SUPERB

CARTIER
JEWELS
FROM A
PRIVATE
COLLECTION
LOTS 499–502

xxx

310 SOTHEBY’S
Lots 501 and 502

MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS 311

‘THE
SUNRISE
RUBY’

502

ᆗ 502

PROPERTY OF A LADY

Superb and extremely rare ruby and diamond

ring, Cartier
Set with ‘The Sunrise Ruby’, a cushion-shaped ruby weighing
25.59 carats, between shield-shaped diamonds weighing 2.47
and 2.70 carats, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and
maker’s marks, size 54, case signed Cartier.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 78414 and Gübelin report

no. 15020105, each stating that the ruby is of Burmese
origin, with no indications of heating, ‘pigeon blood colour’,
together with appendix letters; together with gemmological
reports for the diamonds.

CHF 11,700,000-17,500,000 US$ 12,000,000-18,000,000

322 SOTHEBY’S
 THE SUNRISE RUBY

By Rumi (1207-1273)

“In the early morning hour,

just before dawn, lover and beloved wake
and take a drink of water.
She asks, “Do you love me or yourself more?
Really, tell the absolute truth.”
He says, “There’s nothing left of me.
I’m like a ruby held up to the sunrise.
Is it still a stone, or a world
made of redness? It has no resistance
to sunlight.”...

From ‘The Essential Rumi’

Translated by Coleman Barks, Penguin Books, 1995

502 enlarged

MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS 323

SSEF
SCHWEIZERISCHES GEMMOLOGISCHES INSTITUT
SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE
INSTITUT SUISSE DE GEMMOLOGIE

Gemstone Report No. 78414

magn~ication 1 .5x

Weight: 25.596 ct

Shape & cut: antique cushion, brilliant / step cut

Measurements: 17.66 x 15.07 x 10.47 mm

Colour: red of strong saturation

Identification: RUBY
(variety of natural corundum)

Comments: The analysed properties confirm the authenticity

of this transparent ruby.

No indications of heating.

Origin: Burma (Myanmar)

The colour of this ruby may also be called

'pigeon blood red' in the trade.

Important Note: The conclusions on this Gemstone Report reflect our findings at the ~ m e it is issued . A gemstone cou ld be modified and/or enhanced at any time. Therefore the
SSEF can reassess at any ~me if a stone is in line with the Gemstone Report. Only the report with the valid original signatures, embossed stamp and Proof Tag"" label affixed on to
the surface of the laminated report is a valid document. See terms and condi~ons on reverse side. © This Gemstone Report is copyright of SSEF.

Report authentication Oog on to www.prooftag.com)

SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE - SSEF

Basel, 4 February 2015 cp

~~w~o~!:!
ret. 0 JBOO FWDS 20663 '

Dr. W. Zhou, FGA

SSEF
SCHWEIZERISCHES GEMMOLOGISCHES INSTITUT
SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE
INSTITUT SUISSE DE GEMMOLOGIE

Appendix letter

Exceptional Ruby: 'The Sunrise Ruby'

The natural ruby described in the Gemstone Report No 78414 from the Swiss Gemmological
Institute SSEF possesses unique characteristics and merits special mention and appreciation.

The described ruby exhibits a very impressive size and weight of 25.596 ct, combined with a
highly attractive colour and a fine purity. Its colour is further pronounced by its well-proportioned
cutting style, resulting in vivid red hues due to multiple internal reflections . Due to complex
geological formation processes rubies of such quality generally are found in small crystals and
only very exceptionally in such a size as the present stone. Based on these qualities, this gem
has been named poetically' The Sunrise Ruby'.

The few small inclusions found by microscopic inspection are the hallmarks of rubies from the
classical ruby mines in the Mogok valley in Burma (Myanmar), well known for its wealth in gems
since historic times. Its vivid but saturated colour, poetically referred to as pigeon blood red, is
due to a combination of well-balanced trace elements in the stone, typical and characteristic for
the finest rubies of Mogok.

In addition to these qualities, this ruby has been spared exposure to heat treatment and its clarity
and colour are thus all natural.

