Telstar 28 Trimaran

Owner ’s Manual
VERSION 1.3

Hull ID:

Name:

Engine Serial #:

Trailer Serial #
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Telstar 28 Trimaran and welcome to the
Performance Cruising family. There are close to 1000 Performance Cruising multihulls
cruising all over the world, and we’re pleased to include you as a member of this
select group of discriminating sailors who appreciate performance, value, form, and
function. To better your appreciation of the Telstar’s design and function, we strongly
encourage you to thoroughly read through the entire manual before getting underway
on your new boat.

This manual covers the proper operation and maintenance of all the aspects and
systems aboard the Telstar 28 Trimaran. If a particular topic isn’t covered in enough
detail, let us know via e-mail. We regularly update the manual and make new versions
available through the Performance Cruising Owner InfoCenter website. The
InfoCenter website also hosts an owners’ technical forum that addresses specific
questions with correct and safe answers as well as advice from the factory or even other
Telstar 28 owners.

A number of topics included in this manual are covered in more detail through the
use of short movies which are available on disc from Performance Cruising and/or
through the InfoCenter website. Topics that offer a movie are indicated with a movie
icon:
e
movi

Whether this is your first boat or your first multihull, we encourage you to obtain
handling and operating experience before assuming command of the boat. Your dealer
or the factory can recommend local sailing schools and/or competent instructors.

Be sure to keep this manual onboard for quick reference. You can always download
and print an extra copy from the website. The manual will help you get better, more
trouble-free performance and long life from your boating investment.

We wish you and your crew many years of enjoyable, safe sailing on your Telstar 28.

Performance Cruising Inc.

 Telstar 28 owners Manual  | iii

Table of Contents

1 Mast Raising & Lowering System 1

Raising The Mast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Lowering the Mast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

2 Retracting and Extending the Outriggers 5

Extending the Outriggers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Retracting the Outriggers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

3 Rigging, Sails, and Sailing 9

Mast & Boom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Tensioning the Rigging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Sails. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Centerboard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Rudder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Reefing Guidelines. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

4 Engines 15
Tiller Link Steering System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Operating Under Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

5 Construction 17

6 12 Volt System 19
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
12 Volt Items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

7 Propane System 21
Safety/Checking for Leaks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
iv |  Table of Contents

8 Fresh Water, Plumbing, & Head 22

9 Mooring and Anchoring 24

Storing on a Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

10 Trailing, Launching, and Retrieving 26

Trailing Advice. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Launching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Retrieving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Use of a Travel Lift. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

11 General Maintenance 32
Botom Paint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

12 Operational Checklists 37
Mast Raising. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Mast Lowering. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Launching / Retrieving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

13 Options & Accessories 41

14 Parts Supplier Information 43

15 Reference 45
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 

1 Mast Raising & Lowering System

The T2 can be equipped with a revolutionary mast rais- or lengthened using a nut at the base of each frame.
ing and lowering system that is unlike anything heretofore ‘C’ frame pivots off of frame ‘A’ and extends aft over the
used for raising and lowering the mast on a sailboat. Using companionway hatch. The frame has a 11” PVC roller on the
this system, one person can comfortably raise or lower the end and two attachment points and two 18” stainless steel
Telstar’s 35’ mast in just a few minutes - without the trailer. props to hold the frame up when not in use for raising /
The system is made up of the following components: lowering the mast.
• 40’ of 1/2” control line
‘D’ frame is about 9’ long and pivots on the deck 5” aft of the
• Four (4) sets of stainless steel “A” frames, hereafter mast and is joined together with a 4” plate in front of the
referred to only as ‘frames’ mast over the lower spreader. At the top of this frame are 4
• Mast, Forestay, and Backstay welded rings to attach rope.
• Mast Base
Frames ‘C’ and ‘D’ are only used to raise/lower the mast the
The frames are referenced in order of relative importance to first or last 6’. Two ropes connect each side of the boom
the system: A, B, C, and D. and mast between the attachment points on the rear of a
frame ‘C’ and the top of a frame ‘D.’ Two other ropes attach
‘A’ frame is 9’ 6” long with a 2” diameter and acts as a lower to the top of a frame ‘D’ and go down the stopper plate. A
shroud from the lower mast spreaders to the chain-plates single line then attaches to the plate and goes through the
on the deck. The frame is a stainless tube within a tube base of the mast, through a centering pulley 18” aft of the
and can be lengthened or shortened using the nut at the mast and then to the sheet winch at the side of the cockpit.
base of the frame.

‘B’ frame extends from 3’ up the mast to the forward

portion of the deck. Like frame ‘A,’ frame ‘B’ can be shortened

Control Line

Mast Support Stopping Plate

“D” Frame “A” Frame

“C” Frame
Guide Block “B” Frame

Fore-Stay
  |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

e
Raising the Mast movi When the mast is about 6’ up, the stopper plate that con-
For convenience, the material covered in this section is also nects the control line to the two lines that go to frame ‘D’
offered in an abbreviated format as part of the Operational will stop as it tries to go through the base of the mast. At this
Checklists in Chapter 12. point the control line is now basically pulling the base of the
mast aft.
When the Telstar is delivered, all the control lines and frames
are simply tied to stop movement in transportation. The When the mechanism of raising the mast changes from
mast can be raised on the trailer or in the water. If raising the frame ‘C’ to frames ‘A’ and ‘B,’ a transition in load occurs as
mast on the trailer, first check for any overhead impediments ‘A’ and ‘B’ begin to take the load. The maximum load on
such as tree branches or power lines. Be sure to move the the control line during the transition is about 150 lbs. The
trailer to a level an area as possible for raising the mast. Also increase in load is normal and is easily handled by the slow
consider your approach to the launch ramp and check for speed on the Lewmar 40 winch.
any impediments such as branches or power lines.
If you are unsure of the load on the line at any point, stop
Start by untying the mast and frames. Check that all lines winching and inspect the frames, control lines, and running
used to secure the mast and rigging have been removed. In rigging for any type of problem such as a incorrectly posi-
most cases, the mast, frames, and rigging are tied using the tioned toggle, turnbuckle, or line. Correct the impediment
same 1/4” black line. Remove all these lines before raising before continuing. If necessary, lower the mast to reduce
the mast. the load, correct the problem, and begin again.

Check that bolts connecting the plate to frame ‘D” are tight. It is possible to leave the boom and lowered main sail
Loosen the knots used to secure the line on frame “D”, but attached during raising/lowering. However, we suggest
don’t untie the knots to each of the metal bails. There are 4 becoming familiar with the system without the boom and
lines tied to these bails - keep these knots in place. main sail attached before advancing to the more compli-
cated procedure.
Attach the wind transducer and VHF antenna to the top of
the mast. Take care not to drop the nut associated with the For short hauls, it is possible to leave the main sail and boom
VHF antenna. Make sure the wire prongs on the end of the attached, although this will complicate the system and
wind transducer go in straight. requires an extra degree of precaution to ensure all lines are
operating correctly. If the boom and sails were left on, it will
Apply a small amount of grease to the mast base on the be necessary to periodically lift the aft end of the boom to
deck so that the mast can slide easily on the mast base. make sure that the bulk of the sails are not binding up on
various ropes.
With the 3/8” control line back to the starboard winch, raise
frame ‘D’ by hand and tighten the control line around the As the mast gets close to vertical make sure the side shroud
sheet winch. The control line is the 3/8” line that goes from turnbuckles are not twisted aft. Be sure to also check the
the sheet winch in the cockpit, through the base of the mast back stay to confirm that it is not caught or tangled in any
and is attached to a stopper plate on the forward side of the way.
mast. The two lines attached to the other end of the stopper
plate go to the top of a frame ‘D.’ With 4 clockwise turns of As the mast gets vertical the roller genoa, which was held in
the control line around the winch, feed the line into the self- a fork at the base of the mast, will need to be lifted to stop
tailer and simply start winching to begin raising the mast. As it scratching the foredeck or front window. If you are raising
you progress, stop to inspect the running rigging and frames the mast unassisted, it is advisable to wrap the roller furler in
to ensure that all are in the correct position and operating a layer of carpeting so it will not scratch any surface.
correctly.
Continue winching and guide the base of the mast into the
As frame ‘D’ is winched towards base of mast, the rollers on mast base receptacle. As the mast comes to rest in the verti-
the back of frame ‘C’ will support the mast and start to lift the cal position, leave the control line tight on the winch. The
mast. Frame ‘A’ and ‘B’ will stabilize the mast and in fact will back of the mast should be flush against the mast base on
cause the front of the mast to lift slightly. the deck. If it is not, tighten the control line just enough so
that the mast clears the two small holes on the forward end
The load in the control line is minimal when first lifting the of the mast base. Use a large flat-headed screwdriver to pry
mast, then gradually increases to a maximum load before the mast back into position. If necessary, it is acceptable to
again easing to a minimal load. kick the mast back so that it rests flush against the mast base.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 

Depending on the rig, you may be able to now attach the mast, be sure to cleat off the line in addition to running the
fore-stay using the shackle pin and retaining cotter pin. If line through the winch self-tailer.
the fore-stay doesn’t have quite enough clearance to insert
the pin, cleat the spinnaker halyard off on the fore-deck cleat Un-cleat and remove roller-furling line from the guide block.
and tighten using the mast winch. This will force the top of Securely coil the line at the base of the roller furler.
the mast forward slightly giving plenty of clearance for the
fore-stay pin to insert easily. Remove the bolts or pins at the mast base that stop the mast
base moving forward and disconnect the electric plugs at
If the spinnaker halyard was employed, release it and secure the base of the mast.
behind the mast (the spinnaker halyard should always be
left behind the spreaders so that it can not get caught in the The mast can be lowered with the boom and lowered
genoa, as the genoa is rolled in.) main sail attached, but we recommend getting familiar
with the the operation before advancing to a more
Insert bolts through holes in the mast base receptacle at the complicated process.
base of the mast so that the base of the mast can not go
forward. Connect up the lines from frame ‘D’ to the attachments in
the middle of the 2 ¼” pvc roller on frame ‘C’. Disconnect the
Tighten electric plugs for the wind transducer, mast light, 18” stainless steel props from frame ‘C’ and stow.
and VHF radio antenna at the base of the mast.
If lowering with the boom attached, run each line along
If the boom was left attached, lower the boom and connect either side of the boom, disconnect the gooseneck and
the mainsheet and gooseneck. Alternatively, connect the secure with a ¼” line approximately 6” away (with ability
boom and main sail. to adjust later). Otherwise, disconnect the main sail and
boom completely.
Disconnect the control line from the sheet winch, coil and
secure to the base of the mast. Also disconnect the lines Disconnect the main sheet and raise the boom up and align
going to frame ‘C’ and stow at the mast base. with the mast as much as possible using the topping lift.

The rigging should be correctly tensioned and not need Un-cleat and free the roller genoa furling line and attach
adjusting. the spinnaker halyard to the foredeck cleat. Tighten the
spinnaker halyard using the winch and cleat off. Apply
Route the roller genoa furling line through the guide on the enough load to enable disconnecting the head-stay. Also
starboard deck and tighten the furling line. check that the back-stay is loose and free from impediment.

e
Lowering the Mast movi Disconnect the head-stay by straightening the cotter pin
For convenience, the material covered in this section is also and pulling the bolt - being careful not to drop either
offered in an abbreviated format as part of the Operational overboard.
Checklists in Chapter 12.
To begin lowering the mast, give the control line a small
Before lowering the mast, check for clearance behind and amount of slack with one hand while applying a slight tug to
in front of the boat. The mast requires 6’ clearance from the the back-stay with the other hand. This action will pull the
stern and 5’ clearance from the bow. top of the mast back slightly and consequently, the bottom
of the mast will move forward. Always keep a firm hand on
Route the control line that goes through the base of the the control line as the mast is lowering.
mast back to the starboard sheet winch and tighten with
four wraps around the winch. Route the line into the self- The mast will start to come aft at the top and will be slightly
tailer. If you stop at any point while lowering or raising the lifted as frame ‘A’ takes load. The base of the mast lifts as it
moves forward.
Remember: When lowering the mast,
the control line is the single point of
Slowly and carefully ease the control line out to allow the
control that lowers the mast slowly and mast to come down. Keep the four wraps around the winch
in a controlled manner. Always inspect so the movement can be stopped easily at any point. Stop
the line before lowering the mast and at various intervals to see that all lines, toggles, and stays are
always keep a firm hand on the line or cleat coming down in order and that none are caught or pinched.
the line off at the cleat on the coaming.
  |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

As the top of the mast moves aft the roller furling will need
to be controlled so that it does not scratch the foredeck as it
The mast raising/lowering system is
comes aft. If lowering the mast unassisted, it is advisable to ingeniously engineered but requires
wrap the roller furling in some carpeting to avoid scratching common sense and some basic training
the front window or foredeck. As the mast is lowered, the to be familiar with the approximate
head-stay can be set in the fork at the base of the mast. loads in the control line during opera-
tion. If at any point, you suspect there may
be too much load on the control line, stop and
As the mast lowers the first two-thirds of the way, the control review all the halyards, lines, stays, etc. for any
line that goes through the base of the mast is in effect impediments to the normal operation of the
connected to the base of the mast because the stopper system. Never force movement by overloading
plate to which it is connected is hard up against the opening the control line.
though the base of the mast.

About two-thirds of the way down the line that goes from
frame ‘D’ to frame ‘C’ starts to lift frame ‘C.’ Three quarters of
the way down frame ‘C’ is almost vertical and catches the
mast.

As frame ‘C’ starts to take load, frame ‘D’ starts to come up

because the stopper plate that was hard against the base of
the mast now starts to move up the mast.

Continued easing of the control line drops the mast to the

deck with frame ‘D’ positioned vertically. Continuing to ease
the control line allows frame ‘D’ to drop down.

If the sails are to be left on continually monitor the move-

ment of the sails and associated rope to make sure nothing
binds up or scratches the deck.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 

2 Telstar Outrigger Folding System

In general, the basic design of a trimaran involves a beam Beam Extended - 17' 11” (215”)

roughly 2/3 the length of the boat. In the case of the 27’ 6” Beam with One Outrigger Extended: 13' 3" (159”)
Telstar, this translates into an 18’ beam. An 18’ beam offers
Beam Retracted 8' 7" (96”)
many practical and performance advantages but is a major
disadvantage for mooring the boat at a marina. That is,
unless, the boat is capable of transforming to a more
narrow beam.

Over the years, designers have developed a number of

methods for narrowing the beam of a trimaran. The most
common method is to fold the outriggers down. Folding
the outriggers down can be done in the water however;
Link
it is not practical to leave the boat in the water for an
extended period of time in this configuration nor is the craft
particularly stable with the outriggers folded down. Yet
another method of reducing the beam is to swing the
outriggers aft and along the side of the main hull.
Unfortunately, swinging the outriggers aft increases the
overall length of the boat and also negatively affects the
stability.

The design of the Telstar 28 provides a new method of

reducing the boat’s beam without negatively affecting
stability or increasing the overall length. What’s more is that
the outriggers retract and extend easily so that even with Link Cross Arm

the boat underway at slow speeds, the outriggers can be

extended or retracted.

Fundamentally, the Telstar’s folding system relies on a link

“box” or intermediate arm that joins the outrigger to the
main hull both fore and aft. The link box rotates about
180 degrees which extends or retracts the outrigger which
follows a semicircular horizontal path. When retracting, extends and/or retracts. To keep the link boxes operating in
the link box retracts into a recess built into the main hull unison, there is a shelf connected to a pivot on each box, 9”
while the outrigger sets against the main hull without aft of the main connection. As the boxes rotate the shelf
increasing the overall length of the boat. With both outrig- also moves first going out, then forward, and finally back
gers extended, the beam is 17’ 11” . With both outriggers in. The aft end of the link boxes are curved down to act as a
retracted, the overall beam is 8’ 7”. With a single outrigger cam allowing the shelf to slide into position. With the outrig-
extended, the beam is 13’ 3”. gers extended, the shelves provide a convenient path for-
ward without having to step down onto the outrigger. With
The link boxes function by taking the tension and the outriggers retracted, the shelves partially fill in the area
compressive loads to support the outriggers. The stainless between the main deck and the top of the outrigger deck.
steel hinges that are built into the boxes include a strap
which is bolted to the top and bottom of the boxes. The aft The pivot on the hinges include a Rulon® bearing inside
bulkhead on each box takes the shearing loads from the the hinge. Rulon® is a plastic bearing material with low
outriggers. The boxes take the torsion load as the outrigger coefficient of friction, excellent abrasion resistance, and it
  |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

will not corrode. It requires no lubrication and is capable of

performing under severe temperature (-400° to +550°F) and
corrosive conditions. The Rulon® bearings on each of the
pivots greatly reduces the bearing tolerance and enables the
outriggers to extend and retract smoothly.

