Canyon RR EN - 2018
Canyon RR EN - 2018
Canyon RR EN - 2018
CYCLING
MANUAL
ROAD BIKE
1 13
14
2
3 15
a
4
16
c
b 17
e
5 18
6
7 19
8 d 20
21
22
23
9 24
25
10
11
12
Your bicycle and this manual comply with the safety requirements of the EN ISO 4210-2 standard.
!
Attention!
! Assembly instructions page 12. Before your first ride read pages 4-11.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
COMPONENTS 2 Welcome 73 Mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes
4 Intended use 73 Brakes – how they work and what to
7 Before your first ride do about wear
10 Before every ride 74 Adjusting the brake lever reach
1 Frame: 13 Stem 12 Assembly from the BikeGuard 74 Checking and readjusting in the case of
a Top tube 14 Handlebars 34 Packing your Canyon road bike mechanical disc brakes
b Down tube 15 Brake/shift lever 35 How to use quick-releases and thru axles 75 Checking and readjusting in the case of
c Seat tube 16 Headset 35 How to securely mount the wheel with hydraulic disc brakes
d Chainstay 17 Front brake quick-releases 77 The gears
e Rear stay 18 Fork 37 How to securely mount the wheel with thru axles 78 The gears - How they work and how to use them
19 Drop-out 38 What to bear in mind when adding components 80 Checking and readjusting the gears
2 Saddle or making changes 80 Rear derailleur
3 Seat post Wheel: 39 Special characteristics of carbon 81 Adjustment of limit stops
4 Seat post clamp 20 Quick-release/thru axle 40 Special features of carbon wheels 83 Front derailleur
5 Rear brake 21 Rim 41 Care instructions 84 Shimano Di2
6 Cassette sprockets 22 Spoke 42 Special features of triathlon, track bikes and 86 Chain maintenance
7 Front derailleur 23 Tyre time trial machines 87 Chain wear
8 Rear derailleur 24 Hub 44 After an accident 88 Adjusting the chain tension of single speed
9 Chain 25 Valve 46 Framesets – assembly technical data bicycles
10 Chainring 51 Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider 89 The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pressure
11 Crank set 52 Adjusting the saddle to the correct height 92 Rim trueness, spoke tension
12 Pedal 54 Adjusting the height of the handlebars 93 Repairing punctures
55 Aheadset®-stems or threadless system 93 Wheel removal
57 I-lock system 94 Removing clincher and folding tyres
59 Fore-to-aft-position and saddle tilt 95 Mounting clincher and folding tyres
60 Adjusting saddle position and tilt 97 Removing tubular tyres
63 Handlebars and brake lever adjustment 97 Mounting tubular tyres
63 Adjusting the handlebar position by turning 101 Mounting wheels
the handlebar 102 The headset
65 Adjusting the brake lever reach 102 Checking and readjusting
66 The pedal systems 103 Threadless headset: Aheadset®
66 Different systems at a glance – how they work 104 I-lock headset
GENERAL NOTES ON THIS MANUAL 68 Adjustment and maintenance 106 Transport of your Canyon bike
69 The brake system 108 General notes on care and inspection
PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE FOLLOWING SYMBOLS: 70 Road bike rim brakes 108 Washing and cleaning your Canyon
70 Brakes – how they work and what to do 110 Safekeeping and storing your Canyon
Please note that the aforementioned consequences about wear 111 Servicing and inspection
This symbol warns you about actions that
! could lead to damage to property or the en-
will not be repeated each time the symbols appear in 71 Checking and readjusting road bike brakes 115 Recommended tightening torques
the manual. 71 Checking the brake system 118 Legal requirements for riding on public roads
vironment.
71 Vertical adjustment of the brake pads 119 Warranty
72 Readjusting and synchronising the side-pull 121 Guarantee
This symbol signifies information about brakes 122 Crash Replacement
i
This symbol indicates an imminent risk to how to handle the product or refers to a
your life or health unless you comply with passage in the operating instructions that de-
the instructions given or take preventive measures. serves your special attention.
2 WELCOME WELCOME 3
DEAR CANYON CUSTOMER, Note that the instructions and tips may require fur- Always keep in mind that you have no protection
ther explanation depending on various factors, such technique around you, which could avoid injuries,
In this manual we have compiled for you lots of tips as the experience and skills of the person doing the such as e.g. the bodywork or the airbag of a car.
on how to use your Canyon road bike, instructions for work or the tools being used, and some jobs may re-
maintenance and care, plus a wealth of things worth quire additional (special) tools or measures not de- Therefore, always ride carefully and respect the other
knowing on bicycle technology. Please read this man- scribed in the manual. traffic participants. Never ride under the influence of
ual thoroughly. drugs, medication, alcohol or when you are tired. Do
Furthermore, you will find plenty of service informa- not ride with a second person on your bike and never
You will find it worth your while; even if you have cy- tion on our website www.canyon.com that will help ride without having your hands on the handlebars.
cled all your life and feel like a veteran with your new you carry out small repair and maintenance works. Always with helmet and glasses
bike. Bicycle technology has developed tremendously For your own safety, never do work on your bicycle Before you set off please note: Always ride carefully
over the past few years. unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in so as not to endanger yourself or others. Please re-
doubt or if you have any questions, please contact spect nature when touring through forests and mead-
For your enjoyment and safety when cycling, please our service hotline +44 (0) 208 5496001! ows. Make it a habit to only ride with appropriate
read the complete first part of this manual thoroughly equipment. At least you should wear a properly ad-
and Please note: This manual cannot teach you all me- justed bike helmet, sturdy shoes and suitable, bright
strictly follow the assembly instructions given in chanical skills. Even a manual as big as an encyclo- coloured clothing.
chapter “Assembly from the BikeGuard“. paedia could not describe every possible combination
read chapter “Before your first ride“ and of available bicycles and components. For this reason Your Canyon team wishes you lots of fun and enjoy-
this manual focuses on your newly purchased bike ment with your bike!
see chapter “Intended use“ to read up on how to and standard components by drawing your attention
use your new road bike and on the permitted overall to important notes and warnings. It does, however, On delivery of the bike, the manufacturer has to attach
weight (rider, clothing and luggage) and not teach you the basic skills of a bike mechanic or additional manuals. Please visit www.canyon.com for
carry out the minimum functional check before help you assemble a complete bike from the Canyon supplementary manuals.
every ride. For more details on how to proceed, read frameset.
chapter “Before every ride“ of this manual. Do not
ride your bike unless it has passed the functional This manual cannot teach you how to ride. For this
Editor: This manual does not help you to assemble
check one hundred per cent! reason it focuses on your newly purchased bike by i
drawing your attention to the most important notes Canyon Bicycles GmbH a bicycle from individual parts or to repair
On the digital data medium enclosed with this manual and warnings. This manual cannot teach you riding a Karl-Tesche-Straße 12 it! Technical details in the text and illustrations of
you will find a number of maintenance and repair rou- bike or make you familiar with the traffic rules. D-56073 Koblenz this manual are subject to change. This manual
tines in detail. When carrying out these routines, be complies with the requirements of the EN ISO
aware that the instructions and information provided Please be aware that cycling is a hazardous activity Service hotline: +44 (0) 208 5496001 4210-2 standard. This manual is subject to Euro-
in your manual only refer to this Canyon road bike and that requires that the rider stays in control of his or Order fax: +49 (0)261 40400-50 pean legislation.
that they do not necessarily apply to other bikes. Due her bike at all times. E-mail: uk@canyon.com
to numerous designs and model changes, it may be Please visit our website at
Concept, text, photos and graphic design: i
that some of the routines are not described in every Like any sport, cycling involves risk of injury and www.canyon.com. There you will find the
detail. For this reason be sure also to observe the damage. By choosing to ride a bike, you assume the Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik latest news, useful tips as well as the addresses
operating instructions of our component suppliers responsibility for the risk. und -Sicherheit GmbH of our distribution partners.
enclosed with the BikeGuard. www.zedler.de
Revised in July 2017, edition 10
For your own safety, never do any assem-
! bly or adjusting work on your bike, unless
© No part of this brochure may be published, reprint-
you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are unsure
ed, translated or reproduced in extracts or with elec-
about anything, please call our service hotline
tronical systems or used for other business purposes
+44 (0) 208 5496001. E-mail: uk@canyon.com
without prior written permission of the author.
4 INTENDED USE INTENDED USE 5
The frame of your bike is marked according to one of the following symbols indicating the category your bike
belongs to. If you are not sure about the category your bike belongs to, please contact our service centre. Condition 3
Bikes of this category comprise the bicycles of the
categories 1 and 2 and are in addition suitable for
rough and unpaved terrains. Sporadic jumps of a
maximum height of approx. 60 cm are also included
Condition 1 in the field of use of these bicycles. But inexperienced
Bikes of this category are designed for riding on riders doing jumps of this height may land inappropri-
hard-surface roads where the wheels remain in ately, thus increasing the acting forces significantly
permanent contact to the ground. These are in gen- which may result in damage and injuries. This cate-
eral road racing bicycles with racing handlebars or gory is represented by MTB hardtails and full suspen-
straight handlebars, triathlon or time trial bicycles. sion bicycles with short suspension travel.
The permissible maximum overall weight comprising
rider, luggage and bicycle should not exceed 120 kg.
Under certain circumstances this permissible maxi-
mum weight can be further limited by the component Condition 4
manufacturers’ recommendations for use. This category includes bikes of the categories 1 to 3.
Proven cyclocross bikes with racing handlebars and In addition, bicycles of this category are suitable
cantilever or disc brakes are a special case in this for very rough and partly blocked terrain with steep
category. In addition, these bikes are also suitable slopes and higher speeds as a result thereof. Reg-
for gravel paths and off-road trails where a short loss ular, moderate jumps by experienced riders are no
of tyre contact with the ground due to small stairs or problem for these bicycles. The regular and dura-
steps at a height of 15 to 20 cm can occur. ble use of the bicycles on North Shore trails and in
bike parks should, however, be excluded. Due to the
higher stresses, these bicycles should be checked
for possible damage after every ride. Full suspension
bikes with medium suspension travel are typical for
this category.
6 INTENDED USE BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE 7
Condition 5
This type of use stands for very challenging, highly BEFORE YOUR
blocked and extremely steep terrains, which can
only be mastered by well-trained riders with techni- FIRST RIDE
cal skills. Rather high jumps at very high speeds as
well as the intensive use of specific, identified bike 1. Have you ever ridden a road, time trial, triathlon or
parks or downhill trails are typical for this category. track bicycle? Please note that these are sports
In the case of these bicycles it must be considered bikes. You need to get used to them and to prac-
that a thorough check for possible damage is carried tise on them. Make yourself gradually familiar
out after every ride. Preliminary damage with clearly with your new bike in an unfrequented area and
Full braking; do not imitate
inferior further stress can result in failure. A regular approach the riding characteristics step by step.
replacement of safety-relevant components should Attend a riding technique course. For more infor-
also be taken into account. Wearing special protec- mation visit www.canyon.com
tors is strongly recommended. Full suspension bikes Note that the assignment of brake lever to
with long suspension travel as well as dirt bikes are 2. Are you familiar with the brake system? Canyon brake caliper can vary from country to
typical for this category. bikes are normally delivered with the left brake le- country. Check the brake assignment. If it does
ver operating the front brake. Check whether the not comply with your habits, we recommend you
lever of the front brake is in the position you are having an expert change the lever-to-brake as-
used to. If it is not, you will need to train to get used signment!
to the new configuration, as inadvertent use of the
front brake can throw you off your bike! Have the
lever-to-brake assignment changed by an expert.
4. Are frame size, saddle and handlebars properly ad- 6. Note that you should only use your Canyon for its in-
justed? Stand over the top tube of your bike and tended purpose! Road and triathlon bikes are only
check whether there is a clearance of 2 to 3 fin- intended for use on roads and lanes with a smooth,
gers at least between the top tube and your crotch. e.g. tarred or paved surface.
If there is not, contact our service hotline at
+44 (0) 208 5496001. Riding with a too big frame Cyclocross and gravel bikes are also suitable for
may cause injuries, when getting off your bike gravel paths and off-road trails where a short loss
quickly! The saddle should be set to a height from of tyre contact with the ground due to small stairs
which you can just reach the pedal in its lowest or steps of a height of 15 to 20 cm can occur.
position with your heel. Check whether your toes Checking the clearance between top tube and crotch
reach to the floor when you are sitting on the sad- Track bicycles are true-bred sports bikes and only
dle. For more information about the saddle posi- intended for use on enclosed race tracks. The use Canyon race machines are designed for riding on tarred roads
tion, read chapter “Adjusting the Canyon road bike of track bicycles on public roads or lanes is not
to the rider”. permitted.
5. Have you ever tried clipless or step-in pedals and In general, Canyon road bikes are designed for a
the shoes they go with? Before riding with clipless permissible overall weight (rider, luggage and bi-
pedals for the first time, carefully practise locking cycle together) of 120 kg. In the case of road bikes
one shoe onto a pedal and disengaging it while the equipped with Mavic system wheels the permis-
bike is stationary. Lean against a wall when prac- sible overall weight is 100 kg. Make sure not to
tising so that you do not topple over. Adjust the exceed these limit values. For more information
locking and release mechanism, if necessary. Be about the use, read chapter “Intended use”.
