Textile fibres

Ms Sue Scott

RMIT University
Fibre classification
Textile fibres fall into two basic families: natural and man-made. The first and oldest is the
natural textile fibre group, which includes wool and cotton. The earliest known use of
natural fibre was about 7000 years ago.

The second is the man-made textile fibre group. This group can be divided into two
sections:

1. regenerated cellulose fibres, such as Tencel, viscose and acetate. These fibres use a
naturally occurring polymer, cellulose, obtained from plant material, which is
chemically extracted from the plant material, then regenerated as a fibre

2. synthetic fibres such as Nylon, polyester and polypropylene.

Synthetic fibres have only been developed in the last 100 years, with the greatest
developments occurring in the last 60 years. These fibres are made from chemically
engineered long-chain polymers derived generally from petroleum by-products, coal and
gases. An example is Polyamide 6.6 (Nylon 6.6) synthesised from hexamethylene diamine
and adipic acid.
The fibre families can be divided into groups according to:
• where the fibre comes from – its origins

• what the fibre is made from – its polymer nature.

Polymers
Polymers are the very large (long-chain) molecules that form a fibre. These can be thought
of in the same way as fibres in a yarn because many polymer molecules make up a fibre,
just as many fibres make a yarn.

Polymer molecules are built up from many (thousands) of small molecules (monomers) in a
chain-like formation (see below). This process of ‘polymerisation’ is carried out by
complex chemical engineering processes using reaction chemicals derived from coal, oil,
gas, air, minerals and water. Refer to the Fact Sheet on each fibre for more details.

This is a representation of monomers joined end to end, and is a generalisation only. It has
been used to show the general process. Each fibre polymer will have its own configuration.

Naturally occurring polymers include:

• cellulose, from which plant fibres are made

• protein – animals produce protein fibres as hair (keratin), wool (keratin) or a

filament such as silk (fibroin).

Man-made and synthetic polymers include:

• regenerated cellulose – processed cellulose (recovered plant fibre, usually wood

pulp), regenerated into a filament form. Viscose and Tencel are two examples of
fabrics made from regenerated cellulose fibres

• synthetic polymers – synthetic fibres are produced from a synthetic polymer. These
are made from chemicals derived from petroleum, coal and gases, and include
polyamides (Nylons), polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylonitrile (acrylic), elastanes
(Lycra, Spandex), aramids (Kevlar) and many more.

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Note that the names in brackets are usually the trade name. The first names, for example,
polyester and polyamide, are generic names.

The fibre forming process (extrusion) will depend on the nature of the polymer; that is,
whether it melts or dissolves, or how the viscous spinning solution is prepared. Refer to the
Fact Sheet on each fibre for this information.

Thermoplastic polymers are produced in the form of small plastic-like chips, which are
melted to form the fibre. Refer to the section on Production. Fibre producers often buy
polymer chips from chemical companies.

To make fibre, first the polymer is prepared as a spinning solution. At this stage a colouring
agent in the form of a powdered pigment can be added. This is known as dope dyeing and
is usually done to colour polymers that are difficult to dye, for example, polypropylene.
The liquid is forced through a spinneret, a steel block with hundreds or thousands of holes
in it. Each hole forms one fibre.
The fibres are then ‘set’ by various means, depending on whether they are thermoplastic,
dissolved or in solution. Drawing (stretching) now aligns the polymer molecules into a
more parallel (crystalline) configuration. Further processing may involve:

• texturising, followed by cone winding

• cutting into staple, followed by baling.

Other fibre forming substances

Special purpose fibres are made from:

• glass

• ceramic

• metal
• carbon.

These are used for textiles with properties such as fire resistance, protective abilities,
abrasion resistance, strength or chemical resistance.

Essential fibre properties

To be useful, a fibre must meet some minimum performance standards. Fibre properties
will vary according to the end-use required of the fibre; for example, a fibre to be used for
clothing (apparel) will have different performance parameters from a fibre to be used in
geotextiles.

However, there are some essential properties shared by all fibres.

• Strength – to withstand processing and to give a serviceable product.

• Flexibility – the ability to bend many times and recover without breaking is essential
during processing, and in use. The final drape, handle and feel of the fabric will be
affected by this, also its durability.