The outriggers are locked into either the extended or

retracted positions by a restraining wire which extends from

When extending or retracting the outriggers, take
care not to pinch anything between the link shelf
and main hull; especially fingers, toes, or lines!
Before tightening the restraining line, always check
for anything caught between the shelf and main hull or
between the intermediate boxes.

a padeye located on the forward inboard outrigger deck and

back towards the stern. Near the stern, the wire is tied off
to a 5/16” line routed to a line jammer located in the cockpit
locker. With the outrigger extended, the line is tightened
through the jammer to lock the outrigger in the extended
position. Conversely, the outrigger can be locked in the re-
tracted position by tightening the line once the outrigger is
retracted. The restraining wire and line should be inspected
periodically for wear and tear and replaced as necessary.
An additional line through another jammer in the cockpit
locker tightens the trampoline/canvas between the outrig-
ger and main hull. The line is tied off to a block which rides

The series above shows the outrigger retracting. The link shelf keeps both intermediate boxes working in unison so that the
outrigger bow and stern retract and extend in parallel.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 

on a wire extending through the trampoline. By making this intermediate outrigger box; the surfaces should be flush
line tight, the trampoline stretches tight and flat for walking against one another. With the line tight, take it off the winch
on. The material will easily take a persons weight, but its and drop it in the locker.
primary purpose is to cut down on spray coming off the
main hull while underway. The trampoline tightening line simply needs to be drawn
hand tight through the jammer and should not be tightened
The tracks on the sides of the main hull to which the canvas using the winch.
is attached should be kept well lubricated with spray-on
silicone. The slugs in the track must be able to move forward With the outriggers extended, insert the outrigger lifeline
and backward easily to allow proper extension and stanchions and connect the ends of the lifeline to the pad-
retraction. eyes fore and aft.

Extending the Outriggers Retracting the Outriggers

To extend the outrigger on either side, first unlock the To retract the outriggers, first unlock the jammers in the
jammer in the cockpit locker and make sure that both the cockpit locker and make sure both the restraining line and
restraining line and trampoline tightening line are free and trampoline tightening line are free and unobstructed.
unobstructed.

1 2 3 4

Walk forward to the foredeck and take hold of the stain- Be sure that the outrigger lifeline stanchions and lifelines
less steel pulpit. Use one foot to push the outrigger deck have been removed and stowed (and are not lying on the
forward and out (Photos 1-3). The outrigger should begin outrigger deck).
to move outwards following a semicircular path. Once the
outrigger deck is clear, step down onto the outrigger deck Move forward on the outrigger deck and face the outrigger
and push against the main hull or pulpit with your hands to bow. Grab hold of the forward life-line and pull it toward
extend the outrigger out completely (Photo 4). Take care yourself to start the outrigger moving forward in it’s semi-
not to pinch anything such as lines, fingers, or toes in be- circular path (Photo 5). As the outrigger moves forward,
tween the main hull and link shelf as the outrigger extends. step up onto the forward portion of the outrigger deck and
Also, do not walk on the link shelf until the outrigger is fully take hold of the stainless steel pulpit. Using your feet,
extended. Once the outrigger is fully extended, the main continue to work the outrigger forward and then back
hull acts to support the shelf and eliminate any flexing. towards the stern (Photo 6). You will be facing towards the
stern when doing this so that, while holding the pulpit with
With the outrigger extended 90% or more, go back to the both hands, you can walk backwards on the outrigger deck
cockpit, lock the jammer handles down, and pull tight on the to retract it completely (Photos 7,8).
outrigger restraining line to extend the outrigger completely
and lock it into place. The restraining line is the line going Go back to the cockpit over the main hull deck (or other
through the inboard most jammer. Tighten the restraining extended outrigger), lock both jammer handles down
line completely by placing it around the sheet winch and and then pull tight on the restraining line and trampoline
tightening it slightly. To check if the outrigger is extended tightening line.
completely, inspect the joint between the outrigger and Troubleshooting
  |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

If you are having trouble extending the outrigger on either poline tensioning line are routed correctly and not caught
side, first check that the jammer in the locker(s) are not under or around a padeye or hinge.
locked down and that the lines are free and unobstructed.
This is the most common problem associated with folding A “stuck” outrigger is usually the result of retracting the out-
the outriggers. rigger very tightly for trailing. Retracting the outriggers with
the boat in the water rarely results in a problem.
If the jammer is not locked and the lines are free, the
problem could be that the outriggers are retracted especially If you are having trouble retracting an outrigger, again first
tight and require a bit more force to extend. For instance, if check that the jammers, outrigger restraining line, and
the outriggers have been retracted with the boat out of the trampoline tensioning line in the cockpit locker are free and
water and on the trailer, then it is likely as tight as possible. unobstructed. Next, check that the trampoline slider track
Push hard out and forward on the outrigger deck with one is well lubricated. Lastly, check for any obstructions on the
or both feet while grasping the stainless steel pulpit on the outriggers themselves - lines, lifelines, something left on the
foredeck. outrigger deck. Retracting is rarely a problem.

5 6 7 8
If the outrigger still doesn’t extend, go back to the very end
of the retracted outrigger stern deck. You will grasp the
stainless steel pushpit railing and use your feet to push the
outrigger forward just enough to free it up. Then go forward
and push against the outrigger from the foredeck to extend
it outwards.

The outrigger hinges on their own cause little friction when

extending or retracting. The trampoline sliders, however,
require lubrication to work well. Regularly apply spray sili-
cone to the slider track on the main hull to keep the sliders
moving freely.
You may also check that the restraining line and/or tram-
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 

3
Specifications
Rigging, Sails, and Sailing

To begin rigging the T2, raise the mast (as described in

chapter 1) and attach the boom using the combination
LOA
(Length Over All)
27’ 8” bolt/cotter pin through the gooseneck on the mast. When
attaching the boom, be sure to check that the reefing hook
LWL
26’ 6” on the gooseneck is in the ‘up’ position. After connecting the
(Length Water Line)
boom, attach the topping lift (boom lift) line to the back of
Beam
18’ the boom. Next connect the main sheet block to the boom
(Extended)
Beam
with the ring pin.
14’
(Single Outrigger Retracted)
Beam
There are three lines that go through the boom and termi-
8’6” nate at the end. The line with the shackle is the out-haul
(Both Outriggers Retracted)
Displacement line, the longest line is the second reef line, and the shorter
(Including engine, mast, sails, rigging, 3600 lbs length line without a shackle is the first reef line. Be sure to
bimini, dodger, and options) tie stopper knots on both ends of these lines to prevent a
Draft line from being pulled through the mast! While installing
1’
(Board Up) the main sail, run the first reef line through the first grommet
Draft on the clue of the sail, then back around the boom before
4’ 6”
(Board Down) tying back onto itself to form a self-tightening loop around
J the boom. The line does not need to be run around a
11’
(Base of Fore Triangle) specific point on the boom. Run the second reef line in
P
32’
the same manner.
(Length of gooseneck to top of mast)
E
11’ 3” Tensioning the Rigging
(Length of Boom)
Tensioning the Telstar rigging represents a unique
I
(Headsail halyard hoist to 34’ 6” challenge given the mast raising/lowering system, swept-
sidestay termination) back spreaders, and large sail area. Fortunately, the rig is
LLJ tensioned at the factory and may only require minor
(Luff Length of Largest Head Sail - 36’ 6” adjustments thereafter. Do not make any adjustments to the
Screacher / Spinnaker) frames without first consulting with Performance Cruising.

Part of the challenge of correctly tensioning the rig has

Mast and Boom to do with determining whether frames ‘A’ and ‘B’ are in a
The T2 is equipped with a 35’ US Spars Delta mast. The mast neutral, compressed, or tensioned state. The frames are
is comprised of a G6 alloy and anodized to .25 microns. The much like large turnbuckles in that they can be shortened
mast weighs approximately 75 lbs and includes two sets of or lengthened from a threaded connection on the ends. To
swept-back spreaders (20 degree). The mast also includes correctly tension the rigging, frames ‘A’ and ‘B’ are placed in a
some custom work to enable the “A” frame pivot points for neutral state while the shrouds are tensioned. Afterwards the
raising and lowering the mast. frames are placed in slight tension.

The mast is stayed using a 1/4” discontinuous cap shrouds To tension the rigging, start by removing the locking pin
(from the speader up) and 5/16” intermediate shrouds, The from frame “A”. Rotate the ¾” nut until there is a 3/8” in gap
lower shrouds are replaced with the “A” frame which takes between the ¾” nut and outer tube. This ensures that frame
tension on the windward side and compression on the “A” can not take compression.
leeward side. The “A” frame also works to take some of the
compression load off the mast post. Continually loosen frame “B” so that it is not in tension or
compression. Tighten the back-stay by hand as tight
 10 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

as possible and cleat off.

To extend the life of your sails, either Dacron or laminate,
Next, use a flat head screwdriver and pair of vice-grips to be sure to observe the following:
tighten the port and starboard cap shrouds to approximately 1. Always replace the main sail cover to protect the
600 lbs on each side. You can measure the load using a Loos material from the sun’s ultraviolet rays.
Gauge. Sight the mast to be sure it remains straight and in
column. 2. Do not let the main or genoa sails flog excessively.
Some flogging is inevitable, but should be minimized
as much as possible.
Next tighten the intermediate shrouds by going up the mast
and adjusting the intermediate turnbuckles going to the 3. Keep the sails dry so as to avoid mildew. Dry your
lower spreaders until both shrouds are equally tensioned. sails before placing the cover over them or rolling
With the intermediate shrouds tensioned, readjust the cap the genoa.
shrouds as necessary. Again sight the mast to be sure it’s
straight. 4. Don’t store your sails in excessively hot conditions.

5. Don’t allow the sails to back against the rig resulting

Turn the ¾” nut on a frame ‘A’ until locking pin holes are in excessive load and distortion.
within 1/2 of a hole from lining up. Do this on both sides.
Either drive in tapered locking pin or have someone pull the 6. Don’t over-tension the halyards so as to stretch the
cap shroud so that outer tube on a frame A moves down sail cloth resulting in distortion.
over inner tube enabling the insertion of a 3/8” bolt. (This
ensures frame “A” is in tension). 7. Don’t release halyards when the sheets are tight.
Ease the sheets before lowering the main or rolling in
the genoa.
Tighten frame “B” so that it is just in tension and lock as well.
8. When folding/flaking the main sail, try to avoid fold-
You should now be able to sight the mast by looking up the ing along the same lines each time. Also don’t tie
track at the gooseneck to see that the mast is straight. If you down the sail excessively.
notice a bend to either side, make small adjustments to the
cap shrouds on either side to get the mast in column. 9. Service sails regularly to repair small wear and
tear items.
Over time, the shrouds will loosen through use. However,
the shrouds will loosen equally so that at most, applying a
few turns on the turn-buckles will re-tension the rig correctly. raising and lowering the main sail easy. The Maxx laminate
main sail is slightly larger than the Dacon sail and has 5 full
Sails battens to help maintain shape and is also equipped with
Luff-Shuttle slides. The laminate main sail differs from the
The T2 sails are manufactured by Bierig Sails which is the
standard Dacron sail in that it extends 3’ behind the back-
same sail loft that has been working with Performance
stay.
Cruising for over 25 years. Refer to the back of this manual
for contact information for Dave Bierig at Bierig Sails. The
To rig the main sail, start by unfolding the main sail and
T2 can be outfitted with two types of sails for the main and
locating the head of the sail. Un-cleat the main halyard and
genoa; standard Dacron or Contender Maxx laminate. The
attach the shackle to the grommet at the head of the sail.
primary differences between the Dacron and Maxx
Be sure to always firmly tighten all shackle pins using vice-
laminate sails are performance and durability. The laminate
grips. Loosen and lower the sail gate bolt to insert the slides
sails offer an improved shape over Dacron, thus improved
up the mast. Also insert the single slide on the clew of the
performance. In addition, the laminate sails offer high
main sail to the boom and attach the outhaul shackle. The
tear-resistance, easy handling, and excellent lamination as
slide may be tight and require some tapping before it slides
compared to earlier laminate sails. If treated well, the
easily down the boom. Continue lifting the main up and
laminate sails will last many years, but not as long as the
feedinslides until you reach the first batten pocket in the sail.
Dacron sails. The Dacron sails offer the best compromise
that point, insert the batten (as labled) until it slides into the
between durability and performance.
receptacle at the luff. Snap the three buttons on the leach
closed. Continue in this manner until you reach the second
Main Sail reefing grommet.
The Dacron main sail is a 239 square foot, 6.5 ounce fully-
battened sail with two slab reef points. There are three full Insert the reefing lines through the reefing grommet on the
battens and each are mated with Luff-Shuttle slides to make leach of the sail. Before doing so, check for stop-knots on
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 11

both ends of the reefing lines so as not to accidentally pull line to prevent the genoa from unrolling. If the furling line
a line through the boom. Also check the outhaul line for a has excessive load while attempting to furl the genoa, it’s
stop-knot. At the time of publication, the green line is the possible there is to much halyard tension. Ease the halyard
second reefing line and the red line is the first reefing line. tension slightly to make furling the sail easier.
Tie each of the reefing lines off directly to the boom using a
self-tightening bowline knot. Asymmetric Spinnaker
The T2 spinnaker is roughly 400 square feet and made of 1.5
Continue raising the main until all slides have been inserted
ounce sail cloth. The spinnaker sail is only rigged immedi-
and then raise and tighten the sail gate to prevent the slides
ately prior to using the sail. To rig the spinnaker, first run the
coming back out of the mast. When trailing. take care to
spinnaker sheets. Connect the snatch blocks to the padeye
tighten the sail gate bolt in the lower position as the bolt can
on each side of the stern outrigger deck. Run the lines for-
come out as a result of vibrations during trailing.
ward to the foredeck.
Adjust the outhaul depending on sailing conditions.
With the spinnaker in it’s sleeve, connect the head of the
Typically, the outhaul is moderately tight in lighter air and
sail to the spinnaker halyard and the tack of the sail to the
progressively tighter as the wind increases which flattens the
retracted bow sprit. After partially raising the sail and sleeve,
main sail further.
connect the sheets. The sheets should run forward of and
around the head stay but behind the tack of the spinnaker
Genoa (in other words on the inside). Also be sure to run the sheets
The T2 genoa is 242 square feet of 5.3 ounce sail cloth on the outside of the
(Contender Laminate) and roughly equivalent to 150%. genoa sheets. Keep
The leading edge of the standard genoa is UV protected control of the
by Insignia sail cloth. sleeve control
lines so that the
To rig the genoa, start by running the ½” sheets (port and sleeve does not
starboard) from the cockpit back to the block located on let the sail out
the stainless steel pushpit, then forward and through the unexpectedly.
block on the genoa track on the side of the deck and up Extend the
to the foredeck. bow sprit out
completely and
The Furlex must be loaded with the correct direction cleat off the
and number of wraps of line to work correctly. Before sprit control
connecting the halyard or sail, remove any wraps on the line. Tension
drum and then turn the Furlex counter-clockwise to place the spinnaker
22 wraps of furling line onto the drum. Next, run the furling halyard so that
line through the guide on the stainless steel pulpit and cleat the head of the
off back at the cockpit. sail is 6” to 1’
off the halyard
Next connect the genoa halyard shackle to the halyard outlet
swivel on the forestay extrusion and tighten with vice grips. at the top of
Currently, the genoa halyard is the green line. Now connect the mast. When
the head of the sail to the shackle on the halyard swivel. positioned
Begin inserting the sail up the port side of the forestay downwind, use the The blue lazy sheet to the spinnaker shown
above goes forward of the forestay and behind
extrusion while you haul on the genoa halyard. Try to align sleeve control lines the tack on the bowsprit to connect to the clew.
the luff of the sail with the extrusion to make feeding the sail to pull the sleeve
into the slot easier. Once the clew of the genoa becomes up as the sail fills
accessible, attach the port and starboard genoa sheets using with wind. If the sail has any twists or if the sleeve is not re-
a bowline knot. Continue raising the genoa until you can tracting smoothly, bring the sleeve back down and up again
connect the base of the sail to the shackle at the bottom of repeatedly to enable the sleeve to fully retract.
the extrusion. Use the locking winch handle on the mast
winch to tension the halyard then cleat off the halyard. Gybing the Spinnaker
Furl the sail in by pulling on the furling line in the cockpit. The spinnaker is gybed in much the same way as the genoa
Obtain a tight roll by leaving some tension on the sheet as is gybed. As you begin to turn the boat so that the wind is
the sail is rolled around the extrusion. Cleat off the furling off the opposite side of the stern, ease out the spinnaker
 12 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