Shoes for step-in pedals
sure first to read the enclosed operating instruc-
tions which you will find enclosed. For more infor- 7. Are parts of your Canyon bike made of carbon? Track bike V-Drome
mation about the pedals, read chapter “The pedal Please note that this material requires special care
systems”. and particular use. In any case, be sure to read
chapter “Special characteristics of carbon”.
Step-in pedal
Carbon
BEFORE EVERY RIDE 4. If you intend to ride on public roads or in the dark,
check the lighting set, see chapter “Legal require-
ments”.
CHECK THE FOLLOWING POINTS BEFORE EVERY
RIDE: 5. Let your Canyon bounce on the ground from a
small height. If there is any rattling, see where it
1. Are the quick-release levers of the front and rear comes from. Check the bearings and bolted con-
wheel, seat post and other components properly nections, if necessary.
closed? For more information, read chapter “How
to use quick-releases and thru axles”. 6. The major accessory for a successful cycling tour Never ride without lighting in the dark
is a small tool bag fitted underneath the saddle.
2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers,
sufficient pressure? Spin the wheels to check the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube,
whether the rims are true. Also look out for tyres a tyre repair kit, your mobile phone and a little
with ruptured sides or broken axles or spokes cash. Do not forget a tyre pump mounted to the
while you do this. For more information, read chap- frame.
ter “The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pres-
sure”. 7. Take a sturdy lock with you, if you intend to leave
your Canyon in a public area. The only way to pro-
3. Test the brakes while standing by firmly pulling the tect your Canyon against theft in a public area is to
brake levers towards the handlebars. A pressure lock it to an immovable object! Emergency kit
point should be reached after the lever has only
travelled a short distance; the lever must, however, Check the tyre pressure
not touch the handlebars! The brake pads of rim
brakes must hit the rim with their entire surface.
They must not touch the tyres. For more informa-
tion about the brakes, read chapter “The brake sys-
tem“.
ASSEMBLY FROM THE CHECKING THE CONTENTS OF THE BIKEGUARD GENERAL INFORMATION ON ROAD BIKE ASSEMBLY USING THE CANYON TORQUE WRENCH
For the assembly of your new Canyon bike you need Exceeding the maximum torque at the clamping bolts
the following tools supplied in the toolcase: (e.g. at the stem, steerer tube, handlebars or seat
Canyon torque wrench incl. bits (1) post) leads to an excessively high clamping force.
optional: specific Canyon torque wrench for seat This can cause the component to fail and hence there
First, open the BikeGuard. post fixing (2) is a high associated risk of accidents. In addition, the
Canyon assembly paste (3) product guarantee would be null and void in such a
To do this, only use a box cutter or a similar knife with case. Screws or bolts that are too loose or are done
a very short blade. Never use any kind of knife on the up too tightly can cause a failure and hence lead to an
bicycle itself. accident. Always follow exactly the tightening torque
Share the pleasure that your new Canyon details from Canyon.
i brings and ask a helper to assist you in un- !
Do not clamp a frame tube or a carbon seat
post of your Canyon in the holding jaws of
packing it from the BikeGuard and in assembling it. the workstand! Be sure to only use a suitable alu-
When using a box cutter make sure nei- minium seat post for clamping. It is best to use a
therto damage the component nor to hurt The easiest and safest way to assemble workstand that holds the frame from inside at Assemble your Canyon using the Canyon
yourself. Make it a rule to cut away from you and i the bike is when you use a workstand or three points or else ask someone to help while you i torque wrench enclosed with the Bike-
the component! ask someone to help you. assemble your bike. Guard.
14 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 15
Put the matching bit into the holder of the Canyon Carbon fibre components are particularly vulnera- It also retains its effectiveness in wet conditions and Remove the protective cardboard at one end and the
torque wrench. ble to damage caused by excessive clamping force. provides maximum protection against corrosion. box with small parts.
Canyon assembly paste creates extra friction be- Canyon assembly paste can be used for all carbon
Insert the Allen key fully into the screw head. tween two surfaces, allowing the necessary tighten- and aluminium connections. It’s ideal for this pur- Take out the cardboard box with the front wheel
ing torque to be reduced by up to 30 %. pose, as it does not harden. stowed in parallel to the bike frame in the BikeGuard.
The front wheel may be packed additionally in a wheel
bag.
Slowly turn the handle of the Canyon torque wrench. This is especially useful in the clamping areas of
Once the bolt is getting tight, the pointer moves over handlebars and stem, steerer tube and stem and
the scale. Stop the turning movement as soon as the seat post and seat tube, i.e. three areas where too Prior to applying Canyon assembly paste, remove dirt Please note that the saddle and the seat post are
pointer reaches the number for the specified torque. much clamping force can damage either component, particles and lubricant residues from the surfaces to fixed to the front wheel. Put the cardboard box care-
causing component failure or voiding the warranty. be treated. Apply a thin and even film of Canyon as- fully aside.
By reducing the clamping force, Canyon assembly sembly paste to the cleaned surfaces using a brush
paste relieves stress on sensitive carbon surfaces, or a chamois.
preventing damage to fibres or the cracking of the
carbon substructure. Mount the components, as specified. Use the Canyon
torque wrench and never exceed the prescribed max- Keep the entire packaging material as well
imum tightening torque! Remove excessive Canyon i as the BikeGuard in a dry place. If you in-
Make sure to only use the specific Canyon
i assembly paste and re-seal the small sachet after tend to ship your Canyon or to take it with you on
torque wrench supplied to fix the seat post use.
of the Ultimate CF SLX, Ultimate CF SL, Endurace a trip, you will have everything at hand.
CF SL and SLX and Inflite CF SLX models (from
model year 2018 on). It works like the general You will not find the wheels packed in
torque wrench.
i wheel bags in every BikeGuard.
16 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 17
Canyon road bikes are delivered with different sys- Some road bike models with larger frame sizes are Read up on road bike brakes in the chapter
i
tems. delivered with the rear wheel dismounted. “The brake system“.
Put the matching bit into the holder of the Canyon Put the matching bit into the holder of the Canyon
torque wrench. Start by tightening slightly the clamp- torque wrench. Release the clamping bolts of the
ing bolts of the stem evenly. Make sure the clamping stem face plate and remove the face plate.
slot is even in width. Finish by tightening the bolts to
Loosen the bolt on top of the stem and remove it the marked torque value (5 Nm). Open the Canyon assembly paste. Squeeze out some
together with the cap. Open the Canyon assembly assembly paste and apply a thin layer of Canyon car- Retighten the clamping bolts of the faceplate evenly
paste. Squeeze out some assembly paste and apply MOUNTING THE HANDLEBARS bon assembly paste on the inner side of the faceplate in a cross pattern until they lightly hold the handle-
a thin layer of Canyon carbon assembly paste on the Keep hold of the handlebars and undo the band with as well as in the clamping area of the stem body. bars in place.
inner side of the stem clamp as well as in the clamp- Velcro fastener on the top at the stem fixing the han-
ing area of the fork steerer tube. dlebars. Position the handlebars by means of the marking Make sure the upper and lower clamping slots be-
accurately centred in the stem clamp. Make sure tween faceplate and stem body are parallel and iden-
Slide the handlebar-stem-combination on the fork Keep hold of the handlebars to prevent them from the bowden cables and the lines are not twisted or tical in width. Release the clamping bolts once again,
steerer tube. Make sure the bowden cables and the twisting, dropping and getting damaged. Undo the bent, but run in a smooth curve to the cable stops or if necessary, and re-tighten them slightly and evenly.
lines are not twisted or bent, but run in a smooth band with Velcro fastener fixing the handlebars in the brakes.
curve to the cable stops or brakes. bottom area to the fork.
20 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 21
Verify that the upper grip areas of the shift/brake le- Remove the front wheel from the protective card- Make sure there is one spring on either side of the Remove the protective film from the shift/brake le-
vers are in horizontal position. The ends of the drops board and from the wheel bag, if available. hub. When mounting the springs on either side of the vers.
are then in parallel to the ground or point slightly quick-release, make sure their small-diameter ends
downwards. Saddle and seat post are fixed to the front wheel with face the hub. Open the front brake by releasing the release lever at
a band with Velcro fastener and protective film. Care- the brake (Shimano, SRAM) or by displacing the pin
fully undo the band and put the saddle and the seat The quick-release lever is mounted to the left side, in the shifter/brake lever (Campagnolo) to allow the
post aside. i.e. opposite the chain drive. lever to tilt back a little.
Finish by tightening the bolts evenly and in a cross Take the quick-release for the front wheel out of the Tighten the counternut of the quick-release by no Mount the front wheel by sliding the hub together
pattern to the marked tightening torque. small parts box. Release the counternut and remove more than two full turns. Read up on quick-releases with the quick-release into the drop-outs.
one of the springs from the quick-release. in chapter “How to use quick-releases and thru axles”
in your bicycle manual road bike; also observe the Make sure the rim including front wheel tyre is accu-
Insert the quick-release into the hollow front wheel instructions of the component manufacturer on the rately centred in the fork blades.
axle. enclosed CD.
Read beforehand chapter “How to use quick-releases
and thru axles” in your bicycle manual road bike and
on the enclosed CD.
22 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 23
Take the thru axle for the front wheel out of the small
Tighten up the counternut with the quick-release le- Verify that the brake is accurately centred with re- After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-re- parts box.
ver open until the quick-release lever builds up force gard to the rim. lease pull the brake lever (several times, if you have
when closed. Make sure the closed lever is close to disc brakes). Check the braking response of both Put the wheel into the fork and mount the rotor at the
the fork and does not stand out to the side or the You can find further information in chapter “The brakes. It must be reached after the same travel and same time into the brake calliper, if necessary.
front. brake system” in your bicycle manual road bike on the be stable at once.
enclosed CD.
Re-close the release lever of the brake (Shimano, Spin both wheels to make sure they run true. Bring the front wheel into the right position between
SRAM) immediately or move the bolt at the shift/ Check whether the front wheel is properly seated in the drop-outs and slide the thru axle with open
brake lever back to its original position (Campagnolo) the drop-outs and whether it runs accurately in the quick-release lever from the left side through the
You can find further information in chapter “The
with the brake lever slightly activated. centre between the fork arms. drop-out and the hub.
wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air pressure” in your
bicycle manual road bike on the enclosed CD.
Improperly mounted wheels may throw you
off your bicycle or result in serious acci-
dents! If you have the slightest doubt or in case of
Do not pull the (disc) brake lever with a any inquiries, contact our service hotline at
! removed wheel and make sure to mount +44 (0) 208 5496001.
For more information on road bike brakes
the safety locks when removing the wheel. i read chapter “The brake system” in your
bicycle manual road bike on the enclosed CD.
Manufacturers of thru-axle systems deliv-
You can find more on mounting in chapter After the wheel mounting do a brake test i er their products usually with detailed op-
i “The wheels - tyres, inner tubes and air Check whether the brake pads hit the when stationary. Actuating the brake lever erating instructions. Read them carefully before
pressure” in your bicycle manual road bike on the braking surfaces of the rims with their en- should generate a clear-cut braking response be- removing the wheel or doing any maintenance
enclosed CD. tire surface. fore the lever touches the handlebars. work.
24 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 25
Once you have reached the opposite side turn the Open the RWS quick-release lever a little to bring it
thru axle clockwise into the nut on the right side. Do into a favourable position. Turn the RWS quick-re- Check the proper functioning of the gears. Remove the protective cap from the top end of the
not apply force, but make sure the axle thread engag- lease lever then into the desired position and re-close seat tube. Release the seat post binder bolt at the
es properly with the nut on the other side. it towards the hub. seat tube. Read beforehand chapter “Adjusting the
You can find further information on adjusting the
gears in chapter “The gears” in your bicycle manual Canyon road bike to the rider” in your bicycle manual
During the first turn you should be able to turn the In the case of the RWS quick-release lever
RWS quick-release lever of the thru axle nearly i (Ratchet Wheelmounting System) the
road bike on the enclosed CD. road bike and on the enclosed CD.
without resistance. If everything fits, turn the RWS clamping force is built up by tightening with a le-
quick-release lever all in all two and a half turns ver, as it is done in the case of a bolt. After that the
clockwise to pre-tighten the RWS system. lever can be brought in any possible position by
axially pulling it away and turning it.
Shift through all gears and make sure the rear derail- You should be able to insert the seat post easily into
leur does not collide with the spokes when the chain the frame without pressing or turning. If you are not,
runs on the largest sprocket. loosen the seat post binder bolt a little more.
You will feel an increasing resistance at the lever. To remove the lever take hold of the lever and pull it
Only turn the axle until it is hand-tight. out by applying little force. Keep hold of the fork with
Pull the seat post out again. Apply a little Canyon
one hand. Pull the quick-release lever forcefully with
assembly paste to the bottom part of the seat post
Make sure the RWS quick-release lever does not the other hand until it can be removed.
and inside the seat tube or in the clamping area of
stand out to the front.
the seat post.
