weave through
the front loops of rnd 20 to close the hole on top of the head. Use a fabric marker or blush to give her
rosy cheeks.

(Use photos on next page for guidance.)

Head  6
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Hair
There are many ways to add hair to your amigurumi. With Adalinda, I chose to use the “Latch Hook”
Wigs method.

Cut several 20” strands of dark orange yarn. If you would like her hair to be wavy or curly, follow the
tutorial here: http://www.pickledokrabycharlie.com/2013/10/doll-hair-free-pattern-and-tutorial.html.
(Use larger dowels to create looser waves.)

Now, beginning at the hairline, attach the wavy strands of yarn individually using the latch hook
method (see sidebar and photos on next page). Use a 2.75 mm crochet hook to attach the hair to the
head. Once you are finished adding yarn to the hairline, skip a row or two and attach more strands of
yarn.

Next, decide where her part is going to be, because you need to attach yarn on either side of her part
line. The part should begin in the front and end in the back. Are there any visible gaps? If not, you are
finished attaching yarn to her head.

Hair  7
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Hair (cont.)

“Latch Hook” Wigs



Step 1
Insert your hook into the
gap between 2 stitches
and bring it out at the
gap directly above (or
below).

Step 2
Fold a strand of yarn in
half, and using your
hook, pull the middle
through the head,
leaving a short loop of
“hair” on the hook.

Step 3
Yo with both ends of the
“hair,” and use the hook
to pull them through the
loop.

Step 4
Pull the ends downward
to tighten the loop and
secure the hair strand.
Begin by hooking all
around the hairline

Hair (cont.)  8
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Ears
Use your 2.25 mm crochet hook and buff yarn. We are going to be working in continuous rounds, so
be sure to use a stitch marker. Do not stuff the ears. Now, follow the instructions in the table below.

Rnd 1. With buff, sc 3 into magic circle (3)

Rnd 2. [inc] 3x (6)
Rnd 3. [sc, inc] 3x (9)
Rnd 4. [sc 2, inc] 4x (12)
Rnd 5. [sc 2, dec] 4x (9)
Rnd 6. [sc 1, dec] 3x (6)

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing the ears onto the head. The ears are in line with, and
three to four stitches away from, the eyes. Use the amigurumi seamless join technique found here:
www.planetjune.com/join.

Horns
Use your 2.25 mm crochet hook and brown yarn for the horns. We are going to be working in
continuous rounds. Do not use a stitch marker. Begin by making a magic ring with brown yarn, and
then follow the instructions in the table below.

Rnd 1. sc 3 into a magic ring (3)

Rnd 2. [inc] 3x (6)
Rnd 3. sc, inc, sc 4 (7)
Rnd 4. sc, [inc] 2x, sc 2, dec (8)

Ears  9
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Rnd 5. sc 2, inc, sc 5 (9)
Rnd 6. sc 3, [inc] 2x, sc 3, dec (10)
Rnd 7. sc 3, inc, sc 6 (11)
Rnd 8. sc 4, [inc] 2x, sc 4, dec (12)
Rnd 9. sc 4, inc, sc 7 (13)

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing the horns onto her head. Lightly stuff the horns, and then
pin the horns in place before using the amigurumi seamless join technique found here:
www.planetjune.com/join.

Arms
Use a 2.25 mm crochet hook, and buff and purple yarn for the arms. Do not stuff the arms.

Rnd 1. With buff, sc 3 into a magic circle (3)

Rnd 2. [inc] 3x (6)
Rnd 3. inc, sc 5 (7)
Rnds 4.-6. sc into each st around (3 rounds) 4. 5. 6. (7)
Rnd 7. With purple, sc into each st around (7)
Rnd 8. sc-tbl into each st around (7)
sc in each st around (18 rounds) 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Rnds 9.-26. (7)
18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.

(Tip: You’re going to be making 126 stitches between rnds 9 and 26; rather than using a stitch marker,
you may simply count as you go around.)

Flatten the arms and close them by single crocheting over both layers of stitches, then fasten off. This
is a very common amigurumi technique. If you need more guidance, use the tutorial here:
http://engsidrun.spire.ee/blogs/blog1.php/tutorial-finishing-a-flat-piece.

The arms are attached directly below the collar. Use the amigurumi seamless join technique found
here: www.planetjune.com/join.