sheet until the clew of the sail is just forward of the forestay. Sailing with the Screacher
Begin to sheet in on the opposite side to bring the sail The screacher offers considerable more sail area than the
through the slot between the tack of the spinnaker and the genoa and is usable off the wind and as close as about 45°
forestay. Bear away to a dead run and pull the mainsail to off the apparent wind. We do not recommend using the sail
the centerline. To complete the gybe, ease out the mainsail upwind in any breeze over 14 knots apparent. Doing so
on the new gybe, and head up onto your new course. Pull will place excess load on the bowsprit. Off the wind, the
in the new spinnaker sheet (the lazy sheet on the previous screacher can be used in up to 17 knots of apparent wind
tack) until the sail is set correctly for the new course. but take care not to head up wind in heavier air as this will
place undo force on the bow sprit. The screacher is too large
to tack with and thus is gybed in the same manner as the
Lowering the Spinnaker spinnaker.
Bear away onto a dead run, but this time keep the mainsail
out. The sail will begin to collapse once the mainsail When letting the sail out, be sure to keep tension on the
blankets it. Have one person ease the sheet while another furling line so that it wraps around the drum correctly and
pulls the control line on the spinnaker sleeve to begin lower- without binding. To make furling the sail easier, be sure
ing the sleeve around the sail. Ideally, whoever is pulling the not to leave too much tension on the sheets. In particularly
sail down should be positioned on the deck of the leeward heavy winds, the screacher should be taken down and
outrigger. This position will ensure that the spinnaker stowed to prevent possible damage.
remains blanketed by the mainsail. Once the sleeve has
been lowered completely, bring the bow sprit in and discon-
nect the tack. The sleeve and sail can now be lowered onto Centerboard
the outrigger deck for stowing.
The Telstar’s centerboard is constructed of Lloyd’s certi-
e
movi fied (B51088) Okoume plywood. The two halves are epoxy
Screacher bonded and shaped before coating with a two-part expoxy
The screacher sail offers great sailing performance off the barrier coat. The board weighs approximately 40 lbs and is
wind in much the same way as the spinnaker while at the finished with a copper bottom paint and should be painted
same time offering the convenience of roller furling. The at regular intervals along with the hulls and rudder.
screacher is roughly 387 square feet of 4 ounce sail cloth,
compared to the spinnaker’s 700 square feet. The leading To lower the centerboard, first place the centerboard socket
edge of the sail is covered with Tedlar® film which protects on the 1¼” nut on the pivot bolt. Loosen the nut and insert
the sail cloth from UV light. The sail is best rigged while at the winch handle to turn the bolt counter-clockwise 1 ½
the dock as it requires attaching and loading the furling turns or until the handle cannot turn further. Lock the board
drum which is not easily done while underway. down by tightening the nut with the still attached socket
handle. The pressure from the nut is enough to keep the
Start by attaching the halyard swivel to the spinnaker halyard board down while underway but not too much that the
using the supplied shackles. Next, attach the furling drum board can’t come up automatically if the boat is run aground
to the retracted bow sprit bail making sure to tighten the or if the board hits something. The board extends 4’ 6” below
shackle. Run the furling line through the guide on the bow the hull.
sprit and back through the guides to the cockpit. Place
10-12 clockwise wraps of furling line onto the drum before To raise the board, first loosen the nut using the socket
attaching the sail. wrench and then insert the winch handle to turn the pivot
bolt clockwise until you hear the board hit the top of the
With the furling line wrapped, attach the tack of the rolled centerboard case. Tighten the nut to lock the board in the
sail to the furler and the head of the sail to the halyard swivel. up position. The board should be left in the up position
Run the sheets in the same manner as for a spinnaker and when not using the boat so as to avoid a buildup of growth
attach to the sail. Extend the bow sprit completely and cleat and barnacles.
off sprit control line. Use the halyard to raise the sail com-
pletely. However, do not place the tail end of the halyard The board is typically left down for all points of sail, although
onto the winch. Tension the halyard only as much as you some experimentation may prove worthwhile when sail-
can by hand using the jammer on the mast. The line will ing downwind. In lighter air going downwind, the board
pass through and lock in the jammer with the handle in the works to keep the boat tracking well. In heavier air going
locked position. It is not advisable to place excessive upward downwind, the leeward outrigger can act to keep the boat
force on the bowsprit. tracking well and the board becomes more of a drag on
performance. In most cases, the board is simply left down
on all points of sail.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 13

Rudder Down Line

Jammers
The rudder is constructed of closed-cell foam encased in
2
fiberglass with a 1½” solid stainless steel stock. The rudder
Up Line
pivots on a bolt through the rudder bearing in the aft locker. 1
The rudder is raised and lowered using a set of control lines
tied off to padeyes on the front and rear of the top of the
3
rudder. The control lines run through a jam cleat located on
the port side coaming at the stern. The jam cleat with two
lines running through it is the “down” line while the other
is used to bring the rudder “up.” You can remember the up
from the down line by recalling a tactic in BlackJack: Double-
Up Control Line
Down.
Down Control Line

The rudder is engineered to work in the up or down position Bungee Cord

and can work in unison with the engine or independently. Down Rudder Line
The rudder draws 3’ 5” when fully down. In the full upright Up Rudder Line
position, the rudder draws about 8”.
Guide Blocks
Take care when backing the boat in a shallow area. It’s al-
ways a good idea to partially raise the rudder as you will still
have good control and lessen the chance of hitting ground.

Note that it is normal that when the rudder is in the “up”

position, it will not align perfectly with the tiller. The connec-
tion between the quadrant and steering rod must allow for
some variance when the rudder is “up” - which translates into
a slight off-set. The rudder and tiller align perfectly when the
rudder is in the full “down” position.

The down-line jammer is intentionally hindered

with a second line so that if the boat is run
aground or if the rudder hits something, it can
overcome the jammer and rise up. However, the jam-
mer should still only be enacted part-way to place a small
amount of friction on the line. Closing the jammer down
hard may place too much tension on the line if and when
the boat runs aground. The result could involve either a
broken control line or a bent rudder stock. As you approach
a shallow area (less than 4’), keep the rudder down but
check to see that the jammer is loose.
 14 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

Reefing Guidelines
If while sailing you are even considering reducing the sail
area because you think you may be over powered: be pru-
dent and enact appropriate reefing. In heavier winds, the
boat will still move well and with a more comfortable crew.
In fact, the boat’s performance will suffer as a result of exces-
sive sail area in heavier wind.

The first and second reefs can be enacted on the genoa or in

combination with the main sail. When sailing in more than
20 knots of apparent wind (or if the boat feels over-pow-
ered), enact the first reef by easing the leeward sheet and
moving the genoa sheeting block forward by 1’ or more on
the track. Next pull in on the furling line to place 4 wraps of
the genoa around the forestay extrusion. Re-cleat the furling
line and re-tension the sheet. A properly reefed main sail using the reefing hook and line.

In winds above 24 knots, enact a second reef by either plac-

ing 4 additional wraps on the genoa (as described above)
and be sure to also move the sheeting block forward again
on the track. Alternatively or in conjunction with the second
reef on the genoa, enact a reef on the main sail.

To reef the main sail, either bring the boat up into the wind
(under power if necessary) or heave-to and ease the main
sheet completely. Tighten the boom lift line (topping lift)
and lower the sail by un-cleating and loosening the main
sail halyard and working the sail down until the first reef-
ing grommet (cringle) can be placed onto the reefing hook
on either side of the boom. It may also help to loosen the
outhaul line. Once the reef grommet is in place, tension
the halyard slightly to keep the hook in place. Next, tension
and lock the corresponding reefing line (either the first or
second) using the jammers built into the boom. This forms
a new clew at the back of the sail. Fully tension the main
halyard to regain sail shape. Depending on the conditions, it
may be necessary to tie off the intermediate reefing eyelets
to the boom to eliminate flogging.

How to Heave-To
In heaving-to, the forward motion of the boat is slowed, the Wind Speed - Suggested Reef Points
bow of the boat is turned through the wind but the jib is
not released on the windward side (the jib is backed). The Wind Speed (Apparent) Main Sail Fore Sail
mainsail is then eased out and the boat is now turned into 0 - 14 knots Full Screacher
the wind. Two opposing forces now exist. The jib pushes
0 - 20 knots Full Full
the boat away from the wind but the rudder pushes the
21 - 22 knots Full First Reef (4 wraps)
boat into the wind. Thus, the boat comes to a near standstill,
drifting slowly to leeward. 23 - 25 knots Full Second Reef (8 wraps)
23 - 25 knots First Reef First Reef (4 wraps)
26 - 28 knots Second Reef Second Reef (8 wraps)

The dotted lines on the illustration shows the first and second reef points
on the genoa and main sails.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 15

4 Engines

The Telstar 28 can be equipped from the factory with either Tiller Link Steering System
the Honda BF20D6 or BF50 four-stroke outboard engines. The Telstar offers an innovative tiller link steering system
that can steer the outboard in conjunction with the rudder
The BF20 is equipped with the long- while under power and, with the link removed, steer just the
shaft, electric start, remote controls, rudder while under sail. This system makes the Telstar quite
F-N-R gears, power tilt, and 12 amp maneuverable under sail and power. The system consists
charging. The engine weighs 126 lbs of the tiller, a double-shafted steering rod, a link arm to the
and the Telstar will power at up to 7.5 steering quadrant, and outboard link arm.
knots with the Honda BF20. Fuel con-
sumption averages 3/4 gallon per hour With the link pin in place, both shafts turn with the tiller so
but can vary significantly depending on that the engine and outboard steer in unison. With the link
how the engine is run. pin removed, the tiller is only turning the rudder shaft. The
pin which joins the two shafts together should be attached
with a lanyard to secure it. If you lose the pin, any bolt or
item of the correct thickness will work as a substitute.

The link arms to both the quadrant and outboard can be

adjusted to align the tiller, rudder, and engine. If the system
The BF50 is also equipped with the needs alignment, un-bolt the connection to the quadrant
long shaft, electric start, remote and shorten/lengthen the arm using the threaded ends.
controls, F-N-R gears, power tilt, and Align the tiller and rudder accordingly and reconnect the link
12 amp charging. The engine weighs arm. Next align the outboard in the same manner.
212 lbs and the Telstar will power at up
to 17 knots with the Honda BF50. Fuel Follow these steps before turning the engine off and raising
consumption averages 3/4 gallon per the motor bracket while under sail:
hour but can vary significantly depend-
1. Turn engine off with the key
ing on if the engine is run at full throttle
or at a lower RPM. Cruising RPM (3/4 2. Pull the link pin from the tiller shaft
throttle) with the Honda BF50 achieves 3. Raise the engine with the button on the throttle
about 14 knots. 4. Raise the motor bracket for additional clearance

Before motoring, check the following:
Consult the Honda Owner’s Manual 1. Un-cleat and lower the motor bracket
for thorough operating, maintenance, and specifications 2. Lower the outboard
information.
3. Check that the fuel tank vent is open

We also recommend an engine lock for added security. 4. Move the gearshift to neutral
especially when trailing or cruising in areas you are unfamil- 5. Prime the fuel line by squeezing the gas line bulb
iar with. We recommend until firm
the Fulton Outboard Motor 6. Check that the kill switch clip is in place
Lok™ Model OML. Fulton 7. Adjust the slow-running lever as you turn the key
Performance also sell the to start the engine
TP20 Trailer Lock for the 2” 8. Check that the tail ends of any lines are not in the
Telstar trailer coupler. water where they can get caught up in the prop
 16 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

Tiller Alignment with Outboard

The engine, rudder, and tiller are all aligned at the factory
and should not require immediate adjustment. However,
Excessive cranking can damage the engine. if you find the tiller and engine are not quite in alignment,
Engage the electric starter for no more than 5 there is room for adjustment.
seconds at a time.
The steering rod to the outboard is threaded and provides
for some fine-tuning. A small amount of movement is
normal and a result of the tolerance between the 3/8” taper
Operating Under Power pin under the tiller stock. To fine tune the alignment,
When maneuvering the Telstar under power at high speeds, disconnect the steering rod from the engine and rotate the
it’s advisable to raise the centerboard. A lowered center- end fitting in or out. However, do not tighten the lock nut
board causes more drag and enables water turbulence to hard against the engine-end of the rod because as the
build up in the open centerboard case. This is especially true engine tips up, the connection requires some ability to
for Telstar equipped with the optional Honda BF50 engine. rotate on the thread.

When operating in reverse, take care not to build up

too much speed. The Telstar rudder has a rather
large blade which can forcefully torque to either
side if the boat is moving too fast in reverse. This
especially applies to boats equipped with the Honda BF50.
Damage to the tiller, rudder, or steering assembly can result.

When operating under power with the optional ST1000 Plus

Autopilot, raise the centerboard so that the autopilot can
stay on course more easily.

When maneuvering at slow speeds, keep the centerboard When raising the engine, especially the Honda 50, take care
down for improved tracking and to lessen the effects of a not to kink the throttle and gear cables. With the engine
side breeze. raised, these cables can get pinched between the engine
and the steering rod. Position the engine with a slight tilt
Operating Under Power in Retracted Position outboard to prevent the cables from getting caught or
pinched.
The Telstar 28 is completely stable with the outriggers
retracted and can be motored as such. However, the boat
will perform much better under power with the outriggers
extended.

Fuel
Both Honda engines come with a 3 gallon fuel tank and
supply line. The stern locker is large enough to fit a 6 gallon
tank as well as an additional 3 gallon tank. For the 6 gallon
tank. we recommend a Tempo Fuel Tank - ULTRA 6 (Size: 13-
1/2”Wx21-1/2”Lx10-1/2”H).

For longer trips, it is acceptable to store additional fuel tanks

in the outriggers. Take care to make sure the tank lids and
vents are closed tightly.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 17

5
Main Hull Construction
Construction

The main hull of Telstar is produced using a large, one-piece The only time there is a good reason to have a backing plate
mold with no secondary seams or joints. Similarly, the deck is is for items that are being pulled at right angles to deck or
produced from a single mold with no removable or add-on hull, such as rudder gudgeons. A backing plate would stop
parts. The centerboard and rudder cases are each integral to the bolts pulling through the hull. Unfortunately consider-
the mold and have an elaborate air blowing release system. ation should be given as to whether it would be better to
In this way, the centerboard case and rudder case are all have, for instance, four bolt size holes in the event of a sud-
molded in at the same time as the hull is molded. This gives den unexpected load like running aground or a large hole if
a dimensionally accurate, strong, and leak-free structure. backing plates are used. The small holes can be stopped up
easily while a large hole might sink the boat.
The hulls have a high quality Cooks marine gel coat
(953WA411) with a 20mm veil and vinylester barrier coat. The Resin Infusion
main lay-up is all done at once, with no chance of weak-
The speed performance of any multihull is, in large part,
ness as a result of inter-laminate bonds. The main lay-up is
a function of the boat’s weight. The lighter the boat, the
comprised of layers of 24 oz stitched bi-directional woven,
faster it will sail. Towards this goal, the Telstar makes use of a
alternating with high stiffness 1 ½ ounce mat. The overlap
relatively new construction technique to greatly reduce the
in layers increases the strength in strategic places such as
weight of the outrigger decks, hulls, and interior liners.
the keel. The keel is strong enough to support the boat on
a point load, and ends up with fiberglass totaling 5/8” thick
Resin infusion is a fiberglass layup technique whereby lay-
with additional reinforcing along the keel strip.
ers of dry fiberglass are laid up onto a gel-coated mold. In
between the layers of dry fiberglass is a honeycomb-like
Main Deck Construction material, Lantor Soric®, that enables the catalyzed resin to
The deck is a one-piece mold with all the horizontal surfaces flow efficiently through the entire structure.
balsa cored. The balsa core provides a solid, stable founda-
tion underneath all walking surfaces. In the case of all deck With gelcoat/fiberglass/Soric/Fiberglass layup in place, resin
fittings, the Balsa is replaced with extra glass and plywood to inlet ports and spiral wrap tubes are layed out over the piece
avoid the possibility of water infiltrating into the balsa core. to enable resin to flow quickly starting from the center of the
part. On the perimeter are vacuum hoses which draw the
The use or non-use of backing plates is often misunderstood resin through the part. With everything in place, a vacuum
by customers and even some boat builders. An item bolted bag is fitted to the mold and drawn down tight with a
on that takes sheer such as a chain plate must not have a pump. Provided there are no leaks, catalyzed resin is then
backing plate. The most important design consideration is “shot” through the part using the inlets.
to have the materials of such a thickness that they have the
same percentage elongation under the same load so that The result of this method is a near perfect fiber-to-resin ratio
the bolts are uniformly loaded. in a light-weight part that is exceptionally strong.

