CA18DET ECU Checker Box
CA18DET ECU Checker Box
CA18DET ECU Checker Box
Somehow, if we can access this connector and connect the correct pins to some LEDs, one is able to pull
codes conveniently without removing the ECU from its home. This simple DIY project is a result of some
research and great information obtained from the SXOC (SX Owner’s Club) Forum (www.sxoc.com).
NOTE: While DIY is fun, cheap and allows you to gain heaps of knowledge, be aware that it also carry
some risk! DIY is also DIAYOR (Do it at your own risk!). GOOD LUCK!
Pin 1 - Ignition coil feed from relay (NOT ignition coil 1, 12v when on)
Pin 2 - mode switch
Pin 3 - ECCS relay (12v = ECCS self test OK, switches power to parts of EECS, CAS, AFM and ign relay)
Pin 4 - Green wire - Green led + 4.7K resistor to +12v (pin 3 is good)
Pin 5 - Red wire - Red led + as above
Pin 6 - mode switch
Pin 7 - Diff oil cooler relay 1 (12v when relay is off, 0v when on, switch to ground will operate relay)
Pin 8 - Diff oil cooler relay 2 (12v when pump on, relay 2 is switched by speed)
Pin 9 - Black wire – Ground
I got this from the FSM itself (and the full pin definition from SXOC forums). There’re some other signals
that you can get as you can see from the description above but for the purpose of this DIY, we’ll just
focus on how to conveniently pull error codes from the ECU.
Pins 2 and 6 sets the ECU into various modes. For self-diagnosis, you need to set the ECU to mode
III. When 2 and 6 are shorted/connected, the ECU will cycle through the various modes, blinking 1 time
for mode I, 2 times for mode II etc, there will be a pause after each set of blinks. Right after it has blink 3
times, disconnect 2 and 6 and the ECU will be in mode III.
You will start to see the LEDs blinking. For more details, refer to the FSM on how to interpret/observe
the blinks. Just too tiresome to write it all down here!
I attached a part of the FSM that details the use of a checker box at the end of this
document!
Connections
Here’s where the soldering iron comes in handy and its very simple. Only tricky thing is the LED. You
must connect this correctly for it to light up. The LED consists of an anode and cathode. Please make
sure to observe this fact. The cathode has a shorter lead and larger plate as shown in the LED
construction diagram below.
Cathode
Anode
The Cathode needs to be connected to the negative side and the anode to the positive (voltage supply).
You will need to connect the cathode to a 4.7kOhms resistor to limit the current so as not too draw too
much current from the ECU.
CHECK CONNECTOR
1 2 3 4 5
X 6 X X 7 8 9
SWITCH
This neat plastic casing is part of a grounding/power distribution block. I bought it when I did my DIY
grounding but did not need the casing. You can run the wires out directly to the ECU but I opted to have
something that I can take out and use anytime.
Bottom view.
This way I can leave the connector to ECU permanently in the kick-panel and whenever I want to check
codes, I just use the interconnect to connect to the checker box. I find this most convenient.
Thoughts….
Now, you can do your ECU diagnosis at anytime, easily. Anytime you have a problem while cruising
around, you can just stop by the road and pull codes. Especially helpful if you have some intermittent
problems that simple refuse to show up when you are at the workshop!