10/21/2023

FABRIC DIMENSIONS
Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer(Technical)
Dr. M A Wazed Miah Textile Engineering College

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Fabric Dimensions
Fabric Length :
Fabric length is the distance from end
to end, along the selvedge of a fabric.
ISI suggested the following 3 methods
to measure the length of a fabric-
1. By using a measuring table
2. By using measuring scale
3. By using a measuring machine
(Trumeter)
Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Fabric Dimensions

Determination of Length
1. First method (By measuring table)
Equipment: A smooth surfaced flat measuring table, a little over 5m long and having width not less than the width
of fabric under test, with parallel marking in meters and centimeters on all sides.
2. Second method (by measuring scale)
Equipment:
a) A smooth surfaced flat table, a little over 5 m long and having width not less than the width of fabric under test.
b) A measuring scale graduated in meters and centimeters.
3. Third method (By measuring Machine)
Equipment: A measuring machine equipped with a dial to record the lengths of fabric in meter correct to two
places of decimal.
Procedure: Take one of the pieces of fabric constituting the test sample. Note down the length marked on it.
Open out the fabric and feed one of its ends in full width to the measuring machine. Run the measuring machine
till the full length of the fabric passes through it. Read from the dial length of the piece in meters correct to two
places of decimal.

Fabric Dimensions
Width measurements
Collection of samples from fabrics :
Samples should be collected from at least three places from fabric e.g.
two samples from the two sides and one from the middle.
Conditioning of test samples (Standard Atmospheric Condition) :
It is recommended that the fabric should be conditioned in the standard
testing atmosphere
65+-2%RH
20+-2oC ( or 27+-2oC for tropical countries ) temperature in a fully relaxed
state.
Fabric width :
Fabric width is the distance from one selvedge to the
other, measured perpendicular to the length of the fabric. Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Instruments for measuring fabric

thickness :
1.Reynolds and Branson thickness tester.
2.Heal’s thickness gauge.
3.Shirley thickness gauge.
4.Mag Ana thickness tester

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Heals thickness gauge

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Fabric Dimensions

Fabric Thread Density Testing

For Woven Fabric:
 Picks per inch : The number of weft thread per inch is called picks per inch.
 Ends per inch : The number of warp thread per inch is called ends per inch.
For Knitted Fabric:
 Courses per cm : Course is a row of loops across the width of the knitted
fabric and is measured in courses/centimeter.
 Wales per cm : Wale is a column of loops along the length of the knitted
fabric and is measured in wales/centimeter.

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Fabric Dimensions
Various Types of Thread
Counting Systems and Their
Application :
Counting glass/Pick glass : Most
widely used method. Can be
used to count courses/inch and
wales/inch.
Traversing thread counter : Like
pick glass but improved
instrument where the counting
pin is moved by means of a
handle. Can be used to count
courses/inch and wales/inch.
Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Fabric Dimensions
Fabric dissection method : Most authentic and reliable method and used to
count threads of fabric which are too difficult to measure by other methods.
Taper grating and line grating : Used in cases where
(a) the test results are required in a very short period of time,
(b) where a large number fabric samples are required to test in a very short
period of time.
(c) Where the exact test result is unimportant rather a good approximation is
required.
(d) Normally fashion designers use this type of instruments.

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Fabric Dimensions
Identification of Warp and Weft of a Fabric
1. The direction of selvedge is warp direction.
2. In most cases EPI/EPCm is more than PPI/PPCm
3. Normally count of warp is finer than weft
4. Generally warp yarn is more twisted yarn than weft yarns.
5. If any yarn contains any size particle then the sized yarn is warp
yarn.
6. Normally stripe effect (both woven and printed) is done in the
warp direction.
7. Warp yarns are relatively hairy yarn.
8. Warp crimp is expected to be less than weft crimp due to high
warp tension on the loom.
Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Fabric Dimensions

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Fabric Dimensions

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Yarn Crimp
Due to the interlacing of warp and weft threads, a certain amount of waviness is
imparted to the warp and weft threads in a fabric. This waviness is called crimp.
When warp and weft interlace in fabric, they follow a curved way. Crimp in a fabric
is the measure of this waviness. Crimp of yarn is measured in crimp%.