A backing plate would change the situation and put the Stress and Movement in Trimarans
entire load on the first bolt. Most items on the deck of a
The primary challenge in designing a trimaran is rooted in
sailboat are subjected to torsion such as the stanchions. The
successfully transferring the compression and tension loads
most important design consideration is to transmit the load
generated from the outriggers. Take, for example, a trimaran
over a large area. This is most easily accomplished by mold-
of any design sailing on a port tack. The windward port
ing in plywood; again simply making the fiberglass thick
outrigger is generating tension load on the main hull as it
also helps transmit the load. Backing plates are academic
is suspended clear of the water. Conversely, the leeward
because a failure would almost certainly be a large chunk of
starboard outrigger is generating compressive loads as the
deck being ripped out, much larger than the actual backing
buoyant hull is forced upward by the water. Of course,
plate.
these loads are not static and can change greatly. Moreover,
 18 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

torsion loads are applied to the area on the main hull con- As part of the testing involved in developing the Telstar
necting the outriggers as a result of waves and increased design, the entire boat was supported by just the outriggers
heeling. These loads act to twist the main hull. The designer with the main hull suspended. The goal was to confirm that
must account for such forces by reinforcing the main hull the hinge assemblies would take the weight of the entire
and outriggers to transfer the loads over a broad area. boat - even with four persons aboard attempting to flex the
hinges. Of course, the design proved to be more than strong
In the case of Telstar, the necessary reinforcing is further chal- enough. In real-world conditions, the main hull would likely
lenged by the need to reduce the boat’s beam by folding. never be completely clear of the water.
The Telstar is unique to all trimarans in that the design not
only solves the challenges of transferring enormous com-
pressive, tension, and torsion loads, but it is accomplished
in part by a system that solves the most common problems
associated with folding a trimaran.

The main hull manages the compression and tension associ-

ated with the outriggers by way of a reinforced ½” forward
bulkhead and an additional bulkhead on the stern.

The outriggers and intermediate outrigger “boxes” also

manage the loads using the stainless steel hinges which
are bolted onto the top and bottom of the outrigger and
intermediate box. The hinges are further reinforced with a
diagonal strut between the top and bottom hinge straps.
In this way, the height between the top and bottom hinge
straps ensures that the entire structure stays fixed through
compression and tension.

Wind
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 19

6 12 Volt System

The Telstar 12 volt system begins with two 35-amp seale The switches/circuit breaker on the 12-volt panel are all
AGM marine batteries located in the chart table on the star- rated at 15 amps.
board side. There is room for additional batteries if desired.

The battery is charged by the 12-amp alternator on the Mast Head Lights
Honda BF20 and Honda BF50 engines. The alternator is put- The mast comes equipped from US Spars
ting out maximum charge at 3/4 throttle and above. with an Aqua Signal Series 40 / 3506652
mast head light. The bulb is a SW25 10 W.
Regarding battery chargers, the Charge Pro 10-Amp
from Marinco (part #2610A) is an ideal product for the Telstar. Spare / Autopilot
The unit can be mounted inside the battery storage
The Telstar can be equipped with the
compartment and matched with a Blue Sea Systems 8235
optional RayMarine ST1000 Tiller Autohelm. Consult the Ray-
DC Digital Voltmeter and 8051 DC Voltmeter Panel (with bat-
marine owners manual for complete operating instructions.
tery bank selector switch) for easily monitoring the battery
state.
Cabin Lights
Battery Switch The Telstar comes equipped with four (4) standard Sea Dog
A battery switch is installed next to the battery and can easily incandescent interior lights. The lights are located on the
be wired for a second battery. Never switch the battery ‘Off’ starboard side of the main bulkhead in head, above the
or to ‘Position 2’ with the engine running as damage to the galley and navigation areas, and above the table. Each lights
engine alternator could occur. If a second battery is installed, draws approximately 1 amp . The 12 volt outlet works off
always turn the selector knob through the ‘Both’ position to the cabin lights breaker.
switch between batteries when the engine is running.
VHF Radio - Optional
A 30-amp fuse is installed between the battery switch and
The VHF radio is a RayMarine Class D DSC Ray54 model
the switch panel. Carrying a spare fuse is recommended.
E43023. This unit can integrate with a GPS chart plotter for
the purpose of broadcasting the boat’s coordinates in the
Wiring Code event of an emergency. Consult the RayMarine owners
The standard code for 12-volt is red positive and manual for complete operating instructions.
black negative. Unfortunately the boat cable sup-
plied sometimes comes red and black and some-
times white and black. We have chosen: Instruments
Instruments include the RayMarine ST60 Series which in-
BLACK = NEGATIVE cludes the wind, depth, speed, and trip data.
RED OR WHITE = POSITIVE

The ST60 Wind instrument mast wire connects at the base

Note that the color coding is different to shore of the mast using the 6 prong plug. The mast wire extends
power where black is live and white neutral. through a conduit in the mast to the wind transducer at the
The European system is different and electronic top of the mast. When stowing the transducer, be sure to
equipment that comes from Europe has the code: tape it to the mast post inside the boat so as not to bend the
plastic blades which affects the instrument readings.
BROWN = POSITIVE
BLUE = NEGATIVE
The ST60 TriData consists of the speed transducer (located
just forward of the centerboard case), depth sounder (lo-
cated in the compartment under the gangway steps), and
 20 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

trip information. The speed transducer is off-set slightly to

enable beaching and trailing the Telstar. A dummy-plug
is provided. The depth transducer does not require any
maintenance but should be kept clean and unpainted on
the bottom of the hull.

Consult the owners manuals for complete operating and

calibration instructions on the ST60 series instruments. You
will most certainly want to calibrate the wind instrument for
direction.

The ST60 TriData can also be calibrated for speed and depth.
In the case of speed, you will likely find a calibration factor of
1.37 to be the most accurate.

We also advise setting an alarm for 3’ of water depth. The

automatic alarm will remind you to check the position of the
rudder down line jammer. When entering shallow water,
make sure the jammer is not locked down tight. Otherwise,
the rudder may not be able to come up if and when it drags
along the bottom. Consult the RayMarine owners manual
for step-by-step instructions on calibration and for setting
depth alarms.

Depending on whether the boat is kept in the water and the

amount of marine growth, the paddle wheel transducer may
require periodic cleaning to operate correctly. Ideally, the
speed plug can be pulled with the boat out of the water. If
not, quickly insert the dummy plug while cleaning out the
paddle wheel.

Deck Plugs
The two electrical sockets on the deck (located at the base of
the mast) provide power to the mast head light and connect
the wind transducer to the ST60 Plus Wind instrument.

The 7-pole plug is used for the wind wire and uses the
following wiring layout. Each terminal has a small indicator
number next to it.

1: RED
2: YELLOW
3: BLUE
4: GREEN
6: GROUND WIRE

The wires use solder connection. The make and model are:
Hella Plug/Socket,12V 7 Pole Plug and Socket # 62874

The mast head light uses a 4 pin socket. Only two of the
terminals are used (positive/negative). The make and model
are: Hella Plug/Socket, 12V Pole Plug and Socket #62873
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 21

7 Propane System

Propane is recognized by most yachtsmen, as well as the

Coast Guard, as the best fuel for use on boats. It is the
450mm/17.75” W, and 370mm/14.5” D. The unit has twin
burners and a broiler, pan gimbals, and features an auto-
easiest to obtain, economical, and has more heating per matic flame-failure gas shut off.
pound than natural gas. In terms of safety, propane will only
explode if there is a ratio of between 12,000 and 65,000 parts To light the unit, turn and press any of the knobs on the front
per million of propane and air. There are two major built-in of the unit while using an extended lighter to ignite the gas.
safety systems to minimize any risks associated with the pro- Continue holding the control knob in for a few seconds to
pane system; the pressure gauge and flame-failure cut off. enable the flame-failure detector to warm up, then release
the knob.
Although propane is odorless, an identifying odor (mercap-
tan) is added so the gas can be readily detected. Should a Checking for Leaks
propane leak ever occur, the odor is easily detectable at very
As part of a standard commissioning process and/or should
low levels and over-whelming at just 600 parts per million.
you ever suspect a propane leak, perform the following test:
The propane bottle contains 5 pounds of propane and takes
a long time to escape from a bottle in the event of a broken
With the stove “off”, open the propane tank valve to obtain
pipe. This is unlike gasoline which, with a small spill, instantly
a reading on the pressure gauge. Turn the tank valve “off”
evaporates to an explosive mixture.
and observe the pressure gauge. The gauge should show a
consistent reading for a minimum of 5 minutes. If any loss
Always store the propane bottles in the cockpit locker. The
in pressure is detected, check the entire system with a leak
locker contains vent ports down through the hull. The
detection fluid or detergent solution to locate the leak. Test-
pressure gauge is an essential safety feature and is the first
ing solutions should be non-corrosive and non-toxic such
thing connected to the valve on the bottle. The gauge does
as dish-washing liquid and water solution. Repair and check
not indicate the level of the gas in the tank; weighing the
the system thoroughly before operating the stove again.
tank determines the amount of propane in the bottle. The
pressure gauge provides easy and frequent leak testing of
the LPG system. After using the system and turning off both
the stove and turning off the gas at the bottle, the system
should hold the same pressure for at least 10 minutes.
The pressure reading will vary depending on the ambient NEVER USE AN OPEN FLAME TO CHECK
temperature. Warmer temperatures will cause the pressure FOR PROPANE LEAKS. NEVER USE SOLU-
reading to increase while colder temperatures will lessen the TIONS CONTAINING AMMONIA TO TEST
FOR LEAKS. SOAPS AND DETERGENTS
system pressure. MAY CONTAIN AMMONIA.

There is a single 5 lb. vertical bottle with a 5 year rust protec-

tion and overfill protection. Note: New, unfilled tanks are
delivered with compressed air and must be purged the first
time they are used. A rubber tube connects to the fitting ALWAYS TURN OFF THE PROPANE AT THE
that has a pressure regulator. There is a special left-hand BOTTLE WHEN LEAVING THE BOAT. REGU-
thread that is first screwed into the bottle to connect the LARLY INSPECT THE PROPANE BOTTLE
tube and regulator. The bottle is held in place with a mount- AND REGULARLY PERFORM PRESSURE
TESTS ON THE SYSTEM.
ing plate adhered to the hull. The flexible propane line
then connects to the copper propane line which is routed
through the coaming and into the area beneath the stove.
The copper in use is 3/8”, K type. The copper fittings are
connected to the appliance with 3/8” flare fittings. The
propane stove is a Tasman 2000 hob unit manufactured
by Leisure Products Ltd. The unit measures 167mm/6.5” H,
 22 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

8 Fresh Water, Plumbing, and Head

Fresh Water System

The Telstar comes equipped with a built-in 16 gallon water The toilet exhausts either into the 10 gallon holding tank or
tank located on the port side of the centerboard case. The overboard. To select either, use the valve located to the left
interior of the tank is covered with CeRam-Kote 54 acrylic of the toilet. In most installations, turning the valve handle
paint. down exhausts overboard. With the valve handle up, the toi-
let is exhausting into the holding tank. The direction of flow
The tank can be filled using the external water fill located on corresponds to the direction of the long-end of the handle.
the port step in the cockpit. A built-in air vent ensures that
the tank will fill easily. Alternatively, open the inspection port Keep in mind that an average flush of the toilet exhausts
on top of the tank to gauge the level of water when filling. about one gallon of water. The holding tank can therefore fill
Fill the tank to within 1” of the top and take care not to over- rather quickly; so plan accordingly or how best to use (or not
fill the tank. use) the holding tank. Overfilling the holding tank can result
in a pressurized tank that may leak through the vent line or
The fresh water supply hose is 1/2” and comes off the bot- tank hose connections. Avoid overfilling the holding tank at
tom of the tank to a “T” connection located in the compart- all costs.
ment below the gangway steps which splits the water
supply to run the the galley and the head. The faucet is a If the holding tank is over-filled, it is possible that the air vent
manual Whale Flipper Pump (GP0418) and the head faucet is line might also get clogged. If the vent line is blocked, then
a Whale V-Pump (GP0650). pumping out the tank may become difficult. To unclog the
vent line, temporarily remove the vent line from the deck fit-
Head ting (accessible from the anchor locker) and run a plumbing
snake down the vent hose to clear the line.
The standard marine toilet for the Telstar is a Head-Mate RH
90 (37001) with the following specifications: If needed, there are a number of tank level monitors avail-
able on the market such as the Fireboy-Xintex LLM-1
Seat Height 12” / 305mm One-Tank Monitor. To keep the plumbing in good working
Handle Height 12” / 305mm order, be sure to flush the tank out with either fresh water or
sea-water after having the tank pumped.
Width 16-3/4” / 425mm
Depth 17” / 430mm The 2” outlet thru-hull only has two positions: if the handle is
Weight 20 lbs / 9.1 kg vertical, the valve is open and if the handle is horizontal, the
Weight/Household Bowl 23 lbs / 10.4 kg valve is closed.
Intake I.D. 3/4” / 19mm The holding tank 2” pump-out is located on the deck by the
Discharge I.D. 1-1/2” / 38mm anchor locker. The holding tank is installed with a vent line
Pump I.D. 2” / 51mm which exhausts to a hull fitting located near the starboard
bow.
Maintenance Kit #1520

The head plumbing is run so that the toilet can be flushed

with either sea-water or water from the sink (fresh water Fresh Water Flush
flush). The water-intake thru-hull valve is located on the port To keep the plumbing clean and cut down on accumulating
side below the head and has three possible positions. If the head odor caused by stagnant sea-water, the toilet plumb-
valve handle is turned outboard, it is open to the sink. If the ing is configured to be able to draw fresh water from the
valve handle is set vertically, the thru-hull is closed. If the sink. If the head has been in use and you are leaving the
valve handle is turned inboard, it is open to the sea. boat, performing a fresh-water flush will eliminate head odor
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 23

Head Plumbing Guide Shower Options

as the plumbing will be left with clean, fresh-water and a The interior liner includes a dam intended to retain and
cleaning agent (such as Ajax, Pine Sole, or bleach). drain water for showing in the head area. The show drain
is connected to a “Y” valve by the toilet such that the toilet
To perform a fresh-water flush, first turn the toilet inlet thru- pump can be made to flush the toilet or drain the shower
hull valve handle to the outboard position (which opens bilge. However, the boat does not come with an actual
the valve to the sink). Next, turn the thru-hull valve handle shower installed. Instead, we do recommend a product
located in the cabinet under the sink towards the stern. As manufactured by Zodi Inc. The Extreme Series Water Heater
you use the faucet to fill the sink with water, it will not drain. is a stainless steel tank
Add a small amount of cleaning agent to the water and flush that can be placed
the toilet through until all the water is gone. over the stove for the
purpose of heating
When winterizing your Telstar, empty the water tank and water in the tank. After
holding tank as much as possible and pump through any heating, the tank can be
remaining water in the plumbing. pressurized using the
integrated pump and
shower head to provide
a simple, self-contained
shower system. For more
information, go to www.
zodi.com. You may also
consider a Sun Shower in
2.5, 4, or 5 gallon configu-
rations. See http://www.
stearnsrec.com

Exhaust Overboard
Position

Note: the long end of the handle

reflects the direction of flow. Sink Thru Hull
(Overboard/Drain to Head)

Exhaust to Holding Tank

Position

Fresh Water from Sink

(Fresh Water Flush)
Draw from Sink Position
(Fresh Water Flush)

Water-In Thru Hull Overboard Thru Hull

Draw from Sea (Either Open or Closed)
Water Position
 24 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

9 Mooring and Anchoring

Heaving Lines Picking Up a Mooring Ball

Novice sailors sometimes panic as the boat is coming in to Always approach an open mooring at a slow speed and
the dock and are often unsuccessful in attempting to throw note how other boats are positioned relative to their buoys.
a line to a dock attendant. The best method of throwing a The boats will be pointing into the wind or with the current.
line is to simply coil it up, split the coil and throw half of the Always stay well clear of others’ mooring lines so as not to
split coil. Hold onto the end of the other half. The weight of cut or foul the lines. In the event that there are no other
the half being thrown uncoils the half still being held. The boats by which to gauge an approach, pass by the intended
momentum of the half being thrown will then uncoil. When mooring once to gauge the effects of current and wind so
throwing a line to a person, aim just to the person’s side. that your approach will be correct.

