Experiment No-01

Dismantling & assembling of hermetic compressors like reciprocating. Identify the parts
and rectify the defects.

Tools required- 1) fixed and ring spanners 2)screw drivers 3) Jack and Holding device 4)
Measuring instruments

Dismentaling Procedure

 Disconnect all auxiliary lines like discharge, air inlet, loader air, cooling lines
 Decouple coupling to disconnect with driver and remove crank case foundation bolts to transfer
total unit to workshop for carrying overhaul.
 Remove the both suction valves with loader and discharge valve from head.
 open all inspection doors provided and loose the nut connects cross head and piston an takeout
piston assembly with rod through head side. while removing care should be take about piston
rings falling.
 dismantle piston plates, piston rings, expander rings, wear band and rod.
 Remove cylinder house with crank case with distance piece and disconnect distance piece
dismantle wiper packings and gland.
 Remove wrist pin and take out cross head
 Dismantle connecting rod big end and bearing cover and remove split big end bearing and take
connecting rods outside
 Remove coupling hub and flywheel
 Remove lube oil pump connected with outboard of crank shaft and inboard cover
 Remove main bearings of connecting rod top half and take out crank shaft outside
 Remove bottom half of main bearings
 Now complete dismantling is over. perfect inspection of each and every parts to be done while
and after dismantling of any damage, score, break and etc.,
 Better is changing new one instead of reconditioning damaged parts
 assembly is the reverse procedure of dismantling.
 When assembling the following factors should be considered are main bearing radial and thrust
clearances, connecting rod big end bearing and small end pin clearance, web deflection, rotor
runout, wear band clearance, piston plate clearance with cylinder bore, bore surface finish,
piston ring end and side clearance, piston end clearance, oil tubes condition, valve lift an
passing, loader piston freeness action, wiper packing clearance, free rotation and alignment.
CHECKING THE CLEARANCE DURING OVERHAUL PROCEDURE:
1. PISTON END CLERANCE
2. PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE
3. PISTON RING END CLEARANCE
4. DIAMETRICAL CLEARANCE BETWEEN PISTON WITH CYLINDER / LINEAR,
5. RIDER RING DIAMETRICAL CLEARANCE
6. WEB DEFLECTION
7. PISTON ROD RUNOUT
8. CONNECTING ROD BIG & SMALL END BEARING CLEARANCE
9. CRANK SHAFT MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE
10. CRANK SHAFT THRUST ALLOWANCE
11. CROSS HEAD WITH CROSS SIDE CLEARANCE
12. GAS AND OIL WIPER PACK CLEARANCE
 EXPERIMENT NO -02

Refrigeration Compressor Failure: Cause & Cure – Part 1

Compressor failure is a big, expensive problem in the refrigeration industry. Compressor manufacturers are concerned
about failure of their product, since it can reflect negatively on them.

All compressor manufacturers do spot teardown analysis on returned compressors. Occasionally, a compressor
manufacturer will teardown all returned compressors, for a period of time, to analyze them and determine the cause or
causes of failure. This is expensive, but the information gathered helps the manufacturer to improve the product, the
manufacturing process, and literature regarding installation and maintenance.
Recently, a major manufacturer of compressors conducted a yearlong teardown study and analyzed their
findings. One third of the compressors returned were so badly damaged that a cause of failure could not be
determined. One third were perfectly good compressors — there was nothing wrong with them! One third were found to
have failed, due to system problems.
Concentrating on the third where the cause of failure could be identified revealed that the reasons for failure had not
changed from other year’s teardown studies. Compressors were still being “killed” by system problems. System problems,
if corrected, would have saved the compressor.
Broken valves, scored shafts, bent rods, overheating, single phasing, misapplication, improper operation, and not
properly cleaning up a system when replacing the original compressor are evidence of system problems. Replacement
compressors failed at a rate four times greater than that of original compressors.
The ability to disassemble a semi-hermetic compressor in the field allows the service technician to inspect the internal
parts of the compressor and helps to determine the cause of failure. With a full hermetic compressor, identifying a cause of
failure by inspecting internal parts is not possible, since the shell is not usually cut open in the field.
In any case, when replacing a compressor, the technician should go over the entire system to locate the reason, or
reasons, the compressor failed, keeping in mind the compressor was “killed.”
COMPRESSORS FAIL BECAUSE OF:
(Items are not listed in any order of importance or number of occurrences.)
• Slugging
• Floodback
• Flooded Starts
• Loss or Lack of Lubrication
• Contamination
• Overheating
• Electrical Problems
Full hermetic compressors will have the same broken parts for a specific failure as a semi-hermetic would, and
consequently the symptoms and causes of failure are the same.

Slugging
“Slugging” usually results in a broken component. Slugging is a short-term return of a mass of liquid, consisting of
refrigerant or oil, or as a mixture of both. The slug enters the cylinders of the compressor instead of super-heated
vapor. Slugging almost always occurs on startup, but a very rapid change in system operating conditions can also cause
slugging. A loud knocking noise heard at the compressor is evidence of slugging. The noise is produced by hydraulic
compression – the compressor is trying to do something it wasn’t designed to do – compress a liquid. Extremely high
pressure will be reached in a cylinder. A hole may be punched in the top of a piston. More often, the suction, discharge, or
both valves will be bent or broken. Cylinder head or valve plate gaskets will blow out at the internal partition between the
high and low side.
If a compressor continues to run with this damage, that head where the failure occurred will run very hot compared to
any other cylinders. Slugs can break connecting rods, even crankshafts. If a technician finds a compressor with broken
or severely damaged internal parts, he or she should suspect slugging.
Refrigerant will condense in any cold part of a system during the off cycle. The coldest parts of the system are the
evaporator and suction line. If allowed, they will collect the refrigerant and oil mixture. On the next start-up, this liquid
mixture will return to the compressor as a slug. Using a “pump down” system of control can prevent this condition. Pump
down control stops off cycle migration of refrigerant to any part of the system, including the compressor’s crankc ase, which,
we will see later, can cause lack of proper lubrication.
An oversized TXV will hunt under a light load and can cause a slug. It is best to slightly undersize rather than oversize
a TXV.
Poor suction line sizing or poor installation of the suction line also causes slugging. The design and installation of a
suction line is one of the most critical parts of a whole refrigeration system (see Info-Tec 12).

