Sri Lanka - Birding, Wildlife & Tea Holiday
Sri Lanka - Birding, Wildlife & Tea Holiday
Sri Lanka - Birding, Wildlife & Tea Holiday
A 15 day mixed interest luxury holiday with Amila Salgado - Birdwing Nature Holidays
Introduction
The magical island of Sri Lanka was once described by Marco Polo as the finest island in the world.
For many centuries the country has attracted many a traveller to its shores coming in search of its
natural and cultural riches. Sitting south of the great Indian landmass in the shape of a pear, Sri
Lanka has steadily soaked up natural and cultural influxes from it, over the time blending and refining
them into uniqueness.
In this mixed-interest holiday we focus on the Sri Lanka’s abundant birdlife & wildlife & its fabled
‘Ceylon tea’ in absolute comfort. A key feature of this holiday is its top of the range accommodation
which comprise of 4-5 start hotels, a luxury tea bungalow built originally in the days of the Raj, a
jungle boutique hotel & a top range game lodge. Therefore there is absolutely no compromising on
the quality of accommodation, which is 1st class from the start to the end.
It is important to note that we cover all the key areas visited on conventional birding and wildlife
holidays such as Sinharaja Yala, Udawalawe, Bundala, Tissamaharama and the hill zone. This means
we will be covering a wide variety of habitat types such as steamy lowland rainforests, dry-country big
game parks, misty cloud forests, dense monsoon forests, lily-covered inland reservoirs & coastal
mudflats to name a few. Therefore there is absolutely no compromising on the quality of birding and
wildlife viewing either which are central elements of this holiday.
High quality of dining experiences complement excellent hotel stays and birding in this holiday with a
fine mix of western and eastern delicacies from international buffets to fine dining. All hotels have a
good choice of international wine/champaign to further enrich your dining experiences.
This holiday is ideal as family holidays for birders with non birding spouse/children joining in as it
incorporates plenty of ‘other things’ to keep everybody happy. For example a visit to Temple of the
sacred Tooth Relic housing the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha will be special for the culturally
interested. Also if you do this holiday between July-August you will also be able to optionally witness
the colourful Perahara pageant, the famous cultural extravaganza of the Temple of the Sacred Tooth
Relic in Kandy. During our excursion to Kandy, if you prefer, a visit to Pinnawela Elephant
Orphanage could be done to see close to 70 Elephants affected by Human-Elephant conflict being
cared in captivity, which is particularly recommended if children are joining in. We will get a good
insight to the Ceylon tea when we stay three nights in luxury tea bungalows of Ceylon Tea trails,
which is sure to be a top highlight of this holiday.
All the accommodation used on this holiday offer excellent recreational facilities such as spas, pools/
health centres to sample during non-birding breaks/when birders are away doing their thing. Also
there will be good chances to see butterflies, dragonflies, botany and big game including Elephant,
Leopard and Sloth Bear, which makes this even more suitable for people with broader interests. If all
these do not sound as good enough compromises for non-birders, there will also be opportunity to
optionally engage in golfing, cycling & even high intensity scrabble!
Only 5 accommodation options are used in this holiday to cover 14 nights & 15 days, which ensures
longer stays in each location, thereby enabling everybody to enjoy an unrushed holiday. The slow
pace of holiday also makes it ideal for birders with difficulty in walking /keeping up with large groups
which at times move in break-neck speeds. Almost 90 % of our walks will be on flat and gently
sloping terrain. Amila will carry his Kowa TSN 823 telescope during most birding walks & safaris to
This tour is recommended between July-August & Nov-April with the later period particularly being
profitable for birders as northern winter migrants supplement the island’s resident birds during this
time ensuring good numbers. On the other hand, July-August present good chances to see Leopard
at Yala and optionally to see the cultural extravaganza, the Perahara procession in Kandy. We are
mostly likely to see 200 plus species of birds in July-August and 230 plus during Nov-April.
