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ROAD – MAP FOR FOOTWEAR PRODUCTION: 3D LAST SCANNING – 3D

DESIGNING – INDUSTRIAL MANUFACTURING

Conference Paper · November 2016

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ROAD – MAP FOR FOOTWEAR PRODUCTION:

3D LAST SCANNING – 3D DESIGNING – INDUSTRIAL MANUFACTURING

T. Spahiu1, B. Sarghie 2, E. Piperi3, E. Shehi1 and A. Agolli1

1
Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Textile and Fashion Department in Polytechnic University of Tirana

2
“Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial
Management, 28, D. Mangeron Street, Iasi, Romania

3
Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Department of Production and Management in Polytechnic
University of Tirana

Keywords: laser scanning, photogrametry, shoe last, last dimensions

Abstract

3D data capture of the human body is used in different areas such as clothing and footwear
industry. The foot, as an important part of the human body, and foot digitalization, plays an
important role for manufacturing shoe lasts and shoes with the right fit. Nowadays, due to
technological advancements, the 3D shape of the foot can be used to produce shoe lasts, faster
and with more accurate results, and to design new shoe models more easily. Various scanning
systems are developed and implemented to allow the users to acquire accurate 3D surface data of
the foot shape. Using this systems along with specialized software programs, it will be possible
to integrate the requirements regarding a shoe fit, into the design and manufacturing processes.
The shoe last model plays an important role for footwear production. The technology is mainly
based on active methods such as laser scanning. From a wide variety of 3D scanning systems, 3D
low cost scanning systems have been developed and adapted for foot and shoe lasts
digitalization. The main porpose of the work is shoe last scanning with two active scanning
systems. 3D last models taken by digitalization are converted in 3D software for shoes designing.
Personalized library of shoe last gives the possibility to create different shoe models used for
industrial production.

1 Introduction

3D data capture of human body is used in various application, such as clothing and footwear
industry. Taking the real form of human body means taking accurate anthopometric data and
moreover manufacturing garments and footwear with the right fit. Nowdays, due to technological
advancements, the 3D shape of the foot can be used to produce shoe lasts. Thereby, accelerating
the process, more easily and with more accurate results for the designing of the new shoe

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models. Various scanning systems are developed and implemented to allow the users acquiring
accurate 3D surface data of the foot shape, which can be used to obtain anthropometric data of
the human foot [1]. The high costs are an disadvantage of scanning systems to be used for
different application. Low cost scanning systems are another opportunity for foot digitalization
and have been presented as an application for the footwear industry [2]. A prediction method to
model foot shapes through scaling a standard foot by using limited parameter can be used at a
retail shop to acquire 3D foot shape information [3].
Low cost scanning systems using laser technology has been developed to capture 3D foot
model [4], [5], which are used to create the shoe last. Also, low cost scanning system is created
as a key component for producing custom footwear. These scanning systems are based on active
systems using off the shelf hardware like web camera and a video projector [6], [7]. Other
authors have shown the feasibility of reconstructing accurately 3D foot model by using images
taken with a regular smarphone [8]. The classical method for footwear designing is time
consuming and requires the application of different graphical stages for footwear designing. 3D
CAD programs for footwear designing follow almost the same steps as traditional one. 3D CAD
programs enables direct modeling of the footwear [9], shoe last modeling [10], or creating
custom shoe last based on individual subjects’s feet anthropometric dimensions [11].
Evaluating footwear fit within the shoe last database should help users to improve comfort,
especially for mass customization approach in footwear design [12]. In order to enhance the
efficiency and application of last development, a methodology of applying 3D reconstruction to
3D last morphing is proposed in the study, the aim of flexibly adjusting last size to fit the form of
feet can be reached by the brick piling data structure [13]. The customization of 3D last form
design is another application to enhace the efficiency and application of last development [14].
Reconstructing the surface of the foot can be done by using a neural-network-based GNG
methodology, which obtains a surface representation adapted to the topology of the foot [15].

2 Methodology

In this study a reverse engineering method is applied to scan the shoe last models, which is
used for shoes designing. The 3D last model generated from scanned data is used for conversion
by 3D program of shoe design. In this way creating a personalized library of shoe lasts.
Methodology followed in this work as a road-map for footwear production by using 3D
technology comprises different steps. In Fig. 1 are shown the main steps followed in this work.

Fig. 1. Road-Map for footwear production by using 3D technology: 1) last scanning; 2) converting 3D
last model; 3) footwear designing; 4) shoes model.
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2.1 Last digitalization using 3D scanning systems

Last digitalization as an important tool for 3D foot designing is done by using active
systems such as Konica Minolta VIVID 910, and INFOOT USB SCAN [16]. Both these
systems are based on laser technology. INFOOT USB SCAN is a commercial scanning system
for foot digitalization and extracting anthropometric data. The scanner is equipped with eight
cameras, that capture foot data form different angles. Later these data are processed to create the
3D foot model. Dedicated software for extracting foot anthropometric data Measure 2.8,
recognise the foot shape and markers can be placed to determine anatomical points. Based on
these points, automatic extraction of foot anthropometric data can be generated. In Fig. 2 are
shown views of last preparation for scanning process, INFOOT USB scanning system, during
last digitalization and 3D last model with some anatomical points to extract last dimensions.

Fig. 2. Foot scanning system INFOOT USB; a) the last; b) last preparation for scanning; c) foot scanning
system; d) during last scan; e) scan image; f) 3D mesh model of the last; g) 3D last model.

Meanwhile, Konica Minolta VIVID 910 is a commercial scanning system but not
dedicated for foot digitalization, in these work it was adapted for this purpose. Before starting
the scanning process, sistem calibration is required. Different single scans are taken from the
last. Data processing, alignement of single scans are different steps followed to create the 3D
mesh file of the shoe last. Some specification during the scanning process are given in Table 1.

