DM Yourselves Digital Stretch Goals

Binding Decision Card

Below is the Binding Decision card.
Decision card. The idea of this card is that, after
reading the location boxed text in an adventure, instead of writing

your Binding Decision down

Decision down or saying it in your head (where it's so easy to
convince yourself "well, of course, I thought I'd check for traps" once you
read on and discover the room is full of them), you can use this card - just
turn it so that your planned action is pointing towards you. If you want to
do a multi-part Binding Decision you
Decision you can instead place a cube/counter on
each thing you want to do (but remember, the actions marked with a *
cost a 'tick' of time, which may have consequences).

On the reverse side of the card

car d is the basic Immersion Table (it's
Table (it's the most-
used table in DM Yourself , and I find it's always useful to have a reminder
of it whenever I'm DMing, even non-solo). Every time you get to a boxed
location text in the adventure (or start a new session, or simply feel a bit
disconnected from your character), roll a d6 and look up the result.
Detailed rules for using the Immersion Table can be found on pg. 19-24 of
DM Yourself . If you are stuck for inspiration, use the Extended Immersion
Tables on pg. 46-50 of DM Yourself .
 

Gameplay Loop Card

This is the Gameplay Loop card
Loop card – the front side is a cheat-sheet with the
basic DM Yourself  system
 system for navigating locations and encounters cut down
to the absolute minimum. You really need to read the book to see how
these steps work, but this card will act as a handy reminder. After y ou’ve
done a couple of adventures, it’ll be second nature. 

On the reverse of the card is DM Yourself ’s

’s Minimal DC Oracle. Oracles
aren’t needed much when you’re soloing published adventures, but if you
do find yourself needing an answer to a question and the adventure
doesn’t help then roll a d6 –  Minor factors that might influence the answer
dive Advantage or Disadvantage on the roll; Major factors give +1 or -1
depending on whether they make a positive result more or less likely.
Detailed rules for using the Oracle are on pg. 45-46 of DM Yourself . 

Tiny Battle Map/Story Mode Sheet

IMPORTANT : If you’re reading these rules to go with the physical sheet
supplied with the Kickstarter, be aware that its surface is gloss rather than
true dry-wipe laminate. In tests I’ve run on it, I could easily wipe off a dry-
wipe pen even after it had been left for a couple of weeks, but I suggest
you clean it sooner than that and laminate the sheet if it starts to discolour.
 

If you’re printing this yourself, t his should ideally be printed double-sided

(so the Battle Map and Story Mode sheet are back-to-back) and A5 size so
that the large grid lines on the battle map form a roughly 1-inch grid, and
then laminated so you can write on it with a dry-wipe pen. I like having a
solo setup that takes a minimal amount of table space, so I went with the
idea of having a battle map the same size as a copy of DM Yourself  –
 – it’s a
very portable setup! The Tiny Battle Map has
Map has areas for writing down
important information to speed up gameplay:

•  I use the space in the title bar to record the AC, HP, Attack Bonus
and Damage for the main attack
attac k of my PC and Sidekick (and I tend
to leave this on the map until those values change). I use the space
below to record those same
s ame values for the enemies (if an
a n enemy
gets injured, I write the current hp on the map next to the enemy).
I use space on the left-hand side under “INIT:” to record Initiative

order and rolls.

There are three ways of using the battle map:

•  It can be used like a ‘normal’ battle map for rooms up to 30x40ft in

size – just draw the room and place the miniatures.
•  It can be used as a ‘focussed’ battle map (apologies for the made-
up term!) for conflicts in bigger spaces. Usually when playing solo
using the DM Yourself  rules, you’ll only have a single PC and
Sidekick. This means that the actual melee area of the conflict is
usually quite small. The exact positions of characters outside that
area is unimportant – you only need to know how far away they are
so you know the range for ranged weapons, or the distance they
need to travel if they’re running towards
towa rds the melee. To represent
this, I place the mini just off the map with an arrow pointing to it
and the distance in feet. If they’re in cover I’ll also indicate that.  
•  Finally, you can use the map ‘zoomed out’, get rid of the minis
altogether (or get some 3D printed at half-scale!) and just use the
smaller  grid as 5’ squares, writing the positions of characters and
enemies on the map. Now you can represent a 60x80ft area, which
is big enough for most purposes.
 

Normal  mode
 mode – just draw the map and add miniatures … 
 

 
Focussed  mode
 mode – this is a forest, those strange black squiggles are trees,
obviously! The Wolves, dashing, will make it onto the map next turn, but
not quite into melee. The Goblin archers will move 20ft closer so as to be
in short range with their Shortbows.
 

 
 Zoomed Out  mode
 mode – the big squares are now 10ft, the small ones 5ft. We can
get rid of miniatures
mi niatures altogeth
altogether
er and just write positions on the map. For really
big maps you can combine this with Focussed  mode
 mode – enemies that are off the
map are marked at the margin along with their distance.
 

The Story Mode/Fast Combat Sheet  is

 is a just a convenient way of recording
encounters in that mode so you don’t have to print out a sheet each time.
Because Current Fails changes
Fails changes so regularly, I use cubes or counters to mark

them. It really helps if you have a fine

a fine-tipped
-tipped dry-wipe pen – you can use a
thicker one, but you’ll need to write small and abbreviate!