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Crimp Percentage
It is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and
the distance between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as a
percentage.

𝒍 𝑷
Crimp%, C = X100
𝑷

Where, l = straightened thread length

P= length of the thread while in the cloth

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Crimp Amplitude
This refers to the extent to which the threads are deflected
from the central plane of the cloth.

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Influence of Crimp on Fabric Properties

1. Resistance to Abrasion: Increase
2. Shrinkage : increase
3. Fabric Behavior During Strength Testing: high extension
per load increase.
4. Faults in Fabric: Reduce strength, stripes in yarn dyed
fabric.
5. Fabric Design: appropriate extensibility, appearance
6. Fabric Costing

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Derive a relation between crimp percentage and take up percentage

Crimp Percentage:
Crimp Percentage is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and the distance
between the ends of the thread while in cloth, expressed as a percentage.
L-p
Crimp%, C = …… X 100 ……………………….(1)
p
Straightened length – crimped length
= …………………………………………………………….
Crimped length
Take up percentage:
Take up percentage or crimp rigidity is a measure of the ability of textured yarn to receive from stretch and is
related to the bulking properties of the yarn before weaving and the length of yarn in the fabric after weaving,
expressed as a percentage of the length of yarn before weaving, is called take up percentage.
L-p
Take up percentage, T = …….. X 100 ……………………… (2)
L
Where,
T = Take up percentage
L = Length of yarn before weaving
p = Length of yarn in fabric after weaving

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

From equation (1)

L-p
C = …….. X 100
p
=> C/100 = L/p – 1
=> L/p = C/100 + 1
100 + C
=> L/p = ………… …………………(3)
100

From equation (2)

L-p
T = ……….. X 100
L
= (1- p/L) X 100
= {1 – 100/(100+C)} X 100 ……………………….. [from equation 3]
100C
So, T = ………… ……………………………(4)
100+C
Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

To express percentage crimp in terms of take up %, equation (4) is

solved as follows:

100C
T = ……………
100+C

=> 100C = 100T + CT

=> 100C – CT = 100T

100 T
=> C = ……………. ……………………..(5)
100 – T

Equation (4) and (5) are two relations between Crimp% and Take
up%
Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Determination of Crimp Percentage of Woven

Fabric
Theory
Percentage crimp is defined
as the mean difference
between the straightened
thread length and the
distance between the ends
of the thread while in the
cloth, expressed as a
percentage. From the
definition of crimp two values
must be known, the cloth
length from which the yarns is
removed and the
straightened length of the
thread. In order to straighten
the thread, tension must be
applied, just sufficient to Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC
remove all the kinks without
stretching the yarn. In

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

From those two values we can calculate the crimp percentage with the following formula:
l–p
c = ———- x 100
p
Where, c = crimp, l = uncrimped length and p = crimped length.

Apparatus:
1. Crimp tester
2. Fabric sample
3. Scissor
4. Scale

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Working Procedure:
 At first we have to select the warp or weft way of the fabric. Then we should
select the test length of the yarn. According to test length we will cut the flap
of fabric.
 Now a single yarn is to remove from the flap of fabric carefully as discussed in
theory.
 One end of the yarn is gripped in the fixed gripper of the machine and the
other end is gripped in the other setting the test length.
 Now the tension for the sample is found out from its count and it is set in the
machine.
 After that we will apply tension along the yarn length with hand by taking
away the other end of yarn far from the first end.
 As soon as the white mark on the tension bar is on the same line of its both
sides white mark, we will stop far away the other end.
 The length of the yarn after applying tension is taken from the scale.
 Now from this two lengths crimp percentage is calculated from the given
formula Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Try yourself
 Why and how crimp is formed
 Normally which crimp is higher, warp crimp weft crimp? Why?

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

4. To produce 1500 yds of woven fabric having specification x56” and warp and weft crimp is 4%
and 5% respectively. How many kg of weft yarn will you require? Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

CRIMP OF YARN IN FABRIC

Applying
count
formula

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

Mahmudul Hasan
Lecturer (Textile), DWMTEC

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