• Elasticity – the ability to stretch and recover its original length gives greater life and
wearer comfort to the finished fabric.
• Chemical composition – fibres must be dyed, washed, bleached, dry-cleaned, and so
on, so they must have resistance to the chemicals used in these processes.

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• Availability – fibres must be readily available at a reasonable price.

The following properties may be considered to be ‘desirable’ and are most likely found in
apparel fibres.

• Texture – waviness or crimp is essential in staple-spun fibres to give strong yarns.

• Absorbency – for apparel fibres the ability to absorb water affects the comfort of the
fabric.
• Length to diameter ratio – a staple fibre must be very long in relation to its length for
spinning reasons. (Refers only to staple fibres.)

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Fibre production
Natural fibres
Natural fibres are first grown then harvested. The raw material is then cleaned and
separated from any materials unsuited to making textiles; for example, when wool is shorn
from the sheep it has dirt, lanolin (grease) and vegetable matter such as grass, seeds and
burrs in it. All this has to be removed.
After cleaning, if the fibre is to be made into a yarn, it goes into the spinning process. This
process will vary depending on the fibre. Wool generally cannot be spun using cotton
equipment because of differences in diameter, staple length, surface friction co-efficient,
longitudinal configuration and so on.

The processes make the fibres parallel then control the fibre so the finished yarn has the
desired weight (count) twist and appearance.

Cotton bolls ready for harvesting. Typical Australian fine Merino ram.

Flax plants ready for harvesting.

Man-made fibres
There are two main classes of man-made fibres:
• cellulose (plant)-based regenerated fibres (for example, viscose, Tencel, acetate)

• synthetic fibres (for example, Nylon, polyester).

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The production of both classes requires several common steps:

• obtaining, preparing or synthesising a polymer in solution or chip form

• extruding this material to form a fibre – melt, wet, dry spinning

• modifying the fibre by drawing

• texturising the fibre to alter its properties and shape

• cutting into staple if required.

Regenerated cellulose fibres

These are made by chemically treating wood pulp to form a spinning solution and extruding
this material to form fibres.

Viscose

Traditionally, viscose these fibres were made using strong environmentally damaging
chemicals, and the resultant fibre, rayon, had problems with dry and wet strength. A weak
fibre, viscose loses 40% of its strength when wet.

Tencel

Tencel is a new fibre made with an environmentally friendly process that uses a recyclable
organic solvent to produce the spinning solution. Full recovery of the solvent is made as
part of the wet spinning (extrusion) process.

Cellulose acetate and tri-acetate

Cellulose acetate and tri-acetate are modified cellulose ester fibres produced by chemically
modifying recovered cellulose into cellulose acetate which is dissolved in acetone to
produce a spinning solution.

Acetates are dry spun.

Synthetic fibres
Synthetic fibres are produced from a synthetic polymer. The method of extrusion depends
on the nature of the polymer; for example, thermoplastic polymers are produced in the form
of small plastic-like chips that are melted to form the fibre. (Ask your instructor for a
sample of polymer chips.) The word ‘polymer’ is also applied to the building blocks or
molecules that form the basis of natural fibres. (Refer to the section on Polymers.) Fibre
producers often buy polymer from chemical companies.

To make thermoplastic fibres, first the polymer is heated. At this stage a colour can be
added. This is known as dope dyeing and is done for several reasons:

• the resultant fibre is very difficult to dye in aqueous solution (polypropylene)

• high colour fastness is required (washing and light)

• high rub fastness is required

• mass production for a large market offers economies of scale.

The molten liquid is forced through a spinneret – a steel block with hundreds or thousands
of holes in it. Each hole forms one fibre. The fibres are then cooled by air and drawn
(stretched) before being wound into packages.

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Extrusion
After the spinning solution (polymer) is prepared, the next process involves pumping the
thick, viscous solution through a metal nozzle called a spinneret.

The spinneret contains many holes that are very small (cut by electron beam or laser). Each
hole forms one filament. The shape of the hole determines the fibre’s cross-section.

Polyester filaments being

extruded from spinnerets.

Typical spinnerets.

Common fibre cross–sections.

Trilobal Hollow Solid

After extrusion, the fibre is coagulated (hardened) by cooling, evaporation (drying) or

chemical reaction, depending on how it was prepared.