Actuate the brake lever several times to make the
Do not exceed the maximum torque values! brake work. There must be a pressure point after After the wheel mounting do a brake test
i maximum one third of the lever travel. Lift the wheel
You will find the prescribed values in chap- when stationary. You should reach the
ter “Recommended tightening torques”, directly and give it a strong tap from above. The wheel must pressure point of the brake before the brake lever
on the components and/or in the manuals of the be securely fixed and must not rattle. reaches the handlebars. In the case of hydraulic
manufacturers of the thru-axle systems, e.g. brakes pump them, if necessary, until you reach a
DTSwiss. precise pressure point.
26 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 27
Slide the seat post into the seat tube to the desired Remove the protective film from the saddle, if avail- Remove the protection cap or the rubber plug from Slide the seat post into the seat tube to the desired
saddle height. able. the seat tube in the area where the rear stays meet saddle height. Your seat post must go into the frame
the tube. Release the seat post binder bolt at the seat as a minimum to as far as underneath the top tube
Never ride your Canyon if the MAX marking tube by a few turns without unscrewing it entirely. and up to the MAX marking of the seat post. The seat
of the seat post is visible. post must be clamped in the area marked on the seat
You should be able to insert the seat post easily into post. Bring the saddle including seat post in the de-
the frame without pressing or turning. If you are not, sired position and slightly tighten the bolt of the seat
loosen the seat post binder bolt a little more. tube clamping by using the Canyon torque wrench.
Bring the saddle into alignment and do not overtight- Pull the seat post out again. Apply a little Canyon Be sure to use the torque wrench supplied and tight-
Be sure to read the notes given in chapter
en the seat post binder bolt, i.e. do not exceed the ! “Adjusting the saddle to the correct height” assembly paste to the bottom part of the seat post en to the necessary torque value. Do not exceed the
permissible maximum torque. Use the Canyon torque as well as the permitted torques in chapter “Gen- and inside the seat tube or in the clamping area of maximum permissible torque of 5 Nm. Check the tight
wrench. eral notes on care and inspection” in your bicycle the seat post. fit of the seat post in the frame by taking hold of the
manual road bike and on the enclosed CD and saddle at both ends and trying to turn it. Remount the
also follow the operating instructions of the com- Never apply any grease or oil to clamping rubber plug on the head of the Allen bolt in the seat
ponent manufacturer. areas made of carbon! tube.
Measure the saddle height of your previ- The Canyon Perfect Position System Measure the saddle height of your previ-
i i (PPS) offers you the possibility to select i
ous bicycle from the middle of the bottom ous bicycle from the middle of the bottom Before adjusting the saddle height accu-
bracket up to the top edge of the saddle in the your Canyon perfectly tuned to your body without bracket up to the top edge of the saddle in the
i rately, read chapter “Adjusting the Canyon
middle of the saddle. Then transfer the saddle a test ride. For more details on the PPS visit our middle of the saddle. Then transfer the saddle road bike to the rider” in your bicycle manual road
height to your new Canyon. website at www.canyon.com height to your new Canyon. bike and on the enclosed CD.
28 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 29
All Canyon models with integrated clamping (e.g. Apply a little Canyon assembly paste on the bottom Canyon road bikes can be fitted with standard race Apply a thin layer of standard assembly grease on the
Speedmax CF) have an aerodynamically shaped seat part of the seat post and inside the seat tube. Slide pedals of the major brands. pedal threads before screwing in the pedals.
post. Mounting another seat post than the standard the seat post into the seat tube to the desired saddle
one is therefore impossible. height.
Your seat post must go into the frame as a minimum
Lift the frame cover a little in the rear in direction of to as far as underneath the top tube and up to the
motion and remove it from the guide at the front. MAX marking of the seat post. The seat post must be
clamped in the area marked on the seat post.
Put your finger inside the seat tube, apply pressure Tighten the Allen bolt of the seat post clamp to the Screw each pedal manually into the thread of its
Before mounting the pedals, check the marking on
on the clamping mechanism and unscrew the upper prescribed torque of 4 Nm up to a maximum of 6 Nm. the pedal axles first. “R” stands for right pedal and crank by two to three full turns.
screw a little. Stop unscrewing until the upper part “L” for left pedal.
of the clamping is flush with the upper edge of the Slide the frame cover with the holding clamp from Continue by using a pedal spanner to tighten the ped-
top tube or standing higher by a maximum of one mil- the front on the frame and remount it cautiously with Note that the left pedal has a left-handed thread that als firmly. Some pedal types have to be tightened with
limetre. a click in the rear. The cover must be flush with the has to be tightened contrary to the direction you are an Allen key.
frame. accustomed to, i.e. anticlockwise.
ADD-ON PARTS MAKING YOUR CANYON FIT FOR PUB- CHECKING AND ADJUSTING
LIC ROADS
Inflate both tyres to the maximum pressure indicated Verify that the upper grip areas of the shift/brake le- In the case of Canyon stems the upper clamping slot
Fix the white reflector to the handlebars and the red on the side of the tyres. You can find more informa- vers are in horizontal position. Align the ends of the is completely closed, the slot on the bottom side is
reflector to the seat post, the spoke reflectors as well tion on tyres and inner tubes in chapter “The wheels drops at the same angle as the top tube. visible.
as a bell. - tyres, inner tubes and air pressure” in your bicycle
manual road bike on the enclosed CD. Use the Canyon torque wrench and finish by tighten-
ing the clamping bolts. Do not exceed the maximum
tightening torques!
Finish by mounting the spoke reflectors. Make sure Adjust the position of the saddle and the handlebars, Make sure that in the case of the general Ahead- Check whether the saddle is in horizontal position,
you mount two reflectors opposite of each other to as described in chapter ”Adjusting the Canyon road set®-stems with faceplate the upper and lower when the bike is standing on a level ground.
the spokes of the front wheel and two reflectors op- bike to the rider” in your bicycle manual road bike. clamping slots between faceplate and stem body are
posite of each other to the spokes of the rear wheel. parallel and identical in width. Release the clamping
bolts, if necessary, and re-tighten them slightly and
evenly.
Your seat post must go into the frame as a minimum Check the proper functioning of the gears. Ask some- Check the tight fit of the seat post. Try to turn the
to as far as underneath the top tube and up to the body to lift the bicycle by the saddle and gently shift components.
MAX marking of the seat post. through all the gears.
In its end position the lever should be parallel to the HOW TO SECURELY MOUNT THE WHEEL WITH THRU
bike, i.e. it should not stick out to the side. The le- AXLES
ver must lie close to the frame so that it cannot be
opened accidentally. The RWS system from DT Swiss for road racing bikes
To check whether the lever is securely locked try to includes thru axles which provide the forks and the
turn it while it is closed. rear frames with a higher stiffness. Whenever your
If you can turn the lever around, the wheel is not se- road bike is exposed to high loads, it remains direc-
curely fastened. Open the lever again and screw the tionally stable.
tightening nut clockwise by half a turn to increase
the initial tension. For detailed information on how to mount a front
To check whether the lever is securely locked try to turn it while it RWS system from DT Swiss for road bikes
Close the lever again and check it again for tight- wheel with RWS system from DT Swiss, read chapter
is closed
ness. If the lever can no longer be turned, it is prop- “Assembly from the BikeGuard“ further above in this
erly fastened. manual.
Finally lift the bike a few centimetres from the
ground so that the wheel is suspended and hit The rear wheel is mounted in the same way.
the tyre from above. If it is properly fastened, the
wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the To remove the wheel put the thru-axle lever into the
frame. axle. Make sure that the thru-axle lever (with pentag-
onal pin) is accurately in the axle.
If your seat post is equipped with a quick-release
mechanism, check whether the saddle is firmly fixed Turn the thru-axle lever anticlockwise. Release the
by trying to twist it relative to the frame. thru axle completely by about two and a half turns,
The quick-release lever ought to be nearly parallel to the wheel and
hold the wheel in its position and remove the axle Rear wheel thru axle
must not stick out from the hub.
Handlebars, stems and forks should only be replaced Carbon components that have been subjected to
Components that come loose or break off Most clamps of bike carrier systems are
by a skilled mechanic. Be sure to follow the operat- as a result of improper mounting can
overstress are therefore liable to fail during use, pos- i
potential sources of damage to large-di-
ing of the accessory manufacturer in any case. When sibly causing an accident with unforeseeable conse-
cause serious accidents. Safety relevant bolts ameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon
mounting other components and accessories, it is quences. If you have had a critical incident with your
must be tightened to their specified torques. frames may suddenly fail during use. Suitable,
your responsibility to mount the components appro- bike, we advise you to have the relevant component
special-purpose models are available in the car
priately. Bring your Canyon to our service workshop, inspected by our service workshop, or better still, the
accessory trade.
if you have the slightest doubt. In case of any questions regarding com- whole Canyon.
i
ponent assembly, compatibility or if you
want to make any changes, read the more de- Always park your Canyon carefully and make sure it Make sure the maximum overall weight of
does not topple over. Carbon frames and parts may i
tailed chapter of the manual further below or on rider, luggage (rucksack) and bicycle does
the enclosed CD or contact our service hotline at already sustain damage by simply toppling over. not exceed 100 kg. Carbon wheels are generally
+44 (0) 208 5496001. not approved for trailer towing!
40 CARBON CARBON 41
As carbon wheels are made of carbon fibre reinforced Components made of carbon reinforced fibre should
plastic they come with particular aerodynamic prop- be cleaned with a soft rag and clear water, to which
erties and low weight. a little dish liquid may be added, if necessary. Tough
stains of oil or grease can be removed with a petro-
WHAT TO BEAR IN MIND WHEN BRAKING WITH CAR- leum-based cleaning agent. Never use degreasing
BON WHEELS agents containing acetone, trichloroethlyene, methyl
chloride etc., solvents or non-neutral, chemical or
As the braking surfaces are made of carbon, there are solvent-containing cleaning agents that could attack
the surface! Use car wax to protect the surface
some things to keep in mind. Only use brake pads that
are suitable for carbon wheels. We recommend that Wheels with carbon rims have a particular brake behaviour
You can use car wax to protect the surface and make
you always use the brake pads of the wheel manu-
it shine. Polishing agents or varnish cleaner contain
facturer! solid constituents that might attack the surface.
Shimano and Campagnolo offer carbon brake pads, Keep the braking surfaces of carbon wheels free of
as well. These are, however, designed to match maintenance agents and lubricants!
Shimano and Campagnolo rims. Carbon brake pads
usually wear down faster than conventional brake
pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the
rims needs getting used to, in particular in wet con-
ditions. Therefore, test your brakes in a place free of
Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post
! in the holding jaws of a workstand! The
traffic until you have full control of your bicycle.
Special pads protect carbon from damage
parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (alu-
The brake surfaces of the carbon rims are sensitive to Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post
minium) seat post instead and use this to clamp
heat. Therefore, when you are riding in the mountains,
the frame, or use a workstand that holds the ! in the holding jaws of a workstand! The
avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill e.g. with a parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (alu-
frame at three points inside the frame triangle or
permanently activated rear wheel brake may heat up minium) seat post instead and use this to clamp
that clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell.
the material and result in a deformation. The rim may the frame, or use a work stand that holds the Avoid greasing carbon components, in
! general. Grease would penetrate the sur-
sustain damage and the inner tube may burst, thus frame at three points inside the frame triangle or
causing an accident. Always use both brakes simul- Check the condition of the brakes and
taneously and release them intermittently to allow the i that clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell. face of the carbon material, reducing the coeffi-
make sure you only ride with brake pads
material to cool off. cient of friction and hence impairing the stability
that are suitable for carbon rims!
Depending on the respective usage, light- of the clamping joint when tightened within the
weight components made of carbon may permissible torque range. Once greased carbon
Check the condition of the brake pads at wear down faster. We therefore strongly recom- fibre may never ever be fixed in a secure and safe
short intervals, as they might wear down mend that you follow the service intervals and way again!
faster than with aluminium rims. have lightweight components checked and possi-
bly replaced regularly by our service workshop Check your carbon component regularly,
Note that your bike’s braking power is and/or other specialist workshops. e.g. when cleaning your bike, for external
greatly reduced in wet conditions. Do not damage, such as notches, cracks, dents, discol-
go for a ride, when it is about to rain or in wet con- Protect the exposed areas of your carbon ourations etc. If the cloth gets caught on some-
ditions. Nevertheless, if you will find yourself with ! frame (e.g. the underside of the down thing, this area must be examined. Stop using
your Canyon on a wet or moist road, ride particu- tube) with special pads against rubbing cables or your Canyon. Contact immediately our service
larly carefully and at clearly reduced speed. stone chips. hotline at +44 (0) 208 5496001.
42 SPECIAL FEATURES OF TRIATHLON, TRACK BIKES AND TIME TRIAL MACHINES SPECIAL FEATURES OF TRIATHLON, TRACK BIKES AND TIME TRIAL MACHINES 43
AFTER AN ACCIDENT 4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top
tube or the bottom bracket shell as a reference.
Canyon offers the high-quality carbon and alumini- Mount all components onto the frame by using high-
um frames as bare frames for individual fitting with grade assembly grease (except for carbon seat posts,
components. stems on forks with a carbon steerer tube and all seat
Always observe the tightening torques indicated
posts on carbon frames). This helps to avoid corro-
The person completing and mounting the add-on sion. If you omit the grease, you may find it impossible
parts must therefore ensure that all components are to disassemble your Canyon at a later date.