Mooring in a Slip As you motor up to pick up the mooring, shift into neutral
when the boat has enough forward momentum to reach
With its shallow draft and ability to convert to either a beam the mooring. Have a crew person stand on the bow or out-
of 18’, 14’, or 8’ 6”, the Telstar provides a lot of flexibility when rigger ready to pick up the pennant float with a boat hook.
mooring in a slip. Communication between the captain and crew is
essential. It is beneficial to agree on a set of hand signals
In preparation for mooring the Telstar in a slip, secure (2) rather than yelling back and forth. Do not expect the person
dock lines to the bow cleat and secure one dock line to each on the bowsprit to be able to hold the boat in position once
of the cleats on the stern. Do not pass the looped-end of the in contact with the pennant float.
lines through the cleat. Instead, pass the line through the
looped end to form a noose that will be placed around the If you expect the boat will overshoot the mooring, shift
slip pilings or passed through the slip cleats. This method into reverse or, inversely, shift into forward to gain enough
enables any slack to be taken up onboard rather than left on momentum to reach the mooring. Keep the engine running
the dock or piling and the lines can be adjusted onboard the and ready until you are sure that the pennant eye has been
boat. secured to the anchor cleat. Even after securing the pen-
nant eye, be careful not to scrape against the buoy. If you do
Dock lines are cross-tied on the stern to provide more scope under or over-shoot the buoy, calmly fall off and get clear for
and allow the boat to rise and fall with the tide. another try.
Spring lines should also be tied to the outrigger pad-eyes to You may tie off to the mooring using a single-line from the
prevent the boat from moving forward or backward in the bow cleat and by using a bridle. In the case of a bridle, tie
slip. the ends off to the port and starboard pulpit stanchion bas-
es. These bases are through-bolted and more than strong
In the case of a standard 16’ wide slip, retract the outrigger
enough to take the load of a bridle. As a backup, cleat off
opposite the finger or slip pier to make getting off and on the slack line to the forward cleat.
the boat easier.
Ideally, the Telstar should be moored with the outriggers in
Fenders can be attached to the outrigger life-lines and pad- the extended position for the most possible stability. How-
eyes. ever, if it is necessary to moor retracted, be sure to retract
both outriggers.

Carefully inspect your connection to the mooring ball and

your relative distance to surrounding boats before ever leav-
ing the boat.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 25

installed on the bows of the outriggers but this would abso-

lutely require broad backing plates on the inside to avoid a
point load on the cleats. Using a bridle is an ideal arrange-
ment when anchoring in high winds and/or waves.

Cautionary Notes on Using the Danforth: The Danforth an-

chor has the highest straight line holding power but will not
take a wind shift. The anchor can be capsized and released
and when loaded with mud can be difficult to reset if the
12' boat is being blown fast. The flukes of the Danforth can also
Inside be loaded with grass or kelp and then not hold.
Pilings
Minimum
The Bruce anchor is the strongest but can develop a ball
of mud between the blades and not hold. The flukes of
the Bruce will probably get a hold in rocks and are strong
enough to withstand breaking.

The CQR or Harbor Fast from Simpson Lawrence will plow a

circle in the sea bottom in the event of a wind change. The
CQR is a strong forged anchor but is expensive, whereas the
Harbor Fast is fabricated.
16' on Center

Storing on a Lift There are other anchors similar to the three above with
Yet another benefit of the Telstar folding system is the abil- different features: The Aluminum Fortress anchor is like the
ity to store the boat on a boat lift. In most instances, one Danforth but has a high blade area with light weight. This
outrigger will need to be retracted to fit on a lift. Of course, anchor will hold well, but because of its light weight will skid
retract the outrigger opposite the dock to make getting on across the seabed if the boat is being blown backwards. The
and off easy. Do not attempt placing the Telstar on a lift lighter 13lb Hi-Tensile Danforth has a higher holding power
with both outriggers retracted as the hull is not stabilized of 2200lb. This anchor theoretically will hold more than
and could fall over. In addition, in the retracted position the the standard anchor once it gets a grip and digs in, but of
main hull could be taking load along points other than the course, does not have the weight to hold on a rock or if
intended bulkhead lift points. it gets loaded with weed. This is a good anchor for racing
where weight is a consideration when sailing.
When storing the Telstar on a lift, it is essential to always
make sure the lift points are aligned with the main hull bulk- The standard boat comes with a 6’ length of chain and 100’
heads both fore and aft. This ensures that the load is trans- of 1/2” nylon rope. This is adequate for normal anchoring
ferred through the hull and prevents any flexing along the in sand or mud. The nylon will stretch to absorb the shock
keel strip. The supports should also be angled to align with loads of rough sea. The chain helps to keep the stock down
the shape of the main hull. The stern support should rise to make the anchor plough in. For anchoring in coral where
1/2” over 2’ to follow the main hull shape. Review the above the anchor line can rub across the coral and get cut, it is
diagram for piling placement. The hull supports should be recommended that all chain be used. Chain will not absorb
at least 1’ wide to avoid a point load on the hull. Review the shock like nylon so it is not recommended for other uses. A
diagram above for placement. compromise is to only use chain that will rub on the seabed.

There are numerous theories on anchoring. It is advisable to
Anchoring check into these theories but do not automatically assume
The Telstar is outfitted with a 11lb Danforth anchor supply- that in a bad storm two anchors are better than one. Unfor-
ing good holding power in sand and mud. The anchor line tunately in a storm there will almost certainly be a change in
is run through the fairlead on either side of the forward cleat. the wind direction at which point the two anchors have the
Anchoring with the line through the fairlead is ideal for short possibility of wrapping together and pulling out.
periods or when conditions are calm.
There are several systems for anchoring in confined spaces
Alternatively, the Telstar can be set up to use an anchor to prevent the boat moving down onto other boats when
bridle by connecting the ends of the bridle to the stern-most there is a change in the wind direction. Anchoring fore and
stanchion bases on the bow. The bases are through-bolted aft is one way. Another way is to set two anchors facing
and can take considerable load. Alternatively, cleats can be
 26 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

one another 150 ft or so apart, and then connecting them

together in the center with a swivel on the sea bed. Finally,
take a line from the swivel up to the boat. In this system the
anchors will not pull out in the case of a wind shear. Unfor-
tunately, this system will need considerable skill and time to
set and retrieve.

If anchoring in an area with extreme tides during which the

boat may sit on the bottom, be sure to raise the rudder to
the full upright and locked position on the jammer. This will
ensure that the boat will not be resting on the rudder.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 27

10 Trailing, Launching, Retrieving

Trailing Securing the Telstar for Trailing

One of the most exciting aspects of the Telstar is the ability With the Telstar correctly positioned on the trailer (review the
to place it on a trailer and take it with you to explore cruising section on retrieval), securing the boat involves tying down
grounds that no water-locked boat can get to. There are vir- everything and anything that could move during transport
tually unlimited destinations where the Telstar can be trailed and making sure the outriggers are retracted as tight as pos-
to, launched, and explored. In preparation for such trailing sible.
adventures, or just for the ride home, you will want to be
completely familiar with the in’s and out’s of trailing, launch- When retracting the outriggers in the water, the boat re-
ing, and retrieving your Telstar trimaran. duces in width close to 8’ 6”. When retracting for trailing, it is
important to retract completely so that the width is exactly
The trailer itself is a fully galvanized, twin-axle Venture VBT 8’ 6”. To retract the outriggers completely, first make sure the
5800 with 13” wheels and custom framework which is also front and rear outrigger support pads are lowered for clear-
hot-dipped galvanized. The combined weight of the trailer ance. Push the outrigger forward and out from the stern and
and Telstar is approximately 4800 lbs. This total is based on then retract the outrigger in again. Oftentimes, the canvas
a boat weight of 3600 lbs (including Honda 20 engine, mast, sliders on the track prevent the outrigger from retracting as
rigging, and all options) + 1200 lbs for the trailer. far as is possible. To retract the outrigger completely, prop
open the outrigger shelf using a 1’ section of 2X4 (or any
available prop). Now, with access to the area between the
outrigger and main hull, push the sliders toward the stern
Consult the Venture Trailer Owners Manual
for specific recommendations for care and from back to front. Remove the prop and push the outrigger
maintenance of the trailer, wheels, brakes, from the bow to retract it completely. Ideally, the outrigger
and coupler. Proper care and maintenance of should extend no further out from the main hull flange than
the trailer is highly recommended. 1½”. Repeat this procedure until both outriggers retract in as
far as possible.

Model Tire Size Load Capacity Width Weight: Weight w/ Boat Coupler Size Height w/ Boat
11’
VBT5800 St 215/75D 13” LRC 5800 102” (8’ 5”) 1200 lbs 4800 lbs 2”
(frame C lowered
 28 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

Raise the outrigger support pads, front and rear, so that each The aim is to not only prevent the rudder from dropping
is taking equal load to help stabilize the boat. To raise the down but to also take the load off the rudder control lines
pads, tighten the 1” nut to during transport. The engine should be in the ‘down’ position
raise the pad and lock in for trailing.
position by securely tight-
ening the lock nut. Loosen To strap the boat to the trailer, run ratcheting straps down
the nuts to lower the pad. from the pushpit stanchion bases along the stern on each
The nut and threaded side and down to the trailer tangs. On the bow, run the front
stainless steel rod inside straps from the base of the pulpit stanchions down to the
the tube should be well trailer tangs. Place shipping carpet between the straps and
greased. If it feels as if you the outrigger hulls to prevent chaffing the gel coat.
are placing too much pres-
sure to tighten the nut (and Check that the VHF antenna and wind transducer have been
the support pad is still clear disconnected. Secure all items inside the boat and replace
of the outrigger hull), back the ST60 Speed Transducer (if equipped) with the dummy
off and loosen the nut, plug. Be sure that the companion-way sliders are in place
spray the rod with grease, and lock the top hatch closed.
and slowly tighten the nut
again. Be sure to also strongly tighten the locking nut to Trailing Advice
prevent the supports from lowering unintentionally. Before trailing, run through the checklist outlined in Chapter
12. You will benefit from making your own notes and forcing
Securing the mast involves disconnecting the fore-stay from yourself to check the list each trip. Make sure all the trailer
the mast and sliding it up the mast so that furler sits nearly lights work, that the trailer jack is raised and locked in place,
flush in the fork on the bottom and that the trailer is
of the mast. Tie the base of the properly hitched to
fore-stay to the mast using the the tow vehicle. The
excess halyard lines around the two base of the ball hitch
mast winches (as you would using a on the tow vehicle
cleat). Be sure to have some shipping should be about 16”
carpet on hand to wrap the base of from the ground to
the fore-stay to prevent scratches from ensure the trailer
the fork. Tie the fore-stay to the mast rides level with the
at intervals of 5’. The base of the mast is vehicle. Running a
supported by the forward frames and the bolt or lock through
rotating saddle at the mast base supports the hitch coupler hole
the middle of the mast. will ensure it won’t pop open and come off the ball hitch
during a transit. However, as double insurance crisscross the
Gather the stays together and tie off to prevent safety chains so they form a cradle to catch
them from rubbing against the deck while trailing. Lightly the trailer tongue and keep it from digging
tie down the lower spreaders to the pulpit being careful not into the pavement. Make sure the trailer’s
to bend them up or down by tightening the line too much. breakaway cable is connected for added
Also be sure to tie frame ‘C’ up to the mast. safety. This will automatically activate the
trailer’s hydraulic surge brakes if the trailer
Place a small section of shipping carpet on the comes loose from the tow vehicle. Be sure
stern mast support arch and tie the to also check that the brake fluid is topped
mast down to the arch. off in the reservoir on the trailer tongue.
Securely tie the tiller in the
center position. Regarding the trailer lights and electrical
Bring the rudder up with connection: the Venture trailer uses the
the control lines as far as common flat 4-prong trailer connector. Should you need
possible and lock the up line to trouble-shoot the lights, the white wire is the ground, the
down. Use line to secure brown wire is for the running lights, the green wire is the
the rudder in the up posi- left turn light, and the yellow wire is the right turn light. In
tion by tying off to the lower the event of a electrical problem, you will also want to know
pushpit stanchions and where the trailer light fuse is located in your vehicle.
around the rudder stock.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 29

Wheels, Bearings, Brake Adjustment

Check that the tire pressure (including the spare – if The wheels of the VBT5800 have Bearing Buddies, which is
equipped) is about 60 psi and make sure all wheel lug nuts basically a grease fitting under the plastic cap in the center
are tight. If you are driving over bumpy roads or for a long of the wheels through which grease is applied and a spring
distance, it is good to make periodic inspections of the the that keeps the bearings covered in grease which stops water
rig along the way. from getting to the bearings. Regularly top off the bearing
assembly with grease.
The added length, width and weight of your boat and trailer The bearings are a tapered roller and with heavy use will
need to be compensated for by altering your driving habits start to allow movement. Simply removing the grease cap
when towing. This is especially important when making and bending the tab will allow the large 1¼” nut across the
turns. Because trailers have a tighter turning radius than that flats to be adjusted to take up the slack. The slack is taken
of the tow vehicle, you’ll need to make wider than normal up as the tapper in the roller is moved together. Once
turns to avoid running curbs or hitting parked cars and adjusted, the locking tabs must be bent back into position.
obstacles. The bearings must not be over tightened and should only
be adjusted enough to eliminate movement as the wheel
When towing, there will naturally be some difference in is rocked. Too little adjustment is better than too
acceleration, the variance depending on the power of your much.
tow vehicle. Therefore, merging and passing will need to be
calculated differently than when you’re not towing. Rather The brakes can be adjusted
than speeding up to “beat” merging traffic or to quickly with the wheels off through
pass another vehicle to avoid oncoming traffic, safe towing a hole in the lower portion
requires you to exercise more patience. of the brake drum. A screw
driver pushing on the serrated
Compensation must also be made for the added length. edge of a nut, winds the nut in to
Because the combined vehicle and trailer is more than twice release the brakes or out to tighten.
as long than when not towing, it will take twice as long to Pushing on the bottom will tighten the
pass another vehicle — regardless of speed. When passing brakes ( move the brake pads closer to the drum ).
another vehicle be careful not to cut them off by pulling
back into your lane too soon. Give plenty of forethought Regarding security for the trailer and outboard engine, we
about pulling into narrow or crowded areas because getting recommend the Fulton Outboard Motor Lok™ Model OML.
out can be drastically more difficult than getting in. Plan so Fulton Performance also sell the TP20 Trailer Lock for the 2”
you can exit by driving forward if possible. Telstar trailer coupler as shown below.
You should also allow greater stopping distances because of
the added weight pushing against the vehicle when braking. A basic trailer toolkit should include the following:
The trailer brakes are a great assist when braking, yet the tow
1. Tire Pressure Gauge
vehicle’s stopping ability still won’t be as good as when not
towing. Allow for this by leaving more room in which to stop. 2. Long-Handled Lug Nut Wrench
3. 1 1/8” Wrench
When moving above 65 MPH, you may experience trailer 4. 1 1/8” Socket
sway on occasion when towing. If it’s persistent, pull over 5. Large Adjustable Wrench
and check that the hitch is still fastened securely to the tow 6. Flat & Phillips Head Screwdrivers
vehicle and that the hitchball and coupler haven’t loosened.
7. Spare Trailer Tire
If all those items pass inspection, your problem may be that
the trailer’s tongue weight (the amount of trailer weight on 8. Spare Electrical Fuses (5 amp through 30 amp)
the hitchball) is too light. The Telstar sits on the trailer so that 9. Wire Stripper/Crimper
between 10 and 15 percent of the total trailer weight is on 10. Wire Crimps/Connectors
the trailer tongue. Too much weight from cargo placed in 11. Spare Trailer Light Bulbs
the rear of the boat can affect the balance. 12. Duct Tape & Shipping Carpet
13. Wheel Bearing Grease & Grease Gun
To eliminate sway and balance the load on the trailer hitch,
we recommend considering a load leveling hitch such as
The Equalizer available at http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ or
by calling 800.478.5578.
 30 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

14. Circuit Tester Debug Plug. 4-way flat circuit tester tests
power supply to trailer lights. Checks turn signals, tail lights Attach a dock line to the bow cleat and stern cleat(s) to con-
and brake lights. Plugs into vehicle’s towplug. Uses vehicle’s trol the boat once launched. If equipped with the RayMarine
power supply. No batteries required. Available for $3.99 from
Northern Tool & Equipement - URL:
ST60 TriData, be sure to install the speed transducer in place
http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200307153.htm of the dummy plug prior to launching.