Green Garden Lizard Taj Airport Garden Indian Pitta Southern Coucal
All accommodation used in this holiday are selected with a purpose. For example we use the
luxurious Taj Airport Garden Hotel, Katunayake which is a five star transit hotel just 10 minutes
from the airport on Day 01 to enable you to quickly rest and recuperate after a long flight. We are
careful not to have long drives & visits to ‘key sites’ built-in on the first day as we understand the
importance of giving you a good rest before everything. So there is absolutely no extensive driving
on day 01 & the optional birding for this day is limited to the hotel gardens. Proximity to the airport
is another key factor in our using the Taj Airport Garden Hotel again at the end before your
departure to enable you to relax and refresh before your flight back. This is always better rather than
boarding the plane straight from the jungle!
Day 01. After arriving in Bandaranaiyake International Airport in Katunayake -35 km north of
Colombo the commercial capital in Sri Lanka, we will drive to Taj Airport Garden Hotel, Katunayake
which is just 10 minutes from the airport to rest and recuperate after a long flight. Early dinner and a
welcome briefing will end the first day.
Birding: For anybody not in a mood to rest, a walk in the hotel gardens will produce some of the
commoner birds that we will encounter during the rest of the holiday such as Brown-headed Barbet,
Black-headed Oriole, Common Tailorbird, Asian Koel, Purple-rumped & Loten’s Sunbirds, Pale-
billed Flowerpecker, Southern Coucal, White-throated Kingfisher & Black-rumped Flameback. If this
is not enough to settle your birding juices, a dusk vigil near a mangrove edged corner of the hotel
gardens may produce Black Bittern, Black-crowned Night Heron & if lucky the elusive Slaty-legged
Crake.
Overnight: Taj Airport Garden Hotel is a 5 star transit hotel situated just 10 minutes from the
Bandaranaiyake International Airport and is our preferred retreat after a long flight. Standard rooms
provide satellite television, safety lockers, e-mail and internet connections, 24 hour room service, a
mini bar and in-house & laundry facilities. The hotel offers a 24 hour Coffee Shop, business centre &
Day 02 After recharging the batteries & another brief exploration in the hotel gardens we will retreat
to the cooler hills of Elkaduwa in the wet zone, the epicentre of endemics and reach our luxurious
accommodation Hunas Falls Hotel for next three nights. We will arrive just after noon during the
hottest time of the day so a dip in the hotel’s temperature controlled pool may what you want to do
next after ordering a bite. Late afternoon we will walk in the Simpson’s Trail to look for a good
mixture of mid elevational & hill birds including several sought-after specialties.
Birding: Yellow-fronted Barbet, Sri Lanka Small Barbet, Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot, Layard’s
Parakeet, Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler, Sri Lanka Wood Pigeon, Dull blue Flycatcher, Sri
Lanka White-eye, Sri Lanka Swallow, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Black-naped Monarch,
White-browed Fantail, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Southern Hill Myna, Blue-tailed Bee-Eater, Orange
Minivet, Great Tit, Indian Blue Robin, Pied Thrush, Kashmir Flycatcher, Common Hawk Cuckoo
(potential split), Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Black Eagle, Hill Swallow &
Plum-headed Parakeet.
Non birding highlights: Eurasian Otter, & butterflies including Tree Nymph, Sri Lanka Birdwing,
Commander, Clipper & Blue Bottle. Dragonflies which include Dawn Dropwing, Asian Pintail &
many Purple Skimmer.
