Issue #3 Break Down Barrel

RustE11 open Beta

Break Down pistol/rifle

build guide
Designed by: TheRustyMosin
A special thanks to my closed beta testers who helped make this possible with their contributions
to discussion and encouragement.

ProtoUniverse’s Proto Barrel Guide.

AWCY? Presents: the 22LR Carbon Fiber Proto Barrel (odysee.com)

Disclaimer:
If you follow the build guide and don’t mix parts between versions, you will be perfectly legal. If
you decide to stray it’s on you to be aware of local and federal laws regarding SBRs. As RAD as
unregistered NFA items are, it’s also a really stupid thing to get killed or caged over so please do
your due diligence or don’t post your felonies on the internet.

PARTS
Ruger 10/22 Bolt assembly
Ruger 10/22 recoil spring/ charging handle
Ruger 10/22 trigger housing
Ruger 10/22 1x bolt stop pin
7.75” or 16” long (5/16” or 0.315”) barrel liner
AR-15 mag release (optional)
Ruger 10/22 2x receiver cross pin
JB weld
Plastic safe grease
2x 185mm(7.25”) .25” round stock
53mm(2.08”) of 8mmOD 6mmID tubing
2x Ender 3 stock bed spring or equivalent (20mm x 8mm x 1mm wire OD)
327mm(12.9”) or 114mm(4.5”) 25 x 23mm CF Tubing
406mm(16”) or 200mm(7.75”) 10 x 8mm CF Tubing (for 0.315” liner)

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Fasteners by part
Hand Guard
1x 25mm M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Hengstler counter
1x 14mm M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Screws 3x 12mm M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Screw
1x M3 nut
1x Ender 3 stock bed spring Faux Mag assembly
Barrel liner Ar-15 mag release (or spring of similar size)
25 x 23mm CF Tubing 1x 20mm M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Screw
10 x 8mm CF Tubing (for 0.315” liner) Stock/Brace
Rear 2x 185mm(7.25”) .25” round stock
2x 14mm M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Screws
1x 1.5” 1/4-20 bolt
1x 2” 1/4-20 bolt Pistol Grip
2x 1/4-20 nut 4x 6mm M3 Button Head Screw
1x 10mm M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Screws
Brace Lock
1x Ender 3 stock bed spring
1x 30mm M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Screw

Print orientation And Settings

Most of the parts can be printed in whichever orientation is most convenient for you but for best
dimensional accuracy and quality use the depicted orientation. Most mating surfaces were
intentionally designed to be a TIGHT fit so make sure your machine is reasonably dialed in.
The Frame and first two inches of the Rear are the only parts that I would recommend printing at
100% infill, all parts should be printed using 4 walls or more. Other than that, Infill for the non-
stress/heat bearing components
is up to your discretion. For
best results use paint on
support blockers to prevent
supports from filing the holes
on the handguard and the small
pocket at the rear of the frame.

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Assembly
Barrel assembly:
I would Highly recommend a pre reamed 0.375”-0.386” Barrel liner as the reaming process is
fairly time consuming and results are sub-par without the proper equipment.
https://chaszel.com/product/22-long-rifle-barrel-liners/
However, if you insist on doing it yourself, I was able to get good results using a #1 drill bit,
harbor freight vice, cordless drill, and a “Manson .22lr Cylinder Finisher reamer”.
Start by securing your work piece in the vice, lubricate it liberally, and carefully drill 14mm deep
with the #1 bit being sure to keep the bit colinear with the central axis of the liner. Then use a
small screwdriver or similar tool to de-bur and clean chips from the inside of the liner. Liberally
apply cutting oil and begin drilling with the Reamer taking breaks routinely to clear chips and
apply lube, take care to make sure you never spin the bit backwards otherwise you’ll ruin the
Reamer. Drill as deep as you can without allowing the hard shoulder of the reamer to cut into the
face of the liner. Once you have your liner prepared, you’ll use either a Dremel or a pipe cutter to
cut the liner and smaller CF tube to 406mm(16”) for a rifle or 200mm(7.75”) for a pistol and the
larger tube to 327mm(12.9”) for a rifle or 114mm(4.5”) for a pistol. Epoxy your liner to the
inside of the smaller CF tube, for best results prepping and installing take a look at the Proto
Barrel Build Guide linked at the beginning of this guide, it goes far more in depth on this portion
of the build just take care to cut the CF tubes to the lengths specified in red/green on this guide
depending on what barrel length you want. Once your barrel is prepped and extractor slot cut,
epoxy it into the handguard making sure that the extractor cut on the barrel lines up with the cut
on the frame. Ensure the breech of the barrel is extruded 30mm from the rear face of the barrel
lock as shown below.

A cutaway of the locking mechanism is shown below to install the lock you slide the ender3 bed
spring into the small circular recess in the breech face of the handguard then insert the pill tab
into the hole ensuring the through hole can be seen through the cutout then using a 14mm M3
bolt secure the slider to the pill tab as shown below.

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 Issue #3 Break Down Barrel

Side note: all proto muzzle devices are compatible with this build.
Rear:
For the Rear insert the ¼-20 nut into the small rectangular cut on the back right side of the frame,
ensure its seated properly then slide the rear into place and use the 1.5” bolt to secure it to the
frame. Next seat the other ¼-20 nut into the cut out on the tang of the rear, slide your pistol grip
over it and screw the 2” bolt in from the bottom of the pistol grip (after a while the pistol grip
may start to wobble a little so I like to epoxy my pistol grip on as well).
Stock/Brace:
ONLY For builds with barrels 16” or longer, Do not attach this to your pistol build it would be
an illegal SBR.
For the Brace/Stock arms you will epoxy both rods into your stock/brace then use a file or a
dremel to make 2 cuts in your round stock both should be 8mm wide and 2mm deep. They
should start 17mm from the exposed end of the rod as shown below.

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These cuts will allow the brace/stock to lock in place, so ensure they are made on the underside
of the rod. The locking mechanism is simple enough to need no instruction but I would
recommend applying a plastic safe grease to the locking tab to allow it to slide freely as well as
printing the stock buttplate in TPU if you decide to build a rifle length E11.
For T-bar installation make sure you have a few extra printed as its not a matter of if they break
but when. If your confident that your material will hold, or you’re just planning to be careful
when handling the gun, you can epoxy them into place otherwise just ream the holes on the
handguard with a 1/8” drill bit and press the bars in place. Printing them in resin would be much
more effective than PLA but neither myself nor my early beta testers have done this so be sure to
post your results if you decide to try it. TPU has been reported as extremely successful by beta
testers.

I have included STEP files with this package, There are a million forms and flavors of E11 in
the Starwars Universe if you decide to remix it WHILE following all local/federal gun laws I
would love to see it, but PLEASE do not send me your felonies.
This is not an official release so the BOM and geometry are all subject to change in future
updates. If you have any questions or concerns regarding this build you can find me on Twitter,
RocketChat, and Matrix all under the same name.
Happy Building!

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To BE Continued

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