Floodback/Flooded Starts
Flooding is the continuous return of liquid refrigerant as droplets in the suction vapor instead of all super-heated
vapor. This floodback washes oil off of bearing surfaces. Refrigerant is a lousy lubricator. All bearing surfaces will
prematurely wear. Overheating will result. On a compressor with a crankcase sight glass, flooding can be observed
as constant foaming of the oil during run. Floodback is always due to a problem with the expansion device.
If the expansion device is a TXV, check its installation. Is the bulb properly located and insulated? Is it the correct
tonnage? Poor installation of the wrong TXV cannot be compensated for by valve adjustment.
Check super-heat. Too low a super-heat allows more refrigerant to the low side of the system than the load will
require. Saturated, not super-heated refrigerant will have liquid droplets in the vapor, gradually washing the oil off lubricated
surfaces.
If a cap tube or other fixed orifice expansion device is used, the system is critically charged. Those devices do not
react much to load changes. Overcharging will increase the head pressure, which increases the flow rate through the
expansion device until there is too much flow available for the heat transfer in the evaporator to boil the entire refrigerant
off. Result – floodback.
Low load is a major problem of most refrigeration systems. The most carefully designed and installed system will, at
some time, suffer from low load running conditions.
The single best device to protect the compressor from slugging and floodback is the suction line
accumulator.
Accumulators are most often found on low temperature systems, but all refrigeration systems can benefit from this
relatively low-cost protective device.
Flooded starts are the result of the oil in the crankcase-absorbing refrigerant during the off cycle. The amount
absorbed will vary according to the temperature and pressure in the crankcase. The refrigerant and oil mixture will stratify,
with the refrigerant at the bottom of the crankcase, where a bearing and/or oil pump intake is located.
On startup, bearing lubrication will be marginal at best, and as the crankcase pressure drops, the refrigerant will boil,
flashing to a gas, causing “foaming.” This foam clogs oil passages and may even enter the cylinders, resulting in slugging.
All semi-hermetics use an oil pump to force oil to bearing surfaces. These oil pumps will not pump foam. Full
hermetic compressors rely on splash lubrication and semi-hermetics also utilize some splash lubrication. Foam will not
“splash.”
As previously noted, pump down helps keep excess refrigerant out of the crankcase. Crankcase heaters should be
used, and if present, should be checked that they are not burned-out and “on” at the proper time. Flooded starts can be
minimized on cap tube systems by having the proper charge in the system.
 EXPERIMENT NO -03

Refrigeration Compressor Failure: Cause & Cure – Part 2

Compressor failure is a big, expensive problem in the refrigeration industry. Compressor manufacturers are concerned about failure
of their product, since it can reflect negatively on them.

All compressor manufacturers do spot teardown analysis on returned compressors. Occasionally, a compressor
manufacturer will teardown all returned compressors, for a period of time, to analyze them and determine the caus e or causes of
failure. This is expensive, but the information gathered helps the manufacturer to improve the product, the manufacturing process,
and literature regarding installation and maintenance.

Loss or Lack of Lubrication

Loss or lack of lubrication could be said to be the major cause of compressor failure, especially if we include floodback and
flooded starts. Other causes of lack of lubrication could be as simple as not enough oil in the crankcase to begin with, to as
complex as needing a double riser suction line.
During operation, oil should leave the crankcase, travel throughout the system, returning to the compressor at the same rate
that it left the compressor. Oil will leave the crankcase of the compressor at an excessive rate because of foaming and flooding.
Reasons for oil not returning include low refrigerant velocity, low loads, traps in the suction line, suction line piping err ors, and
short cycling. All can cause a lack of lubrication.
The results of a lack of oil are overheating, because of excess friction, and finally, a “seized-up” compressor. The internal
parts of the compressor will show uniformly worn and scored bearing surfaces.

Contamination
Contamination was found to be the major cause of replacement compressor failure. It bears repeating that only two
things should be inside any refrigeration system: refrigerant and oil. Anything else is a contaminant! Air, moisture, non-
condensables, chips, oxides, scale, brazing, or soldering flux, any “dirt” that gets into a system accidentally or through poor service
techniques is a contaminant that will lead to sure and swift failure!
Air in a system will displace refrigerant in a condenser resulting in high head pressure and higher than normal
temperatures. The temperature at the valves of a compressor is about 50F hotter than the discharge line temperature. This high
temperature will cause carbonization of oil on the discharge valves. A build up will occur, and in a short time, the valves will
leak. Leaking valves cause higher temperatures, causing more build up – finally, total failure.
Moisture in a system will react with refrigerant to form acids. Acids can cause electrical failures by eating at the wires on
electrical terminals, can etch parts, and can travel throughout the system eroding other components.
All contaminants must be eliminated. A thorough evacuation will eliminate air and moisture. Solid contaminants, chips and
dirt, can be trapped in strainers, filters, or filter driers.
Most modern day filter driers have acid removal capability. Replace the filter drier, and if the compressor is semi-hermetic,
change the oil, until an acid test proves the system is free from acid.
Make good installation and service practices a habit. Keeping contaminants out of a system in the first place is better than
any procedure to remove them.
Replacing a “burned-out” compressor presents the ultimate challenge in eliminating contaminants.
It is best to assume that all burnouts are bad burnouts and proceed accordingly. The chemical reactions that take place when
a compressor burns out will create a lot of acid, moisture, and solids in the form of carbonized oil and “soot.” The soot will coat the
inside of the discharge line at least to the first elbow, and depending on the size of the system, some distance beyond the
elbow. The suction line may even be coated six inches to a few feet from the compressor. It is best to cutout, remove, and replace
these coated sections of line with clean, new tubing (Government regulations no longer allow cleaning up by pumping R-11 through
systems). An oversized liquid line filter drier should be installed along with a suction line filter designed for high acid removal and
having access fittings for checking pressure drop through the suction line filter. They should be installed to facilitate easy
replacement.
Deep or triple evacuation of the system is an absolute necessity to remove air and moisture before putting the system back
into operation.
Of course, the technician has found the reason for the burnout, repaired the malfunction, and can now operate the
system. After 48 to 72 hours of operation, the technician should return to check the pressure drop across the suction line filter and
take an acid test. Depending on what is found, replace the suction line and liquid line filter driers until an acid test and pressure
drop test shows no more contamination. The extra expense of proper clean up of a system will be more than paid for by the long life
of the much more expensive compressor.
 EXPERIMENT NO-04

STUDY OF Basic Refrigeration Tools

Refrigeration tools are used in performing preventive maintenance and repair on air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers, and
automotive air conditioner.

They are as follows:

• Tube Cutter – is a refrigeration tool use to cut copper tubing from sizes 1/8” to 1/2” outside diameter. A larger tube cutter is
also available for large tube diameters. Tubes are mark first before cutting. Slight pressure is applied to the copper tube during
cutting. The burr inside the tube is cleaned with blade reamer.

• Flaring Tool – is a refrigeration tool use to spread the copper end outward until a flare is formed. File and ream the copper tube
before flaring. The copper tube is inserted into the flaring block with 30% of its diameter protruding. Turn the flaring yoke slowly
until the flare is completed. Remove copper tube and inspect for defects.