Table 1. Characteristics during the last scanning process

Lens Middle
Focal length f = 14
Single scans 8
Scanning time 3 min

In Fig. 3 are shown different steps of the scanning process with Konica Minolta VIVID 910.

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Fig. 3. Laser scanning system Konica Minolta VIVID 910; a) shoe last; b) system calibration; c) last
scanning; d) single scan with PET [17]; e) 3D last model; f) section planes on 3D last model.

2.2 Data comparison from 3D scanning systems

3D captured by both scanning systems used for last digitalization have passed various steps
used during 3D data manipulation and creating 3D last models. Being in the same conditions for
data comparison taken from both scanning systems has been one of the reasons the last models
are used. Advanced software as Geomagic Studia and Geomagic Qualify [18] for data
manipulation and 3D data comparison are used during these processes. The Test-to-Reference
report generated from 3D data comparsion have color mapping of results, where deviations in
different locations of 3D last model are displayed graphically using customized colors (Fig. 4).
The value of Standard Deviation and Average Error resulted from data comparisons are shown in
Table 2.

Fig. 4. Color mapping results from 3D data comparison

Table 2. Results from 3D deviation

Standard Deviation (mm) 0.4791

Average Deviation (mm) 0.2867/-0.5941
Average Error (mm) 0.5375

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Nr. Of Data Points (mm) 616568

# Outliers 488

2.3 Converting 3D last models

The shoe last is an important tool for footwear designing. As a mold for footwear it gives
the possibilities to create different design. According to the fashion trends, which dictate many
design elements, there are different types of lasts. The development of 3D technology have
introduced the use of last in the 3D software for footwear designing. Further, digitized 3D last
model can be used for footwear designing. By this way, they are a new possibility to 3D design
footwear on other last, which are not part of the program library. Delcam Crispin Shoemaker
[19] is the 3D software for converting the 3D scanned last and further use for shoes designing.
Converting 3D last models in the program is followed by different steps. Last identification
Wizard compromises the stages as below (Fig. 5) :

 Points on the last as heel top point; Heel bottom point; Toe point; Cone point.
 Curves on the last: Top curve; Feather curve.
 Last orientation: Heel; Toe-Spring; Swivel.
 Attributes of the last;
 Flattening.

Fig. 5. Main steps followed during the last converting process.

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2.4 3D Footwear desinging

The main scope of a 3D shoe designing program is shoe pattern design over the digital
model of the last. In this way converting the scanned 3D last models helps creating a
personalized last library, which can be used for different shoes models. Using program tools
makes more reliable the virtual display of shoe models. Fig. 6 dispalys some of the steps during
the designing process. After finishing the designing process, shoe pattern pieces can be exported
in various formats and printed, further to be used for other process of shoes manufacturing.

Fig. 6. Some of the steps during the shoes designing: a) designing over 3D last; b) creating shoe-piece; c)
creating shoe sole.

2.5 Footwear production in industry

For footwear designing, pattern-maker use footwear lasts. Their production is linked with
foot shape and shoes stype which is going to be produced. There are different last produced in
different sizes or numbers. Advanced 3D program for footwear designing are equipped with their
last library, used for shoes designing. Meanwhile, there are different last which are not part of
this library. The use of 3D scanning systems for last digitalization has made possible the creation
of 3D virtual last. Afterwards they can be printed by using 3D printing technology to be used in
the other process of footwear production.
An industrial application of this technology for shoes manufacturing is realized in FITAL
Company, which is one of the biggest company in Albania, producing for well-known brands
such as Girza, Pittarello, Cozmo, Pipinato, Zeelane, Scarpe-Scarpe, Punto Scarpe, Biella,
Deichmann, Hamreno, Leiser, Vetir, Desmasieres, Beson, Caussures, Other, Spartoo, Mayers,
Wertich. In Fig. 7 are shown the main steps followed during the shoe production process.
Numbers from 1 to 5 shows respectively: 1) metal forms used for leather cutting and leather
pieces; 2) the process of assembling leather with linning; 3) the process of stitching parts
together; 4) different steps followed before alignment of the shoe sole; 5) the final shoes.

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Fig. 7. Main steps from the process of shoes production in the FITAL Company

3 Results and discussions

Last digitalization by 3D scanning systems showed fast and accurate results. Test-to-
Reference analysis of Konica Minolta VIVID 910 and INFOOT USB Scan showed low value of
standard deviation 0.47 mm and RMS error 0.62 mm. The main problem for data capturing of
the shoe last was the sole of the last. Implemented system requires another last position, in such a
way to acquire 3D dichital data. This compared with foot scanning systems which are equipped
with sensors for capturing foot data in different angles. In this way capturing the whole 3D foot
data in the same time.

4 Conclusions

The work presented in this paper has shown a Road-Map for footwear designing by using
3D technology. Last digitalization as an important tool for footwear designing and production is
done by using two scanning systems INFOOT USB SCAN and Konica Minolta VIVID 910. The
implementation process of Konica Minolta VIVID 910 for foot and last scanning showed fast
and accurate results. Test to Reference analysis of the adapted and dedicated system for foot
digitalization showed low value of standard deviation. These shows the usability of adapted
system for foot and last digitalization.
Creating personalized library by last digitalization as a “reverse engineering” process, gives
the possibility to create different shoes models by using lasts which are not part of 3D shoe

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designing programs. Patterns of the shoe models can be exported in different format, for further
use in the shoe production process. Sharing 3D last model and 3D footwear design, as e new way
to shorten the time and costs needed before the shoe production.

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