Canyon Ultimate CF frameset
compatible and properly mounted. There is a vast va-
riety of available add-on parts, making it impossible Canyon road bike frames are delivered with the head-
for Canyon to cover every conceivable option in this set and fork already mounted.
manual. Canyon cannot be held responsible for any
component combination possible. Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the max-
imum permissible torque in small steps. Check the
We strongly advise you to carefully read the compo- secure seat of the component, as described in the
nent manufacturers’ operating instructions, as well. relevant chapters.
Failures in selecting bike components can, in princi-
ple, result in your Canyon being unsafe. We therefore For parts with no torque range given, tighten the
advise you to have your bike assembled by a skilled bolts gradually to the maximum torque and check in
Make it a rule to use a torque wrench
mechanic or by our service centre. For your own safe- between regularly the reliable fit of the component.
ty, never do any work unless you feel absolutely sure
about it.
Have your Canyon assembled in our serv-
i All carbon fibres of the Canyon F10 frame
! were arranged in a way to meet the
ice centre!
strength specifications for those directions of
These instructions may require further force to which they are normally subjected. For
i this reason the riveted cable stops must only be
explanations, depending on the experi-
ence and/or skills of the person doing the work, The stem included in the delivery is the subjected to forces as they are exerted by the
and some jobs may require additional (special) ! only stem approved for assembly. gear or brake cable. Do not pull on them at an
tools, such as special dismantling tools or addi- oblique angle or against the direction of the cable,
tional instructions. i.e. away from the frame, e.g. in an attempt to alter
Whoever assembles a Canyon bike frame
the effective cable length. This could otherwise
from a bare frame carries the responsibil- cause damage to the frame.
Do not clamp the frame into an assembly ity for ensuring that the components are selected
! stand by its tubes! This could cause dam- and mounted in accordance with the manufactur-
age to the thin-walled tubes. First mount a sturdy ers’ guidelines, generally accepted standards and Some components have torque specifica-
i
aluminium seat post and use this to clamp the the state of the art in science and technology. In tions printed or labelled on them. Be sure
frame, or use an assembly stand which holds the case there are any questions regarding compati- to observe these specifications. Also follow the
frame at three points from inside or which holds bility of individual parts, please contact our ser- component manufacturers’ operating instruc-
the fork and bottom bracket shell. vice hotline at +44 (0) 208 5496001. tions enclosed with the delivery!
48 FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY 49
Depending on the model Canyon road bikes are fitted All frame models have a sufficiently fastened replace-
with different headsets. able derailleur hanger. Observe the indicated torque
value on the derailleur hanger itself. Do not exceed
Canyon road bikes and framesets are always deliv- the maximum torque values!
ered with fully assembled forks and adjusted head-
sets. BOTTLE CAGE
BOTTOM BRACKET BEARINGS Use a maximum torque of 5 Nm. Do not exceed the
Fully mounted and adjusted headset with stem and fork Do not exceed the maximum torque of 1.5 Nm when replacing the re-
maximum torque of 5 Nm. placeable derailleur hanger
Depending on the model Canyon road bikes are fit-
ted with different bottom bracket systems, Press CABLE STOPS
Fit BB 91 with 86.5 mm being used preferably.
The cable stops riveted onto the Canyon Ultimate CF
Common cartridge bearings can be mounted directly frame must only be subjected to forces acting in the
into the bottom bracket shell of all models with high- same direction as the gear or brake cables. Forces
grade grease. Observe the torque specifications of acting at an oblique angle or against the direction of
the bottom bracket manufacturer. the cable can cause damage to the frame.
SEAT POST
ADJUSTING THE
When selecting a new seat post make sure it has the
same nominal diameter as the frame’s seat tube. You CANYON ROAD BIKE TO
should be able to slide it in easily without pressing or
turning. A mismatch between frame and seat post can
cause failure of the seat post.
THE RIDER
No matter whether you want to ride in streamlined
Before mounting the seat post on the frame make position or relaxed on a Canyon racing machine. The
sure the seat tube is absolutely free of sharp edges (seating) position is crucial for your well-being and
Make sure the seat post matches accurately the frame Be sure there is enough clearance between crotch and top tube
and burrs. If either the seat post or the frame is made the development of your riding performance on your
of carbon, then both parts have to be free of oil and Canyon. Therefore, be sure to adjust both saddle and
grease. Clean and deburr the seat tube, if necessary. handlebars of your Canyon as accurately as possible
to your needs.
Take care not to overtighten the seat post binder bolt
or quick-release. Be sure to read the notes given in In principle, road racing bicycles are sports bikes de-
chapter “Adjusting the saddle to the correct height” signed for speed. For this reason alone riding a road
as well as the permitted torques in chapter “General racing bicycle requires certain basic preconditions of
notes on care and inspection” and follow the operat- the trunk, shoulder and neck muscles.
ing instructions of the component manufacturers, as
well. Overtightening may cause a seat post failure, Your body height is the decisive criterion when
resulting in a crash and/or injury of the rider. choosing the frame size of your Canyon. By choosing
Take care not to overtighten the seat post binder bolt a specific type of bike you already roughly determine
the posture you will be riding in. However, some com- Typical position of a road racing cyclist
ponents of your Canyon are designed in a way that
you can adjust them to your proportions up to a cer-
tain degree. These include the seat post, the stem and
the brake levers.
ADJUSTING THE Now you can adjust the saddle height to the de-
sired position. Make sure the part of the seat post
inside the seat tube is always well greased. (Except:
SADDLE TO THE frames and seat posts made of carbon). Do not use
brute force, if the seat post does not move easily
CORRECT HEIGHT inside the seat tube. Contact, if necessary, our ser-
vice hotline at +44 (0) 208 5496001.
The correct saddle height is all a matter of how it al- Align the saddle with the frame using the saddle
lows you to pedal. nose and the bottom bracket or top tube as refer-
ences.
To adjust the saddle height loosen the seat post binder bolt Check alignment of saddle along top tube to make sure it is not
Attention: When pedalling, the ball of your big toe Clamp the seat post tight again by turning the seat twisted
should be positioned above the centre of the pedal post binder bolt clockwise. You should not need
spindle. With your feet in this position you should not much strength in your hands to clamp the seat
be able to stretch your legs completely at the lowest post sufficiently tight. Otherwise the seat post
point. If the saddle is too high, you will have trouble may be the wrong size for the frame. If you are in
passing through the lowest point and your pedalling doubt, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 208
will become awkward. If the saddle is too low, you 5496001.
may soon find your knees aching. You can check the Verify that the seat clamp is sufficiently tight by
height of your saddle in the following simple way. This taking hold of the saddle at both ends and trying to
is best done wearing flat-soled shoes. turn the seat post inside the seat tube. If it does not
move, the seat post is firmly seated.
Sit on the saddle and put one heel on the pedal at Does the leg stretch test now produce the right re-
its lowest point. In this position your leg should be sult? Check by moving your foot and pedal to the Try twisting the saddle relative to the frame
The leg must be fully stretched with the heel on the pedal at its lowest
fully stretched and your hips should not be tilted to point
lowest point. If the ball of your big toe is exactly
either side. above the pedal centre (ideal pedalling position)
your knee should be slightly bent. If this is the case,
To adjust the saddle height loosen the binder bolt the saddle height is adjusted to the correct height.
or quick-release lever (read chapter “How to use Check whether you can balance safely on your bike
quick-releases and thru axles“ beforehand). Use a The minimum insertion depths marked on while sitting on the saddle by stretching your feet to
suitable tool to release the seat post binder bolt by ! seat post and frame may differ. Be sure the floor. If not, you should lower the saddle a little.
turning it anticlockwise. to insert the seat post to the deepest insertion
depth.
Do not pull the seat post out as far as to let the mark
on the shaft come into view. In the case of frames with Do not overtighten the binder bolt of the
With children who are still growing it is ad-
long seat tubes which continue beyond the top tube, i seat post clamp. Otherwise the seat post
visable to check the seating position every
the seat post should at least reach below the height or the frame can be damaged. Risk of an accident!
two to three months.
of the top tube! This can mean a minimum insertion
length of 10 centimetres (4.5 in.) or more.
Never apply grease or oil into a seat tube Never ride your bicycle with the seat post
of a frame made of carbon, unless an al- Tighten carefully by approaching the pre- drawn out beyond the limit, maximum, or
uminium sleeve is inside the frame. If you mount i stop mark! The seat post might break or cause
scribed maximum torque in small steps
a carbon seat post, do not put any grease on it, (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking severe damage to the frame. If your bicycle has
even if the frame is made of metal. Once greased the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the a long seat tube continuing beyond the top tube,
carbon fibre components may never again ensure maximum tightening torque indicated by the man- the seat post should at least reach below the level
reliable clamping! ufacturer! of the top tube and the tip of the rear stays!
54 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER HANDLEBAR HEIGHT HANDLEBAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 55
If you want to turn around the stem, you have to addi- I-LOCK SYSTEM
tionally remove the handlebars. In the case of bikes with “I-Lock” system the headset
is also fixed by the stem. If you modify the stem posi-
To do so release the bolts of the stem front plate tion, you have to readjust the headset (see chapter
clamping the handlebars and remove them careful- “The headset”, as well). Some models are fitted with a
ly. transition plate. This part is designed to keep the set
Apply a little Canyon carbon assembly paste in this bearing play even with the stem or cockpit dismount-
clamping area and retighten the handlebars after ed. This transition plate as well as the fork steerer
having turned around the stem. clamping must be released to re-adjust the headset.
The transition plate therefore only is an assembly
Centre the handlebars accurately in the stem Release the bolts on the side of the stem
Readjust the bearing aid. Observe the indicated torque value. Changing
clamp.
the height of the handlebars can only be achieved by
Retighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque removing the spacers from beneath the stem and by
wrench by observing the correct tightening torques. slipping them on top of it or, with so-called flip-flop
Please note that when using carbon assembly paste models, by turning the stem around.
you normally need not use the maximum tightening
torque. It will do already to tighten the bolts with Release the bolts at the side of the stem by two to
tightening torques that are 20 to 25 % below the three turns. Turn back the bolts of the headset ad-
maximum tightening torques, i.e. 6 Nm instead of 8 justing device, i.e. anticlockwise.
Nm. That will prevent the material from damage. Remove the cap at the stem top.
Readjust the bearing. Keep hold of the fork and slip the stem off the steerer tube.
Realign the stem by making sure it is in alignment Retighten the stem to the prescribed torque Now you can remove the spacers. Slightly tighten the transition plate bolt
with the front wheel and at right angle relative to Apply a litte Canyon carbon assembly paste in the
the handlebars and the direction of motion. After stem clamping area.
realignment of the stem retighten it and check Remount the stem entirely on the fork steerer tube and
whether the handlebars resist twisting and turning slip the spacers you have removed above the stem.
(see chapter “The headset”).
This is a rough-and-ready adjustment
! to check the handlebar position, as the spac-
ers might rattle during riding. When you are sure you
have found the adequate handlebar height, have the
steerer tube shortened by a skilled mechanic.
Remove the cap
Your Canyon road bike has a steerer tube
made of carbon, which you can tell by the
black or shining black colour in the stem slit. Be sure
Verify that the handlebar clamping area to be very carefully when doing any work in the cock-
i Note that the bolted connections of stem pit area of your Canyon. This is a job for skilled me-
is free of sharp edges. If you intend to
and handlebars have to be tightened to the chanics only! Wrong handling or using a wrong tool When replacing the stem be sure to only
make any changes, contact our service hotline at
specified tightening torques. You will find the pre- when shortening the steerer tube leads to irrepara- use parts that bear the appropriate mark
+44 (0) 208 5496001. ble material damage which may be dangerous under
scribed values in chapter “Recommended tight- and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts.
ening torques” or in the enclosed manuals of the certain circumstances. Canyon does not assume any Due to this special type of clamping, the usage
component manufacturers. Contact, if necessary, liability for damage to the steerer tube caused by in- of other models may cause damage, in particular
If you have a Canyon road bike with a
our service hotline at +44 (0) 208 5496001. If you appropriate handling. This shall render the warranty
carbon steerer tube (which you can tell by null and void. If you are not sure, please contact our in the case of carbon forks. Risk of an accident!
the black or black shining colour in the stem slit), disregard the prescribed values, the handlebars Canyon workshop to have the adjustments made. Canyon denies any liability for combinations with
you have to be extremely careful when tightening or stem may come loose or break. This can lead to Contact, if necessary, our service hotline at +44 (0) other stem models. This shall render the warranty
the stem. This is a job for experts only! a severe crash. 208 5496001. null and void.
58 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER HANDLEBAR HEIGHT FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 59
ADJUSTING SADDLE POSITION AND TILT Clamping with two bolts in line
Patent clamping with two parallel bolts Release both bolts by two to three turns at the most,
otherwise the whole assembly can come apart. Move
With so called patent seat posts two bolts fix the the saddle forth or back, as desired, to adjust the
clamping mechanism, which ensures the tilt and the horizontal position. Tighten both bolts evenly so the
vertical position of the saddle. Release both seat saddle remains at the same angle.
clamp bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolts
two to three turns anticlockwise at the most, other- If you wish to lower a little the nose of the saddle, turn
wise the whole assembly can come apart. the front bolt. It might be that you have to loosen the
Tighten both bolts evenly and alternately without exceeding the per- Release both bolts by two to three turns at the most
missible maximum torque
rear bolt a little. To lower the rear part of the saddle,
Move the saddle forth or back, as desired. You may the rear bolt has to be turned. Having found your pre-
have to give it a light blow to move it. Observe the ferred position make sure both clamps are correctly
marking on the saddle rail and do not go beyond. aligned with the saddle rails before tightening the
bolts to the correct torque setting as prescribed by
Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal the seat post manufacturer.
as you tighten the bolt evenly and alternately. The
bike should stand on level ground while you adjust Please observe the recommended tightening torques
the saddle. in chapter “General notes on care and inspection“.