• Swagging Tool – is a refrigeration tool use to expand the inside diameter of a copper tube so that the resulting diameter is the
same as the outside diameter. It is used to join two copper tubes of the same diameter. Clamp the copper tube by the flaring block
so that an 'equal to the outside diameter' of the copper tube length is to be swagged.

• Brazing Torch – is a refrigeration tool use in soldering the joints of two copper tubes together. 800 degrees Fahrenheit is
required to solder copper tubing. Map gas is generally used in these application, although oxygen-acetylene is also popular except
they are bulky and heavy. It can reach a temperature of 3600 degrees Fahrenheit. When brazing copper tube joints, do it in a well

ventilated area. Prolong inhalation can cause cancer.

• Copper Tube Bender – is a copper tube bending refrigeration tool. It has a three-size molded half-round wheels. The most
common sizes are from 1/4 of an inch diameter, to 5/16, then 3/8. Copper tubes are bent beautifully using this professional
bending tool.

• Adjustable wrench – is a wrench with an adjustable jaw. A six inch adjustable wrench is very useful in the field of refrigeration
repair. It can accommodate nuts and bolts' sizes from 1/8 of an inch to 1 inch. It can fit into the tool box easily.

• Flat Edge Screw Driver – is a screw driver with a flat driving end. An 8 inch screw driver with a blade width of 1/4" is the most
useful size. It is always a good idea to have a 1/8" blade and a 3/16" blade around with you.

• Philip Screw Driver – is a screw driver with a cross driving end. It is a good idea to have three sizes of this type also. Buy only
good quality philip screw driver because the teeth easily become blunt very slippery.

• Allen Wrench – is an angle hexagonal driving wrench. They are made of hardened steel. You will need allen key when removing
the squirrel caged fan of a window type air conditioner. The circular fan of an indoor unit is fastened with an allen screw.

• Long Nose Plier – is a plier with a long pointed nose. A 7 inch long nose plier is very useful and is a good addition to your tool
box. You will find the many uses of a long nose plier; from hard to-reach areas like removing a clip from a fan or holding the copper
tube when brazing alone.
• Slip Joint Plier – is a mechanical plier with a slip joint in order to adjust the size. Either for fastening a 1/2" pipe to loosening a
1" water pipe, it is a very handy tool to have. I have with me a 10" slip joint plier all the time.

• Electrical Plier – Insulated plier use by electrician. An 8 inch electrical plier is a must have in your tool box. There are time when
it is necessary to remove a live fuse from a fuse box. Or arranging the stranded wires.

• Pipe Wrench – is a wrench for fastening tubes and pipes. A 12 in pipe wrench must be in your tool box as well. Sometimes we
have to remove a rounded hex nut.

• Socket Wrench set – wrench with driving socket. We have the 1/2" drive and the 3/8" drive and the 1/4" drive. I carry all of
them when I am on the field. You will need a socket wrench to remove a remote hex nut or bolt where you have to add extension
just to remove it. The set come with a ratchet which is also a very handy tool.

• Nut Drivers – Hand held driver to drive or remove hex nuts or bolts. Mostly applicable to deep down places where our hand is
not able to reach. Straight hand grip type and the T-type drivers are available for you to choose.

• Box Wrench – Hand held box type wrenches. They came in from 1/4 of an inch to 1-1/4 inch size. Usually they are in
combination as far as the size is concern. A practical tool for assembling and disassembling home air conditioner and automotive air
conditioner compressors.

• Open Wrench – Open end hand held wrench. Their sizes are from 1/8 of an inch to 1-1/4 of an inch. It is most useful when you
are removing a machine bolt where access is only 50 to 75 percent, or the area is restricted that the wrench can make only one half
turn.
• Flat File – flat hardened steel with cutting ridges. Used for filing a newly cut copper tube ends to square it. Or to remove burrs
from steel brackets. File surface joints so that they can fit squarely.

• Round File – round long hardened steel with cutting ridges. Round file is very useful in enlarging a hole by filing. Cleaning a
rusty steel tube, removing a clogged from a drain hole. Enlarging a flat washer hole to fit the larger bolt. Or to shape a certain parts
through filing. Making prototype spare parts for hard-to-find spare.

• Half Round Files – Half round shaped long hardened steel with cutting ridges. When it is necessary to make a hole larger where
the application of a round file is not practical. The half round side can finish a curve surface, and the flat side for the flat surface.

• Carpenter’s Saw – a hand tool with tooth blade used to cut wood. Fabricating wooden frame for a window type air conditioner,
cutting wooden sticks to be used to elevate an air conditioner unit. Fabricating elevated stand for a split type stand alone indoor
unit.

• Tape measure – steel tape measuring device. Put one in your pocket whenever you are going out into the field. Either you are
going to make measurement for the length of the copper tubing you will need for a certain project, or measuring the volume of a
room.
• Hack Saw – a hand tool with tooth blade used to cut iron pipes or iron bars, maybe you need to shorten the length of a certain
PVC pipe, or fabricating a bracket for a new air conditioner. Making a new home air conditioner installation. Cutting the window
frame so that the new air conditioner will fit.

• Electric Drill Gun – is also a good refrigeration tool a refrigeration mechanic should have. We measure the size of a drill gun by
the size of the chuck. I have with me a 1/2 inch chuck, and it is all I need in doing different things, like installing a new compressor
and I need to make new holes for the anchor bolts.

• Bench Vise – a refrigeration tool with two jaws for holding works. Most of the time we need a vise to hold the copper tube so
that we can braze the joints correctly. Or we must clamp the machine bolt so that we can remove the hex nut. Or simply clamp a
piece of steel bar so that we can cut it into the size we need.

• Yoke Vise – a pipe vise. It is good to have a yoke vise in your working bench. Yoke vise is a common refrigeration tool a
mechanic should have. Either you are lengthening your water pipes or removing electrical conduit pipes, a yoke vise clamps the
tubing without deforming them.

• Gauge Manifold – refrigeration tool pressure gauges. Whenever you are reprocessing a refrigerator, or replacing a new
compressor for a freezer, or charging refrigerant to your automotive air conditioner, you need a gauge manifold to tell you if you
are doing it right
 EXPERIMENT NO-05

STUDY OF Car-Air-Conditioning WORKING

The comfort making machine!

Car-air-conditioning can be found in the cars that are cruising the highways today. They cool the
passenger's compartment so that we can drive comfortably. Imagine if your air conditioner breaks
down on a hot summer day, or on a rainy day, you will find it almost impossible to drive!