The diameter of the filament is determined by the size of the spinneret hole, amount of
polymer pumped through and rate of drawing. Control of drawing and polymer pumping is
essential to produce even filaments with the required polymer orientation.

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Fibre cross-sectional shape will affect the following properties:

• lustre – a smooth fibre will reflect light and a rough fibre will scatter it

• brightness or dullness of colour

• surface friction co-efficient – smooth fibres will slide over one another

• handle

• insulation
• density

• ratio of surface area to volume – this has a major effect on the moisture transfer
(wicking) properties.

Light reflection

Light scattering

Melt, wet and dry spinning

The three different methods of spinning (extrusion) are needed to handle the different
polymer solutions.

Melt spinning is used for synthetic polymers that are thermoplastic (melt when heated).
The fibres must be cooled slowly to provide for controlled extrusion, which helps to
provide even fibre properties.

Polymer
chips

Heater

Pump

Spinneret
Winding
and filter

Drawing

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Dry spinning is used for synthetic and regenerated fibres. The polymer is dissolved in a
solvent chemical to form the thick spinning solution (dope). Solvent-laden air is processed
through a condenser to recover the solvent.

Polymer solution
based on a
volatile solvent.

Pump
Winding

Spinneret
and filter
Solvent recovery
Drying air

Drawing

Wet spinning is used for synthetic and regenerated fibres where the polymer is dissolved in
a solvent chemical to form the thick spinning solution (dope). Coagulation (hardening) is
caused by a chemical reaction between the polymer solution and the bath chemicals.

Viscose Winding
solution

Pump

Drawing
Filter

Coagulation tank
(acid solution)
Spinneret

Modifying fibre properties

Fibre properties may be modified by adding chemicals, such as delustring agents (titanium
dioxide a dull, white powder), to the spinning solution or polymer chips for extrusion.

Some chemicals can modify the degree of polymerisation (linking) between adjacent
polymer molecules, which can affect fibre properties such as:

• melting point
• elastic recovery

• tensile strength

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 • cross-sectional shape

• longitudinal surface texture (fibre friction).

Delustring agents and pigments (solid colourant particles) can change:

• opacity

• lustre – fibres can be made with lustres varying from full bright to full dull

• colour.

Light scattering due to

delustrant particles
inside a fibre.

Drawing

Drawing is the process of stretching the fibre to arrange the polymer molecules in a more
crystalline form, thereby changing the fibre properties to make it:

• stronger
• stiffer

• less elastic
• less reactive

• less water absorbent (hydrophobic).

Amorphous and crystalline regions

When polymers are synthesised they can be arranged physically in two configurations
within the solid polymer ‘chips’. These regions are known as amorphous and crystalline.

Amorphous Crystalline

(having no particular order i.e. (polymers in a basically parallel

jumbled) arrangement)

2
Filaments are wrapped
several times around each To winding
roller. texturising or
staple cutting.

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
The drawing process
Roller 2 rotates faster than Roller 1, thus the extruded filaments are stretched, pulling the
polymers into a more crystalline arrangement. This is known as the draw ratio and could be
up to five times for general apparel fibres and even more for special purpose fibres having
very high polymer crystallinity.

Amorphous (a)

Crystalline (c)

Draft zone (b)

Texturising

When the fibre is extruded it is smooth and has no crimps or waves. This is called a ‘flat’
yarn. To alter the fibre so it resembles a natural fibre in terms of crimp and surface texture,
it may be texturised. Refer to the diagrams of texturising methods on the next page.

Texturising is a mechanical process utilising the thermoplastic (heat setting) nature of

synthetic fibres such as Nylon or polyester, to change the following properties of the fibre:
• stretch

• bulk
• handle

• absorbency

• insulating properties.
The idea is to mimic or even improve upon the natural crimp and convolutions found in
cotton, wool and other natural fibres. This is necessary for blending staple fibres, such as
wool, with polyester. The synthetic polyester must be made to match the wool in fibre
diameter, staple length and texture. Thus the fibres are crimped and set to match the wool
fibres.

Cutting

Cutting can be done in several ways, after texturising, to produce staple to the required
length. The cutting may be ‘randomised’ to simulate natural fibres.