Engage the vehicle’s 4-wheel drive if so equipped. Slowly

Launching
back down the ramp and submerge the trailer so that the
Good launch ramp etiquette involves doing pre-launch du- outboard’s water intake is submerged. Start the outboard
ties in an area where you’re not blocking other boats from engine to enable it to warm up while you release the retriev-
being launched or retrieved. Prior to backing the trailer al hook and back the trailer down the ramp until the bow
Before launching, check to make sure the out- is just barely floating. The boat requires approximately 3’ of
rigger restraining wire is not caught water to launch. Once the boat is ready to be either floated
underneath the aft trailer support bunk. or motored off the trailer, engage “Park” and the parking
Tighten both the canvas and restraining lines break on your vehicle. You may also choose to use a tire stop
on both sides so no excess line can foul. for added security. Either under power or with the attached
dock lines, maneuver the boat into position for boarding.

down the launch ramp, inspect the ramp area and note After hauling the trailer back out of the water, you may want
where the end of the ramp is and the depth of the water. to spray down the trailer frame, support post rods, and brake
Note the wind direction and any current. With a short ramp, system with fresh water to prevent corrosion. The trailer
low tide can adversely affect launching and retrieving, so it’s comes equipped with a fresh water flushing system for the
best to take note of the local tide table. brakes. If you don’t plan on using the trailer again for a long
period of time, it’s advisable to tow the trailer for a few miles
Prior to launching, be sure to lower the forward and rear out- to enable the water to dry off and the brakes and bearings to
rigger support pads about 1/2”. Use a socket or wrench to warm up and rid themselves of salt deposits.
loosen the nuts below each support pad. The threaded post
will then lower enabling the boat to slip off the trailer eas-
ily. The boat can be launched with the outriggers retracted
Retrieving
or extended and the mast can either be raised or lowered. Before retrieving your Telstar the first time, it will be neces-
Open the fuel tank vent so the motor can start. Remove all sary to move the winch post forward 1’ on the trailer tongue.
straps and/or lines holding the boat to the trailer and all lines This ensures that the main hull can be positioned correctly
used to tie down the mast and deck hardware. Review the when retrieving the boat given the angle of the ramp. It
Launching Checklist in Chapter 12 of this manual. is therefore necessary to also move the trailer jack forward
slightly. Review photo “A” for details on moving the post.
1’

Move the winch post forward 1’ from it’s initial

position. Remove the rear “U” bolt and mind the
electrical wire for the trailer lights. The photo above
shows the post in the initial position.

PHOTO A
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 31

Once moved forward, the main hull bow will rest about 1’
back from the winch post roller - this is normal. For short- Once the outriggers are retracted, make sure
hop trailing, the main hull bow does not need to rest snug the restraining lines are tight and the jammers
are locked on both sides to prevent the out-
in the winch post roller. However, for a longer trip of several riggers from extended unintentionally while
hundred miles, we recommend moving the post back so hauling the Telstar up the ramp.
that the bow fits snugly in the roller.

Before retrieving your boat onto the trailer, again take note
of the ramp, water depth, wind direction, and current. Ob-
serve proper etiquette by having your trailer ready and the
boat ready to load onto the trailer and haul out reasonably
quickly.
Onboard the boat, retract the outriggers in as tight as pos-
sible. Be sure to tighten the outrigger restraining line using
the jammers in both cockpit lockers. In most cases, you will
also find it easier to lower the mast prior to retrieving the
boat on a trailer. If you are retrieving the boat with the mast
up, be absolutely sure there are no wires, branches, or any
type of overhead obstruction that the mast could hit. Also,
make sure you have raised the rudder as much as possible
and lock the rudder in the ‘up’ position using the line jammer.

On the trailer, the outrigger support pads should already be

lowered from launching. When retrieving, you will also want
to lower the forward main hull supports. Extend the trailer
guide posts on the back of the trailer and attach the PVC
pipes to guide the boat into position on the trailer. Before
With the boat in position, haul the trailer forward about 5’
immersing the trailer, take note of where the ramp ends to
forward and then stop to adjust the winch wire. As the
be sure the trailer won’t go off the edge of the ramp.
boat is hauled forward, the stern angles down to rest on the
Engage your vehicle’s 4-wheel drive mode (if equipped).
rear bunk support. In doing so, the bow pad-eye angles
Back the trailer down the ramp slowly. The forward main
up slightly and tightens the connecting winch wire. By not
hull bunk needs to be about 6” below the water to float the
hauling the boat forward more than about 5’, the winch wire
Telstar into position. Depending on the vehicle, you may
can be loosened rather than being left tight. With the winch
need to submerge the rear tires a couple of inches to gain
wire loosened, continue to haul the trailer out to a level area
the required depth for the trailer. With the trailer submerged,
where the boat can be prepared for trailing.
place the vehicle in “park,” engage the emergency brake, and
With the trailer stopped at a level area, inspect to see the
place a tire stop behind the forward wheel as a precaution.
boat is sitting level on the trailer. If the boat is slightly off,
Connect the winch wire to the pad-eye on the bow of the
it is possible to extend the outriggers to use as leverage
Telstar and begin to haul the boat into position. Use the
in adjusting the angle of the main hull. Simply extend the
PVC guide posts to keep the boat centered on the trailer.
outrigger and push down on it to adjust the main hull down
The boat should be able to float easily into position without
on either side.
excess load on the winch wire. Keep in mind - there are no
Raise the front and rear outrigger support pads using a 1 1/8”
rollers on the trailer, so do not expect to simply winch the
socket or wrench so that the pads are just snug against the
main hull up out of the water and into position.
outrigger hulls. Use the wrench to strongly tighten the lock
The main hull should be positioned so that the white line/
nut on each of the support pad’s threaded post.
mark on the hull is perpendicular to the forward angle-irons
on the trailer. The mark on the hull is made 46” back from
the bottom paint line at the bow. The mark makes an easy Follow the instructions listed earlier in this chapter and
gauge in determining the boat’s position relative to the double-check the rig using the checklist provided in chapter
trailer. 12 of the manual.

At this point, raise the forward main hull support pads so

that they are snug against the main hull but not taking an
active load.
 32 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

Launching & Retrieving Using a Travel Lift On the bow, the jack placement is not as critical. It is accept-
The Telstar 28 can be easily lifted using a standard marina able to jack the bow up just forward of the forward main hull
travel lift - but the lift straps must be positioned on the main support area.
hull only. You will also want to make sure than the lift straps
are not under the front and rear bulkheads where the boat
will rest on the trailer. Also, make sure the stern lift straps
are not against the outer flange near the stern. Review the
photos for correct strap placement.

When lifting the boat out of the water using a travel lift, you
may find it easier to have the straps connected and simply
pull the Telstar overtop of the straps and then position them
under just the main hull. Be sure to lock the retracted out-
riggers in using the jammers in each cockpit locker before
hauling the Telstar with a travel lift.

The photo shows the Telstar 28 being transported by a travel

lift with the lift straps in the correct positions.

Storing the Telstar on Jack Stands or Blocks

Ideally, the Telstar should be stored in the custom-fitted
trailer, but it can also be placed on jack stands or blocks
provided the support is made to the main bulkheads fore
and aft on the main hull.

The stern bulkhead is located under the gangway steps as

measured 7’ forward of the stern on the main hull. The bow
bulkhead is located 6’ back as measured from the top of the
bow. The stern bulkhead takes considerably more load than
the bow so be sure to use a large 2’ square of 3/4” plywood
to disperse the load over a wide area as opposed to plac-
ing a point-load on the main hull. The supports should also
be angled to follow the curvature of the hull as closely as
possible. The outriggers have integrated bulkheads fore and
aft but these should not take an active load when blocking.
Support for the outriggers, whether retracted or extended,
should simply prevent the boat from falling over.

Jacking Up the Main Hull

If you plan on painting the hulls with the Telstar on the
trailer, you may also want to paint the main hull support
areas both fore and aft. To gain access to these areas, it is
acceptable to jack the boat up but be sure to follow these
instructions.

The stern jack placement is critical. Place the jack directly

forward of the rudder case near the stern. Use a large square
of 3/4” thick plywood (2’ x 2’ or larger) on top of a block or
timber which you will place on top of the jack. The idea is
to avoid a point load on the hull and spread the load over as
wide and large an area of the main hull as possible. Jack the
main hull up only as high as is necessary to paint the support
areas.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 33

11
Cleaning Your Boat
General Maintenance

and naturally occurring atmospheric conditions can result in

deposits which can be quite corrosive. The primary contami-
After trailing your new Telstar home, one of the first things
nants are salt deposits from salt water.
you are likely to want to do is wash the boat. One of the
best detergents for getting white gel coat looking it’s best is
Following a regular habit of performing a fresh-water rinse of
Tide (with bleach) clothes washing detergent in warm water.
your boat will go a long way to keeping the stainless steel in
This solution is fine for the hatches and windows and rinses
good shape. Mild soap and water will remove most con-
easily. A small amount of acetone will remove any stubborn
taminants.
spots on the gel coat, but take care not to get acetone on
the windows, hatches, or any plastic (such as the instruments
For occasional cleaning or when the stainless steel needs
in the cockpit).
further attention, consider Flitz Metal Polish. Flitz not only
removes most contaminants and restores the stainless steel
Lexan Windows luster, but also protects the metal from further tarnishing for
The windows around the cabin are made of Lexan® polycar- up to six months.
bonate MR10 with a chemical and scratch resistant surface.
These windows should be washed with only warm soapy Flitz can be purchased locally or online at:
water. Should you ever want to replace a window, Lexan
sheets can be purchased from your local plastics supplier. http://www.flitz-polish.com
If the film on the polycarbonate is broken, chemicals will
degrade the polycarbonate. In extreme temperature differ- Lexan MR10 Do’s and Don’ts
ences, polycarbonate can expand 1/16” per foot. Therefore
an 8’ window will expand 1/2”. Fortunately, the surrounding
• Don’t clean with gasoline, Benzene,
surface will also expand a little. The expansion can make acetone, or carbon
maintaining a proper seal around the window difficult. • Don’t clean with abrasives or highly alkaline cleaners
The Telstar windows are sealed with a GE or Dow Corning • Don’t ever attempt to clean by scraping with
silicone. The secret to the success of this material is to get squeegees, metal, or a razor
the silicone at least 1/8” thick between the window and the • Don’t clean in direct sunlight or highly
cabin sides. This is achieved by creating a silicone dam on elevated temperatures
the insides of the screws. Liberal amounts of silicone are ap- • Do clean with Joy, Top Job, Windex with
plied between the dam and the edge of the window under Ammonia D, Palmolive Liquid
• If necessary, remove stickers with kerosene
the window. The excess silicone is wiped off, and previously

applied masking tape is removed leaving a straight line with No maintenance is required for the window seal.
the silicone tapering out from the window.

Stainless Steel Gel Coat Repairs

See Chapter 5 on Construction
Stainless steel is not a maintenance-free material and re-
quires regular attention to continue looking
and working its best. All grades of stainless Winterizing the Telstar
steel may stain, discolor, or collect dirt and Preparing your Telstar for a long period of non-use involves a
grime through normal use and depending on small amount of work to ensure the systems stay operational
the environment. Surface contamination and and ready for use in the spring.
the formation of deposits are critical factors
which may lead to drastically reduced life. Fresh Water & Holding Tank
These contaminants may be minute particles
Be sure to drain down the water tank as much as possible so
of iron or rust from other non-stainless steels.
that no water will freeze in the hoses leading to the galley
Industrial, commercial and even domestic
and head sinks. You may choose to pour a small amount of
 34 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

anti-freeze into the water tank and pump this through to the Consult the Venture Trailer Owners Manual for complete op-
head and galley sinks. We highly recommend using non- erating and maintenance instructions. The brief description
toxic propylene glycol anti-freeze. You will also want to have below applies to the custom frame installed by Performance
the holding tank pumped out before winter. Cruising.

Bilges 1.
Make sure the bilges and both buoyancy tanks in the stern
are dry and clean.

Battery
To extend the life of your battery, you should disconnect and
remove it for the winter. Check the electrolyte level through
the inspection ports and fill with distilled water as necessary.
Clean the terminal ends with a water/baking soda solu-
tion and rinse thoroughly. Apply a light coat of grease on
the battery terminals and cables. If possible, apply a trickle
charge to the battery while in storage.

Interior
Once you have taken care of the systems you should remove
any valuables, electronics, lines, PFD, fire extinguishers, flares,
fenders, etc. Over the winter these items can be cleaned, Regularly check that the threaded posts for the outrig-
checked and replaced as necessary. Open all drawers and ger support pads and main hull supports are thoroughly
lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so greased.
that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring
them home to a climate controlled area. Open and clean the 2. Re-apply shipping carpet to the forward and rear main hull
refrigerator and freezer. To keep your boat dry and mildew- bunks as necessary.
free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use some
of the commercially available odor and moisture absorber 3. Inspect the framework for any areas that look discolored
products such as “No Damp,” “Damp Away” or “Sportsman’s and apply galvanized trailer paint as necessary.
Mate.”
4. Regularly add trailer grease to the bearing buddies on
each of the wheels.
Trailer Storage
If possible, pressure wash the hulls, clean barnacles off props 5. Inspect the trailer lights, wires, and crimps for cuts, breaks,
and shafts, rudder, and centerboard. Clean all thru-hulls and or abrasions.
strainers. Open seacocks to allow any water to drain.
Bottom Paint
Engine The Telstar 28 is delivered with bottom paint (Interlux Bot-
Consult your Honda Outboard Owners Manual for specific tomKote Black 779). However, the problem with new boats
instructions on how best to winterize your engine. We is that the fiberglass is new and still releasing styrene. It is dif-
do recommend either topping off the fuel tank to avoid a ficult to get bottom paint to stick, even with coarse sanding.
buildup of condensation and using a fuel stabilizer. The procedure we follow is recommended by Interlux. We
use Solvent Wash 202 to remove traces of the mold wax. This
Shrink-Wrapping is done using many rags and taking care not to simply dilute
With the mast ready for trailing, the Telstar is especially the wax and smear it over the bottom. No-sand primer is
well-suited for shrink-wrapping as the mast makes a good then painted on the bottom. As soon as the no-sand primer
framework. is dry we paint on Fiberglass Bottom Kote. The bottom is not
sanded as that will damage the gelcoat.
Trailer Maintenance There are two types of bottom paint. Paint withcopper in it
Properly maintaining the Venture trailer will help ensure at various percentages and a paint that slowly washes off
trouble-free and safe trailing adventures. called an ablative paint. The copper-type paint works well for
the first 6 weeks because the copper is at the surface. As the
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 35