When we are driving a car, we close our windows and turn on the air conditioner. We are being
shielded from the dust, dirt, exhaust fumes, and pollution from factories. The air conditioner filters the
air inside the passenger compartment, dehumidifies it, and cooling it according to the temperature we
set on the thermostat.

The air conditioner filters the air inside the passenger compartment, dehumidifies it, and cooling it
according to the temperature we set on the thermostat. To understand how the air conditioners work,
we must understand the refrigeration cycle.

The Basic Refrigeration Cycle

Refrigerant gas from Evaporator enters the compressor it is being compressed at high speed, and the
high-temperature, high pressure gas refrigerant enters the condenser unit.

Heat is dissipated into the atmosphere, this process turns the gas refrigerant into liquid refrigerant.
The liquid refrigerant passes through a receiver/dryer where the moisture, dirt and small iron particles
are removed from the refrigerant.

Then it enters the expansion valve, where the volume of the liquid refrigerant is being controlled, and
enters into the evaporator.

Heat inside the passenger compartment is being absorbed and the refrigerant turns into gas. It now
returns to the compressor where the whole cycle repeats itself again.

When you are on the road, it is always a good idea that you carry a set of basic tools. Provide
periodic preventive maintenance to you vehicle and to the air conditioner components. It might take
some work, but the return is a trouble-free and cool driving

CAR-AIR-CONDITIONER SERVICING

Car-air-conditioner servicing is a very interesting job. If you have the tools and equipments, you
can save a lot of money if you do it yourself. But before you try anything else you should have the
knowledge of refrigeration.

Now we know that the refrigeration cycle is as follows:

The returning refrigerant from the evaporator circulates to the suction of the compressor.

It then compresses the low pressure low temperature refrigerant into high pressure and
high temperature refrigerant.

When it reaches the condenser, the heat absorbed from the evaporator combine with the
high pressure high temperature from the compressor, is released into the atmosphere.
The gas refrigerant condensate into liquid refrigerant, and is passing through
a receiver/dryer, where the moisture content of the refrigerant is absorbed,

and the dirt, metal particles, are filtered after leaving the receiver/dryer.

The refrigerant then passes to the evaporator, where the heat inside the passenger
compartment

is being absorbed. The liquid refrigerant turned to gas, and the cycle repeats again.

Knowing the refrigeration cycle, we begin our servicing by evacuating the system.

1) Hook up the gauge manifold, hang it on the hood catch. Connect the blue hose to the suction valve,
and the red hose to the discharge valve. Close both blue and red hand valves.

2) Connect the yellow hose to the inlet of vacuum pump.

3) Open both blue and red hand valves. Run the vacuum pump, after 10 to 15 minutes, the reading
on the compound gauge should be 29 to 30 in. Hg vacuum.

But if the needle is steady on a lower reading, it means there is a leak in the system. If there is no
leak, close both hand valves.
4) Connect the yellow hose to a refrigerant tank, open tank valve. Open the blue hand valve slowly to
allow refrigerant to enter the system.

5) When the pressure is around 30 psig, start looking for leaks by applying soap bubbles on fitting
joints. If no leak is found, continue charging until your reading on the compound gauge is 60 psig.

6) Start the engine and run it at 600 rpm or until the compressor clutch is engaged.

7) The reading of the compound gauge will go down and the reading of the pressure gauge will go up
to 200 psig.

8) Charge system until your reading on the compound gauge is 36 to 40 psig, and 200 to 210 psig on
the pressure gauge.

9) Check the sight glass of the receiver/dryer, there should be no bubbles in it.

10) Disconnect gauge manifold and close hood.

As you can see, servicing a car air conditioner is very simple and straight forward.
 EXPERIMENT NO-06

Bus-Air-Conditioning System WORKING

Bus-air-conditioning system is composed of a light-weight engine and a compressor coupled together,
and is mounted under the bus chassis. It has its own starting system, and once the sub-engine is
running, the compressor runs together with it.

A cooling unit assembly house the evaporator coils. It is an aluminum finned aluminum tubing
serpentine in shape where a blower blows the passenger compartment air through the finned coils into
the individually arranged ducting going to the individual passenger seat roofing. Air nozzles are
provided for aiding air direction inside the bus.

The condenser unit is made of copper tubing also serpentine in shape with
aluminum fins to aide the heat dissipation better. A strong fan blows the air through the condenser
tubing, thereby releasing the heat collected by the refrigerant into the atmosphere.

When the compressor of the bus-air-conditioning is running, it compresses the

refrigerant coming from the evaporator into high-pressure and high temperature refrigerant gas.
Together with the heat absorbed by the evaporator, the hot refrigerant travels into the condenser
unit.

Upon reaching the condenser, the accumulated heat in the gas refrigerant is released
into the atmosphere through the condenser fan. Once the heat is reduced the gas refrigerant turns
into liquid refrigerant. The liquefied refrigerant now enters the receiver tank, where the high pressure
refrigerant is stored.
 It then passes through a drier/strainer device, small foreign materials like dirt, iron
particles, and moisture in the refrigerant is filtered and strained. The dryer/strainer contains filter,
desiccant, and stop-valves for maintenance removal of the device.

The filtered refrigerant now enters the sight glass, a device where you can see the
liquid refrigerant travelling into the thermostatic expansion valve. The refrigerant through the sight
glass should be like water, and not like small bubbles, because if it is so, it means the refrigerant is
under charged.

The thermostatic expansion valve controls the flow of the liquid refrigerant into
the evaporator. A sensing bulb is attached to the tube prior to the outlet of the evaporator. When the
calibrated temperature difference between the inlet and outlet of the evaporator is breached, the valve
open and let refrigerant to enter the evaporator, maintaining a constant volume of liquid refrigerant in
the coils.

When the heat inside the passenger compartment is absorbed by the liquid
refrigerant of the evaporator, the refrigerant boils and turns into gas. The temperature and the
pressure drops as it enters the compressor, where it is being compressed and the refrigeration cycle
repeats.
Bus-Air-Conditioner Components

Basic Components of a Bus-Air-Conditioner are:

1. Compressor = the drive shaft is attached to the sub-engine flywheel. It has two reed valves on
the cylinder head. One is the intake and the other is the exhaust. When the piston goes down, the
intake reed valve opens and the exhaust reed valve closes. When the piston goes up, the intake reed
valve closes, and the piston forced the compressed refrigerant to exit the exhaust reed valve thereby
producing high compression pressure.

2. Condenser = is a serpentine coil of copper assembly with aluminum fins for heat dissipation. Heat
collected by the refrigerant coming from the evaporator is combined with the heat produced by the
compressor, and goes to the condenser so that the heat will be released to the atmosphere with the
aide of a condenser fan. When the temperature of the refrigerant drops, so is the pressure; and it
turns into liquid refrigerant.