The following is a flow chart of man-made fibre processes.

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 Polymer
synthesis

Nylon Regenerated
Polyester Cellulose:
Acrylic Depending on Tencel
Elastane polymer properties Acetate
Polyprop. Viscose

Melt extrusion Dry extrusion Wet extrusion

Drawing

Flat filament Texturising

yarns
Cutting for staple

Bulked and stretch

yarns

Flow chart of man-made fibre processes.

Bi-component and bi-constituent fibres

Bi-component fibres are made by combining ‘generically simila’ polymers at the spinning
(extrusion) stage to produce fibres with enhanced properties. Thus a ‘high bulk’ acrylic is
made by extruding two forms of acrylic in a ‘side by side’ configuration. See below.

Bi-constituent fibres are made by combining ‘generically different’ polymers at extrusion.

An example is a ‘core-sheath’ fibre with a polyester core surrounded by a PVC sheath to
form a melt bondable fibre for non-woven applications.

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Bi-component fibres
Side-by-side – ‘high bulk acrylic’

Acrylic A Acrylic B

Core sheath – ‘Tontine’

PVC sheath Polyester core

Matrix – Fibril – Fortran

Polyester fibrils

Nylon matrix

Bi-constituent fibres

Bi-constituent fibres produced are:

• Source – 70% Nylon 6 matrix, 30% polyester fibrils

• Mirafi – Polypropylene matrix + Nylon fibrils (geotextiles)

• Fortran – Nylon matrix + Polyester fibrils (carpet pile).

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 Fact sheet – Cotton
Cotton is a vegetable or plant fibre. It comes from the seed or fruit of the cotton plant,
genus Gossypium.

Cotton is composed of cellulose polymer, which is polymerised from beta-glucose

monomers (a simple sugar) by plants. It is used as a reinforcing material in the plant’s stem
and leaves. It has high strength and when found in fibrous formations, such as cotton,
provides a fibre of good strength.

Cellulose is the most abundant bio-polymer on earth.

OH
Note: carbon and hydrogen atoms in the rings
O OH
are omitted for clarity.
OH

CH2 O
CH2
O
O
OH O OH OH
OH
O
OH OH
CH2
O
O
CH2 O
O
OH
OH

OH

Cotton is the most used textile fibre, accounting for 50% of the world’s fibre usage.

Properties
Moisture handling Water-liking fibre, with a natural moisture content of 8–10%;
can absorb up to 25%

Fibre length 10–55 mm

Elongation at break 5–10%

Tenacity 27–45 cn/tex.; strong fibre that gets stronger when wet

Effect of heat Burns readily and will discolour at temperatures above 110°C

Resistance to acid Disintegrates in hot diluted or cold concentrated acids

Resistance to alkali Excellent resistance

Organic attack Not attacked by moths or beetles; affected by microorganisms

Handling characteristics Soft, cool to touch; poor wrinkle resistance due to fair flexibility
and elasticity properties

Uses
Cotton’s uses include apparel, household goods, workwear, industrial goods, geotextiles
and medical textiles.

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Fact sheet – Wool

Wool is an animal or protein fibre. Different styles of wool are produced by the different
breeds of domestic sheep. Large, heavy-bodied animals will produce coarse, long fibre
suited to carpet manufacture, while fine wools are produced by the Australian Merino
breed. Numerous crossbreeds produce a range of fibre types (styles) between these
extremes.
Wool has only a small percentage of overall fibre usage.

Production
Wool grows from follicles in the skin of the sheep. Different breeds produce different styles
of wool, which vary in their length and diameter and have different end uses.
After shearing the greasy fibre is classed (separated into different styles of wool) and baled
for transport to a scouring plant. Scouring removes the water-scourable contaminants, such
as grease, suint (sweat products) and wax. Other acquired impurities, such as vegetable
matter (VM), are removed during the spinning process. Heavily contaminated wool may
need to be carbonised (treated with an acid solution). This process burns the VM, allowing
it to be crushed to a powder and removed.

Keratin
Wool is a protein composed of amino acid monomers which collectively are called
‘keratin’, the wool polymer.

It is generally accepted that 18 monomers make up keratin.