Arms  10
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Surface Crochet
Remember when we single crocheted through the back loops while making Adalinda’s body? By
doing so, we left behind front loops that we will use to surface crochet along her body.

(Note: When joining the yarn, be sure to hold the doll upside down. This will ensure the right-side of the
fabric is facing outward.)

Collar

Use your 2.75 mm crochet hook, and purple and yellow yarn. We are going to be working in closed
rounds. Begin by joining purple yarn with a slip stitch into a front loop on the back of the body, and
then follow the instructions in the table below.

Join purple yarn with a slst, ch 3, [dc, ch 1, dc] into each front loop
Rnd 1.
around, join with slst to 1st st
With yellow, ch 1, sc into same st as join, [sc, ch 3, sc] in ch-1 space,
Rnd 2. sc into next dc, *[sc into next dc, [sc, ch 3, sc] into ch-1 space, sc into
next dc] repeat from * around, join

Fasten off, and weave in all ends.

Surface Crochet  11
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Sleeves

Use your 2.75 mm crochet hook, and purple and yellow yarn for the sleeves. We are going to be
working in closed rounds, and we will be using a simple edging pattern. Begin by joining purple yarn
with a single crochet to a front loop on the back of the arm, and then follow the instructions in the
table below.

Join purple yarn with a sc, [inc] 4x, sc 2, join with a

Rnd 1. (12)
slst to 1st st
With yellow, ch 1, [sc, ch 3, sc] into same st as join, *[sk 1 st, [sc, ch 3,
Rnd 2.
sc] into next st] repeat from * around, join with slst to 1st st

Fasten off, and weave in all ends.

Surface Crochet  12
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Layered Scallop Skirt

Use your 2.75 mm crochet hook and green yarn for the skirt. We are going to be working in closed
rounds, and we will be using a layered scallop edging pattern. Begin by joining green yarn with a
single crochet to a front loop on the back of the body, and then follow the instructions in the table
below.
Join green yarn with a sc, sc into next fl, inc
Rnd 1. into next fl, [sc 4, inc] 5x, sc 2, join with slst into (36)
1st st
ch 1, sc into same st as join, sc into next 4 sts,
Rnd 2. (42)
inc into next st, [sc 5, inc] 5x, join

Rnd 3. ch 1, sc 3, inc, [sc 6, inc] 5x, sc 3, join (48)

Rnd 4. ch 1, sc 7, inc, [sc 15, inc] 2x, sc 8, join (51)

Rnd 5. ch 1, sc into each st around, join (51)

[ch 5, sk 4 sts, slst into next st] repeat until end, join with slst into
Rnd 6.
joining slst
ch 1, [sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, dc, hdc, sc] into each ch-5 space around,
Rnd 7.
join

Rnd 8. ch 3, working underneath scallops, dc into each st of rnd 5., join

Rnd 9. [ch 5, sk next 4, slst into next st] repeat until end, join

ch 1, [sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, dc, hdc, sc] into each ch-5 space around,
Rnd 10.
join

Rnd 11. ch 3, working underneath scallops, dc into each st of rnd 8., join

Rnd 12. [ch 5, sk next 4, slst into next st] repeat until end, join

ch 1, [sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, dc hdc, sc] into each ch-5 space around,
Rnd 13.
join

Fasten off, and weave in all ends.

Surface Crochet  13
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Brown Garment

Use your 2.75 mm crochet hook and brown yarn. We are going to be working in closed rounds, and
we will be using a scalloped edging. Begin by joining brown yarn with a slip single crochet into a front
loop on the back of the body, and then follow the instructions in the table below.

sc 2, inc, [sc 2, inc] until last 3 sts, sc 3, join with slst to

Rnd 1. (31)
1st st

Surface Crochet  14
 Adalinda, the Guardian
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Rnd 2. ch 1, sc into each st around, join (31)
[sk 2 sts, 5 dc into next st, sk 2 sts, slst into next st] repeat around, ending
Rnd 3.
with a slst into joining slst of rnd 2.

Fasten off, and weave in all ends. If you would like, add embellishments, such as gemstones, to her
garment.