3. Receiver = is a storage tank for the liquid refrigerant. It is always kept full so that the thermal
expansion valve will not run out of liquid refrigerant to feed the evaporator. The temperature and the
pressure at this stage is still high, therefore the receiver is equipped with a pressure relief valve, and
it will melt and release the over pressure at 96 degrees Centigrade.
4. Drier/Strainer = has filter and desiccant inside the device. The desiccant will absorb the harmful
moisture content in the liquid refrigerant while the filter will catch the small iron particles and dirt in
the liquid refrigerant. Both is needed to be assured of a pure liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator
and into the compressor.

5. Sight Glass = is an optical device for us to see inside the sealed glass if the liquid refrigerant is
sufficient. If the liquid refrigerant is clear like water, that means to say that our liquid refrigerant is
enough; but if we see bubbles in the liquid refrigerant, that means to say that the system need
charging of refrigerant.

6. Expansion Valve = is also called a metering device. It controls the quantity of liquid refrigerant to
enter into the evaporator. It has a feeler bulb attached to the outlet of the evaporator. When the
calibrated super heat is breached, the volatile gas inside the feeler bulb will push open the inlet valve
and let more liquid refrigerant into the evaporator.

The above components must be kept clean and in good operational condition. They must be checked
and maintained religiously every day throughout the years. Your untiring efforts will result in a trouble
free machine operations.
 EXPERIMENT NO-07

STUDY DC-Air-Conditioner SYSTEM

DC-air-conditioner uses direct current components to power the air conditioners. The power source
can be from banks of batteries, or from solar panels. Direct current appliances are becoming more and
more popular this days, because it does not use the household electricity to operate them.

As the supply of fossil fuel is getting scarcer every day, and fuel cost sky rocketing, refrigeration
engineers are shifting to alternative energy source and direct current appliances. They have developed
the solar cell, and made it into solar panels, and installed it on top of the roof to convert the heat of
the sun into direct current.

The main difference between a DC air conditioner from the conventional air conditioner is the use of
DC compressor motor and DC fan motors and its electrical components. During operation, this type of
air conditioners are very quiet and powerful, and are very efficient also.

The solar panels on the roof converts the heat of the sun into direct current, and it passes through a
DC voltage regulator, and routed to the banks of deep-cycle batteries on a basement in the house.
The solar panels charged the batteries and provide DC electricity in different outlets of the house.
Inverters are also installed in the house to convert the direct current into alternating current, so that
regular appliances can still be plug in. Although Warning signs should be pasted beside the AC
electrical outlets so that the user will know the kind of current source available. Systematic planning
must be made as far as the electrical supply is concerned.

Home dc-air-conditioners and boat air conditioners are already in the market. Large scale solar panel
manufacturing are gaining momentum. Even solar water heater is becoming popular. Whenever you
see solar panels on the roof tops, then you know they have direct current appliances.

In the future, men will use alternative energy to power not only their appliances, but also their cars.
Large scale developments are going on everywhere in the world, using solar energy to power the grid
to our homes are already a reality. Since the source of energy is the sun, it will make our environment
more healthy, and maybe someday, the damaged ozone will mend once more.
 EXPERIMENT NO-08

STUDY OF Refrigerator

A refrigerator is an appliance that is used to store foods. The compressor removes the heat from the
compartment/s and transfers it to the condenser, and the heat is dissipated into the atmosphere.

The temperature inside the lower compartment of the refrigerator is brought to a few degrees above
the freezing point, plus 5 degrees Centigrade (41 degrees Fahrenheit) to 10 degrees Centigrade (50
degrees Fahrenheit); since the microbes cannot move at temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit (-4.2
degrees Centigrade).

The freezer compartment operates at 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Centigrade) to 41 degrees

Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Centigrade). Foods like fish and meat, are frozen in the freezer compartment
and can be preserved for up to one month.

The Basic Refrigeration Cycle

Refrigerant gas from evaporator enters the compressor, it is being compressed at high speed; and the
high-temperature, high-pressure refrigerant gas enters the condenser unit. Heat is dissipated into the
atmosphere, and the refrigerant gas turns into liquid refrigerant. It passes through filter/dryer where
moisture, small iron particles, and moistures are removed. It flows into the expansion valve, and the
volume of the liquid refrigerant is being controlled, or the volume reduced to a spray mist, and enters
into the evaporator. Heat in the compartment/s is being absorbed and the liquid refrigerant boils and
turns into gas. It now flows to the compressor where the whole cycle repeats itself again.

Modern day single-door and two-door refrigerators have a freezer compartment on the upper side and
a cooling compartment on the lower side of the unit. The size of the freezer compartment is usually
1/5 of the cooling compartment.

A fan is installed at the back of the freezer compartment. During operation, the fan forced the air
through the evaporator coils, where heat is being absorbed by the refrigerant, and the cold air passing
through the evaporator coils is distributed into the freezer and the cooling compartments respectively.

On a two-door no-frost refrigerator, heater is installed between the evaporator coil for defrosting the
ice on timed interval. Depending on its model, the timer will stop the compressor's operation for 15
minutes, and turn on the heater for defrosting for 15 minutes; then the heater is turned off and the
compressor runs again for 1 to 2 hours. Heating elements can be found on the frame sides to prevent
water moisture from forming.

During defrosting, condensate water from the freezer compartment will drain to a pan at the bottom
of the freezer, and is guided by a plastic hose into a water collecting pan on top of the compressor.
The water cools the compressor and the heat evaporates the water into the atmosphere.
 Here are a few refrigerator tips on how to save electriciy: 1) Adjust your thermostat in the middle
position during normal operation. 2) Close the door properly, and check the gasket from time to time
if it is sealing correctly. 3) Provide at least 3 inches clearance to the wall and the back of your
condenser. A good air circulation is important to the operation of the compressor and the heat
dissipation of the condenser. 4) Clean unit inside and outside monthly.

Don't use ice pick to chip off the ice in the freezer because we don't want to puncture the evaporator
coil. Clean the condenser coils at the back also, so that it will transfer heat better into the atmosphere.

Check the level by placing a leveling gauge on top of the unit. I have seen many slanted to the back
which is not necessary thinking that the door/s will close better. Remember the compressor at the
back is slanted too, and it will put unnecessary stress to the motor bearings. I always correct the
position of a ref when I see one slanted, and check the door hinges plastic bushings for proper door
closing.

Refrigerator Preventive Maintenance TIPS

Refrigerator Preventive Maintenance - The main objective of a preventive maintenance is to avoid the
failure of an appliance, and extend the working life of it. A refrigerator is one of the hardest working
appliance in our home. It is working day and night, and 365 days a year without taking a rest. Aside
from preserving our foods, It also provided us all the kind of cold drinks we want all the time!