Proteins are giant molecules built up by the condensation of a number of comparatively
simple amino acids in which the amino nitrogen is attached to the CH2 group adjacent to
the carboxyl radical, for example CH3 CH2 (NH2) COOH (alanine). See the diagram
below.
H

NH2 C COOH

Amino group Carboxylic acid group

R

Side-group

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Properties
Moisture handling Water-liking fibre with a natural moisture content of 16%. Can
hold up to 30% without feeling unduly damp

Fibre length 50–400 mm

Elongation at break 25–35 % dry, 25–50% wet

Tenacity (cn/tex) 9–15 dry, 7–14 wet

Effect of heat Does not burn readily; loses softness after boiling; yellows at
130°C; chars at 300°C

Resistance to acid Good resistance to most acids; decomposes in strong sulphuric

acid; damaged by nitric acid

Resistance to alkali Poor resistance

Organic attack Attacked by moths and insects; good resistance to

microorganisms

Handling characteristics Excellent wrinkle resistance due to its excellent flexibility and
elasticity properties; wonderful handle and draping properties
due to its structure and mechanical properties (flexibility and
elasticity)
Shrinkage Care must be used when washing due to wool’s tendency to
shrink (felt)

Insulation Superb insulation properties

Uses
Wool’s uses include apparel, carpets, blankets, handcrafts, industrial felts and upholstery.

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Fact sheet – Tencel
Tencel is a new generation viscose fibre made using an environmentally sensitive chemical
path. See the diagram below.

Wood pulp

Dissolve Amine oxide

Filter Evaporate

Extrude
Purify

Wash

Dry Fibre

Flow chart for the manufacture of Tencel.

Properties
• Regenerated cellulose fibre, which has good wet and dry strength.

• Hydrophilic fibre with a standard regain of 6–8%.

• Poor elasticity and resilience, similar to cotton in its creasing properties.

• Easily dyed.

• Alkali-resistant; damaged by acids.

• Tencel can be blended with other fibres to produce a product that combines the best
features of each fibre in the blend.

• Versatile material that can be engineered for many end uses.

Uses
Tencel is used for apparel.

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Fact sheet – Nylon
The generic name for Nylon is polyamide. Nylon was the first commercially successful
synthetic. It was introduced in 1938 and is the second most used synthetic fibre.

Manufacture
Nylon is made from chemicals derived from coal and gas. It is an extremely versatile
material that can be engineered for many end uses. Nylon is melt spun and is produced in
staple and continuous filament form.

Nylon polymer is not produced in Australia; however, the fibre is spun from imported
polymer.

Adipic acid Hexamethylene

diamine

Staple (cut)

C.F.
Texturise
Chipper

Reactor Melt spinning

Flat

Autoclave

Flow chart for the manufacture of Nylon.

There are three main types of Nylon: Nylon 6, Nylon 6.6 and Nylon 11. The numbers refer
to the carbon atoms in the monomer.
Starting chemicals for polyamide Nylon 6.6.

Hexamethylene diamine Adipic acid Polyhexamethylene

adipamide

Properties
Moisture handling Hydrophobic fibre with a natural moisture content of 1.5–4%.
depending on version (6.6, 6, 11) Can be engineered to ‘wick’
moisture away from the body

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Fibre length Any length required

Elongation at break 15–50%. depending on tenacity style (high, medium or low)

Tenacity (cn/tex) 20–85 cn/tex depending on tenacity, that is high, medium or low
Effect of heat Shrinks from flame; melts and burns; sometimes described as
self-extinguishing. A thermoplastic fibre, Nylon 6 melts at
215°C, Nylon 6.6 at 250°C; heat settable

Resistance to acid Poor

Resistance to alkali Excellent

Organic attack No problem

Handling characteristics Reasonable handle and excellent elasticity

Shrinkage Not a problem

Insulation Depends on fibre shape

Uses
Nylon has apparel, industrial, geotextile, medical and domestic uses.

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 Fact sheet – polyester
Manufacture
Polyester is made from chemicals derived from petroleum, coal, air and water. It is melt
spun, see the diagram below. Polyester is the most used synthetic fibre, especially in
apparel. Polyester drink bottles can be recycled into useful apparel fibres.

Polyester polymer is not produced in Australia; however, the fibre is spun from imported
polymer.