Wings
Use your 2.25 mm crochet hook and red yarn for the wings. We are going to be working in rows. Now,
begin by chaining 13, and then follow the instructions in the table below.

ch 13, sc into 2nd ch from the hook and into

Row 1. (12)
each ch thereafter, turn
Row 2. ch 1, sc 9, [inc] 3x, turn (15)
Row 3. ch 1, [inc] 4x, sc 11, turn (19)
Row 4. ch 1, sc 10, inc, sc 8, turn (20)
Row 5. ch 1, [inc, sc 2, inc] 2x, sc 12, turn (24)
Row 6. ch 1, sc 11, inc, sc 12, turn (25)
ch 1, [inc, sc 4, inc] 2x, sc 8 (leave 5 sts
Row 7. (24)
unworked), turn
Row 8. ch 1, sc 7, inc, sc 16, turn (25)
Row 9. ch 1, [inc, sc 6, inc] 2x, sc 9, turn (29)
Row 10. ch 1, sc 8, inc, sc 20 (30)

Wings  15
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Fasten off, and begin working on the second wing. When you are finished, move on to the red
edgings.

Red Left Wing Edging

Use your 2.75 mm crochet hook and red yarn. Join yarn with a slip stitch to the top corner of the wing
(see photo), and then follow the instructions in the table below.

Join red yarn with a slst, ch 2, picot, dc into same st as join, hdc, sc,
4 slsts, sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc into next st, hdc, sc, 4 slsts, sc, hdc, dc,
Row 1.
picot, dc into next st, hdc, sc, 4 slsts, sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc into
same st, 2 sc into side of dc, 2 sc, sc3tog, sc 4

Fasten off, and weave in beginning tail, leaving the other end to sew the wings onto her back.

Red Right Wing Edging

Use your 2.75 mm crochet hook and red yarn. Join yarn with a single crochet into a stitch at the
bottom corner of the wing (see photo), and then follow the instructions in the table below.

Join red yarn with a sc, sc into next 2 sts, sc3tog, sc 2, ch 2, picot,
dc into 1st st, hdc, sc, 4 slsts, sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc into next st,
Row 1.
hdc, sc, 4 slsts, sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc into next st, hdc, sc, 4 slsts,
sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc into same st

Fasten off, and weave in end, leaving the beginning tail to use to sew the wing onto her back.

Wings  16
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Brown Edgings

Using your 2.75 mm crochet hook, join brown yarn with a single crochet into a stitch at the top of the
right wing (see photo). Continue single crocheting along the top edge of the wing, and then fasten
off, weaving in all ends. Join brown yarn with a single crochet into the picot of the left wing (see
photo), and then continue single crocheting along the top edge of the wing. Fasten off, and weave
in all ends.

Next, join yarn with a slip stitch into a stitch along the top edge of the wing (see photo), ch 1, and
then surface single crochet down the wing to form the first line. Fasten off, and weave in ends. Again,
join yarn with a slip stitch into a stitch along the top edge of the wing (see photo), ch 1, and then
surface single crochet down the wing to form the second line. Fasten off, and weave in ends. Repeat
the same steps for the second wing.

Wings  17
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Headpiece
Use your 2.75 mm crochet hook and purple yarn for the headpiece. We are going to be using a
ripple stitch pattern, and we will be working in rows and in the round. If you need to make the
headpiece larger or smaller, be sure to increase or decrease the number of chains by 3 (e.g., 36, 39,
42, 45, 48). Now, begin by chaining 42, and then follow the instructions in the table below.

With purple, ch 42, [sc, dc 2] into 2nd ch from the hk, *[sk next 2 chs,
Row 1. [sc, dc 2] into next ch] repeat from * around until 3 chs remain, sk 2
chs, sc into last ch, join with slst into 1st st to form a ring

ch 2, [sc, dc 2] into same st as join, *[sk 2 sts, [sc, dc 2] into next sc

Rnd 2.
st] repeat from * around until 3 sts remain, sc into last st, join

Rnd 3. Repeat rnd 2.

Fasten off, and weave in end. Use the other end to whipstitch the bottom row together, and then
weave in end.

Boots
Use a 2.25 mm crochet hook, and brown and yellow yarn. We are going to be working in continuous
rounds and in rows. Be sure to use a stitch marker.