Overnight: Hunas Falls Hotel, Elkaduwa lies 1,000m above sea level in the cooler hills of Elkaduwa
just 24 kms from Kandy, the ancient hill capital. It is a popular getaway for honeymooners in Sri
Lanka with its scenic settings & beautifully landscaped gardens vividly dotted with perennials adding
to its romantic atmosphere. The hotel is named after a 300 ft tall waterfall that tumble gracefully
below the hotel. The luxurious rooms come with bath/shower, satellite TV, telephone with IDD,
mini bar, individual safety lockers, piped music/radio, tea/coffee making facilities & a private
balcony /terrace. There is also a traditional Ayurvedha style health centre & a temperature controlled
swimming pool to chill during non-birding breaks. The hotel also has a jogging track, a flood-lit
tennis court, a mini golf course & offer bicycle on rent if you need to work off some pounds. The
surrounding woods offer great wet zone birding – Amila was responsible for researching and naming
most of the popular the nature trails around this hotel and has intimate knowledge of the area.
Day 03 Pre-birding walk around the hotel’s lake trail to catch the early morning activity followed by a
birding breakfast. Thereafter we will walk in the Shaheen Trail for raptors & scenery. Midday at
leisure in the hotel. Late afternoon we will make a short excursion to a nearby forest patch for some
‘high value targets’
Non birding highlights: Grey Flying Squirrel & Giant Squirrel & many other dragonflies and
butterflies.
Day 04 After an enjoyable birding breakfast, we will drive to Kandy (477m), the cultural-epicentre
where age-old rituals continue at the Temple of the sacred Tooth Relic. Kandy is the second largest
city & the last Sinhalese kingdom in Sri Lanka, which was ceded to the British in 1815. We will visit
the above historic temple, which houses the sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha and the Royal
Botanical Gardens founded by the British in 1821. A visit to the Elephant Orphanage could also be
done today at no extra cost to see close to 70 Elephants affected by Human-Elephant conflict being
cared in captivity, which is recommended if children are joining the holiday. If visited during July-
August you will be able to optionally witness the Kandy Perahara, a magnificent pageant involving
many beautifully caparisoned Elephants & traditional drummers and dancers parading in the streets
of Kandy in honour of the scared Tooth Relic of the Buddha. After exploring this historic city, we
will return to our luxurious retreat of Hunas Falls Hotel.
Birding: We will seek for improved views of Common Hawk Cuckoo, Sri Lanka Small Barbet, Sri
Lanka Hanging Parrot, Southern Hill Myna, Sri Lanka Green Pigeon, Alexandrine Parakeet &
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher in the botanical gardens.
Non-birding highlights: a vast day roost of Flying fox & botanical attractions including Giant Jawa
Fig, Double coconut, Cannon-ball tree & orchid house, a historic Buddhist temple – one of the most
important places of worship for the Buddhists. If visited, Elephants at the Pinnawela Elephant
orphanage.
Day 05 After a yet another exciting morning’s birding in the bird rich Simpson’s trail, we will say
good bye to the friendly staff of Hunas Falls Hotel and drive further up to another cooler retreat,
Bogawantalawa to commence our 'tea leg of the holiday. The Ceylon Tea Trails, the luxurious tea
Bungalow accommodation is our base for three nights. Afternoon chill by the pool & soaking in the
scenery. After a fine cuppa, we will do some leisurely birding around the bungalow, which may hold a
few surprises.
Non-birding highlights: Common Garden & Green Garden Lizards, Butterflies which include Ceylon
Tiger, Blue Bottle, Ceylon Treebrown & Blue Admiral. Dragonflies which include Indigo Dropwing,
Shining Gossamawing & Black-tipped Demoiselle.
Overnight: Ceylon Tea Trails represents 4 classic colonial tea bungalows built originally for British
tea estate managers in the days of the Raj in the golden valley of Ceylon tea at Bogawanthalawa in the
south-central Sri Lanka. These sprawling single storey houses sitting 4,000 ft above the sea-level have
been restored into luxury tea bungalows by the owners of Dilmah, a brand synonymous with top
quality Ceylon tea. The four bungalows are named after former British estate managers who lived in
the bungalow-Summerville, Castlereagh, Tientsin & Norwood. Each maintains its individual
character; Summerville with an air of a country cottage, lakeside Castlereagh with an eclectic style of
its own, the high colonial Tienstin and the more modern Norwood; abounding with 60’s character.