Ethylene glycol Terepthalic acid

Staple (cut)

C.F.
Texturise
Chipper

Reactor Melt
spinning
Flat

Dryer

Properties
Moisture Handling Hydophobic fibre with a natural moisture content of 0.5%
Fibre length Comes as continuous filament or staple of any length

Elongation at break 8–50%, depending on tenacity style (high, medium or low)

Tenacity 50–80 cn/tex, depending on tenacity (high, medium or low)

Effect of heat Melts at 260°C; thermoplastic; heat settable; softens at 230–

240°C

Resistance to acid Good

Resistance to alkali Satisfactory for textile use

Organic attack No problem

Handling characteristics Stiff, hard handle; excellent crease resistance

Uses
Polyester has apparel, domestic textile, industrial, geotextile and medical uses.

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
 Fact sheet – Polypropylene
Manufacture
Polypropylene was first produced in Italy in 1952. It is made by polymerising propylene
gas and is melt spun. It is very difficult to dye as a fibre and is generally dope dyed when
extruded.

Polypropylene polymer is produced in Australia and spun in various places around the
country.

Propylene gas

Staple (cut)

C.F.
Texturise
Chiipper

Reactor
Melt
spinning
Flat

Melt spinning of polypropylene

Starting chemicals for polypropylene.

Isotactic configuration:
All methyl groups are on the same side.

Properties
Moisture handling Hydophobic fibre, which has a natural moisture content of 0.1%
but can be engineered to ‘wick’ moisture

Fibre length Comes as continuous filament or staple of any length

Elongation at break 8–60%, depending on tenacity style (high, medium or low)

Tenacity 50–80 cn/tex, depending on tenacity (high, medium or low). A

special version of this fibre (Dyneema) is currently the strongest
readily available fibre

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Effect of heat Has a low melting point at 135–170°C (depending on version);
thermoplastic; heat settable; softens at 127–160°C (depending on
version)

Resistance to acid Good

Resistance to alkali Good

Organic attack No problem

Handling characteristics Soft handle and drape, depending on version. Lightest of all
synthetic fibres

Uses
Uses include carpet, sportswear, carpet backing, thermal wear, sacks, ropes, fleecy-lined
fabric, polypropylene–wool blend blankets; outdoor uses, ropes and twine.

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Fact sheet – Lycra
Lycra is the elastane fibre made by Dupont. It was first made in the 1940s. It is made of
85% segmented polyurethane polymer.

Lycra is used in garments in two ways: in the fabric, blended with other (80% Nylon, 20%
Lycra) and in elastic banding.

Production
Lycra is a chemically complicated fibre to make, going through several stages before
extrusion. It is extruded in monofilaments and multi-filaments.

Representation of an elastane molecule.

Properties
• Lycra has rubber like properties, after stretching it will recover its original length
(100% recovery). It can stretch up to seven times its length and return.

• Lycra can be readily dyed.

• Lycra has better chemical resistance than rubber.

• Lycra is resistant to sunlight, perspiration, laundering and cosmetic oils.

Uses
Lycra is used in car upholstery, swimwear, active sportswear, hosiery, socks, jeans and
medical items, for example, bandages.

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Facts sheet – Acrylic
Manufacture
Acrylic is made from chemicals derived from petroleum, coal, air and water. It can be
either wet or dry spun.

Acrylic is not produced in Australia. It is imported in staple and continuous filament form.

Acetylene Hydrogen cyanide

Other
monomer
Reactor
Staple (cut)

C.F.
Texturise

Polymerisation tank Wet

spinning
Flat

Flow diagram showing the process of acrylic manufacture.

Properties
• May be blended with other fibres

• Melts at between 215° and 255°C

• Hydrophobic fibre. Does not absorb much water (between 1 and 3%)

• Strong
• In bi-component form is able to be texturised to resemble wool

• Excellent chemical resistance

• Excellent sunlight resistance

Uses
Acrylic is used in apparel, carpets, blankets, awning materials and industrial materials.

