Frequently Asked Questions- Anodes

What do sacrificial anodes do?

All metals immersed in an electrolyte (sea water for example) produce an
electrical voltage. When two dissimilar metals are in contact (electrically
connected) they produce a galvanic cell (like a battery), with the less noble
metal (Zinc) for example forming the anode and the more noble metal (Stainless
Steel) forming the cathode. The anode sacrifices itself by corroding (giving up
metal) to protect the cathode - hence the term sacrificial anode.
What factors increase corrosion?
The voltage difference between the two metals will affect the rate of corrosion.
For example a stainless steel prop, which is a relatively noble metal, will cause
more corrosion of a set of zincs than a bronze prop.
Corrosion will increase the saltier the water is. Increasing temperature will also
increase the conductivity of water and the resulting corrosion. The corrosion
rate doubles with every 10 degrees Celsius (18 degrees Fahrenheit) increase in
temperature. Pollution can also increase corrosion. For example, many
freshwater lakes have been contaminated by acid rain, which increases the
conductivity of the water and therefore corrosion rates.
When should sacrificial anodes be replaced?
Anodes should be changed, at least, on an annual basis (including anodes in
fresh water) or when they have corroded to half their original size
What precautions should I take when installing new anodes?
Make sure they make good electrical contact with the metal that is being
protected. Remove any paint and clean the metal surface that will be in contact
with the anode.
DON’T paint anodes! They can’t work if they are covered up.
What type of anodes should I use for my sterndrive?
Sterndrives and outboards are made from aluminum alloys, which are
particularly prone to corrosion (less noble metal). The use of aluminum anodes
is strongly recommended. They give much better protection in both salt and
fresh water.
What else should I do to help protect my sterndrive?
Keep paint (on engines, sterndrive units etc.) in good condition. A small scratch
will corrode rapidly.
Leave the sterndrive unit immersed in the water. If you don’t the anodes can’t
work.
Don’t use anti-fouling paint containing copper or mercury on a sterndrive unit.
The metal in the paint will increase galvanic corrosion.
Don’t mix zinc anodes on the hull with aluminum anodes on the drive. The
aluminum anodes will protect the zinc anodes in addition to the unit.
What anodes should I use on Trim Tabs?
Trim tabs are usually made of stainless steel and they should be protected with
small zinc trim tab/rudder anodes. Do not bond the trim tabs to the main internal
bonding system! A drive unit may corrode trying to protect the trim tab and its
zincs. An unprotected trim tab will corrode rapidly.
What anodes should I use in freshwater?
Where possible aluminum anodes are recommended over zinc. Zinc anodes
can become inactive after only a few months due to the build up of an insulating
film of zinc hydroxide. Aluminum anodes will remain active.
Zinc anodes should be changed on an annual basis, even if they look OK –
remember the coating!
Why aluminum?
As discussed above, aluminum is a more active alloy creating a greater
protective voltage difference (-1.10V compared with –1.05V). It also has a much
higher current capacity for the same weight (1150Ahr/lb compared with 368
Ahr/lb for zinc). The result - an anode made in aluminum gives better protection
and lasts longer than the same anode made in zinc. Also, aluminum does not
suffer from the problem of becoming inactive in freshwater.
What ensures that Performance Metals anodes give the best protection?
All Performance Metals anodes meet MIL specifications. The alloy in our zinc
anodes meets MIL-A-18001 and in our aluminum indium anodes meets MIL-A-
24779. The anodes are manufactured by an established and experienced die-
caster, with full ISO 9001 quality systems and technical back up.
How do Perfomance Metals supply their anodes?
Performance Metals aluminum anodes for sterndrives are usually supplied as
complete kits, including the hardware to mount them. The zinc versions are
supplied without hardware. Note that the aluminum Gimbal Housing Headnuts
for the Mercury sterndrive (55989A) are supplied as a kit of TWO anodes with
seals. The zinc version (55989Z) is sold as a single anode.
Shaft and trim tab/rudder anodes are shipped as assembled units.
Only stainless hardware is used with Performance Metals anodes.
Performance Metals shaft anodes have retaining washer for the screws, to
prevent them falling out during assembly. This is particularly important to divers.
Performance Metals shaft anodes have copper contacts installed to ensure
good contact with the prop shaft.