Each bungalow consists of 4-6 rooms/suites categorized as Master Suites (except in Castlereagh),
Garden Suites & Luxury Rooms and can be booked individually or collectively. Master suites have
separate living rooms and private gardens (except Tientsin), Garden Suites have private gardens.
All rooms have ensuite bathrooms with twin wash basins and a traditional bathtub with shower.
Daytime temperatures are comfortable in the low 20’s C and at night can drop to 10 C, hence the
fireplaces in all bungalows. In keeping with the private bungalow atmosphere, everything is included
in the rate at Ceylon tea trails, which include bed tea, cooked English or Sri Lankan breakfast, lunch
(packed lunch if on excursion), afternoon cream tea, pre-dinner cocktails, 4 course dinner, house
wines, name brand house spirits, beer, soft drinks, tea & coffee, laundry, calls within Sri Lanka,
guided tea walks and other, bungalow amenities. Rates exclude premium liquor and international
telephone calls. Since the bungalows are on working tea estates, we will see first hand how the
world’s finest tea is made: how tea is harvested by hand in the fields and processed in the nearby
factories in a traditional manufacturing process unchanged for a century. Ceylon Tea Trails has made
it into the elite group of top 130 new hotels for 2006 of Conde Nast Traveler magazine.
We will base ourselves either at Norwood Bungalow (1310 m) or Castereagh Bungalow (1227 m)
both offering super luxury consistent with the Ceylon Tree Trails. Castlereagh offers spectacular
views of the reservoir and rolling hills whereas Norwood sitting a bit higher and bordered by a small
patch of regenerating forest and rolling hills offers rich pickings for birders. Anyway the final
Day 06 After a fine birding breakfast we will take a guided tea tour to learn how your cup of tea
ended up in your breakfast table. We will learn how tea took the centre stage in the country’s
economy through pioneering efforts by James Taylor as the most important export crop from a
modest batch of 23 lbs initially exported in the 19th century up to the present day annual production
levels of over 300 million kg of tea to take a global production share of 10 % and an export share of
20 %. We will see how ‘two leaves and bud’ are still hand picked by tea plucking ladies in the rolling
tea gardens and get a good insight into the production process and tea culture in Sri Lanka.
A possible excursion that could be arranged at no extra cost today is to take a train journey from
Hatton to Pattipola to visit Horton Plains National Park (2,100m), which is the highest plateau in Sri
Lanka comprising of moss-covered cloud forests home to Gondwanaland relic flora and grasslands.
It is the only national park in Sri Lanka where visitors are allowed to walk – one such walk to see
‘World’s end’ -an escarpment with a sheer drop of 870 metres being quite popular. As we may have
bagged all but a couple of montane endemics and most of the other sought-after montane specialties,
it will be a tough decision to make whether to abandon the luxuries of Ceylon Tea Trails in pursuit of
these remaining targets. Again, the final decision is left to you!
Target species: If we take the excursion to Horton Plains: Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush, Sri Lanka
Bush Warbler, Jerdon’s Baza, Zitting Cisticola, Pied Bushchat, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, newly spit
Himalayan Buzzard & the potential splits Indian Blackbird and Black-throated Munia.
Non-birding highlights: If we go on the excursion to Horton Plains - Sambar Deer (similar to Elk),
Bear Monkey the montane race of the vegetarian Purple-faced Leaf Monkey of lowlands, Botany:
Dwarf Bamboo, endemic variety of Rhododendron, Reptiles: Rhino-horned Lizard, Black-lipped
Lizard & Dwarf Chameleon.
Day 08 We will make farewell to the friendly staff of Ceylon Tree Trails and drive down to the dry
lowlands of Udawalawe National Park where a totally different avi-fauna await us. We will explore
this excellent national park comprising of open grasslands interspersed with shrubs & trees in open-
top safari jeeps. Thereafter we will proceed to our comfortable retreat, Yala Village Hotel for three
nights. Late afternoon birding from the hotel’s roof top bar followed by a great buffet dinner with a
good mix of western and eastern culinary delights.