But little attention is given to it. From the time it was delivered to our home, we just plug it in and
forget about it, as if it doesn’t exist at all. But when it doesn’t cool the way it used to be, that’s the
time we realized that without the refrigerator, our lives will be very much different, and we start to
panic!

The following are the recommended steps to be taken in doing the maintenance.

1. Unplug the ref from the power supply outlet.

2. Move the ref towards you so that there will be enough space at the back to clean the condenser
unit.
3. Remove all the contents from the freezer compartment and the ref compartment. Put it aside.
4. Remove all the trays inside the ref compartment. Clean them.
5. To defrost faster, use a 16 inch electric fan and face the freezer. Turn it on.
6. Never use any pointed metal or blade in removing the accumulated ice in the freezer compartment.
Chances are, you will puncture the evaporator coil, and big trouble is in front of you!
7. Use a clean wet cloth; wipe the freezer compartment and the door clean. Do the same to the ref
compartment, and the door.
8. Soak the clean cloth in diluted detergent water, remove the excess liquid. Clean the freezer and the
ref compartment. Until all the stains and blood are removed.
9. Clean it with detergent water again until it smells clean and look really clean. Follow it up with final
water clean and dry clean.
10. Get a 3 inch paint brush and brush-clean the condenser at the back of the ref. Remove all the
cobwebs and dust which is accumulated onto the coils.
11. Remove the drain pan above the compressor, and remove the contents, and clean it well. Return
the drain pan. Care should be taken when cleaning the area around the compressor. Compressed air
is good for this job.
12. Return all the frozen fish and meat in to the freezer, and the foods, drinks, and vegetable into the
ref.
13. Clean the exterior of the ref. Never use abrasive cloth in doing this job, or you will scratch the
beautiful paint. Return the ref to it original place.
14. Position the thermostat all the way to the maximum, plug the power cord, and run the ref for one
day. The next day, adjust the thermostat to the middle position. Don’t forget to do this!
15. Maintain a record of your periodic maintenance. And put it at the back of your refrigerator.

A monthly preventive maintenance is necessary. Doing it religiously and it will provide us a life long
companion of good food and tasty cold drinks all the time!
 EXPERIMENT NO-09

STUDY OF Freezer
A freezer is a stand alone appliance which operates at only one temperature, below freezing point,
from minus 5 degrees Centigrade to minus 25 degrees Centigrade. Fresh produce like fish, meat and
the like can be stored for a month and may be more. They use three types of evaporators that wraps
around the side walls to do the cooling, they are the plate type, the shelf type, and the forced-air
type.

Plate and shelf type - the evaporator coils of this type are stamped into the walls of the inner
aluminum casing in a plate or shelf form, they came in one piece, and has a housing of it own. No fan
is being use on them, since they are mounted into the side walls of the box.

Forced-air type – This type utilizes a fan behind a panel to force the air into the evaporator coils and

distribute the air on the sides of the compartment. This type of unit has an
automatic defrost system, where the thawed water is drained to the bottom of a base pan where it is
heated by the discharge coils from the compressor, and cooling the refrigerant going into the
evaporator.

This kind of freezer uses low-back pressure

compressor to achieve very low temperature, minus 12 degrees Centigrade. To

reach the set temperature, the unit has to run for at least two hours. To cool the compressor and
prevents it from over heating, one or two cooling fans are used depending on the model.

The forced-air type is subdivided into the upright model and the chest model. Their volume capacity
sizes may range from 12 to 20 cubic feet. And the condensers are
housed inside the casing.
The Basic Refrigeration Cycle

Refrigerant gas from theEvaporator enters the compressor and it is being compressed at high speed,
the high pressure gas refrigerant enters the condenser unit, and heat is being dissipated into the
atmosphere; and the gas refrigerant condensates, and turns into liquid refrigerant. It passes through
a filter/dryer where moisture, small iron particles, and dirts are removed from the system, and it
enters the expansion valve. The volume of the liquid refrigerant is being controlled, and the pressure
reduced, it enters the evaporator in mist form. Then the heat inside the chamber is being absorbed
and the refrigerant boils and turns into gas. The gas refrigerant flows to the compressor where the
whole cycle repeats itself again.

Domestic Freezer Types

Upright Freezer - this type of freezers have 21 and 17 cubic foot capacities, both featuring exterior
IQ-Touch digital control, automatic ice maker, Fast Freeze option to lock in freshness, power failure
and door open alarms. The lockable blue LED display shows vital functions and displays temperature in
Fahrenheit or Celsius. Alarm System will notify you in case of a power failure, if a door stays open
longer than 5 minutes, and if the freezer interior temperature rises above 23 degrees for more than
60 minutes. Both of these upright freezers are frost free.

Chest freezer - The new freezer is very energy efficient and can save up to 30% of electrical energy,
because it uses the latest shield condenser technology; it guarantees that the new chest freezer
maintains a high level of efficiency and reliability in any climate conditions. This is achieved by
preventing condensation and rust from forming on the walls and dirt from accumulating on the
condenser.
Sliding Door Freezer - This type of freezer features a cotton ginning Al board liner; arch glass door-
frame; a food basket; partition screen boards are provided to facilitate the sorted storage of food,
saving time and electricity; A frost and dew water-draining hole on the cupboard frame to facilitate
quick condensate draining; universal castors to facilitate the machine moving.

Commercial freezer types

Curved Door Chest Freezer - This is a one compartment 268L/318L commercial freezer. It has an
excellent performance between refrigerating and freezing with heat-reflection strong-strength curved
glass door for wide display. It comes with universal castors with lock for easy moving With drain hole.

2-door Reach-In Freezer - This freezer have positive door seal and self closing type; The door
hinges and door torsion springs are guaranteed for life. Fingerprint resistant .040 anodized aluminum.
49 cubic feet of food storage space; higher no-stoop bottom shelf; self adjustment clips; they snap in
place easily. Bottom mounted compressor, It will maintain temperature easily with minimum
compressor run time. Large evaporator coil balanced with higher horsepower compressor and large
condenser make this possible. The cooling lines are charged with environmentally friendy R404A
refrigerant. Foamed-in-place polyurethane high density cell insulation is CFC free.

Blast Freezer - This freezer types has a temperature range from 0 to -45 deg F (-18 to -41 deg C).
Dimensions are 1020(width) x 970(Deep) x 2240(Height); It comes with tray slides that accepts
Euronorm and Gastronorm pans; body uses 304 grade stainless steel interior and exterior; standard
temperature probe is fitted into the unit; Adjustable legs, and drain plug for water condensate.
Walk-In Cooler/freezer - good visual merchandising is essential to Convenience Stores,
Supermarkets, Beer & Liquor, C-Stores, Ice Cream, Milk, Dairy & Frozen Food Merchandisers. The
custom Glass door Walk In display units are designed to provide refrigerated storage and give you
maxium marketing exposure to increase sales!