surface copper dissolves the bottom paint starts to loose its How Often Should I Paint My Boat?
efficiency. Unfortunately, applying numerous coats is a waste That depends on the type of antifouling that is used. The
of time. This loss of efficiency is true of all bottom paints, longevity of multi-season copolymers such as Micron Extra &
even popular paints such as Trinidad. Micron CSC is related to the amount of paint applied. These
paints will retain the antifouling properties as long as the
The ablative bottom paints like Interlux CSC work well paint is on the hull. Hard antifouling paints work by leaching
because as the paint is worn off new copper is exposed. The biocide out of the paint film and leaving the paint film
more coats that are applied the longer the paint will last. behind.
These types of paint will last many years.
When this paint film is left out of the water it oxidizes
We recommend Interlux Micron Extra 5693 Black for the and any biocide that is left in the coating will not leach out
Chesapeake Bay area. Because Trinidad and Interlux CSC are at the proper rate to control fouling.
soft paints they will fall off easily if the hull is new and still
releasing styrene. The system applied to Telstar from new will
start to loose its efficiency in the first few months and will Must I Sand the Bottom Before Repainting
need repainting in 9 months. At 9 months, there is no need with the Same Antifouling Especially Since It
to remove the original paint. Simply remove the barnacles Was Powerwashed in the Fall?
and any growth, power wash, and allow to dry. If any voids Antifouling paint is not meant to be exposed to the ele-
are discovered below the water line, fill with epoxy or 3M ments and when it sits out of the water for a couple of
Vinyl Ester filler. If any voids are discovered above the water months the outside layer of paint film becomes oxidized,
line, fill with gelcoat paste. and gets soft, plus it picks up dirt and dust. New paint does
not adhere well to this type of surface and may begin to peel
If necessary, lightly hand-sand any white areas and off. Most non-copolymer paints have a porous “leach layer”
paint on Interlux CFC right on top of the existing bottom and if they are painted over, after just a power washing the
paint. Paint the centerboard and rudder in the same manner pigment and the resin penetrate into that porosity and leave
as the hulls. Two coats of paint is sufficient and we recom- a “blush” of cuprous oxide on the surface. This is a cosmetic
mend applying extra paint to the bow points of each hull. problem and does not really affect the antifouling quality of
We highly recommend keeping up with scheduled bottom the paint but most people if they buy blue paint they want it
cleaning and painting. to look blue not purple. High-pressure fresh water washing
(3000 psi) will remove the leach layer but the paint will
Bottom Paint FAQ - need to be over-coated immediately after it dries. The other
Courtesy of BoatingMadeSimple.com reason for sanding antifouling paint is that there is only so
much paint that will hold onto a given surface. That amount
Antifouling paints are not meant to be cosmetic or decora- may be 10 coats or the first coat may delaminate. This is the
tive coatings and while every effort is made to make them related to how good the original surface preparation was
as aesthetically pleasing as possible. The copper compound and how it is maintained between recoating. Sanding when
within the antifouling is difficult to mask with color pig- recoating will add to the longevity of the bottom jobs. By
ments. sanding the bottom in the spring you will get more coats to
adhere and forestall the day when you must remove all the
All antifouling paints change when they are immersed. So antifouling paint from the surface. Soft resin based antifoul-
don’t be surprised when you have finished and the color is ings must always be sanded even if they have just been
not what you had hoped from the color chart, The true color powerwashed.
will establish itself after the boat has been launched. Copoly-
mer and ablative type coatings tend to fade more than Keep in mind that the hulls require only a light handsanding
hard antifouling paints. and not a power sanding.
Along the waterline you will often the antifouling looks dirty
or faded, and can even turn green. This is due to the reaction What Is The Difference Between Hard & Soft
of the paint with oxygen forming green copper oxide. Paints?
Antifouling type is dictated by the quality, combination,
Also paints with a higher copper content will turn greener at quantity and type of resin.
the waterline than paints with a lower copper content. For
these reasons you should try keep the paint as close to the Copolymer and Ablative Antifoulings
true waterline as possible. Fading is more noticeable in of These types of antifoulings are partially soluble which means
ablative coatings than in hard coatings. that as water passes across the surface of the coating, the
coating wears down much like a bar of soap would wear
 36 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

away The action of the water steadily reduces the thickness ingredient in antifouling paint. Teflon creates the lowest
of the paint at a controlled rate, which results in always coefficient of drag in any coating available. The lower the
having fresh biocide at the surface of the paint throughout friction, the less energy is required to move the boat
the season. For this reason these types of antifoulings have through the water. For powerboats this means greater
the capability to perform in the areas of highest fouling RPM’s, increasing speed and fuel savings. For sailboats,
challenge. greater speeds are achieved with less wind.

Hard antifoulings leach the biocide out of the paint film and Soft Antifoulings
leave the paint film behind on the hull, which causes a build
Soft or sloughing antifoulings provides dependable low cost
up of old, spent coatings, Because copolymer and ablative
protection for cruising boats or boats with displacement or
types of antifoulings wear away with use. There is no buildup
non-planing hulls. These paints are easy to clean and remove
of coatings that will eventually have to be removed from
at haul out which prevents paint build-up. These types of
the surface. The minimal build up reduces the maintenance
coatings must be launched within 48 hours of painting to
and preparation needed when it is time to apply more
retain maximum effect effectiveness.
antifouling.

In addition Copolymer types such as Micron Extra with Bio- Is More Copper Better In Bottom Paints?
lux and Micron CSC can be hauled and relaunched without The level of copper is not the only determining factor of
repainting as the longevity these coatings are related to the how an antifouling paint will perform. The resin-binder
thickness of the paint. system, the material that holds the paint together, is equally
important. Not only does the resinbinder system hold the
Ablative types such as Fiberglass Bottomkote Act do not paint together, it is the mechanism that determines how fast
retain their antifouling ability for more than 30 days after the copper and other biocide will be released. The resin-
being hauled out. binder system must be carefully tailored for the amount and
type of copper and other biocides used to obtain maximum
Hard Antifoulings efficiency The amount of copper or other biocide may effect
the life of an antifouling paint but the sophistication of the
The technical term for these types of antifouling paints is
resin-binder system to hold and release copper or other bio-
“contact leaching”. The paint dries to a porous film that is
cide at the proper rate is far more important to the effective-
packed with Biocides, which leach out on contact with water
ness of the antifouling.
to prevent fouling growth. This leaching is chemically design
to release biocide throughout the season, but the amount
A copolymer or ablative antifouling will release biocide at
will steadily decrease until there is not enough biocide com-
nearly constant rate throughout its life. For this reason,
ing out of the paint film to maintain fouling protection.
highly efficient antifouling paints like Micron, are less depen-
Once the biocide is exhausted, the hard paint film remains
dent on large amounts of copper and other Biocides and
on the boat. One of the main benefits of this type of antifoul-
deliver the best possible performance. The presence of
ing is its resistance to abrasion and rubbing. This makes
boosting biocides, such as Biolux, keeps the bottom clear of
it ideal for fast powerboats, racing sailboats or boats where
slime and makes the copper more effective.
the owners have the bottoms cleaned regularly.

Most hard antifouling paints can be wet sanded and bur- Why Should I Bother Painting My Boat?
nished prior launch to reduce drag and improve hull speed. Once fouling has established a hold on a boat hull it will
A disadvantage to hard antifouling paint is the buildup of rapidly spread or “colonize” the surface. Prevention is there-
residual paint film that occurs when the surface is not prop- fore better than the cure of having to remove the fouling by
erly sanded prior to application of new coats of antifouling. scraping. There are a number of key reasons to keep your
When hard paints are hauled and stored for the winter sea- hull free from fouling:
son, the paint film, as well as the biocide oxidizes and this Safety - Heavy fouling growth reduces responsiveness of the
makes it more difficult to release more biocide out of the craft. The added weight of the fouling can make the boat sit
film. For this reason, they must be sanded and recoated lower in the water than intended. This can have obvious
with fresh antifoulinq before relaunching. implications in heavy weather conditions.

Teflon Antifoulings Protection - Prolonged growth of certain types of fouling can

damage the substrate of the hull. For example, the natural
Most people associate Teflon with nonstick household prod-
glues used to attach organisms to the hull can damage
ucts or with the space program, but the properties that
wood and fiberglass. Fouling can also clog water intakes and
made it perfect for those applications also make it an ideal
cause damage to the engines.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 37

Speed and efficiency - Fouling causes drag. As drag is in- high wear areas such as the waterline and leading edges.
creased, fuel consumption increases and speed is reduced Since each coat of paint is only around two thousandths of
even to the point where a planing hull may not be able to an inch thick, it is vitally important to apply the correct
get on plane. For racing boats, this can be the difference number of coats.
between winning and losing a race.
Sometimes I hear stories of freshly painted
What’s This I Hear About Pettit’s Irgarol & hulls fouling.
Interlux’s Biolux Anti Slime Additives? Why does this happen?
Trinidad SR Slime-Resistant Antifouling Paint. How do you
Antifouling paints in general, perform admirably even when
make the best better? By adding new technological devel-
faced with overwhelming fouling pressure. Early fouling is
opments to your number one antifouling paint. Trinidad SR
often attributed to silt or slime clogging the pores of the
has the same basic hard-to-improve-on formula as our regu-
antifouling paint reducing its efficacy. This is why it is impor-
lar Trinidad but with the addition of a booster additive called
tant to maximize the service life of the antifouling paint
Irgarol, that significantly reduces soft growth and slime (SR
by lightly scrubbing periodically to remove slime or dirt
stands for Slime Resistant).
accumulations.
Irgarol was developed by the Ciba Additive Group has gone
through years of extensive testing under the auspices of the How long will the antifouling paint last?
EPA. Trinidad SR meets all VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) This depends on several factors, not the least of which are
regulations. Trinidad SR high copper load (contains 70.0% the choice of paint and location of the boat. Two coats of a
cuprous oxide), will give excellent service even in most heav- weaker paint applied to a boat in a high fouling area will
ily infested waters. Trinidad SR is easy to apply by brush, roller most likely not prevent fouling for the entire season. It is
or spray and has excellent adhesion to fiberglass, wood and important to match the paint with the boat location. When
steel hulls. Trinidad SR is available in four colors. the proper paint is chosen, two coats should last the entire
boating season. safety and safe procedures while harvesting
What is Biolux? geoducks.
Biolux is a unique antifouling technology developed by In-
terlux incorporating organic boosting biocides into a special
biocide release system. This blocks slime growth for a fouling
free boat bottom.

How does it work?

Just like ordinary plants, slime and algae feed on sunlight.
Formulations that use Biolux technology prevent algae and
slime from being able to grow by acting like sunscreen to
block this process.

Soon after the boat is launched it comes in contact with

algae in the water. Once these materials attach and feed,
they begin to secrete a gel like substance that attracts more
algae until it begins to look like a carpet on the bottom of
your boat. This increases drag, increases fuel consumption
and makes the boat more difficult to handle, which can be a
problem in heavy weather. If left on the surface, it restricts
the copper being released to the surface to prevent shell
fouling.

How many coats of antifouling paint

do I need for complete protection?
For complete protection throughout the boating season,
two full coats of antifouling paint are recommended. For
multi-seasonal protection with ablative antifoulings, three
or more coats are recommended, with an extra coat on
 38 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

Mast Raising
12 Operational Checklists

1. Check for overhead obstructions such as power lines, 9. Continue winching the mast up being careful not to
branches, overhangs, etc. let the forestay rub against the forward window on
2. Inspect the mast control line starting with the twin the front deck. The forestay can either be held off the
connections to frame “D” - see that the bowline knots window by an assistant or the furler can be wrapped in
are tied off and that the hooks are connected to the carpet to avoid scratching the window.
metal plates on either side of the PVC roller. If the 10. As the mast comes vertical, check that no wires or lines
top of the forestay was disconnected, reconnect the will get caught between the mast and the base as it
forestay with the pin. comes into position. Check that the back-stay is loose
3. Check the knots going to the stopping plate. and free.

4. Apply a small amount of grease to the mast base to 11. As the bottom of the mast rests on the base, continue
enable the mast to easily slide into position. to tighten the line and then cleat off.

5. Check that the back-stay is untied, loose, and not 12. Inspect that the mast is flush against the back of the
caught on anything. mast base. The mast can be moved the small amount
necessary using a flat-head screwdriver through either
6. Take the control line back through the guide block of the bolt holes on the front of the base. Pry the mast
and then to the starboard winch. Place 4 clock-wise back until flush against the back of the base.
wraps around the winch and lead the line into the
self-tailer. 13. Go forward to insert the fore-stay pin and split the
retaining cotter pin.
7. Insert a winch handle and simply begin winching the
mast up which will start with frame “D” pushing up 14. Insert the (2) retaining bolts at the base of the mast
from underneath. and tighten using the Nylock nuts.

8. As the stopper plate dead-ends against the pass- 15. Loosen the control line and disconnect the two lines
through roller at the base of the mast, the load on the from frame “D.” Install the two 18” stainless steel tubes
line will increase as the forward frame “A” and “B” tran- that hold frame “D” up.
sition to taking more load. 16. Coil the control lines at the base of the mast.

Control Line

Mast Support Stopping Plate

“D” Frame “A” Frame

“C” Frame
Guide Block “B” Frame

Fore-Stay
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 39

Mast Lowering Mast Lowering with Sails On

1. Check for 7’ clearance from both the bow and the stern. 1. When lowering the main, take care to flake it as tight as
possible.  Tighten the lazy jack lines all the way and try to
2. Remove the sails, boom, and frame “C” support struts.
flake the main as tight as possible.  Tie off the flaked main
2. Route the control line from the base of the mast, through using three sail ties. One of the challenges in lowering/
the guide block and back to the starboard sheet winch. raising the mast with the main sail on is to enable the sail
Place 4 clock-wise wraps around the winch and route the to pass through A-frame “D” easily. 
line into the self-tailer.
2. Before lowering the mast, take out the gooseneck pin and
3. If you stop lowering the mast at any point - be sure to tie off the boom to the gooseneck with a short length of
also cleat off the line in addition to running it through the line - about 8” or so.  This step enables you to raise the
self-tailer. boom up parallel to the mast.
4. Inspect the control line for any cuts, tears, or abrasions. 3. Take one of the lazy jack lines coming off the mast and tie
Only use the line if it is good condition. it to the end of the boom - where the topping lift attaches.
5. Un-cleat and remove the roller-furling line from the guide 4. Keep the sail cover on and all twist-knobs on - except
on the bow. Coil the line at the base of the furler. those on the front of the mast - open these up.
6. Remove the (2) bolts at the base of the mast and stow. 5. Raise up the boom until it is parallel with the mast - use
the lazy jack line and also tighten up on the topping lift
7. Disconnect the electrical connections for the VHF antenna,
line.  Cleat both lines off.
mast light, and wind transducer.
6. With the mast control line tight in the winch and cleated,
8. Connect the (2) control line from frame ‘D’ to the attach-
release the fore-stay pin.
ment points on either side of the PVC roller on frame ‘C.’
Disconnect and stow the 18” struts supporting frame ‘C.’ 7. Release and bundle the fore-stay furling line.
9. Disconnect the genoa halyard from the forestay swivel 8. Release the backstay tension and give it a tug to get the
and attach the shackle back on itself at the mast. mast base going forward by providing a little slack in the
10. Check the topping lift line, main halyard, and spinnaker control line going around the winch.
halyard are also connected back on themselves at the 9. Let the mast go forward as usual - but this time, tie off the
mast. fore-stay (with genoa on) to the side of the mast instead of
11. Be sure the back-stay is loose so as to ease the placing it in the fork.  With the genoa on, there is potential
load on the forestay. for the control line plate to “crunch” against the genoa
- something to avoid.
12. With the main control line tight on the winch and cleated,
straighten the cotter pin holding the forestay clevis pin, 10. Disconnect the genoa halyard from the forestay swivel
remove it, and remove the forestay pin. Stow the clevis and attach the shackle back on itself at the mast.
pin and cotter pin on the forestay shackle. Split the cotter 11. As the mast lowers, take care to check that the main sail
pin slightly. is passing through frame “D” easily.  It may require you to
13. If the clevis pin will not release easily, cleat the spinnaker stop and push through the main sail. This depends on how
halyard to the foredeck cleat and tighten the line at the tightly the main was flaked in step 1. 
mast. This will bend the top of the mast forward enough 12. Proceed as usual with the standard mast lowering.
to make removing the pin easy.
13. When raising the mast - you will reverse these steps.
14. To start the mast lowering, take the control line off the Raising is fairly easy - with one more bit of advice.  When
cleat in the cockpit and, with a firm hand on the control attempting to re-insert the gooseneck pin (after the mast
line, give a slight tug to the backstay to start the base of is up and the boom lowered), make sure you loosen the
the mast moving forward. Give a small amount of slack on out-haul line. The out-haul line is the center line going
the control line as you tug the backstay. through the jammer at the forward end of the boom. 
15. With 4 clock-wise wraps around the winch, continue eas- Without loosening this line, aligning the boom to the
ing the line out with your right hand while guiding and gooseneck is difficult.
braking the line on the winch with your left hand.
16. As the top of the mast comes back, have an assistant hold
the forestay off the forward window. Alternatively, cover
the window with the folded main sail cover to prevent it
from getting scratched.
17. As the mast begin to lower the final 1/3 of the way down,
frame ‘C’ will support and roll with the mast as it lowers.
Check that the mast continues to lower and clear any
obstructions (such as an out of place halyard) as the mast
continues down.
18. Lower the mast until resting on the stainless steel arch at
the stern. Once lowered, continue to lower frame “D” so
that it is resting against the mast.
 40 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