Birding: Sri Lanka Woodshrike, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Blue-faced & Sirkeer Malkohas, Green
Bee-eater, White-rumped Shama, Brahminy Myna, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Ashy-crowned Sparrow
Lark, Black-headed Munia, Indian Silverbill, Common Hoopoe, Indian Roller, White-naped
Woodpecker, Jungle & Grey-breasted Prinias, Painted Stork, Asian Openbill, Rosy Starling, Orange-
breasted Green Pigeon, Great & Indian Cormorants, Blyth’s Pipit, ‘Grey-headed’ Yellow Wagtails,
(maybe also White & Citrine Wagtails), Richard’s Blyth’s & Paddyfield Pipits, Pallid Harrier,
Common Kestral, Crested Hawk Eagle & Grey-headed Fish Eagle.
Day 09. We will collect packed breakfast and explore the wilderness expanse of Yala National Park,
Sri Lanka’s premier national park for big game, which include Leopard, Sloth Bear & Elephant. After
visiting some of the good hotspots for birding we will return to our hotel to spend the warm midday
by the pool. Afternoon, we will drive to Bundala National Park for shorebirds. This is the first
RAMSAR wetland in Sri Lanka and comprise of dry forests & mud flats teeming with many wetland
associated birds. Thereafter we will return to our comfortable base Yala Village Hotel for a fabulous
buffet dinner and to take the day’s long list.
Birding: We could easily top a day list in excess 100 species which come in the form of Black-necked
Stork, Great and Indian Thick-knees, Jerdon’s Bushlark, Little Minivet, Oriental Skylark, Wooly-
necked Stork, Lesser Adjutant, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Ashy Drongo, Curlew, Marsh, Wood
& Green Sandpipers, (Amur Falcon-may be), Lesser & Greater Sand Plovers & Little-ringed Plovers,
Western Reef Egret, Red-necked Phalarope, Indian Scops Owl, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Coot,
Small Pratincole, Little Heron, Garganey, Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveller, Caspian, White-
winged, Whiskered, Common, Large-crested & Little-crested & Little Terns, Indian Cormorant,
Brown-headed Gull and if lucky Greater Flamingo.
Non-birding highlights: Yala Block 1 comprising of 141 sq.km has close to 40 individual Leopards
identified by their unique facial spot patterns, which represent the highest density of Leopards
anywhere in the world. Also noteworthy are Spotted deer, Mugger Crocadile, Wild buffalo, Wild
Boar, Hanuman Langur, Toque Macaque, Stripe-necked & Ruddy Mongooses & Jackal.
Day 10 Morning visit Yala National Park once more to fill any remaining dry zone gaps and return to
the cozy comforts of our hotel as yesterday. Afternoon we will drive to explore a combination of
wetlands at Tissamaharama for more water birds. Tissamaharama, which lies superimposed on the
ancient provincial capital of ‘Magama’ with its stupa, inscriptions, and ancient man-made tanks dating
back to 3rd century B.C. Some of these lily & reed covered tanks; evidence of a once thriving
Birding: Yellow and Black Bitterns, Purple Swamphen, Purple Heron, Cotton Pygmy-goose, Stork-
billed Kingfisher, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Indian Reed Warbler & Spot-billed Pelican, White-
naped Woodpecker. Brown Fish Owl, Jungle Owlet and Indian Scops Owl.
Day 11. We will say good-bye to the dry lowlands and drive to Boulder Garden Hotel, Kalawana our
boutique hotel accommodation for three nights to explore lowland endemics. Late afternoon we will
drive to a wet forest patch to bag a ‘high value target’- the newly discovered avian jewel Serendib
Scops Owl, which was discovered only in 2001! Thereafter we will return to our luxurious retreat for
a yet another fine dining experience.