Freezer preventive maintenance - The main objective of a preventive maintenance is to

avoid the failure of an appliance, and extend the working life of it.

Just like his big brother, the air conditioner, it works very-very hard too. This appliance may be an
upright or a chest type, they preserve our fresh fish and meat up to a month.

That is why as a token of appreciation, we are going to provide a scheduled monthly preventive
maintenance for it so that it is going to be with us for a very long time.

Here are some simple steps of preventive maintenance everyone can do:

1) Unplug power cord from the wall outlet.

2) Remove all the stuffs inside the unit, and put it aside.

3) Use a bucket of water and rinse the ice. Scoop the water out of the box.

4) Clean the inside of the unit using clean water, and follow it up with soap water, and then clean
water again. Map dry with dry clothes.

5) If your unit has a two sliding glass on top, clean it with soap water, drip dry, then map dry with dry
clothes.

6) Check for broken glass corner strips. Replace broken ones using glass silicon adhesive.

7) If your unit is a single-door, or a two-door type, clean them thoroughly as well.

8) Soap clean the unit's outer body. Don’t use abrasive clothes because you might scratch the paint
surface finish.

9) Open the compressor side cover. Clean the inside of dust, dirt and oil.

10) Check fan blade for alignment, if it is out of line, replace with a new one. A bad fan blade will
produce vibrations and noise. It will destroy the fan motor shaft bearings if it is not replaced with a
good one.

11) If your unit defrost by itself, check out the thermostat, the trouble is most probably there.
12) Don’t leave the unit door open for a long time. This will give the compressor extra work to do.
Energy conservation must be observed!

13) Return side cover. Plug the power cord to the wall outlet.

14) Return all the goodies that were earlier removed from the freezer. Your unit is now good as new.

Do this once a month. If the accumulation of ice is very thick that it runs on top of the lid. Defrost it
immediately. Remember, gap like this will cost you more energy bill than you can imagine. Record you
maintenance and put it at the back of the unit. Follow it religiously.
 EXPERIMENT NO-10

STUDY OF Refrigeration-repair

Refrigeration-repair is the isolation of the defective component/s and replacing it with an original one.
Repair means to restore. Or replacing a part or putting together what is torn or broken. Wear and tear
in the moving parts of a refrigeration appliance will break down in the long run; and when that
happens, repair is necessary.

Any repairs must be carried out by qualified personnel, one equipped with the necessary knowledge in
the field of refrigeration, and preferably one who has many years of actual experience, not only repair,
but also the knowledge of installing various kinds of refrigeration appliances.

A good technician can pin point where the problem is, and knows exactly what is wrong, and why it is
wrong. He can do the job quickly and accurately, with less time and less cost. Saving a lot of money
to the owner of the refrigeration appliances.

Our field of discussions will be divided into individual categories, beginning from air conditioners,
refrigerators, and freezers; and its associated components. As much as possible we include pictures to
make our explanations more clearly understandable. Although some topics will be more technical in
phrases but we will keep it as simple as possible.
A complete set of refrigeration tools and equipment is a must, and a safe place to do the repairs is
necessary. Care and safety should be the priority concern during the performance of the repairs. Keep
away from fire hazard substances and the ventilation of the working place must be excellent to avoid
inhaling of hazardous gases.

The following subjects will be discussed in detail, they are:

1) Compressor Testing
2) Compressor Replacement
3) Condenser Flushing Procedures
4) Refrigeration Tools
5) Refrigerants
6) Refrigerator Repair

Compressor-Testing The Easy Way

Compressor-testing is necessary when your refrigerator or freezer keeps on running, but the stuffs
inside are becoming spoiled. We suspect that there is something wrong with the compressor.

There are two ways of testing your compressor. One is through electrical testing, and the other is
through mechanical testing.
I find both are necessary to justify a purchase for a new compressor. For this demonstration, we are
going to test a compressor of a refrigerator. or a freezer.

Electrical Compressor Testing:

1) On the side of the compressor you will find a round bake-e-lite

with three pins on it. They are always in a triangular configuration.

The three terminals are C (common), S (Start), and R (Run). The top pin is the “C”, the one on the
left is “S”, and the one on the right is “R”.

2.) Now get the ohmmeter ready, adjust the selector to x1; touch the test prods and adjust to “0”.
Write down on a piece of paper like the one below:

1 – 2 = ________ ohms

1 – 3 = ________ ohms

2 – 3 = ________ ohms

1 = C, 2 = S, 3 = R

3) Get the resistance reading of 1 and 2; followed by 1 and 3; and finally 2 and 3. Fill in their
reading on the paper. Normally the 1 and 2 resistance should be around 15 ohms, 3 ohms for 1 and
3, and 18 ohms for 2 and 3.
4) If either one has no reading, it means that there is an open circuit inside the winding. And if the
reading is too high, there could be a short circuit in it. Check the pins to the ground for short. It
should not exhibit any form of continuity.

Mechanical compressor-testing:

1) Now, we will test the compressor for internal problems; like loose compression or leaky valves.

2) While still connected in the system, connect a compound gauge on the service valve of the suction
copper coil; and a pressure gauge on the service valve of the discharge copper coil. Check for
refrigerant leaks.

3) Turn on the compressor and observe the reading. If the reading is the same, for example: both are
35 psig, you have a loose compression.

4) Now remove the compressor from the system, and connect a compound gauge on the suction side,
and a pressure gauge on the discharge side.

5) Run the compressor and observe the reading. When the reading of the compound gauge is around
25 psig, and the reading of the pressure gauge is around 135 psig.

Turn off the unit and observe the reading of the needles. If both needle fall after 15 minutes, then
your valves are leaking.

Compressor-testing may not be so hard, just follow the tips above, and with a little common sense,
and some knowledge on refrigeration, you should be on the right track.

Compressor-Replacement Guide

How To Do A Compressor-Replacement Correctly!

Compressor – Is the “heart” of the refrigeration system. It is a very durable machine, and if given
proper care, this device will last up to more than 20 years. I have a 30 year-old refrigerator, and it is
still kicking today.

When a compressor breaks down, we seldom have it repaired anymore. Because a repaired one will
cost as much as a new one, and it will not last long in service.
We will discuss the compressor-replacement method for the refrigerator and

freezer their compressor-replacement procedures are practically the same, except for the car air
conditioner.

How to do a compressor-replacement:

1) Unplug unit from wall outlet.