After fastening the saddle check whether it resists
After fastening the saddle check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with
tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands on the tip and once at the rear end. Retighten the bolts evenly and alternately to the prescribed torque
your hands on the tip and once at the rear end.
Check the firm seat of the retightened saddle
Stems come in very different lengths Be sure the saddle rail is clamped within the marked area
and shaft and binder tube diameters. A
stem of inappropriate dimensions can become a
serious source of danger: Handlebars and stem
may break, causing an accident in the process. VCLS Post 2.0
allow changes to the tilt and horizontal position of the the brake levers is a job best left to an expert, as it
saddle without releasing the clamping mechanism. involves retaping the handlebars afterwards.
To change the horizontal position of the saddle, re- ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR POSITION BY TURNING
I
lease the two lower positioned Allen bolts by two to THE HANDLEBAR
three turns at the most. You can now move the saddle
Release the Allen bolt(s) at the front side of the
horizontally and adjust the tilt to your needs. Subse-
stem.
quently, tighten both Allen bolts evenly so the saddle
Turn the handlebars to the desired position.
remains at the desired angle. Use a torque wrench. In Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in
the event there is no firm clamping of your seat post II the stem. Release the Allen bolt(s) at the front side of the stem
at 5 Nm, carefully increase the tightening torque in
small steps to a maximum of 8 Nm. Do not exceed the Allen bolts to fasten and adjust the Speedmax saddle clamping
Please note that there are two different procedures of
maximum tightening torque! how to securely fasten the handlebars.
Alternative 1
Screwing in Canyon Aheadset®-stems with faceplate.
Screw in both upper bolts (pos. 1+2) without tight-
ening them (1 Nm). The slot should be fully closed in
the end, the faceplate should be flush with the body.
To do so, you may have to release both lower bolts
(pos. 3+4).
Bring the saddle rail in a position that the Continue by tightening both lower bolts (pos. 3+4) The upper slot should be fully closed
seat post clamping is within the marked according to the tightening torques on the stem (5
Read the operating instructions on the
i area. If there is no marking, the clamping must or 8 Nm).
enclosed CD. be effected on the straight portion of the rail and Finish by re-tightening both upper bolts (pos. 1+2) 1 2
on no account on the front or rear bend. Risk of according to the tightening torques on the stem (5
Never ride your bike with the seat post breakage! or 8 Nm). Please note that this tightening torque 3 4
drawn out beyond the maximum mark! The only applies to the combination of the Canyon stem
seat post might break or sustain damage. Risk of Check the bolts by using a torque wrench
with the Canyon handlebars.
an accident! once a month according to the values
indiated in chapter „Recommended tightening
Use a torque wrench and never exceed the torques“, in the enclosed manuals or directly on Tighten the bolts according to the marked tightening torque
maximum tightening torque! the components.
64 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS BRAKE LEVER REACH ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 65
Alternative 2
Screwing in conventional Aheadset®-stems with ADJUSTING THE
faceplate.
Re-tighten the bolts carefully and evenly. Make
sure the upper and lower clamping slots between
BRAKE LEVER REACH
faceplate and stem body are parallel and identical With road bikes the clearance between brake levers/
in width. shifters and handlebars can be adjusted to a minor
Once it fits tighten the bolts evenly and in a cross degree. This allows riders with small hands to bring
pattern according to the marked tightening torque the brake levers closer to the handlebars. The first Brake lever reach
by using the Canyon torque wrench. Please observe The upper and lower clamping slots between faceplate and stem phalanx of both the index and the middle finger must
the recommended tightening torques in chapter body must be parallel and identical in width be able to grip the brake lever. Braking from the top
“General notes on care and inspection“. with your hands on the upper end of the brake grips
is not an alternative in the long run and in hazardous
Check the firm seat of the handlebars by standing in situations, you need more manual force and cannot
front of your Canyon and seizing the handlebars at support yourself appropriately.
both brake levers. The handlebars must be tight and
withstand any downward jerk. Gently retighten the In the case of Shimano’s Dura-Ace unscrew the
clamping bolt(s), if necessary. chrome cover and tighten the screw positioned in the
front. In the case of the Ultegra you need special in- Shimano Dura-Ace SRAM
sert pieces. In the case of both Di2 models you reach
the screws from the rear, after you have removed the
hoods.
Retighten the bolts to the prescribed torque In the case of SRAM start by setting the cam disc on
the slightly pulled and inward moved shifters. Screw
in the screw positioned behind the hood in the body
by using an Allen key.
Note that the distance you need to stop
your bike increases, while riding with the In the case of flat bars there is a small adjusting bolt
hands on the top handlebars or lying in aerody- where the brake hose of a side-pull brake runs into Adjust the brake lever travel with the knurled nut
namic position. The brake levers are not within the brake lever unit or on the lever itself.
easy reach.
Finish by checking the correct adjustment and func-
tion of the brake system as described in chapter “The
Note that the bolted connections of the Note that the bolted connections of the
brake system” and/or in the brake manufacturer’s
stem, handlebars and brakes have to be The handlebar must withstand any strong jerk operating instructions. stem, handlebars and brakes have to be
tightened to the specified torques. You will find tightened to the specified torques. You will find
the prescribed values in chapter “General notes the prescribed values in chapter “General notes on
If you have problems reaching the levers, please con-
on care and inspection” or in the enclosed manu- care and inspection” or in the enclosed manuals
tact our service hotline at +44 (0) 208 5496001.
als of the component manufacturers. If you disre- of the component manufacturers. If you disregard
Read up on time trial handlebars for triathlon and
gard the prescribed values, the components may the prescribed values, the components may come
time trial machines in chapter “Special features of
come loose or break. This can lead to a severe loose or break. This can lead to a severe crash.
triathlon, track bikes and time trial machines”.
crash.
THE PEDAL SYSTEMS Clipless of step-in pedals come with a special type of
cycling shoe which locks onto the pedal similarly to
a ski binding. To engage with the pedal is to turn it
Not all shoes are suited for cycling. Shoes used for to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat (the plate
cycling should have a stiff sole and provide a firm on the sole of the shoe) and then rest your foot on it.
support for your feet. If the soles are too soft, the ped- Most pedals are equipped with a double-sided lock-in
als can press through and cause foot pain. The sole mechanism, so that you can step on the pedal with
should be not too broad near the heels, as the rear either face up. The shoe engages with the pedal with
stays will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling. a click which you will hear and feel clearly.
This will prevent your feet from assuming a natural
position and may cause knee pain in the long run. Step-in pedal With all commercially available systems the shoe is The clipless pedal disengages by an outward twisting of the heel
disengaged from the pedal by twisting the heel out-
DIFFERENT SYSTEMS AT A GLANCE – HOW THEY ward. Lean against a wall or ask someone to hold you
WORK when you try to engage and disengage the shoe from
the pedal.
It is recommended using pedals which provide a lock
and release mechanism for your shoe, known as clip- Functional differences between the pedal systems
less or step-in pedals. The firm connection between concern the shape of the cleat, the release angle and
shoe and pedal prevents your feet from slipping off the rigidity of the connection. Cyclists predisposed to
when pedalling fast or when riding over rough ground. knee trouble should choose a pedal system that has
Besides this, it enables you not only to push but also some „float”, so that the heel can move sideways a
to pull the pedals, which makes your pedalling more little while the shoe is engaged with the pedal.
fluent. A further advantage is that the ball of your big
toe comes to rest just at the right place on the pedal Shoes for step-in pedals Some clipless pedals have cleats embedded into the Cleats are recessed in cycling shoe soles
spindle and that you do not block inadvertently the sole which is a great advantage, as it ensures stable
front wheel with the tips of your feet during steering. walking.
ROAD BIKE RIM BRAKES Checking and readjusting road bike brakes
Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear With side-pull brakes the brake arms are suspended
from a common point, thus forming an integral sys-
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a tem. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are
stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotating tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim.
braking surface, and the resulting friction slows down
the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only deter- Checking the brake system
mined by the force with which the brake pad is pressed
against the braking surface, but also to a decisive de- Check whether the brake pads are accurately
gree by the coefficient of friction, which depends on Brake pads with worn down wear indicators, i.e. grooves, (bottom aligned with the rims and still sufficiently thick (see The brake pad must hit the rim accurately
the two materials that are rubbed against each other. brake pad) must be replaced
chapter “The brake system”).
When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the Do both brake arms contact the rim simultaneous-
engaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient of ly when actuating the brake levers? Do you get a
friction. This is why brakes respond at a slight delay clear-cut braking response when you pull the brake
and less powerfully in wet weather. The friction gen- lever hard, and does the lever remain clear of the
erated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as handlebars no matter how hard you pull?
well as to the rims! Frequent rides in the rain hasten
wear on both engaging surfaces. An accurate adjustment of the brake is achieved,
when your brake system has passed on all of the
Rims are provided with wear indicators, i.e. grooves above points.
or circular indentations. If the rim is worn down to the
point where the grooves or indentations are no longer Vertical adjustment of the brake pads To adjust the height of the brake pads tighten the bolt to the pre-
Have your rims regularly inspected and measured scribed torque
visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion
of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one
may break under the tyre pressure. This can make the to two complete turns at the most.
wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which can Push the brake pad to the correct height and align
cause an accident! it according to the rim before re-tightening the fas-
tening bolt to the specified torque.
We advise you to have the remaining thickness of the
rims checked at the latest when you are through your
second set of brake pads.
Ensure that braking surfaces are abso- After the readjustment do a brake test in
! lutely free of wax, grease and oil. Ask a standing. Make sure the brake pads en-
skilled mechanic to examine the rims at the latest gage fully with the rim when you pull them hard
when you are through your second set of brake Manufacturers of brakes deliver their without touching the tyre. Furthermore you
i
pads. Worn down rims may make the inner tube Damaged brake cables that are for exam- products with detailed operating instruc- should not be able to pull the brake levers all the
burst, thus leading to a crash! In order to maintain ple frayed should be replaced immediate- tions. Be sure to read these operating instruc- way to the handlebars. Otherwise the brake might
their effectiveness brakes need to be checked ly, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, tions carefully before you dismount a wheel or do fail or the tyre sustain damage, thus causing an
and readjusted from time to time. possibly causing a crash. any maintenance work. accident.
72 BRAKE SYSTEM RIM BRAKES DISC BRAKES BRAKE SYSTEM 73
Readjusting and synchronising the side-pull brakes MECHANICAL AND HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKES
With dual pivot brakes, turn the small (headless) Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear
screw, located at the side or on top of the calliper,
until the left and right brake pad are at the same Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a
distance from the rim. stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotat-
Furthermore, check whether the bolt connecting ing braking surface, and the resulting friction slows
the brake to the frame is still tightened to the pre- down the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only
scribed torque, as specified in chapter “Recom- determined by the force with which the brake pad is
mended tightening torques”. Screw this small bolt until the clearance between brake pad and rim pressed against the braking surface, but also to a
Turn the knurled nut through which the brake ca- is the same on either side decisive degree by the coefficient of friction, which Disc brake
ble passes at the brake body until the travel of the depends on the two materials that are rubbed against
brake lever suits your needs. To synchronise the each other.
brake, turn the little bolt on the side of the brake
arm or the other bolt in the top area on the other In the wet, disc brakes respond much faster than rim
side. brakes. They also require fairly little maintenance
and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. One
drawback of disc brakes is that they tend to be noisy
when they are wet.
Make sure that the rotors and brake pads Leakages in the lines of hydraulic brakes
! remain absolutely free of wax, grease and may render them ineffective. Remove such
lubricant. Brake pads, once contaminated with oil leakages immediately, otherwise risk of accident!
Damaged brake cables that are for exam- cannot be cleaned, but have to be replaced!
ple frayed should be replaced immediate- Damaged cables should be replaced im-
ly, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, Wet conditions and/or a heavily clogged mediately, as otherwise they can tear. Risk
possibly causing a crash. i of an accident!
brake can lead to squeaking noises during
braking.
Adjusting the position of the brake pads Disc brakes are susceptible to overheating
relative to the rims requires a considerable When replacing brake pads, be sure to during braking. Therefore, do not touch
degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake i the disc or brake caliper after extensive usage of
only use marked original spare parts
pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer. matching your brake. your brake, e.g. after riding downhill.
74 BRAKE SYSTEM DISC BRAKES DISC BRAKES BRAKE SYSTEM 75
Adjusting the brake lever reach After readjusting check the functioning and make
sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the
With disc brakes the brake levers can be adjusted to brake lever and spinning the wheel.
the size of your hands, too, allowing you to operate
them with optimal effectiveness. In most cases this Repeated readjustment at the brake lever makes the
is done by means of a small Allen bolt located directly arm on the brake caliper change its position. This can
at the hand lever. reduce braking power and result in a complete brake
failure in an extreme case. Risk of an accident!