Birding: Spot-winged Thrush, Sri Lanka Frogmouth & with luck, Serendib Scops Owl.
Overnight: Boulder Garden Hotel, Kalawana – This all-suite boutique hotel is just 30 minutes from
the World Heritage Site reserve of Sinharaja, the premier endemic hotspot. As the name implies the
hotel is set in a boulder-strewn landscape which comprise of large rock paved pathways, natural
caves and fern covered moist boulders presenting a unique experience. There are 10 non-air-
conditioned suites with all having private balconies facing the lush tropical greenery. All these come
with fan, attached bathrooms, tea / coffee making facilities, TV & telephone. The hotel has an
inviting swimming pool. Dining here is 1st class - consistent with all the hotels used in this holiday.
The hotel’s restaurant & bar under the shade of natural caves are sure to take you back to early stages
of evolution!
Day 12-13 Saving the best for the last we will explore the magnificent lowland rainforest, Sinharaja
over the next few days. Sinharaja represents the largest expanse of lowland rainforest in Sri Lanka
and the premier site for endemics where a ‘mixed-species bird flock’ could yield an exciting array of
birds. According to a flock study done since 1981 at this world heritage site reserve, 59 species of
birds have so far been observed to occur in bird flocks which include many sought-after endemics.
Orange-billed Babbler and Sri Lanka Crested Drongo constitute the two nuclear species of the flock
being present in 92 & 89 % of the flocks studied so far. By now we should have bagged most of the
endemics 33 plus endemics & should be able to concentrate only on the key Sinharaja targets.
.
Birding: Red-faced Malkoha, Sri Lanka Blue Magpie, Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush, Ashy-headed
Laughing Thrush, White-faced Starling, Sri Lanka Myna, Legge’s Flowerpecker, Orange-
Non birding highlights: botany: Pitcher plant, Ant Plant, 45 m towering Dipterocarps & Shoreas,
Bamboo orchid, primary & secondary rainforest. Dragonflies: Luzon & Red Skimmers & many rare
rainforest forms, butterflies: Blue Mormon, Tree Nymph, Clipper, Cruiser, Plum Judy, Giant King
Crow & Glad-eye Bushbrown. Lizards: Hump-nosed Lizard, Sri Lanka Whistling Lizard & Kangaroo
Lizard. Mammals: ‘Western’ Purple-faced Leaf Monkey, Giant Squirrel & Layard’s Squirrel.
Day 14 After a lie-in and breakfast followed by more chilling by the pool, we will drive back to Taj
Airport Garden Hotel, Katunayake our luxurious 5 star transit hotel. En route, we will pause at my
residence at Bomiriya for a cuppa & to bag Brown Hawk Owl roosting in his garden, which would be
our final ‘tick’. My local patch contains 110 species including Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Black-
Bittern & Pied Kingfisher. A final log & a fine farewell dinner at the hotel’s specialty Chinese
restaurant will mark the end of this exciting birding holiday.
Non birding highlights: Bingy- My friendly bull dog & a couple of very bad cats.
Day 15 Departure.
Amila holds a record as the first birder from Colombo to visit Sinharaja rain forest in a tuktuk – an
audacious feat achieved to bag the ultra-secretive Bay Owl in a daytime roost in Jan, 2007. He got
hooked on birds in 1989 after a school project in St Peter’s College, and made his first trip to
Sinharaja the following year with a group of schoolmates, which earned him his first glimpses of the
rare birding jewels & a host of birdie nicknames. He joined YZA, a local nature club, at an early age
which was the beginning of the road to turn him into an all-round naturalist. Amila is a certified
‘national-guide’ under Sri Lanka Tourist Board. Before turning a full time naturalist guide, he was a
Manager of a Wildlife tour company. He holds memberships in several local as well as overseas bird
clubs and contributes articles to their ornithological publications. Apart from birding, Amila enjoys
thrashing his clients at Scrabble.