The Swiss Gemmologicallnstitute SSEF has tested and certified the most prestigious rubies offered
in the trade in the last decades. Based on our records we can conclude that a natural ruby from
Burma of this size and colour is extremely rare. Thus, the described gemstone with its combination
of outstanding characteristics can be considered a unique treasure of nature.

SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE - SSEF

Basel, 4 February 2015 cp

~~w~o~!:~
I rei. 0 JBOO DMFA 44317

Dr. W. Zhou, FGA

~bl\~
r. M. S. Krzemnlckl, FGA
 @
Cil:.lBELIN
CiEMLAB

Gemstone Report

No. 15020105
Date 11 February 2015
Item One faceted gemstone
Weight 25.59 ct
Shape cushion-shape
Cut brilliant cut / step cut
Measurements 17.68 x 15.07 x 10.47 mm
Transparency transparent
Colour red
Species Natural corundum
Variety Ruby
Origin Gemmological testing revealed characteristics consistent with those of
rubies originating from:
Burma (Myanmar)
Condition No indications of heating (NTE).
Comments This colour variety of ruby may also be called "pigeon blood red" in the
trade .
See Appendix .
See Information Sheet(s).
Important notes and limitations on the reverse .

Sonia Cherchi Dr. Stefanos Karampelas

 ®
CiClBELIN
CiEMLAB

Appendix

to Report No. 15020105

'The Sunrise Ruby'

Unrivalled in colour , life, and vitality, for thousands of years, ruby has been named the king of gems
and it is for these particular characteristics that it rose as a paramount favourite among all the
representatives. of coloured gemstones. Hardly any other gem can inspire such emotions as does the
ruby. Among most peoples, it has forever symbolized the highest of earthly possessions - love. To
children born in the month of July , it promises the much sought after benefits of freedom, goodness,
respect, and dignity . This "flaming beacon" owes its popularity to the majestically glowing colour of a
fiery red with a lacquered sheen. Its name, derived from the Latin word ruber (red), represents the
embodiment of the most beautiful red conceivable . Light and velvety shades change from pink to
darkest purple. The highlight of all beauty, however, the finest and most precious shade is the pigeon's
blood red, a full -toned shading of carmine red. The brighter, the livelier the red sparkles, the more
exquisite and precious is the ruby .

Together with the sapphires, the ruby belongs to the corundum family. It is also composed of
crystallized alumina und thus has the same superb properties. The high degree of hardness, its high
density , and its high refractive index safeguard its position just below the diamonds. Nevertheless, it
has no need to acknowledge any superior authority

1'1-\1'1'" IIH
RUBY MINE DI STRIC TS or BURMA
"'... ~d t.,. 11 ,~ .. ,. ........ , ••

,...

The earliest known map of the ruby and sapphire mining district detailing the Mogok stone tract, the
Mogok valley and the surrounding areas. Drafted by Robert Gordon, 1887.
 ®
CiClBELIN
CiEMLAB

The high esteem with which it has long been held in the East is perfectly e xpressed by two of its
names in Sanskrit: ' Ratnaraj' , 'king of the precious stones' and 'Ratnanayaka ', 'leader of precious
stones '. The outstanding colour of ruby is attributable to the introduction of chromium o xide, which
found its way into the corundum structure an infinite number of years ago and replaced a small
percentage of alumina.

The 25.59 et 'Sunrise Ruby '

For more (han a thousand years , the fabled mines of Mogok in upper Burma have been a prima r y
source of these auspicious gems . Very little is known or recorded about the first 1000 years of mining
and gem trad ing in this region. In particular, the actual source of these precious stones remained a
close-kept secret for many centuries . It was not until the 1830's that western adventurers were finally
able to reach these remote and legendary mines.

The 25.59 ct ruby described in the above mentioned Gubelin Gem Lab Report possesses a
combination of outstanding characteristics . It displays a homogeneous and richly saturated "pigeon
blood red" c olour, which typifies the finest of these gems. The depth of colour, combined with a high
clarity and brilliance, all contribute to the beauty of the gem. The shape and finely proportioned cut
provide vivid internal colour reflections. In addition, this remarkable gemstone has been spared thermal
treatment.

Such a combinat ion of characteristics is very rare in Burmese rub ies of this si ze.
502 enlarged

MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS 329