After adjusting check the functioning and make sure
the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake Some models offer further ways of adjusting the
Brake lever reach
lever and spinning the wheel. brakes directly at the brake caliper, though this re- Wear control of the brake pads
quires a certain amount of skill.
Checking and readjusting in the case of mechanical
disc brakes Checking and readjusting in the case of hydraulic disc
brakes
Regularly check the braking response and the con-
dition of the brake cables while pulling on the lever. Regularly check the lines and connections for leaks
while pulling on the lever. If hydraulic oil or brake flu-
Brake lever flat bar
Do you get a clear-cut braking response when you id leaks out, you should take appropriate measures
pull the brake lever hard, and does the lever remain In any case, be sure to read the original immediately, as a leak can render your brakes inef-
clear of the handlebars no matter how hard you pull? i fective. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline at
instructions of the brake manufacturer be-
fore adjusting the brakes. +44 (0) 208 5496001.
To a certain extent, an increasing lever travel due to
the wear on the brake pads can be compensated di- A leak in the brake lines can render the brake ineffec-
rectly at the brake caliper. Unscrew the union nut on Repeated readjustment at the brake lever tive. Risk of an accident!
the bolt through which the cable enters the brake ca- or brake caliper only can drastically re-
liper and then unscrew the bolt until the lever has the duce the maximum braking performance. Most of the brake models are equipped with a mecha-
desired travel. Retighten the lock nut by taking care nism which automatically compensates for the wear.
that the slit of the bolt head does not face upward or Before every ride, check whether you get a clear-cut
forward, as this would permit an unnecessarily high Damaged brake cables that are for exam- braking response before the lever touches the han-
amount of water or dirt to enter. ple frayed should be replaced immediate- dlebars. If your brake system works with DOT brake
ly, as they can otherwise fail in a critical moment, fluid, the latter needs to be replaced regu-
Check at regular intervals, whether the brake pads possibly causing a crash. Check at regular intervals, whether the brake pads larly according to the intervals prescribed by the
are still sufficiently thick. The wear on the pads can are still sufficiently thick. The wear of the pads can manufacturer.
be checked by means of the thickness of the brak- be checked by means of the thickness of the brak-
New brake pads have to be bedded in
ing material attached to the backing plate within the i ing material attached to the backing plate within the
Do not open the brake lines. Brake fluid
before they reach their optimal braking
! that can be very unhealthy and damaging
brake caliper or by viewing through the window on brake caliper or by viewing through the window on
the upper side of the caliper. If there is approximately performance. Accelerate your Canyon 30 to 50 the upper side of the caliper. If there is approximately
times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it to to the paint could leak out.
1mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the 1mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the
pads according to the manufacturer’s operating in- a halt each time. pads according to the manufacturer’s operating in-
structions, check them thoroughly and replace them, structions, check them thoroughly and replace them, Loose connections and leaky brake lines
if necessary. Some systems must be readjusted directly if necessary. drastically impair braking power. If there
! at the brake caliper to compensate wear. are any leakages in the system or lines bent, con-
For more information please read the brake man- tact an expert or call our service hotline at +44 (0)
ufacturer’s operating instructions. 208 5496001. Risk of a crash!
76 BRAKE SYSTEM DISC BRAKES GEARS 77
THE GEARS - HOW THEY WORK AND HOW TO USE The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to the
THEM rear derailleur via bowden cable. Then the rear derail-
leur swivels, causing the chain to climb onto the next
With road bikes the shift levers are integrated in the sprocket. It is therefore important when changing
brake lever. On a Campagnolo equipped bike moving gears to continue pedalling smoothly without force
the small shift lever located behind the brake lever as long as the chain is moving between sprockets or
inward by means of your index or middle finger shifts chainrings!
the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pressing with
your thumb on the shifter located on the inward fac- Campagnolo shift/brake lever There are, however, special guides in the chainrings
ing side of the brake lever mount, moves the chain which allow for changing gears under force. Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the smallest chainring and
the outmost sprocket
towards the next smaller sprocket.
Changing gears under load shortens, however, the
With Shimano levers swivelling the entire brake lever service life of your chain considerably. Therefore,
inward shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. avoid changing gears while pedalling with force, in
Pressing only the small lever inward makes the chain particular when changing gears with the front derail-
move towards the smaller sprockets. leur.
With SRAM Force doubletap levers there is only one Shimano shift/brake lever Canyon road bikes can have up to 22 speeds. De-
shifting lever positioned behind the brake lever. A railleur gears have one or two chainwheels at the
short tap to the inward moves the chain to a smaller front crank and eleven sprockets at the rear wheel
sprocket. Sweeping the shifting lever more in means hub. Some gears with particular chain run should be
Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the biggest chainring and
the derailleur shifts the chain to larger sprockets. avoided. Gears with an extremely oblique run of the the inmost sprocket
One tap can shift up to three gears. chain enhance a higher inner friction, which reduces
the power transmission efficiency and hastens wear
With Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo bar end shift- of the chain.
ers for triathlon and time trial use the shifting lever is
pressed downward to move the chain to the smaller An unfavourable run of the chain is when the smallest
SRAM shift/brake lever
sprockets to achieve a higher gear and to the small- chainring (front derailleur) is used with one of the
er chainrings to achieve a lower gear. By pulling the two or three outermost (smallest) sprockets (rear Practise changing gears in a place free of
shifting lever upward you can switch to the larger derailleur) or when the largest chainring is used with traffic until you are familiar with the func-
sprockets and larger chainrings. one of the inmost (largest) sprockets. tioning of the different levers or twist grips. If
you do so in road traffic, your attention might be
In the case of flat bars the control levers of the shift- drawn off from possible risks.
ers are positioned under the handlebars. The big le-
ver on the right is thumb-operated. The chain moves
on larger sprockets, i.e. to lower gears. The smaller Avoid gears which involve an extremely
i
lever is either index finger or thumb-operated and Bar end shift lever
oblique run of the chain.
shifts into the other direction. On the left side the big
thumb-operated lever shifts to the large chainring, Keep on pedalling without force while you
i Do not shift under load, as this will shorten
i.e. to a higher gear ratio. shift. This will lead to a smooth and quiet
gear change and reduce the wear. the durability of the chain considerably.
Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e.
the chain can get jammed between chainstay and
If your road racing bicycle is fitted with an chainrings. Avoid shifting gears while pedalling
i
electronic shifting system Di2 from with force, in particular when shifting with the
Shimano, also read chapter “Shimano Di2”. front derailleur.
Shifter flat bar
80 GEARS CHECKING AND READJUSTING CHECKING AND READJUSTING GEARS 81
The derailleur gears were thoroughly adjusted by the The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screws
Canyon team before delivery of your Canyon. The which limit the swivel range of the rear derailleur,
bowden cables may, however, give way on the first thus preventing the rear derailleur and chain from
kilometres making gear changing imprecise. This will colliding with the spokes or the chain from dropping
result in the chain not wanting to climb onto the next off the smallest sprocket. The limit screws do not
larger sprocket. change their position during normal use.
If the pulley cage touches the spokes or if the chain FRONT DERAILLEUR
begins to move beyond the largest sprocket, you
should reduce the swivel range. Turn the screw Adjusting the front derailleur requires a great deal of
marked “L“, until you are absolutely sure the rear experience. The range within which the front derail-
derailleur does not collide with the spokes. leur keeps the chain on the chainring without itself
Check the position of the pulley cage towards the touching the chain is very small.
sprocket. The gap between pulley and the largest
sprocket should leave a clearance of one to two It is often better to let the chain drag slightly on the
links at least. derailleur than to risk having the chain fall off the
The rear derailleur is equipped with a bolt located chainring, which would interrupt the power train of
To adjust the clearance between pulley cage and sprocket, turn the Retightening of the bowden cable at the adjusting bolt on the frame
at the drop-out front which serves the purpose of bolt located at the front side of the drop-out
your Canyon.
adjusting this clearance. Screw in this bolt until the
clearance is as desired. Turn the cranks backwards As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front
for checking purposes. The pulley should not touch derailleur is subject to lengthening and hence to re-
the sprocket during this movement, as well. duced precision in gear changing.
In case the clearance still does not suffice, chang- Increase the tension of the cable by turning the
ing gears being thus impeded, you have to short- adjusting bolt at the down tube of the frame. This
en the chain by one link. This means an increased works mainly, as described in section „Checking
tension on the rear derailleur. It must, however, be and readjusting the gears“.
ensured that the chain can run on the largest chain- Reduce the swivel range of the front derailleur with
ring as well as on the largest sprocket. Due to the the limit screws.
extremely oblique run of the chain, this gear should Adjusting the swivel range of the front derailleur
however be avoided.
The Di2 is the electronic version of the high quality A new, fully charged battery allows you to ride approx.
shifting groupsets made by Shimano. Instead of via 1,000 km (620 miles). An about 25 % charged battery
cables the signal is transmitted by wires. The rear still runs approx. 250 km (150 miles).
and the front derailleurs are moved by small electrical
motors. With an oblique running chain the Di2 front With a weak battery the front derailleur is the first
derailleur is even readjusted automatically to avoid component to stop working, followed by the rear de-
grinding noises and unnecessary wear. railleur. In this condition you can still ride some more
kilometres and shift with the rear derailleur. The bat-
The power supply is provided by a rechargeable bat- Di2 front derailleur tery should, however, be recharged as soon as pos- Di2 battery
tery that is mounted to the frame. sible. When the battery is empty the rear derailleur
remains in the previously chosen gear. Shifting into
CONTROL another gear is impossible from that moment on!
With the Di2 you no longer have to move inwards the You can check the battery’s state of charge at any
entire brake lever or the lever of the conventional time. Push one of the control buttons and hold it 0.5
Dual Control shift lever from Shimano, but only to seconds at least. The LED on the control unit indi-
gently push control buttons. Shifting with the oblong cates the state of charge:
control button on the side of the brake lever shifts to
the larger chainrings/sprockets. Pushing the trian- - green light is one for about 2 seconds:
gular control button that is located behind the brake battery’s state of charge 100 %
The Di2 battery may be mounted invisibly in the down tube
lever makes the chain move to the smaller chainrings/ Rear derailleur
sprockets. - green light blinks 5 times:
battery’s state of charge about 50 %
Information about the gear systems SRAM
There is the option to have the control button func- i
RED e-tap and Campagnolo EPS is provid-
tion changed by your bicycle dealer if desired. The - red light is one for about 2 seconds:
ed on the websites of the manufacturers and/or in
only thing necessary to do so is a special test device battery’s state of charge about 25 %
the enclosed manuals of the component manu-
from Shimano that is also used for troubleshooting.
facturers.
- red light blinks 5 times:
battery’s state of charge empty
Recharge the battery only with the charger
Over time, the capacity of the battery will degrade delivered together with the battery!
and so will the distance you will be able to ride. This
process is inevitable. When the achievable distance
Keep a nearly charged battery (50 % or
you will be able to ride no longer meets your require-
more) that is not used for a longer period
ments, you must replace the battery.
of time in a dry, cool place and out of the reach of
children. After six month at the latest you should
Before using your new Di2-shifting sys- check the state of charge. Mount the protective
tem, be sure to do a test ride in an area free cover on the battery’s contact area prior to stor-
of traffic. age.
Be sure to read the enclosed operating Recharging the (empty) battery will take
i i
instructions of the gear manufacturer. about 1.5 hours.
86 GEARS CHAIN CHAIN GEARS 87
It still holds true that proper lubrication makes for Although the chain is one of the wearing components
enjoyable riding. What counts is, however, not the of your Canyon, there are still ways of influencing its
quantity, but the distribution and regular application service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regu-
of lubricant. larly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use
gears which allow a more or less straight run of the
Clean your chain from dirt and lubricant with an oily chain. Get in the habit of pedalling at a high cadence
rag from time to time. There is no need to use spe- (more than 60 to 70 strokes/minute).
cial degreasers. Check condition of chain
Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, Clean the chain from dirt and oil with a rag With road bikes chains running on derailleur gears
apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links. are worn out after about 1,200 to 4,000 km (740 to
To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the 2,480 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the
rollers while you turn the crank. operation of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out
This done, pedal through several chain lengths and chain also accelerates the wear of the sprockets and
then let the chain rest for a few minutes so that the chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively
lubricant can disperse. expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It
Finally rub off excess lubricant with a rag so that it is therefore advisable to check the condition of the
does not spatter around or attract dirt during riding. chain at regular intervals.
Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure in Please note that the valves have different diameters.
order to work properly. Adequately inflated tyres are Only use inner tubes with valves matching the rim.
also more resistant to flats. An insufficiently inflated Using a wrong valve may cause a sudden loss of air
inner tube can easily get pinched (“snake-bitten”), pressure and hence throw you off your bike.
when it goes over a sharp kerb.
With this valve type it may happen that the valve body
The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is not screwed in properly and that air leaks out slow-
is given on the side of the tyre or on the type label. ly. Check the seat of the valve body in its stem.