Launching from the Trailer Retrieving onto the Trailer

1. Inspect the launch ramp and surrounding area. Note the 1. Retract the outriggers as tight as possible and tighten the
length of the ramp, depth of the water, current, wind direc- outrigger restraining line using the jammers in both of the
tion, and any overhead wires or obstructions. cockpit lockers. Failure to lock the outriggers in with the
jammer can result in the outrigger(s) extending uninten-
2. Lower the front and rear outrigger support pads so that
tionally while being hauled up the ramp!
there is at least 1/4” of clearance.
2. Raise rudder and lock in ‘up’ position using line jammer
3. Remove all straps holding the boat to the trailer.
3. The outrigger support pads should already be lowered
4. Remove the shipping line around the rudder.
following launching the boat. Confirm that the pads are
5. Install the speed transducer in place of the dummy plug (if lowered before retrieving.
equipped with the ST60 TriData).
4. Lower the forward main hull supports by 3” to 6”
6. Attach dock lines to the bow and stern cleats.
5. Extend and lock the trailer guide posts and attach the PCV
7. Open fuel tank vent. tubes to help guide the boat into place.
8. Tighten outrigger restraining line and canvas line in the 6. Take note of the end of the ramp and depth of water.
cockpit. Make sure no excess line is caught underneath 7. Engage tow vehicle’s 4 wheel drive mode (if equipped)
the trailer’s stern bunk support.
8. Slowly back trailer down ramp until the forward main hull
9 Engage 4-wheel drive on tow vehicle (if equipped).
support bunk is about 6” below the water.
10. Slowly back the trailer down the ramp until the front sup-
9. Depending on the tow vehicle, you may find it necessary
port bunk is about 6” below the water line and the main
to back down so far as to submerge the rear tires by a
hull is just about floating. You may need to immerse the
couple of inches.
tow vehicle’s rear tires by a couple of inches.
10. With the trailer submerged, engage the vehicle’s parking
11. Engage “Park” and the Emergency Brake on the tow
break, engage in “Park”, and place a tire stop behind the
vehicle. Place a tire stop behind front wheel.
forward wheel for added security.
12. Loosen and disconnect the winch hook from the bow
11. Move the Telstar into position between the PVC guide
13. Provided the engine water intake is below the waterline, posts and connect the winch wire to the padeye on the
the engine can be started to warm up. bow of the boat.
14. Slide the boat off the trailer either using the dock lines on 12. The boat should be able to easily float into position - DO
the bow and stern or under power with the engine. NOT PLACE EXCESSIVE LOAD ON THE WINCH WIRE TO
15. After pulling the trailer out of the water, either perform MOVE THE TELSTAR FORWARD.
a fresh-water rinse of the brakes and frame or take the 13. To check for the correct position on the trailer, the white
trailer for a brief ride to dry it off and rid the brake drums indicator mark on the main hull should be perpendicular
of salt deposits. to the forward angle irons on the trailer. The indicator
16. Store and lock the trailer mark on the hull is made 46” from the bow along the bot-
tom paint line. The bow should also be snug against the
winch post bow roller. Also check to see that the stainless
steel stern supports are resting square on the trailer’s
main hull stern supports.
14. Haul the boat forward about 5’ and stop the vehicle to
ease the winch wire.
15. With the winch wire loosened, continue hauling the trailer
clear of the launch ramp.
16. With the trailer stopped at a level area, inspect to see that
the boat is resting level on the trailer.
17. Raise the front and rear outrigger support pads so that the
pads are snug against the outrigger hulls.
18. With the boat in position, raise the forward main hull sup-
ports so that each is snug against the main hull.
19. Be certain to thoroughly tighten the lock nuts on each of
the outrigger support pad’s threaded post to prevent the
pads from lowering while underway.
20. Review the checklist covering preparation for trailing.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 41

Before Getting Underway Before Leaving the Boat

1. Make sure your registration certificate is visible or 1. Raise centerboard and tighten lock nut
documentation is onboard and available.
2. Raise up the engine and check clearance for rudder
2. Make sure you have charts of the area and compass
3. Turn “off” batteries
3. Check marine weather forecast
4. Replace sail cover
4. Check for Coast Guard Safety Kit
5. Check that both hatches are shut and locked
5. Turn on batteries, instruments, and VHF radio - monitor 16
6. Check gangway sliders and lock are in place
6. Confirm location and quantity of PFD’s for each person
7. Double check all dock lines and spring lines by taking into
7. Check outboard engine oil and fuel level account tidal variances
8. Turn off shore power panel and disconnect cable 8. Double-check the cleat on furling lines for genoa and
screacher. If leaving the boat for an extended period of
9. Lower the engine mount and engine time, lower and stow the screacher sail
10. Extend and lock outriggers out 9. Locate fenders around the boat
11. Clear any loose lines away from propeller
12. Provided there is enough depth, lower the centerboard
13. Close and lock the forward hatch
14. Check that the bilge is dry
15. For an extended cruise, issue a float plan with a family
member for friend including description of the boat,
origin, destination, and schedule
16. Start engine and allow to warm up
17. Remove the leeward dock lines then the windward lines
 42 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

13 Options & Accessories

Cockpit Bimini
The Telstar 28 has an optional cockpit bimini that can fold Both bimini tops, as well as the dodger, are manufactured
forward when not in use. The bimini is held in place by four by ALMO Products. For replacement straps, custom work, or
straps. The forward straps go to the second opening on the repairs, contact ALMO directly at: 410.987.2121
handrail on the main deck. The aft straps connect around
the vertical stainless rail in the cockpit. Dodger

The optional dodger provides good spray and wind protec-

tion for the cockpit and lessens any rain water entering the
Aft Seat Bimini cabin. The installation includes a roll-up front window for
The optional aft seat bimini acts to shade the two starboard enabling a through-flow of breeze in good weather. The
aft seats and installs in much the same manner as the cock- dodger incorporates the stainless steel struts that lift frame
pit bimini. There are two attachment points on the stainless “C.” To install the dodger, first temporarily remove both struts
rail for this bimini top. The forward attachment point is and raise the dodger frame. Lay the canvas overtop of the
for lowering and folding the bimini back during trailing. If frame and then re-insert the struts. Connect all the dodger
your boat has the aft seat bimini, you will need to move deck snaps before tying off cockpit end to tighten the entire
the bimini rails to the connection points further aft before installation.
opening the bimini frame.
RayMarine ST1000 Plus Autopilot
The RayMarine autopilot (A12004) is ideal for single-hand-
ing the Telstar or for extended cruising. The unit can steer
by both compass heading as well as by wind direction (by
wiring into the optional RayMarine ST60 Wind Instrument).
Additionally, the unit provides automatic tacking so that the
helmsman can work the sheets while the autopilot tacks/
gybes the boat through the wind.

When using the autopilot under engine, be sure to raise the

centerboard as this will make staying on course easier for the
autopilot.
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 43

The ST1000 Plus can also be outfitted with a remote control

(either the S100 - E15024 or the SmartController - E15023).

For best use, be certain to read through and follow the setup
and calibration guides included with the ST1000 as part of
the commissioning process.
 44 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

14 Parts Supplier Information

Canvas Work, Biminis, Lifelines & Pelican Hooks

Dodgers, & Interior Cushions Performance Yacht Systems
ALMO Products 222 Severn Avenue Suite 9
PO Box 944 Annapolis MD 21403
Serendipity Drive (410) 268-9696
Millersville MD 21108 PYacht.com
410.987.2121
Mast & Rigging
Compass (Plastimo Contest 101) US Spars
Navimo USA 6320 NW 123rd Place
7455 16th Street East, Suite 107 Gainesville, FL 32653
Sarasota, FL 34243 386-462-3760
Toll-free 866.383.1888 386-462-3448 fax
Toll-free fax 866.214.1400 info@usspars.com
email: info@navimousa.com http://www.usspars.com/
http://www.plastimousa.com/
Furlex Furling System
Selden Mast Inc.
Electronics (ST60 Wind/TriData/VHF Radio/Autopilot) 4668 Franchise St.
N. Charleston, SC 29418
RayMarine Inc. Customer Support
843-760-6278
Telephone: 603 881 5200
843-760-1220 fax
Facsimile: 603 864 4756
info@seldenus.com
http://www.raymarine.com/
http://www.seldenus.com

Deck Plugs Mast Raising / Lowering Framework

Mast Head Light:
KATO Marine Manufacturing
Hella 12V Plug & Socket Model - 4 Pin Model 62873
7416 Edgewood Road
Annapolis, MD 21403
Wind:
410-269-1218
Hella 12V Plug & Socket Model - 7 Pin Model 62874
410-269-5230 fax
katomarine@comcast.net
http://www.katomarine.com/
Hatches (N1039-10AX / NS2039-EX Screens)
Bomar Inc. Sails (Main/Genoa/Screecher/Spinnaker)
SO. West St P.O. Box 1200
Bierig Sails
Charlestown, NH 03603
11092 Freeport Lane
(603) 826-5791
N. East PA 16428
http://www.pompanette.com
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 45

814.459.8001

Stainless Steel (Pulpit/Pushpit/Stanchions)

Tops in Quality
314 East Huron Blvd
P.O. Box 148
Marysville Michigan 48040
(810) 364-7150
tiq@topsinquality.com

Stove
Leisure Products
Holly St Astley Bridge
Bolton BL186R England
0204 308 458

Trim
Trimlock
P.O. Box 6180
6855 Hermosa Circle
Buena Park CA 90622-6180
(714) 562-0500

Winches (Model: 40 AST Ocean Winches)

Lewmar IMI
New Whitfield St
Gulford CT 06437
(203) 458-6200
http://www.lewmar.com/
46 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran
 15 Reference

The Beaufort Scale

Force Wind Speed in Knots Conditions
0 <1 Calm, sea like a mirror.
1 1-3 Light air, ripples only.
2 4-6 Light breeze, small wavelets (0.2m). Crests have a glassy appearance.
3 7-10 Gentle breeze, large wavelets (0.6m), crests begin to break.
4 11-16 Moderate breeze, small waves (1m), some white horses.
5 17-21 Fresh breeze, moderate waves (1.8m), many white horses.
6 22-27 Strong breeze, large waves (3m), probably some spray.
7 23-33 Near gale, mounting sea (4m) with foam blown in streaks downwind.
8 34-40 Gale, moderately high waves (5.5m), crests break into spindrift.
9 41-47 Strong gale, high waves (7m), dense foam, visibility affected.
10 48-55 Storm, very high waves (9m), heavy sea roll, visibility impaired. Surface generally white.
11 56-63 Violent storm, exceptionally high waves (11m), visibility poor.
12 64+ Hurricane, 14m waves, air filled with foam and spray, visibility bad.

Wave heights quoted are approximately those that may be expected in the open sea. In enclosed waters the waves will be smaller
and steeper. Fetch, depth, swell, heavy rain and tide will also affect their height, and there will also usually be a time lag between any
increase in the wind and the consequent increase in the sea
 48 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

Coast Guard Compliance Documented vessels must have their name and hailing
The Telstar 28 is delivered with a Danforth anchor, fenders, port (including city name and state abbreviation) marked
and mooring lines. As most sailors already have some boat together in clearly legible letters no less than 4” in height on
gear, Performance Cruising does not provide a Coast Guard a clearly visible portion of the hull. Some states may also re-
kit. The recommended items for use are listed below. quire a validation sticker to be displayed. Offshore Safety Kit
For offshore use, we recommend the following items in addi-
tion to the standard safety items listed above:
® Charts and Reeds Almanac

® VHF Radio
® Radar Reflector
® Dividers
® Solar Flares
® Fire Extinguishers (mounted)
® Safety Harness
® Flare Kit
® GPS
® Flash Lights
® Single Sideband
® Binoculars
® Life raft
® Fog Horn or Bell
® Emergency Water
® Life Jackets for each Person Onboard
® Water Maker
® Spare Anchor, Chain, and Line
® Solar Power
® Throw float / cushion
® Storm Sails
® First Aid Kit
® Ships Log
® Manual Bilge Pump
® Hand Bearing

Registration numbers must be painted or permanently at- ® EPIRB

tached to the forward half of the boat (and may include the ® Life Sling (man pulley block overboard recovery, com-
plete w/pulley block system to raise man overboard)
outrigger). The numbers always start with the state of regis-
tration followed by the registration numbers which must be ® Foul Weather Gear
plain, vertical, block characters no less than 3” in height. ® Tool Set
We also recommend having a minimal toolkit onboard to
consist of: ® Spare Parts (including sealants and fiberglass paste)

® Sail Repair Equipment

® Set of screwdrivers—various sizes of flat and ® Emergency Steering

phillips heads
® Binoculars
® 8” Adjustable Wrench
® Bosun’s Chair
® 8” Vice Grip Wrench
® Set Flags
® Socket Set—Metric
® Bucket
® Wrenches—Metric

Coast Guard Documentation

The Telstar 28 can be documented with the USCG.

Vessels that are documented have their identity officially

established by the U.S. Coast Guard who also issues the
Certificate of Documentation which must be onboard at all
times. The Documentation Certificate identifies the vessel by
name, hailing port, port of documentation, official number,
net and gross tonnage, and owner’s name and address.

The official number assigned must be permanently marked

on some clearly visible interior structure in plain, vertical,
block characters no less than 3” in height starting with “No.”
 Telstar 28 Trimaran  | 49

Polar Diagrams
A polar diagram measures the boat’s sail speed performance at all angles to the wind based on various wind speeds. The
boat speed is measured using the concentric circles. The charted performance of your Telstar is useful as a historical analysis
your sailing skills, comparing the Telstar to other boats, and for charting the boat’s performance under varying conditions.
Start charting your Telstar’s performance by heading in a consistent direction off the wind and marking the boat’s speed on
the corresponding wind speed polar chart. Continue to update your charts and in time, you can combine the points into a
useful analysis of the Telstar’s sailing performance.

6-8 Knot Winds 8-10 Knot Winds

WIND WIND

14 Knots 14 Knots
-30˚ 30˚ -30˚ 30˚
12 Knots 12 Knots

10 Knots 10 Knots

8 Knots 8 Knots
-60˚ 60˚ -60˚ 60˚
6 Knots 6 Knots

4 Knots 4 Knots

2 Knots 2 Knots
-90˚ (Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
90˚ -90˚ (Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
90˚
2K 2K
nots nots
4 Knots 4 Knots

6 Knots 6 Knots

-120˚ 8 Knots 120˚ -120˚ 8 Knots 120˚

10 Knots 10 Knots

12 Knots 12 Knots
-150˚ 14 Knots 150˚ -150˚ 14 Knots 150˚
180˚ 180˚
(Dead Run) (Dead Run)

10-12 Knot Winds 12-14 Knot Winds

WIND WIND

14 Knots 14 Knots
-30˚ 30˚ -30˚ 30˚
12 Knots 12 Knots

10 Knots 10 Knots

8 Knots 8 Knots
-60˚ 60˚ -60˚ 60˚
6 Knots 6 Knots

4 Knots 4 Knots

2 Knots 2 Knots
-90˚ (Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
90˚ -90˚ (Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
90˚
2K 2K
nots nots
4 Knots 4 Knots

6 Knots 6 Knots

-120˚ 8 Knots 120˚ -120˚ 8 Knots 120˚

10 Knots 10 Knots

12 Knots 12 Knots
-150˚ 14 Knots 150˚ -150˚ 14 Knots 150˚
180˚ 180˚
(Dead Run) (Dead Run)
 50 |  Telstar 28 Trimaran

14-16 Knot Winds 16-18 Knot Winds

WIND WIND

14 Knots 14 Knots
-30˚ 30˚ -30˚ 30˚
12 Knots 12 Knots

10 Knots 10 Knots

8 Knots 8 Knots
-60˚ 60˚ -60˚ 60˚
6 Knots 6 Knots

4 Knots 4 Knots

2 Knots 2 Knots

-90˚ 90˚ -90˚ (Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
90˚
(Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
2K
2K
nots nots

4 Knots 4 Knots

6 Knots 6 Knots

-120˚ 8 Knots 120˚ -120˚ 8 Knots 120˚

10 Knots 10 Knots

12 Knots 12 Knots

-150˚ 14 Knots 150˚ -150˚ 14 Knots 150˚

180˚ 180˚
(Dead Run) (Dead Run)

18-20 Knot Winds 20-22 Knot Winds

WIND WIND

14 Knots 14 Knots
-30˚ 30˚ -30˚ 30˚
12 Knots 12 Knots

10 Knots 10 Knots

8 Knots 8 Knots
-60˚ 60˚ -60˚ 60˚
6 Knots 6 Knots

4 Knots 4 Knots

2 Knots 2 Knots

-90˚ 90˚ -90˚ (Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
90˚
(Beam Reach on Starboard Tack) (Beam Reach on Port Tack)
2K
2K
nots nots

4 Knots 4 Knots

6 Knots 6 Knots

-120˚ 8 Knots 120˚ -120˚ 8 Knots 120˚

10 Knots 10 Knots

12 Knots 12 Knots

-150˚ 14 Knots 150˚ -150˚ 14 Knots 150˚

180˚ 180˚
(Dead Run) (Dead Run)
Telstar 28 Trimaran
Owner ’s Manual
Performance Cruising Inc. 7353 Edgewood Road Annapolis Maryland 21403
www.performancecruising.com info@performancecruising.com