2) Remove the current relay from the compressor.

3) Hook up the gauge manifold, and connect the blue hose to the suction line, and the red hose to the
discharge line.

4) If the system does not have suction and discharge service valves. Install new ones. You have two
options here, you can braze them or use the “bullet piercing valve.”

5) Connect the yellow hose to the recycling machine.

6) Open blue and red manifold hand valves. And run recycling machine, until all the refrigerant is
removed from the system.

7) Turn off recycling machine. Close manifold hand valves. And remove manifold from connections.

8) Remove filter/dryer. Replace it with a new one.

9) Fire up your Map Gas, and heat the suction copper joint to the compressor until silver melts, pull
suction coil away using a long nose plier.

10) Do the same for the discharge copper coil joint.

11) Loosen anchor nuts. Remove compressor. Put it in a safe place.

12) An exact the same compressor must be installed. Tighten anchor nuts.

13) Clean suction and discharge copper tubing using a round tube cleaning brush. Apply silver flux on
the surface.

14) Insert the suction copper tube into the compressor

suction tube, and insert the discharge copper tube into the discharge tube.

15) Suction copper tube is always larger in diameter than the discharge copper tube.

16) Point the torch on the joint, moving a little bit up and down. When the color is red, apply silver on
the
 joints. Let the silver flow all around. Move the torch up and down until a good joint is made. Do the
same on both sides.

17) Apply wet clothes on the hot joints. When it is cold. Hook up the manifold. The blue hose to the
suction service valve, and the red hose to the discharge service valve.

18) Connect the yellow hose to the vacuum pump. Plug power supply cord to the wall outlet.

19) Open manifold hand valves all the way for blue and red hose.

20) Start vacuum pump, and run it for a minimum of 1 hour. It is necessary to remove all the
moisture, dirt,

metal pieces from the system before charging new refrigerant. If they are not
removed, they will turn acidic and will eventually damage the newly installed compressor.

21) After 1 hour, close both red and blue hand valves. Turn off vacuum pump, and disconnect from
wall outlet.

22) Remove pump. And install the yellow hose to a refrigerant cylinder. Your old compressor will tell
you what kind of refrigerant to use.
23) Open refrigerant valve. Purge the yellow hose first to rid of air. Open blue valve slowly, and watch
the pressure rising slowly on the compound gauge.

24) When you reach 30 psig, close the blue hand valve.

25) Use soap-water and start looking for leaks on the soldered joints. If you have an electronic leak
detector, use it.

26) When everything is OK, plug in current relay to the compressor, and plug the power supply cord
to a wall outlet.

27) Clamp a clampmeter on one of the compressor’s supply line. Set the reading to ampere.

28) With the compressor running, watch the needle of the compound gauge. It should start to go
down.

29) Now you should hear hissing sound inside your freezer compartment.

30) Continue adding refrigerant until you have a reading of 6 to 8 psig on the low side and 175 psig
on the high side for a refrigerator; 0 to 2 psig on the low side and 175 psig on the high side for a
freezer; and 65 to 69 psig on the low side and 275 to 296 psig on the high side for window air
conditioners.

31) Watch the ampere reading while the compressor is running. The more refrigerant you
add, the higher the ampere reading you get. "You must strictly follow the manufacturer’s
specifications."
32) Don’t over charge the compressor with refrigerant thinking that the more refrigerant it has the
colder it will be. This is a wrong information and it will only increase the current load of the
compressor and shorten its useful life.

33) After 30 minutes of running, and everything is OK, close the refrigerant tank valve. And
disconnect all 3 hoses. Seal service valves with their own cap. Make sure there is a rubber o-ring
inside the cap before capping.

Your compressor is now good as new. And it wasn’t so difficult to do a compressor-replacement after
all. Right?

Remember, always give at least a 3 inch minimum distance to the back of your refrigerator and the
wall. Provide scheduled preventive maintenance to your refrigerator and freezer, and your new
compressor should last a very long time.

Condenser Flushing Procedures

Condenser flushing is necessary if we have encountered internal problems, like a burn compressor;
or the coils had been opened for a length of time. Moisture, dust and dirt are already inside the coils.

R-11 has been used more often than other refrigerant. It has good cleaning ability and does not
freeze the skin when come into contact.

The molecular formula of R-11 is CCl3F, it has a boiling point of 23.77 degrees Centigrade, and it is
not flammable.

1) Prepare the flushing machine. Connect the discharge hose to the top side copper tube, and connect
the return hose to the bottom copper tube.
I have made myself a flushing machine using a small 1/4 hp water pump installed on top of a
refrigerant tank. Two 3/8" diameter iron tubes was installed into the tank.

The bottom end of the discharge tube is 2 inches above the floor of the tank; and the discharge tube
is connected to the suction side of the water pump;

and a 3/8" diameter tube is installed on the discharge side of the water pump. The bottom tube on the
cylinder has a filter installed to filter out dirt and iron particles.

2) Operate the flushing machine, the liquid refrigerant R-11 will circulate from the top of the coil
and came out from the bottom of the coil.

3) Let it run for 10 to 15 minutes, drain R-11, then turn off the flushing machine. Connect R-12 to the
top of the copper tube and purge the coils.

4) Force out the R-11 until it is clear. The remaining moisture inside the coils should come out clean.

Seal the upper copper tube and the lower copper tube with rubber plugs. This rubber plugs are the
plugs used in sealing a new compressor.

5) The condenser is now clean internally, and is ready for assembly. Remove the sealing plugs only
when assembling the components.

This procedures are applicable to the room air conditioners, auto air
conditioners, refrigerators, and freezers. Keep your tools and equipment orderly.

Refrigerator-Repair

The following are the step-by-step procedures in doing a refrigerator-repair.

Unplug power cord of the refrigerator from the wall outlet

 Remove freon from the system and store it in a container

Remove the bottom drain pan from the top of the compressor

Remove the current relay from the side of the compressor

Melting and disconnecting suction line from the compressor

Melting and disconnecting discharge line from compressor

 Removing the old compressor and replacing it with a new one

Installing the four compressor anchor bolts to the chassis

Using a vacuum pump to remove the unwanted dirt and moisture content

Leak testing the newly soldered joints with soap bubbles for evident leak

Leak testing the newly soldered joints with electronic leak tester
 Charging the system with refrigerant according to specs

Checking the running current of the compressor during charging

Testing the actual running temperature of the freezer compartment

Testing the actual running temperature of the refrigerator compartment

Please exercise "safety first" in doing a refrigerator-repair. Work in a well ventilated area. You must
have water outlet and fire extinguisher in your working place. Avoid inhaling the refrigerant, and
watch out for the torch so that you won't burn your hands.