Headpiece  18
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Rnd 1. With brown, 4 sc into magic circle (4)

Rnd 2. [inc] 4x (8)
Rnd 3. sc 1, inc, [sc 3, inc] 1x, sc 2 (10)
Rnd 3. [sc 4, inc] 2x (12)
Rnd 4. sc in each st around (12)
Row 5. sc 6, ch 1, turn (6)
Row 6. sc 6, ch 1, turn (6)
Row 7. dec, sc 2, dec, ch 1, turn (4)
Row 8. dec, dec, ch 1, turn (2)
Row 9. dec, place st marker in st (1)
sc 3 down the side of the boot, sc 6 across the front
Rnd 10. (13)
of the boot, sc 3 up the side of the boot
sc in each st around (8 rounds) 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Rnds. 11.-18. (13)
17. 18.
With yellow, [sc-tbl, ch 3, sc-tbl] into 1st st, [skip next st, [sc-tbl, ch 3, sc-tbl]
Rnd 19.
into next st] repeat until end

(Tip: You will be making 104 sts in between rounds 11. and 18., in case you prefer to count instead of
using a stitch marker.)

Fasten off invisible, and weave in all ends.

Dragon Nest
Use your 2.25 mm crochet hook and brown yarn. If you would like the nest to be larger, use a bigger
crochet hook. Now, we are going to be working in continuous rounds, and we will be using the
crunchy dots stitch pattern to give the nest a very lovely texture. Begin by making a magic ring with
brown yarn, and then follow the instructions in the table below.

Rnd 1. With brown, sc 6 into a magic ring (6)

Rnd 2. [inc] 6x (12)

Rnd 3. [sc 1, inc] 6x (18)

Rnd 4. sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 5x, sc 1 (24)

Rnd 5. [sc 3, inc] 6x (30)

Dragon Nest  19
 Adalinda, the Guardian
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Rnd 6. [tr into next st, sc into next st] (30)

Rnd 7. sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 5x, sc 2 (36)

Rnd 8. [tr into next st, sc into next st] (36)

Rnd 9. [sc 5, inc] 6x (42)

Rnd 10. [tr into next st, sc into next st] (42)

Rnd 11. sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] until last 4 sts, sc 4 (50)

Rnd 12. [tr into next st, sc into next st] (50)

Rnd 13. sc 1, inc, [sc 4, inc] until last 3 sts, sc 3 (60)

Rnd 14. [tr into next st, sc into next st] (60)

Fasten off invisible, and weave in all ends. Turn the nest wrong side out, and then stuff with shredded
paper. Now, onward to the egg-making fun!

Dragon Eggs
Use your 2.25 mm crochet hook and yarn in the color of your choice for the dragon eggs. We are
going to be working in a continuous spiral, so be sure to use a stitch marker. The eggs are stuffed
gradually and firmly. Begin by making a magic ring, and then follow the instructions in the table
below.

Rnd 1. sc 6 into a magic ring (6)

Rnd 2. [inc] 6x (12)

Rnd 3. (sc, inc, sc 2, inc) 2x, sc, inc (17)

Rnd 4. (sc 3, inc) 4x, sc (21)

Rnd 5. sc 9, inc, sc 11 (22)

Rnd 6. sc 21, inc (23)

Rnd 7. sc 5, inc, sc 17 (24)

Rnds 8.-9. sc into each st around (2 rounds) 8. 9. (24)

Rnd 10. sc 4, dec, [sc 10, dec] 1x, sc 6 (22)

Rnd 11. sc 5, dec, [sc 12, dec] 1x, sc 1 (20)

Rnd 12. sc 2, dec, [sc 4, dec] 2x, sc 4 (17)

Dragon Eggs  20
 Adalinda, the Guardian
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Rnd 13. sc 3, dec, [sc 6, dec] 1x, sc 4 (15)

Rnd 14. [sc 1, dec] 4x, sc 3 (11)

Rnd 15. [sc 3, dec] 2x, sc 1 (9)

Break the yarn, pulling through the last stitch completely. Once the egg is stuffed firmly, weave
through the front loops to close the hole. Next, decorate your little dragon eggs with super cute
embellishments. I used Recollections Enamel Dots from Michaels and a hot glue gun. You could also
embroider the eggs with floss. Get creative, and have fun!

Dragon Eggs  21
 Adalinda, the Guardian


Congratulations!

Your Adalinda, the Guardian, is finished!

Congratulations!  22