The lower of the two pressure specifications makes
for better cushioning and is therefore best for cycling Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyres
Race or Sclaverand valve Unscrewing the plastic cap
on a rough surface. Rolling resistance decreases to high pressure. A better choice is a stand pump
with increasing pressure, but so does comfort. A high equipped with a manometer which enables you to
tyre pressure is therefore most suitable for riding on check the pressure at home. There are adapters for
tarred roads. all types of valves which allow you to inflate a Sclav-
erand valve at the filling station.
Inflation pressure is often given in the old system of
units, i.e. in psi (pounds per square inch). The table
gives the most common pressure values in terms of
three systems.
The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air (ex-
cept for tubular tyres with road bikes). Therefore, an
Tyre pressure range With race or Sclaverand valves the valve must be unscrewed
inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre to retain
the air pressure. The tube is pumped up via a valve.
Canyon bikes are equipped with Sclaverand or race psi bar psi bar
valves. This type of valve is designed for highest pres-
sures, but you need getting used to its handling. This 80 5.5 115 7.9
valve is provided with a plastic cap to protect it from 85 5.9 120 8.3 With race or Sclaverand valves you first
dirt. 90 6.2 125 8.6 i
have to undo the small knurled nut a little
95 6.6 130 9.0 and press it in carefully until air starts to escape.
100 6.9 135 9.3
105 7.2 140 9.7
110 7.6 145 10.0 Always ride your bicycle with the pre-
! scribed tyre pressure and check the pres-
Air pressure in psi and bar Valve adapter
sure at regular intervals, at least once a week.
Tyres allowing an inflation pressure of five Make sure the valve diameter matches the
i
If your road bike has tubeless tyres, only
bars or more have to be mounted on hook ! hole in the rim and the valve is always in Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.
use the tools of the respective manufac- upright position!
bead rims, identifiable by the designation “C”. Exception: With Mavic system wheels you
turer for the mounting. For more details, read the
manuals of the tyre manufacturers or the instruc- do not need rim tapes.
tions on their websites. Never inflate the tyre beyond its maximi- Replace tyres with a worn tread or brittle
mum air pressure. Otherwise it might burst or frayed sides. Dampness and dirt pen- In the extreme case damage to the tyres
Riding with too low air pressure may make or come off the rim during the ride. Risk of an ac- etrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner may make the tubes suddenly burst,
the tyre come off the rim. cident! structure. throwing you off your bike!
92 WHEELS RIMS AND SPOKES PUNCTURE WHEELS 93
REMOVING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES After having removed the tyre, you should check the
rim tape. The tape should lie squarely in the base of
Screw the valve cap and the fastening nut off the the rim covering all spoke ends and should neither
valve and deflate the tyre completely. be torn nor brittle. In the case of rims with double
Press the tyre from the rim side towards the centre base – known as double chamber rims – the tape
of the rim. You will find it easier to remove the tyre, must cover the entire rim base. For this type of rim
if you do this around its entire circumference. only use rim tapes made of fabric or durable plastic.
Apply the plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyre Exception: With Mavic system wheels you do not
about 5 cm left or right from the valve and lever the need rim tapes. In case you are not sure with regard
tyre out of the rim. Hold the tyre lever tight in its to your rim tape, please contact our service hotline Rim tape in the rim
Press the tyre towards the centre of the rim
position. at +44 (0) 208 5496001.
Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at If necessary, you can remove the whole tyre by pull-
a point about ten centimeters beyond the first one ing the other tyre bead off the rim.
and lever the next portion of the bead over the edge
of the rim. MOUNTING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES
After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge
of the rim you should normally be able to slip off When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter
the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever such as dirt or sand gets inside the tyre and you do
around the whole circumference. not damage the inner tube.
Now you can pull out the inner tube. Take care the
valve does not get caught, as this can damage the Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Using your
inner tube. thumbs, press the bead over the edge of the rim
Repair the puncture according to the operating in- Apply the tyre levers and lift the tyre bead over the rim edge over the entire circumference. You should be able
structions of the repair kit manufacturer. to do this without any tools, regardless of the type
of tyre. Stick the valve of the tube through the hole Put the valve into the rim hole
in the rim.
Inflate the tube slightly so that it becomes round
and push it into the tyre all the way round. Make
sure not to leave any folds in the tube.
To finish mounting the tyre start at the point oppo-
site the valve. Using your thumbs, press the second
bead of the tyre over the edge of the rim as far as
you can.
Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and
squashed between tyre and rim. This is prevented
Remove the inner tube from the tyre
by pushing the inner tube into the tyre hollow with a Press the tyre with your hand onto the rim
finger as you work along.
If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by the
perforating object, replace the tyre as a
precaution.
Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve REMOVING TUBULAR TYRES
symmetrically from both sides. Towards the end you
will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards to Deflate the tyre completely. To dismount the tyre,
make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip start opposite the valve by pushing the tyre to the
towards the deepest part of the rim base. This will side until a gap appears and the tyre starts to come
ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres. off. If the tyre remains tight, stick a tyre lever into the
Check again the proper seat of the inner tube inside gap and lift the tyre off the rim.
the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the
edge of the rim by using the balls of your thumb. Replacing an individual tube is impossible. Instead
If this does not work, you will have to use tyre le- you have to mount a complete tubular tyre. En route
Press the tyre to make sure the tube does not get caught between Roll off the tyre until there is a gap
vers. Make sure the blunt ends point towards the rim and tyre beads
the tyre cannot be glued and is consequently not tight
inner tube and the inner tube does not get dam- on the rim even when inflated.
aged.
Press the valve deep into the tyre so that the in- Therefore, be sure to ride back very slowly and care-
ner tube does not get caught between rim and fully by taking the shortest way possible. Back home,
tyre beads. Does the valve stand upright? If not, you have to glue the tubular tyre, as described in the
dismount one bead again and reposition the inner following.
tube.
To make sure the inner tube does not get pinched MOUNTING TUBULAR TYRES
between rim and bead, inflate the tyre a little and
then move it sideways back and forth between the To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably
sides of the rim. While doing this you can also check stays in place you should take yourself some time Use a tyre lever to remove the tyre
whether the rim tape has been displaced. Witness line all around the side of the tyre and proceed stepwise. A little practice and experi-
Inflate the inner tube only to the desired pressure. ence with the glue and tubular model you are using
The maximum pressure is indicated on the side of can speed up the job.
the tyre.
Check the proper seat of the tyre by means of the Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue
“witness line” on the side of the tyre just above the or with adhesive tapes. One advantage of using tape
edge of the rim. Make sure the witness line is even is that it can be done fairly quickly. However, this may
with the rim edge all the way around the tyre. not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on
the rim. In the event of a roadside puncture the tape
will often cling to the dismounted tyre and your spare
tyre may not bond to the rim sufficiently well.
Tubular tyre glue
Nevertheless, you should still remove the spare tyre Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before
again after completing your tour. To achieve a strong- you start to glue the tyre onto the rim. Gluing the tyre
er bond you can then retreat the adhesive bed and the is easiest with the wheel clamped in a truing stand or
tyre with glue and remount the tyre. mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.
If your wheels have very high rim edges, unscrew the With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to
valve core from the valve with special mounting tools create a good adhesive bed. Spread the tyre glue
and mount a valve extension instead. Then screw the evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the
valve core into the extended valve. Now you can in- entire circumference of the rim.
flate and deflate the mounted tyre via the extended Mounting the valve extension Applying the tyre glue directly from the tube
valve in the usual way. Leave a section of five to ten centimetres without glue
at a place just opposite the valve to make it easier to
Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become remove the tyre again at a later date.
round and then stick the valve through the hole in the
rim. Starting from the valve and working in both di- With a little practice you will be able to apply the glue
rections press the tyre into the rim all the way round. straight from the tube. If this does not work at first
If you are unable to mount it completely on the rim or you might find it easier to use a stiff brush. If you are
if this would require excessive force, leave off trying, using tyre glue from a can you will need a brush in
since it might not work with force alone. any case. Let the tyre glue dry until it loses its sticky
liquid touch. This can take up to a few hours. In the
After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and same way add another two thin films of glue and let
see whether the tyre runs true. The area where the Checking the true running with brake them dry. Leave the wheel as it is at least until the Stick the valve of the slightly inflated tube through the hole in the rim
valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened which next day.
leads to a vertical runout of the rim and makes the
wheel jolt during the ride. Remove the burrs from Before mounting the tyre also apply a film of glue to
the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it the base tape. To complete the adhesive bed add one
with a big drill, a triangular scraper or a round file. If last film of glue. Let the topmost layer dry for a short
you have carbon rims, be careful when removing the time and, while it still feels syrupy, place the wheel
burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert the Tyre glues do not only stick on rims and on the ground with the valve hole facing upward. In-
file only from the outside to the inside and not vice ! tyres, they also cling quite stubbornly to flate the tyre until it starts to round and then stick
versa, otherwise the fibres of the synthetic matrix fingers and clothes. This makes it advisable to the valve through the valve hole and press it firmly
might fray out. Seal the area with instant glue sub- wear old clothes when mounting tubulars. against the rim. Make sure the sides of the tyre do not
sequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved touch the adhesive bed, since your tyre will otherwise
valve fitting to the rim. If time permits, you can leave look smudgy right away.
When mounting a tyre on a rim that has
the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few days to i
make the final mounting easier. already been used, it may be necessary
to carefully remove glue residues and dirt with
Clean the base of the rim from any grease or oil using emery cloth. Be careful not to damage the carbon
material. When you are done, wipe the rim with a Before dismounting a wheel, be sure to
a rag soaked in spirit or benzine.
soft rag and benzine. ! read chapters “The wheels” and “How to
use quick-releases and thru axles”.
If you have left the section opposite the valve hole MOUNTING WHEELS
free of glue, you need not be concerned about glue
smearing on the ground or dirt getting into the glue Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse of dis-
when you place the wheel on the ground. mounting. Make sure the wheel is correctly seated
in the drop-outs and accurately centred between
Take hold of the tyre right and left of the valve with the fork legs or the rear and chainstays. Check the
both hands, pull it vigorously downward and work it proper seat of the quick-release (see chapter “How
bit by bit into the base of the rim until you have about to use quick-releases and thru axles”) and connect, if
20 centimetres left to go. necessary, the brake cable immediately or close the
Heaving the tyre into the rim base
release lever!
Checking the true running with brake pads
Starting from the top again on either side of the valve
pull the tyre down with your hands, letting them
gradually slip down to the not yet mounted section.
Keeping the tyre taut by holding your fingers against
the rim and your thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel
against your hips. Heave the tyre with both thumbs
into the base of the rim.
Improper mounting can lead to malfunc- Improper mounting may cause malfunc-
i tion or even brake failure. It is therefore If the tyre fabric was, however, ruined by
tion or tyre damage. It is therefore abso-
lutely necessary to follow the manufacturer’s op- absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer’s a perforating object, replace the tyre to be
erating instructions enclosed with the delivery. operating instructions enclosed with the delivery. on the safe side.
102 HEADSET HEADSET 103
Check the secure seat of the stem after Do not tighten this bolt, as it is intended for
Riding the bike with a loose headset in- having adjusted the bearings, by holding ! adjusting the play!
creases the stress on fork and bearing the front wheel between your knees and trying to
considerably. This may damage the bearing or twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel. Check the secure seat of the stem after
lead to a fork break with serious consequences! Otherwise, a loose stem can throw you off your you have adjusted the bearing! A loose Bear in mind that by overtightening the
Risk of an accident! bicycle. stem may throw you off your bike! bolts the stem can crush the steerer tube.
104 HEADSET HEADSET 105
TRANSPORT OF YOUR Rear carriers are becoming more and more popular.
Their big advantage over roof carriers is that you do
not have to lift up the bicycles so high to attach them.
CANYON BIKE Make sure the fastenings do not create any damage
to the fork or frame. Risk of breakage!
TAKING YOUR CANYON BY CAR
Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies
There are several ways of transporting your Canyon with the relevant safety standards of your country!
by car. Canyon recommends putting the bike into the
boot to take it with you. TAKING YOUR CANYON BY PLANE
The Canyon BikeGuard
Bikes do take away a lot of space inside a boot, but If you intend to take your Canyon with you when you
they are also better protected against dirt, theft and go on a trip by plane, pack it into the BikeGuard or
Transport by car
damage. BikeShuttle.
Take, however, care that the cables, lights and Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them
wires and in particular the gears do not get dam- inside the suitcase or cardboard box. Do not forget to
If you have disc brakes, be sure to mount
! the safety locks before transporting your
aged. Protect the bike with padding material such take the necessary tools, a torque wrench, bits and
as blankets or the like. This is also a good idea, this manual with you to be able to assemble the bi-
cyclocross bike with the wheels dismounted.
when your bike is heavily soiled, so that the dirt cycle and to get it ready for use at your destination.
does not wipe off on the seat upholstery.
Make sure to secure your bike. In the event your Canyon has not been
! packed for dispatch according to the en-
If transporting the bicycle inside the boot is impos- closed packing instructions, you have no right to
sible, nearly every car accessory dealer and car claim repair of possibly occurring transport dam-
company offers carrier systems which allow bicycle age from Canyon Bicycles GmbH. If you have disc brakes, be sure to mount
transport without disassembly. The usual design ! the safety locks before transporting your
involves rails fixed to the roof of the car onto which cyclocross bike with the wheels dismounted.
the bicycles are fixed with clamps gripping the down Do not use a bike carrier system on which The Canyon BikeShuttle
tubes. the bike has to be mounted upside down,
i.e. with handlebars and saddle fixed face down Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to
to the rack. This way of fastening the bike sub- ! protect them inside the suitcase or card-
jects the handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post board box.