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Properties of common fibres
Best and worst properties

Fibres Best properties Worst properties

Cotton Strength (dry and wet) Inelasticity (creasing)

Good moisture absorption Acid resistance-poor
Durability Flammability
Alkali resistance Dull unless mercerised
Low cost Attacked by micro-organisms (rots)
Readily bleached
Antistatic
Cool
Low cost
Flax Durability Inelasticity (creasing)
Moisture absorption Flammability
Strength (Dry and Wet) Cottonising
Good thermal contact Poor drape
(cool) High cost
Lustrous when ironed
Silk Strength Cost
Smoothness Sensitivity to sunlight alkali and
Lustre perspiration
Moisture absorption ‘Yellowing’
Only fair durability
Very high cost
Wool Moisture absorption Felting shrinkage
Elasticity and resilience Alkali sensitivity
Insulating properties Poor sunlight resistance
Flame retardant Attacked by micro-organisms and
Drape insects
Antistatic Relatively weak
Moderate to high cost
Viscose rayon Low cost Poor durability
Moisture absorption Acid and alkali sensitive
Variable lustre and fibre Poor sunlight resistance
details Flammability
Anti-static Low wet strength
Versatile Low wrinkle resistance
Tencel High strength (wet and dry) Flammability
Moisture absorption Low wrinkle resistance
Variable lustre and fibre
details

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Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
 Fibres Best properties Worst properties
Anti-static
Available in staple and
continuous filament

Acetate Soft handle and drape Low strength

Smoothness Acid and alkali sensitive
Lustre Poor durability
Sensitive to heat
Nylon Strength Poor absorption
Durability-high abrasion ‘Yellowing’
resistance Affected by the weather
Elasticity Acid and sunlight sensitive
Easy-care Develops static
Thermoplasticity Burns with melting
Alkali resistance
Polyester Strength Poor absorption
Durability Develops static
Elasticity Relatively expensive to dye
Thermoplasticity Certain types subject to pilling
Easy care Burns with melting
Chemically inert
Remains white
Acrylic Sunlight resistance Heat sensitive
Resistant to acids and Poor moisture absorption
domestic alkali (washing) Pilling
Durability May be subject to ‘yellowing’
Soft handle after texturising Care is required to wash or dry
(bulky, wool -like) clean
Develops static
Moderate abrasion resistance
Olefins: Good insulating (thermal) Low melting point
Polyolefin properties Poor resilience
Polyropylene Very low density (less than Must be coloured during extrusion
Polyethylene water)
Good abrasion resistance
Low cost
Polyurethane High extensibility and High rate of stress decay relative to
elastomer (Lycra) recovery rubber
Dyeable
Resistant to sunlight,
perspiration, laundering and
cosmetic oils

Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers 27

Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Regain of fibres

Natural fibres Regain Natural fibres Regain

% %
Abaca 14.00 Jute 17.00
Alfa 14.00 Kapok 10.90
Broom 14.00 Kenaf 17.00
Coir 13.00 Maguey 14.00
Cotton: Ramie 8.50
• normal fibre 8.50 Silk 11.00

• mercerised fibres 10.50 Sisal 14.00

Flax 12.00 Sunn 12.00

Hemp 12.00 Wool and animal hair 16.00
Henequen 14.00

Man-made and synthetic Regain Man-made and synthetic Regain

fibres % fibres %
Acetate 9.00 Paper yarn 13.75
Acrylic 2.00 Polycarbamide 2.00
Alginate 20.00 Polyester:
Chlorofibre 2.00 • staple fibre 1.50
Cuproammonium viscose 13.00 • continuous filament 3.00
Elastane 1.50 Polyethylene 1.50
Elastodiene 1.00 Polynosic (modal) viscose 13.00
Fluorofibre 0.00 Polypropylene 2.00
Glass fibre: Polyurethane:
• continuous filament with a 2.00 • staple fibre 3.50
diameter of over 5 µm • continuous filament 3.00
• continuous filament with a 3.00 Protein 17.00
diameter of 5 µm or less
Metal fibre 2.00 Triacetate 7.00
Metallised fibre 2.00 Trivinyl 3.00
Modacrylic 2.00 Vinylal 5.00
Nylon (6.6) and Nylon 6: Viscose 13.00
• staple fibre 6.25
• continuous filament 5.75
Nylon 11:
• staple fibre 3.50
• continuous filament 3.50

(Source: Australian/NZ Standards.)

28 Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers

Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Fibre densities

Fibre Density Fibre Density

gm/cm3 gm/cm3
Acetate Nylon
Diacetate (Dicel) 1.33 Nylon 11 (Rilsan) 1.10
Triacetate (Tricel) 1.30 Nylon 6 (Perlon) 1.13
Nylon 6.6 (ICI Nylon) 1.14
Acrylic Polyester
Orlon 1.14–1.17 Kodel 1.22
Courtelle 1.14–1.18 Terylene, Vycron 1.38
Zefran 1.15
Acrilan, Creslan 1.17
Aramid Polyolefin
Nomex 1.38 Polypropylene (Ulstron) 0.90
Alginate Polyethylene, Low-density 0.92
(Courlene) 0.95
Calcium alginate 1.72
Polyethylene, High-density
(Courlene X3)
Chlorofibre Polyurethane elastomers
Heat-treated PVC (Isovyl) 1.38 (approximate values)
Unmodified PVC (Rhovyl, 1.40 Enkaswing, Lycra, Sarlane, 1.1
Fibravyl) 1.54 Spanzelle
Chlorinated PVC (Piviacid) 1.70 Rabbit
Polyvinylidene (chloride) Common 0.92
(Velan, Saran) Angora 1.10
Cotton Ramie 1.55
Scoured 1.55 Regenerated protein fibre
Mercerised 1.54 Merinova 1.29
Acetylated 1.40–1.50’
Cuproammonium Rayon 1.52 Silk
B, mori, raw 1.33
FLAX 1.50
Weighted > 1.60
Tussah 1.32
Fluorofibre Vinylal
Teflon 2.30 Kuralon 1.30
Glass
E-glass 2.53 Viscose 1.51–1.52
C-glass 2.46
A-glass 2.46 Wool
S-glass 2.45 Non-medullated 1.31
Hemp 1.50

Jute 1.50

Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers 29

Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
 Modacrylic
Dynel 1.31
Teklan 1.34
Verel 1.37
According to degree of acetylation.

30 Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers

Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Melting points

Fibre Temperature (°C)

Acetate (secondary) 250–255

Triacetate 290–300
Acrylic Partial melting depending on proportion of copolymer, i.e.
higher proportion of copolymer greater degree of melting
Aramid Does not melt
Chlorofibre:
• Clevyl 185–190
• Isovyl 210–212
• leavil Does not melt, decomposes with discolouration
Fluorofibres
• Teflon FEP 285
• Teflon TFE Does not melt, decomposes slowly
Modacrylic
• Dynel 180 190
• others Partial melting depending on proportion of Copolymer,
i.e. higher proportion of copolymer greater degree of
melting
Nylon
• 11 182–186
• 6 210–216
• 6.6 252–260

Polyester
• KodelI II 290
• Terylene 260–270
Polyolefin
• Ulstron 168–175
• Courlene 108–113
• CourleneX3 135
Vinylal
• Mewlon 232

Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers 31

Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
References
All fibres
www.lib.rmit.edu.au

www.encyclopedia.com

(Some information is free, but generally a pay service.)

www.texguide.com/news_group

www.texmondo.com

www.texi.org/index-a.htm

Natural fibres
Wool
www.wool.com

Cotton
www.cottonaustralia.com.au

www.cotton-net.com

www.icac.org

www.fuster.com

Man-made fibres
www.fibersource.com
www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/techpag.htm

www.dupont.com
www.psrc.usm.com

The following sites are useful for information on the latest on government regulations and
publications:

www.ausinfo.gov.au (State Government information)

www.agip.gov.au (Commonwealth Government publications)

www.standards.com.au (Australia and New Zealand Standards)

Recommended texts
Fritz & Cant, Consumer Textiles, Oxford University Press.

Gohl & Vilensky, Textiles for Modern Living, Longman.

Hatch, K.L., Textile Science, West Publishing.

Textile Institute, Textile Terms and Definitions.

32 Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers

Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
Tortora, Understanding Textiles, Macmillan.

Wynne (Ed.), Textiles – The Motivate Series, Macmillan.

Other useful materials

Other useful materials include videos, CD-ROMs, databases, manufacturers’ promotional
and training materials (including pamphlets, brochures, videos and CD-ROMs) and
software.

Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers 33

Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott
34 Australian wool – knowledge for designers and retailers
Textile fibres: Ms Sue Scott