Pull the brake lever and secure it with a to extreme stress during transport and can lead
! strong rubber band, when transporting a to failure of these parts! Do not buy a bike carrier
cyclocross bike. system where the front wheel has to be removed Please make sure the lights and the Check whether your bicycle is properly
i
and your Canyon is secured by the fork. number plate of your car are not hidden fastened before and at regular intervals
from view. For some carriers a second exterior during the ride. A bicycle that detaches from the
Secure your Canyon when transporting it rear view mirror is required by the road traffic
! inside a car. In the event of an accident
roof carrier may endanger other road users.
Transporting Canyon road bikes on con- regulations.
unsecured loads inside a car may be an additional ! ventional bike carriers with clamps is not
risk for the occupants. Often you will find it nec- permitted. Most clamps are potential sources of Bear in mind that your car has a greater
essary to dismount one or even both wheels to damage to large-diameter frame tubes! Carbon Read the operating instructions of your ! overall height with the bicycle on it. Meas-
frames are particularly susceptible to being dam- i
load the bike into the car. Be sure to read chapter bicycle carrier and observe the maximum ure the overall height and place a sign stating the
“The wheels”, notably section “Repairing punc- aged irreparably. Unvisible damage occurring on load capacity and recommended or prescribed height somewhere in the cockpit or on the steer-
tures”, before removing a wheel. this occasion may lead to severe crashes. driving speed. ing wheel so that it can be easily seen.
108 CARE AND INSPECTION CARE AND INSPECTION 109
Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter
or in sea air harm your Canyon. You should therefore
make a habit of regularly cleaning all the components Check condition of chain
of your Canyon and protecting them from corrosion. Check all lightweight components
If you regularly look after your Canyon during the First service:
season, you will not need to take any special pre- A special maintenance schedule has been developed
cautions when storing it for a short time, apart from by our experienced technicians. On the first kilo-
securing it against theft. It is advisable to store your metres/miles, for example, the wheels may be subject
Canyon in a dry and airy place. to a certain bedding in process or Bowden and brake
cables may stretch, making gear shifting imprecise.
There are some things to bear in mind when putting Depending on how much you cycle, the repair of worn
your Canyon away for the winter: down parts may be necessary already. In this case
Store the bike with the chain on outmost sprocket and smallest you will be contacted by a service technician before-
chainring The Canyon torque wrench
Inflated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when hand.
the bike is not used for a long time. If your Canyon
is left standing on flat tyres for an extended period, Regular annual service:
this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres. Following a long and challenging season we recom-
It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire mend that you have your bike thoroughly checked.
bike or to check the tyre pressure regularly. Who could do this better than those who have built
Clean your Canyon and protect it against corrosion your bike?
as described above.
Dismount the saddle and allow for any moisture The annual service will be carried out by our skilled
that may have entered to dry away. Spray a little staff according to a maintenance schedule tailored to
finely atomized oil into the seat tube (except for your bicycle type.
carbon frames).
Store your Canyon in a dry place. Check the air pressure at regular intervals
Switch the gear to the smallest chainring and the
smallest sprocket. This relaxes the cables and
springs as much as possible.
In case you pack your Canyon to send it in To be able to enjoy your Canyon for many
i ! years it needs to be serviced regularly.
to the Canyon workshop, be sure to strictly
follow the packing instructions “How to pack your The schedule given in chapter “Service and main-
road bike” enclosed with the BikeGuard. tenance schedule” is a rough guide for cyclists
Keep cleaning agents and chain oil away who ride their bike between 1,000 and 2,500 km
from the brake pads and brake surfaces of (620 and 1,550 miles) a year. If your Canyon does
In particular lightweight components may harder service, either because your mileage is
the rim! Otherwise the brake might fail throwing
have a reduced service life. For your own consistently greater or because you ride a great
you off your bike!
safety make sure to have the components listed deal on poor road surfaces or cross-country, it
in chapter “Service and maintenance schedule” will require correspondingly shorter maintenance
If your Canyon has carbon rims, do not checked at the indicated intervals and replaced, periods. This includes frequent rides in the rain or
hang it on the rims! Risk of breakage! if necessary. generally in moist conditions, as well.
112 CARE AND INSPECTION SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 113
Component
What to do Before every Monthly Annually Other
ride intervals
RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES
Wheels/ Check wheel trueness and tension •
spokes Component Bolted connection Shimano* Campagnolo** SRAM ***
Wheels/ True and/or retrue X Rear derailleur Mount (at frame/derailleur hanger) 8-10 Nm 15 Nm 5-7 Nm
spokes If necessary Cable clamp 5-7 Nm 6 Nm 5-7 Nm
Handlebar and Check X Pulley bolt 2.5-3 Nm
stem, carbon At least Front derailleur Mount to frame 5-7 Nm 5 Nm 5-7 Nm
and aluminium every
2 years Braze-on mount for direct fastening 7 Nm
Replace X Cable clamp 6-7 Nm 5 Nm 5 Nm
After fall or Dual Control Lever Mounting bracket bolt 6-8 Nm 10 Nm 6-8 Nm
after 6 years /Ergopower/ (Allen bolt)
Headset Check bearing play • Doubletap
Headset Regrease X Hole covering 0.3-0.5 Nm
Metal Polish (except for • Bolt for cable stop on 1.5-2 Nm
surfaces rim sides) At least frame (screwdriver)
every
6 months Hub Quick-release lever 5-7.5 Nm
Hubs Check bearing play • Counter nut for bearing adjustment with 15-17 Nm
Hubs Regrease X quick-release hubs
Pedals Check bearing play X Free-wheel hub Sprocket cluster lock ring 30-50 Nm 40 Nm 40
Pedals Clean locking mechanism • (11-speed)
Grease 50
Frame-fork- Grease Annually (10-speed)
unit Crank set Crank mount (cotterless, grease-free) 32-38 Nm
Rear derailleur/ Clean, grease • Crank mount Shimano Octalink 35-50 Nm
Front derailleur Crank mount Shimano Hollowtech II 12-15 Nm
Quick-release Check seat • Crank mount (Isis) 31-34 Nm
Bolts and Check and/or retighten X Crank mount (Gigapipe) 48-54 Nm
nuts Spline 42 Nm
Valves Check seat • Shaft fixing bolt Ultra Torque 42-60 Nm
Stem/ Dismount and regrease or X Chainring fixing 8-11 Nm 8 Nm 12-14 (steel)
Seat post reapply carbon assembly paste
(Caution: Do not grease carbon parts) 8-9 (alu)
Cables: gear/ Remove and grease X Sealed cartridge Sealed cartridge housing (square head) 50-70 Nm 70 Nm
brakes Bottom bracket Bottom bracket shell (Shimano 35-50 Nm 34-41 Nm
Hollowtech II, SRAM Gigapipe)
Jobs marked “•” you should be able to do yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experience
and suitable tools, this including e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures without
Octalink 50-70 Nm
delay. If you have any questions, please call our service hotline at +44 (0) 208 5496001. Pedal Pedal axle 35-55 Nm 40 Nm 47-54 Nm
Jobs marked “x” should be left to an experienced and skilled bicycle expert (e.g. in an authorized, specialist bicycle Shoe Cleat bolts 5-6 Nm
workshop). Feel free to call our service hotline at +44 (0) 208 5496001. Spike 4 Nm
116 RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING TORQUES 117
Canyon frame:
Component Bolted connection Shimano* Campagnolo** SRAM *** Bottle cage bolts 5 Nm
Side-pull brake Brake pad fixing bolt 5-7 Nm 8 Nm 8 Nm Replaceable derailleur hanger 1.5 Nm
Cable fixing bolt 6-8 Nm 6-8 Nm 5 Nm Canyon seat post clamp:
Brake fastening bolts 8-10 Nm 10 Nm 8-10 Nm The bolt torques for your Canyon seat post clamp and
your stem are indicated on the components them-
Seat post Fixing bolt of 20-29 Nm *** 18-22 Nm ****
selves.
saddle clamping at seat post head
Please use the following torques, unless otherwise
indicated by the stem or seat post manufacturer on Tightening torque
* www.shimano.com the component itself or in the respective assembly
** www.campagnolo.com instructions.
*** www.sram.com
**** These are guide values given by the above-mentioned component manufacturers.
Stem:
Observe any values given in the component manufacturers’ operating instructions.
M5 bolts 4.5-5.5 Nm
M6 bolts 8-9.6 Nm
Some components have the maximum per- Adjusting bolt (on top)
i missible torque printed on them. Observe of Aheadset®-stems 0.5-2 Nm
these limit values wherever you find them.
Seat post
Saddle clamp at seat post head All bolted connections on the components
Seat posts with single bolt 20-24 Nm of your Canyon have to be tightened care-
Seat post with two bolts in line 6-9 Nm fully and checked regularly to ensure the safe
Seat post with two bolts side-by-side operation of your bike. This is best done with a
in direction of motion 12-14 Nm torque wrench that switches off as soon as the
Speedmax 5 Nm
desired torque has been reached. Tighten the
Monorail 8 Nm
bolts carefully by approaching the maximum per-
missible torque in small steps. Check the secure
seat of the component, as described in the rele-
vant chapters. For parts without torque specifica-
tions, tighten the bolts gradually and check in be-
tween whether the component is already fastened
sufficiently, as described in the relevant chapters.
Do not exceed the maximum torque.
If your bike has a carbon fork steerer Also read the enclosed manuals of the
i i
(which you can tell by the black colour), component manufacturers, if necessary,
do not exceed 6 Nm when clamping the stem. or visit the Canyon website at www.canyon.com
The Canyon torque wrench Mounting the handlebars with the Canyon torque wrench
118 LEGAL REQUIREMENTS WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE 119
A NOTE ON WEAR
GUARANTEE
Some components of your bike are subject to wear
due to their function. The rate of wear depends on Over and above the statutory warranty we give a vol-
care and maintenance as well as on the way you use untary guarantee of altogether 6 years on frames and
your bike (kilometres travelled, rides in the rain, dirt, forks of racing and triathlon machines.
salt etc.). Bikes that are often left standing in the
open may also be subject to increased wear through This guarantee runs from the date of purchase and
weathering. only applies to claims made by the initial buyer. It
does not cover paint damage. We reserve ourselves
Brake pads with worn down wear indicators, i.e. grooves, (bottom the right to repair defective frames or forks or to re-
These components require regular care and mainte- brake pad) must be replaced by original spare parts
nance. Nevertheless, sooner or later they will reach place them with the relevant successor model. These Six-year guarantee
the end of their service life, depending on conditions issues can be claimed under guarantee only. Addi-
and intensity of use. tional costs, such as assembly and transport costs
etc., shall not be borne by us.
Parts that have reached their limit of wear must be
replaced. This applies to the following parts: The guarantee does not cover damage caused by
chain, improper or other than the intended use, such as
cables, neglect (poor care and maintenance), crashes, over-
grip coverings or bar tape, loading or resulting from changes made to the frame
chainrings, or fork or from the mounting or remounting of addi-
sprockets, tional components. Damage resulting from jumps or
pulleys, other types of overstress are likewise not covered by
Have the thickness of your rims checked at the latest when you are the guarantee.
gears cables,
through your second set of brake pads
tyres,
saddle covering (leather) and
brake pads. RIMS WITH RIM BRAKES
The brake pads of rim brakes are subject to wear due Braking causes wear not only to the brake pads but
to their function. If you use your bike for compet- also to the rims. Therefore, check your rims regular-
itive cycling or in hilly terrain, they may have to be ly, e.g. when pumping up the tyres. Rims with wear
replaced quite frequently. Regularly check the condi- indicators have rings or a gap that come into view
tion of the pads and have them replaced by a dealer. when the rim reaches its limit of wear. Take note of
the specifications given on the rim. Ask an expert to
examine the remaining thickness of the rims at the
latest when you are through your second set of brake
pads.
Signs of deformation or fine cracks that appear in the Canyon road, time trial, triathlon or track
sides of a rim when you increase the tyre pressure are bikes are high-end sports equipment, rep-
an indication that the rim has reached the end of its resenting lightweight construction as pinnacle of
service life. In this case the rim must be replaced. engineering. Also be a professional when it comes
to handling of the material. Misuse, unprofession-
al assembly or insufficient servicing can render
the racing machine unsafe. Risk of an accident!
122 CRASH REPLACEMENT
CRASH REPLACEMENT
In the event of an accident or severe crash, the high
forces exerted on the frame and the fork can lead to
structural failure during subsequent use. With our
Crash Replacement (CR) program we offer you the
opportunity to replace your damaged Canyon frame
at a greatly reduced cost. This offer is valid up to
three years after the date of purchase. You’ll receive
the same or a similar frame from our current product
range (without add-on parts such as seat post, front
derailleur or stem).
Note: This service is not intended for secure transactions such as banking, social media, email, or purchasing. Use at your own risk. We assume no liability whatsoever for broken pages.
Alternative Proxies: