MAKING YOUR LIFE

IN FRANCE
LESS TAXING

FRENCH NEWS IN ENGLISH SINCE 2002

connexionfrance.com July/August 2023 Issue 249 €6.25

We must help foreign second How I caught

the rugby bug
home owners, says senator from my town P7
P13

Estate agents criticised for high fees – and they are not happy
ESTATE agents have defended their ty value, from as much as 9.5% for the chasing power – for example, by mak- all these services up one by one, it would The rules are governed by the 1970
commission rates after France’s cheapest 10% of homes to 3.8% for the ing the rules on practising estate agency be enormous – and with a total lack of ‘Hoguet law’, which lists the services
national competition regulator criti- most expensive 10%. more flexible. any guarantee of being paid,” he said. that card-carrying estate agents must
cised their fees, which are higher than In 2018, French fees were, on average, However, Eric Allouche, CEO of the “Assume a buyer can’t get a mortgage provide, along with obligations such as
the European average. 5.2% without tax (6.5% with tax) while ERA Immobilier France network, said in the end. We have organised visits, insurance, financial guarantees, writ-
The average fee in 2022 was 5.78% the EU average was 3.3%, said the regu- comparisons with other countries are negotiated, advertised, drawn up a pre- ten mandates and record-keeping.
including taxes, or €12,463, according lator, using European Com­mission data. “like comparing apples and oranges”. sale contract, assembled all the docu- The authority said the law may be
to the Autorité de la concurrence, an The authority recommended that “Here we take care of everything, ments, and get nothing at the end of it.” out of date as new practices, already
advisory body to the government. action should be taken to lower rates from the start to the end, and it’s forbid- Advertising alone can cost €1,000/ operational, work without adhering to
Fees varied, depending on the proper- towards the EU average to boost pur- den to charge any extras. If you added month on certain websites, he said. è Turn to Page 2

New French Franco-British pilot joins

July 14 aerobatic flypast
Change to dental
reimbursements
P10

Brexit report
‘It’s a mess: rare
5.8 earthquake
hit our house’

warns of 2024
border delays
Concerns also raised for new residents and school trips A BRITISH couple were horrified to
hear their holiday home was damaged
by Liv Rowland deployment of pre-registration booths for EES by the rare 5.8-scale earthquake that
has been agreed at St Pancras, and at Dover no hit much of western France on June 16.
FEARS of major delays at airports and ports UK public support has been announced at this Retirees Caroline Galpin and partner
next year and a dwindling British community stage,” says the report. People might fly rather Simon Crowther, pictured outside their
in the south-west are two points raised by a than take the train to avoid extra waiting, it adds. home in Deux-Sèvres, flew here from
new report into the effects of Brexit on France. A UK Home Office spokesman said it was the UK expecting the worst after being
Issues for new British residents and visitors working closely with the French govern- sent photos by a neighbour of a large
as well as for exchange students and school ment to be ready on this. crack in a wall and plaster on the floor.
trips were also highlighted as was a lack of Eurostar declined to comment. “It is a mess: doors don’t shut and a
workers to carry out obligatory border veter- The report urges that an agreement should window lintel is cracked, but we can
inary tests and a drop in exports to the UK. be signed this year to ensure that border stay. It could be worse,” said Caroline.
The report, published in June by the public infrastructure is in place. The couple bought the house in
finance watchdog Cour des comptes, claims Some €80million has been spent on new port Mauzé-sur-le-Mignon 14 years ago
there is a lack of agreement and insufficient infrastructure in France for freight checks. and are doing it up slowly.
preparation relating to UK travellers for the Five new freight and passenger ferry lines A neighbour is among the estimated
European Entry/Exit System (EES), which is between France and Ireland have opened. 170 people in the surrounding area
due to launch in 2024. The report notes that provisions were made told to leave their homes.
Photo: Photo: Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Brexit means travellers from the UK, if not for existing British residents and “the vast “There is a danger that the whole lot
EU nationals or residents, are subject to this. majority were able to stay if they wanted to” might fall,” said Caroline.
The first tests of systems for EES, which will post-Brexit. “However, in contrast, Brexit The village is in the area that has been
involve collection of photo and fingerprint brings difficulties for newcomers, tourists declared a catastrophe naturelle, which
data on entry to the Schengen area, indicate it and, above all, young people who are the bed- should open the way to insurance
could take twice – maybe three times – as rock of future UK-France relations,” it says. claims being honoured.
long to get people through border controls. It adds that many school trips and exchang-
Particular concerns are noted for controls es with the UK have been cancelled. L 14574 - 249 - F: 6,25 € - RD
in the UK, where French border checks are Young French people can no longer go to
carried out at Dover, London St Pancras and the UK to work as au pairs or on work place- Franco-British pilot Captain Jayson Troy is joining the Patrouille
the Channel Tunnel. “No positioning or è Turn to Page 2 de France aerobatics team for Paris’ July 14 flypast: Page 11
2 News connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023
HIGHLIGHTS
News
List of new areas able to raise taxe d’habitation revealed
1-11
3
How Brexit has affected France
Food shop beats import hassle
Will DIY projects be made eligible for renovation grants? 4 Î Continued from page 1 area for a ‘British experience’, as
-ments. French students going opposed to going to the UK.
Drivers sue Renault over faulty engines 5
to the UK face visa costs of €363, “They go to the English tea-
Free healthcare scheme reinstated for foreign retirees 6 a ‘health surcharge’, high inter- shops, have tours of the town
We must help ease 90/180 rule, says French senator 7 national tuition fees, and no UK and come to us for convers-
Conservationists clash with hunters over new ‘pests’ list 8 student loans. Visa-related costs ational groups. The president of
Puppeteer recreates journey of first giraffe in France 9 for young professionals going to the cricket club gave a talk.”
New changes: Speeding fines, dental fees, trains to Spain 10 jobs are an estimated €6,590 Other points in the Cour des
Patrouille de France: 70 years of amazing aerobatics 11 (compared to €376 for France), comptes report include:
which large firms will absorb, n Goods exports to the UK are

Photo: Rebecca Smith

Comment 12-17 but not smaller ones. slightly down since 2019, while
‘We don’t regret homeschooling in France’ 12
Simplifications for school trips up 32% to other EU countries;
Why La Rochelle loves rugby 13
and general ‘dialogue on mobil- n 2,800 jobs in finance have
Simon Heffer/Richard Ogier 14
ity’ were among items highlight- been created due to City work-
Limiting GPs’ freedom ‘not the answer’/ Nabila Ramdani 15
ed for future discussion at A NEW British food shop has opened in Antibes, near Cannes, ers moving to Paris;
Readers’ letters 16-17
March’s Franco-British summit. five months after Geoffrey’s of London, a Riviera institution for n Insufficient veterinary and
Practical 18-21 Joel Bailey, headteacher of more than 30 years, closed citing Brexit import constraints. plant health inspectors necessi-
Your questions 18 The Old School in Dordogne, The owner of British Smith’s is bypassing health checks and tated by Brexit. The report
Topping up a UK/US state pension from France 19 which prepares pupils for UK paperwork by buying goods from firms in the EU that have notes that inbound UK checks
Less is often more with French language learning 20 exams, said it no longer organ- already imported them in bulk. This particularly helps with are still not fully in place;
Dentist shortage ‘is unlikely to improve for many years’ 21 ises UK trips because non- meat and dairy items. n Income from UK visitors

24
British pupils need passports, Rebecca Smith said: “We’ve managed to get Bovril back, and was down 41% in 2021 com-
Photo: lOT Touraine

which many do not have, or fresh products, as well as frozen bacon and sausages.” pared to 2019, as opposed to a
PAGES even visas in some cases. ID She said, however, she regrets that it is now not possible 26% drop for EU visitors.
French living cards were accepted pre-Brexit.
He said Bri­tish families from
to recruit young Britons for summer season work. It also says that France was
entitled to €736million of EU
France’s passion for the bicycle around the world, and others year card for a permanent one, noted an influx of Parisians to funds to compensate for Brexit
Interview: Hélène Carrère d’Encausse, wanting a Bri­tish education, are is “complex and protracted”. areas such as Eymet that had and support firms, but expects
chair of the Académie française choosing his school rather than Some older, more vulnerable been regenerated by the British, to use less than a third.
The blusher’s guide to rosé wine returning to the UK, which is people had returned to the UK though it retains “a spirit of Out of €400million earmar­k-
To be a pilgrim in medieval Toulouse “becoming a less attractive due to paperwork issues, he said. Britishness”. ed for businesses, only one large
Quiz, bilingual crosswords, puzzles place to work”, while UK quali- According to the Cour des The Franco-British Network, company is expected to benefit,
fications are still appreciated. comptes report, the British which helps British business from a €22million grant.
Meanwhile, young Britons in community in the Dordogne is people set up in the south west, France, and some other coun-
DIRECTORY 22-27 France are looking to EU uni- “not being renewed”. says it is still receiving queries tries, obtained permission to
versities, which are cheaper Mr Bailey, however, said he but getting qualifications recog- redirect 70% of these funds to
Challenges facing pharmacies 28
than the UK and are increasing- believes Britons will continue to nised for British tradespeople is energy renovation instead.
What you can do at a mairie apart from get married 29 ly offering courses in English. come, though they are more now an issue. We asked the Prime Minister’s
Profile: World’s (often) richest man Bernard Arnault 30 Mr Bailey praised the French likely to be well-off. The president of the ACFAA office if it wished to comment
French choral music revival 31 authorities over the residency He had, however, noted a Franco-British cultural associa- but have not had a reply.
procedures for existing British trend of more British newcomers tion in the Dordogne, Claire
Money / Work/ Property 32-39 residents, though he said the settling in other parts of the Riley, said Brexit had seen a For the full Cour des
process for remaining formal- wider south-west, not just the new trend for French schools – comptes report (in French) visit
The Back Page 40 ities, such as changing a five- Dordogne specifically. He also and French adults – to visit the tinyurl.com/Brexit-France

Estate agent fees in spotlight

Alex and Emma Watson’s ‘love letter to Burgundy’
Extension to
Contact Us
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deadline for
connexionfrance.com Î pared to, for example, 35% in Germany). This is
Subscription queries:
this and without a large rise in complaints.
Alternatives include person-to-person selling
due to high expenses, Mr Allouche said.
Joanna Leggett, marketing director for the
property form
Nathalie: +33 (0)6 40 55 71 63* using listings websites (though sale deeds must be Leggett Immobilier network, said fees are often
*Rate set by your operator signed in front of a notaire), chasseurs immobiliers higher than in the UK because France is bigger THE June 30 deadline for home
Adverts: sales@connexionfrance.com (‘property hunters’), or coachs immobiliers. The and agents may, for example, drive an hour to a owners to complete the obliga-
Editorial: news@connexionfrance.com latter offer tips on buying or selling strategies. viewing. Employment costs are also higher. tory new biens immobiliers
Mr Allouche said the report was initiated at the Leggetts has a team that draws up pre-sale con- residential property declaration
Write to: The Connexion, request of the Finance Ministry in the context of tracts and guides clients through the buying pro- has been extended by a month.
Le Grande Bretagne, 30 Av. Grande Bretagne, 98000 Monaco cost-of-living rises, and it seems to have started cess, whereas in the UK the solicitor does this. The deadline is now July 31.
@ConnexionFrance from an assumption that agents charge too much. The industry is also much more regulated, she The Economy Ministry says
He said the amount received rises and falls with added. For example, an agent must undertake annu- the change is due to the large
The Connexion prices, and that clients accept this. A fixed fee altern- al training on laws and energy-efficiency rules. number of declarations being
ative is rarely seen, with the report noting that a few As for her agency in particular, she said they received towards the end of
Contributors: Liv Rowland, Ken Seaton, Simon Heffer, Nick Inman, Samantha David,
Brian McCulloch, Justin Postlethwaite, Nabila Ramdani, Théophile Larcher, Gillian Harvey,
online-only agencies (representing 1% of the mar- specialise in helping international clients, with the original period.
Martin Greenacre, Nick Jenkins Sub-editing: Sarah Henshaw Design: Lynne Spaight ket, mostly in cities) that used to offer it have tended bilingual agents, translations of documents, and The declaration has been
Proof reading: Richard Henshell Editorial consultant: Bruno Lacombe to revert to percentages. Mr Allouche said the sys- ‘hand-holding’ through the whole process. Agents brought in as a way to check
tem motivates agents to get a sale and a good price. will also often share local contacts, from plumbers that tax offices have up-to-date
Directrice de la Publication (Managing Editor): Sarah Smith Agencies are free to offer the rate they want, he to dentists, and even introduce the client to the information on how properties
Rédacteur-en-Chef (Editor-in-Chief): Sarah Smith said, but one network that made a selling point out mayor. “That all saves time, money and stress.” are used, due to the ending of
The Connexion is published by English Language Media Sarl of offering 4% had gone out of business. If your French is not good, trying to understand the taxe d’habitation on all main
Registered office: Le Grande Bretagne, 30 av. Grande Bretagne, 98000 Monaco Agencies are, however, open to negotiating on all the paperwork and negotiate on prices will be homes, say officials.
Environmental policy: fees to get a sale. This used to be banned, he said. difficult without an agent, she said, and if you use This is why the declaration
The Connexion is printed on recycled newspaper. “It is true there are some workers offering cheap- unlicensed services, you will have “no comeback if asks owners to confirm how
Subscribers to The Connexion receive their copy wrapped in er fees, but you don’t get the same service.” things go wrong”. properties are used: whether
biodegradable eco-friendly film. This is fully compostable at home. According to the report, 52% of sales are through “Nobody remembers how much the estate agent as main or second homes, left
Subscription prices: traditional agencies, and another 15% via mand- charged when they look back on the houses they vacant, given to someone else to
Annual: French address: €69, Les contenus Si vous souhaitez
copier et diffuser ataires, self-employed commercial workers who have lived in, but they do remember if they ended use, or rented out.
address outside France: €85.50, DE THE CONNEXION des articles de The Connexion
need a partnership with an agency and cannot up in court, lost money or have to watch dozens of It replaces other checks,
dans le cadre de votre
100% Digital: €54 sont protégés
Three-month: French address: €19.65,
activité professionnelle
supervise contract signing or take sales money. tourists hike past their door each day because they including a paper form prev-
par le Vous devez en demander Person-to-person is next most popular, at 30%. didn’t understand there was a public right of way.” iously sent by tax offices to
address outside France: €23.80,
100% Digital: €15 droit l’autorisation au CFC
Mr Allouche said it would be wrong to completely landlords to confirm occup-
Digital subscriptions only available if you d’auteur www.cfcopies.com

deregulate as has happened in Spain. The authority n Interest rates are expected to hit 4% by ation of their properties.
subscribe at connexionfrance.com Contact / dea@cfcopies.com

Encart abonnement sur une diffusion partielle. also suggested parts of the job could be done by September, compared to 1% in January 2022. An estimated 34 million peo-
Printed by Rotimpres, other workers, but Mr Allouche argued this would At the same time, estate agency federation Fnaim ple who own property, includ-
Impressions Rotatives, 17181 Aiguaviva (Girona), Espagne result in no one seeing it through “from A to Z”. predicts around a 15% drop in sales compared to ing non-residents, are required
All copyright is reserved to the publisher. Reproduction in whole or part of any
text without permission is strictly prohibited. The Connexion cannot accept
“Everyone in the profession is opposed to this last year, and an average lowering of prices of to file the forms.
responsibility for claims of advertisers or their professionalism. report. It is an aberration” he said. around 5%. So far, this has been more marked with The process is, in most cases,
Mensuel Depôt légal – a parution. According to the report, French agents make houses, which have seen a slight drop, compared to completed via the tax website
RCI 10 S 05218 ISSN: 1742 - 6421 CPPAP: 0126 I 85379 lower margins than the EU average (14% com- flats, where prices have plateaued, Fnaim says. impots.gouv.fr.
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com News 3

Debt collector ‘illegally Racing car built from jet tank

accessed’ EU driver data

MORE than 100 drivers living in France colleagues to do so for the entire EU,
have filed a complaint over fines relating asking for repayment of probably
to London’s Low and Ultra Low Emission millions of euros of fines, asking for
Zones (LEZ and ULEZ). damages, and suing the European author-
The fines, often going back months and ity that sent the data illegally to the UK.”
totalling thousands of euros, were sent to He also claims that a bailiff represent-
French addresses by the debt collection ing EPC contacted the Belgian govern-

Inset photo: Alena Veasey_shutterstock

agency Euro Parking Collection (EPC), ment asking for access to licence plate
despite Brexit ending the sharing of information, to take drivers to court in AN ARCHITECT used his passion I used the parts from an old Renault
information between the UK and EU. Belgium over unpaid fines – a request for old vehicles to build a racing car C4,” he said. He found the tank,
The complaint claims the “illicit collec- that was also denied. during Covid lockdowns from the which was used but not dropped
tion of personal data” and “fraudulently The Dutch licensing authority RDW disposable fuel tank of a Mirage jet. during France’s operations in
accessing or remaining within a data told The Connexion it had carried out its This novel use of ‘belly tanks’ – so- Africa, in Marseille. “You can find
system”, said lawyers Coralline Manier own investigation and found the data called because in World War Two anything there,” he said.
Galas and Romain Binelli, of Woog & was obtained through the Italian they were fixed to the belly of fight- The tank could be lifted with
Associés, who brought the case before Sarah Leedam, who lives in France, National Contact Point (NCP). ers before being dropped when one hand before the engine, a 4.5
the public prosecutor in France. received nine fines totalling £18,000 “The data was requested under the empty – became popular in America litre, 100HP petrol engine from a

“
“Over several months we sent formal for the ULEZ, sign inset. purpose limitation of the Cross Border during the 1940s and 1950s. Marmon military lorry built by
notices to EPC and TfL (Transport for Exchange Directive. If we receive such a Thibault Lagardère, from Lunel, Simca, and its transmission were
London) demanding to know how they request from a national authority who near Montpellier, built the car, nick- fitted. The motor is a French ver-
obtained this data,” said Maître Manier has the role of NCP, we are obliged to named Golgoth 1 after a comic book sion of a Ford one that was designed
Galas, adding that no response came. provide the data,” a spokesman said. character, to compete in a class of in the 1930s.
Their conclusion: “Either EPC, via one “However, the enforcement of LEZ/ the September Normandy Beach The Normandy event does not
of its subsidiaries in Europe, was able to We will unleash all the ULEZ does not fall within the scope of Race. He estimates it reaches speeds involve vehicles racing each other
collect the data that should never have this. We therefore contacted the Italian of 120-130km/h. or timed runs. The emphasis is on
made it to the UK. legal army we have to NCP and, at our instigation, they investi- “The running gear has to come the joy of running old machinery
“Or there is a mole – EPC itself, which gated. They said the authorised users from a vehicle from before 1949, so and watching it in action.
had access to the file, or a third party forcibly challenge fines have used the data in an unlawful way
giving this data to EPC. In any case, it is
illicit data collection,” said Maître Binelli.
They have also filed a complaint with
Michael Freilich,
Belgian MP
and closed the specific accounts.”
Sarah Leedam, who lives in France,
received nine fines totalling £18,000 for
Group deal for health insurance
the French data regulator CNIL. the ULEZ. She appears to have been A LEADING French consumer group is offering a grouped top-up health
Maître Binelli said they would be seek- “It received a letter from EPC request- erroneously charged the maximum rate insurance deal. UFC-Que Choisir invited bids for a group purchase after
ing damages if the collection is shown to ing access to their database, explaining it for a 3.5-tonne vehicle, and yet her criticising an average 7% hike in top-up premiums this year.
be illegal. “People have either already had contracts with European countries appeal was rejected. The deal, which is available until August 8, pledges no tariff change in the
paid the fines, in which case they suffer- such as Hungary. The request was denied “If this was not legal, I don’t see why I first two years and offers support from the group in case of unresolved
ed financial harm, or they have not paid as it came from a UK company. After should pay,” she said, adding: “As a disputes during this period. Visit tinyurl.com/qc-health. Click the button for
but suffered psychological harm due to that, it did not hear back, so I assume French resident but not a French citizen, a price estimate based on your age, where you live, and your health regime.
the relentless pressure from EPC.” EPC used a European proxy or partner I don’t have an MP to turn to. Every time If you are insured via an S1, this is equivalent to the régime général. The
They advise clients not to pay any fines firm to receive that access. I look at the dossier on my shelf, it gives self-employed should click TNS. It costs, for example, €67/month for a
but to appeal against them, as many with “I have filed a complaint with that me a little panic attack.” 51-year-old in Nice. You can change your existing cover – if it is not
compliant vehicles have had them over- authority, and given them the licence A spokesman for TfL said: “All data provided by your employer – when you have had it for at least a year.
turned. If this fails, they suggest the Road plates of people who received fines. used by EPC is accessed through the
User Charging Adjudicators tribunal.
You can join the legal action by emailing
“They’re investigating which third par-
ties requested access. I hope in the next
relevant legislative framework.
“The basis for TfL’s request (via EPC) to
Plan to produce medicine in France
amendeuk@woogassocies.com with proof 60 days we will understand where the a national or regional vehicle authority ANTIBIOTICS, anti-cancer drugs and those used in emergency care and
of ID, copies of fines, and any payment data leak came from.” for the registered keeper details would be the management of chronic conditions are to made in France again “in the
receipts or exchanges with EPC or TfL. He is hoping EU authorities will take that there has been a contravention of coming weeks”, President Macron has said. He wants to bring production
Belgian MP Michael Freilich has writ- over the case once the Belgian leak is the above UK regulations, which TfL is of 25 key medicines back to combat shortages and prevent future crises. In
ten to the European Commission about found. “We will unleash all the legal entit-led to enforce.” recent years, France has sourced many drugs abroad. However, as it report-
the issue. He contacted the Belgian army we have to forcibly challenge A fuller version of this article can be edly pays less than some other countries, such as Italy, foreign firms are
licensing authority for information. fines. I will coordinate with European found at our website. Please search ‘ULEZ’. said to prioritise those customers if production issues arise.

List of two thousand new areas where tax on second homes can be raised
A DRAFT of the decree listing tion of second homes. That will if they are retired, or sell it.”
thousands of towns that will be
able to levy a taxe d’habitation
soon rise to more than 3,600
communes, according to the
More and more second-home
owners are also selling via the Higher taxe, 90/180 days... we’re selling up
surcharge starting next year has leaked document. viager system as a solution, he SEVERAL readers have told us that they now when the Caribbean is hot and humid. Our
been leaked. The decree should be pub- added. This allows buyers to plan to sell their French second homes due to annual running cost is about €20,000, including
The newly eligible towns are lished in the coming weeks, and pay for part of the property the restrictions of the 90/180-days rule. management fees, taxe foncière and
mainly grouped along France’s could still change. Christophe upfront, then pay a monthly Most recently, we received emails from Norman d’habitation, insurance and utilities.
Atlantic and Mediterranean Demerson, president of home- sum until the death of the seller, Linton, 70, who lives in the Caribbean but spends “We have never rented it out.
coastlines, including Corsica. owners’ union UNPI, said: “Since who can continue using the his summers in his apartment in Cannes, and a “In the last few years the French government
There are also many along the the taxe d’habitation was abol- property in the meantime. British reader with a home near Villeréal, Lot-et- has decided that the taxe d’habitation will no
Channel and in the Alps. They ished for main homes, local While only 255 eligible com- Garonne, who asked not to be named. longer be paid by those who actually habitent
include Honfleur (Calvados) authorities have a funding gap, as munes chose to apply a sur- The latter said he has put the property on the [live] in France and use its medical services and
and Chamonix (Haute-Savoie) the state did not compensate to charge last year, Mr Demerson market after 12 years, as he wants a second home schools, etc. Instead, they will increase the rate
(for the full list visit tinyurl. the nearest euro, as promised.” expects many more to do so in that is available for the whole summer period on those who do not habite in France or use these
com/2ndhomecharge). Homeowners are already feel- 2024 as local authorities strug- and has no need to visit in winter. services. It is extremely unfair.
The taxe d’habitation now ing the effects of taxe foncière gle to cope with inflation. “The only restriction that would have worked “The 90/180-day rule is the final straw. It
applies only to second homes, rises, he said. Taxe foncière is He is not convinced the meas- for us is 180/360,” he said. means that if we spend 90 days in our French
and zones tendues (towns of due to rise by at least 7.1% ure will succeed in putting Mr Linton, who is self-employed but semi- apartment in the summer, we would be unable to
more than 50,000 where there is across France this year. “We are more properties back on the retired, also said that the 90-days limitation is spend any time in the rest of Europe.
a housing shortage) can vote to heading towards a major social rental market. “The owner of a the “final straw”, coming on top of higher taxes “For example, this April we spent a week in
raise the tax by up to 60%. evolution, where the French €1million villa is not going to and other inconveniences such as “new forms to Portugal followed by a 12-day cruise to Rome
In 2022, this included 1,136 middle classes will no longer be rent it out for €800 a month.” fill in” and “banks not wanting your business and then a week in Rome. This will now cut into
communes in 28 urban areas, able to afford [a second home].” The UNPI also expects taxe unless you are a French resident”. He said: “It is our allowed time in France.
but a recent law change widen- Nine out of 10 second homes d’habitation to rise elsewhere, no longer cost-effective to own the apartment “I can’t understand why the EU thinks it’s a good
ed the definition of a zone ten- are owned by French residents, as rates were frozen at 2019 and we will be selling it. idea to prevent people coming to Europe
due to include smaller towns but Mr Demerson believes levels while it was being abol- “We have owned our beautiful apartment for to spend money there.”
characterised by limited supply, many now face a difficult choice: ished for main homes, but this 20 years and would spend our summers there See page 7: ‘We must help ease 90/180 rule’
high rents, and a high propor- “Either live in the second home no longer applies.
 4 News connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Court rules EU rights Drug and drink-drivers could

were lost due to Brexit
THE EUROPEAN court of jus-
tice has ruled against Britons
retaining any EU citizenship
the general election that elected
the MPs who validated it.
“It’s definitive then, that Eur­
face longer in jail after review
CAUSING death while driving AN INNOVATIVE advertising Motoring news in brief
rights post-Brexit. ope is not fully democratic and under the influence of drink or campaign using smell has been
Responding to two cases EU citizenship can be removed drugs could soon be punishable launched by road safety group n CASES of uninsured drivers
challenging the effects of the without the right to vote and by tougher jail terms, depending Victimes & Citoyens to raise involved in road accidents
Withdrawal Agreement (WA), it without the right to take action on the results of a new study. awareness of the risks associated in France have risen by 44%
said that holding an EU member before the European judges.” After three high-profile cases, with driving under the influence in five years, a victims’ associa-
state nationality is an essential In protest, he said he will there have been calls to create a of drugs. tion has warned. The Fonds de
condition for acquiring and decline to vote in next year’s new crime of homicide routier. Called L’odeur de la mort (the garantie des victimes group
retaining EU citizenship. If European elections, which he At present, drivers causing said half of uninsured drivers

Photo: Fred & Farid

smell of death), the advert, printed
someone no longer holds this, considers “undemocratic” if death are tried for a délit (see in 100,000 copies of sports are aged less than 30, and more
they lose the status and its rights. Britons remain excluded. below) of homicide involontaire magazine So Foot, releases a than 40% of these do not even
This is, therefore, an “automat- Having run several legal battles (man­ slaughter) which usually cannabis scent when scratched. have a driving licence.
ic consequence” of the UK’s on Britons’ post-Brexit rights, has a maxi­mum sentence of five
“sovereign choice” to leave the he said his last hope is an years’ prison and a €75,000 fine. bis and drinking. The same the influence of drink/drugs, to n THE minimum age to get
EU, the court said. appeal to the European Court of This may rise to seven years month, a six-year-old girl on the be deemed a crime, where maxi- a driving licence in France
In one case, still brought in Human Rights for a Briton and €100,000 if there is an aggra- pavement was run over and mum sentences from 15 years to is to be lowered from 18 to 17
the name of British campaigner excluded from local election vating circumstance such as killed by a driver under the life can be imposed. from January 2024. Prime
Harry Shindler who died at 101 voting. See here for more about being drunk, or to 10 years and influence of cannabis. However, Dominique Courtois, Minister Elisabeth Borne made
in Italy this year, French lawyer his pro bono cases and ways to €150,000 for two or more such as In an earlier case, comedian president of Fédération Nationale the announcement in June,
Julien Fouchet argued about the offer support: eubritizens.eu. being uninsured or fleeing. Pierre Palmade crossed a white des Victimes de la Route, said: “It clarifying that the level of
impact of lost rights of Britons The rulings come as campaign An inter-ministerial group will line and crashed into another is no good just raising the maxi- requirements for the test will
living in the EU, such as local group British in Europe (BiE) study the issue this month. car, killing a pregnant mother mum sentence when judges do remain the same as before.
and EU voting or the right to released results of a voting hab- In May, three police officers and injuring members of her not apply the penalties that
stand as a councillor. Several its survey of 7,000 Britons were killed near Lille while tak- family. Palmade was under the already exist. Currently, with all n SOME 30% of moped users
other complainants in his case abroad, which showed residents ing a teenager to hospital. A car influence of cocaine. possible aggravating factors aged 16-30 admitted watching
were former councillors. in France as the largest group travelling on the wrong side of a Road safety groups have long taken into account, judges could a television series on their
In a second case, British aca- that has lost UK voting rights dual carriageway smashed into campaigned for offences that send someone to jail for 10 years phones while riding, in an Ipsos
demic Joshua Silver argued that under a former law that exclud- them. The driver, who also cause death through dangerous but it never happens. Most of the poll carried out in June.
EU citizenship is an ‘ac­ quired ed them after 15 years overseas. died, had been smoking canna- driving, or from driving under time, people walk free.”
right’ that cannot be removed. Britons are still waiting for
In both cases, the court denied
that the complainants had any
special individual justification
practical measures to be put in
place so they can register again.
Almost 60% of survey
Difference between a contravention, délit and crime
for complaints about the WA. respondents had lost their vote, THE classification in France of what in the surveillance if for less than a year. Maximum As highlighted above, there is debate about
Their cases were dismissed including 1,087 living in France. UK are lumped together as criminal offences prison terms range from two months to 10 creating an offence of homicide routier, for
and they were ordered to pay British adults abroad will falls into three categories: contraventions, years. Fines are a minimum of €3,750. causing death by driving after taking drink
both their own legal costs and soon be able to re-register if délits and crimes. We explain key differences. Courts hearing délits are called tribunal or drugs. Victims’ associations want it to be
those of the opposing party, the they have ever been registered correctionnel, and can be presided over by a a crime but some commentators think it will
Council of the European Union. before or lived in the UK. Contraventions. These cannot lead to pris- single judge, or a judge with two assessors. be hard to change as usually crimes require
Mr Fouchet called the rulings However, the survey revealed on and are divided into five classes with The accused usually has to appear and in proof of intent. An alternative would be to
especially unjust in view of the widespread concerns over how fines ranging from €38 (first class, the low- extreme cases can be sent to jail from court. retain the new offence in the délit category.
fact that many British residents people will prove previous resi- est) to €1,500, or €3,000 for a second offence. A separate judge supervises sentences. The classifications of crimes can have
in the EU were not able to vote dency. BiE is urging the UK to Most are dealt with by fixed penalties – symbolic significance in France. An exam-
in the Brexit referendum, nor be as flexible as it can on this. speeding fines, for example, but in the case Crimes. These most serious offences, nota- ple is proposals to move possession of can-
of disputes they are dealt with by lower bly murder and rape, are tried by a cour nabis – already usually dealt with by a fine
courts, called tribunal de police. There is a criminelle if the offence committed has a – from délit to contravention.
single judge and the state is represented by maximum jail term of between 15 and 20 This would put it in line with most other
someone from the departmental procureur years or by a cour d’assises for crimes with offences where officers can issue on-the-
de la République’s office. A greffier (clerk) sentences longer than 20 years. spot fines, such as traffic offences.
records proceedings and keeps paperwork. A cour criminelle, only introduced in However, the suggestion caused huge
Most cases are dealt with behind closed January, has one judge and four assessors. debate and has yet to be implemented.
doors without the accused necessarily being The cour d’assises is the only jury trial in President Macron recently said that the
present. Punishments include fines, confis- France and is made up of a presiding judge fines should be payable immediately by
cating driving licences, bans on keeping and six jurors. The presiding judge retires cash or card. It comes after it was found that
firearms and orders to repair damage or to with the jury and chairs their deliberations. most fines remain unpaid when offenders
attend training such as road safety classes. The cour d’assises is organised on depart- can pay later via internet.
mental lines, and hears most murder cases. A top court has also clarified that driving
Délits. These can lead to prison but in prac- Cours d’appel (appeal courts) are above after using CBD – a legal cannabis alterna-
tice they are usually suspended for first the others, and above them is the highest tive – is punishable as drug driving if traces
offences or turned into electronic bracelet court of appeal, the Cour de cassation. of the chemical THC are found in the blood.

Will renovation grants be extended to DIY projects?

DIY PROJECTS might become 2,600 France Services centres and leaving others frustrated by ities of people making claims,
eligible for renovation grants. (information points offering the lack of contact when prob- which has slowed the process
Anah, the agency behind the free administrative help) by lems arise. down,” Ms Mancret-Taylor said.
MaPrimeRénov’ scheme that early next year. You can find Ms Mancret-Taylor said fraud She made no mention of
offers financial aid to projects where these are here: tinyurl. – behind 10% of claims for the growing reluctance among
that improve the energy- com/Find-France-Services. renovation funding – posed an building professionals to
efficiency of homes, said the Anah has said it will provide additional challenge. become accredited to the
idea had been mooted. funding and train staff there In particular, an organised scheme, as reported in June’s
Its head, Valérie Mancret- on MaPrimeRénov’ rules and criminal network, uncovered Connexion.
Taylor, told Le Monde: “It is not procedures. last summer, stole the identities It has created a huge backlog as
yet on the formal agenda and no The grant scheme has domin- of property owners and trades- those seeking to apply for a
decision has been taken but it is ated headlines for all the wrong people to put in claims for work MaPrimeRénov’ grant scramble
something we have talked about. reasons in recent months. that was never carried out. to book a dwindling pool of
“The idea is pertinent and It has been dogged, partic- Other scams involve builders tradespeople in the short time-
interesting but we need a sys- ularly, by complaints from users using cheaper, lower quality windows allowed.
tem in place where there are that promised grants have not materials in their work than Anah says it is receiving 25,000
guarantees the work will be been paid. they specify in the quotes used requests for MaPrimeRénov’
high quality.” The government watchdog has to apply for grants, and pocket- grants a week. As of 2022,
At the same time, Anah is also criticised the scheme for ing the difference. 669,890 homes had benefited
working towards opening excluding people due to its “We have had to tighten our from it, with €3.1billion paid out.
MaPrimeRénov’ counters in all online-only application system, procedures to verify the ident- See more on this aid on page 10
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com News 5
Quality label for Historic bridge’s ugly repair must go
French tomatoes
Drivers sue Renault
TOMATOES are over faulty engines
Photo: Antoine Brun-Hairion Rougeline
the latest food
to benefit from DOZENS of drivers have filed a Olivier Blanchet, president of the
Label Rouge criminal lawsuit against Renault- Victimes du Motorgate association.
quality certific- Dacia, claiming their lives were put “The law does not require manu-

Photo: Mairie de Najac

ation, allowing in danger by faulty facturers to issue a recall
consumers to engines, in a long-run- when the fault does not
identify superior products. The 13th-century bridge ning dispute with the directly concern a safety
The label will apply to four varieties: was damaged last year manufacturer. mechanism, such as
cherry tomatoes, both loose and on the More than 1,000 brakes or airbags.”
vine; round tomatoes on the vine; and A BOTCHED restoration job on victims of so-called The claimants also

Photo: Olivier Blanchet

tomates allongées cœur. an 800-year-old bridge caused a Motorgate are expect- hope to receive damages.
To obtain the label, producers will have storm in a small town and has led ed to join the action. “Renault says 93% of

Photo: Facebook
to meet a strict list of specifications and be to departmental architects insist- They accuse Renault- complaints have been
subject to random weekly inspections. ing the work be redone. Dacia of dishonest busi- taken care of, but it is
Félix Pizon, director of the Association The pont Saint-Blaise across the ness practices, fraud and Olivier Blanchet rare that this is in full.
des Fruits et Légumes du Lot-et-Garonne river Aveyron at Najac was built endangerment, among other claims. Many receive 50% towards replacing
(AIFLG), charged with undertaking the between 1259 and 1274, and then had they used were simple limestone and The complaint relates to a fault in the engine, which costs €10,000
quality inspections, said: “For the cherry major renovation work in 1404. small, rather than the large, local sand- the Renault 1.2 TCe and Nissan 1.2 on average.”
tomato, for example, we look at how It was listed as a historic monument in stone blocks used by the old bridge- DIG-T petrol engines, also fitted to The issues have had consequences
crunchy, sweet and juicy it is.” 1987 and is still used every day as part of builders.” Dacia and Mercedes vehicles, which for drivers’ social and professional
Producers cannot use artificial light a departmental road. Architects from the department exam- were produced from 2012 to 2016. lives, Mr Blanchet added. “And
to boost growth, or produce tomatoes Last autumn, during military exercis- ined the work and the department Some claim engine failures left what about the fear caused by these
before spring. es, an armoured vehicle smashed into agreed that the company that carried out them fearing for their lives as their failures, or the anxiety linked to
“We know we cannot rival countries the side of the stone and brick bridge, the work, which has not been identified, speed fell from 130 to 50km/h within using a vehicle you no longer trust?
such as Spain and Morocco with the same destroying a portion of it. Work ordered should demolish what it had done and seconds as they drove on motorways. What about the value of the vehicles
product, as we do not have the same pro- by the department started quickly but rebuild to a better standard. The collective action was launched which have become unsellable?”
duction costs,” Mr Pizon said. “The solu- when the bridge was reopened, locals “It means the departmental road over in January 2022 on the platform A Renault spokesperson said the
tion is to move upmarket and offer a were shocked to see the damaged part the bridge will be shut again for two MyLéo, initially to access docu- issue affects less than 10% of clients,
tomato that has more taste.” had been covered in crude concrete ren- or three weeks, but it is worth it,” said ments the group claims will show adding: “Renault strongly contests
The Label Rouge tomatoes are produced dering, with hand-drawn lines in the Mr Blanc. manufacturers have known about the existence of any offence and
in Lot-et-Garonne, Pyrénées-Orientales, final rendering to suggest stonework. “We like to think we have a beautiful the issue since 2015. In March, a points out that its vehicles do not
and Provence. The label is recognised The mayor of Najac, Gilbert Blanc, town here, and want to make sure our court ordered Renault to hand over represent a danger for their users.”
only in France, but the AIFLG is also hop- told The Connexion: “The quality of the monuments are well looked-after.” the documents but the company Almost 2,000 people have joined
ing to obtain a European IGP (Indication work was very disappointing. He said he did not know how much the has appealed against the decision. either the first or second stage of
Géographique Protégée) label for the “Not only was the rendering left grey, department had paid for the work, but The main goal of the new com- legal action. Those affected have
Marmande tomato produced mainly in without any attempt to make it fit in said he was sure the army would be sent plaint is to “find a solution for until September 1 to join the law-
Lot-et-Garonne. with the rest of the bridge, but the stones a bill for the repair. vehicles still in circulation”, said suit by visiting myleo.legal.

Dordogne Warning over a change

town gets to marriage regimes
tough on for couples wed abroad
dog waste COUPLES in France who were
married abroad have been
The same applies to most US
marriages, but Californian ones
FINES of up to €750 for a repeat warned by notaires that their follow the same rules as France.
offence of leaving dog mess in ‘marriage regime’ might have One exception relates to mar-
public areas are to be put in changed automatically. riages that took place between
place in a south-west town as This can affect rules on inherit- September 1, 1992, and January
part of a push to beat a problem ance and property ownership, as 29, 2019. This is due to chang-
complained of by both locals well as what happens in a divorce. es in international treaties and
and visitors. Whether married in France or rules in force at the time.
The fines will be enforced abroad, all couples are subject In this case, if a couple moves
in Bergerac, Dordogne, from to specific rules regarding how to France, after 10 years their
September, after a year in which property – including homes, regime is deemed to default to
municipal police gave verbal money in bank accounts, and the standard French regime
warnings only. businesses – is owned within with regard to assets acquired
“At the same time, we have the marriage and what happens from that point, unless a specific
made a big effort to make things in the case of divorce or death. regime was declared at the time
easier for dog owners,” mayor It is, therefore, important, of marriage.
Jonathan Prioleaud said. if you live in France, to know This also happens, in the case
“They can get special dog col- what regime applies. of these marriages, immediately
lars with a pocket for plastic For marriages that take place on moving if both partners are

Here to listen
bags, there are bins, and we in France, the default regime French, or from the time of the
have made fenced off sandpits is communauté réduite aux nationality change if they both
in parks where people can take acquêts, in which property become French.
their dogs, find bag dispensers acquired after the marriage, Many couples do not know
and scoop up the mess easily.” excluding inherited property, what their regime is, which can
“Unfortunately there are still is jointly owned, whereas each lead to complications when
some individuals who continue spouse owns individually any buying a house or after a death,
We are Cancer Support France, supporting English-speaking
to leave their dog waste, so our property they owned prior to especially if some of their pos- people in France who are touched by cancer.
police will be tracking them the marriage. sessions are subject a different
and fining them.” Marriages that took place regime, due to an automatic We offer free, confidential support for English-speaking people throughout France
Mr Prioleaud said both tour- abroad are usually treated by change having occurred. touched in any way by cancer. Our highly trained volunteers offer emotional,
ists and residents had remarked France by the conventions in The best remedy is to anti­ language and practical help. CSF trained volunteers can guide you towards the
about the problem in their area, place in the country in question. cipate the change and speak information you need.
though he said it has now This means, for example, to a notaire. You can sign an
already fallen by 40%. that UK marriages fall under agreement to confirm which
The mairie has a special moto- the séparation de biens regime, regime is applicable and thus To find out more about our support, please contact us.
crotte motor-bike vacuum where each partner individually avoid the issue of mutabilité
cleaner which first freezes the owns property they paid for or automatique (automatic change).
Email: helpline@cancersupportfrance.org
waste and then sucks it up but it were given, unless a ‘pre-nup’ Civil partnerships are not Call: 0800 240 200 Web: www.cancersupportfrance.org
was not enough to cope. was made stating otherwise. affected by this issue.

CSF Press Advert Male 129x170.indd 1 06/05/2022 14:05

 6 Residency
News cards /
Visas / Admin connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Vulnerable Britons ‘at risk and lack help in EU’

“
CONCERNS over the situation of more.” He said he supports a fast-track source of help for those still struggling. She added: “We seek to prioritise helping
vulnerable Britons living in the EU – process extending the application win- The vice-president of the association Britons we assess as vulnerable and
including several in France who forgot dow for another year or two so such European Britons, Sara Page, recently needing our help most, generally when
to apply for Withdrawal Agreement people can regularise their residency. wrote for website EU Reporter (tinyurl. they cannot protect themselves from
(WA)cards – have been raised by cam- Other groups that have to apply to Ms Golding told us UK com/vulnerable-Brits), accusing the significant physical or emotional harm,
paign groups and lawmakers. prefectures are close family members and EU state support was UK of being uninterested in aiding or be protected by others. We also
Post-Brexit, Britons must have a of existing WA Britons who want to passport-holders living abroad. consider certain people as vulnerable,
formal residency status and cannot live with them, as well as young Britons being reduced drastically Ms Page, from Brittany, said her mairie regardless of circumstances – for exam-
rely on free movement. approaching 18 who need their own Lord Wood, had contacted her local Ang­lican church ple, victims of rape and sexual assault,
Among those who have been strug- residency cards, and holders of five- about a British brother and sister with forced marriage cases, and situations
gling are a minority of long-term resi- year WA cards (issued to people who
European affairs committee dementia it was assisting with food and involving children and young people.”
dents who did not apply for WA cards could not originally prove five years’ Lords were “very concerned to hear that visits. The church found they had no rel- The site gov.uk/guidance/living-in-
before 2021. They must apply via pre- pre-Brexit residency) seeking upgrades resources to support UK citizens in the atives and their passports were missing. france indicates sources of help, the
fectures explaining why they are late to ‘permanent stay’ cards. EU on citizens’ rights issues have been She wrote: “The British Embassy said spokeswoman added (see also tinyurl.
but it can be hard to contact prefec- Immigration consultant Ilya Zlokazov, scaled back substantially since 2021”. they were not responsible for assisting com/supportbna). It is possible to call
tures or get face-to-face appointments. of Zlozazov & Company, in Alpes- Ms Golding had reported to the com- UK citizens who have mental health consular services 24/7 on 01 44 51 31 00.
MP for Manche Bertrand Sorre said Maritimes, said he has helped several mittee that a “rise in serious and com- issues and we would have to apply for Embassy teams also work closely with
he had been approached by 10 Britons WA Britons’ family members but notes plex cases” coincided with drastically new passports through the usual chan- local partners – both French bodies
who missed the deadline after “forget- that there is a lack of information reduced state support from both the nels. End of help and advice.” and British associations and charities –
ting” or due to ignorance of the rules. about the process online and difficulty UK government and EU member states. Ultimately, the French state had to assist vulnerable residents, with
He has helped more than half obtain in organising face to face meetings She had also suggested that it was a stepped in, she said. Ms Page also “healthcare, welfare, mental health,
cards. “One had been here 20 years but with officials. “We made prefecture “lottery as to whether Britons can get noted that Britons abroad have no ded- safeguarding or social care”. This can
hadn’t done it and found herself in appointments by clicking on a category any real help from their local embassy” icated MPs, unlike the French, whose include speaking to the prefecture if
France illegally. Another had been born for family members of French people due to the dedicated funds for citizens’ government, she said, is concerned for WA issues are part of the problem.
on Jersey and lives with a French citizen. or Europeans,” he said. rights officers in individual states hav- its citizens’ welfare wherever they are. The Embassy continues to raise any
“I work with the prefecture and man- The chairman of the House of Lords ing been cut in March, leaving embas- Asked to comment, a British Embassy WA implementation issues with the
age, case by case, to obtain cards. The European Affairs Committee, Lord sies more reliant on NGOs for evidence spokeswoman said embassies and con- Interior Ministry and the UK Foreign
prefect can allow it, depending on the Wood, wrote to the Home Secretary, of the situation on the ground. sulates can help Britons abroad in a Office’s citizens’ rights team.
situation. Otherwise, people might warning that the rights of UK citizens Lord Wilson also regretted the clo- range of situations, such as if they lose “The Ambassador and the Embassy
have to go back to the UK and start in the EU remain “a live issue”. sure of the UK Nationals Support their passport, are victims of crime, or en­gage continually with a wide range
again by applying for a visa, and for Referring to oral evidence from law- Fund, which funded voluntary bodies are hospitalised. However, they also of stakeholders across the whole of
some it’s impossible. Some Britons yer Jane Golding, co-chair of campaign to help Britons with WA residency, expect British nationals to “take respon- France, including via regular visits out-
here have no family in the UK any group British in Europe, he said the meaning there is now no specific sibility for themselves and their safety”. side Paris,” the spokeswoman said.

We cancelled trips due to visa delays News in brief

Access restricted
for La Poste service
No plan to merge
health and residency
A FRANCO-BRITISH retired lists this email address for
couple have described their frus- visa issues: visas.londres-fslt@ LA POSTE is excluding all THERE are no plans to ‘merge’
tration at being unable to obtain diplomacie.gouv.fr, but the foreign residents whose resi- titres de séjour with the carte
a visa appointment in the UK to Bishops said they tried it and dency cards have an expiry Vitale health card, Inte­ rior
enable their non-EU, non-Brit- were told to go via TLS. date less than five years away Ministry sources said.
ish carer to come with them to The consulate’s website says from its revamped ‘more A study into mer­ ging the
their French second home. queries about applications secure’ L’Iden­ tité Numérique health card with French ID
Former accountant Peter should be addressed to TLS at online identification scheme. cards is being carried out in an
Its website states that you
Photo: Peter and Catherine Bishop

Bishop, from Bucking­ham­shire, +44 2030 400 460, Monday to attempt to stop people using
said they cannot travel without Friday 8:30 to 16:30, UK time. must have a French identity someone else’s health card.
his wife Cathe­rine’s carer, who is The Connexion has been unable document, whether passport,
from Zaire. to get through on this number ID card, or a French titre de Capital gains worry
They have been trying to help recently but we have found the séjour, with remaining validity READERS have told us of
her but she has been unable to following to work, followed by of at least five years. their worry over a very high
obtain a slot to take paperwork pressing 4: +44 203 832 3011. It says the only exception is capital gains tax (CGT) bill for
to TLS-Con­tact’s London office The TLS website (visa-fr.tls- cards with a permanent valid- the sale of a second home.
Catherine and Peter Bishop cannot get to their French home ity and no mention of an
despite daily attempts since the contact.com/visa/gb) says it is They said this is because
end of last year. now my wife needs a carer after. I love the culture and it’s so possible to request Saturday or expiry date. We have not, they lack bank statements
As TLS, a contractor to the because of her medical cond- relaxing. It’s right on the coast.” early morning slots for an however, been able to identify from 15 years ago proving
French consulate in the UK, also itions. We’ve booked another Mrs Bishop said: “We’re going additional €50 per person. It any cards issued in France payments for purchase of
insists applicants must show crossing in August now, but it’s round in circles – you can’t apply is also possible to pay for a home that have no expiry date. land, their new-build house
travel tickets, they have already not looking very promising. without travel tickets, then you visit for €700 + €150 per addi- The measure even excludes and their swimming pool.
had to cancel one ferry crossing “My wife is actually French can’t travel because there are no tional applicant. EU citizens, as they do not They said this is despite the
in March. They had paid extra and we’ve been coming around appointments being freed up. The site, however, continues need residency cards, and if fact they will have an overall
for ‘flexi’ tickets, but have been three times a year every year. “My carer did get through to to lock people out from some they request one (optionally), capital loss.
frustrated by the experience. “It’s not doing her health any someone at TLS one time, but it sections if they are deemed it will have an expiry date. The basic taxable capital
Mr Bishop said: “We’ve had a good. We need the break and the was like speaking to a brick wall.” to have connected to the site too However, foreign people gain is the difference between
French home for 20 years but house and garden need looking The French consulate’s website regularly. would be eligible if they the original purchase price
have a card issued for 10 years, recorded in the deeds by the

Free healthcare scheme reinstated for S1 retirees

such as a ‘permanent stay’ notaire and the sale price, and
Withdrawal Agreement card, bank statements should not be
issued less than five years ago. necessary for these.
FRANCE’S free healthcare top-up scheme part of healthcare procedures or supplies Valérie Renault, of France Services for the We have pointed this out to If anything else, including a
for low-earners is once again available to that is not fully paid for by basic state Bocage Bourbonnais, said they had worked La Poste and queried the logic. house being built on land you
UK and EU pensioners with S1 forms. healthcare rights. to gain the CSS back for her. If you need an alternative, bought, is to be considered to
In a reversal of a 2022 change, which Last year, the French authorities started to She understood the reversal to be based perhaps to sign in on certain reduce the taxable gain, fiscal
saw people whose healthcare is paid for by apply a certain interpretation of the social on a European Court of Justice ruling. We sites via France Connect (for representatives might ask to
other countries excluded without notice, security code strictly to stop payment to have not so far identified the exact case. which L’Identité Numérique is see statements, though some
S1-holders can now have complémentaire those for whom another country reimburs- Antoine Math of Gisti, a group supporting one partner) alternatives are reportedly more flexible
santé solidaire (CSS) as before. es France for their healthcare. This includes immigrants to France, said: “Following var- include ameli.fr or impots. than others on evidence.
This was confirmed by reader Christine EU states for their state pensioners, and ious interventions, the social security direct- gouv.fr log-ins, or using the One possible ‘solution’ might
StClaire-Erskine, from Auvergne-Rhône- also the UK, due to the Brexit deals. orate recently informed us that it has finally Yris application. be providing a large guarantee
Alpes, who previously told us she was Mrs StClair-Erskine said: “My CSS has decided to go back on its decision. However, note that we were sum to be held back for three
“panicking” and “hoping not to break a leg” been reinstated. Apparently, the decision to “It’s a good thing. We’ve had verbal confirm- previously told you cannot use years in case of tax office que-
after her CSS was cut off and she was cut off what they are calling ‘permanent ation only. There were probably internal FranceConnect if you have no ries. See previous articles at
unable to afford a replacement policy. migrants’ was reversed by a European instructions, first to block CSS and then French social security number tinyurl.com/fiscal-rep-shop and
CSS provides top-up cover free, or at a court. You can have it reinstated on applic- unblock it, but these are always kept secret.” (tinyurl.com/f-c-issues) so the tinyurl.com/sarf-interview.
reduced fee, to residents on low or modest ation and I have been given the free one. Last year, Mr Math, whom we informed of service is not suited, for exam-
incomes below certain ceilings. As with “However, our Cpam hasn’t told any of us the change, suggested avenues for readers ple, to non-residents or some See also page 33: ‘Why was
ordinary mutuelle top-ups, it covers the rejects that we are now back in the fold.” wishing to lodge complaints. frontier workers. I refused 15% expenses claim?’
 Residency cards
News / 7
The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Visas / Admin
Concerns over process
for first carte de séjour
We must help ease 90/180 rule
ANOTHER senator has joined calls for so I fear widening culties in simply obtaining an appointment
SEVERAL readers have raised for processing applications and more flexibility for foreign second-home might be counter- slot (see page 6).
concerns about the process of cards, have digital help desks. owners to visit France – but she believes the productive.” If wider-ranging solutions prove unattain-
obtaining a French residency For contact details, see inter- idea has more chance of success if restricted She said she will able, a simplified renewal would help.
card to prolong a long-stay visa. ieur.gouv.fr/Le-ministere/ to Britons. consult with the Mrs Berthet said “we must do something to
One said he applied online Prefectures. Click the area and This is because many bought properties bill’s rapporteur simplify things” and “we must do something
three months ago but since the Marianne logo, then see before 2016, believing they could visit for up (initiator) and to make their [British second-home owners’]
then has had no further con- Horaires et coordonnées or to six months at a time without a visa, but colleagues in the residency conditions more flexible”.
tact and is still waiting for an Prendre un rendez-vous. Brexit changed this. Other non-EU nationals Senate’s laws and She said she often sees British cars and

Photo: Martine Berthet

appointment to present his You are asked to attach sup- knew the visiting restrictions at the time of foreign affairs knows there are many second-home owners
documentation. He is worried porting documents in digital purchase. commissions in her area (Savoie). The winter season runs
as his visa is about to expire. format so you should not have Martine Berthet (right-wing Les Républi­c- about the most from mid-December to April in many
Here, we recap how the pro- to take them in. ains) told The Connexion she is sympathetic viable approach. resorts favoured by Britons, such as Méribel,
cess should work and possible After applying, you will receive to complaints about loss of flexibility now The Immi­gra­ Les Arcs, Courchevel or Val d’Isère. The
Senator Martine Berthet
avenues in the event of issues. an attestation de dépôt. In a owners are subject to the ordinary EU rule of tion Law was due resorts also often welcome summer visitors
Many readers come on a visa further stage, if the dossier is visiting for no more than 90 days in any 180- to be debated this spring but was delayed. It from mid-June to mid-September, she said
de long séjour valant titre de deemed ‘complete’, you should, day period. is now likely to be deferred again to the – “so, a good seven months of the year”.
séjour (VLS-TS), which has to if you applied in time, receive She is in favour of using an amendment to autumn due to the volume of bills to be Ms Berthet agreed it can only be positive
be ‘validated’ in the first three an attestation de prolongation the forthcoming French Immigration Law, debated, Ms Berthet said. for France if second-home owners spend
months at tinyurl.com/visas- de l’instruction de la demande as proposed by Charente-Maritime senator It already includes a proposal for new resi- more time in the country – they pay their
cartes: je valide mon VLS-TS. de carte de séjour, giving an Corinne Imbert, after we shared ideas from dency cards for under-pressure work sectors. property taxes and support local firms but
In most cases an application extra three months’ residency. the France Visa Free campaign group with France can do this as it governs its own do not rely on French healthcare or benefits.
for a card is at the same This also applies to an attest- her. Ms Imbert has backed the solution of a immigration rules. She said it would be useful if readers pro-
address: je demande ou renou- ation de décision favorable, special five-year visa for all nationality Apart from a five-year visa, the France Visa vide feedback, such as how much money they
velle un titre de séjour. In the which confirms a card will be second-home owners, allowing visits of up Free group has also argued for a ‘visa waiver’ estimate they spend in France per month
case of a ‘visitor’ visa – often issued. to six months per calendar year. for all Britons for six months, equivalent to when here, how much longer they would
used by retirees – apply two to These, and any requests for However, Ms Berthet thinks focusing on the rights EU citizens have now when visit- spend a year if the 90-day issue was eased,
four months before it expires. extra documents, will be sent ‘Brexit consequences’ and Britons might be ing the UK. Senator Berthet raised this dis- and how they contribute to the life of the
You will need your numéro via your personal space on the more effective. parity in a letter to the French government French communes where their homes are.
d’étran­ger, also called numéro site, so do check this regularly. “A lot of Britons are penalised by the last year but said she doubted that such a We have created a Google form to help
AGDREF (application de gestion The site has a contact section, 90/180-day rule, even though they did not waiver, just for France, would happen. people provide such feedback, either
des dossiers des ressortissants located by scrolling down, and vote for Brexit,” Ms Berthet said. Many Britons report that having to apply with their names or anonymously, which
étrangers en France). a helpline on 0806 001 620. “So, I believe we could correct some of the for a temporary long-stay visa for every visit will be passed on to the senator:
This can be found at the top Avenues for urgent help effects and that it may be more understood if longer than 90 days is an expensive and https://forms.gle/yQsXXnvGDBkhqEam8.
of the attestation de visa de long include your consulate, immi- we have an amendment for them, rather complex process, involving an appointment Anyone wanting to write to French MPs or
séjour, which you should grants’ association gisti.org, an than widening the scope too much. with French consulate contractors TLS- senators can find their contact details, includ-
receive after validation. immigration lawyer, or the “At the moment, the tendency is for parties Contact and taking paperwork to one of its ing emails, at senat.fr/vos-senateurs.html and
Some prefectures, responsible Défenseure des droits. to be talking about restric­ting immigration, three UK offices. Many have spoken of diffi- assemblee-nationale.fr/dyn/vos-deputes.

Inheritance tax and

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using Assurance Vie
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 8 News connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Conservationists clash with Website helps you donate Religious bank

an old car to a good cause holidays called
hunters over new ‘pests’ list A NEW online platform is
hoping to make it easier for
into question
CONSERVATIONISTS are Damage caused by foxes is an endangered species. The people to donate cars they no A CITY MAYOR has ignited
calling on people to oppose a at the centre of debates protection of the fox is more a longer have a use for to people debate by suggesting references
new list of animals that have question of principle for both in need. to religious holidays be replaced
been labelled pests and can conservationists and hunters. There are dozens of garages by secular bank holidays.

Photo: Shutterstock_ slowmotiongli

therefore be more widely killed. “On the other hand, there is solidaires throughout France – ing to target professionals, such Eric Piolle, mayor of Grenoble
Every three years, department- no reason to put it on the ESOD low-cost garages aimed at those as dealers and companies that (EELV Green party), spoke out
al committees, made up of list as the damage it causes is who need a vehicle but struggle maintain a fleet of vehicles. after it emerged that the Interior
hunters, farmers, naturalists minimal. The harm to poultry with the cost – where it is possi- “In general, these cars will be Ministry had asked schools in the
and scientists, agree on a new can easily be avoided by closing ble to donate your old car so in better condition, meaning south west to count the number
list of ‘species likely to cause off chicken coops,” he said. they can sell it or rent it out. they cost less to repair.” of absent pupils during the Eid
damage’ (ESOD). The Ministry Using the example of the Now, automobile club Roole The cars are either rented out al-Fitr Muslim celebration.
of Ecological Transition then called for “an end to this eco- Doubs department, he said the has teamed up with Solidarauto, for around €5 to €10 per day, or “Unacceptable,” he wrote on
decides which species to include logical aberration, and to favour year-round killing of foxes has a network of garages solidaires, sold, generally for between Twitter. “Religious celebrations
in each department. non-lethal solutions to limit had little impact. to create donnezvotrevoiture. €1,500 and €3,000. Garages are a valid reason for missing
ESODs can be killed by shoot- hypothetical damages”. “Around 4,000 per year would org, which will put you in touch solidaires can also help buyers school in accordance with the
ing or trapping outside of the A recent survey by market be killed anyway. Being on the with your nearest participating to obtain financial aid, and calendar published each year by
usual hunting season. research firm Ifop on behalf of ESOD list has added 1,000 to garage. when it comes to repairs, labour the Education Ministry.”
The ministry recently six environmental associations 1,500, little compared to the Anastasia Debret, project rates are capped at between €30 Six of France’s 11 national
launched a public consultation found 65% of people do not overall population.” manager at Roole, said: “Not and €40 per hour. holidays mark days on the
into the latest list, which is open approve of this listing of species. In an attempt to encourage a many people know you can Beneficiaries must usually Christian calendar.
until July 6 (leave a comment at Patrick Giraudoux, ecology more evidence-based approach, donate your car. We want to earn below a certain income – Mr Piolle has suggested “giv-
tinyurl.com/ESODlist). professor at the University of Prof Giraudoux is part of a make it easier by providing using the Quotient Familial cal- ing a choice of bank holidays
Overall, the list includes five Franche-Comté, said: “The research project monitoring the the link between the donor culated by the CAF – or be sent according to each person’s relig-
bird species (rook, carrion decision to put a species on the effects of protecting fox popula- and the garage.” by Pôle emploi. “There are lots ious convictions, and creating
crow, jay, starling, magpie) and ESOD list is never followed by tions versus hunting and trap- They have received 290 offers of areas in France where trans- new bank holidays in reference
four mammals (weasel, stone an evaluation of the effects, so ping them in the Doubs depart- of donations since launching in port is a real issue in terms to our shared history”.
marten, pine marten, fox). every three years we have the ment, between 2020 and 2030 November. There are currently of finding and keeping a job,” He cited the anniversary of
The transmission of diseases same debates without knowing (see tinyurl.com/Carelistudy). 11 certified garages – vetted Ms Debret said. the abolition of slavery, which
is taken into account, as is dam- whether it is useful.” While certain species can to make sure they undertake People who do not qualify can is already a bank holiday in
age to forests, water bodies, Nothing symbolises these cause problems in particular reliable repairs and are associa- still have their car repaired France’s overseas departments.
agricultural production or debates better than the fox. areas, he said debates around tions, meaning donors can there but will pay full price. Right-wing senator Stéphane
other property, along with the “While foxes are accused of the lists can be over-simplistic. benefit from a tax reduction – Donors will be asked to enter Le Rudulier (Les Républicains)
protection of flora and fauna. attacking poultry and spreading “A species in and of itself is with the aim to have at least 20 their name, address and car reg- responded by proposing a bill
However, the bird protection disease, they also prey on grass- not ‘harmful’ or ‘useful’. Every by the end of the year. istration online, and a nearby that would inscribe France’s
organisation Ligue pour la land voles, which are consid- species has a role in the eco- Most donations are from indi- garage will decide whether it is “Judeo-Christian origins” into
Protection des Oiseaux has ered a pest to farmers. It’s not system or it wouldn’t be there.” viduals, but Roole is also look- worthwhile taking the car. Article 1 of the Constitution.

2022 death rate higher Hotel guests banged up for the night Alcohol: One in
five admit they
than during pandemic drink too much
THE EXCESS mortality rate throughout the EU last year,
was higher in 2022 than at the but more recent data from MORE than one in five adults
height of the Covid pandemic, Eurostat shows a steep fall in in France drink more than the
new data from national statis- 2023 – 0.3% in March, com- recommended maximum
tics body Insee shows. pared to 6.7% in March 2022, amounts of alcohol, a study has
The excess mortality rate is for example. found, although the proportion
the number of deaths that occur The number of Covid cases in is falling.
above the expected number France, meanwhile, has contin- Between 2020 and 2021 (latest
over a given period. ued to fall in recent months. figures), the percentage of adults
Photo: A+ Architecture

There were 675,000 deaths in The average daily number of who said they consumed more
France last year, 53,800 more new confirmed cases was 1,882 than the low-risk drinking
than expected in a regular, as of June 11, down almost 19% guidelines fell from 23.7% to
pre-Covid year. The excess compared to the previous week. 22%, according to a report from
mortality rate was 42,700 in There were 114 new hospital- health authority Santé Publique
2021, and 48,400 in 2020. isations each day. ARCHITECTS had to saw Top: An France.
This is despite the fact that Experts warn that the number through one-metre stone walls architect’s Guidelines state you should
fewer people died with Covid in of cases is most likely under- to make windows in a town plans for “not consume more than 10
2022 (38,300) than in 2021 estimated as the rates of testing centre former prison, now con- the main standard glasses per week and
Photo: Hotel La Prison

(59,100), meaning the rise is have fallen dramatically. verted into a hotel. hallway. no more than two standard
due to deaths from other causes. France stopped fully reim- Cells in the prison in Béziers, Right: A glasses per day, and have days
Insee said in its report: “First bursing tests in March, except built in 1850 and shut in 2006, finished in the week without drinking”.
of all, the year 2022, unusually, for vulnerable groups, such as were limited to a small window, bedroom This decrease mainly con-
saw two flu episodes: a first, late over-65s, minors, and those with iron bars across, meaning cerned men, the youngest and
epidemic in March-April, and a with chronic illnesses. prisoners did not get to benefit that things are much more wire to remove first.” Safety oldest age groups, and people
second, early one in December, Global attention has recently from a view over the town to luxurious now.” requirements meant that new on higher incomes.
whereas flu was almost non- turned to the Omicron sub- the river Orb. She told The Connexion the staircases had to be installed as The report says: “The propor-
existent in 2021. variant known as Arcturus, The prisoners also did not job was complicated for the fire escapes, as well as a smoke tion also appears to be signifi-
“Furthermore, heatwaves which is behind a rise in cases have to pay cash for their beds architects by the fact that the evacuation system. cantly higher than average
brought about more deaths in in India since the start of the in 13m2 cells, but their succes- prison was built next to The complex now also has a in the regions of Brittany, Pays
2022 (2,800 all causes included) year, with a small number of sors in Hotel La Prison will pay the city’s cathedral, which is a swimming pool. de la Loire and Auvergne-
than in 2021 (200). High temp- cases detected in France. It is between €70 and €215 a night, listed building. Around 20 people will work Rhône-Alpes, while it is lower
eratures throughout much of believed to be more contagious with the higher prices for larger “From the outside, we had to in the new hotel, which cost in Île-de-France, Bourgogne-
the summer also led to deaths than previous variants but does rooms made by knocking down keep the look of the prison, around €8million, including a Franche-Comté and in all
outside of heatwaves.” not appear to be more severe. walls between cells. while at the same time chang- grant from Tourisme Occitanie. overseas regions.”
Another factor cited behind The last Covid vaccine boost- The hotel welcomed its first ing it into a warm, happy hotel,” In 2019, 9.9% of people in
excess deaths over the last two er campaign for vulnerable guests in June. she said. n A former prison in Grasse France reported drinking every
years is indirect effects of the groups, including people aged Vanessa Bonet, of A+ Archi- “The only new buildings we (Alpes-Maritimes), built in day, compared to 8.4% across
pandemic, such as operations 80 and above, those who are tecture, which was in charge of added were a restaurant and 1845, is set to be transformed the EU, according to Eurostat.
that were delayed, and a immunosuppressed, or people the conversion, said: “We have seminar rooms, which are built into student accommodation Alcohol is responsible for
decrease in screening for other in care homes, ended on June kept some of the original prison in the space that was once the by the end of next year. Two around 41,000 deaths a year in
illnesses in 2020. Excess mort- 16. A new campaign will be layout, and things like the iron recreation area for the prisoners. cells will be combined to create France, the second most com-
ality rates remained high organised from the autumn. walkways, but it is fair to say “There was a lot of barbed studios of 14-23m2. mon cause of avoidable deaths.
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com News 9
1,000km in the footsteps of first giraffe in France Millions sign up for
shop ‘deals’ brochure
AN ENGLISH puppeteer has in April. “The first day was the
walked 1,000km from Marseille worst. My back was hurting, and
to Paris wearing a giant giraffe I was worried about the puppet
puppet, replicating the journey falling apart. I took unplanned
made by the first giraffe in France rest days to wait out the wind.” A NEW printed letterbox results. The take-up rate is
200 years ago. That meant having to pick up brochure that promises to save “between 20% and 30% in eight
Seb Mayer had heard the story the pace so his 90-day Schengen people money with shopping areas, and under 10% in five”. A
of Zarafa, a giraffe gifted to area allowance would not run offers claims to have 2.7 million final report will be submitted to
France’s King Charles X by out. At the start, he was walking subscribers on a free sign-up. parliament in November 2024.
Muhammad Ali of Egypt in 1827, 20km a day, but he raised this to The brochure was launched in Several supermarkets have
but it was during the pandemic 30km through Burgundy. April across France as more and already announced they will
that the idea came to him. He arrived in the capital on June more supermarkets phase out stop sending out unsolicited
When work dried up, he got 24, after a journey that included paper catalogues. catalogues. Franprix and
into hiking, and began searching sleeping in a cave with bats in The free, weekly 150 € bro- Monoprix both stopped posting
for a way to combine it with his Arcy-sur-Cure. He mostly camped chure – it boasts that its offers leaflets through residential
day job. “It was clear to me that it but occasionally people invited can save you €150 a month – letterboxes in 2019. Cora joined
would make sense to structure a him to their homes to stay. comes with leaflets from super- them earlier this year.
giraffe puppet around walking Many heads were turned, markets containing offers. Carrefour has promised to
poles,” he said. particularly in busy city centres Many older people in rural reduce the number of paper
“I wanted to know if it was pos- such as Lyon. “I love galloping areas use paper prospectuses but catalogues by 80% in 2024.
sible and had to find out. I speak through so people get this they have come in for criticism. E.Leclerc will stop distribut-
French reasonably well and want- ephemeral apparition of a giraffe In 2021, 766,000 tonnes of ing paper catalogues from
ed to discover the country.” they can’t explain,” he said. printed adverts were distribut- September, although as with the
Mr Mayer, from north London, Across much of Burgundy, he ed in France without an address, other chains, a digital version
stopped at various points to hold mainly came across farm animals. according to the environmental will still be available. The firm
six community workshops where “Cows would run away and gath- agency Ademe. cited environmental concerns
children and elderly people er their herd, then come up to the Millions of people have opted and the high price of paper.
would replace the cardboard skin fence and moo at me. out of receiving these offers by The popularity of leaflets can
with one they decorated. “I like to think that connects me sticking a Stop Pub (Stop advert- partly be explained by a 1968
In Marseille, they worked with a to the original giraffe. I love seeing ising) logo to their letterbox law that banned supermarkets
local artist and painted her in a agricultural beasts and wild ani- (see stoppub.fr). from advertising on television

Photo: Seb Mayer / Inset: PWB Images_Alamy

giraffe pattern using local soil, and mals and thinking they’re getting Last year, 14 areas began to to protect local newspapers
in Lyon she was decorated with a similar experience to their fore- trial an opt-in system where and small shops. This ban
people’s hopes for the future. bears 200 years ago.” those who wish to receive was scrapped in 2004 following
He did, however, underestimate The real Zarafa lived in the adverts must use a Oui Pub (Yes EU pressure.
the amount of work these events Jardin des Plantes in Paris for to advertising) sticker. You can sign up to receive 150 €
would require, which put him 18 years. The name Zarafa, mean- “A majority of households by post or by email at 150euros.fr.
behind schedule, as did the ing ‘charming’ in Arabic, is a pho- choose not to receive printed It is produced by Milee, a
weather – particularly the south- netic variant of the Arabic word Mr Mayer’s puppet weighs 9kg. Insert
Insert:: An artistic advertising,” Ademe announced specialist in publishing and dis-
ern mistral wind when he set off for giraffe: zerafa. depiction of Zarafa, the first giraffe to arrive in France when publishing the first set of tributing printed advertising.

Mid-sized airports ‘too

reliant on cheap flights’ Think you will pay too
MID-SIZED French airports are often very and-a-half hours. In practice, however, only three

much tax in France?

dependent on a few low-cost airlines and are routes have been banned: Orly-Bordeaux, Orly-
suffering from competition from nearby sites, the Lyon, and Orly-Nantes.
national auditing authority has warned. The Cour des Comptes warns that new rail con-
France notoriously has a greater number of air- nections would further take business away from
ports than its neighbours. In 2019, there were 73, of airports. It is estimated that the future line between

You may be surprised.

which 41 received between 10,000 and three mil- Toulouse and Dax, for example, will attract 10
lion commercial passengers. This compares to 13 million more train passengers by 2032, of whom
airports in Germany, 28 in the UK and 30 in Spain. 16% will have switched over from air travel.
These ‘intermediate airports’ are smaller than The intermediary airports are mostly run by
international airports but larger than local air- regional, departmental or city authorities, and
fields, and include those in Strasbourg, Bergerac, rely on public grants. They “face the significant
La Rochelle and Montpellier. fixed costs (safety, security) associated with com-
The south and west of France are particularly mercial air travel, without receiving a sufficient
well-served. Many of these airports mainly serve number of passengers to benefit, like the largest
tourists, while others provide a link to isolated airports, from substantial non-aeronautical
areas, or focus on freight, for example. revenue” (such as retail), according to the report. The French tax regime provides Talk to the people who know
The Cour des Comptes report says: “Weakened “Decentralisation has created a situation where opportunities for tax efficient
by the development of high-speed railways and none of the public actors has an overall vision or investing, and how you hold your
0 805 112 163 (N0 Vert)
the progressive withdrawal of Air France, they are responsibility for the network of airports.” france@blevinsfranks.com
often very dependent on a few low-cost airlines. The Cour des Comptes made a number of
assets can make a significant
Sometimes, they also face direct competition recommendations, including the creation of difference to how much tax you pay.
from nearby airports.” an ‘airport observatory’ to adopt a more global Blevins Franks specialises in reducing
www.blevinsfranks.com
The Covid pandemic worsened the crisis, with perspective, along with a plan to cut carbon at
Air France reducing its number of domestic each airport. tax on invested capital, pensions,
flights by 40% in 2021. The rise in working from Mr Paulissen told The Connexion: “It is true that wealth and inheritance, and has saved
home has also led to fewer business trips. airports of less than 700,000 passengers have our clients a substantial amount of
Airports dependent on low-cost airlines risk greater difficulties balancing the books.” He said tax over the years. Contact us to find
losing the majority of their traffic if those airlines Covid had exacerbated difficulties that already out how we can help you.
stop running flights, often at short notice. Dinard existed for many of them.
in Brittany, for example, stopped running com- “However, we can consider them to be tools for
mercial flights in 2021 after Ryanair pulled out. the socio-economic development of the region,
INTERNATIONAL TAX ADVICE • INVESTMENTS • ESTATE PLANNING • PENSIONS
Brexit, too, has had an impact in the west and and that the public money goes towards this
south west, at airports such as La Rochelle, regional development.” Blevins Franks Group is represented in France by the following companies: Blevins Franks Wealth Management Limited (BFWML) and Blevins Franks France SASU
Carcassonne and Limoges, which “are between For this reason, he does not expect any airports (BFF). BFWML is authorised and regulated by the Malta Financial Services Authority, registered number C 92917. Authorised to conduct investment services under
the Investment Services Act and authorised to carry out insurance intermediary activities under the Insurance Distribution Act. Where advice is provided outside of
50% and 90% dependent on British clients”, said to close completely, but holidaymakers could still Malta via the Insurance Distribution Directive or the Markets in Financial Instruments Directive II, the applicable regulatory system differs in some respects from that of
Malta. BFWML also provides taxation advice; its tax advisers are fully qualified tax specialists. Blevins Franks France SASU (BFF), is registered with ORIAS, registered
Nicolas Paulissen, executive director of the Union lose out. “We do need to reflect on their role. Not number 07 027 475, and authorised as ‘Conseil en Investissements Financiers’ and ‘Courtiers d’Assurance’ Category B (register can be consulted on www.orias.fr).
Member of ANACOFI-CIF. BFF’s registered office: 1 rue Pablo Neruda, 33140 Villenave d’Ornon – RCS BX 498 800 465 APE 6622Z. Garantie Financière et Assurance de
des Aéroports Français (UAF). all airports are destined to receive commercial Responsabilité Civile Professionnelle conformes aux articles L 541-3 du Code Monétaire et Financier and L512-6 and 512-7 du Code des Assurances (assureur MMA).
016-fr

Blevins Franks Trustees Limited is authorised and regulated by the Malta Financial Services Authority for the administration of retirement schemes. This promotion has
France recently banned flights where the journey flights. If one airport has Ryanair flights, why been approved and issued by BFWML.

can also be completed by train in less than two- should another that’s 50km away do so?”
 10 What’s new connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Speeding fines, dental fees, rail networks... new changes in France

1. Online cancellation ance (a mutuelle), it means 5: Motorbike checks be new or used, electric or not.
NEW legislation has taken their insurer will now cover FRANCE is to introduce an You apply at your local branch. Speeding fine changes
effect that obliges insurance 40% of treatment, up from obligation for motorbikes and The offer will last until the end DRIVERS who are caught breaking the
companies to let clients cancel 30%, at an overall cost of mopeds to pass contrôle tech- of 2024, and can be combined speed limit by less than 5km/h will still
their contracts online ‘in three €500million per year. nique roadworthiness tests after with the government’s Bonus be fined (€135, or €68 if the speed limit
clicks’, whether they signed up Insurance providers have the country’s top administrative vélo grants, which are available is above 50km/h), even though they will
online or in a branch. This warned that they could raise court the Conseil d’Etat ruled it to the half of French households not lose a point on their licence, from

Photo: Shutterstock_ricochet64
includes contracts that predate prices next year to compensate. could not get around EU rules. on the lowest incomes. next January.
the new legislation. The government was set two Resident drivers with foreign licences
This obligation also applies 4: Roaming fees months to implement the
7: Sports grant must swap to a French licence if they
to other sectors, such as phone EE HAS become the latest UK measure from June 1 but the THE €50 help towards sports commit an offence involving the loss
and electricity contracts. network provider to introduce Transport Minister has said it club fees has been extended to of points, so this should no longer be
Websites should now feature roaming charges for customers will start from 2024. Application commercial sports centres, necessary for small speeding fines.
a Résilier votre contrat (Cancel travelling in the EU. will be staggered with vehicles such as gyms, climbing walls,
your contract) button. Firms It applies to pay-as-you-go that predate 2017 being the and skating rinks. after all mandatory social con- spiralling out of control with
have until September 1 to plans, as EE had already intro- first to be included. He said the Some 6.7 million young tributions have been deducted, inflation, and was due to end
comply with the new rules. duced charges for pay-monthly check will cost “less than €50”. people are eligible for the and is the amount to declare on June 30 this year.
clients who joined or upgraded Pass’Sport: those who receive when applying for benefits. MPs voted in favour of the
2: Regulated gas tariff from July 7, 2021. 6: Bike loans the ARS back-to-school allow- extension, but it must still be
FRANCE’S fixed, regulated gas Vodafone and Three are FRENCH banks CIC and Crédit ance, the AEEH benefit for 9: Trains from Spain approved by the Senate.
tariff was abolished on June 30. also among the companies to Mutuel have launched a pro- children with disabilities, SPAIN’S state-owned rail oper-
Engie clients who have not yet charge for data roaming now gramme of interest-free loans the AAH for adults with ator Renfe will begin running 11: Back-to-school aid
signed up for a market-rate the UK has left the EU, but of up to €6,000 to help clients disabilities, and students trains between Barcelona and THE Allocation de rentrée
contract will be automatically others, including O2, do not. purchase a bicycle. The bike can who receive a bursary. Lyon on July 13, while its scolaire (ARS) back-to-school
transferred to a transitional They should receive an email Madrid-Marseille route will benefit will be sent out from
passerelle (bridge) offer. from the Sports Ministry in the launch on July 28. mid-August. This year the
3: Dental fees Post office opening hours second half of August, with a Tickets are already on sale amount ranges between €398
ONE thousand post offices across code to use when signing up. from €19 from certain French and €435 depending on the
THE proportion of dental fees stations, or €29 from Marseille age of the child.
rural France will expand their opening 8: Payslip changes
Photo: Shutterstock_sylv1rob1

paid for by the public health hours over the next 18 months. or Lyon. The trains will stop in To be eligible, households
system is to fall to 60% from La Poste has announced more post CHANGES to payslips come French towns including must earn less than a certain
October. offices will open on Saturdays or other into effect in July, to better Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, threshold (for example,
Currently 70% of soins den- busy days, such as when the market inform workers of their earn- Montpellier and Perpignan. €25,775 if you have one child,
taires (general dental work, ings and eligibility for benefits. or €31,723 for two).
such as fillings, extractions,
takes place, as part of an agreement
with mayors and the state. The documents must now 10: Rent cap extension If you already receive CAF
treatment for gum diseases etc) La Poste also plans to reduce the number of unexpected daily include a new section, Montant THE CAP on annual rent benefits and your child is under
is covered by social security. closures, and end counters, meaning employees will now help net social, showing the income increases at 3.5% is expected 16, you have nothing to do.
Voluntary top-up insurance can clients wherever they are in the building. Local studies will be used to calculate benefits such to be extended until March 31 Otherwise, you must declare
make up the rest. undertaken before deciding which areas will be affected. as the prime d’activité or RSA. next year. The cap was intro- your income from mid-July at
For people with top-up insur- It corresponds to net income duced in 2022 to prevent rents tinyurl.com/arsrequest.

Are you a contractor or thinking Renovation grants reform Dates for your diary
FRANCE’S grant scheme to give aid to make homes more
of working remotely from France? energy-efficient will be subject to changes from January 1.
MaPrimeRénov’ will be organised into two sections:
June 28 - July 25: Official summer
sales period in France
‘performance’ grants for large-scale renovations, and
‘efficiency’ grants for changing a boiler, or a combination July 1: Daily quotas introduced for
of a small number of renovations, including insulation and the Calanques de Sugiton and Pierres
low-carbon heating systems. Tombées, with mandatory reserv-
If you are planning on working ‘Performance’ grants will become more attractive, meaning ations at tinyurl.com/bookcalanque
from home in France as a freelancer, the amount left to pay by the lowest-income households is
Are you a contractor or thinking of working remotely from
contractor, or for your existing France?minimal, the government has promised. It will also be oblig- July 1: The Tour de France begins in
UK employer and have concerns atory to consult a Mon Accompagnateur Rénov’ advisor for Bilbao, Spain. It will end in Paris on
July 23 with the traditional Champs-
If regarding compliance,
you are planning social from home in
on working ‘performance’ renovations. This will be free for those on the
Elysées finish
charges
France as aorfreelancer,
declaring contractor,
your work lowest incomes, and local authorities can decide to cover
or for your existing UK employer and have part or all of the cost for other groups. The aid available for
then Challenge & Co. have the July 2-5: La Fête du Cinéma. Tickets
perfect regarding
solution. compliance, social charges this service will increase from €1,200 to €2,000, with the
concerns or will be reduced to €5 in all cinemas
government pledging an additional €300million to fund this.
declaring your work then Challenge
As your English-speaking Umbrella & Co. have
France is hoping to reach 200,000 large-scale renovations
thecompany
perfect solution. July 8: First day of school holidays
in France, we can provide in 2024, compared to 90,000 today.
Asyouyour English-speaking
with employee statusUmbrella
under company in Will renovation grants be
July 8: Paris Plages returns with
France, we canSalarial
our Portage provideregime
you with employee status
giving extended to DIY projects?: Page 4
various events, activities, and beach
under ourfreedom
you the Portage Salarial regime
to freelance giving you the
without furniture along the banks of the Seine
freedom
employment
to freelance
the worry without the worry of self-
of self-employment
in France. in France. 3D Google Maps available and at La Villette. It will run until
August 27
GOOGLE Maps has
unveiled 3D views of 13 July 13-14: Firefighters in Paris and
• Employee, Health, Unemployment & Retirement French landmarks, with its various other towns and cities open
benefits ‘Immersive View’ function up their stations for the annual
n Employee, Health, Unemployment
• No administration
& Retirement benefits set to be available across bal des pompiers (firemen’s ball)
• Fully Compliant solution for your Agency,the whole of Paris in the
No administration
n Current Employer or Clients coming months. July 14: Fête nationale celebrations
• Member of PEPS (syndicat des Allde
Professionnels of the landmarks are will take place across France, includ-
n Fully Compliant solution for ing the traditional military parade on
l’Emploi en Portage Salarial) in the Paris region, includ-
your Agency, Current Employer the Champs-Elysées. See also page 11
ing the Eiffel Tower and
or Clients Château de Versailles,
Screenshot: Google Maps

www.freelanceinfrance.com English speaking helpline +33 (0) 249 880 125 contact@freelanceinfrance.com except for the Fondation July 24: The first tax assessments will
n Member of PEPS (syndicat des arrive by post (those who requested a
Professionnels de l’Emploi en Maeght in Saint-Paul-de-
Vence (Alpes-Maritimes). paper copy should receive it by
Portage Salarial) August 25). Online tax assessments
The function is available
in the Google Maps app will become available in people’s
and has already launched in aerial images to create an accounts between July 26 and August
4. If you have extra tax to pay, this
www.freelanceinfrance.com cities including London, interactive, 3D rendering
should come out of your account in
Los Angeles and New York. of a given city. A time slider
English speaking helpline +33 (0) 249 880 125 The technology uses com- allows you to see what the September, or in staggered payments
between September and December if
contact@freelanceinfrance.com puter vision and AI to fuse area is like at different
you owe more than €300
together Street View and times of day.
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com News 11

70 years of amazing aerobatics FRENCH NEWS IN ENGLISH SINCE 2002

This year’s July 14 Subscribers save money

flying display by the
Patrouille de France + benefit from exclusive
will feature, for his first daily web articles
time, Franco-British
pilot Captain Jayson
Troy. He tells us what

Photo: Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Photo: Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace

it is like to train for
this unique event

JULY 14 celebrations, D-Day

commemorations, World Cup
victories… whenever people Here are some recent subscriber
in France gather to mark an The Alphajet has been used by the
Patrouille de France since 1981
Captain Troy in the PAF’s
signature blue uniform
web-only articles:
important event, the Patrouille
de France (PAF) aerial display n Tax officials discover n Tips on how to avoid
team is there. CULTURE NOTE: July 14 is 120,000 undeclared mobile phone roaming
Select pilots from the French known as La fête nationale or swimming pools in France charges when in France
Air and Space Force will per- Le 14 Juillet – and not Bastille n UK unveils launch price n How does France’s

Photo: J.MORTREUIL/Armée de l’Air

form for the Fête Nationale this Day – in France. It does not of new visa waiver: when tipping culture compare
month, an extra-special event commemorate the storming of and who is affected? to the US and UK?
as the unit celebrates its 70th the Bastille prison in 1789 but

In our August issue...

anniversary. July 14, 1790, when the Fête
For Captain Jayson Troy, half de la Fédération was held to
British on his mother’s side, it celebrate the Revolution and
will also be his first July 14
flight as part of the elite team.
“We’ve all done it before but winter training to refine their means there are folds as there
national unity.

national air display team.

Your questions answered
in the Rafale or Mirage 2000,” routines. This includes daily is a slight delay. The PAF pilots are among the n How do toll payments n Is cataract surgery
he said. “To do it in the sports training to prepare them “To avoid this and so the dis- Air and Space Force’s ‘ambassa- work for hire cars on fully reimbursed in France?
Alphajet of the Patrouille de physically for speeds of play remains graceful, we fly to dors’, as they represent not only new ‘barrier-free’ n When is deadline to
France is incredible, as we have between 300 and 800km/h. the leader’s music. He will say their country, but the force. motorways in France? change income tax return?
always been in their smoke as They are all experienced ‘Virage à droite, j’incline’ (Right After most performances, the n Is it legal to use a VPN Are there penalties for this?
they kick things off.” fighter pilots – to join the PAF, turn, I am leaning), and we pilots go to meet the audience. to watch TV from abroad?
Each year, three new pilots you must have completed a start to prepare – I am on the “We are there to create voc-
n I have French healthcare
join the PAF, and the other minimum of 1,500 flying hours left so I will go a bit higher ations. When I was a child, I n How can I cancel French but have now been given
team members change places. and be qualified as a patrol compared to the leader – and loved the Patrouille de France, will if selling home here? an S1. What should I do?
Captain Troy’s call sign is leader, or ‘four-ship lead’, the on the syllable cline I will push and that made me want to join
Athos 3 – he is inner left wing-
man, as first-year pilots are
highest qualification, meaning
you can have three or more
the stick to the right.”
Part of the rehearsal process
the air force,” Captain Troy
said. “You keep it in the back
PLUS KEY POINTS OF...
positioned next to the leader. aircraft in your flight. involves sitting around a table of your mind, because it seems
Regional languages of France

“
The leader and Charognard and mimicking the hand ges- so inaccessible, even once you
(‘Scavenger’, just behind the tures they will make, a strange are in the air force.” and local accents and words
leader) must have graduated sight that resembles a sort of It is a dream come true,
from the Ecole de l’air in phantom orchestra. then, for the 40-year-old.
Salon-de-Provence and have During their training, flights “Every moment during the
been in the PAF for at least are filmed so that first-year flight is wonderful,” he said,
two years. pilots can be debriefed and adding that there are moments
The leader talks a It is a rigorous recruitment correct their imperfections. when he can look down and
lot over the radio process, with between seven Precision is everything when see the density of the crowd.
and 12 candidates for two spots flying less than three metres “I find that really moving.”
to let us know what for the wingmen positions, and from your fellow pilots. That comes with its own kind
he is doing so we three to five candidates for the
role of Charognard.
The leader comes up with the
choreography in consultation
of pressure. “We know we have
to be irreproachable in the air
can imitate him “You are not selected based with the third-year pilots. and on the ground.
on technical criteria, but on During the year, they prepare “We put pressure on ourselves

Xxxxxx
Philippe Etchebest
human criteria. If you are four- three different shows: one for all winter to be as perfect as
“I release red smoke, so that ship lead with 1,500 flying good weather, an intermediate possible for the summer
when we are in front of the hours, they know they will be version depending on the season. All eyes are on us.”
CHEF
audience, it makes the bleu, able to train you in six months.” height of the clouds, and a third On rare occasions, the PAF
blanc, rouge flag – the opposite Even after years spent flying show in case of bad weather. has teamed up with the Red CONNEXION INTERVIEW
of the Red Arrows.” in combat zones, or on Quick Aerobatics (aerial acrobatics) Arrows. They both flew over
It does not always go accord-
ing to plan and in 2018, one of
Reaction Alert duty (respons-
ible for intercepting any aircraft
dates back to 1913, when
Frenchman Adolphe Pégoud
London and Paris in 2020 to
mark the 80th anniversary of
‘Cook what you like. I know
the July 14 pilots who was due
to trail blue smoke released red
in their airspace), joining the
PAF means “deconstructing
became the first pilot to fly
upside-down. The air force has
Charles de Gaulle’s famous
speech on the BBC. quiche has no cheese but I
in error, said to be due to faulty
communication. The pilot
what we have learned and
starting from zero”, said
had aerobatic teams since the
1930s, but the most important
“Maybe we will be able to do
something with them next year put it in because I like it’
thought his two tanks contained Captain Troy. date is 1953, when Squadron for the 80th anniversary of the
white and blue smoke, not blue The first half of the 20-min- Leader Delachenal’s 3rd combat Normandy landings. I hope to These and many more practical tips and topics
and red as was the case. ute show, labelled the ‘ribbon’ division, stationed in Reims and get to meet them during my about life in France + full access to our website

subscribe
There are eight pilots, plus phase, where the eight planes created the year before, was three or four years here, con-
one backup pilot in their fourth fly as one, requires pilots to giving a show in Algiers. sidering my British origins.”
year (most only do three years) adapt their techniques to be The commentator exclaimed: From May to October, the
who can replace any team perfectly synchronised. “Ladies and gentlemen, here is Patrouille de France puts on
Subscribe now at connexionfrance.com
member, except the leader. “The leader talks a lot over the Patrouille de France!” around 50 shows, as well as fly-
“That’s because we get used the radio to let us know what The famous blue, white and pasts for various commemora-
to the leader’s movements he is doing so we can imitate red smoke was added in 1958. tions and events. You can see a to receive the August edition at your home and
during winter training.” him. We are used to flying in In 2008, Virginie Guyot was list of PAF displays at tinyurl.
New recruits spend a month close formation in fighters, but the first woman to join the com/pafshows. “Don’t hesitate to
benefit from full access to our web articles.
with the previous year’s team the leader of a fighter squadron Patrouille de France, before come and see Athos 3 and say Only €69 to a French address
to learn how things work, then doesn’t talk. His plane turns becoming leader – the first hello and speak in English,” said
spend six months in intensive gently, and we follow, but that woman worldwide to lead a Captain Troy. Or call
call Nathalie on 06 40 55 71 63
 12 French Life connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Strict laws, lack of resources – but we

don’t regret homeschooling in France
France first-hand: The Tetley family say Covid gave people a
new respect for parents who homeschool
What to expect under école à la maison rules
Homeschooling ALTHOUGH the number of children receiving homeschooling (instruction
dans la famille/école à la maison) in France has been steadily rising in recent
years, a new law that came into force in 2021 is making it harder for parents
Interview by Annaliza Davis to start doing it.
The loi contre le séparatisme was introduced to help prevent the radicalis-
James Tetley, based in ation of pupils and means compulsory education in a public or private school
Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, can now only be waived in specific instances, such as on health grounds, for
pupils who are gifted in a certain sport and need to fit lessons around their
explains why he and training, or if the child lives too far from the nearest school.
his wife Jayne chose to Parents must apply for authorisation to the directeur académique des
services de l’éducation nationale (Dasen) in their department and be prepared
educate their four children for inspections, from the first year, by the mayor. This inspection is repeated
at home, and how it has every two years until the child is 16 and will verify the reasons why you have
requested this form of education. It will also determine whether homeschool-
been working out ing is compatible with the family’s health and living conditions. At the time
of the inspection, you must provide a certificate of your child’s medical care.
WE MOVED from Greater London to The Dasen will conduct separate checks that the child is receiving adequate
France in 2014, and chose to live in the instruction and acquiring knowledge.
Pays de Gex area of Auvergne-Rhône- These are carried out at least once a year, sometimes with the assistance

“
Alpes because of my work. Lessons each day usually include of an educational psychologist. They can take place with or without advance
At the time, Grace was eight, Eliana the essentials of maths, English and warning. The inspector will check the child’s knowledge and skills in an
was six and Stephen was three, and as French, but the children are always interview with parents, in which they should explain the approach and teach-
we had already been homeschooling involved in creating the curriculum ing methods being used. The child then completes exercises (written or oral)
the girls in England, we continued to and timetable. appropriate to his/her age and health.
do so when we moved. In terms of content, we initially con- For families that fail, a second inspection will be scheduled at least one
We opted to send Stephen to the tinued with the resources we had been Homeschooling has month after the first results are sent, by which time the situation must be
local school so he could pick up the using in the UK, as we were familiar definitely been one of improved. If not, the Dasen requires that the child is enrolled in a regular
language. However, we found that with them. However, when our daugh- school within 15 days of the notification.
some of his learning needs were not ters did their IGCSEs and international the more challenging Homeschooling without being authorised to do so risks a fine of €1,500.
being met and he was not enjoying his
experience. So, after 18 months, we
baccalauréat we started using Wolsey
Hall and King’s InterHigh.
aspects of moving The inspections are always a little thing strange. They assume our
decided to teach him at home as well. We have stuck to a single approach to France unnerving as it is never 100% clear children must have no social skills or
Registering your children for home- for maths, the Singapore Method, what is being evaluated, and, of friends! That said, Covid gave many
schooling in France can be very com- because we always found it to be sons, if your family moves around too course, they are conducted entirely parents their own experience in home-
plicated, but we were fortunate to an excellent system that allowed frequently to attend school, or if your in French, which was tough when schooling and after that I sensed a
know another family who were our children to understand practical child has a particular talent in sports we first arrived. growing respect because they realised
already homeschooling and they maths before moving to the abstract or art that requires intensive practice. We also found that the level of how difficult it is.
gave us copies of the declaration processes. As we were already homeschooling, support and understanding you Now Grace is 17, Eliana is 14,
letters they had submitted to the For history and English, we were initally exempt from this. Next can expect varies, depending on Stephen is 12 and our youngest, Joy, is
relevant authorities. This made the we have used different resources, year, however, we too will be required the individual inspector. six, so they are all at different stages in
initial process easier for us. including the Sonlight curriculum. to submit a justification. Being a for- Another challenge is that resources the education system.
When you teach your children at Recent changes to government eign family is not sufficient so we will are much harder to come by because Learning at home has meant we can
home there is more flexibility. You can policy in France have introduced likely explain we are looking to provide you are outside the conventional tailor their education and, despite the
adapt the hours and the curriculum to additional restrictions. Now, instead a bilingual education, as our children education system. For example, if complex process, we would do it all
the age and abilities of each child, as of simply making a declaration that have their eye on returning to the UK your child has special needs or dys- again. It has been a very fulfilling
well as their individual learning style. you intend to educate your child from for their higher studies. lexia, you could be on a waiting list experience, allowing each child to
We have a timetable for each of our home, you have to ask for permission. For us, homeschooling has definitely for two years before you see someone. develop at their own pace and focus
children but we build in flexibility, They are looking for justification, been one of the more challenging Homeschooling remains quite rare on specific interests to help them in
depending on their progress. such as specific health or disability rea- aspects of moving to France. in France and many view it as some- their future.

Career change: Weddings are the only thing I won’t shoot in my diverse role
In our series featuring Becky Dove photography business. I began stressful! I am a natural light ing is definitely the way to go
people who have
New directions: by selling fine art prints and photographer so always shoot if you are running a business
photography products, hosting on location, which can mean a in a remote area.
changed career Youth development small exhibitions locally and bit of travelling. However, it is You can generate enough
in France, Becky Dove, to photography inviting friends and acquaint- always interesting to meet new custom if you are prepared to
ances. I then discovered all the people and explore new places, be open-minded and think
53, explains how she financially too, working various work the Chambre de Métiers so I enjoy the experience. outside the box. I have been
grew a flourishing jobs, including in a local bar, in Limoges does to support In 2016, I decided to start amazed at how my business
cleaning gîtes and on a veget- artisans, including a twice- some photography clubs, has grown, and love the fact
photography business able farm. yearly shop where I was able which provide an opportunity that it has happened organic-
I knew eventually I would to sell products. for people to get to know their ally, through people inquiring
IN THE UK, I worked as a like to do something that Gradually, more and more cameras. and suggesting different
youth development officer for a tapped into my creativity, and opportunities came my way. There are two levels. In the services and activities.
local council. In addition, I had often thought about which I discovered the Rue des beginners’ group, I show part- As for the future, I am always
a part-time job as a children’s of our time. When we discover- direction this might take. Arts in Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche, icipants different functions on willing to try new avenues.
rights advocate, visiting young ed we could buy a house in Before my work in youth for example, where the local their camera and set a small Recently, I have been asked to
people in secure units and France outright, and pay off development, I had done a fine council manages pop-up art challenge to do at home. We run some nature photography
young offender institutions. our debts to boot, it seemed arts degree and always had a shops over the summer. meet once a month. walks by a retreat business,
While I enjoyed my work, it the ideal solution. keen interest in photography. As time went on, I increased The more advanced group which I am looking forward to.
was very ‘full on’. Like many We moved to Haute-Vienne In my new French surround- my services to offer portraits meets six times a year for My working day is incredibly
families in the UK, we found in 2007 for a new life. Nine ings and with my growing and individual photoshoots. photoshoots around the region. different to how it was in the
ourselves up to our eyeballs in months later, our youngest family as guinea pigs, my I now also take pictures of Recently we have photographed UK. I am outside so much of
debt and simply working to child Jaiden (now 15) was born. passion for photography went houses for private sellers and the market in Limoges, for the time. Although life has
pay the mortgage, with little My husband Frank set up a into overdrive. I began to study estate agents, as well as photo- example, and the old factories become incredibly busy in
left over for ourselves. gardening business, which the art, practising and perfect- graphing businesses and prod- by the river at Saint-Junien. recent years, I do not feel
My eldest, Lilly, was three brought in the majority of our ing my skills. ucts. The only service I stay Having different strings to stressed as I am the master of
years old and we wanted to income, while I looked after By 2013, with Frank’s help, I away from is wedding photo- my bow means I am never my own time and love every
give her a better life and more the kids. However, I helped out was ready to start my own graphy – I would find it too bored – and I think diversify- minute of what I do.
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com French Life 13

Rugby colours all parts of town life and I’ve got the bug too
When La Rochelle
became European
Resistance runs in the club’s blood
champions for a
second consecutive
year in May, some
50,000 rugby fans

Photo: Abaca Press / Alamy

gathered for a victory
parade at the town’s
old port. Among them
was British supporter Stade Rochelais’s Jules Favre during a Champions Cup
Lynn Andrews, who match against Ulster at Marcel-Deflandre stadium in January
LA ROCHELLE was occupied by German forces from 1940
explains what the club and among the new orders imposed by the Vichy regime was
means to her adopted a total ban on the burgeoning sport of rugby league.
Establishment rugby union figures in the government hoped
home town it would eradicate the rival strand of the game, which was
politically associated with the left-wing Popular Front party
MY FATHER instilled an and the wartime Resistance, as well as Catalan nationalism.

Photo: sylv1rob1_shutterstock
interest in rugby from a young The ban forced the town’s rugby league club, La Rochelle-
age, but it was La Rochelle that Etudiants XIII, to merge into Stade Rochelais in 1941, overseen
made me a true fan of the by one Marcel Deflandre, the club’s president.
sport when I moved here from Deflandre was also a leading member of the local Resistance
the UK 14 years ago. and eventually arrested on October 9, 1943. A few months later,
The town’s deeply anchored on January 11, 1944, he was shot by the Gestapo in Bordeaux.
passion for its local rugby union Stade Rochelais’ club colours and logo adorn La Rochelle’s town hall in 2021 and, inset, British La Rochelle’s rugby stadium was officially named in his
club was unknown to me then. fan Lynn Andrews celebrates in the crowd after the club won its first European title last year honour, Stade Marcel-Deflandre, in 1947.
And I had no idea that I, too,
would soon be swept up into team mostly confined to the or something more chic. Like aboard that victory bus in May, His best trick was the appoint- season led to a Top 14 final
the arms of the extended Stade second division. the composition of a rugby now internationally recognised ment of Ronan O’Gara as head against south-west arch-rival
Rochelais family. Back then, winning was not a team, La Rochelle fans come in European champions, are still coach in 2021. This dour hero Toulouse in June. It was a
A surprise birthday gift of two priority: participating honour- all shapes and sizes, and this considered by the whole town of the Irish national team was hitherto unthinkable oppor-
match tickets was all it took. ably was the credo. English-born supporter is as our dear beloved sons. not an instant hit with support- tunity to become both French
One game and I was hooked. With no championship silver- proud to stand among them. We know them by their team ers. Erroneously labelling him and European champions in the
These days I am a season ware to brag about until recent- There are certainly a lot of us. nicknames – Saz, Bourga, Leps ‘English’, die-hard fans disliked same year.
ticket-holder, and my well- ly, the club has flourished for The 16,000-capacity stadium is – and nod amicably when we him watching matches from a Sadly, that dream was not to
worn, player-autographed more than 125 years on the trad- usually jam-packed. The last see them out shopping or pick- box high above the pitch. He be. Victory was snatched from
supporter’s flag gives me cred- itional rugby values of respect, 80 consecutive premier league ing up their children from was arrogant, too distant. La Rochelle in the final minutes
ibility as a fully-fledged fan. humility, and team spirit. matches have all been sold out school. Yes, their giant frames Over time, however, the of the game, finishing 29-26.
I shared the joy of their Those tenets are the backbone – a record-breaking statistic make them unmissable in a doughty O’Gara has turned the It was the cruellest of ends to
Champions Cup victory over of the enduring support that unrivalled in the Top 14 league. crowd, but in true Stade tide of popular opinion. In the most exceptional of seasons.
Irish side Leinster in May with still binds club and town today. With 13,000 season ticket- Rochelais tradition, it is their heavily accented French, he So what now? Well, Ronan
a clan of Stade Rochelais- That support is a visible holders occupying most of the genuine humility that makes made it clear he was not in La O’Gara certainly hasn’t said his
obsessed friends at the town’s feature of La Rochelle everyday seats, one-off tickets are like these players stand out in the Rochelle for the craic. He was last winning words. And La
old port. life. Spend a few hours at the gold dust. locals’ hearts and minds. all about winning. Rochelle’s armada of yellow-
Like so many other supporters Saturday morning market and Season tickets do not come The patriarch of the Stade And slowly but surely, that has and-black-clad supporters are
here, their love of the club is a you will soon get the idea. easily either. Expect to linger on Rochelais family is its unassum- happened. At Marcel-Deflandre, ready and waiting to crowd to
family affair spanning several Here, the club’s yellow-and- the waiting list for a good three ing 74-year-old president, he has shown himself to be the the old port again next year to
generations. Our friendship has black colours adorn shops, years. I, for one, will not be giv- Vincent Merling. Affectionately ultimate tactician, and his name welcome home our victorious
been forged on the noisy terrac- eateries and market stalls. ing up my season ticket any known as ‘Merlin(g) the rings out from the stands. heroes. Ici, ici, c’est La Rochelle!
es of the Stade Marcel- Residents, meanwhile, parade time soon. Wizard’, this former player and Now, no one deliberately mis-
Deflandre, but their grandpar- the streets in an eclectic array of Ultimately, it is the club’s local entrepreneur has sure- takes his Irish nationality. n Want to know what
ents remember when the stadi- two-tone attire, whether that be family spirit that is its most footedly overseen the club’s As European Championship makes France unique? Just
um was a single stand and the conventional logoed sportswear endearing asset. The heroes spectacular ascent. euphoria subsided, the domestic look at its rugby: Page 14

Fight off ‘expat isolation’ by being brave – and kinder to yourself

Feeling lonely in Even readers who have lived in France French class appropriate to your level, the time and expense of owning one, matter what the outcome, you will be a
for some time can feel lonely, especially go along to a book club, or become walking it is a great way to meet new more rounded person for having dared
your new life in when people come and go and the tran- active in the community by volunteer- people. If you have children, you could to try.
France? Cynthia sience becomes unsettling. ing. Inquire at the local town hall get involved in school activities. The
Whatever situation you find yourself or library, or search online for school gates are a fabulous place to meet Six isolation-busting tips
Spillman has tips on in, practise some self-compassion. opportunities. new people. • Take action – new friends won’t come
finding friends and feeling There is no point beating yourself up. You could also think outside the box Those who already know a few knocking on your door
better about it all. Cynthia Lots of people feel this way. No matter and try something new. What is the people in France might consider host- • Seek professional help if necessary,
what your head is telling you, know that worst that can happen? Keep an open ing a get-together and asking guests to especially if you develop an unhealthy
specialises in relationships you are not alone. mind and don’t dismiss anything before bring a friend, rather than a bottle. If dependency on alcohol
and overcoming adversity You do, however, need to take action. you at least try it once. you don’t know anyone, be bold and • Build up your confidence gradually,
You will not feel part of your communi- Note, too, that there are expat groups knock on your neighbours’ doors or put by taking baby steps
and joins us with a regular ty or make new friends by simply stay- all over France. Contact them and a note through their letterbox inviting • Try to do one new thing a week to
column ing at home, waiting for people to you might find a range of activities to them for coffee. break your sense of isolation
knock on your door. participate in, plus new people who feel All the while, be open with others and • Be kind to yourself – what would you
WHETHER this is your first inter- It can also be tempting to try to fill the the same as you. Remember, you only let them know you are struggling. say to your best friend?
national move or not, when the inner void you are experiencing with need to meet one person you like and People cannot possibly know how you • If you want to return home, know you
honeymoon phase is over, you might some outer ‘fix’. You might find yourself they will probably introduce you to a are feeling unless you tell them. There are not a failure. You are a success
feel completely overwhelmed. drinking too much, for network of other people. is no reason to feel ashamed. because you tried.
When you were fantasising about it, it example, or spending a lot of time It is important to get out of the house If, after a certain time, you feel you
was all terribly exciting. Now reality has online chatting to people back home. – and get some exercise. I like the have made a mistake and want to pack If you have any experiences to share
hit, France might no longer feel quite so While it is good to stay in touch, if expression: ‘Your mind is like an unsafe up and go back home, congrat- about overcoming loneliness, or
much like Shangri-La. you have made the decision to live in neighbourhood; don’t go there alone.’ It ulate yourself for having had the any questions about the emotional
Although this new lifestyle can be France, your focus should be on making will throw up all sorts of reasons for just courage to attempt to live in France. aspects associated with living in France,
rich in experience and variety, it can be the best of it in the present moment. sitting at home moping. There is no such thing as failure. It is feel free to email Cynthia via
difficult too. Indulge your hobbies, join a local If you are a dog-lover and can afford just another learning experience and no news@connexionfrance.com
14 Comment connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023
Richard Ogier is an Australian journalist based in Simon Heffer, the renowned political commentator
Strasbourg. He has written on France and Germany
for the LA Times, Canadian Globe and Mail, Liberation, and historian, turns his gaze to French politics
Independent and for his native Australian press.
He is a regular columnist with The Connexion Simon Heffer is also a columnist for the Daily and Sunday Telegraphs

Want to know what I Change of PM

t is unusual for French politics
to be so turbulent and divisive in
the second year of a presidential
quinquennat as they are now: but

makes France unique?

then, in the 65-year history of the

is needed to
Fifth Republic, there have been few
moments quite like this.
Within weeks of President Macron

Just look at its rugby winning his second term – won

mainly because he was not Marine
Le Pen – his administration was

help stave off

beleaguered, having lost its majority
MIGHT it be true that, in journalism, when fine writers write, they write in the Assemblée Nationale. A series
about sport, and often they write about rugby? of narrowly-won votes of confidence
Some of the most perceptive foreign observation I’ve ever read of followed, and massive outrage when
my own country was by Pierre Grundmann, Libération’s Australia the government raised the pensiona-
correspondent in the early 2000s, through the prism of the football codes. ble age, through use of the anti-dem-

Le Pen in 2027
Today, as France prepares to host the Rugby World Cup starting ocratic measure of section 49.3 of
September 8 — 48 matches in nine stadiums, 38 in the provinces — he the constitution.
edits the quarterly, Attitude Rugby. There is a tradition in French poli-
French rugby writing has its lofty traditions and its Name writers (with a tics that when matters turn difficult
capital ‘N’). The tendency is to see grand metaphors in the sport for the the president sacrifices his prime
way humans organise collectively. Jean Lacouture — whose passions were minister, even if that prime minister
“opera, rugby and bullfighting”, according to his obit — wrote biographies has only been obeying orders. Yet
of de Gaulle and a Vietnamese President when he wasn’t writing about the present incumbent, Elisabeth
rugby for Le Monde. Borne, has proved – at least at time For the most part, his regime was And that consideration is why
Jean-Pierre Bodis wrote the first history of world of writing – a remarkable survivor. endorsed by a majority who simply Mme Borne might not last much
rugby in French, but his interest was less competitions In France, She has kept a deeply unpopular wanted a quiet life. longer – indeed, might have gone
and match results than the game’s social milieu and administration going when others Pétain’s agreement to surrender to before you have the chance to read
the earthy smell of its regional roots; more specifically,
rugby is would have collapsed. Hitler in June 1940 was done because this. M Macron cannot seek a third
French rugby’s impressive development in a non-anglo- rooted in Indeed, there was talk earlier that he sincerely (and plainly wrongly) term; no other national political fig-
phone country, outside the old British empire. the regional at the first opportunity – a year after thought collaboration was in the ure has the profile of Mme Le Pen;
Pierre Sansot saw a whole art de vivre, a unique last June’s elections – M. Macron best interests of those French who therefore she might well win in 2027.
combination of morality and culture, drawing a South West, might dismiss the administration were able to stay, for a while at least, A prime minister who might – just
distinction, as he saw it, between the ‘sport’ side of intimately and call a fresh poll. under his rule. might - develop policies that impress
rugby — that is, the hard work of it — and the ‘game’ The slump in his popularity put It was odious, but not fascism. the French public could help France
side, full of freedom and ivresse, which you’d probably
woven into an end to that, since the likelihood Mme Borne has her own very good avoid that outcome. But in default of
have to translate as exaltation. If that sounds the fabric was that the outcome would be reasons to detest the French hard that, panic is setting in.
highfalutin, consider that the title of Sébastian of life in even more unfavourable than last right. Her father survived the death If indeed M. Macron is not going
Darbon’s venerated volume is ontological: Rugby as year’s. He could simply have replaced camps; some members of his family to commit the political suicide of
a Way of Being in the World. provincial Mme Borne instead – now a strong did not. He later committed suicide. calling further legislative elections,
For French rugby in English, academic Philip Dine town and possibility – but, at least immediate- She knows Marine Le Pen’s 95-year- he could at least put someone in
had me fascinated when I interviewed him some years ly, he did not. old father, Jean-Marie, has a record Matignon who, being less embattled
ago about his book, French Rugby Football: A Cultural
village There are plenty of contenders of racism and anti-semitism. than Mme Borne and enjoying his
History. The story wound up on the cutting room floor for her job, which may soon be Doubtless on the principle that confidence, would pick up support
at The Australian newspaper in Sydney, but I see his vacant. Reports, varying from leopards don’t change their spots, for his administration.
distinguished volume is still available. well-founded accounts to low gossip, Helpfully, one French media outlet
As Dine’s book amply showed, for non-readers of the Anglo sports pages have emerged about the deteriorating has listed its top ten prétendants for

“
or French sports daily, L’Equipe — itself unique, there’s no equivalent in relationship between the president Mme Borne’s job. At number one
the UK or the Antipodes — there’s a broader cultural interest at play. If you and his prime minister. is the man they call M Macron’s
want a sphere of human activity where the notion of French difference is In the latter category was a scurril- chouchou – his teacher’s pet – Julien
clear, look no further than rugby. ous claim that M. Macron was urging Denormandie, the former agriculture
Why? Because la différence lies in both the facts of the game and Mme Borne (a divorcee with one minister and now in the private sec-
the mythology that surrounds it. In France, rugby is rooted in the regional son) to come out as a lesbian. tor, who like Mme Borne is an engi-
South West, intimately woven into the fabric of life in provincial town and That may be nonsense but, like all neer by profession.
village. In England and Australia, despite attempts at democratisation, it such things in politics, it circulates Other favourites include Bruno Le
remains fairly exclusive, starting with the old school tie before moving to because there is bitterness about. Maire, already used to opprobrium
the universities. Only in New Zealand is rugby the all-dominant football Indisputable, and a source of con- To an extent, replacing as the man in charge of France’s
code, which may be why the All Blacks have generally been the best team spicuous tension, is that Mme Borne stuttering economy, and Gérald
in the world. compared Marine Le Pen’s
Mme Borne is a little Darmanin, the interior minister who,
The myth-making centres on the French style of play. The flare of the Rassemblement National with the like choosing the next like M. Macron, has an increasingly
running game, with much less Anglo-style kicking — quickly tedious for supporters of Marshal Pétain during bitter relationship with Mme Borne.
the non-specialist spectator — is beautifully captured in the phrase, the Nazi occupation of France. animal for sacrifice... He has been under fire because of a
‘Champagne rugby’. The point is to highlight the fluidity of the French M. Macron was furious, aware that perception of growing violence and
game, compared to the stonewall of the big Home Nations and Australian a leader of his government compar- unrest on French streets that seems
forwards, or ‘packs’, denoting a more defensive brand of play. ing the growing number of support- uncontrollable.
French rugby’s stain was always its close association with the pro-Nazi ers of Mme Le Pen with what he To an extent, replacing Mme Borne
Vichy regime of Marshal Pétain. The game’s ruling body drew on contacts called ‘fascists’ was not a good idea. is a little like choosing the next ani-
to get Rugby League banned — then a growing sport — which went close That such a squabble should have she cannot accept that the sanitisa- mal for sacrifice: their life cannot
to killing Rugby à 13 in the ensuing years. It’s still played around broken out shows just how febrile tion of the RN since it was the last much longer, as M. Macron
Perpignan and Carcassonne but otherwise far trails Rugby Union, life at the top of politics currently is. Front National is either genuine casts around for a way to keep
or Rugby à 15. Marshal Pétain would not have or convincing. Mme Le Pen out of his job.
The sense of rising excitement about the World Cup is partly because considered himself a fascist, or possi- However, M. Macron is aware that A contributor to Le Figaro even
the French feel (and not only the French), that they can win it for the first bly even a fascist sympathiser, so it many of the mainstream voters he suggested that the constitution be
time. France is second behind Ireland in the world rankings, and there’s is odd that M. Macron should have would like to tempt back to more changed to allow him to have a third
a certain consensus about the quality of coaching and the current crop accused Mme Borne of alluding to centrist parties by 2027, when France term, which would be a measure of
of players. For many observers, Antoine Dupont, a young son of the South this highly toxic term. next chooses a president, are cur- extreme desperation.
West, is the best rugby player in the world. It is not even clear that many who rently toying with the RN faute de And the assumption he would win
I look forward to watching and reading accounts of matches. What with went along with him were fascists, mieux. Insulting them, however jus- if he could seek another mandate
geopolitics as they are, the carnival expression of big-hearted although undoubtedly some were tified and well-motivated the insult looks about as solid as believing
solidarity, in a true and honourable spirit, beckons like balm. and, more than that, were committed might be, looks like the best way to Mme Borne will survive the summer
supporters of Nazism. put Mme Le Pen in the Elysée Palace. holidays.

52,000 readers receive Connexion’s weekday free e-newsletters. Do you? Sign up at connexionfrance.com
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Comment 15
Limiting GP freedoms ‘not the answer’ Nabila Ramdani is an award-winning
French-Algerian journalist who specialises
in French politics and the Arab world.
Telling new GPs poses, not to plug gaps. If they are still
Her articles feature in the French national
students, it means the government does
where they can not consider them sufficiently skilled press as well as internationally.
work would not to practise alone, but if they are sent to She is a regular columnist in The Connexion.
areas where there are no doctors, there
solve shortages, will be no tutors to supervise them.”

Vegetable gardens
medical intern

Photo: pascal vandon / Alamy Stock Photo

Overall, there is a feeling that the
Raphaël Presneau, pictured, young generation “will be made to
carry the burden of 30 years of inaction
tells Martin Greenacre

represent the true

and bad decisions”.
At the heart of the crisis is the numerus
DICTATING where GPs can work clausus, the limit on the number of med-
“would have risked worsening access to ical students introduced in the 1970s

France – taxing them

care”, says Raphaël Presneau, president with the aim of reducing healthcare
of the ISNAR-IMG, a union of general spending, and finally abolished in 2021.
medicine interns. ‘Baby doctor without a future’: The healthcare profession argues this
He spoke of his relief after MPs reject- Medical students protested last change came far too late, as GP num-

would be a scandal
ed an amendment to a ‘medical deserts’ year against a planned extra year bers are expected to continue falling
bill that would have prevented GPs set- of internship in ‘medical deserts’ until around 2030, the time it takes for
ting up practices in areas where there vent doctors settling in certain areas, the larger cohorts to graduate, and
are already enough doctors, except to he argues, as “there are shortages every- President Macron has admitted short-
replace a departing doctor. where”. There are more than six million ages will worsen in the coming years. AMONG the most life-affirming vignettes in French philosophy is the
It would have replicated restrictions people in France without a médecin Other measures France has taken to one by Voltaire that includes the charming words: “We must cultivate
on other specialities, such as pharm- traitant (personal GP), and 30% of combat medical deserts include offer- our garden” (Il faut cultiver notre jardin). A wise old Muslim man
acists, but it failed to gain the support people are estimated to live in a ‘medical ing new doctors financial incentives referred to as ‘The Turk’ utters them as he explains how he ignores the
of the ruling majority. desert’ where there are doctor shortages. to move to under-served areas. While world’s horrific problems, and instead concentrates on his little plot.
“Difficulties accessing GPs are more He also rejects the suggestion that financial help is often vital, it cannot be Forget trying to sort out inequality, injustice, natural disasters, and
due to a global deficit in the number of young doctors are attracted by larger the only incentive, Mr Presneau argues. other grim matters beyond our control, this key character in Voltaire’s
doctors than a distribution problem,” cities. “What is true is that they are “Interns’ primary concerns are the Candide, which was published in 1759, suggests that growing your
Mr Presneau said. attracted by working in a group, but living conditions, finding a job for their own fruit and vegetables, and selling what you don’t eat at market –
The number of private GPs fell from that is not incompatible with under- partner, or a school for their kids.” as he does – will give you all the personal fulfilment you need.
54,813 in 2010 to 52,291 in 2021, served areas. The latest social security budget The true meaning of Voltaire’s life guidance has been discussed
according to figures from France’s “The days when every commune of includes funding for centralised serv- and reappraised a thousand times (it’s called philosophising), but the
SNDS health database, while the 800 inhabitants would have a doctor ices at department level, which will most obvious meaning – your own plot equates to happiness – has
French population has grown. As a are over, but it is possible to have a help doctors with the administrative been a bedrock of French life for centuries. The
result, there were 85 private GPs for grouping of communes with a health tasks when settling in the area. eternal France mythologised by Gallic icons from
every 100,000 inhabitants in 2010, centre where there are several doctors.” The other key issue, he said, is freeing Joan of Arc to Charles de Gaulle is one full of proud Macron
but this was down to 77 in 2021. In another recent reform, general up time for the doctors who are already but humble gardeners turning over their own fertile
However, studies show that the differ- medicine students will undertake a practising. “Speaking to young doctors, soil and remaining self-sufficient in the process. knows that
ence in access between the areas with fourth year of internship, making for around 20% of their consultations are The concept of La France profonde (Deep France) even a few
the greatest number of GPs and those 10 years of training overall, starting superfluous.” He gives the example of – a rural idyll with endless roots – has inspired
with the least is less significant than with interns who will enter their fourth patients who have the flu or a stomach songs, literature, and films. Even King Louis XIV euros from
it is for other professions, such as year in 2026. Interns will be encour- bug, but require a doctor’s certificate to was a green-fingered sovereign. His Potager du Roi every plot
physiotherapists or midwives. aged to spend this year in areas exper- take time off work. He suggests France (King’s Vegetable Garden) is still open to this day
The fall in numbers is further aggra- iencing shortages, with an extra €400 copies Portugal in allowing workers to at Versailles. The contentment it brought to the would bring
vated by generational differences in per month for those who do so. self-declare an illness and take up to Sun King is undoubtedly one of the reasons he is in multi-
working practices, Mr Presneau said. ISNAR-IMG members went on strike three days of sick leave. the world’s longest-serving monarch, with a reign
“A young GP works, on average, 55 to in an attempt to block the measure, Health Minister François Braun has lasting 72 years and 110 days. millions
58 hours per week, which is a lot, but but the government pushed it through already said he wants to remove the Hence the sense of outrage at the rumour that
still less than the older generation.” parliament using the Article 49.3 need for a medical certificate when Emmanuel Macron – a Frenchman who is certainly
He believes placing constraints on constitutional mechanism as part of joining a sports club. far more interested in cataclysmic global affairs than local ones –
where GPs can practise would only the social security budget. Certain areas, meanwhile, have taken wants to tax profits on home gardens. It would be the kind of move
push more young doctors to work in “It was included in the ‘Access to care’ radical action without waiting for a that is typical of a fiscally-obsessed head of state who has never
hospitals, schools or other environ- chapter, not a chapter on ‘training’. Yet national solution. Nevers hospital in grown a carrot in his city-based life. At present, home plots, whether
ments, further reducing access to GPs. if a fourth year is going to be imposed Nièvre has begun flying doctors in allotments or modest window boxes, produce some of the best food
It would be counterproductive to pre- on us, it needs to be for training pur- from nearby Dijon once a week. in France. If the land does not exceed 500 square metres, nor
represent a main business, then owners keep all the profits.
Macron, a former banker and civil servant who specialised in tax,

Green is good – but bins policy is rubbish

knows that even a few euros from every plot across the Republic
would bring in multimillions. Such an initiative would bolster the
economy at a time when he has already caused riots by putting up
by Samantha David items in them, they left them outside and it makes the car stink. But once the pension age from 62 to 64 without a parliamentary vote.
your house plastered with embarrassing you find them, there’s more bad news: Messing with gardens would trigger even worse trouble, and that’s
IN THEORY, I’m pro-ecology, green stickers, essentially saying: “The occup- the recycling bins only have tiny post- undoubtedly why an Agriculture Ministry spokesman insisted that
and groovy, ready to do whatever it ants of number 5 have not sorted their age holes. So you have to undo the bin there were “no immediate plans” for the new tax. Opposition politic-
takes to save the planet. In practice, I rubbish properly!” bags, take everything out and push ians were less convinced – Macron has no obvious affinity with
look at the powers-that-be and wonder So I am trained about this. But here each individual item through the hole France’s rich soil, let alone those who cultivate it, meaning he could
why they make it so difficult? in France, our village is only just get- of the right bin. spring a mean-minded levy at any moment, using a presidential
Let’s take the bins. A lowly but import- ting going on rubbish, and their first It’s messy, it’s boring, it’s time-consum- decree to get it on the statute book.
ant part of keeping things environ- step was handing out new bins fitted ing, and in the winter it’s really not an Others have suggested that social media tricksters started the
mentally-friendly. I got into excellent with microchips so they can charge attractive activity. Why can’t we just lob rumours, but rightly so, because they draw attention to Macron’s
habits many decades ago in Belgium, everyone for emptying their bins. the stuff into a bin? contempt for ordinary people outside the Paris establishment, and
where I had 10 different bins: light Next up, they cut the collection There’s another thing too. It’s all very indeed his disregard for democracy.
bulbs, batteries, garden waste, food schedule from weekly to twice-monthly. well if you have a car, and if you have Whatever the case, there is no doubt that in a world of e-commerce
waste, plastics, metals, paper, glass, It’s a nightmare if you forget to put the physical fitness to do the whole and automated working practices that alienate and divide, we could
unused pills and medicines, and a your bin out, because a fortnight later posting-individually thing, but what all do with getting back to what really matters occasionally.
special brown bag for everything that you can’t fit everything in and they about the ill, the disabled, the house- Yes, the world is too interlinked to ignore the big issues completely,
didn’t fit into any other category. won’t take anything that isn’t in the bin. bound, the heavily pregnant? but as a means of distraction, it is hard to beat growing what you can,
Luckily, we had a large garage under The inspired thinking behind all this I rang the local bin authorities and keeping what you need, and making a satisfying profit off what’s left.
the house where we kept all these bins, is to encourage people to recycle using asked them. “We get charged a fortune If you want to hand your spoils over to a worthy cause, all the better
and emptying them was reasonably the ‘eco-points’ installed in every for delivering unsorted rubbish to the – just make sure it has nothing to do with grasping urban politicians.
straightforward. The blue and yellow village. The trouble is, no one wants a disposal centre,” she said.
bags went out on Tuesdays, the red and recycling point outside their house or Me: “So why don’t you make it easier Editor’s note: On the subject of rumours and fake news... French author-
brown on Thursdays, etc. There were even visible in the village centre, so to recycle, then?” ities recently announced they had uncovered a misinformation campaign
collection points for bulbs, batteries they are always sited behind the garage, Her: “Do you know the price of a bin involving actors affiliated to the Russian state. Fake web pages appear-
and meds. or beside the entrance to the tip, or lorry? The ones that collect different ing to belong to news sites such as Le Parisien and Le Monde, as well as
Apart from the expensive brown bags, somewhere equally inconvenient. categories of rubbish at the same time government sites, were found publishing pro-Russian propaganda. The
all the others were transparent, and if You have to drive to them. are even more expensive. Do you want fake sites looked identical but with a spelling mistake in the URL.
the refuse collectors saw the wrong Driving isn’t the greenest of activities, local rates to go up?”
 16 Letters connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Do you agree? French cuisine is not superior to other foods

by Nick Inman 2. Consumers there are not as discern- could get a debate going, I would insist
ing as French people; that Britain can sometimes outstrip
IT IS a cliché often heard in France: 3. The above points were true 30 years France when it comes to palatability.
“French food is the best in the world ago, when they last visited the UK/US. There’s tea (always too weak in
but British food…” Of course, there are differences France); conditioned, hand-pumped
The only way to conclude this sen- between the countries, but then there beers; Marmite (even if it was invent-
tence is with a grimace – people do are differences between the regions of ed by a German); bitter orange marm-
not eat well on the other side of the France itself. Some are more blessed alade; biscuits; cheeses; flavoured
Channel and that is a fact. Sometimes with variety and tradition than others. crisps (the French cannot get the
American food gets it in the neck too. The truth is that French food can be chemicals right); traditional apple
Everyone will nod in confirmation good but it can also be terrible. Ditto varieties; ploughman’s lunch (when
and someone will invariably offer The British and American cuisine. it is made comme il faut); wholemeal
Worst Meal I Ate in a London Pub. It depends where you eat and what bread; award-winning anglicised
Someone else will disparage steak you eat. You can choose examples to curries; proper seaside fish and chips;
and kidney pudding, and there is suit your prejudice. There are differ- rhubarb (with its own dénomination
always a laugh at the idea of eating ences in national culinary traditions d’origine); crackers for cheese; West

Photo: Zerbor_shutterstock
mint sauce with meat. but sticking too closely to the tenet Country cream teas; Home Counties
The mocking of UK/US cuisine ends that French cooking beats the rest is wines that are improving rapidly in
with a joke: there is no English equiv- the equivalent of package holiday- quality; and an explosion of inventive
alent of bon appétit for a reason. The makers going to the Costa del Sol vegetarian and vegan dishes.
US “enjoy your meal” does not quite and expecting chips for breakfast. I am sure American readers have
do it. The best translation, it might People joke that there is no English equivalent of bon appétit for a reason I mention all this because it is a their own examples to add.
be suggested, is “good luck”. shame there should be no-go areas of If the French baguette is to be recog-
It does no good to protest. conversations between nationalities nized as Intangible World Heritage, so
Whenever someone tells me that are faced here with a cultural stereotype. they think they can do better than any because a prevailing assumption too, I believe, should all the items on
British food is inedible, I counter that All generalisations fall flat in the face other nationality. prevents an honest exchange. the list above.
they never tasted my mother’s cooking. of exceptions and the maintenance of Precision always helps to modify or I am sure we are all guilty of doing
She lived in Yorkshire all her life and them is due to snobbery, or perhaps dispel a stereotype. What people who this to some extent and it is a reminder Do you agree or disagree with
every meal she prepared would have insecurity. denigrate UK/US food usually mean is: to me not to stick with judgements Nick Inman? Tell us why at
knocked spots off anything served in I suspect the French need to reassure 1. Public food in those countries is about French culture that I made on a news@connexionfrance.com
even a Michelin-starred restaurant. We themselves about one of the few things not so hot (sometimes literally); school trip to Paris as a teenager. If I

They said it … Russian origins

of word bistro?
GOING to the bistro is a bit
Summer CT for motorbikes
will be mission impossible
Mosquito effort
IT IS at least seven years since
we were last able to enjoy a sum-
For a long time, the Left like going to the pub in I WRITE regarding your online article claiming France will intro- mer almost free of mosquitoes.
England – there is a good time duce mandatory roadworthiness tests for motorcycles by August 1. They used to only appear in
presented itself as the party of to be had with pals and it is I have spoken to a couple of contrôle technique (CT) test centres evenings but now plague us
intelligence. Now it has become almost a ritual event for many. and neither has any experience of motorcycles, nor the equipment day and night with no respite.
Why is the word bistro used to test brakes, shock absorbers or headlight alignment. We cannot even put out wash-
the party of lazy thinking in France? Some claim the It is difficult to see how any CT tests could be reliably and consist- ing without covering up or
word originated in the 19th ently carried out without the correct equipment or training of staff. applying repellent. Summers
Jacques Julliard century when Russian troops In fact, it is impossible before August 1. I cannot see any official have stopped being a time to
Historian and journalist, in Marianne
occupied Paris following the training bodies operating during the peak holiday period either! look forward to.
Napoleonic Wars. Unlike car drivers, most of whom have no technical knowledge I have found myself sneaking
Wokeism is doing the
Olga Besnard_shutterstock

In Russian, bistro means of or interest in their vehicle, motorcyclists are, by and large, into neighbours’ gardens to
Far Right a favour ‘quick’, and it is plausible that enthusiasts who understand the importance of vehicle mainten- empty rainwater from neglect-
these soldiers, when ordering ance, not only for their personal safety, but riding enjoyment too. ed containers, even old tyres, as
Douglas Kennedy drinks at the bar, may have I have no objection to CTs for bikes but they must be relevant mosquitoes require just 1cm of
American novelist, in Le Journal du Dimanche shouted it to hurry up service. and carried out by knowledgeable staff. More important is the water to hatch. I also use
Stephen BURROUGH, by email introduction of CTs for voitures sans permis (VSP). Why these ‘Dunks’, which release bacteria
Today, the species we have never previously required testing is a mystery. They are cars. toxic only to mosquito larvae
Editor’s note: This is not Kevin WHITE, Haute-Vienne and float on standing water.
need to protect is man backed up by the Dictionnaire de However, these efforts are futile
Yann Arthus-Bertrand l’Académie française, which dates Editor’s note: Since publishing our article in early June, Transport unless everyone is involved.
Environmentalist, journalist and film-maker on FranceInfo the word from the 19th century Minister Clément Beaune has said the changes will not now come All I can recommend is repel-
and suggests it comes from the into force by August. You can read more details on p10. The full lent, repellent, repellent – until,
You don’t put a ‘yes but’ word ‘bistraud’ (‘little servant’)
in Poitou dialect, or ‘bistrouille’,
regulations and timetable for CT tests will be announced shortly.
While Mr Beaune did not specifically mentioned licence-free cars
that is, we inevitably discover it
causes nasty ailments as it is
after the word ‘decapitation,’ a colloquial term for cheap in his recent announcements, upcoming information is expected to absorbed by our skin.
you put a full stop brandy from northern France. contain details on obligatory roadworthiness tests for them too. Carl SIMS, Tarn-et-Garonne

Mickaëlle Paty
Sister of Samuel Paty, the teacher killed and beheaded in 2020 for
showing cartoons of Mohammed in a lesson on freedom of expression Dans le passé – 10, 50 and 100 years ago
These days noisy minorities JULY, 2013 JULY, 1973 JULY, 1923 Photo: Leonard Zhukovsky_shutterstock

rule over silent majorities Seven die in rail crash NZ anger at nuclear testing Lenglen wins fifth Wimbledon
AT 17:14 on July 12, seven people were IN JULY, France carried out another in FRENCH tennis star
Michel Onfray killed and many more seriously injured a series of nuclear tests on the Mururoa Suzanne Lenglen beat
Philosopher, in Paris Match
when a passenger train derailed and Atoll in French Polynesia. It triggered a Britain’s Kitty McKane
If we don’t get off our crashed into Brétigny-sur-Orge station,
just south of Paris, at 137km/h.
protest from the New Zealand govern-
ment, which sent HMNZS Canterbury
to win her fifth
Wimbledon singles
bums now, we’re going One of the carriages mowed down and Otago to the atoll amid calls for a final on July 6.
DFree_shutterstock

to lose this planet passengers waiting on the platform,

crowded at the start of a holiday week-
nuclear-free Pacific.
France abandoned atmospheric testing
Lenglen was world No. 1 from 1921 to
1926, winning eight Grand Slam singles
Harrison Ford end. It was later cited as France’s worst and moved to underground trials in 1974. titles in all – six at Wimbledon. She was a
Indiana Jones star and long-time environmental activist, on France2 rail crash since the 1988 Gare de Lyon This was also criticised, as shafts were symbol of national pride and hailed La
accident, in which 56 people died. shown to have cracked the land, prompt- Divine (The Goddess) by the French press.
We’re not dealing with artificial In 2019, it was revealed that several ing fears that radioactive material could Coached by her father, she introduced an
months before the accident the authority escape and contaminate the ocean. aggression traditionally belonging to men’s
intelligence but artificial thinking, in charge of Ile-de-France rail infrastruc- Tests continued on Mururoa, about 780 tennis, calmed her nerves with cognac
which blend facts with Anglo- ture had reported an insufficient number miles south-east of Tahiti, until 1995. during changeovers, and was one of the
of maintenance staff, but this had not led France did not establish a compensation first women to wear more practical clothes
American upper-class ideology to tangible action. SNCF was found board for civilian and military victims of on court. Lenglen died in 1938 aged 39.
guilty of manslaughter and unintentional radiation-linked cancers until 2010, but The official cause of death was pernicious
Emmanuel Todd injury in 2022, and fined €300,000. relatively few claims have been successful. anaemia but this has since been contested.
Anthropologist and historian on ChatGPt in Marianne
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Letters 17

The Connexion letters pages are UK pensions in France.

sponsored by What can and can’t you do? w w w. b l e v i n s f r a n k s . c o m

Wildfire rules
YOUR online article ‘France
Electric car debate More ground rules for house guests
wildfires: MPs vote to hike FOLLOWING recent debate on this page about electric cars, I 8 Help around the house - without being 14 Do not assume that your children’s WHEN we first moved to the
fines for not clearing your wish to add a few points. asked. Few subjects are more litigious. foibles are a delight to absolutely all. If, Riviera in 2007, we suddenly
If you see your host peeling potatoes to pluck one example from many, they
garden’ is disturbing reading. I agree that in some cities they are a great idea. Montpellier, or washing up, don’t say: “Can I help” eat spaghetti bolognaise with their became very popular, especially
I live in Occitanie (one of the though, has an excellent tram service. Park on the outskirts and, Don’t say anything. Grab a peeler or hands and then run those hands up and with people we barely knew.
dishcloth and do it. On the other hand, down white walls, this does not qualify
regions concerned) on a heavily for a moderate parking fee, all car passengers have free (electric) don’t go bonkers. Vacuuming when as endearing. And, if you have to pre- Even guests we love do not
forested valley-side. tram travel for the day. Now that is a good system. there is no indication that your hosts pare special food in the hosts’ mixer, always realise we may have
were intending to will be taken as a remember to put the lid on the thing.
My ‘garden’ – 1.4 hectares of While lithium batteries have improved the efficiency of the criticism. 15 Leave only cleanliness behind you... other things to do than run
steep, thickly wooded terrain – battery, it is still a loss (10-20%, depending on temperature). 9 Fit in. Check which are yours hosts’ especially, of course, in the bathrooms around after visitors.
as well as those of my neigh- Delivering the power to charge the battery incurs more losses habitual chairs, places at table and and lavatory. And remember - foreign These rules work for us:
times in the bathroom - and work WCs cannot always take as much toilet
bours, are thick with (to quote depending on the distances involved. So if you charge the battery around them. This is their home. paper as you would like. 1. Never invite anyone unless
your article) “excess grass, dead from a coal-fired power station, as in Germany and Poland, the Never forget that. 16 Don’t do texting, BlackBerrying or the whole family agrees to it;
10 Don’t criticise. Living at close checking of emails than is necessary.
leaves, tree stumps, dead CO2 created is much greater. In France, most of our power is quarters with your hosts will obviously Any more is fabulously rude. You are 2. Strongly suggest guests stay
branches, shrubs, and live nuclear, so the situation is less dire. underline just how imperfect are their on holiday. Send postcards. no longer than two nights;
habits, house and taste in tablewear 17 Avoid certain topics of conversation.
branches that extend from tree Finally, the weight of these batteries is such that if we all go when compared with your own. Particulary annoying, it seems, is dis- 3. Unless we suggest otherwise,
to tree”. You say these must all electric, some bridges and multi-storey car parks will have to be Mentioning this - even in tones of cussion of British television series, of we expect guests to amuse
be cleared or cut back for 200m. replaced or strengthened. helpful advice - is never a good idea. exchange rates (if you live abroad, it’s themselves, do their own tour-
Just say everything is fantastic, and not news that the pound is weak) and
By doing so, we would quite Sadly, decisions are made by city-dwellers. Range is important leave it at that. of British house prices. In general, we ing, rent their own cars and
simply destroy the forest and to most people and charging points have a long way to go. 11 Keep family or marital disputes to don’t want to know that, if you sold leave us alone when we need
yourselves. your place in Hemel Hempstead, you
totally transform the landscape. I remember politicians telling us we needed to switch to diesel 12 On the other hand, excessive shows could still buy in Portugal. to get our work done;
Are there any provisions in and, as soon as I did, they changed their mind. After problems of affection can also be troublesome. No 18 Don’t whistle in the morning. This 4. We expect guests to consult
one likes people snogging on his sofa - might indicate that you are happily on
the legislation to exempt wood- with a PDF filter which took out my turbocharger and cost me or overhearing vigorous sex in the holiday - but it infuriates a surprising us before they schedule meals,
ed terrain from these apparent- €3,000, I am back on petrol! The best Crit’Air status for a modern shower while he is waiting outside number of people. Near silence until well either at home or elsewhere, or
ly insensitive, draconian rules? diesel is 2, my petrol is 1. to shave. Believe me on that one. after breakfast is a much-prixed quality. invite others to join us;
David BENNETT, by email Trevor JONES, Hérault Following our article in the June Connexion about house guests, 5. If they are not going to turn
Alan Ingram from Lot writes: “I forget the source but many years up when and where expected,
Editor’s note: We suggest that
Let off steam or share a point ago I cut out an article called ‘How not to be the guest from we ask guests to let us know as
you ask your mairie as to wheth- Share of view on an aspect of French life
Email: letters@connexionfrance.com or write to: hell’ (extract above). I placed a framed copy in the guest bath- soon as possible;
er these obligations apply, and 6. No using kitchen, sports or
exactly what surface area is your The Connexion, Le Grande Bretagne,
30 av. Grande Bretagne, 98000 Monaco
room. It not only amuses visitors but has successfully smoothed
relationships. Readers may wish to do the same.” Email other items without asking;
affected, as it depends on local
rules. Please note that typi­cally, views! Please include your name and department of France
or country where you live. Letters used may be edited
news@connexionfrance.com to request a copy of the full list. 7. Accidents can happen, but
we expect guests not to lose,
land situated 200m from woods for space and sense; the Editor’s decision is final. AFTER living in France since 2000, I apply the following five rules: misplace or damage our keys
can be affected, but the actual Letters received may be used online and/or in print. 1. Only buy a one-bedroom property; or any of our other possessions.
obligations then usually concern
a 50m perimeter around con-
structions (eg. your house).
Beware bank charges 2. If people overstay, do not invite again;
3. Restrict visitors to three days. Like fish, they go off!
4. Once dropped off at the airport, disconnect phone;
In short, we expect our guests
to show common courtesy, as
we would with them. Some
I CANNOT be the only reader Next, I went to a mutual bank. 5. Give them jobs to do. Or, just don’t invite them! guests are never invited again.
Robot mowers shocked to find my French
bank charging me for payments
There I was met by charm,
efficiency and an absence of
Richard CLARKE, Lozère Julia NOLET, by email

dodge tip ban (my pension) into my account

every month since January
the offending charges. Other
charges, far lower than I was
TLS visa nightmare: no toilets, long queue
I READ with interest your 2022. With various incidental used to, would not kick in for I CONCUR with all the prev- and the place was packed. We I had no option) the car park
online article about Rennes payments, this amounts to six months. I hope this caution- ious correspondence about the waited a further four hours. operator to request additional
banning residents from dumping several hundred euros. ary tale may be useful. issues with the TLS websites. I could not see any toilets time on the same credit card.
their lawn clippings at local tips I spoke to my adviser, who Meg FENN, Tarn In addition, readers should so asked a member of staff. We were eventually processed
from next year. referred it to senior manage- note our experience at the She told me there were none and got our visas, but we were
There is a solution: get an auto- ment. They responded two Editor’s note: The UK has Manchester site when we for public use, nor could she severely dehydrated and very
mower. You will save time by months later, citing post-Brexit re­mained in the EU’s Sepa bank- turned up for our appointment direct me to any toilets in uncomfortable until we were
not cutting the grass yourself, rules. A ‘sweetener’ was a pay- ing zone, which usually means in March. the vicinity. able to leave the building and
and the cuttings are so small ment of €36 into my account. no fees for receiving transfers, My husband (79 this year) I had previously paid for four locate toilets in a local hotel.
there is never a need to take I inquired at another bank if but if a Sepa member is not in and I queued for 35 minutes hours of car parking. When I gave feedback to TLS about
them to the tip. They just they had similar charges and the EU/EEA, then ‘international’ in the sleet outside the building we exceeded this time, I had the centre and lack of toilets
disappear into the grass. was told to return in 10 days fees can be applied if banks wish. in a long queue of students. to telephone (use of mobiles is but never heard anything back.
Ross ANDERSON, by email after making an appointment. Some do this and some do not. Eventually we were allowed in prohibited inside the centre but SD, by email

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Ex-Barclays customer “We bought a shower head with when so many of the jours fériés “The French seem to have little   
in France struggles to pause button. Allows a trickle are réligieux” GB regard for ancient monuments.
through to stop water getting I was appalled when I visited
   
transfer funds “Have them both and appeal
“Barclays made the whole cold but cuts amount when to everyone” NT the Dolmen of Bagneux to find  

closure episode very difficult. washing or shampooing” VC the entire site surrounded by
modern housing” AF 

It is probably the most uncar- “If you have a new fosse put in, Poll finds French tip less
ing, nonsensical organisation install an underground water re- than Anglophone countries   
    
I’ve ever come across” CO cuperation system. We have one Survey finds 30% of moped
which we seem to be using earlier “I understand why they don’t users have watched TV on

     
“Cost me a ferry ride back and tip – they expect workers to 
hotel for nine days to get my and more each year for watering phones while driving   
be paid properly!” PB
SIRET 48003796900015

money moved” AH veg” DW “It’s called natural selection”

“Service is always included –
“Plenty of warning given! Why by law. Tips are tips, not the
wait until last minute?” MM Grenoble mayor suggests server’s wages” JH Lower estate agent fees to
religious bank holidays be 4%, report recommends
Government issues advice replaced by secular ones Menhirs moved to make “Too many on gravy train!” KE
on reducing water use “Whatever, as long as they way for Mr Bricolage “1-2% in the UK – what’s wrong
“Perhaps farmers should be don’t cut them!” CPJ “Mr Bricolage is a rip off with that? Especially as most
made to stop watering crops in “I’d like to understand how I’m anyway” JR are rubbish here in France” PG
the day and do it at night” IH supposed to comprehend laïcité “It’s just a 20m wall” Paris360 “Notaire fees are high too” JD www.skyinfrance.co.uk
 18 Your Questions connexionfrance.com The
TheConnexion
Connexion Xxxx
July 2020
2023

Q& A How much does it cost to

Readers’
questions
answered insure a dog in France?
Send your queries about life in France to Liv Rowland HOW much can you expect to pay to insure
at questions@connexionfrance.com. Answers here your dog against vets’ bills in France? I live
here and am interested in permanent pet
were supported by research from Martin Greenacre insurance for our puppy. C.H.

How do you register a used car? IT IS not obligatory to insure your dog in France.
In fact, only around 5% of pets here are insured,
and this is despite there being some 15 million pet

Photo: Shutterstock_ Pressmaster

WHAT is the procedure for registering make your application. You must log in to cats and 7.5 million dogs in the country. However,
a second-hand car bought privately in immatriculation.ants.gouv.fr using the it might be a good idea if you want to avoid unwel-
France? M.M. FranceConnect button (this requires log-in come surprises down the line.
details for a partner site such as ameli.fr or The cost of pet insurance varies greatly, depend-
WHEN you buy a car in France, you have impots.gouv.fr. If you cannot do this and/or ing on several factors, including the age and breed
one month to register the vehicle, and this have never worked in France or been in its of the animal, its medical history, and how com-
applies whether it is new or used. health service, you will need to pay a pro- prehensive the coverage is.
This means applying for a certificat fessional to register the car for you). This Basic plans are the cheapest but usually only Most French pet owners do not have insurance
d’immatriculation (car registration docu- procedure can only be done online. cover fees resulting from illnesses or accidents.
ment), commonly known as a carte grise. Select Acheter ou recevoir un véhicule More comprehensive plans might include cover details of the contract. Reimbursement works the
If you bought the car from a garage, it will d’occasion, Nouvelle demande, L’imma­tric- for additional veterinary exams, medicine, vaccines same way for pets as it does for humans when they
often take care of this for you. How­ever, ulation and Acheter ou recevoir un véhicule. and euthanasia. visit the doctor in France.
even if you bought the car privately from You will need the car’s licence plate While basic plans are likely to pay for 50% to 70% You must pay the full cost of the visit to the vet,
an individual, you can delegate the task to number, the old carte grise (barred, with of the cost of treatment, more expensive contracts and your insurance company will transfer a
a professional who is authorised to register the previous owner’s signature) and the can refund 70% to 100%. percentage of the amount to your bank account
vehicles – see tinyurl.com/cartegrisemap. code de cession, and you will be asked to Depending on the level of coverage, the monthly in the following days, once you have submitted
While this can make your life easier, enter your personal information. cost can be anywhere from €10 to €80, according a request for reimbursement.
professionals are free to set their own The price depends on the car and your to price comparison website Réassurez-moi. There are several websites that allow you to
prices for doing this and it should not department, as it includes both national You might be able to add extra options for an compare prices, including Réassurez-moi and Les
be overly difficult to do yourself. and local taxes. You can estimate the cost additional monthly amount, such as surgery or Furets. Many insurance firms, though, only accept
Before you start, the seller must have at tinyurl.com/cartegriseprice. sterilisation costs, and opting for a higher excess dogs aged between three months and 10 years.
completed a déclaration de cession (declar- You will be invited to download a might reduce your monthly payments. It is important to add that, should your dog cause
ation of transfer) on the website of the provisional registration certificate (valid Insurance companies also impose a ceiling on the an injury or damage to the property of somebody
ANTS agency that issues cartes grises. for one month), which you should print amount they will pay out (usually between €1,000 outside your household, this is covered by the
The seller should provide you with a code off and keep with you while waiting to and €2,500 per year) so it is important to check the responsabilité civile element in your home insurance.
de cession, which you will need to use to receive your carte grise in the post.

What am I supposed to do with my livret de famille? Is it still possible to install

It is useful for certain admi­ death took place. If this is out-
home insulation for €1?
I RECEIVED a livret de famille as part
of my welcome package to becoming nistrative procedures, such as side France, the request must
a French citizen. I have not done registering a child at school. be posted to Service central
anything with it. I assume it is to record You are legally required to d’état civil, 11, rue de la THERE are numerous department warned resi-
births, marriages and deaths but is it update it as soon as possible Maison Blanche, 44941 adverts for €1 insulation. dents that cold-callers had
just for me and my (British) husband – or with changes to l’état civil Nantes Cedex 09. Is the government still been pretending to be call-
also siblings and his adult children? A.M. (personal information) of You can request more financing this or are ing from the council.
Photo: Shutterstock_ emasali stock

people recorded inside – information by emailing these scams? T.B. Some residents “received
A LIVRET de famille is a booklet that notably marriage, change of courrier.scec@diplomatie. a voice message or email
people usually receive upon marriage or, marriage regime, divorce, a gouv.fr. LOFT insulation costing encouraging them to sign
for unmarried couples, the birth of their birth, adoption, death, or The booklet only records just €1 was an offer that was up to insulate their attic for
first child. Foreign citizens who are married name change. information related to available from firms that €1”, it said, adding that it
or have children will be given one on Changes must be done by parents or their children, so had signed a charter with had reported the scam.
obtaining French nationality. the mairie – you should there is no need to add the Ecology Ministry. It was You can report a scam at
It contains proof of key aspects of your come with proof of any information about siblings abolished in 2021 after con- internet-signalement.gouv.fr
family’s history – in particular, ‘extracts’ change. In case of changing your name, or other members of the family. troversies over ag­gres­sive or by calling 0 805 805 817.
of relevant marriage, birth and death you can request a new livret. Nor are children from a previous relation- telemarketing and poorly If you have a doubt as to
certificates (an official will copy the Updates should be made at the mairie ship included, unless they are adopted by executed work. whether an offer is genuine,
information into it and stamp it). of the town where the birth, marriage or the other partner. You are right to be caut- or simply want free, impar-
ious as the energy renov- tial advice, you should con-
ation industry is fertile tact a France Rénov service.

Can a dentist refuse a patient even in an emergency? ground for scammers.

Energy renovation com-
panies are forbidden from
Find a local information
centre at france-renov.gouv.
fr/services-france-renov or
OUR dentist has retired and has no The trouble is “there is no legal definition “A toothache might feel very painful, but cold-calling potential cus- call a France Rénov adviser
replacement. We have tried several of an emergency,” said Dr Daniel Mirisch, sometimes you can be given pain medic- tomers, so if you are con- at 0808 800 700. You can
dentists in the area but all say they general secretary of the Ordre National des ation, meaning the issue can wait two or tacted over the phone, you also contact an Adil hous-
are not taking on new patients. Chirugiens-Dentistes professional body. three days,” he said. It is likely to be con- should not agree to under- ing information service
What happens if we need urgent “It is very subjective. For the patient, it is sidered urgent if painkillers have no effect. take work of any kind. (tinyurl.com/adil-find).
dental treatment? S.Q. always an emergency, which is why it is up “If it is an emergency and they can take Guidance from the Help towards insulation is
to the emergency services regulator or the the patient, they will. But it is up to each Finance Ministry says: available via schemes such
IT IS becoming increasingly common for dentist to judge,” he said. Examples of emer- dentist to evaluate whether it can wait.” “Be particularly wary of as MaPrimeRénov’ and the
people, particularly in rural France, to gencies include a cracked tooth resulting in Even if it is the next day or later in the businesses claiming to éco-prêt à taux zéro (interest-
struggle to find a dentist (see page 21). bleeding, but not always a lost filling. week, a dentist will take an extra patient in have a mandate from a free loan). You can estimate
The good news is that, while dentists can “Pain is often the primary criteria. A an emergency, he added. public organisation, as the amount you could
ordinarily refuse to take on new patients, cracked tooth may not be pretty, but we If you have an emergency on a weekend public services will never receive at france-renov.gouv.
they are forbidden by law from denying need to ask if it has health consequences.” or bank holiday and cannot reach a surgery solicit you, whether online, fr/aides/simulation. Energy
patients who require urgent care. Usually, a The dentist may also agree to see you, but or dental centre, it is possible to dial 15 over the phone, or at your suppliers also offer schemes
dentist will block out time in their sched- not immediately, said Union Dentaire trade (for medical emergencies) and you should home.” In March, the Ain to help towards such work.
ule to deal with emergencies. union spokesman Clément Neveu. be directed to an on-call dentist.

FUTURE QUESTIONS How do I pay tolls on

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address on my driving licence
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 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Practical 19

US/UK pension top-up

John Kitching, a

Make sense of director of French Law

Consultancy Limited,
answers a reader query
We explain what French
residents can do to help Do I need to register marriage in France?
qualify for a pension Q: DO WE have to register a ment in the UK to change
in the UK or the US marriage regime when making your marriage regime for
our French wills? Our notaire French assets. If so, then
FOR many people, moving to says that we do and it seems that would need to be
France is a long-standing dream quite costly. We married in the registered in France for it to
based on the kind of lifestyle on UK in 1991 and have been take effect. If the property
offer. Practical details such as resident in France since 2012. in question were in the sole
the impact on any future state name of one party, the title
pension can be secondary, but it A: IF YOU are both British deed would need to be up-
is important to consider such nationals, validly married in dated to record the regime
issues as there are steps you can the UK, then your marriage change, incurring significant
take to boost this from abroad. is already registered at the taxes and fees.
In particular, people who have UK General Register Office, There are rules about what
previously worked in the UK and is recognised as valid in French regime a UK mar-
and wish to top up their UK Our image was drawn France. Article 202-2 of the riage falls under. However,
state pension from France for The Connexion by French Civil Code confirms the notaire might be recom-
should be aware of the options. artist Perry Taylor. that the marriage is valid mending a change to adopt

Image: perrytaylor.fr
In 2016, the UK introduced For more of his work if it conforms to the legal a regime of communauté
a new state pension scheme. visit perrytaylor.fr requirements of the country universelle, which would
As a result, the ‘full’ standard in which it took place. allow a spouse to automat-
pension rose but so did the The British Embassy in ically inherit tax-free on the
required length of National Gateway site does not work, you 20 years, £18,000 over 10 years, reduce a ‘penalty’ that is usually Paris confirmed that there death of the other spouse.
Insurance (NI) contributions – can apply for a pension forecast and £9,100 over five years.” applied as part of a French pen- is no need to register a In this case, any children
from 30 to 35 qualifying years. by sending a form (see tinyurl. You can do your own calcul- sion calculation if you have not UK marriage in France for will eventually inherit from
Note that some years’ contri- com/SP-forecast) or by calling ation as to the potential benefit contributed to the French sys- validity. However, they noted the surviving parent.
butions may not count if you 0044 191 218 3600, Monday to by reviewing your current state tem for the appropriate period that if you need a copy of To set this up, you would
were ‘opted out’ via an employ- Friday, 8:00 to 18:00. pension forecast payment (see (41.5 years or more, depending the marriage certificate for typically expect to pay a
er’s or other pension scheme. There is more about paying how to obtain this earlier) and on age). In this case your inheritance tax arrange- registration tax of €125 plus
Many workers were eligible NI from abroad at: tinyurl.com/ the cost of the amount of years French state pension is likely to ments, a notaire might a tax at 0.715%, levied on
for extra amounts via the pay-abroad. You can apply to you would need to ‘purchase’ to be slightly higher than it would request a copy with an half the value of any jointly-
Additional State Pension, also pay by sending an CF83 form raise this to the maximum new have been otherwise, once UK Apos­tille certificate of owned real estate that
known as the State Second to HMRC (visit tinyurl.com/ state pension sum, currently state pension contributions are legalisation from the would eventually pass in full
Pension, or SERPS, but this has CF83form). Applications are £203.85/week, when you reach accounted for. Foreign Office. This costs to the other spouse, plus a
now stopped. You need to have currently taking eight months state pension age (currently 66). Some other countries have around £30 to £150. notaire fee for drafting.
contributed for at least 10 years to process (visit tinyurl.com/ One reader explains his route similar systems. It is also possible, but rare, Automatic marriage
to claim any pension. hmrc-howlong) but HMRC through the process: “The gov- that you signed a docu- regime changes: See page 5
The full new UK state pension takes note of the date the form ernment site is very helpful. Does a spouse inherit their
Call +44 (0) 16 63 74 54 88 for a free initial consultation.
payable (this year) is £203.85 was received with regard to “It showed how much state husband/wife’s state pension? frenchlawconsultancy.com
per week. payment deadlines. pension will be paid from There are circumstances where
As part of the change above, Once accepted, payment pension age, 67 for me. an element of a spouse’s state
it is still possible to fill in gaps methods include a UK bank “It also provided a forecast as pension may be inherited.
in your contributions between
tax years April 2006 and April
cheque or a transfer from a
French or UK bank. For more
to the level of pension that could
be achieved if I contributed more,
The UK government has a
tool to check this at gov.uk/ Question from
2016, whether those gaps are
due to time spent abroad or
on how to pay visit
tinyurl.com/hmrc-how-pay.
either through continued work
or by back-buying years.
state-pension-through-partner.
a second-home
career breaks – for example,
to care for children.
For those who live in France,
paying voluntary NI contribu-
“I could then make a simple
calculation – it would cost me
What about for Americans?
Ten years of contributions are
owner...
The original deadline for pay- tions can be a valuable option if around £4,500 to back-buy six also required to qualify for US
ing voluntary NI contributions you are unlikely to make up for years (I pay level three rates). Social Security benefits, but
for this period was April 5 this the missing years by returning “The increase in state pension due to a US/France agreement, Owning a second home in France
year, but this has been extended to work in the UK. I will receive by doing this those who do not have enough Photo: Shutterstock.com_E. Spek
to April 2025.
After that you will be able to
Usually, to do this you must
have lived in the UK previously
effectively means that I am in
‘profit’ from age 71 onwards.”
credits might be able to qualify
for a partial benefit by including
UK car insurance for long stays in France?
fill in gaps only for the previous for at least three years or made There is no benefit to making French pension credits (for Q: WE NORMALLY come to France for about five months
six years (on a rolling basis at least three years of NI contri- voluntary contributions if you more, visit tinyurl.com/ with a UK-registered and insured car but our insurance
from 2025). butions, though years in the already have 35 years of quali- French-US-agreement). broker can no longer find a company that offers more than
Pension contribution years in EU can be taken into account as fying contributions. To be eligible to have your 90 days of cover a year in the EU. Do you have a solution?
the UK end on April 5 annually, long as you have been subject to French credits counted, you A: ALL UK car insurance policies provide minimum third-
corresponding to the UK finan- UK legislation at some point. Is the pension amount uprated? must usually have worked for party cover in Europe, usually for between 30 and 90 days
cial year, so, normally, as of now The UK state pensions of EU- at least one-and-a-half years per year. It is sometimes possible to negotiate an extension
you could top up the years from What does it cost? based recipients are uprated under the US system. to this allowance but this is not usually standard.
2017-18 and onwards. If you are also working abroad regularly, currently according The Social Security Administ-
and worked in the UK immed- to a ‘triple lock’, meaning they ration says: “When a US benefit It is, however, possible to find deals tailored for people
How do you check your record? iately before leaving, you pay rise each April by the highest becomes payable as a result of who spend longer periods in Europe. For example, Stuart
You can check your NI record class two contributions, at £3.45 of average earnings, consumer counting both US and French Collins & Co offers policies specifically for UK cars that are
and see how many ‘qualifying per week at 2023/24 rates. price rises, or 2.5%. social security credits, we deter- used in the EU as well as the UK.
years’ you have at tinyurl.com/ Otherwise, you pay class three In countries without a pension mine an initial benefit based on Saga also offers cover in 30 European countries, includ-
NI-record and see your pension rates, currently £17.45 per week. deal with the UK, eg. Canada, your US earnings as if you com- ing France, for an unlimited period of time with its Saga
forecast at tinyurl.com/ If you pay before April 2025 pensions are frozen from when pleted your entire career under Select and Saga Plus policies. However, it only accepts
pension-forecast. to make up for gaps between a person moves there. the US system. clients over the age of 50. Liverpool Victoria offers clients
You will need a Government April 6, 2006, and April 5, 2017, Under the terms of the “The US then reduces this
the possibility to have the same level of cover as they have
Gate­way user ID and password you will pay the lower 2022/23 EU-UK Trade and Cooperation to reflect the fact that French
in the UK for 180 days in the EU. Sterling, meanwhile, has
which you can create with your rates: £3.15 for class two and Agreement, ‘pension aggrega- credits helped to make the
NI number, passport and a £15.85 for class three. tion’ continues between the benefit payable. The amount a deal for UK-registered cars that will be used in France,
smartphone. You will be direct- UK and EU. of the reduction will depend but it is mostly targeted at people moving here.
ed to download a government Is it worth doing? This means if you have not on the number of US credits: Even when EU cover is included, do check that the level
‘ID check’ app and then, at the A year’s voluntary contributions paid in at least 10 years of NI the more US credits, the small- of cover is the same when driving abroad as most provid-
appropriate stage, take a photo can boost payments by £5.29 a credits, then years paying into er the reduction.” ers offer third-party cover only unless you pay a fee
of the main passport page and week, or ap­proximately £275 per the French system can also be The US does not have a to upgrade.
a ‘selfie’. year, according to fi­nance site taken into account, so you scheme allowing voluntary It is worth noting that you do not need to carry a green
Finally, allow your phone Interactive Investor. may still be eligible for a UK top- up payments.
card (an internationally-recognised document proving you
to scan the microchip on your “Purcha­sing six years at a cost pension, although it will be Note that you are not
are insured to drive abroad) when driving in the EU.
passport cover by putting the of £4,945 [this is at the class reduced due to the limited required to pay into US Social
phone on top of your UK three rate, it is £913 for class number of UK qualifying years. Security while working for a Finally, another option is to leave a car in France to use at
passport and moving it up and two] could translate to addition- Equally, years paid into the French employer. your second home, with French plates and French insurance.
down until the scan starts. If the al state pension of £36,000 over UK state pension system can Go to ssa.gov/international.
 20 Language / Finance connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Less is often more when it Exercise can put you on

the fast track to fluency
comes to learning French by Gillian Harvey

Photo: Bignai_Shutterstock
WHAT if I told you that getting
better at French was as easy as
Concentrate on wordreference.com via the speaker riding a bike? Or, at least, made
icon at the top of each page. easier if you ride a bike.
mastering the basics Studies have shown that
rather than being 2. Numbers are also vital but aerobic exercise, such as walk-
Listen to lessons on a walk
you need a lot of practice until ing, cycling or swimming.
overwhelmed by they trip easily off your tongue. while practising vocabulary or moving about during the
the bigger picture, Stop counting in English and can improve learning. class – perhaps to carry out
get used to doing so in French. As many can testify, children conversations with different
says Nick Inman Get one to 100 off pat and any seem to pick up languages individuals. Many teachers will
special numbers you will need. more easily than adults. As we be receptive to something new,
YOU MIGHT think that age, we lose some of the plas- and it might make a sedentary
someone either speaks French 3. Knowing the time (24-hour ticity in the area of our brain class more fun for all.
or they do not, but the truth is clock) and date are similarly used for language acquisition. If you are someone who is
not so straightforward. essential for a whole range However, there is good evid- more inclined to coffee than
It is not the whole caboodle of practical purposes. Repeat ence to suggest exercise can cardio before a lesson, the idea
Photo: Jacob Lund_Shutterstock

or nothing. The most useful them to yourself or into the help alter our brain chemistry, of pounding the treadmill
tip I can give anyone about mirror several times a day making it better able to receive followed by studying verb
language learning is to decide until it becomes instinctive. and retain new information. tenses might be overwhelming.
what you really need to say and For those of us used to sitting Why not incorporate exercise
don’t go beyond that just yet. 4. Letters of the alphabet are in a classroom or at a desk to into your home study during
It is the same for native not quite the same in French study, the idea of learning while the week instead? Make notes
speakers. You might get the and some can be confusing – we move might seem alien, during your regular lesson and
Know how to communicate what you are looking for in shops

“
impression they are all maestros E and I, G and J, for example. but there are plenty of painless revise these in your own time.
but most people never master At the very least, you should ways to get started. Perhaps record your weekly
the finer points of obscure con- be able to spell your surname, If you are learning at home verbs or crib sheet on to an
jugations. They use language to street name and the name of via an app, podcast or CDs, it audio file, then pop on the
get stuff done day to day. your village or town. should be easy to mix exercise headphones and go for a jog.
You should do the same. Cut with language learning. Try Remember that your brain
out all the surplus and focus on 5. Consider the question ‘How If you can say a little with confidence popping on headphones and will benefit from a workout
the essential. are you?’ Your answer will oil going for a walk while studying just as much as the rest of your
Language lessons at school the wheels of conversation. rather than a lot in a mental fug, you your verbs, or practising your body. Challenge yourself with a
generally take the opposite
approach. They expect you to
Be able to express your mental
and physical state and to ask
will soon see yourself improving aural comprehension while
cruising on your exercise bike.
word or number game. Puzzles
such as cryptic crosswords help
be able to translate “they might someone else about theirs. If your French lessons take to enhance memory, which
have been able to win now” (in 7. Knowing how to give weather, ways of describing your place in a class or group, should keep your brain in
the past subjunctive) just in case 6. Learn the conventions of directions to your house is particular car or your boiler – however, incorporating a better shape for learning.
you need it. What is the point? conversation. Ça va? is the similarly important. Work out you can acquire on the hoof. physical element requires a Studying something new,
Some teachers expect their universal ice-breaking question the simplest way to give these little more creativity. taking music lessons or learn-
students to recite lists of irreg- which has many subtle mean- and try them out on someone 10. Finally, learn how to let Try spending the 20 minutes ing to cook different dishes are
ular verbs. Forget it. Learn the ings depending on the context French to ensure you are someone know when you beforehand taking part in other ways we can help our
items you are going to use. and tone of voice. However, it making sense. have not understood. ‘Could high-intensity exercise, such as brain to become more receptive
Concentrate on being perfect can be broadly thought of as: you say that again, please?’ running, walking uphill/stairs, to new information.
in the following points and you “How are things?” 8. When it comes to shopping, is a useful phrase to have up skipping or speed-walking. Finally, do not dismiss the
need nothing more for now. Similarly, you will want to be you will invariably require your sleeve. A study in 2017 concluded impact that stress can have on
able to ask a guest tu veux…? some practical phrases to locate If you can say a little with that doing such exercise before our minds and bodies.
1. First, learn how to be able to (do you want...?) and under- items and to check prices. ‘I’m confidence rather than a lot in studying a language could Finding something to help
present yourself to a stranger – stand the various answers to looking for..,’ ‘how much is..?’ a mental fug, you will soon see improve the speed at which keep anxiety to a minimum,
give your occupation, address, that question. and ‘I’d like a refund for this…’ yourself improving. Only then new vocabulary is learnt by 20%. such as yoga, meditation or
telephone number, date of Merci, for instance, some- are useful places to start. is it time to move on. If you feel able to, you could taking walks in the country-
birth, using the correct times sounds as if it means That’s when to start learning also talk to your teacher about side, could keep your mental
vocabulary. ‘yes, thank you’ when it is 9. Other basic vocabulary – lists of obscure irregular verbs, taking one-to-one lessons cogs in tip-top condition for all
Check your pronunciation on actually a ‘no’. including colours, words for the not before. while out walking together, those subjunctive conjugations.

Civil partnerships pay off but there can still be hitches

the other hand, is exempt from inheritance tax. ever, recognise French pacs arrangements.
Money Matters However there are also some important differ- Bear in mind that although a marriage
ences between a pacs union and traditional between a French national and a foreigner can
Christopher Davenport marriage that readers should know about. at times fast-track French nationality, a pacs
of Kentingtons explains. First, pacs partners do not automatically will not do the same, although it might help to
inherit their other half ’s estate. This means they obtain a French residency card.
kentingtons.com will need to make a will to guarantee the surviv- There are good financial reasons for a cohabit-
ing partner will inherit it. Note too that those ing couple to consider a pacs, but there is one
Photo: goodluz_Shutterstock

A PACTE civil de solidarité (usually abbreviated married under a séparation des biens regime will potential downside that would only concern
to pacs) is effectively the French equivalent of a also need to make a will, and indeed we recom- those with significant property assets.
civil partnership. It can be made between part- mend that all couples do this. It could be that combining property assets into
ners of the same or different sex. Secondly, a pacs partner is not entitled to one household means you become liable to
Statistics show that pacs is almost as popular as receive their partner’s pension, unlike the situa- France’s IFI (impôt sur la fortune immobilière)
marriage in France. Excluding 2020, which was tion for married couples. property wealth tax, whereas as two individual
distorted due to Covid restrictions, over the past Pacs couples count as one financial household Other general points worth considering households you were not.
five years there have been around 200,000 new one member of the couple who earns signifi- include that it is possible for just one person to Nevertheless, this negative on its own should
civil partnerships registered annually in France, cantly more than the other, because the total end a pacs. In other words, there is no need for not necessarily outweigh the overall positives.
compared to 230,000 marriages. income of the two will be split equally through both members of a couple to agree to it. As ever, a lot depends on individual circum-
From a financial perspective, those in a civil the tax bands. If there are children in the house- A pacs is regarded as a simple contract stances, as each household profile is different.
partnership benefit from many of the same hold, the tax bill will again be reduced. between two people. As such, it is not recog- It is worth giving thought to current and future
advantages as a married couple. The second main advantage concerns inherit- nised everywhere, whereas marriages do tend assets, debts and earnings and how the members
A pacs is a way for couples to become one ance tax. For unrelated people, as would be the to be almost universally respected. The US, for of the couple intend to fund household expenses.
financial household (foyer fiscal) without actual- case for a cohabiting (non-married and non- example, does not recognise pacs and thus pacs It is usually best to enter into a specific agree-
ly getting married. pacs) couple, this is a hefty 60% tax due after a couples are treated no differently there to part- ment on these points and to obtain independent
This is particularly interesting when there is small allowance of €1,594. A pacs partner, on ners who ‘just’ live together. The UK does, how- financial advice.
 French living
Food Wine Homes Gardens Interviews Events FRENCH NEWS IN ENGLISH SINCE 2002

GARDENS OF
DISTINCTION
Superb Open Gardens in the
Dordogne to visit in July

Cider making
in Cotentin
Top tips for
cooking with
garlic
2 Cycling connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

Wheels on fire: hop on

to experience France’s
passion for the bicycle
Samantha David explores the French obsession for two-wheeled transport, a love story that
goes back to the nineteenth century and continues today, spanning tourism, sport and leisure

C
ycling is a serious passion

Photo: left, OT Touraine; inset, Château de Bosc

in France, not only as a
high-level competitive sport,
but as a leisure activity.
Seventy percent of the French
population own a bicycle and 65% claim
to have ridden one within the last year.
There are 40,000 ‘self-service’ bikes for
hire in cities, and 2.8 million bikes were
sold in France in 2021 (10% of which
were electric). Eight percent of owners
do le vélotaf. Taf is short for travail à
faire, which means regularly pedalling
to work.
In the same way that at the start of the
twentieth century aeronauts across
Europe were competing to invent the
aeroplane, everyone was finding new
ways with two wheels from the 1800s.
In Germany, Karl Drais invented a
vélocipède (two wheels, one saddle, no
pedals, aka the draisienne), which was
demonstrated in Paris in 1818 to a
crowd of 3,500 people. They were not
impressed. In 1861, however, Pierre
Michaux and his son, Ernest, invented
pedals fixed to the front wheel, and
suddenly cycling became all the rage.
In 1867, the first cycle race was organised winery or two. Dedicated, well-signpost- Above: Leisurely ped- 27-29, 2023, will include leisure, sport, including a beautiful one with a horse’s
from the Avenue des Champs-Élysées to ed cycle routes, and maps to show you alling through Loire tourism, competitions and vélotaf. Forty head. The owners display their passion
the Château de Versailles, and the first the way, are available from tourist offices, country; and inset thousand square metres of exhibition for transport with another museum
women’s race took place in Bordeaux. and you can hire bikes with carriers for left, a reminder of space will encompass demos, sales and devoted to motorbikes, plus two fighter
When they seized power in 1870, the babies and toddlers. With hire and repair how we used to get even vélo polo – yes, a polo match played planes in the grounds (a MIG and a
far-left Commune of Paris more or less shops all along the routes, plenty of elec- around on two wheels, on bicycles. BMX 2022 world champion Mirage). And yes, you can touch them!
did away with what it regarded as the tric bikes available, plus safe lock-ups at at the Musée du Vélo Sylvain André will be there too. Plus there is a museum for children
‘bourgeois’ sport of cycling. In the UK at night, cycling holidays are increasingly et de la Moto in Corsica is hosting a cycling festival this themed around the fables of Jean de la
this time, the penny-farthing was popular. More information is available Domazan (Gard) autumn from 27-29 October, for VTT Fontaine. Once you’ve seen all that, you
launched, followed in 1880 by the ‘safety’ about these and other beautiful routes (mountain bike) lovers. The island has can wander around the grounds admiring
bicycle, which had a chain connecting the at francevelotourisme.com (also available 220km of dedicated bike trails, and this the contemporary art, or force yourself to
pedals to the rear wheels. in English). year the French VTT World Cup will be enjoy a wine-tasting event. If you think
When the ‘safety’ bicycle was If you like the idea of cycling held during the festival, with nearly 400 you might never want to leave, they have
shown at the Exposition but do not know where to riders expected to take part. This is your the answer to that too. You can stay
Universelle de Paris in start, a festival could be chance to have a go, learn more about overnight in the 17th-century Moulin de
1889, suddenly bikes the answer. Ten thou- cycling sports, and meet the pros. Maître Cornille.

“
were back in fashion. sand visitors are The Loire Bike and Troc Festival on July The Musée Comtadin du Cycle in the
Peugeot and expected at Vélo 9-10, 2023, will have a slightly different, small village of Pernes-les-Fontaines near
Manufrance went Vélos, the Festival more laid-back vibe. It will be at Avignon is free. It has a nicely curated
into full-scale pro- du Vélo in Nantes Montbrison on Friday, and Chalmazel- collection of around 100 vieux clous
duction, and in (April 20-21, 2024). Jeansagnière on Saturday. There will be a (bone-shakers), including a penny-far-
1891, Michelin
entered the market
As well as showcas-
ing all the latest In summer, second-hand bike market, and cycle rides
for everyone, even for 2-6 years olds in
thing and a Pierre Michaux vélocipède
from 1869, making it well worth a detour.
with its Dunlop tyres.
All three manufactur-
developments, there
will be a market, talks, once the ski the shape of a trail to be ridden on draisi-
ennes no less. Afternoon demonstrations
The Musée du Vélo in Tournus (Saône-
et-Loire) has a collection of more than
ers encouraged the
development of long-
interviews, competi-
tions, demonstrations, lifts grind and free concerts will make this a conviv-
ial affair ideal for families.
200 cycles including a tricycle disguised
as a rocking horse. There is a space for
distance races as a way of
promoting their bicycles.
and chances to try out new
bikes. Entrance will be free. to a halt, If you love cycling as a spectator sport,
however, the Cyclist Film Festival is for
trying out unusual bikes like a penny-
farthing, and there is a whole room
Today the French are still in love with
le cyclisme. Strasbourg’s 600km of cycling
Reflecting the sign of the times, Lyon
is holding its first ever Vélo Festival over the steepest you. For two hours, a collection of amaz-
ing short films about cycling will be
devoted to the Tour de France.
Talking of which, the Musée du Vélo
paths across its entire urban area make it
the fourth most bike-friendly city in
the weekend of September 2-3, 2023,
with vélo pour tous on Saturday (tan- Alpine shown in 20 different French cities this
summer. Find tickets and details of dates
‘La Belle Echappée’ in La Fresnaye-sur-
Chédouet (Sarthe) has a complete history
Europe, and number one in France. Part
of the appeal is that cycling is universal.
dems, quad bikes, handisports workshops
(for cycling with a disability), vélo cargo mountain- from the cyclistfilmfestival.fr website.
France is full of museums devoted to
of competitive cycling in France, includ-
ing all sorts of memorabilia and interest-
Flat paths dedicated to bikes make bicy-
cling safe for everyone, even children.
(cargo bike), and electric bikes. Sunday
will host a market where you can try and sides are cycling and to the history of la petite reine
(the bike). The Musée du Vélo et de la
ing details about the Tour de France,
otherwise known as La Grande Boucle.
When it comes to cycling tourism,
everyone enjoys pedalling along the level
buy, a recycling point to leave old bikes
and accessories, plus a women’s bike ride taken over Moto in Domazan (Gard) is housed in a
magnificent chateau, and contains the
It even has displays about the famous
Caravane Publicitaire (publicity caravan).
banks of the Garonne or the Loire rivers,
stopping at regular intervals to inspect a
to raise money for cancer charities.
Vélo Passion in Avignon on October by cyclists collection of historian Claude Reynaud,
with early examples of draisiennes,
When it comes to finding good places
for ordinary souls to enjoy pedalling
July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Cycling 3
As it went on, international riders entered

Photo: Tour de France / A.S.O Aurélien Vialatte

the race, and sporting legends were made.
The Race For Madmen During the 1920 Tour de France, Honoré
Barthélémy had an accident in which he
A stork at the centre for
Chris Sidwells has written 27 books and broke his shoulder, dislocated his wrist
breeding and protection
thousands of articles about cycling. and lost the sight in one eye. He got up
at Parc de l’Orangerie in
“If you go back to the start of road and finished the race in third place over-
Strasbourg
racing, people didn’t have television and all, and entered again the next year wear-
radio. The biggest medium was the print- ing a glass eye.
ed press, and sporting newspapers were Henri Desgranges knew how to appeal
particularly popular,” he says. to people, and in 1905, introduced a stage
At that time, many French people lived in the Vosges mountains, overlooking the
hard lives in rural areas, struggling for territory that had been ceded to
survival. Transport was difficult. So when Germany. He subsequently added the
bicycles came along, people were amazed Pyrenees to the race.
at how far riders could travel in one day. “These places were completely inacces-
They could go even further than some- sible at that time, but suddenly these
one on horseback. heroes could cycle all over them. Their
“The first cycle races were long and cycles still only had two gears and they
hard. Roads were bad and the distances had to take the back wheel off to change
were enormous. Paris to Bordeaux for from one gear to the other. When holi-
example, and Paris-Brest-Paris. These days were introduced in July it made the
races were done in one go. The clock Tour even more popular.
started ticking at the beginning and “It has always been a massive drama
stopped when riders crossed the finish played out against amazing scenery;
line. It was up to them how much time everyone was desperate for the next
they spent sleeping or eating.” chapter. Also, it might come down your
People appreciated just how hard the street. If your town could pay to host the
races were, and regarded the riders as Tour, it could come through your place.
heroes. Newspapers competed to organise It’s artificial, gaudy, exciting, a soap
the best races, and to publish the most opera. It’s a media circus. It was designed
attention-grabbing headlines. to be a media circus.”
“In 1903, Henri Desgranges, the editor Mythical figures include Jean Robic of
of the Auto-Vélo newspaper (now called France, who won the Tour in 1947 with-
L’Equipe), decided to make money by out having won a single stage of the race.
creating an eye-catching race which Possibly even more dramatic in 1989 was
would cover the entire hexagon of France. the American Greg LeMond beating
It was too long, however, traversing thou- Frenchman Laurent Fignon to the
sands of kilometres. To solve this, they winning spot by only eight seconds. The
invented stage racing, with some of the drama was heightened because 1989 was
stages up to 462km long. The opening the 200th anniversary of France becom-
stage of the first race was from Paris to ing a Republic. One of the most success-
Lyon, for example. It took two to three ful cyclists of all time is Belgian Eddie
days before they all got there,” he adds. Merckx, who won in 1969, 1970, 1971,
The race caught the public’s imagina- 1972, and 1974,” he concludes.
tion, however. Young people took up Women have wanted to join the race
cycling because a bicycle was cheaper since the first ever Tour de France and
than a horse and more exciting. For the after various attempts to set up a women’s
first time, ordinary young men had the race, last year saw the first Tour de France
chance to win large sums of money. Femmes. This year, the second edition
“Maurice Garin won the first race and will take place from 23-30 July; riders
the prize money was the equivalent of will cover 956km in eight stages, starting
along with no stress, the paths around is where in 1910, when the first Tour Above: the Tour seven years’ salary as a miner. He was at Clermont-Ferrand and finishing in
Lake Annecy take some beating. They are de France rider reached the top of the de France passes made for life.” Pau. All the details are available at
mostly on the water’s edge, making it easy hill, he yelled at the organisers, “You’re through some The race was a success, and grew from www.letourfemmes.fr.
to stop for a swim or a picnic. Leave assassins! Yes, assassins!” spectacular scenery there. “The Tour de France has always Tour de France, Race for Madmen
Annecy heading south on the west side of At the steepest point the incline is more been a professional race, organised as a by Chris Sidwells (HarperCollins)
the lake, and you will find you can reach than 10%, and the average over the 19km media circus in order to make money. is a great place to learn more.
as far as Talloires on the east side of the route is 7.39%. And if that ride fails to kill
lake before being confronted with the you, you can then attack the ‘Circle of

Photo: Tour de France / A.S.O. Louis Legon

incredibly steep Roc-de-Chère, which Death’ by cycling from the Col de The first ever Tour
only the super fit would dream of Peyresourde to the Col d’Aubisque, de France Femmes
approaching on a bicycle. You can either just an extra 141km. took place in 2022
put the bikes on a boat from Talloires to In the summer, once the ski lifts grind
Annecy Town (check timetables before to a halt, the steepest Alpine mountain-
leaving Annecy) or simply turn around sides are taken over by cyclists. Again,
and go back the way you came. these are not pedal paths for beginners.
Another place perfect for leisurely They are incredibly difficult and
pedalling is the Île de Ré, which is almost challenging.
totally flat and surrounded by inviting The Col de la Loze in the Trois Vallées
beaches. It is also blessed with beach bars offers four different cycle routes, but the
and shacks selling fresh oysters should main route up to the top involves a gruel-
you need refuelling at any point. There ling 7km climb, sometimes at a gradient
are 110km of cycle paths on the island of 23%, from an altitude of 1,673m at the
and four information points, at start to 2,304m at the end.
Sablanceaux–Rivedoux-Plage, Gros Jonc– There are cycle routes all over France,
Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré, Le Martray–Ars-en- and maps are available at francevelotour-
Ré, and La Maison du Fier–Les Portes- isme.com. You can search for routes by
en-Ré. A handy shuttle service will trans- length or difficulty. One of the newest
port you and your bike from one infor- véloroutes to be completed is the Voie
mation point to another for €1 per Bleue, running 700km from Apach on the
person, per trip. border of Luxembourg all the way south
The Canal du Midi in the south is also to Lyon. It passes through the beautiful
great for cyclists, as the paths are flat and towns and cities of Thionville, Metz,
mostly quite shady. There are loads of Nancy, Ray-sur-Saône, Auxonne,
cafés and bars along the way. If you start Tournus, Villefranche-sur-Saône, and
at Carcassonne, it will take around four Trévoux, before finally reaching Lyon.
days, depending how many historical The route takes cyclists along the
villages you explore, to reach the Moselle valley, the Canal des Vosges, and
Mediterranean at Sète. the banks of the Saône, until it reaches
If you are astonishingly fit and slightly the confluence with the Rhône. The
mad, you could always attack the Col de entire route is signposted and off-road.
Tourmalet in the central Pyrenees. This There are no hills.
4 Rencontre connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

‘Walking on stage in front of 600,000

people was something really special’
After performing as a young man at the iconic Isle

Photos: Thierry Danglos

of Wight festival in 1970, British singer-songwriter
Terry Scott Jr chose to settle in Normandy. Théophile
Larcher finds out how he forged a successful career

T
erry Scott Jr got to experience Why Orbec in Calvados? It is inland,
every musician’s dream in with tractors, hay, cows, Calvados and
1970, when he performed Livarot cheese. I spent my childhood
with his band Heaven in front there so understand the appeal, but
of 600,000 spectators at the why did you not choose somewhere
Isle of Wight Festival along with rock near the Channel like many Brits do?
legends Jimi Hendrix and Jeff Beck. (Laughs) I was driven out by the taupes
After its acclaimed debut album Brass (moles.)
Rock 1 in 1971, Heaven embarked on a We lived in Meulles, between Orbec and
European tour, opening for Jeff Beck. Vimoutiers, but when we could, my wife
Mr Scott Jr’s career was on the up. and I used to drive to the nearest beach
But contrary to expectations, he chose in Houlgate. We always wanted a house
to settle in France, where he has been right on the beach.
living now for 51 years. The decision to Our new house in Bernières-sur-Mer is
relocate was prompted by his marriage 600 metres from the beach, which is fine.
to Karine Jeantet, an actress who formerly
worked with film directors François Do you still have Livarot cheese
Truffaut and Michel Piccoli before and Calvados in your cupboards?
taking up a job at the Crazy Horse cabaret Absolutely. Absolutely. All of the farmers’
in Paris. stuff. Not this rubbish that you buy in
Does a British person who has lived the supermarket.
in France for so long qualify as French?
It seems so when you learn about Mr What is your experience
Scott Jr’s trajectory, ongoing career, and of touring in Normandy?
partnerships with some of France’s most It is great. I was really afraid after leaving
popular musicians... and his opinion of Orbec because I had my circle of musi-
British expats. cians and wondered whether I would
Having settled in Orbec in Normandy, lose all my contacts and not be able to
he has experienced the two colours that play on stage again.
define this region – the green of the culti- Instead, I have found so many musi-
vated fields of inner Calvados, its Livarot cians in Bernières-sur-Mer. It is unreal.
cheese and Calvados bottles, and the blue Every day musicians come round to
horizon of coastal Bernières-sur-Mer. practice with me. Some even come on
In Normandy he achieved outstanding tour with me.
musicianship through the songs he wrote, I have discovered a lot of blues bands
by touring the region, and in releasing with musicians that fit right in with my
records. His latest album, called Terry sort of country-rock style – something
Scott Jr, is a tribute to his origins. He told between Dire Straits, Johnny Cash and
The Connexion he has always written Eric Clapton. Terry Scott Jr seen Do you agree with John Lennon Going back to the Isle of Wight
songs in this way. I’m talking seriously good guitar, banjo performing at gigs when he said that French rock festival in 1970. Did you get to
“It is not a French thing, not an English and accordion players that I did not in Normandy. You is like English wine... bad? meet Jimi Hendrix and Jeff Beck?
thing, not an American thing. It is just encounter in Orbec. can catch him in Noooo. I mean, there’s a hell of a lot I met Hendrix backstage in our caravans,
where I am,” he said. concert in July of bad music in England! I love Francis he was a gentleman. He asked me to share
How did the collaboration with Cabrel, Alain Bashung, Jacques a caravan with some man. Turns out it
Why did you choose to popular French singer-songwriter Higelin, Georges Brassens, Edith Piaf, was Leonard Cohen. I thought we would
settle down in France? William Sheller go? As British and and Françoise Hardy. get to jam with him but he slept all day
I ended the tour and was about to dissolve French musicians, how did you (Editor’s note: Most of these are known (laughs). It was such a shock as a 21 year
Heaven. I met Nino Ferrer and other successfully bring together your for their chansons françaises, rather than old. Walking on stage in front of 600,000
show business people in Saint-Tropez different musical worlds? rock anthems.) people was something really special that
who told me that CBS France wanted to Well, William Sheller has Canadian and Alain Bashung was a great rebel, Jacques I will never forget.

“
give me a solo contract. They introduced Scottish origins, if I remember correctly. Higelin as well (a friend of mine by the
me to William Sheller, and we co-wrote He was very much into The Beatles and way). Nino (Ferrer, a French singer-song- Can we expect more tours
my first single. A year George Martin. writer) wrote a couple of silly songs, like from you this summer?
later, I met my future His background was very the one with the cornichons, but he really I have some gigs coming up in June and
wife. Basically, that classical, whereas I was a helped me out. He produced a record July around Orbec. I’m doing a festival on
was it. ballad singer. He wanted with me. July 28 in Bernières-sur-Mer. The album

Why did you choose

someone English to adapt
Lux Aeterna, one of his I met Jimi How do you find the community in
just came out and got really good reviews,
so I’ve got to get out there and perform.
Normandy? What
was the appeal?
operas. I provided an adap-
tation of the lyrics. It was a Hendrix Normandy? You are practically French,
having lived here for 51 years... Has France changed the way
I was living in Paris
and performed gigs in
mutual understanding of the
same big ballads, the sort backstage There are different kinds of Brits. Expats
often do not mix with the French, they
you write songs? Do you still
connect with your British roots?
some American cock-
tail bars for ten years.
of gospel records which we
both bought and loved. at the Isle watch Sky television. If they had no Sky,
I think most of them would have left
I don’t know if the influence is British
to be honest, because I listen to more
It was successful but
took a lot of my energy
I also worked on a song
with Tom Arena, who of Wight already. They don’t speak the language.
I feel sorry for them because there is so
American music than English. And I have
done so for years now. My lyrics are just
and I wanted to live in
a country house and go back to my music.
collaborated with William
Sheller for Les Irrésistibles (a 70s boy festival, much culture here. They think English
humour is the only humour in the world.
everyday thoughts of my life. It is not a
French thing, not an English thing, not an
I needed a rest and bought my maison
secondaire, which eventually became my
band). Tom had written the words, and
William the music. Strangely enough, it he was a They cannot believe that the French make
jokes. Some of them are so closed. I do
American thing. It is just where I am.
I write ballads, but I am going back to
main home after I had had enough of my
busy life in Paris in 1995 and 1996.
is the song for the latest James Bond film,
sung by French star Dalida. gentleman not go out with a lot of English people.
I prefer to go out with the French.
writing rock songs. In fact I’m writing
more now than ever before.
6 Gardens connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

Périgord perfection: top topiary and

an English-style garden in Dordogne
Readers seeking some but nettles and brambles around the

Photos courtesy of Nigel & Fabienne Slater, and Marie-Odile LeFranc

house itself when she and her husband
lovely Open Gardens to first arrived. She quickly began to plant
ornamental trees, shrubs and herbaceous
visit in July are spoilt for borders, creating the ‘gardened’ hectare
that visitors enjoy.
choice. Cathy Thompson Unlike many French people, she does
not believe that ‘garden’ should mean
highlights two beauties ‘vegetable garden’ and her ornamental
plantings lean, she says, towards the
in the Dordogne English style of garden. “The English go

T
for green and soft colours in the garden;
the French like vibrant, sometimes aggres-
his month we are lucky sive, shades.”
enough to be able to visit a Now, although Marie-Odile’s garden was
couple of garden gems in the begun over 20 years ago, she feels as if it
same Dordogne commune, has quite simply ‘always’ been there. And
courtesy of the Open Gardens she is always very appreciative when visi-
scheme, which exists to raise money for tors comment that she has recreated the
children’s charities. atmosphere of an English garden.
Lasteyrie, the garden of Nigel and The soil in the garden is both a blessing
Fabienne Slater (1589 route de la and a problem. It can be worked at any
Fontaine, 24340 La Rochebeaucourt- time but increasing periods of drought
et-Argentine; Tel: 05 53 56 44 60; makes irrigation essential. Fortunately,
www.chateaudelasteyrie.com) is open on there is a well on the property that never
Sunday 30 July, from 10:30 to 18:00. The runs dry and a micro-irrigation system
Slaters decided in 2015 to transfer their has been installed everywhere, even in the
weddings and events business from the orchard. Careful collection of roof runoff
UK and, based on their previous experi- water and mulching throughout also helps
ence, knew that a chateau setting in a gled with drought and Fabienne com- Above and below project. It is now populated with comet to maintain the fresh look.
historic and romantic landscape was ments: “We’ve tried new species. Some, left: immaculate and shubunkin goldfish swimming around The aim in this garden is to have flowers
essential to tempt potential clients. such as holm oak [Quercus ilex] and a box hedges and a the amazing assortment of hardy water lil- all year round. Even in winter the poly-
The seven-hectare park at Laysterie cherry tree, with great success, some not delightful pond are ies and the sacred lotus, Nelumbo nucifera.” thene tunnel is burgeoning with growth,
was created in the nineteenth century quite so successfully. The main difficulty among the high- All the aquatic plants have come from as Marie-Odile uses it to protect perenni-
and thus boasts a mature and traditional is that winters in the Périgord can still be lights at Laysterie; Latour-Marliac, the oldest nursery of this als in pots, and bulbs and tubers such as
structure. Fabienne recalls that, “in spite frosty and Mediterranean flora is not below right, Marie- kind in the world, which inspired the tulips, anemones and Ranunculus, in
of the fact that it was a dull winter’s day, always adapted.” Odile LeFranc’s famous French painter Claude Monet. order to have flowers from the beginning
we were immediately taken by the park... One of the most striking features about English-style garden There are ten varieties of waterlily, of March. This is also where she starts
the chateau is approached via a long pri- this style of French garden is, of course, has been part of carefully chosen for their colour (such off her young plants for producing cut
vate driveway lined by Leyland cypress the plantings of box and topiary speci- the Open Gardens as ‘Almost Black’ and ‘Siam Purple’) flowers at the beginning of April.
and across an open parkland with a large mens. The Slaters do have help trimming scheme since 2015 or for their rarity, such as ‘Ziyu’. Marie-Odile has continued to open in
collection of conifers, among them two the box hedges, a task carried out twice a Fabienne finds the waterlilies satisfying support of Open Gardens since 2015, even
magnificent century-old Lebanese cedars. year to keep them absolutely immaculate. to propagate: “They need to be divided in this rather difficult year, during which
“As you continue to follow the track, And, as with many other gardens, control every two or three years and the leftover she and her husband are in the process of
more fir trees hide the view until finally of the box tree moth caterpillar has added roots regrow quite easily. If available at moving house. Temporarily that compli-
the house appears, dominated by a giant hours to garden maintenance, with plants the time we are open for Open Gardens, cates life, since effectively she is now
Abies alba... Many visits later, we were checked regularly during peak outbreak visitors can buy them!” gardening in two places!
still in awe of the place and it had won times and immediate spraying with As an added draw to the garden, at 14:30 But she says that, aside from gardening
our heart over other contenders.” Bacillus thuringiensis if there is any sign on 30 July, Jean-Pierre Faure, member of journals, private gardens opened gener-
With a series of careful custodians, of caterpillars. the Scottish pipe band Saor Alba Pipe & ously by fellow members of the Open
including the Slaters, Laysterie has had a In the course of a July walk through the Drums will play the bagpipes. Gardens association have continued to
lucky history and the landscape has been garden, you will discover a rose garden, provide her with inspiration over the
maintained and treasured, particularly in orchard, potager and pond, the latter being NEARBY, the garden of Marie-Odile years. “I was immediately seduced by
in the 1990s, when a good deal of land- the Slaters’ pride and joy. Fabienne says: LeFranc (Le Châtenet, 24340 La the initiative!” As a result, she feels it
scaping work was carried out. However, “It came to life rather unexpectedly, as we Rochebeaucourt-et-Argentine; Tel: 06 15 important to offer other gardeners the
as with all mature gardens, there have decided one day to clear an area full of 96 27 13) is open from 10:00 to 18:00 on same opportunity.
been losses and necessary replacements. brambles, revealing a concrete basin and the same day. This site of 45 hectares was
A situation aggravated by the increasingly a stone waterfall hidden under the over- previously an apple orchard and chosen Check www.opengardens.eu regularly
dry summer climate. grown bushes. We immediately saw the by Marie-Odile in pursuit of her career as for more gardens to visit; at this time
The conifers in particular have strug- opportunity and started to work on the an arboriculturist, but there was nothing of year there are additions every week.
 July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Gardening 7

Photo: BrasO’Feu

Photos: Cathy Thompson

Garden digest
Cook-out in style
Sweet William the superpower
The main ‘takeway’ from April’s well- Cathy Thompson on the origins and aesthetics of these trouble-free perennials
attended Paris Barbecue Expo, which
saw the public invited to enjoy cookery ered biennial – that only need a light That would be in June or July for
workshops and explore the latest outdoor clipping after flowering to encourage Dianthus barbatus, but author/‘gardner’,
French garden diary

T
grilling equipment, was the dominant young growth. John Reid, goes on to tell us that even
presence of live-fire braseros. There’s a nasty rumour going around in Scotland your seeds will require
South American in origin, these he twenty-first century sees that the plant gets its common name ‘watering and shade.’ How much more
chunky, circular wood or coal-fired us all relentlessly on the trail because Scots know it as ‘Stinking so in the heat of France?
stoves perched atop a storage cabinet Insta-jardins of drought-resistant plants, Willie’ after William, Duke of It might be worth trying a method that
allow for sociable grilling and, alongside Instagram is a brilliant but the predilections of some Cumberland, who changed the history we used to use in the parks departments
flat, plancha-style grills, are the on-trend place to enjoy other old favourites can surprise of the Scottish Highlands forever at of London. After bedding forget-me-nots
product for French barbecue fans. people’s gardens in us. Border phlox (Phlox paniculata Culloden in April 1746. The rumour is were lifted from the ground in June, we
Many ‘Made in France’ brands are France, with everyone cultivars) and Sweet William, for exam- groundless, since Scotland’s ‘Stinking would lay the stems on the soil in a very
available to choose from, with premium from visitors to chambre ple, have always been associated in my Willie’ is really ragweed, hated by agri- shady spot on the nursery and – hey
models such as those made by Orne d’hôtes owners posting heart with the cool, fresh gardens of culturists and horticulturists throughout presto! – with the first drop of rain (or
(Normandy) firm BrasO’Feu ranging seasonal snaps and quirky Perthshire in Scotland, where I spent the temperate world. the sight of you and your watering can)
from €1,200 to €3,200 – all with a life- updates from their gar- my adolescence. The name could be a corruption of the babies would spring into life.
time guarantee. dens (users can search Only the heat of a French garden has the French word for ‘carnation’ (and all Make sure you sprinkle your seed –
using the hashtag #jar- begun to demonstrate that they have dianthus, by association): oeillet, mean- or lay down your seedheads – in rows,
Make your own pot luck dins, #monjardin, #jardi- superpowers. Since I acquired my first ing ‘small eye’. It’s even suggested, since since then the seedlings will be very
Are you the proud owner of new terra- nage or #potager). little collection of eight phlox cultivars Gerard was the first to describe the evident when they germinate. In the
cotta (terre cuite) plant pots? Here is a tip A winning Instagram back in 2015, I’ve only lost two: that in plant back in Tudor times – he called it parks we would line out our forget-me-
from the experts at Truffaut: as unglazed combination of greenery, itself is unusual here! Even more special ‘Sweete Williams’ – that the William in not seedlings in rows before transplant-
pots are susceptible to cracking with sud- a wooden terrace and a is the fact that, unlike many plants on question was actually Gerard’s contem- ing to final spring-flowering positions
den temperature changes, soak them for happy cat, we love this my heavy clay, they never bat an eyelid porary, William Shakespeare. in autumn, but I imagine that the fol-
48 hours in a basin of water before use. jungle-like scene featuring when they are lifted and divided. A pretty story, which I don’t buy, but lowing spring would be more suitable
Then let them dry in the open air before cat Guizmo, posted by During the dry weather that set in unu- we all love mysterious links to famous for transplanting Sweet William.
filling them with earth.You can also give pepinedebananeverte sually early in May 2022, new divisions people. Personally, I will stubbornly Wallflowers, Dame’s violet, honesty
the outside a thin coat of linseed oil. soldiered on and were much bigger in continue to believe, as I did at and foxgloves are definitely all
size this spring. They were (very) occa- age 10, that the flowers candidates for this treatment.
Gardening jobs for July sionally watered, but by the time July were named for my Uncle Of course, on the right kind
July is the latest time to sow carrots for a rolled around ‘Fujiyama’, ‘Laura’, ‘Tenor’, Willie from Glasgow... of soil (mine is not very
crop in autumn, while lettuce will come ‘Blue Boy’ and the rest were surpassing My treasured facsimile conducive, being a clay that
again and again until September. themselves against a west-facing wall. copy of a late seven- caps in summer) they will
Red discs of slightly piquant crunch- Perhaps that wall is the secret, because teenth century book self-sow where they have
iness, radishes are simple to grow and the border gets shade in the morning... called The Scots Gardener flowered, but sowing in
ideal sliced in salads. Or why not enjoy Of course, they will grow taller and lush- insists that ‘The most nat- nursery rows gives you more
them as the French do – served up whole er in cooler conditions, but who’s com- ural time for sowing is, control. In a large garden
with about half a centimetre of stalk to paring? Having realised that they like when the feeds of their own (where I frequently forget
hold on to, dipped in creamy butter and me, I am going to gradually add new accord falls into the ground...’ things!) I appreciate that.

“
then sea salt. cultivars. This year I made a start with I would always go for the seed strains
They like warm, moist soil – so water a purply-pink called ‘Blue Paradise’, that boast the largest number of ‘auricu-
regularly in dry conditions. After sow- but I really must acquire a very old pink la-eyed’ seedlings with the paler, dark-
ing – this can be done every few weeks cultivar with a darker eye: ‘Bright Eyes’ rimmed centres, especially if they are
throughout the summer – thin out seed- which is almost synonymous with those fringed and freckled. This is your classic
lings that are growing closely together. cool borders of my youth.
While the phlox are out-performing They are so welcome plant, but also look out for ‘Sooty’, a
seed strain related to Dianthus barbatus
themselves in July, I am thinking about
sowing more Sweet William (Dianthus because they fill the ‘Nigrescens’, whose flowers are very dark
red, and shown to advantage by foliage
barbatus). They are so welcome because
they fill the gap between the tulips of gap between the that becomes more mahogany as it ages.
‘Black Magic’ is similar, but a little tall-
April and May and later flowering her-
baceous plants, as well as being amaz- tulips of April and May er. I’ve tried endlessly to germinate these
desirable little sweeties: time to give up,
ingly long-lasting cut flowers.
and later flowering I think, and buy in young plants, also
Photo: Pixabay

A July 2018 sowing has given me a bed available in France.

of trouble-free perennials – this, in spite
of the fact that they are usually consid- herbaceous plants You can contact Cathy by email at:
editor@connexionfrance.com
8 Interview connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

‘Nobody cares

Photo: Michel Monsay, Académie française

how important
words are or the
role they play’
Théophile Larcher speaks to Hélène Carrère
d’Encausse, a Russophile and one of France’s
official keepers of the French language in her role
as perpetual secretary of the Académie française

T
he French language is being in 1918. Following the Cold War, nobody
more and more misused and wondered how it should organise or pro-
impoverished, fears the lifetime tect itself, or how Russia should take part.
chairwoman of France’s most I knew it would shatter, not to mention
prestigious language guardian. that Ukraine was the weakest link. The
Hélène Carrère d’Encausse has held the reason is simple and was theorised by
top job at France’s Académie française for the Polish-American diplomat Zbigniew
24 years as ‘perpetual secretary’ and takes Brzeziński in his landmark work The
its role in defence of French very seriously. Great Chessboard. Russia is not an empire
In fact, however, to the average French without Ukraine.
person she is probably best known as an Mr Brzeziński was very affected by how
expert on Russia, and it is for this second Europe poorly manoeuvred the end of the
feather in her cap that she has been USSR, providing little support to help
increasingly called on since the start of Russia move toward democracy.
the war in Ukraine. Le Monde calls her The US left Russia in its throes in order
une grande connaisseuse. to break it. The Americans have strate-
Latterly the 94-year-old, who we met at gized masterfully to weaken Russia.
her flat overlooking the Louvre, has
attracted more coverage than ever, appear- Is there something you missed
ing on many TV shows and granting inter- in your analysis of Vladimir Putin?
views, but she has been a staple on TV dis- Two things. Putin almost came to power
cussion panels for 40 years. out of luck. This was not a rational choice
She is a Russophile with German, made by Russia. Secondly, westerners do
Russian and Polish descendants, and in not understand that the KGB is the equiv-
2000 met Vladimir Putin, bringing to the alent of l’ENA (one of the most academi-
French nation nuanced explanations about cally exceptional French schools), where
Russia and its history. But recently she has the intellectual elite goes to learn how to
distanced herself from the Russian leader, govern a nation. Putin, however, was a
following criticism over her position. mediocre student.
When I asked her about Putin she looked He tried to don the clothes of a big lead-
at the recording machine – the only time er and be closer to Europe during his first Above, Hélène how words and their definitions have determined by the whims of members of
she did so during the interview – clearly years in office. This changed after the Carrère d’Encausse evolved. Marriage is no longer ‘the union the Académie, with some playing political
wanting to avoid ruffling more feathers. Munich conference in 2007, when he shed dressed in her of a man and a woman’, but ‘the union of games with candidates. Many women
That was, however, just one aspect of his skin and returned to his roots as a spy. official robes at the two people’, these sorts of things… have come forward to let me know they

“
the interview, as Ms Carrère d’Encausse He seems trapped or frozen in a sort of Académie française would consider being part of the
has also been the perpetual secretary of gang. It has become a real problem, since You have spoken about equality Académie if the election system were to
the Académie since October 21, 1999. This he looks and acts almost mechanically. in status roles. Has the Académie change. But from an official standpoint,
is the highest and most prestigious role in française been slow to accept I do not know how to make that happen.
this institution founded in 1635 to regulate What is your role as perpetual women into its ranks?
the official usage of the French language. secretary of the Académie française? What is true is that women still hesitate Is your role twice as demanding
Being a member has made her une The perpetual secretary runs the books. to apply to be members. I would like because you are a woman?
immortelle (an Immortal), the name given
to all of the Academy’s 40 members.
There is nothing chic about it, but it
matters a lot to me. There is no president,
The French them to bolster our numbers, but they
hold back. I am convinced one will join
No. Nobody really pays attention. Because
I am a woman, I care more about gender
Even I, as a French native, learned gram-
mar from her during the interview, when
only a committee that changes every
three months.
language us soon, but we’re not making progress
fast enough on this front. But this is not
issues than my male predecessors, but
nobody raises my gender as an issue. I am
she explained the difference between le
secrétaire and la secrétaire.
The Académie was founded in a country
which had not yet been united. It became
is precise, because the Académie rejects women. here. Take the word secrétaire for instance.

The Connexion met her to discuss the

issues that saw her become a remarkable
a political tool that worked to make
French the official language of unified
clear, and Would you say the Académie
française is misogynistic?
That was my next question…
My mother told me that I should never
figure in French public life: Russia and the
influence of its empire and history, being a
France. However, it is also a body that has
since been able to work with regional lan-
conveys a No. But it carries the weight of a heavy
tradition. You know, four centuries is a
learn how to type on a machine because I
would then be relegated to being a secre-
women at the Académie française, and the
fight to maintain the prestige of French.
guages, such as Basque and Breton. The
Académie has been successful so far in its
straight- long time… tary, that is to serve coffee to the boss,
regardless of my academic qualifications.

You wrote L’Empire éclaté (untranslat-

aims, but needs to continue its good work.
The Académie française has heralded
forward Well, then would you say that
French literature is misogynistic?
She told me never to become a secretary.
And I became a perpetual secretary.
ed, 1978) in which you predicted ‘good usage’ of the French language.
Nowadays, France has greater global
message. There are outstanding women writers. It
the collapse of the USSR. Did you is moving in the right direction. I am not Madame, le secrétaire in its mascu-
anticipate the war in Ukraine? influence with its language than with its But it is more denying that. Barbara Cassin and Chantal line form. It is important to you. Why?
No. However, I knew that Europe had declining military. Thomas have joined us over the last five Secretary is an epicene word, which
not found peace with Russia following It is about to publish the ninth edition of and more years. The former electoral system worked means that it retains the same gender
the downfall of the USSR. Europe missed its dictionary in nearly 400 years. Thanks well in the past thanks to literary salons. regardless of the sex of the person to
a peaceful transition with other nations to the Académie française, people can see misused Nowadays, it is done haphazardly and which it refers.
July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Green news 9

Photos: top, Abaca Press / Alamy; bottom, Mickaël Schauli / Wikimedia Commons

Photo: Toopi
Theme park collects urine
to be used as biostimulant
Furthermore, the investigation found
that some firms regularly exaggerate their
Green news green credentials, in order to distinguish
themselves from competitors – it cites the
Firm transforms human urine example of a false claim on a jar of honey,
Forward-thinking family theme park on which was written “for each jar sold, a
Futuroscope, near Poitiers (Vienne) has donation is made to [an] association that
teamed up with Gironde biotechnology fights for the protection of bees”.
company Toopi to collect park visitors’ In reality, the DGCCRF found that
urine, in order to transform it into a only one donation had been made by
‘biostimulant’ for agriculture. the company – in 2016.
According to Toopi Organics, their
process “has been tested and patented How to pick a clean beach
and is an ecological solution that is less Just in time for summer holiday plan-
expensive than the chemical additives ning, the 2023 Pavillon Bleu (Blue Flag)
currently used in agriculture. This awards for coastal cleanliness saw 511
innovation is part of a circular, local sites – 406 beaches and 105 harbours –
and reproducible model”. receive the award, which is based on
Alexandra Carpentier, CEO of Toopi, nearly 100 criteria relating to ecosystem
told francetvinfo: “Historically, we have preservation.
always thought of using it [human urine] The main themes considered by judges
as a direct fertiliser. The problem is that it are: environmental education and public
requires a lot of urine. One hectare awareness, the general environment, site
requires 40,000 litres. Our innovative idea management, water management, envi-
is to use urine as a culture medium for ronmental management and waste man-
micro-organisms that are of interest to agement. Specific criteria for beaches
I was about to say it is a feminine… The 17th-century writer and theologian Top: Hélène Carrère agriculture. This allows for the recreation include disabled access, bathing water
We used to say ‘the secretary of the king’ Fénelon used to say that both languages d’Encausse pictured of life in the soil. And so with our prod- quality and coral monitoring, while
in the Middle Ages. The secretary was a should be inspired by the other, and that alongside Pope uct, we reduce by half the amount of syn- harbours and ports are rewarded, among
man, but the word is meant to qualify one language must communicate with Benedict XVI at the thetic fertiliser needed. For the moment, many other things, for their safety and
the holder of a job, here the secretary. another. And he is right about that. Institut de France in it’s mainly for field crops, especially corn.” rescue provision.

“
La secrétaire, however, is how you might I think that the significance of being 2008; and above, Futuroscope is in the process of chang-
refer to the person (almost always a clear and precise with words has disap- Hélène Carrère ing all of its urinals so that the liquid no
woman) serving coffee to the boss. peared. Nobody cares how important d’Encausse in 2023 longer goes down the drain, but instead
The Académie considers that since the words are and what role they play in a into a recovery tank. Four toilet blocks
French language has no neutral, the mas- sentence. The result is a softening of the are equipped so far, with all of the park’s
culine functions by default as the neutral. French language that reduces its vital toilets set to be transformed by 2025.
It means that if someone is a baker, it functional position in society.
qualifies as a job, a neutral noun.
I was elected to my position as perpetu- Are you thinking of
False claims about green credentials
About a quarter of companies assessed
Some firms regularly
al secretary. It is a job. I hold the job,
which means the word cannot switch its
a word in particular?
No. Many words have disappeared from
over the last two years in the fight against
‘greenwashing’ – the practice of giving a
exaggerate their green
function from masculine to feminine. It
is what it is.
usage and people do not even know
them. The Académie française’s diction-
false impression of making a positive envi-
ronmental impact – showed “anomalies”,
credentials, in order to
The Académie follows the same policy
for every job. Many women have come
ary exists to save words. We refuse to let
them rot in a cemetery.
according to a survey by the Directorate
General for Competition, Consumer
distinguish themselves
forward to tell me that they prefer to be
introduced as Madame, l’ambassadeur What advice would you
Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF).
The survey of 1,100 establishments
from competitors
rather than the feminine version, give to our readers who wish producing or selling non-food related
Madame, l’ambassadrice. to learn or improve their French? products and services was conducted in Participating towns and villages must
Read. And before you ask which book, 2021 and 2022 by the services of the pay a fee to be considered for a blue flag.
How would you describe I urge them to read Les Misérables by Ministry of Economy. “To put an end The Occitanie and Provence-Alpes-Côte
the French language? Victor Hugo. For one hour a day. to the greenwashing commercial practices d’Azur (PACA) regions dominate the list,
It is an extremely simple language to This is because its language is incompa- of the products or services controlled, with 241 sites between them, or 47% of
understand. Everyone should pay atten- rably dense and rich. It is a beautifully the investigators have thus issued 141 total sites awarded the label.
tion to what it says, and the function of written novel but also because it’s a warnings, 114 injunctions and 18 crimi- Nine beaches and five ports have made
words. When communicating, the French fascinating story. You just can’t stop turn- nal or administrative proceedings,” the list for the first time this year, while
language is precise and clear and conveys ing the pages. said a statement. Pornichet in Loire-Atlantique received
a straightforward message. But it is more It added that “a very large proportion a special prize (Le Prix Thomas Joly) in
and more misused. Last question Madame, le of the claims” made “did not refer to a recognition of its biodiversity efforts and
secrétaire. Are you immortal? particular environmental impact, but dune preservation.
Because of anglicisms? Immortality is for the French language rather suggested a global benefit for the You can check the map of beaches that
I would not say that, because both alone. This is the Académie’s credo. environment, citing examples of claims have attained their blue flag by visiting
languages have borrowed from each I am simply one chaperone of the such as ‘environmentally friendly’ or https://pavillonbleu.org and clicking on
other a lot over the centuries. French language. ‘eco-responsible’. ‘Palmares’ on the top menu.
10 Nature connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

All things bright and beautiful

Aude-based nature lover Red-billed leiothrix European Green woodpecker
Jonathan Kemp on his
his latest sightings

Photo: Michel Fernandez

n my way to check out the
nest site of a pair of Golden
eagles – a mission without
success, there was no sign

Photo: Jean Paul Fabre

of them during the three
hours I was there – I stopped by the
house of a friend who had sent me a the chips of woods are massive, you can
photo of a brightly coloured little bird confidently predict that the powerful beak

Photo: Michel Fernandez

that had been regularly visiting their of the black has been at work. In flight
feeders for the last week or so. gracing our garden recently. A common they are recognisable by not dipping like
The bird, in fact there were several, bird, but no less spectacular despite that. A male greated the greens but flying in straight lines and
turned out to be a red-billed leiothrix, The great spotted woodpecker (pic épeiche) spotted woodpecker, somewhat clumsily.
(leiothrix jaune), originally escapees, is one of the five common species The received wisdom around the con-
or released, from someone’s aviary of of woodpecker that we have in our region, able to distinguish the song of the sub spe- cept of ‘beauty’ is that it is only subjective;
exotic birds. although there are several more if you cies sharpei as the one that I habitually beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and
These dazzling birds, about 15cm long, search throughout Europe. hear, the Spanish version of the green that is true. However, the more that I look
are native to southern China and the The great spot is dramatically coloured woodpecker that is more common in at the myriad wealth of colours and listen
Himalayas. They have been seen about five in black, red and white like the livery of France. There is a visual difference if you to the songs of birds, watch the flowers
times in the Aude, and as I estimated that smartly dressed footmen; they are always get very good views – the Spanish bird bloom, notice the shimmering bodies of
there were about five or six members of the a pleasure to see, flying in their typical does not have any black around the eye. insects, I am amazed by all there is to see
species present the day I visited, they are switchback fashion to land vertically on tree For both the green and the sharpei, the and hear. Surely something else is going
clearly breeding with success and could trunks, where they search with that wicked song and the call are the easiest means to on here, some sort of objective beauty
become established here in France. beak for insects hidden in the bark, or find these elusive birds – it is rare to get inspiring poetry, song and wonder.
These (illegal) introductions are conten- break open pine cone seeds that they have close to them. The loud, repeated ‘kluh I know I am lucky to live in rural France
tious, as some species become too success- wedged in selected crevices. They will also kluh’ travels a good distance, and as it is where Nature knocks at the door through-
ful at the cost of native species, grey squir- predate on the eggs and young chicks of uttered in flight it can guide you to a bird. out the daylight hours and, sometimes, at
rels being the classic example in Britain – other birds, and are capable of opening up Green woodpeckers are insect preda- night; but then so are many people. We

“
they have displaced the native reds and are entrance holes to gain access to the nests. tors, often feeding on the ground, pecking just have to look.
very laborious to eradicate. If you see damage around the hole of up ants.
However, it is not every ‘invasive’ species your nesting boxes, the culprit is probably It is impossible to write about the wood- Black woodpecker
that is going to do damage; in my reading a woodpecker. peckers of our region without mentioning
about the introductions of this pretty little The contact call is easy to hear once you one that I would be extremely lucky to see
bird in various European countries it seems have picked it up: a brief and repeated ‘kick’ from the garden, even though they are not
that they struggle to get a real (wing) hold. echoing through the woods. In spring both bright birds as such but very dramatic,
They have, on occasion, started well but
populations then collapse, possibly from a
sexes drum in short, fast bursts, their ver-
sion of a territorial song. How does a bird
The bird’s with a black body and a red crown, larger
in the male. This is the black woodpecker,
pathogen that they are not equipped to deal
with. So, probably, we can welcome them
which bashes into a lump of wood repeat-
edly avoid damaging its brain? The answer
relatively (pic noir) the largest woodpecker in
Europe, about the size of a crow.
without apprehension. lies within. A specially-shaped hinge small head Very occasionally I can hear it, and not
It is sometimes called the Japanese between the front of its skull and beak, very far away there is a hillside where the
Nightingale – a misnomer, in fact, as they combined with a shock-absorbing muscle, means it calls are quite common. Once you have
are not native to Japan, but have been protects the bird’s brain from the vibration. identified the richly varied calls (listen to
introduced and naturalised there. They do Because the woodpecker’s head moves in can get Merlin or the Collins apps) they are
indeed have a powerful song, vaguely simi- a straight line, its brain is protected from unmistakable; audible from afar. The
lar to ‘our’ nightingales, but this is hard to damage. The bird’s relatively small head away drumming in spring is very powerful,
judge as the only example I could find was means it can get away with the immense distinctive machine gun-like salvos.
with the

Photo: Michel Fernandez

a caged bird with traffic noise in the back- impact when the beak hits the bark – at a These impressive woodpeckers nest in
ground, and that was certainly not the song force of more than 1,000 times gravity! mature forests of pine and mixed trees,
one can hear from European nightingales I counted five and a half species really, immense but also beech. When you come across a
(rossignol philomèle). because with the help of the Merlin ID dead tree that has been worked over by
A native, brightly coloured bird has been bird call identification app I have been impact various feeding woodpeckers and see that

Do not feed the animals: raising awareness of tourism dangers for cuddly Alpine marmots
says Monique Constant, the president the ropes.”
of the association Les Marmottes Marmots fed on the wrong food can
Samantha David d’Eygliers Mont-Dauphin (APEVM). develop diabetes. If they get too used

M
“People don’t realise that by feeding to tourists and pet dogs, they lose
them, they can make them ill or even their fear of hunters and wolves.
armots (marmottes kill them. And by trying to get close “We run awareness-raising sessions
in French) are so to them, they reduce their natural in local schools and tourist offices,
adorable that shops instincts to stay away from predators.” and we also organise La Journée de la
in the Alps sell soft Anywhere between 500-600 people a Marmotte with lots of activities for all
marmotte toys as day walk up the path from Eygliers the family. It is on July 29 this year.
souvenirs. But for how much longer? Mont-Dauphin to see the marmots. Also, every Thursday throughout July
Marmots, sometimes called wood- “If all of them offer just a tiny bit of and August we organise two sessions.”
chucks or groundhogs, are large bread or carrot, it makes them ill.” “The first is a breakfast with the
squirrels which live on the ground Marmots need to eat grass which marmots. People book ahead and
and hibernate underground during converts into the fat they need to then have breakfast on the grass while
the winter. Very cuddly-looking, survive their winter hibernation, watching the marmots with a profes-
adults measure 43-73cm from nose to during which they lose up to half sional, who can answer all their ques-
the base of the spine, with 13-20cm their bodyweight. tions. Every Thursday afternoon at and we’d love to find another volun-
tails. They weigh 2-8kg. An interest- “There is a tarmac path which is 17.30 we hold a treasure hunt. teer for this year.”
ing detail is that although they have even accessible to wheelchairs, and Children have to find the questions But her main message is that when
claws on most digits, they have finger- it has been roped off by Natura 2000 and answer them to get a prize.” you go to see the marmots you should
nails on their thumbs. (another environmental protection [Book ahead for both activities only take a camera, a sunhat and a
Photos: APEVM

Visitors love them so much that they organisation) to prevent people dam- via www.marmotteygliers.com]. bottle of water. And however cuddly
are even listed as attractions on aging the endangered dry grasses that “Last year we had a volunteer who they look, you should keep your dis-
TripAdvisor. But there is a problem, grow there. But some people step over ran some of the breakfasts in English tance from them.
 July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Cultural digest/Trending 11
From big cats to popping corks

Photos: LovenSpa
There is a rental boudoir boom,
such as the Lover Dose gîte
A round up of the arts and culture stories creating a buzz in France Glamour in Normandy

1. Felines in focus is an eight-part drama series that started

Culture-loving cat lovers (of both the out as a manga-style comic book from
domestic and wild kinds) should head Japan, and the plot is truly original.
to the wide-ranging ‘Felines’ exhibition, A powerful French wine critic dies in
being held at the Jardin des Plantes in Tokyo, leaving behind a wine collection
Paris until January 7, 2024. of 87,000 bottles worth over €150million.
At once admired and feared, cats are In his will he lays down a challenge to
some of the most represented mammals the two people who could inherit the
wine: his estranged daughter,

1
Photo: F-G-Grandin-MNHN

Camille (played by Fleur

Geffrier) and his Japanese pro-
tégé, Issei Tomine (Tomohisa
Yamashita). The tasks they carry
out are gruelling, notably for
Fleur who, while she has a
supremely sensitive palate, has
little interest in wine.
With its super-high production
values, majestic scenery and sur-
prisingly exciting glass-sniffing
scenes, this original series offers
Titilation and tittle-tattle: the
boom in romantic ‘love rooms’
great escapism and real educa-
tional insight for wine lovers both
amateur and expert.

in books and films, and the exhibition 4. Cro-Magnon force French couples seeking an amorous escape are taking advantage
features all 38 species of felines that Closed since January 2020 to allow for
inhabit the Earth. a a complete renovation, the Museum of the rise in bespoke lovers’ cocoons, writes Théophile Larcher
Among the topics covered is the of Resistance and Deportation at the
relationship between humans and felines historic Citadelle in Besançon (Doubs) reaching €305 a night. Clients range from 18 to 70
that has manifested itself in many will reopen its doors on September 8. years old.
#trending

S
cultures around the world throughout The works mean visitors will experi- While the couple first imagined the business
history. These complex relationships ence a new tour route, as well as two would be a sideline generating extra money – she
are depicted via cultural and symbolic rooms presenting an exceptional collec- o-called ‘love rooms’ are attracting more was a French teacher and Mr Brilland a school
objects from the collections of many tion of deportation art and spaces dedi- and more French couples looking to escape monitor – they quickly quit their professions to
museums: the Louvre, the Quai Branly- cated to temporary exhibitions. the humdrum of daily domestic life and become full-time entrepreneurs.
Jacques Chirac, the military museum The new permanent exhibition will be reward themselves with a soupçon of The couple did not, however, expect one aspect
and the Guimet museum. centred on two themes: ‘individuals and lost romance. behind the business. Particularly in the small village
Tickets from €10. See more informa- societies at war’ and ‘words and lan- They are regular rooms and suites such as the that is La Ferrière-Bochard, where everyone knows
tion at www.jardindesplantesdeparis.fr/ ones usually found in hotels or holiday cottages, each other.

3
Photo: Apple TV +

en/exhibition-felines. the main difference being that they are decorated “We had to live with gossiping, clichés and
to create a romantic and peaceful atmosphere. tittle-tattle,” said Ms Brilland, explaining that
2. AKA most viewed French film While the idea first appeared in the early 2000s, many people in the village looked at La Grange
The high-octane (and very violent) the concept really took off in the mid-2010s and Epicurienne suspiciously, believing it was a
action film AKA, starring Alban Lenoir skyrocketed during Covid when confinement hotbed for extra-marital affairs or unconventional
(also the film’s co-writer) and former periods became the norm. sexual practices.
footballer-turned-actor Eric Cantona, Seven hundred such places are estimated to The couple said they refuse single nights booked
has become the most viewed French film exist around the country, taking inspiration from a by more than one couple in practices known as
on Netflix worldwide. popular concept that emerged in Japan or Brazil. libertinism or candaulism and they consider that
In the first ten days after its release onto The marketing behind ‘love rooms’ plays on to be a separate business.
the streaming platform, it attracted 81.85 France’s 50% divorce rate by offering an experience However, other entrepreneurs have played on
million hours of viewing (Netflix’s gauge meant to pull couples out of their daily routine; erotism and a derivative of ‘love room’ called ‘secret
of a film’s popularity). a sure-fire romance killer. room’. These are rooms with a hidden room meant
It tells the story of a secret agent “The promise we sell is to take couples away from to hide more erotic activities, often including a
(Lenoir) embedded in a mafia organisa- their everyday life,” said Samuel Deleu, director of BDSM ‘Saint Andrew’s cross’ or sex toys.
tion led by a godfather (Cantona). Love’nSpa, a website cataloguing most of France’s “Erotism is pushed further than in love rooms,”
These impressive figures mean AKA love rooms, and the owner of four bespoke love said Mr Deleu, adding that only 50 of them were
now ranks ahead of the hitherto most rooms himself. The term is basically a marketing listed on his website in a figure he estimated repre-
streamed French film, the 2022 Omay Sy trick encompassing what hotels and sites such as sented 5% of the total market.
vehicle Loin du périph. Booking have characterised as “room with a private Anyone expecting the promise of an easy financial
guage’, while the 10-room tour tackles jacuzzi”, said Mr Deleu. bonanza could be deluded since the business
3. Grape escapism themes including the Nazi project in Love’nSpa lists 600 of France and Belgium’s love requires solid entrepreneurial spirit and good
A glossy mini-series about wine-tasting Europe in the 1930s; France from 1940 rooms and reunites owners through blogs, articles, practical knowledge, says Mr Deleu. He cites the
(it is more riveting than it sounds!), to 1944 (the French under Vichy and the advice and questions about the activity, with example of a love room business unable to repair a
now streaming on Apple TV+, is sure to Occupation, the Resistance, repression); Mr Deleu adding around 15 newcomers every leak in a jacuzzi, which was doomed to make a loss
appeal to Connexion readers who fancy deportation and extermination; the month. [Love’nSpa is not to be confused with due to the high cost of professional interventions.
themselves as oenophiles. Drops of God Liberation and the post-war period. Love&Spa which is a love room in Avignon The Brillands are already looking to expand La
(Provence-Alpes-Côtes d’Azur]. Grange Epicurienne, as they have signed a sales

4
Occitanie, Hauts-de-France, Provence-Alpes-Côte- contract with a barn owner.
Main image: Robe Marguerite Socié; inset photo: Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation

d’Azur and Nouvelle-Aquitaine are four regions with “We want to build something more. Not a
the most love room listings on the website, ranging love room but something rather more familial,”

“
from 53 (Occitanie) to 80 (Provence-Alpes-Côte- said Ms Brilland.
d’Azur). Centre-Val de Loire has the lowest number
at 23 while Normandy has 41.
Proof of the current buzz for this trend is the
8% growth Mr Deleu generates from his four
locations, a steady increase ever since he joined
the business after being a client himself. A one- Many people in the village
night stay costs between €200 to €900.
This is also how couple Emanuelle and Rudy looked at it suspiciously,
Brilland opened La Grange Epicurienne, a love
room in La Ferrière-Bochard (Orne), last believing it was a hotbed
September after Mr and Ms Brilland saw the
financial potential behind the concept – they of extra-marital affairs
were clients themselves for nearly 10 years.
La Grange Epicurienne, a 100m2 room comprising or unconventional
a sauna and swimming-pool in a transformed barn,
can be booked 15 nights per month with prices sexual practices
12 Recipes connexionfrance.com French

Go wild with glorious ga

In her book on the joys of cooking with garlic, Jenny Linford explores
its versatility in world cuisine. Here are some of her French favourites

G
arlic is audacious. Its pungent scent and pow- leaves, though the plant itself is thought to be native to
erful flavour – with each small clove packing Central Asia. Otherwise known as allium sativum, garlic’s
a huge punch – have aroused strong feelings powerful flavour is released through crushing and chop-
throughout history. This is an ingredient ping. One of the pleasures of cooking with it is learning
which, at times, has been scorned by the how to adjust the level of ‘garlic power’ as required. For
upper classes in society, and frowned upon by a number example, keeping a garlic clove whole makes it less power-
of the world’s religions. ful than cutting it into small pieces, in order to subtly
On the other hand, garlic’s extraordinary ability to trans- infuse but not overwhelm a dish. A whole garlic clove fried
form and invigorate dishes has made it a much-loved and in oil but then discarded, with the flavoured oil then used
essential flavouring in kitchens around the world. There is for cooking, is an effective method of adding its distinctive
a distinctly democratic streak to its universal popularity; taste discreetly.
eaten with relish by the poor in many countries for many A whole garlic clove placed in the cavity of a chicken
centuries, it has long been known to ancient civilizations, before roasting has a similar effect, as has adding one to a
including those of China, India, Egypt, Greece and Rome. slowly simmered casserole or sauce. Rubbing a salad bowl
The name ‘garlic’ originates from the Anglo Saxon word with a peeled garlic clove is a classic and elegant way of
‘gar’ meaning spear, a reference to the shape of the plant’s adding garlic notes.

Garlic preparation and storage

to dry out after harvesting by the growers. An exception
When it comes to cooking with garlic, part of its versatility to this is new-season ‘wet garlic’ (sometimes called green
as a flavouring is that you can adjust the strength as garlic) which is freshly harvested. Try and use this as soon
required. Breaking down the garlic cells as you chop or as possible before it begins to dry out.
crush a clove causes an enzyme reaction creating the com- One traditional way of storing garlic is in plaits or braids,
pound which gives garlic its distinctive smell and flavour. and garlic farms often sell their wares in this form. These
So, when just a discreet garlic touch is required, adding a are generally made by the garlic growers themselves from
whole clove, unpeeled or peeled, to a dish such as a ragu softneck garlic, using the long stalks of the garlic to plait/
works well. For gloriously powerful garlic, however, braid the heads together once it has been dried.
crushed garlic is often called for. Appealingly rustic, a plait/braid of garlic hung from a
There are myriad garlic presses, crushers and mincers hook in the kitchen out of direct light is picturesque and
out there to help you in this task. Their popularity is partly allows for air to circulate and keep the garlic dry.
to do with people wishing to avoid their hands smelling of Garlic can be frozen peeled or unpeeled, as whole cloves,
garlic, as well as their ease and speed of use. One way to chopped, or in paste form. If freezing, bear in mind that
get rid of the smell is simply to rub your hands on some- the odour can permeate other ingredients, so be sure to
thing made of stainless steel. It is possible to buy odour- store it in a well-sealed container or wrap it in a couple of
removing stainless steel ‘soap’ bars specifically for layers of plastic sandwich bags, clingfilm or plastic wrap
this purpose. or parchment paper.
Going against garlic crushers is the fact that cleaning some A delicious way of preserving the flavour of garlic is
of these gizmos can be fiddly and, all too often, pieces of to make garlic-infused oil. While this is a straightfor-
garlic are left behind in the gadget. An easy, gadget-free ward process, a few simple but important steps need to
way of crushing garlic, favoured by many chefs, is to place a be followed to make it correctly and safely and prevent
peeled, chopped clove on a chopping board, sprinkle over a any toxins from forming. Fry the garlic cloves gently in a
pinch of salt (which helps break it down), cover it with the little olive oil, stirring them often to prevent them from
broad side of a large knife, then press down hard repeatedly browning, for around three minutes until fragrant. Add in
onto the blade, crushing the garlic into a paste. the remaining olive oil (for the quantity required) to the
When buying garlic, choose heads that are firm and pan and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the oil well, allow
plump, avoiding any that look dried out and shrivelled. to cool and pour into a dry, sterilized glass bottle. Store in
The best way of storing garlic is to keep it in dry, cool, and the fridge and consume within a week.
ideally dark conditions, for example, in a basket, ceramic It is also possible to infuse vinegar with garlic. Use a
pot or a breathable mesh bag inside a cupboard. Storing good quality vinegar and be sure to check the label to
garlic in the fridge encourages it to sprout and is not ensure that the vinegar has an acetic acid content of at
advised. Usefully, whole garlic heads and loose garlic least 5 per cent (which makes it hard for microorganisms
cloves stored correctly will keep well for several weeks. to survive) and for best results heat the vinegar before
The majority of garlic we buy has already been allowed steeping the garlic.

CHICKEN WITH 40 CLOVES OF GARLIC

Yes, this is truly a dish for garlic lovers! Pot-roasting the bird makes for tender, flavourful chicken, aromatised
with tarragon. Serve the cooked whole garlic cloves with the chicken so that guests can squeeze the softened
garlic out of the skins as a rich and tasty accompaniment

Ingredients (serves 6)
1.8kg free-range chicken 3. Meanwhile, heat the casserole dish on the stovetop.
25g butter Transfer the browned chicken to the casserole dish. Tuck
1 tablespoon olive oil some of the garlic cloves into the cavity, sprinkle the rest
40 garlic cloves, separated but unpeeled around the chicken and pour over the vermouth or wine.
100ml vermouth or dry white wine Allow to sizzle briefly, then pour in the buttery juices
freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon from the frying pan/skillet, the lemon juice and stock.
200ml good-quality chicken stock Add the tarragon, placing a few sprigs inside the cavity.
a handful of fresh tarragon sprigs 4. Bring to the boil on the stovetop, then cover with the
salt and freshly ground black pepper lid and transfer the casserole to the preheated oven. Bake,
a lidded flameproof casserole dish covered, for 1 hour 20 minutes –1 hour 30 minutes until
the chicken is cooked through and the juices run clear. Garlic by Jenny Linford,
Method 5. Transfer the chicken to a serving dish. Use a slotted spoon published by Ryland
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) Gas 4.. to transfer the garlic cloves to the dish. Peters & Small.
2. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat the butter Pour the juices into a serving jug/pitcher to use as a gravy, Photography by Clare
and olive oil in a large frying pan/skillet. Add the chicken skimming off any excess fat. Serve the chicken with the Winfield © Ryland
and brown on all sides. Save the pan juices. garlic cloves and gravy. Peters & Small
 Living I July 2023 connexionfrance.com Food notes 13

arlic

Main photo: PhotosDo_shutterstock / Inset: Amora

GRILLED WILD GARLIC MUSSELS
A rich, tasty way to serve mussels, this offers a great contrast of textures
between the crunchy crumb crust and the juicy mussel flesh below.

Nothing beats a
simple, delicious
homemade mayo;
inset, Amora is France's
favourite bottled brand

Pass the mayonnaise... or

should that be Bayonnaise?
In our regular sideways look at foodie tales, we explore
the multitude of backstories for the ever-popular sauce
Then we have several potential French
origins: is it from magnonaise, from the
Food notes

F
Ingredients (Serves 4 as an appetizer verbs magner (‘hurry’) or manier (‘com-
or 2 as a main) 15g wild garlic leaves (ramps), thor- bine’), as 19th century culinary pioneer
oughly rinsed and very finely chopped or such a commonplace, every- Antonin Carême believed? Or perhaps it
1kg mussels 60ml cup extra virgin olive oil day condiment, mayonnaise – stems from moyeunaise or moyennaise,
30g fresh breadcrumbs salt and freshly ground black pepper the fridge-friendly combination based on moyeu or moyen, referring to
of oil, vinegar and egg yolks that an egg yolk in old French, according
Method
we so liberally slather on sand- to chef and writer Prosper Montagné
1. Rinse the mussels well under cold running water, discarding any which are open or
wiches – has umpteen disputed (1865-1948). Another possible is
cracked. Scrub thoroughly to remove any beards or grit.
possible origins, with both the magnonnaise, linking it to the
2. Put the cleaned mussels in a large pan, adding cold water to a depth of 2.5cm/1in.
French and Spanish laying Lot-et-Garonne village of
up the side of the pan. Set the pan over a medium heat, cover and cook the mussels
claim as its rightful heir. Magnon (now the village
for around 5 minutes, until they have steamed open.
There is a cupboard of Fauillet). Or is it a mis-
3. Drain the mussels, discarding any that haven’t opened during the cooking process.
full of possible origins, spelling of an emulsified
4. Once the mussels are cool enough to handle, pull one half of each shell off each
all seemingly plausible. sauce from Bayonne
mussel, leaving the mussel anchored in the remaining half. Place the mussels,
The first theory – and called Bayonnaise?
shellside down, on a baking sheet.
the one often awarded We may never know but
5. Mix together the breadcrumbs, wild garlic or ramps and olive oil, seasoning with salt
the most authority by the one fact in indisputable: the
and freshly ground pepper. Spoon a little of the breadcrumb mixture over each
Spanish, if not by the French! French love it – shop-bought
mussel, so that it forms a topping.
– is that its name comes from mayo brought in €582million
6. Preheat a grill or broiler to its highest setting and cook the topped mussels for 2–3
Mahón, the capital of Menorca in sales in France in 2021, with Amo-
minutes until the crumb topping turns golden brown. Serve at once.
the Balearic Islands, nabbed from ra's Dijon mayonnaise the market leader.
the British by Marshal Richelieu in Our advice is to skip the store and make
WILD GARLIC SALMON EN PAPILLOTE 1756. The returning Richelieu would
have surely come home gushing about the
your own (add lemon, garlic or herbs at
will) – it's an absolute delight for dipping
Cooking fish en papillote, that is mahonesa he had tasted, made in Menorca cold prawns and other seafood platter
‘wrapped in a parcel’, is a great using just eggs and oil. favourites into... and so simple to make.
way of retaining both flavour
and moisture. This recipe is for
salmon, but other fillets of fish,
such as sea bass, would also
Gadget inspector Now available
work well. Serve the salmon
with new or mashed potatoes
and green beans as an elegant
dinner party dish.
Ingredients (Serves 4)
40g butter, softened
10g wild garlic leaves, finely
chopped
grated zest of 1 lemon
4 salmon fillets (each around
Photo: metriognome_shutterstock

175g)
2 tablespoons dry white wine
salt and freshly ground black
pepper 90-second pizza in a Made Good for the gousse: black
4 squares of parchment paper,
30 x 30cm/ 12 x 12in.
in France passion project garlic in handy packs
We love to support a Made in France White garlic, harvested in the Drôme,
culinary start-up, and this easy-to-use, is matured at low temperature for several
Method
wood-fired Branner pizza oven is a great days, giving it charcoal-coloured cloves,
1. Preheat to oven to 220°C (425°F) Gas 7.
option for anyone perfecting homemade a subtle taste and a melt-in-the-mouth
2. Mix together the butter, wild garlic or ramps and lemon zest.
margheritas this summer. Founders Wilson texture. This is black garlic (ail noir),
3. Fold each piece of baking parchment in half. Place each salmon fillet, skin side
and Sandra started making their own fours whose aromas of candied fruit, liquorice
down, on one side of the crease in the paper. Season each fillet with salt and pepper,
(ovens) due to a long-standing love of pizza and balsamic vinegar lend a touch of origi-
spread with a quarter of the wild garlic or ramps butter and spoon over a quarter of
parties. Manufacturing commenced last nality to your cooking. Maison Boutari has
the wine. Fold the paper over the fillets and crimp the edges together, folding tightly.
August and pizzas cook in just 90 seconds! teamed up with olive oil purveyors Emile
4. Place the parcels on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes until puffed up.
Also in blue or red. €499 for a 14-inch oven, Noël to sell the whole heads (€7.90) or
Serve at once, opening each parcel at the table.
utensils and recipe book, from branner.fr gousses (cloves, €8.90). www.emilenoel.com
14 Cider connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

‘Gastronomic’ Cotentin cider on the rise

Emerging from the dioxide. We wait about eight weeks for

Main photo: Julien Charles; Others: Mathilde Mochon

bubbles to form before marketing.”
apple tree shadow of Specifically, brut ciders undergo a
four-month fermentation while extra-
the cider region of brut ciders require five to six months.
A sweeter demi-sec is also produced
Calvados, the more but isn’t DPO. Extra-brut, 5,5% alcohol,
uses more bitter apples, notably Belle
bitter version made Fille de la Manche and Peau de Chien.
“Once in the bottle, these ciders can age
in Cotentin is a great and be preserved,” says Aurore. “Some
extra-bruts can be kept for twenty years.
accompaniment to They’ll improve over time.
“In fact, the extra-brut classification
many dishes, discovers was specifically created for the Cotentin
Patrice Bertrand PDO and didn’t exist before. Now,

I
it’s almost everywhere in Brittany
or the Auge Valley, but it originated
n Bricqueboscq, on the road linking in Cotentin.”
Barneville-Carteret to Cherbourg, These ciders are consumed chilled
in the western Cotentin peninsula, at 10 -12° and served in tulip-shaped,
you arrive at the Cidrerie le Père stemmed glasses. As for the marriage
Mahieu through a small 16th of extra-brut with fish and seafood, it is
century hamlet with granite houses. indeed perfect. [Following our visit at
In this picturesque landscape, Aurore Cidrerie le Père Mahieu, my wife and I
Pismont and her husband Laurent Robin verified this at a Cherbourg restaurant
produce cider that is radically different serving Père Mahieu ciders and were
from the classic ciders of Brittany or the favourably impressed. With seafood,
rest of Normandy: Cotentin PDO cider, extra-brut is worthy of a fine dry or
heir to a savoir-faire dating back to the sparkling wine.]
12th century, using apple varieties with The French cider trade association
poetic names such as Peau de Chien UNICID notes: “like champagne, the
(Dog Skin), Belle fille de la Manche extra-brut, with no perceptible sweet-
(Beautiful girl from the Manche), ness, is increasingly being produced.
Sans Pareille (Unrivalled) or Tête de Cider has a rustic image that should
Brebis (Sheep’s head). be preserved – that’s its charm and
“When people come here, we tell them personality – but we’re moving from
they’re about to taste a cider that’s some- table ciders to gastronomic ciders.”
what special because they’re used to rath- With its organic orchard, La Cidrerie
er sweet ciders associated with crêpes,” le Père Mahieu produces around 50,000-
says Aurore Pismont. “But, unlike Pays created in the Middle Ages when the first Clockwise, from above: grassy surface preserves them before col- 60,000 bottles annually (brut, extra-brut
d’Auge cider which is rounder, sweeter, apple trees from northern Spain arrived. the ripe apples are lection. They’re sorted to remove rotten and demi-sec) but also Calvados, the
and perfect for desserts, Cotentin cider Cotentin cider has long had its fervent collected by machine apples, washed twice and then chopped. apple juice and brandy aperitif pommeau,
is slightly bitter and astringent. These are admirers, among the most notable being once they have fallen “Next is ‘marquage’, a stage where the apple juice, cider vinegar, jelly, cider

“
King François I, who, during a trip there to the ground, before apple ‘marc’ (chopped apples) is left in brandy and even apple flour made
in 1532, tasted it and reportedly said: being chopped and contact with the air for about two hours. with marc remains after production.
“I’ve never seen such ugly apple trees left to oxidise; Aurore This oxidation gives the cider its future The price of bottles at the Cidrerie
give such good cider!”. In the town of Pismont and Laurent orange colour. Also, in contact with air, are: €5.30 for demi-sec and €6.10 for
Valognes, a regional cider museum Robin from Cidrerie the apples’ cells explode and release the brut and extra-brut. They are sold in
The cellar plays an (unfortunately closed until 2024 for
renovation) pays tribute to this ancient
Le Père Mahieu; a
refreshing glass of
future organoleptic flavours of cider.
“Then, we send the marc to the press,
bars, restaurants, gourmet and organic
stores, locally and throughout France,
important role. The tradition: it boasts the richest French
collection dedicated to cider.
their crisp cider in our case a membrane press. Next,
the juice is collected and cooled
with some sales abroad.
As for the non-AOP, there is
bubble acquires a Renowned, but located far from the
main trade routes, the production of
immediately to control fermentation
and transferred to fibreglass vats in the
a draft version, sold on tap in bars and
restaurants as well as mini-barrels for
patina, the cider cider from Cotentin was confined to
small family farms and only sold in local
cellar for the first fermentation of three
to six months. Then, the juice is bottled
drinking at home. Finally, the PDO
producers have launched vieillissement
gains roundness markets until the early 2000s. It found a
new lease of life in 2017, when awarded
and corked, and there begins the second
fermentation where the yeast feeds on
prolongé (extended ageing), a mode of
purchasing whereby customers order
and complexity the coveted PDO label, held by some ten
French ciders such as those from Pays
the sugar and naturally produces carbon young ciders (primeur) which are aged
in the cellar for two to three
d’Auge or Cornouaille in Brittany. Today, years before shipping.
gastronomic ciders which exist in two roughly ten Cotentin producers make “Each cellar has a unique
categories: brut and extra-brut. I recom- cider under this label adhering to strict microbiological environment
mend drinking brut with Camembert specifications: among other constraints, with bacteria that contribute to
cheese or charcuterie and extra-brut with it must be made in the Cotentin geo- the ciders’ ageing and give them
seafood or Normandy oysters, such as graphical area, from pure cider apple a particular taste,” says Aurore.
those from Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. It’s a juice from the region. “Once, we did an experiment.
change from the usual Sauvignon Blanc.” Above all, it must be naturally sparkling We took a thousand litres of one
In France, cider is an alcoholic and not artificially carbonated. The of our colleague’s cider and gave
beverage – usually between 2% Cotentin Cider PDO notes that him a thousand litres of ours to
and 8% – made from the only 3% of ciders in France age in each other’s cellar. Ours
fermented juice of apples. are naturally sparkling. The took on the taste of his and his
The most famous is from other 97% are carbonated. the taste of ours. The cellar plays
Brittany and Normandy, The PDO producers an important role. The bubble
particularly from the Pays make around 150,000 acquires a patina, the cider gains
d’Auge in Calvados, where bottles annually and the roundness and complexity. This
it’s known as ‘L’Or blond manufacturing process, in really sets it apart from other
des Normands’ (The blond principle, hasn’t varied for ciders. From one producer to
gold of Normans). centuries. “Today, we harvest another, they’re never the same.”
Less well-known is cider the apples by machine,” says She adds: “indeed, in
from Cotentin – technically in Aurore, whose father, Alain Normandy, they say that in
Normandy but in the Manche depart- Pismont, bought the Cidrerie, created in every bottle of cider, there’s a
ment – yet it’s been produced for quite 1920, from the Mahieu family in 2006. little man.”
some time. According to local historians, “We harvest them on the ground, in the
the peninsula’s first cider presses were grass, because we want ripe apples. The www.leperemahieu.com
July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Wine and Cheese 15

Photos courtesy of Charcutere Catalane Bonzom

The blusher’s guide to rosé wine
Jonathan Hesford on how to stay in the pink this summer, even with added ice cubes

Images: Jonathan Hesford

A year in the vineyard

W
hen people think of
wines for summer it’s
nearly always rosé
that comes to mind
these days. The
increase in its popularity (and prices)
has been a phenomenon. Unlike the
rosés and ‘blush’ wines made in
Cheese of California and other New World regions,
French rosés are almost exclusively dry
Meet the producers the month:

H
wines, making them more suitable to
drink with a meal than at a party.
igh up in the Pyrenees, Cavalier du It is hard to find out much about rosé
very near the Spanish
frontier, is the village of
Larzac from any wine book published more
than a decade ago. Rosé wines were usu-
Saillagouse (Pyrénées- ally just dismissed as having little flavour
Orientales) which has a or mentioned as an afterthought. In the
charcuterie shop, Charcuterie Bonzom, 2001 edition of The World Atlas of Wine,
Photo: Fromagerie Le Chat-Bo

run by the Bonzom family. “We do I found statements such as ‘Provence...

everything, we raise the pigs ourselves a region whose most distinctive offering
and make all the hams, sausages and was for long an excess of over-strong
other charcuterie ourselves,” says Brice. and under-flavoured rosé’ before
His parents Bernard and Josy founded focusing several paragraphs on the new
the business in 1981 and have won hand- wave of ‘seriously interesting reds’.
fuls of medals and prizes. Now their son A co-operative of 35 Nowadays, focus in Provence is very
Brice and his wife Carole have joined producers from the Causse much pink and wine writers are keen
the enterprise. “We believe in keeping du Larzac and Monts du to extol its virtues.
everything local. We buy beef, lamb and Lévézou, formed in 1998 Although almost every region of
poultry from other local farmers and in Aveyron, proudly places France makes rosé wines, Provence
we sell everything we make in our shop.” ewe’s milk front and centre is viewed as the home of French rosé, du-Rhône, Mediterrannée, and Alpilles. Even in the north-east of France you
They have already won three silver of their cheesemaking producing light, refreshing wines with Heading further west, in the Côtes can find rosés made from Pinot noir
medals this year from the Concours exploits (berger means a pretty, pale salmon-pink colour. The du Rhone, Tavel and Lirac are two well- in Alsace, Poulsard in the Jura and
Général Agricole 2023 for their verrine shepherd). main grape varieties used are Cinsault known AOPs offering more full-bodied Mondeuse in Savoie, but don’t expect to
de fromage de tête (pig’s head pâté), Among the Bergers du and Grenache, often blended with (and higher alcohol) rosé wines made find the sunshine of Provence or Corsica
pâté de campagne and ‘Jésus Cerdan’ Larzac’s exceptional from- Mourvèdre, Syrah and Tibouren. Some primarily from Grenache noir. The in these often tart wines which need a
(a rough-textured dried pork sausage ages is Cavalier du Larzac, chateaux put a lot of effort into their Languedoc and Roussillon have seen a bit of cheese or charcuterie to balance
with black pepper). which is ‘thermised’ (a rosé, producing classy, prestige wines big shift from red to rosé in recent years, out the acidity.
They sell very little to hotels and restau- method of sanitizing in distinctive designer bottles. producing wines in many different In the heat of summer we get more
rants, although the online boutique func- raw milk with low heat, A handful of estates belong to an shades of pink from varieties originally thirsty so it’s wise to look for ways to
tions very well. “During Covid we kept just below pasteurisation historic exclusive club, similar to the planted to make red wine. reduce or slow down our alcohol intake.
the business afloat by delivering to peo- temperature) with added classed growths or grand crus of Those include Grenache, Cinsault, Choosing wines from cooler climates in
ple. Otherwise we would have gone ferments – living bacteria Bordeaux, although their classification Mourvèdre and Syrah as in Provence the north of France for their naturally
under,” adds Brice. to allow natural curdling. is a century younger and much less but also Carignan, Merlot, Cabernet lower alcohol content is an obvious way
They have an extraordinary range of The result is a smooth, respected. Examples are Château Minuty Sauvignon as well as almost white wines to do that but just check the levels on
handmade products in their shop; magret fine-textured cheese with and Domaine de la Croix. They have made from pink-skinned grapes like the bottle because today, with climate
de canard séché, foie gras, dried beef, wild a fresh taste on the palate. been eclipsed by the commercial success Grenache gris and Carignan gris. change and improved viticulture, grow-
boar sausages, a huge range of different www.fromages- of Miraval (Brad Pitt’s estate) and It’s worth noting that the rapid shift ers are able to produce stronger wines
dried hams and sausages, boiled hams bergersdularzac-aveyron.fr Château d’Esclans (producers of from red to rosé production, using even in traditionally cool climates.
and fresh sausages, meat casseroles in Whispering Angel). the same vineyards, has had var- In addition, the higher acidi-
jars, plus fresh local meat. They also sell Local speciality: The AOP Côtes de Provence is the iable success. Some producers ty of these wines makes
other local products including cheese.
They can organise group visits (phone Mackerel in biggest and best known appellation
(perhaps because it covers the Côte
have resorted to achieving
the desired pale colour by
them less easy to quaff
on their own.
ahead on 04 68 30 14 27) to the drying Sancerre wine d’Azur) but other AOP wines from bleaching the wine by fin- Some innovative
rooms to see how the hams and sausages Coteaux d’Aix en Provence in the west ing with carbon powder producers have brought
Photo: Bien Manger

are made. “It’s a completely natural and Coteaux Varois inland from Toulon. and adding larger doses of out de-alcoholised
process, and for large hams, can take The tiny AOP of Bandol is famous for sulphites, which results in wines aimed at summer
up to five years.” darker, more serious Mourvèdre-based chemical-tasting wines. drinking, meaning you
Their shop includes a salle de dégusta- rosés. In the neighbouring Vaucluse As befitting a holiday can find refreshing wines
tion (tasting room) where you can order For some, tinned mack- department, you will find similar wines island, Corsica produces a fair with only 7-9% alcohol.
plates of charcuterie and cheese for €9 erel fillets are a mere store labelled as Côtes de Ventoux and Côtes amount of rosé under the AOPs Most French supermarkets
each. Bread and wine comes free with cupboard back-up, but du Luberon In addition, there are a sev- Vin de Corse, Patrimonio stock the popular low-alcohol wine
each order. “We also get lots of tourists for the French there is no eral regional wines made in and around and Ajaccio the IGP L’Ile de Beauté with added grapefruit juice called
here in the summer. People are sick of excuse for not sourcing the Provence. They tend to be lower priced using Nielluccio (better known as Pamplemousse Rosé which even I,
industrial foods, they want to know food very best of these preserved and less rewarding, with some maintain- Sangiovese in Italy) and the native as a wine purist, admit to enjoying
is all natural, high quality and made by poissons when knocking up ing the perception that rosé is dilute and Sciacarello grapes which can make at the appropriate time.
hand. But pricing is sensitive, we make a quick salad or pasta dish. boring. They are labelled IGP Bouches- spicy, low acid coral-coloured rosés You can always reduce the alcohol

“
sure to offer very good value prices.” The brand Pointe de Pen- perfect for summer quaffing. content at home by adding sparkling
For the future he says the family aim march has been a reputable In the south west and Bordeaux, water to make a rosé spritzer. Once only
to stay local, and continue enjoying close Breton purveyor of canned darker coloured rosés are made from seen in South Africa and California,
relationships with regular customers. fish since 1920 and is now the common grape red varieties Merlot, it’s no longer regarded as naff to add
“Short circuit retail is our strength. based at Pointe de Pen- Cabernet sauvignon, Malbec and an ice cube to your glass of wine. If the
That, and staying traditional.” marc’h near Douarnenez, Cabernet franc. wine has enough character, one or two
www.charcuterie-catalane-bonzom.com Finistère. As well as elegant The Loire Valley is home to several ice cubes won’t really dilute the flavour.
recipes that lend extra Some chateaux put a famous rosés from Anjou, Saumur and It also keeps the wine chilled in the
layers of flavour to their Touraine made from Cabernet franc, glass even when drinking in the sun.
mackerel (such as Sancerre lot of effort into their Gamay and Pinot noir. Beware though,
wine and aromatics) they Rosé d’Anjou is sweet whereas Cabernet Jonathan Hesford has a Postgraduate
also sell quality tuna, rosé, producing classy, d’Anjou is dry. The wines tend to have Diploma in Viticulture and Oenology
sardines, fish soups and lower alcohol and more acidity than from Lincoln University, New Zealand
various apéritif spreads. prestige wines in those from further south, making them and is the owner, vigneron and wine
€4.55 for a 176g tin, from more suitable to drink with food rather maker of Domaine Treloar in the
www.bienmanger.com designer bottles than on their own. Roussillon. www.domainetreloar.com
 16 Interiors connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

A stylish retreat in the Landes of plenty

The leading interior by which they open and close as seamless-
ly as possible to keep draughts out.
designer Benji Lewis has I’m also fanatical about period flooring –
tomettes – stone or parquet, so when
owned a dreamy home my horrid 1970’s tiles get lifted, they’ll be
replaced with something that’s in keeping
in Les Landes for 25 with the period of the home.

years. Here he reveals How did you come up with the

themes and colours for the rooms?
its evolution and And do you often redecorate?
So far I’ve interfered very little with the
offers renovation tips décor I found when I bought the house;
for example, in my bedroom I like the
for Connexion readers

[Kodak Ektachromth (cooking range)

T
1950’s apple green and cream wall paper,
All photos courtesy of Benji Lewis except portrait, by François Bres

but the room needs re-wiring. Once that’s

rained at London’s KLC School done, however, I’ll likely re-hang wallpa-
of Interior Design, Benji Lewis per in there, probably in the same colour-
enjoyed a spell at Bonhams way and in a not dissimilar floral pattern.
auctioneers, which inspired in Elsewhere I’ve gone with clean white –
a huge interest in the world of I live on the edge of the Basque Country
period furniture and furnishings – which where I adore going on road trips, so
inevitably served not only his long and using white in my rooms makes me think
successful career as a leading interior de- of the plethora of white houses you see
signer but also the renovation and design down there.
of his beloved home in France.
Connexion asked him about the project’s What tips do you have for finding
back story and his approach to remodel- furniture and craftsmen?
ling an old stone house... As an interior designer I’m fanatical about
ensuring that furniture really fits perfectly
Where is your property located? into spaces, so as soon as I bought the
The house is on a village high street in an house I engaged an architect to draft the
area called the Chalosse which is a small rooms to scale so I could get a proper han-
district of rolling hills in les Landes, 45 dle on what would fit where. Whilst I love
minutes from the surf town of Hossegor brocante shopping and I’ve sourced most
and an hour north east of Biarritz. of my furniture second hand, I loathe
things that look randomly place and that
How did you come to purchase it? don’t fit.
I moved to France from London with a I’m not keen on upholstery that’s had it
French partner 25 years ago; he moved either, so if I’m going to buy old sofas or
for professional reasons and I moved with armchairs I’ll always have in mind that
him. The relationship sadly ended but by money will need to be spent on new fab-
then I had started settling in to the area rics and on someone well qualified to
so I stayed put. re-spring so things don’t look threadbare.

What were the key characteristics Do you undertake projects

that made you fall for the property? for clients in France?
There’s a magic about discovering a period Yes, I’ve done a few. Most recently I’ve
property that’s barely changed hands been working for the last five years on
throughout its history and also retained its the entire renovation of a chateau in the
yesteryear charm, but this house ticked Pyrenees. The client’s goal was to remove
both of those boxes; still in the possession all traces of previous questionable renova-
of the same family who had built it in tions and bring the house back into the
1806, the windows had their crinkly old elegant state it had once known.
glass in them, the elegant square room We had all the silly mid-century parti-
proportions were intact and even though tion stud walls removed so proportions
the chimneys weren’t Directoire or Empire were reinstated; cement was stripped from
they are nevertheless over 100 years old, quent generations; they even gifted me the Certain elements at Benji with damp, so my absolute mission is to every wall and replaced with lime mortar;
having formed part of renovations in the mantel clock in the petit salon, saying that Lewis’ beautiful Landes dig down through nasty 1970s tiled floors and modern floors were jackhammered
early 20th century. it needed to stay with the house because it home were retained, such and strip walls back to bare rubble before out to make way for tomettes and carreaux
When I bought the house, the owners had been designed for the room. as the clock in the salon re-applying lime mortar and re-introduc- de ciment. We established sensible ways of
handed me all the paperwork from when (top), the wallpaper in the ing reclaimed terracotta flooring so that in locating bathrooms and loos, the house
it was built. Throughout its history, deeds What were the aims of the master bedroom (above) time my entire home will breathe healthily has been totally re-wired and re-plumbed
were re-written as it passed through subse- renovations? Was it to be a and the tile flooring in the once again. I’ve done a third of the house and I had the first lot of furniture shipped
permanent home or second home? kitchen (below, left) and already and my plan is to get the rest done down from London a few weeks ago.
Photo: Olivier Criquioche

First and foremost, aside from hot water hall; below: the interior starting at the end of this year. We’re sourcing most of the furniture via
and somewhere to cook, I had to get an designer and the rear the auction houses and brocantes, so it’s
office set up in the house which meant courtyard of his property Which aspects of your interiors very much a project after my own heart.
decent desk space and good internet. experience were or indeed are espe-
As a self-employed person there’s never cially useful for a French renovation? What are the most important interior
a break in activities, so whilst it’s lovely I’ve always been sensitive to period con- design considerations for anyone
to consider my French home as a quiet servation and absorbed by the concept of renovating an apartment or house?
retreat, it must also be equipped for me to having a ‘healthy’ house, so when I moved You must get a firm handle on the space
work from. I’d never say never but sadly here I sought out the region’s expert in you have, so engage an architect to draft
it’s likely that the house is only ever going sympathetic restoration. plans of your home – for the sake of a
to be a maison secondaire; current work After hours of chatting with him I was bit of outlay it will pay dividends in the
commitments in the UK mean that visits able to learn some of the things that I long run. Look at how daylight comes into
can only be occasional. know now about what you should and your home – not only from the practical
shouldn’t do if bringing your home into perspective of ensuring you have adequate
What main challenges good nick is your thing. light for day to day tasks, but also from the
did the project pose? point of view of hot sun blasting in; don’t
The removal of damp is my ongoing goal; What original features think it’s going to be nothing but year-
in bygone days cement was viewed as the did you want to retain? round sunshine in your French abode;
solution to all building issues, used for fill- I know it sounds silly when insulation is allow instead for a room where you can
ing cracks as well as encasing homes in such a big talking point, but I’ll definitely hang wet coats and store wellies, France
dreadful hard render. Stone houses like keep my old windows. I’m trying to find and notably southwest France can be
mine suffered horribly as a consequence someone who can restore them in a way very damp!
July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Hidden histories 17
Be like a pilgrim in medieval Toulouse
Medieval art historian Dr Julia Faiers 1
reveals the gory foundations and
glorious history of the church of
Saint-Sernin

S
aint-Sernin in Toulouse is the rue du Taur, Toulouse’s bishop started to
largest Romanesque church in build a new church nearby to honour
Europe. You would think, there- the body of the holy martyr. Of this new
fore, that it would hold the title church, built between the fifth and elev-
of cathedral. Not so. Saint-Sernin enth centuries, very little is known.
is actually a basilica. Saint-Etienne is the Around 1030, the bishop of Toulouse,
cathedral of Toulouse, a church which Pierre Roger, wrote about preserving the
barely registers interest with anyone but ‘gifts made to Saint-Sernin’ during a
the most fervent of heritage hunters. For reconstruction programme that was
in Toulouse the basilica outshines the clearly designed to facilitate the passage
cathedral in every way, by its design, of pilgrims clamouring to see the tomb
its decoration, and most of all by its of Saturnin and the relics of other saints
sheer scale. housed in the crypt (the ‘gifts’ to which
Saint-Sernin has an enormous footprint. Roger refers).
Its nave (which seats the congregation) At the east end of the nave, the floor
stretches a full 115 metres long, and its around the sanctuary with the main altar
walls reach more than 21 metres. Its was raised so that pilgrims could see into
65-metre octagonal bell tower soars the sanctuary as they approached the
above the Toulouse skyline. So how crypt to venerate the relics displayed
and when did this iconic edifice come within. Two passageways accessed the
into being? crypt, one for incoming pilgrims and the
Like many a magnificent medieval other for those leaving: an early one-way
church, the basilica of Saint-Sernin’s ori- system that must have reduced queues to
gin story starts with a violent martyrdom. reach the holy relics.
In the third century, a Christian called Saint-Sernin was a key halt for pilgrims
Saturnin (Sernin in Occitan) was sent making their way to the shrine of Saint

Photo: Julia Faiers

from Rome by the pope to evangelise James in Santiago de Compostela in
Gaul. His mission ended abruptly (in Spain. Pilgrim money helped to fill the
death) following his repeated attempts basilica’s coffers, which the canons then
to convert pagans in Toulouse in 250. duly reinvested in beautifying the build-

Photo: Didier Descouens, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0 licence

While Saturnin was preaching in ing over the coming centuries. The
Toulouse, pagan priests demanded that
he honour the Roman emperor by sacri-
ficing a bull. When Saturnin refused, the
twelfth century in particular saw the
addition of wall paintings on a grand
scale in the transept (the horizontal
2 4
temple priests tied him by his feet to the arms of the cross-shaped building).
sacrificial bull. The written record These survive in fairly good condition
describes how the bull flew into a rage considering they were painted nearly a
and charged down the steps of the tem- thousand years ago and covered over in
ple, upon which Saturnin’s head smashed the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries
open. The bull rampaged through the with limewash. A restoration programme
streets of Toulouse, eventually freeing in the 1970s revealed the original murals,
Photo: BnF ms. Latin 16827 folio 223r. Wikimedia Commons, public domain

itself of the martyr’s lifeless body in the which are full of lively stories recounting
road later named rue du Taur (meaning, the Christian message.
what else, ‘bull’). But there is much more to enchant the
Two Christian women are said to have modern visitor than these colourful
placed Saturnin’s remains in a wooden paintings. Follow in the steps of the

Photo: PierreSelim, Wikimedia Commons, CC0 licence

coffin which they buried in a ditch deep
enough to avoid the malevolent inten-
tions of passing pagans. A fourth-century
medieval pilgrim by entering the basilica
through the splendid Porte de Miègeville,
for example, with its tympanum that nar-
5
bishop built a small church over the rates the story of Jesus’ ascension into
sacred site, believed to be where the heaven. Inside, descend into the two-sto-
church of Notre-Dame du Taur now rey crypt to marvel at the relic chests and
stands, not far from the present basilica statues venerated by countless pilgrims.
of Saint-Sernin. The crypt is accessible all year round,
At the start of the fifth century, to but be aware that the tomb of Saturnin is
accommodate the growing number of only open to the public around the saint’s
pilgrims flocking to the little church in feast day on November 29.

3 1. The basilica of Saint-Sernin seen from the rue du Taur, with its distinctive octagonal bell tower that reaches more
than 60 metres into the Toulouse skyline.
2. A lavish missal produced in 1492 for Jean de Foix, bishop of Comminges (near Toulouse), depicts a lively scene
Photo: Didier Descouens, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0 licence

of the martyrdom of Saint Sernin. Nobles, peasants and soldiers look on as the bishop is tied to the instrument
of his martyrdom, a raging bull.
3. One of the many rewards of looking up in the basilica: a painted wooden miniature model of the church enclosed
by the city walls made in 1528, suspended from the vault. The model was made as an ‘ex-voto’, a gift offered to
the church in exchange for the protection of its worshippers against the Plague.
4. One of the spectacular twelfth-century frescoes discovered in the 1970s under layers of limewash. This scene,
from the Resurrection cycle, painted on a wall in the north transept, shows an angel revealing Christ’s empty
tomb to three holy women.
5. The tympanum over the Porte de Miègeville was sculpted at the end of the eleventh or beginning of the twelfth
century and is an exquisite rendering of Christ’s ascension. The entrance, on the south side of the nave, faces
towards the rue du Taur, where the martyred corpse of Saint Saturnin came to rest.
18 Puzzles connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

Bilingual cryptic crossword by Parolles

Answers are in French and English
Across Down

?
1 State positively when describing clergyman
running back before start of epic downpour 1 Displayed in certain signs in this way
in Avignon (6) in France (5)
4 Worship French king after trouble with 2 Unpredictable fellow welcoming

?
eastern queen (6) strike-breaker (7)
8 Damaged rail not being tested (2,5)
9 Examine a contemptible person without 3 Propose changes to include American
pressure (7) actor originally from Coronation Street
11 Manner of speaking lines about Ampleforth’s for example (4,5)
head coming from a reference book (10)
5 Fine for a foppish silly fellow (5)
12 Science fiction writer ignoring velocity of
sea-eagle (4) 6 Strike before receiving first of injuries from
13 Elodie’s uncle’s joke about Sri Lanka (5) d’Artagnan’s sword (7)
14 That’s after socialist paper from the east’s
found in Delphine’s crèche (8) 7 Bury the hatchet with one cleric abroad (9)
16 Steal from story maintaining bishop’s 10 Foolishly abuse gin and Ecstasy with a
on speed (8) female bather in Nice (9)
18 American writer pinching chestnut from
Arsène’s pocket (5) 13 Begin to speak pompously about soldier back
20 French rhyme about touring even parts of at home (9)
Miami (4)
15 Engineers aim to explain (9)
21 Happen to have foreign editor with special
privilege in France (5-5) 17 René’s to annoy with hesitation to admit
23 Jack surprisingly naive to join Rex for a audacity (7)
month in France (7)
24 Artist Tracey, in South Africa, runs a 19 An eccentric person provided that bit of fun
discussion group (7) in the Welsh capital (7)
25 Exceptionally rare around the Strasbourg 21 Work served up by Gemma regularly
area of France to become someone making on Eliot’s earliest composition in verse
money (6) in France (5)
26 Upper-class chap wearing fleece essentially
made from French fabric (6) 22 Fatima getting to show picture of Berenice (5)

French-themed crossword by John Foley

Note all answers are words or names associated with France
Across Down
2 French fashion designer Pierre ______, 1 Auteur de film (8)
famed for his avant-garde style born in Italy
this month in 1922 (6) 2 English name for red wine, particularly from
Bordeaux (6)
6 Bee product (4)
3 Troop withdrawal or retreat (5)
7 Barrière d’arbustes servant à delimiter un
territoire (4) 4 Quirky and provocative composer Erik
_____ who died this month in 1925 (5)
8 Unit of electric current named after
mathematician and physicist André-Marie 5 Fils du frère (5)
______ (6) 9 Pas urbaine (5)
10 Self-catering accommodation (4) 12 Stormed this month and since 1790
11 Coffee pot (9) commemorated annually (8)
13 Il commence le 21 juin (3) 15 “Si le monde était _____, l’art ne serait pas”
– Albert Camus (5)
14 “Celui qui ouvre une porte d’_____, ferme
une prison” – Victor Hugo (5) 17 According to foodie tradition this shouldn’t
be eaten this month (6)
16 Headland or promontory (3)
18 Work presented for a doctoral degree (5)
20 Freshwater crustacean like a small lobster (9)
19 Comte de Monte-Cristo author born this
22 Of excellent quality: ____de gamme (4) month in 1802 in Villers-Cotterêts (5)
23 Novelist and essayist Marcel ______ born

?
21 Fishing rod (5)
this month in 1871 in Auteuil (6)
24 Water receptacle? (4)
25 Personnage joué par un acteur (4) ?
26 Composer Gabriel Fauré born in Pamiers,
largest city in ______ department in Solve the clues, then unscramble the shaded letters to
Occitanie region (6) reveal a written type of exercice scolaire (12)

Fun French facts Like our quiz?

1 Snap happy 2 Time, please 3 Heady heights Buy our quiz books
Photo: Louis Daguerre

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LOUIS Daguerre’s photo of connexionfrance.com
Photo: Wikimedia/XIIIfromTokyo

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July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Puzzles 19
Toughnut No.No.17
Toughnut 2 – Scribo Crossmots
- Scribo Crossmots Five French Facts:
To complete these dual-language puzzles called ‘Toughnuts’ you need to translate the clue
These dual-language
and then decide wherepuzzlesthe
called ‘Toughnuts’
answer require
fits into you toTo
the grid. translate the first
help the clue and thenofdecide
letter where is
the answer
The unofficial geography of France
the answer fits
provided. in the chance!
Bonne grid. To help the first letter of the answer is provided. Bonne chance! This variegated and complex country could be said to have two intersecting human
Find a location on the Monopoly board from the highlighted squares. geographies: the official and the unofficial; one prosaic, the other imaginary. The former
For more dual-language puzzles see www.crossmots.com is divided into administrative departments and regions with precise boundaries. The latter
A Valediction (5) is best described as a psychological concept, a combination of folk memory and the physical
divisions of the landscape. Here are five parts of France that are cultural, geographic and
A Aide (3)
tourist designations rather than addresses the post office will deliver to. They exist and do
A Mangé (3) not exist at the same time. By Nick Inman
A Nitrogen (5)
C Railways (7,2,3) 1 The Midi The bottom third of France – roughly everything under a line drawn
from Bordeaux to Briançon along the 45th parallel north – is colloquially known
C Crème (5)
by this name which comes from the old French word for “midday”, when the sun
E Exact (5) was due south. It is more or less synonymous with Occitanie (in the linguistic and
F Combattants (8) cultural sense; not to be confused with the modern political region) where Occitan
H Hawaii (6) is traditionally spoken.
I Inde (5) 2 Gascony Tourist promoters and estate agents love this evocative name which
I Israël (6) conjures up images of bucolic living, and the Three Musketeers. Gascogne was an
L Dropping (7,6) ancient province of France that was swallowed up by the kingdom of Aquitaine in
L Lick (6) the 11th century. If there is such a thing as Gascony today it consists mostly of the
Gers department together with a little of the Landes and part of the north of
L Localiser (6) Hautes-Pyrénées.

Photos: All shutterstock - Pictures01 / Viacheslav Lopatin / gary718 / Alain Lauga / rarrarorro
O Ou (2)
P Perpendi- 3 Provence may be the “south of France” that everyone writes home about but it
culairement (13) is really a historical province of France that no longer exists. On a prosaic level the
southeast of the country nudging up to the Mediterranean is now described by the
P Prêtre (6)
mouthful of “Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (PACA)” while incorporating a little bit
R Radio (5) of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.
R Stew (6)
R Tapis (3) 4 The Loire Valley The French don’t generally use the name Val de Loire for the
lower-middle valley of the longest river entirely flowing through France in the same
S Vis (5) way as English speakers do. The declaration of a World Heritage Site covering that
S Located (5) part of the valley studded with royal and aristocratic chateaux has given it more defi-
S Doorbell (8) nition but in reality it is a composite of two regions, four departments and a host of
S Sport (5) ancien régime fiefdoms – especially Anjou, Touraine, the Blésois and the Orléanais.
S Pen (5) 5 The Massif Central is, of course, a highland region of mountains and plateaux
T Pouce (5) in the middle of France. It covers 15% of metropolitan France and is hard to avoid.
T Sort (3) It only became a thing, however, in the 19th century when the name was coined. Its
eastern edge is marked by the Rhône valley but to the north, west and east it peters
U Habituel (5) out unspectacularly. There is not much unifying the five regions and 11 departments
Y Jeunesse (5) that have a stake in the Massif Central except this rather loose geographical term.

Test your knowledge of France

For all answers with our Connexion quiz
please turn to
Guess the region... French Living 1 François Civil joined Vincent Cassel, Romain
Duris and Pio Marmai to save who or what
11 Calling himself Fabulous Fab, this French
Goldman Sachs trader was one of the few
France has 13 regions. Every issue we pick a spot, page 24 this year? A – Louis XIII / B – Notre Dame people convicted for the 2008 US subprime
de Paris / C – food charity spectacular mortgage crisis, what was his real name?
all you need to do is work out which region it is in... Les Enfoirés? 12 Why was Jérôme Kerviel sacked by Société
2 Most people take a week but Katie Schide Générale in 2008?
Clue: Diving south did it last year in under a day… what was 13 This former Rothschild & Co investment
she doing? banker and Economics Minister under
A – Making cassoulet / B – Running the President Hollande went on to greater
Tour du Mont Blanc / C – Completing her things, who is he?
tax form? 14 Was it an Englishman, an Irishman or a
3 Why did Facebook ban an advert with a Scotsman who founded France’s first central
Eugène Delacroix painting in 2018? bank, the Banque Générale Privée, the
A – It showed Mark Zuckerberg as a forerunner of the Banque de France?
cyborg / B – It featured a naked Jesus / 15 When did the Franc become France’s
C – It featured a bare-breasted woman? official currency?
4 The 2,642m Col du Galibier links 16 Frenchman Marc Grégoire’s 1956 idea for a
A – France and Italy / B – Switzerland and telescopic fishing rod became a technology
France / C – Northern and southern Alps? used in kitchens worldwide, what is it?
5 Air fryers are today’s “in” thing… but French 17 In 1924 this blind 15-year-old from
physicist Denis Papin invented the first pres- Coupvray in Seine-et-Marne invented a
sure cooker, the digesteur, long before. When? tool that has helped the blind ever since,
A – 1915 / B – 1868, / C – 1679? who is he and what is the tool?
6 What is special about the Polar Pod oceano- 18 Named Bien-Etre by creator Herminie
graphic vessel designed by Jean-Louis Etienne Cadolle in 1889, this transformed the lives
to circle the Antarctic in some of the highest of women worldwide and became a feminist
waves on Earth? symbol of repression, what is it?
7 One of the stars of 2023’s Armada Rouen 19 Coverage of a different sort was provided
was France’s last three-masted iron-hulled by Jean Marius in 1705 when the purse
barque, what is her name? and clasp maker received a five-year
“patent” from Louis XIV for… what?
8 Le Havre has been chosen to host the start
20 The smart card was invented in 1975 and
of the “world’s most spectacular sailing
its French creator said the greatest honour
event” in 2025. What is it?
he could receive for it would be a wax
9 A song by which American singer was a dummy in the Musée Grévin. Who was he?
tribute to undersea explorer and filmmaker
Jacques-Yves Cousteau and his research ship?
10 What is unusual about the Rosnay Marine
Profile
Nationale base where 200 naval personnel Quiz by Ken Seaton who has lived and
keep contact with French submarines? worked as a journalist in France since 2009
20 Reviews connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023
Music
French films French 79 Teenagers
A critical eye on ciné OUR new French music ing name of Marseille-based Simon Henner, piano. Teenage years in rock and hip-hop
releases and classics recommendation this is not banging techno or wild house music. bands as a drummer followed, before he
month will bring you Rather, it's cleverly constructed, melodic moved to Marseille to study, and began
instant kudos with teenage music with serious overtones of the original making music for commercials.
The Night of the 12th family members or friends, master, Jean-Michel Jarre (in whose Paris The swirling, wonky electronic sounds and
Dir: Dominik Moll given that it features one studio the synths were recorded) blended relentless, low-key rhythms that have
of the country's leading with occasional dreamy vocals and a Blade become his blissful, signature sound are at
proponents of electropop. Runner-esque sonic aesthetic. once dynamic yet restful and inspirational.
Be not afraid, though – Henner was born in 1979 in Epinal, Available to stream now on Spotify and
this third studio album by Vosges and after attending music school and buy on CD/album, Teenagers is the sound of
French 79, the stage/record- a conservatoire he studied percussion and cool France in 2023. Touring all summer.

Books - The 20 minute review

We read recent releases with a link to France. To be fair, each gets 20 minutes’ reading time
SEVERAL elements make Dominik
Moll's gripping drama about the police The Paris Apartment, The Widow Clicquot: The Story Provence Style: Decorating
investigation into the brutal murder of a
young woman unique. Firstly, the source Lucy Foley, of a Champagne Empire and the with French Country Flair,
material could not be more authentic and William Morrow, €28.04; Woman Who Ruled It, Shauna Varvel and Alexandra
compelling: the book (titled 18.3) in ISBN: 978-0063003057 Tilar J Mazzeo, Harper Business, Black, Vendome Press, €55;
which Moll found the plot seed for his
film, was Pauline Guéna's account of a €10.66; ISBN: 978-0061288586 ISBN: 978-0865653900
WHEN Jess turns up at her
year spent embedded with the Versailles brother's flat in Paris he is out, THE life story of Barbe- WHETHER your
criminal brigade. so she breaks in and is amazed Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, interest is seriously
In the book, she talks about how every that he could have afforded otherwise known as Veuve exploring interior
police detective becomes so attached to something so flash. But he is not Clicquot (Widow Clicquot) design or just revel-
one case that it stays with them for their there to explain. is inescapably entwined ling in perfect images
whole life. This is especially common As time goes on, she starts to with the birth of of fantasy French
when a crime remains unsolved, and in investigate his disappearance Champagne as we know it. homes, this is the
Moll's film this is made clear from the and realises that the other, The region had always perfect read.
very beginning – what we are about to mostly unfriendly, inhabitants been known for producing Packed with full colour photos,
witness is a crime that will not be solved. of the block all seem to have good flat wines, but exceptionally cold winters mainly of the author's incredibly beau-
This is a clever twist on the neatly tied-up something to hide. were a problem. When temperatures plunged tiful 18th century home in the Rhone
murder mysteries we have come to expect.
There is Antoine the drunk; too low, the fermentation process would stop, Valley, you may even be inspired to
Added to the mix is superb casting.
crazy Mimi; Nick, her brother's only to re-start again when temperatures rose attempt something in the same style.
Bastien Bouillon, as lead detective and
old mate from uni; a snobbish again in the summer. This secondary fermenta- The text explains in detail how the
newly arrived Grenoble brigade chief
socialite; and, of course, a nosy tion in the bottle would produce bubbles, caus- looks were achieved, and discusses the
Yohan, superbly evokes the growing
con- ing a build-up of pressure. Sometimes the bot- way French interior decorating styles
despair as one lead is extinguished, then
cierge. Which one of them holds the key tles would explode, leading to the wine being have evolved over the past 30 years.
another, one suspect freed and then
to the mystery? As she digs further she called le vin du diable (devil's wine). Accompanying the photos of living

Editor’s
another. Equally great is Bouli Lanners
herself is stepping deeper into danger. Seen as faulty by winemakers, by the 17th rooms, bedrooms and bathrooms are
as his career-weary deputy. The film is
This is a fast-paced thriller which will century it was perceived as an amusing novelty well-written essays on materials, water,
as much about the police coping with

choice
the effects of unsolved crime as the vic- keep you guessing right until the end. at the French court. It would take someone and fabrics.
tim's family. Lucy Foley does a neat job of juggling with sharp business acumen and a good nose The house – Le Mas des Poiriers –
This is forewarned when Yohan com- the various points of view and switch- for marketing to change the perception of this was restored as a joint effort involving
pletely freezes whilst telling Clara's parents ing between the past and the present 'faulty' wine. Enter the 27 year-old Veuve an architect, a famous landscape
of the horror that befell their daughter. without ever losing the narrative thread, Clicquot, a single mother with a fledgling wine designer and a large bank balance, so
The Night of the 12th won many top and there are enough red herrings and twists to make the book business bequeathed to her by her late hus- don't be thinking this is any kind of
awards at this year's Césars – justified difficult to put down. band. She persuaded the rich and the famous DIY guide. It is perfect, however, for
honours for the most gripping, original The atmosphere reeks of dark shadows, and is redolent of the to see drinking Champagne as an essential part getting the feel of gracious countryside
and deeply affecting French films in years. classic thriller set in a gloomy country mansion in a thunder- of a celebration, and succeeded brilliantly. living in Provence, and how to approx-
Available to stream on Apple TV+, storm. The apartment block is closed off from the outside The book also looks at her skills as a imate the atmosphere. You can almost
YouTube and Canal Plus. world, and when the setting does shift to the streets of Paris, wine-maker. Veuve Clicquot invented the smell the lavender.
the city has violent undertones. method, still used today, of making There are also some beautiful exteri-
Cinema: Pour l'honneur The book also contrasts the lives of the mega wealthy and the Champagne perfectly crystal clear. A fascinat- or images of the house, the garden and
Comedy-drama about asylum-seekers in less privileged, illustrating how vulnerable people can become ing read about an amazing woman who suc- the pear orchard to inspire your inner
rural France, against the backdrop of a victims while the rich are protected by their power. A worthy ceeded in creating a new luxury product and gardener. Failing that, it's a perfect
grudge rugby match between two villages. follow up to Lucy Foley's earlier mystery, The Hunting Party. became rich in the process. escape from mowing your own lawn!

Nonplussed by French numbers? C'est comme ça! Macron raises bottle but not standards?
the likes of 76 (soixante-seize, or sixty- his presidential status. One ecologist MP
sixteen), 94 (quatre-vingt-quatorze, went even further, calling it an act of ‘toxic
Language notes The French you don’t

O
or four-twenty-fourteen). masculinity in political leadership’. [In the
learn at school

P
‘Vous pourriez répéter plus lentement, s'il interest of balance, let the court of public
ne of the most bafflingly vous plaît?’ is the inevitable follow-up plea judgment note that another left politician,
illogical quirks of the as one tries to ‘do the maths’ at the same resident Macron revealed his Fabien Roussel from the Communist party,
French language – to many time as furiously scribbling. penchant for a photo/video said: ‘Partager un moment de bonheur et

“
an Anglophone’s ear, any- Language noters in extremis, the opportunity when, on June 17, de liesse avec une équipe qui a fait un beau
way – and one which never Académie Française, says that while the he entered the vestiaires (chang- match collectivement, et boire une bière avec
really makes sense even after years of decimal (counting in denominations of ing room) of the rowdy and eux, c’est la France. Ça ne me dérange pas.’
either studying or speaking French, are ten) system words for 70, 80 and 90 (sept- victorious Toulouse rugby team following (‘Sharing a moment of happiness and jubi-
the tricky compound words for numbers ante, octante, nonante) exist in its official their Top14 rugby final win against La lation with a team that has played a great
between 70 and 99. dictionaries – these words are also used in Rochelle at the Stade de France. game collectively, and drinking a beer with
From soixante-dix (which translates
into English as ‘sixty-ten’, for 70) via
It is like parts of Switzerland and Belgium, France
retains remnants of a method of counting
Clutching a fizzy bottle of beer and with
the braying rugbymen imploring him to
them, that's France. It doesn't bother me.’).
The incident also threw an expression into
quatre-vingt (‘four twenty’, meaning 80)
then up to quatre-vingt-dix (‘four
some kind in twenties: “This system, called ‘vicési-
mal’, was used by the Celts and the
drink it down, he proceeded to drain the
contents in one go. For some, the episode
the mainstream media that we probably
never learnt at school, certainly not in this
twenty-ten’, 90) – and all the numbers in-
between – it is like some kind of cruel joke
of cruel joke Normans, and it is possible that one or the
other of these introduced it into Gaul.”
backfired, with the story triggering a pre-
dictable polémique (a word which the
context. The French term for emptying
one's glass or bottle ‘down in one’ is ‘cul-sec’.
being played on poor language learners. played on It could be worse – it was only at the end French use a lot more than we use the Cul is the French for (polite translation) a
Even your Language Noter has mild of the Middle Ages that the French used English version, polemic – meaning a crit- backside (Latin: culus) – here it refers to the
palpitations when hurriedly noting down language 30, 40, 50, etc instead of just the base ical attack), with some left-leaning politi- bottom of the drinking vessel. Sec means
a mobile phone number (usually dictated twenties. So there is no way around it. As cians and media accusing Mr Macron of dry, hence cul-sec means 'dry bottom'. See
in five pairs of two numbers) that contain learners the French also say, c'est comme ça. encouraging binge-drinking and tainting also cul-de-sac: literally ‘bottom of the bag’.
July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Shopping/Did you know? 21
QUOI DE NEUF?

Images: Shuttersock_Leonid Sorokin

New products, designs and ideas from around France

Wonder wall
LOOK at the gorgeous wall in this elegant
chateau lounge, seemingly hewn from ancient
stone to form a delightful contrasting back-
ground for contemporary furnishings. But,
look again – it’s merely a trick of the eye!
This is actually high definition printed wallpaper
(papier peint) made by interiors experts Hexoa,
formed in the Basque country in 2009 and
now based in the Landes. They work with local
graphic designers, artists and photographers
to offer more than 3,000 wall art visuals.
The decorative paintings on printed canvas,

Images: Shuttersock_Petr Kovalenkov

plexiglass or aluminium Dibond are available in
different sizes and the company also offers
framed posters with a natural wood frame (all
raw materials are environ-
mentally friendly and the
wood is FSC® certified).
In terms of dimensions,
one roll (half price at
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is composed of three strips
of 0.53m x 2.80m. Poster
shown, Poire en nature morte
(still-life pear), from €12.90.
hexoa.fr

Winds blow factory fumes eastwards across France. Urban centres to

French vinyl revival Salad days the west of cities like Paris – such as Neuilly-sur-Seine (mairie pictured,
below) are where the wealthiest sectors of the population reside
NO longer simply the domain of hipster youngsters discovering SERVE up your summer salads in style with

Go west: why the wealthy

the joys of physically putting on a record – instead of one-click a fork and spoon set from Sabre Paris, mak-
online streaming – the renaissance of vinyl record buying that has ers of quality tableware since 1993. Stainless
swept France is a hit with music lovers of all ages. Why not treat steel with varnished nylon handle and polka
yourself to a cutting edge Made in France listening experience dot design, priced at €53 in a range of
with this Chroma 400 turntable (platine vinyle), RRP €499.
www.elipson.com
vibrant colours (Bleu Outremer pictured).
sabre-paris.com shun the east of town
granted with great tolerance towards
business creators who could contribute
to economic growth.
Did you know?

P
Chemist Jean-Pierre Darcet was the
first to conduct studies and observations
aris (Île-de-France), Rouen on wind, drawing a polygon which
(Seine-Maritime), Limoges showed that the safest distance to imple-
(Haute-Vienne), Bordeaux ment factories without being affected by
(Gironde)... all of these towns smoke release was in the north-east.
and cities share a common The reason comes from the Channel
trait – all of them have their richest and the Atlantic, with their western
population living on the western side coastlines. Many towns and cities
and the poorest on the east. ordered similar studies and drew the
Western Paris is the most emblematic same conclusions, thus mapping indus-
example of this phenomenon with trial France mostly to the east.
towns such as Neuilly-sur-Seine and “This mostly explained why the rich
Marne-la-Coquette (Hauts-de-Seine) moved toward the west,” said Mr Frioux,
comprising two to four percent of before adding that “it was not the only
France’s highest revenues, while Seine- reason. Doctors developed theories
Local leather looks Saint-Denis only counted 0.3%.
Part of the reason lies high in the
around the development of miasmas in
central towns from lowest air-circulation
IF YOU admire ‘slow fashion’ that combines local French skies and the winds that blow and favoured diseases such as cholera,”
manufacturing, fair prices and European craftsman- from the east, releasing smoke from fac- possibly another explanation of the rich’s
ship, whilst embracing a refined and contemporary tories that were created on eastern and exodus toward the west.
style, then Jules et Jenn probably have the leather northern parts of the country during The explanation also has its limita-
footwear and accessories to suit your style. the Industrial Revolution. The richest tions since other factories were implant-
They use specialist artisans all around France – populations veered towards the western- ed in the west or town centres, such as
as well as in Italy, Spain and Portugal – to make most parts of many towns, looking for the Citroën factory in Paris’ western
trainers, sandals, belts, bags and much more. fresh, clean air away from dust, smoke Javel district in the early 1900s.
Camel sandals shown: vegetable-tanned calf leath- and dirt. But the theory has crossed the
er, decorated with nails, featuring a 6.5cm wooden While these urban characteristics Channel where researchers Stephan
heel €150 (left) and strappy sandals with retro-look makes for great dinner party trivia that Heblich, Alex Trew and Yanos
5.5cm heels and crossed front straps to ensure French people enjoy sharing, it is a bit Zylberberg questioned the same aspect
optimal support and comfort (€125, below). more complicated and less straightfor- after observing the same phenomenon
www.julesjenn.com ward, as a historian told The Connexion: in many English towns and cities.
“Historians do not really have official Researchers compiled data on 5,000
documents stating that factories were factory chimneys near 70 English towns
installed because of winds,” said from 1880 to 1900 and came to the con-
Stéphane Frioux, a lecturer in contem- clusion that: “before coal, unqualified
porary history at Université Lumière workers were not particularly located in
Lyon 2. the east.”
Permits granting the building of Not a straight answer but one with
factories were delivered by doctors enough room to suggest it may have
and chemists in the 19th century, often been the case. Just like in France.
22 History connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

Joseph Kessel, prolific literary

novelist and wartime pilot
Despite a nomadic life that saw him take to the skies in two world wars and marry multiple times, Joseph
Kessel found the time to write 80 critically acclaimed novels. Samantha David recounts his incredible story

J
oseph Kessel (1898-1979) was a pro- weeks he wrote a novel called Wagon-Lit.

Photos: left, Pictorial Press Ltd / Alamy and inset, Hans Pinn, Wikimedia Commons, public domain
lific French novelist and a pilot dur- On his way back to Paris he visited a doc-
ing WW1. He joined the Resistance tor in Annemasse, Alexandre Lapiné, who
during WW2 and was often simply had been present at his birth. He also
called Jef. wrote an article about the téléphérique
He came from a Jewish family; his moth- du Salève, a brand new cable car near
er, Raïssa Lesk, was Russian, and his father, the Swiss border.
Samuel Kessel, was a doctor from He was still working at Gringoire and was
Lithuania which at that time was part of on its prize jury led by Marcel Prévost. As
imperial Russia. After qualifying as a a Jew, he was horrified by the rise of Hitler
doctor in Montpellier, Samuel Kessel in Germany, and when the publication
took up a position in Argentina, where began to take an antisemitic editorial
Joseph was born. The family lived in approach, he resigned. In 1936, he pub-
Russia from 1905 to 1908, when they lished the anti-Fascist novel La Passante
moved back to France. du Sans-Souci.
Joseph was brought up and educated in He married Catherine Gangardt in 1939,
Nice, and later in Paris, but the pattern but they later divorced. By this time, he
was set; he continued travelling almost was working for Paris-Soir, reporting
all his life. on the Spanish Civil War, and then the
In 1914, at the outbreak of WW1, he was Phoney War at the start of WW2. He used
only 16 but volunteered for several months his travels as inspiration for his novels.
as a stretcher-bearer, carrying the wounded After the fall of France, he and his neph-
off the battlefield. Having got his degree in ew, Maurice Druon, joined the Resistance,
literature he flirted with theatre before and eventually crossed the Pyrenees and
enrolling, at the end of 1916, in the army escaped to London. There, they signed up
and subsequently in the air force as a pilot. with the Free French, led by General de
His final military mission took him to Gaulle, and he became an air force pilot
Siberia by way of the US, and from there once more.
onto Vladivostok. In May 1943, in a pub called The White
After the war he got a job as a political Swan in Coulsdon, south London, he and
journalist reporting on foreign affairs and Maurice composed the French lyrics to the
was sent to London, but because he had Chant des Partisans, which became an
no official nationality, he had to forge a iconic rallying song for the Resistance.
passport. As a result, he applied and (The original tune and Russian lyrics
gained French nationality in 1922. In had been written by Anna Marly). By
1921 he married Nadia-Alexandra the end of the war, he had flown many
Polizu-Micşuneşti, a Romanian aristocrat, missions over France, and risen to the
who died of tuberculosis in 1928. rank of captain.
In 1926, he published a novel called While in London, he met his third wife,
Makhno et sa Juive in which he described Michelle O’Brien, who came from Ireland.
the anarchist Ukrainian leader Nestor They remained together, although she
Makhno as a blood-soaked tyrant in love gradually succumbed to alcoholism,
with a young Jewish girl. The book caused prompting her husband to get involved
an uproar and was strongly rejected by in Alcoholics Anonymous and treatment
Nestor Makhno himself, who was living in methods. He published Avec les Alcooliques
exile in Paris. Joseph Kessel Anonymes in 1960.
stuck to his story about hav- After the war, Joseph Kessel
ing heard this version of continued travelling as a
events from an officer journalist, reporting on Above, Film poster husband, she persuades Marcel to commit
in the White Army, the Marshal Pétain trial for the 1967 version murder. During the attack her husband
but it is a widely dis- in 1945, and then the of Kessel’s novel is injured and paralysed from the waist
credited theory. Nuremburg trials. Belle de Jour, down. Her reputation is saved, but she is
In 1928, he caused He reported from starring Catherine sure the maid has guessed the truth and
uproar again with his Palestine and received Deneuve; inset, decides to tell her husband everything. The

“
novel Belle de Jour, the first ever visa to visit Joseph Kessel 1967 film, starring Catherine Deneuve, was
about a bourgeois the newly formed country pictured in 1948 a smash hit, and the title was later used by
woman with secret of Israel in 1948. Brooke Magnanti, for her blog about work-
masochistic desires. They He went to Africa, Burma, ing as a call girl in London. This was in
were turbulent years, but in and Afghanistan as a journalist, turn turned into a TV series called Secret
1923, he published another and all that time he was writing Diary of a Call Girl starring Billy Piper.
novel, L’Equipage, based on his war- literary novels, many of them with themes Le Coup de Grâce (1931) is about a
time experiences in the air force, in par-
ticular expressing his admiration for his
of adventure and travel. In all, he wrote
80 novels, many of which were made
In 1962, he was bromance between two young soldiers,
Hippolyte Bibard and the commander
ex-commander, Captain Thélis Vauchon. It
won the Paul Flat prize from the Académie
into films.
Belle de Jour (1928) was about a woman
elected to the Mehemet Pacha. Their friendship hits the
rocks when they meet a prostitute called
française in 1924, and was subsequently called Séverine who has secret masochistic
desires which she cannot fulfil with her
Académie française, Violette in Beirut. It was made into a
adapted into French films in 1928, 1935, Hollywood film called Sirocco in 1951,
and 1978, as well as into the 1937 husband. She ends up working in a brothel a real mark of starring Humphrey Bogart as an arms
American film The Woman I Love. from 2 to 5 every afternoon, while her hus- smuggler. Two years later, working with his
In 1928, he co-founded a right-wing band is at work. She soon becomes entan- achievement for nephew Maurice Druon, Joseph Kessel
political literary publication called gled with a client, a young gangster called adapted the novel into a three-act melodra-
Gringoire. In 1932, he decided to take time Marcel. The plot thickens as she tries to the son of Russian ma, which was staged at the Théâtre du
out and retired to the Hotel Excelsior in extract herself from this toxic relationship, Gymnase in Paris.
Geneva, where instead of relaxing, in three but in order to guard her secret from her Jewish immigrants Les Cavaliers (1967) was set in the world
July 2023 I French Living connexionfrance.com Local history 23

Photo: The History Collection / Alamy

Photos: left, Ken Broadhurst; inset, Lunetoile

The controversial village
at the heart of France
Annaliza Davis unravels the tale of Bruère-Allichamps’ claim
to be the most central village in France, a story that goes back a
couple of millennia to when Romans set up camp and then stayed
In 1966, mining engineer Georges
Dumont identified Vesdun as the centre,
Secret history of villages

W
and when France’s national geographic
institute IGN was finally called upon to
here would you say is resolve this debate, they also named
the centre of France? Vesdun. This would seem to clear up the
While Paris is the matter, as long as you do not include
home of France’s Corsica or any of France’s other islands.
policies and big If you do, the centre turns out to be
decisions, it certainly is not in the most Nassigny, a village with fewer than
central location. This honour is claimed 200 inhabitants.
by the village of Bruère-Allichamps in the Whatever your own conclusions, for the
Cher, 36km south of Bourges. sake of simplicity, emotion and history,
As you can imagine, its claim to be the we seem bound to return to Bruère-
country’s geographical heart has been Allichamps as the centre of France: it has
questioned over the years, but Bruère- the advantage of being the first to take on
Allichamps was the first French village to the role, and it even has a Roman mile-
make such an assertion, and has several stone marker to back up its claim, one
reasons for putting itself forward. that dates back a couple of millennia.
Having defeated Vercingetorix and the So is it worth making the detour to visit
Gauls in 52BC, Roman legions chose to this very central village? What can you
settle in Bruère, a strategic and central expect to see?
base that offered a plentiful water supply After the obligatory tour around the
and a stone quarry for building tem- Roman column and a couple of com-
ples, villas, an amphitheatre memorative photos, you should
and stone monuments. definitely stop off for a
One of these relics was drink and a breather to
unearthed in 1757, ‘centre’ yourself, then
having been used as take time to visit the
part of a sarcopha- Abbaye de Noirlac,
gus. This tall stone a 12th-century
column topped Cistercian abbey
with carvings was (see picture above)
identified as a that is said to be
of Afghanistan’s national sport, brother, Lazare, who had committed Above, Joseph Kessel Roman milestone, one of the most
buzkashi, a game played by teams on suicide in 1920 at the age of 21. in 1915 then in 1799 was complete remaining
horseback. The aim is, more or less by In 1962, he was elected to the erected as a marker examples of this type
fair means or foul, to get a goat car- Académie française, a real mark of on the village cross- of medieval religious
cass into the goal, and tournaments achievement for the son of Russian road. In 1950, the national architecture. Bursting with
can last for days. The novel presented Jewish immigrants. For all his cycle touring club added its Gothic features, the structure
a cast of strong characters, including achievements he was awarded the own carved validation: ‘tradition was sold during the French
one called Uraz. When Uraz breaks Grand Officier de la Légion d’Hon- designates this monument as the centre Revolution and used to manufacture por-
his leg during a game of buzkashi, his neur, the Médaille Militaire, the Croix of France’. celain in the 1800s. It was then bought by
family’s honour is sullied. To regain de Guerre 1914-1918, the Croix de So, this village of around 500 residents the Cher département in 1909 for com-
their honour and wealth, despite Guerre 1939-1945, and the has seen itself as France’s ‘centre’ for over plete restoration. Now open every day
having lost one leg below the knee, Commandeur de l’Ordre des Arts et 200 years, a claim confirmed by early from February 1 to December 23, the
he has to get back in the game and des Lettres. He also won numerous travel-guide writer Adolphe Joanne in abbey hosts workshops and cultural
win. A horse called Jehol is also a other prizes. the 1860s, but his calculations did not events, and invites visitors to explore its
leading character in the book, which In order to help his wife in her include Alsace and Moselle. walkways, grounds, and cloisters that are
was made into a 1971 film called The struggle against alcoholism, the cou- In 1923, Larousse Mensuel Illustré reminiscent of a Harry Potter backdrop.
Horsemen, starring Omar Sharif. ple bought a house outside Paris, in published the findings of Professor Quietly existing between Bourges and
In 1950, he published Le Tour du Avernes. Joseph Kessel died there in E Bouant, who suspended a physical Montluçon, Bruère-Allichamps might not
Malheur in four volumes. It was an 1979 at the age of 81 from a ruptured map to determine France’s centre, placing seem a likely tourist destination, yet it
epic tale, much of it semi-autobio- aneurism, just 15 months before his it in the village of Saulzais-le-Potier, a has a certain charm, and its abbey is
graphical, depicting the struggles and wife Michelle died in 1980. claim backed up by the astronomer and certainly a bonus for curious visitors.
challenges of the time between the He is buried in the Montparnasse mathematician Abbé Théophile Moreux Whether or not you agree that it is the
two wars, and drawing an in-depth cemetery in Paris. The prestigious in 1947. Consequently, this village also true geographical centre of France, this
description of human relationships. Joseph Kessel prize for literature is displays a stone marking the centre little village seems to enjoy its claim to
Much of it is supposed to be based on awarded annually to a ‘book of high of France. fame, and its history of welcoming
his relationship with his younger literary value written in French’. Of course, the story does not end there. visitors is certainly well established.
24 The big picture connexionfrance.com French Living I July 2023

Renaissance for naive art cathedral

Samantha David on

Photos courtesy of Cathédrale Linard

the life’s work of Jean
Linard and the couple
bringing his amazing
‘cathedral’ back to life

O
ne of France’s under-appre-
ciated artworks is being res-
cued from near dereliction
by a couple with ambitious
plans. Cathédrale Linard is
an extraordinary collection of structures
built from bricks and concrete decorated
with broken tiles in the style of art naïf.
It was built by the artist Jean Linard.
He was a potter, sculptor, painter and
builder, whose second wife Anne Kjærs-
gaard, a Danish ceramicist, taught him
how to make decorative tiles. Together
they bought a disused flint quarry near
the village of Neuvy-Deux-Clochers, in
Cher and together they constructed a
farmhouse in the shape of a square with
a central courtyard, using recuperated
and second-hand materials.
Despite the sprinkling of coloured tiles
and sculpted monster heads on the roof,
the house gives the impression of having
been built in the 16th century.
Jean Linard and Anne Kjærsgaard
brought their four children up on the
site, and something of a child’s pleasure
in colour and form still permeates it.
Local people bringing their children to
see the cathedral often remark that they
have fond memories of playing there
as youngsters.
The marriage didn’t last however, and
by the time Jean Linard began his huge are intricately decorated with deliberately Visitors enjoying discovered it. Once we finished training
outdoor cathedral project, he was married broken tile mosaics. Cathédrale Linard’s we both worked in various luxury estab-
to his fourth wife, Anne-Marie Guenin. Deeper into the quarry is a small amphi- sculptures and lishments, but eventually we decided to
Located slap bang in the middle of the theatre where various entertainments mosiacs; the site is open a salon de thé of our own. Some-
quarry, with the hills rising up around it were once staged. In its heyday, the cathe- being rejuvenated by thing simple but good quality, and when
on three sides, it was never designed to be dral welcomed around 20,000 visitors a William Rouger and we realised the cathedral was for sale, we
an enclosed space, but was always meant year. But after Jean Linard’s death in 2010, Charlotte Collet, jumped at the chance.”
to be open to the heavens. “It’s the tallest it gradually fell into disrepair and the pictured right She says the project is a real passion
cathedral in the world,” he said, “because local authorities declared it unsafe and it for both of them. “We think there is so
the sky is the ceiling.” was closed to the public. much potential here. We have complied The couple are also considering the
It is not meant to refer to any particular But in 2020 the site was discovered by with the security requirements so the possibilities of holding events like wed-
religion, however; it is decorated with the a young couple, Charlotte Collet and cathedral is once more open to the public ding parties at the cathedral, or maybe
names Jesus, Mohammed, Buddha, Gan- William Rouger, who were looking for and last year, even with no advertising or even offering outside catering. But in
dhi, Martin Luther King, Mother Theresa, a place to settle and raise a family. “We anything we had 6,000 visitors. We served the short term, they are busy with their
Gaudi and Picasso amongst others. met in Paris when we were both training pancakes and other light refreshments new baby. “Ah yes,” says Charlotte,
With the multiple spinning discs repre- to become pâtisserie chefs,” says Char- last year, but still plan to open a salon de “we’re breeding our own staff!”
senting the planets, perhaps it is dedicat- lotte. “I grew up in the area so I’ve always thé, and eventually maybe even a restau- See www.lacathedraledelinard.fr
ed more to nature itself. The structures known the cathedral, but William has just rant. And who knows, perhaps a hotel!” for visitor information.

Quiz answers from page 19 Answers from page 18 and 19 A ADIEU,

A AID,
Guess the region A ATE,
1. A – Louis XIII, as they star in the The Three Musketeers: D’Artagnan movie 2. B – American Katie, Toughnuts A AZOTE,
Bonifacio, Corsica is the southernmost commune in C CHEMINS DE FER,
who lives in the Mercantour national park, ran the 171km Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc in 23hr15min.
Metropolitan France and has hosted top diving tourna- C CREAM,
It has 10km of elevation 3. C – The Louvre painting Liberty Leading the People shows a bare-breasted
ments such as the Red Bull World Series. Image, Pixabay D DÉVERSEMENTS,
woman, waving followers on with a French flag. The ban was quickly lifted 4. C – It links Savoie in
the north and Hautes-Alpes. It has featured 63 times in the Tour de France 5. C – Papin invented the Bilingual cryptic crossword E EVENT,
Across: 1 Averse, 4 Adorer, 8 On trial, 9 Inspect, E EXACT,
pressure cooker, calling it “a pretty brutal way of cooking,” in 1679 while working in London with Irish
11 Dictionary, 12 Erne, 13 Oncle, 14 Garderie, F FIGHTERS,
physicist Robert Boyle 6. Launched later this year, Polar Pod is a vertical ship, 100m high with just 25m H HAWAII,
above the water containing the living quarters 7. The sail training ship Le Belem. Built in 1896 in Nantes, 16 Liberate, 18 Poche, 20 Rime, 21 Passe-droit, I INDIA,
she was a cargo ship and later a pleasure yacht 8. The Tall Ships Race, starts at Le Havre from July 4-7 23 Janvier, 24 Seminar, 25 Earner, 26 Etoffe. I ISRAEL,
before heading up the Channel to Dunkirk, Aberdeen and Kristiansand 9. Calypso, by John Denver. Down: 1 Ainsi, 2 Erratic, 3 Soap opera, 5 Dandy, L LAISSER TOMBER,
Cousteau and the singer were great friends and the chorus was written while Denver was on Calypso 6 Rapière, 7 Reconcile, 10 Baigneuse, 13 Originate, L LÉCHER,
10. It is nearly 250km from the nearest sea shore, being in Indre, Centre-Val de Loire. The base is a VLF 15 Represent, 17 Enerver, 19 Cardiff, 21 Poème, L LOCATE,
radio station and features 13 giant masts 11. Fabrice Toure. Found liable on six counts of fraud total- 22 Image. O OR,
ling $1billion; Securities and Exchange Commission lawyers called him the face of “Wall Street greed” P PERPENDICULAR,
French-themed crossword P PRIEST,
12. The bank said he cost them €4.9billion. Jailed for three years for abuse of trust, forgery and entering Across: 2 Cardin, 6 miel, 7 haie, 8 ampère, 10 gîte, R RADIO,
false data on €50billion of trades, he served 110 days. He later won a case for unfair dismissal as a court 11 cafetière, 13 été, 14 école, 16 cap, 20 langouste, R RAGOÛT,
said the bank knew about his trades 13. Emmanuel Macron, who was elected president in 2017 and for a 22 haut, 23 Proust, 24 seau, 25 rôle, 26 Ariège (6). R RUG,
second term in 2022 14. A Scotsman, John Law, set up the bank in 1716. It collapsed in 1720. Napoleon S SCREW,
created the Banque de France in 1800 15. In 1799 although it had been used as a form of currency since Down: 1 cinéaste, 2 claret, 3 repli, 4 Satie, 5 neveu, Solution No.17 (RUE DE PARADIS) S SITUÉ,
1360 16. Tefal, which has uses from saucepans to riot police clothing. Space research engineer Grégoire 9 rural, 12 Bastille, 15 clair, 17 huître, 18 thèse, S SONNETTE,
used Teflon to stop the rod sticking and his wife asked him to do the same to her saucepan 17. Louis 19 Dumas, 21 gaule. S SPORT,
Braille and the Braille language which uses a combination of six raised dots 18. The bra or soutien-gorge. Unscrambled answers: dissertation S STYLO,
T THUMB,
It was first shown at the Exposition Universelle world fair in Paris 19. The folding umbrella. The parapluie Fun French facts T TRI,
brisé as invented by Marius is still in use today 20. Roland Moreno earned more than €100million for his 1 Having his shoes shined, 2 La tour de l’Horloge’s 14th U USUAL,
electronic circuit that stored data and could be read and changed by a scanner century clock at the Conciergerie in Paris, 3 A dance. Y YOUTH.
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Practical 21

Dentist shortage ‘is unlikely Death is no obstacle

to a French wedding
to improve for many years’ A RETIRED Frenchwoman is
to marry her partner of 40
years – even though he died
mayor encouraged her to ask
for authorisation after hearing
about the death. She will be
RECENT law changes aiming Other measures include the in November 2020. declared a widow after the
Number of dentists per 100,000
to address France’s shortage of recent creation of eight new Paulette Hourcadet, from ceremony. Wedding rings or
inhabitants across France’s 13
dentists will take several years university dentistry depart- Gers in the south west, a marriage contract might
metropolitan regions.
to make an impact, unions ments, and monthly stipends received authorisation for also provide proof.
are warning. for students who agree to the wedding from President The concept dates from 1803,
The issue was highlighted practise in an area with short- Macron, giving hope to other and was originally intended for
recently when an agricultural ages for at least two years. people who lose a partner war widows.
labourer in Charente-Maritime In May, MPs passed a law before they have had a chance The current legislation has its
pulled out his own tooth after that will create a new role of to tie the knot. origins in 1959, when the
failing to find an appointment. ‘level two’ dental assistants who Posthumous marriage is rare Malpasset dam near Fréjus was
One reader also told The are able to help dentists with a but legal in France – one of the breached, killing more than 400
Connexion that she contacted greater number of tasks. The few countries to explicitly people. A pregnant woman
42 dentists in the Morbihan Union Dentaire has welcomed allow ‘necrogamy’ in its legis- who lost her fiancé was allowed
area after hers retired before the move, but warned it could lation – although the adminis- to go ahead with the marriage
she found one who would take take at least five years to define trative burden is significant. so that her child would not be
her – an hour away in Rennes. and develop the profession. Only the president can considered illegitimate.
Clément Neveu, of the Union Source: ONDPS “It will also require a second authorise such a marriage by Recent examples include the
Dentaire trade union, said: chair. Is there going to be issuing a decree. The justice partner of Maxime Blasco, a
“Covid accelerated the number are close to burnout. They are 100,000 inhabitants in France – enough space? It’s not always ministry studies the case first. French soldier killed in combat
of retirements, but this just refusing dozens of patients lower than the EU average (74). certain,” said Mr Neveu. Article 171 of the French in Mali in 2021, who wished
intensified a crisis that has every day,” Mr Neveu said. By contrast, there are 43 NHS Another measure aimed at Civil Code says it is possible to perform the symbolic act
been ongoing for years.” “Last year, I had a dentist dentists per 100,000 people in combating ‘medical deserts’ only where there is sufficient of taking his name. In 2017,
Over the past 20 years, the who told me ‘I didn’t sleep the England, though this excludes where there is a lack of dentists evidence “which establishes Xavier Jugelé, a policeman who
French population grew by other night, because a pregnant dentists who are private only. has been labelled counter- unequivocally the consent” was killed in a terrorist attack
more than 10%, but the num- woman came at 21:30 and I The real issue in France is productive by unions. of the deceased person. on the Champs-Elysées, was
ber of dentists grew only by turned her away. I was exhaust- geographical disparities. Four The 2009 loi Bachelot allowed In Ms Hourcadet’s case, married to his partner.
4%, according to the latest ed, it was tough to say no, but I regions have a chronic short- associations to open dental a wedding date had been The Civil Code also specifies
report by the ONDPS, which could have made a mistake’.” age: Normandy, Centre-Val de centres without authorisation circulated to future guests that a posthumous marriage
studies the demographics of He is originally from Cher in Loire, Hauts de France and from ARS regional health and the banns announcing does not lead to the application
healthcare professionals, in the Centre-Val de Loire region Bourgogne Franche-Comté. authorities, but most have the marriage had already been of intestacy rules to the benefit
November 2021. and said he is regularly contact- Meanwhile, Île-de-France, opened in areas where there published before her partner, of the surviving partner. In
Dentists, along with other ed by people in his home town Occitanie and Provence- are already enough dentists. Dominique Labarrere, died other words, there is no finan-
healthcare workers, have also who want help finding an Alpes-Côte d’Azur have the “The younger generation is from an illness. The local cial incentive.
denounced an increase in appointment. “I tell them to greatest supply. setting up in cities, in places
no-shows, as platforms such as travel 150km to Paris and find In 2020, the government where there is less need,” said MONEY-SAVER
Doctolib have made it easier to a dentist near the station.” abolished the numerus clausus, Mr Neveu.
book appointments online.
Some patients take appoint-
ments with several dentists,
There have been reports of
verbal and even physical
assaults aimed at dentists in
a cap on medical and dentistry
student numbers, but it will
take around seven years for the
The policy also led to a num-
ber of scandals surrounding
‘low-cost’ dental centres, such
No-waste cooking classes
then fail to show up to all but areas where patients are repeat- additional students to graduate. as Dentexia and Proxidentaire,
one, or cancel at the last minute. edly turned away. “All my den- “We have been warning that with patients filing complaints
A recent study by Doctolib tists say that 30 years ago they there would be a demographic after paying for treatment that

Photo: Shutterstock_ Monkey Business Images

found that dentists were the were never insulted like that.” problem for the last 20 years,” was never finished, or did
most affected by no-shows, Dentists do, however, have a Mr Neveu said. more harm than good.
making up 6.2% of appoint- legal obligation to see patients “There are no instant solu- A law change adopted in May
ments made online, compared in an emergency (see page 18). tions. The next decade will reinstated the requirement for
to 3.4% for GPs. “Our dentists There are 62 dentists for every be difficult.” ARS approval.

Benefit explainer: Aspa pension top-up

THIS ARTICLE is the first in a new series French pension, provided they come can apply to a body called Saspa that is FOOD prices continue to in in Bordeaux via her com-
explaining the different benefits and aid under one of the following categories: currently run by the Mutualité Sociale rise, so it is more important pany AllezSentiel, also holds
available in France. This month we look n Citizens of the EU/EEA, Switzerland, Agricole (MSA), which usually deals with than ever to ensure nothing online classes via video con-
at the pension top-up aid Allocation de or the UK; farmers’ pensions. goes to waste. ference (€30 for one hour).
solidarité aux personnes âgées (Aspa). n Citizens of Algeria, Andorra, Benin, In that case, you should submit a form to However, when it comes to Other events focus more on
Cape Verde, Congo, Gabon, Israel, your commune’s mairie or centre commun- making use of everything in the quality of the food, still
What it is: Aspa is a monthly benefit that Madagascar, Mali, Morocco, Monaco, al d’action sociale (CCAS). They should the kitchen, traditional know- with budget in mind. Over
serves to top up low pensions. It used to be Senegal, Togo, Turkey, or Tunisia, under provide you with the form, but it is also how is slowly being lost. the last decade, groups of
known as the minimum vieillesse (old-age certain conditions; available at tinyurl.com/aspamsa. Fortunately, more and more farmers have been organising
minimum) and is still commonly referred n Refugees, stateless individuals; cooking classes in France Défis Foyers à Alimentation
to as such. n Citizens from other countries who have Good to know: It is important to note that focus on teaching you how to Positive – households come
It is meant to work as a safety net for held a residency permit authorising them to amounts paid out may be deducted from reduce waste, and therefore together in teams and are
pensioners who might not have paid much work in France for at least 10 years. your estate after your death if the estate’s save money. challenged to consume more
into the system and thus do not have the value is more than €39,000. In Paris, for example, the local organic products with-
right to claim a significant pension. Amount: The maximum amount you can From September 1, this minimum Altrimenti association offers out spending more on food.
receive is equal to the income thresholds threshold will be increased to €100,000, workshops on preparing The programme includes
Who can apply: In order to claim Aspa, you for making a claim, ie. €961.08 gross if you in an attempt to encourage more people Italian dishes using unwanted free support, such as cooking
need to live in France and be at least 65, live alone, or €1,492.08 for couples if both to apply for the Aspa benefit. ingredients, including stalks classes and advice for reduc-
although you might be eligible at 62 people claim. Only half of those eligible actually claim and peel. Search online for ing waste. The challenges
if you have a disability and are unable The exact amount is calculated by sub- it, according to a report by the Drees atelier cuisine anti-gaspillage take place in several regions.
to work, for example. tracting your income from the maximum statistics agency, with the prospect of pay- and the name of your town Find out more at foyersaali-
Your gross monthly income must also amount, so if you live alone and earn €800 ments being taken out of the future inherit- or department to see if there mentationpositive.fr.
not surpass (June 2023 figures): €961.08 if per month, you would receive €161.08. ance cited alongside a lack of information are classes in your area, run French households throw
you live alone, or €1,492.08 for a couple. as reasons many do not claim. by local business owners away the equivalent of 20kg
Pension payments and professional Where to apply: Aspa is not paid out auto- In 2016, of 646,800 eligible people, only or associations. of edible food per person in
income are taken into account when matically. If you have a French pension, 325,700 claimed. It is estimated that elig- If nothing is happening household waste each year,
calculating your eligibility, but some you apply for Aspa via that pension fund, ible people who did not claim missed out near you, you might be able including 7kg of products
other sources of income are not, including which is usually the Caisse nationale on €205 per month on average. to join a class from home. that are still in their packag-
disability benefits. d’assurance vieillesse (Cnav). Find the If the estate is inherited by the person’s Sandrine Costarramone, ing, according to environment
Non-French people are eligible if they application form at tinyurl.com/aspaform. spouse, repayment can be put off until the who offers coaching sessions agency Ademe.
live in France, even if they do not receive a If you do not have a French pension, you latter’s death.
 Business Directory
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COMMERCIAL FEATURE

A swimming pool for life and a return on investment...sounds like a dream!

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 The Connexion July 2023 www.connexionfrance.com ALL OF FRANCE Directory 23
COMMERCIAL FEATURE

How to move your UK pension to France at a preferential tax rate

Expat wealth expert Daniel Butcher, founder of DTB Wealth 55s with personal pensions, such as within two months and it is then added
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24 Directory ALL OF FRANCE www.connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023
COMMERCIAL FEATURE

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Specialists in supplying quality REMOVALS
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Part-exchanges welcome Removals, Storage,
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or 0033 (0)6 84 85 04 61 Delivery throughout France.
gary.automobiles@wanadoo.fr
dordognestoragesolutions.com
Stockagedss@gmail.com
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www.fuitedetection.fr
+33 781 444545
updates visit
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 The Connexion July 2023 www.connexionfrance.com ALL OF FRANCE Directory 25
COMMERCIAL FEATURES

How to effortlessly keep your pool clean all summer

A pool is an asset for making the most of the hot summer, but keeping its surface free from
flies, wasps, leaves and fluff is a never-ending story. But help is at hand: on Jan’s site you can
watch a stunning video that shows the PoolGobbler attracting all debris into its filter bag.
IT IS hard to imagine how the PoolGobbler, returning into the pool from the filtration through his website, which also features
such an apparently simple piece of equipment, pump, it connects to one of the inlet jets where a movie of the PoolGobbler at work and
can keep a whole pool surface free from its design considerably increases the speed of comments from users.
floating debris, automatically and without any the water flow. The high speed of the water To order online, visit the website or send
human intervention. It seems unbelievable, then causes a pulling effect on the surface and, a letter with a French cheque (€59.95 for the
but on pools of up to 12 x 6 metres, its as a result, the circular flow that is created PoolGobbler, plus €9.95 for an extra set of five
effective design means the entire pool area takes all floating debris to the PoolGobbler filter bags and €6.50 for postage) to:
remains spotless. where it is caught in its filter bag.” Pure-Piscines (Jan van Gils), Le Bourg, 46700,
Jan van Gils introduced the PoolGobbler Unlike many other pool appliances, the Sérignac.
into the French market after coming across PoolGobbler is completely unobtrusive and Anyone who is not satisfied will get their
it in South Africa where it is a very popular positions itself neatly against the wall so it is money back. Pool professionals interested in
product. He immediately installed it in his possible to swim at all times. It also does not selling the PoolGobbler, and those looking for
own pool in France and now believes he need any kind of electricity or cables, and is more information, should contact Jan directly.
could not do without it. easy to install. Maintenance is also easy – just
But how does it work? “The secret to the empty the filter bag when full. 05 65 31 96 23
PoolGobbler is a clever use of fluid dynamics,” Jan’s company, Pure-Piscines, sells the info@pure-piscines.com
said Jan. “Using the force of the water patented product in France, and beyond, www.pure-piscines.com The PoolGobbler will keep pools of up to 12 x 6 metres spotless and debris free

The ‘one stop shop’ for every aspect of your removal needs
Modern methods, old “OVER the years, our services have present when moving overseas. days complimentary storage as part of
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service. from the EU, the process in how goods Whether for a few days, a few months, or Andrea concludes with a ‘top tip’ when call Andrea and her team at Watson
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 26 Directory FEATURES www.connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023
COMMERCIAL FEATURES

English-speaking insurance agency addresses concerns over health cover

Based in Bordeaux, we are complementary policies for retirees. After We understanding that many people does it operate? What is a dépassement
3 years, 4 years and then 5 years of loyalty, are confused by the need for even a basic d’honoraires? (specialists’ excesses). The
the only SwissLife agency in we automatically enhance your level of level of protection let alone why one importance of requesting a prise en charge
France to work with English- Health Care Insurance, for free and offer would need additional cover for expenses hospitalière before an admission to the
speaking clients all over better reimbursements. over and above the French state scale of hospital. These are questions which form
Swisslife Santé. This is suitable for reimbursement. Hence we explain step by part of our ‘day to day’ telephone calls and
France. We offer a wide range customers aged 18 to retiring age. We step the procedures that are relative to an emails. We communicate the answers in
of healthcare insurance, offer nine complementary policies, all individual’s situation. clear English.
policies also include reimbursements Each case is different and there are many For more information regarding our
general insurance solutions for bills which are not reimbursed by misunderstandings based on hearsay or health insurance plans, general enquiries
and private banking, backed the French health system. inaccurate translations through a claim or questions on sales or claims procedures
by one of Europe’s leading Swisslife Hospitalisation only. These are reimbursement. Frequently asked questions contact our main administration office:
available for life-long cover but must be often relate to the care path and why at
insurance providers. subscribed before the age of 65. The top up times one receives a lower reimbursement +33 (0)5 56 28 94 64
AS you would expect health cover offered of any bills relates to hospitalisation only. than expected. Medical franchises and and speak to Marie
by Swisslife is comprehensive and we Swisslife santé Retraités and Swisslife certain common phrases used in the
enhance this with our helpful, English- santé provide full cover which includes healthcare industry can lead to confusion. Email:
speaking, customer service. hospitalisation, surgery Dentistry, Optical, Why do I need a health cover policy? Will bordeaux.theatre@agence-swisslife.fr
We are currently offering three principal doctor fees, specialists, xrays, Cardiologists, my medicines be free as they are in the UK?
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for retirees only. There are eight by Swisslife. What is the télétransmission system? How (in English)

Swimming pool repair company ready for new season of leaky finders!
English speaking “Fuite able to cover almost the whole of the South Pools, who were willing to come over and
Detection” is the specialist of France area., repairing pools as far have a look. They located the issue within
as Bordeaux, Limoges and St Tropez.” 15 minutes – crushed pipework buried
swimming pool leak detection Swimming pools are a common feature in beneath a metre of concrete! Using their
and repair company based properties in France, whether they are private specialist technology they pinpointed the
in South France. Owner and and used exclusively by the owner, or are the precise location of the problem, shortly
all important selling point of a rental property after it was repaired and I had a perfectly
co-founder Steve Mallet or a gite complex. Swimming pools are functioning pool.
reviews. complex and require a degree of knowledge “Taking the opportunity to launch this
to keep them running properly. And they do brilliant service into France was an obvious
“THE 2023 swimming pool season is suffer from problems from time to time. decision for me and so in 2014 Fuite
approaching, and you can count on it being Pool leaks are amongst the most worrying Detection was born, working in association
as crazy as 2022,” says Steve. “Even with the of issues to experience as they prevent the with Thames Swimming Pools.
pandemic causing continued restrictions on pool from running properly, take up valuable “The service is essentially in two stages – Visit www.fuitedetection.fr
holiday travel, and second home attendance, resource in both increased use of water and firstly we undertake a thorough survey to or call
our phones continued to be red hot with chemicals, and often cause structural damage. find out where the leak is occurring, using +44 7770 274528
clients reporting water loss issues. We were Steve continues: “I am a pool owner and had the most modern technology and equipment. +33 781 444545
still able to function despite the Covid been experiencing water loss for two years. I The second stage uses technology from the
restrictions as pool surveys and repairs can had difficulty in finding anyone locally who USA to repair the leak, in many cases without we are able to use a unique sleeving method to help our clients to restore problem pools
easily be undertaken whilst respecting social had the technical knowledge, equipment, and requiring expensive and disruptive excavation. which does not require any excavation. to their full glory. There is nothing better
distancing and contact restrictions. desire to come and help. Eventually I found For example on a single line, such as a “We have had an exceptional response to than arriving at a property to see a beautiful,
“Although based near Carcassonne we were a company in England, Thames Swimming Vacuum Line or a Bonde de Fonde (drain) our service and are delighted that we are able inviting crystal clear pool.”

W E A R E R EC R U I T I N G !
Start a new career as a property sales agent

Join our
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Myriam Winling
LEGGETT IMMOBILIER AGENT

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Read Myriam’s story

+33 (0)5 53 60 82 77 · recruitment@leggett.fr · www.leggettfrance.com

 FEATURES Directory 27

VEHICLE
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OUR SPECIALISED VEHICLES
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EXCLUSIVE
CHARENTE €459,500 HAI LOT €260,000
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Fees: 5% paid by the buyer Net price: Fees : Paid by the vendor
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We’re recruiting Family owned business with
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w Full & part loads throughout France & the UK,
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Ref: BVI68522 3-bed open plan Ref: BVI65473 4-bed stone house offered weekly
house with terrace, garden & pool with 2 gîtes, stables and pool areas of South
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Contact Tina Anderson,
w Full, part or specialist packing services
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w Vehicle transportation

w Guidance with customs clearance procedures

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w Staff fully trained in house
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Fees: 7% paid by the buyer Net price: Fees: 6% paid by the buyer Net price: Tel +44 (0)1962 777 684
€200,000 Climate class : D Energy class : B €801,887 Climate class: D Energy class: E
Email moving@cranburys.co.uk
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr
Siret : 501 191 720 00199 Carte prof : CPI 3301 2018 000 027 010 Garantie financière : QBE assurance pour 110 000 euros www.cranburys.co.uk
 28 Healthcare connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Two-thirds of pharmacies understaffed Dengue cases monitored

by Samantha David

“
Healthcare within 15 minutes of home
ANTI-SOCIAL hours and poor FRANCE is second only to Spain in having
information about training courses the most pharmacies in Europe, with more
are among the reasons cited for than 20,500, according to Statista.
a growing shortage of dispensing The Ordre national des pharmaciens pointed
pharmacists in France. We need out in 2017 that 97% of the French population
Around 15,000 pharmacists are is less than 15 minutes from a pharmacy.
needed to fill shortages, says the to raise Some 35% are located in towns with fewer

Photo: Karen Hermann_shutterstock

Fédération des syndicats pharma- awareness in than 5,000 inhabitants, providing access to a
ceutiques de France (FSPF). healthcare professional without an appoint-
It claims that two-thirds of pharm- schools that this is an ment in even the most remote areas.
Departments where tiger mosquitoes have
acies across the country report
being understaffed and overworked.
interesting profession As well as sorting prescriptions, giving
vaccines and selling household remedies, they been identified, as of January 1, 2023
“It is a big problem,” says Denis which is evolving fast can also offer minor first aid, loan medical SOME 46 cases of dengue fever were diagnosed
Millet, FSPF general secretary. “It is equipment, and identify wild mushrooms. in mainland France in May this year, new figures
difficult to recruit pharmacists and Denis Millet, FSPF from the country’s health authority show.
even harder to retain them.” pharmacists in France are independ- academic year, only 2,700 out of a make it clear that although starting All were ‘imported’ cases (as opposed to cases
He also credits the shortage, among ent and own their shop. total of 3,802 second-year places salaries look low, the profession is caused by mosquitoes from France). The figures,
other reasons, to an image issue. “To have your name on the door, available had been filled. better paid later on.” from Santé publique France, also showed one
“In the past, some medical students you have to own the business, The FSPF said the national admis- In 2014, a report by the Inspection imported case of chikungunya – another mos-
chose pharmacy only because they which usually also means owning sions platform for higher education, générale des finances put pharma- quito-borne infection – between May 1 and 26.
failed their exams to be a doctor. This the premises, so pharmacists are called Parcoursup, does not make cists on a net monthly salary of France faces a rise in mosquito-borne viral
has led to the profession wrongly required to have business skills too,” it easy to find information about €7,671, ahead of specialist doctors diseases in the coming years, and the health
being seen as a bit second best.” Mr Millet says. pharmacists. In addition, it claimed (€7,186), dentists (€6,912) and authority coordinates enhanced seasonal surveil-
A recent FSPF report claimed 80% The FSPF report also noted the entrance qualifications do not easily general practitioners (€5,666). lance of cases between May 1 and November 30,
of members it surveyed had experi- impact that Covid has had on align with the current baccalauréat The average salary for an assistant when the risk is highest. Last summer, France
enced trouble recruiting assistants. people’s attitude to work, including curriculum. pharmacist is around €3,500 net reported 65 cases of indigenous dengue fever.
Lack of career progression, a growing reluctance to sacrifice “We need to signpost entrance per month. Indeed, the spread of the tiger mosquito, which
difficulties achieving a work/life family and personal responsibilities into the profession better,” says Mr can transmit the disease, continues to alarm
balance, modest salaries, decreasing to their jobs. Millet. “And we need to raise aware- n Attacks on pharmacists have risen authorities, with the mosquito now present
social status and anti-social hours This is particularly noticeable in ness in schools that this is an inter- by 17% in three years, according to a in ten times as many departments as in 2010.
were among obstacles cited. pharmacy roles, 90% of which are esting profession which is evolving report published by the Ordre The authority says outbreaks are likely to recur,
Mr Millet points out that a phar- held by women and which do not fast, with lots of new responsibilities national des pharmaciens in June. increase in size and affect new areas due to
macist must be on the premises the offer many opportunities for remote to take on. In 2022, a total of 366 incidents weather extremes, urbanisation and more travel.
whole time a dispensary is open. or flexible working. “As well as dispensing medicines, were recorded, representing an n Data showing the number of tick bites in different
“It means long hours, opening In the last two years, the number giving advice, vaccinating people, average of one attack on a pharma- regions of France has been published at tinyurl.com/
until 19:30, opening Saturdays, and of university places to study pharm- testing for a range of diseases, you cist every day in France. These tick-bite. It is part of research to better understand
being the duty pharmacist over acy has increased by 16.4%. are a link between patients and included verbal and physical ticks’ behaviour and the diseases they carry. People
some weekends and nights.” Most However, at the start of the 2022 their doctors. Finally, we need to attacks, as well as thefts. can report bites both to themselves and their pets.

Private health insurance for individuals,

families, groups and businesses
ASTTRAL is your one-stop-shop for your
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Global cover, including health top-up
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for the French requirements for long stay
visas to enter France. Asttral offer a wide
range of products and can customize a plan
to your requirements. Christopher ABBA,
Asttral Health & Benefit Consultant, explains.
WE call this the ASTTRAL Á LA CARTE
approach. Think of it like ordering from
a menu at your favourite restaurant!
So let us look a little deeper at how we
begin the process of finding your benefit
plans. We start by reviewing your current
insurance, if you have it, and an overview of
your personal (or statistical) information.
This includes your age, gender, country of
citizenship, country of residence and what
you are looking to achieve in terms of
cover. This is essentially the same for small
or large groups as well, except in this case
the census contains all the employee’s
information that require coverage.
Now we have the basic personal infor-
mation, we then focus on the components
that can be added to the proposal. It could
be just medical cost cover, with dental and
vision included or maybe you want life
cover as well. The permutations for this
are varied but the result is we offer a
simplified choice structure, or as mentioned
previously, an á la carte menu – with prices
of course!
We offer the same bespoke service for all our Insurance products,
property, auto, professional and mutuelle top-up cover
from the many companies on our panel.
Please contact us at info@asttral.com
and by phone at +33 (0)468 32 41 20
for more information.
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com French life in numbers 29

12 things you can do at your Five things you may not know...
about pets in France

mairie apart from get married

by Samantha David

What would you add to the list?

Tell us at news@connexionfrance.com
by Samantha David
THERE are around 35,000 communes in
France, almost all of them with a mairie.
You can only legally get married at a
mairie, although you can have a marriage
blessed in church (or anywhere else for
that matter). You can also get a civil part-
nership here, known in France as a pacte
civil de solidarité (pacs).

Photo: agefotostock /Alamy

Formal recognition of relationships is not,
however, the only service that mairies offer.
They are the first port of call for numerous

Photo: Gordon Bell_shutterstock

queries and bureaucratic functions.
The services they manage depend on
the size of the commune and the areas of
responsibility delegated by the local com-
The picturesque mairie
1. Les animaux their human counterparts.
munauté de communes. These can include Que c’est mimi!
in Roussillon, Vaucluse
town planning, housing, schools, public AROUND 54% of house-
sporting equipment, cultural activities, holds in France have at least 4. Le minou
health and social aid, and even, in theory, 5 Celebrate high days and holidays one pet, and a large propor-

Photo: Online story_Shutterstock

the police. Essentially, whatever your query, A great aspect of French life is the custom in tion of them are bought as CATS are the most popular
if the mairie cannot answer it, the team many communes of inviting residents to free gifts for children. The most pets in France. There are an
there will at least point you in the right apéros on bank holidays. Apart from being able popular breed of dog in estimated 13.5 million pet
direction. Here are other services offered: to chat to the élus (elected officials), it is also a France is the Australian cats in the Hexagon, compared
useful way to meet the neighbours. Some mairies Shepherd, but (sssh!) cats are to seven million dogs.
arrange drinks for new arrivals too. a far more popular choice The village of La Romieu in
1 Apply for planning permission
than dogs, and most of them Gers bears witness to this
A declaration of works on a property 9 are simple moggies. Je l’adore! feline love
(déclaration préalable) or application for full 6 Do recensement citoyen paperwork Find local tradespeople
affair: vis-
planning permission must be submitted to At age 16, French citizens complete a Most mairies have a website detailing local 2. Le toutou itors can
the mairie. You can also contest someone recensement citoyen declaration (sometimes businesses, many of which have no other spot hun-
else’s application and consult the local erroneously called a military census) in online presence, making this a fabulous FRENCH men don’t mind dreds of
planning rules (plan local d’urbanisme). order to get an attestation de recensement. way of finding local tradespeople. walking fluffy little lapdogs beautiful
This involves completing a journée late at night – even if the cats all
2

Photo: Marion Kaplan / Alamy

Get an updated birth certificate défense et citoyenneté (JDC) and is essen- 10 Declare your gîte or chambre d’hôtes aforementioned darling is around
In France, you must apply to the town hall tial to sit exams including the Bac and Whether you rent out a room on Airbnb or wearing a glitter collar and a the
where you were born (rather than the local BEP, to enter a concours administratif run a full-blown holiday accommodation pink lead. It is a strange kind village,
mairie) for a current birth certificate. These (competitive hiring/training exams within business, you must declare it at the mairie. of status symbol: this is a sculpted
are updated each time something happens: the civil service), to be added to the elect- man who has a woman who by
a name change, marriage, divorce, children, oral roll at 18, or to get a driving licence. 11 Register a death has a lapdog, and she is Maurice
death. This is why officialdom requires a worth it, kind of thing... Serreau. T’as vu?
recent (no more than three months old) 7 Ask permission for school enrolment To register a death, you must go to the Mais dis donc!
copy of a birth certificate. mairie in the commune where the death 5. Les déjections canines
In theory, children should go to the school occurred, regardless of the nationality 3. Mon bébé
3 Apply for a tip permit in their commune, so if you want to send of the deceased. Bring your ID and, if IT IS illegal for your pooch
Proof of address (un justificatif de domicile) them somewhere else, you usually have to possible, the death certificate, plus any WELL-BEHAVED lapdogs to decorate the pavement in
or a special card from your mairie is ask permission (dérogation scolaire). document concerning the identity of the are allowed in places that the way nature intended, but
generally required to access the local deceased. You should also register the otherwise ban dogs, eg. the 150,000 dogs living in
déchetterie. They can also tell you where 8 Arrange a civil baptism death of large animals, such as horses. restaurants, bars, hotels – and Paris are estimated to pro-
the nearest tipping facility is. If you are not religious but would still like even supermarkets. More duce 16 tonnes of freebies a
to welcome a new baby with a ceremony, 12 Seek mediation with noisy neighbours than once, lapdogs have been day. In Bergerac, the fine for
4 Get on the electoral list you can ask the maire for a civil baptism. If you cannot agree with neighbours about spotted sitting nicely in the not picking up your canine’s
This applies to EU citizens only. Pre-Brexit, The ceremony is free. The maire is not loud music, your plum tree’s branches or a child’s seat of a supermarket latest déjection is now €750.
UK citizens could vote in local and legally obliged to perform it but it is rare barking dog, the maire will often intervene trolley – in some cases, Could this work in Paris?
European elections, but this is no longer for a request to be refused. If it is refused, to settle the matter, or at least to point out causing less mayhem than Il faut essayer!
the case. parents can ask at another mairie. the local regulations.

with The Connexion’s in-depth digital

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 30 Profile connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

$200bn: how did this Frenchman get to be that rich?

What does he own?

Photos: Joseph GTK_shutterstock / Greg Balfour Evans_Alamy Banque D’Images/ ureliefrance_shutterstock / sylv1rob1_shutterstock
Profile:
Bernard Arnault
From the origins of his

Photo: MediaPunch Inc/Alamy Live News

Wines and spirits industry:

Photo: U PI / Alamy Banque D’Images

entrepreneurial success to Dom Pérignon, Moët & Chandon,

Image: thongyhod_shutterstock
his complicated relationship Mercier, Ruinart, Krug, Chandon
Estates, Mountadam, and many more.
with the French people, Fashion and leather:
Théophile Larcher draws Louis Vuitton, Celine, Kenzo, Marc
a portrait of the divisive With Donald Trump in 2017 Jacobs, Givenchy, Dior, Christian
billionaire businessman and, right
right,, with wife Hélène Lacroix, and many more.
Perfume and cosmetics:
HE IS known in the business world as ness environment following the elec- owed. By 1990, he had taken control the financial hideaways of famous Christian Dior, Givenchy, Guerlain,
‘the wolf in cashmere’ for his ruthless tion of socialist president François of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy brands and power-brokers. Kenzo, Urban Decay, and many more.
tendency to swallow up luxury brands. Mitterrand. (LVMH), an integration of aspiration- Meanwhile, 2016 saw the release of Retail: DFS Group (which owns
But a more conventional appetite was While living there, he built The al brands including the fashion house a the documentary film Merci Patron!, Samaritaine Paris), Miami Cruiseline,
on display in June when photos Princess, a seaside resort in Palm Louis Vuitton, champagne-maker which took aim at Mr Arnault’s out- Sephora, Le Bon Marché Paris.
emerged of Bernard Arnault enjoying Beach, Florida, but a more formative Moët & Chandon, and the cognac sourcing of French jobs to foreign Watches and jewellery: Tiffany & Co,
lunch with fellow billionaire Elon moment came during a much earlier producer Hennessy. labour. Tag Heuer, Omas, Fred, and more.
Musk in Paris. trip to the country in 1961. The group has since expanded to In this critically acclaimed film, French newspapers/media:
The images sent the internet into In an exchange with a New York incorporate other leading companies director and left-wing politician Les Echos, Le Parisien, Radio
overdrive with speculation about what cab driver, Mr Arnault says he got his in fashion, fragrance, jewellery and François Ruffin takes on the case of Classique, La Tribune.
they may have been discussing, not first inkling of the power wielded by watches, fine wines and spirits, and two textile workers who were made
least because the pair currently boast luxury brands when the driver told even hotels, including the London- redundant when operations at the Mr Arnault and his family have
being the two richest men in the world. him he had no idea who France’s based group Belmond, whose hold- factory where they worked, run by shares in: LVMH (47.35%), Hermès
At the start of the year, Mr Arnault, then-president was, but he had heard ings boast the Cipriani hotel in Venice one of Mr Arnault’s companies, were (2%), Carrefour (8.6% at the end
founder and CEO of luxury goods of Christian Dior. and the Orient Express. relocated to Poland. It follows Mr of 2019).
company LVMH, officially held top “I was fascinated to understand that Along the way, Mr Arnault has also Ruffin’s efforts to force the billionaire
spot. His ‘ranking’ has since slipped to France has one name with internation- bought up newspapers and amassed to compensate for “ruining their lives”. His properties include: a private
second – at the time of writing, he al fame,” Mr Arnault later explained a substantial art collection, including Even before that, Mr Arnault had 2,000m² mansion on rue Barbet-de-
had lost $24.5billion and been over- paintings by Pablo Picasso and Andy attracted critical headlines for trying Jouy in Paris’s 7th arrondissement,

“
taken by Musk – but the 74-year-old Warhol, and Henry Moore sculptures. to claim Belgian citizenship. bought for €25million in 2005;
and his family still enjoy a net worth He is the founder of the Fondation In 2013, he announced he had aban- château Saint-Rémy-des-Landes in
of more than US$187billion, accord- Louis Vuitton (see April/May issue of doned the attempt because he did not Clairefontaine-en-Yvelines (Yvelines);
ing to Bloomberg Billionaires Index. The Connexion), a Paris art museum want the move to be misinterpreted as a villa in Saint-Tropez; and Nyn Park,
Outside of France, where he has and cultural centre designed by tax evasion, but not before socialist- a 129-hectare estate north of London,
topped the rich list since 2005, little renowned architect Frank Gehry, leaning newspaper Libération ran the where he built a 4,300m² country
is known about the notoriously which opened to the public in 2014. expletive-laden headline Casse-toi riche house.
private entrepreneur.
He was born in 1949 in Roubaix
You can’t put a price “You can’t put a price tag on a
dream,” he said, when asked about
con! – telling him bluntly to get lost.
As for his personal life, Mr Arnault
He owns 25 wineries around
the world, including Domaine des
(Hauts-de-France) to a wealthy family tag on a dream the final cost of the project. Media has been married twice – since 1991 Lambrays in Burgundy. He is also
and developed a fascination for his Bernard Arnault speculated it had ballooned from to the Canadian concert pianist reported to own five properties in
father’s civil engineering company initial projections of €100million to Hélène Mercier. Beverly Hills. In addition, he has a
from a young age. end up just short of €800million. He is said to be competent on the
He joined the firm in 1972 after Rather too handily, many people instrument himself, and reportedly
studying at the prestigious Ecole in a speech to students at the Ecole thought, the Fondation was able to wooed Hélène by playing to her on
Polytechnique and became executive Polytechnique in March 2017. claw back a large proportion of that one of their early dates.
director at the age of 27. When he found out Christian Dior sum thanks to a generous 60% tax cut All five of Mr Arnault’s children –
Mr Arnault soon convinced his was for sale in 1984, he made his for companies investing in cultural Delphine and Antoine from his first
father to switch the company’s focus move. Its parent company, Boussac, patronage initiatives. marriage, and Alexandre, Frédéric,

Photo: Sergey Sivkov_shutterstock

to coastal real estate and it was in this had gone bankrupt, and the French Other scandals have dogged the and Jean from his second – have roles 54-hectare island in the Bahamas
role that he first crossed paths with government was looking for a buyer. billionaire in recent years. in brands controlled by their father. archipelago and a 101m-long yacht
former US president Donald Trump in Having reportedly made assurances Mr Arnault was among the high-pro- “In the luxury business, you have to called Symphony (pictured above). He
the early 1980s, when they both that jobs would be preserved, he went file names listed in the Paradise Papers, build on heritage”, he has said in the sold his private jet, which was worth
worked in New York. on to axe around 8,000 staff and sold a leak of more than 13.4 million confi- past. He is clearly laying the ground- around €68million, after it started
Mr Arnault had moved to the US to off most of the company’s assets, apart dential electronic documents relating work for his own impressive, albeit being tracked on Twitter and now
escape what he saw as a hostile busi- from Dior. Other luxury brands foll- to offshore investments and revealing controversial, legacy. rents them instead.

Ref: A21614 €260,000 Ref: A21596 €105,000 Ref: A13775 €51,000 Ref: A19983 €1,280,000 Ref: A21392 €215,000
Lot-et-Garonne

Haute-Saône

Calvados
Isère

Gard

EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE

Agency fees paid by the seller. 8% agency fees included paid by the buyer. Agency fees paid by the seller. Agency fees paid by the seller. Agency fees paid by the seller.
DPE: Not required DPE: In progress DPE: Not required. Energy class: D Climate class: D DPE: In progress.
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques .gouv.fr

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 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Community 31

French choral revival hits all the right notes

The coronation of both in France and abroad, and
Mr Opstad attests that his choir,
contribution to take part –
€220 in the case of King Arthur.
King Charles III too, attracts a surprisingly For those wishing to recreate
showcased the diverse audience: “At Toulouse, the Coronation soundtrack, the
not only do the choristers’ picturesque village of Puycelsi
UK’s strong parents come, but also their in Tarn in the south is offering
tradition of choral friends. The French enjoy all a chance to take part in a
music. In France sorts of music, from
Renaissance to contemporary.”
themed concert on September
23 for €40. The programme
the Revolution He adds that new works have includes Handel’s Zadok the
stopped church been commissioned for the Priest and Hubert Parry’s I Was
choir and musicians are being Glad, as well as Debbie
choir schools but

Nicolas Lourdaux
trained to perform them. Wiseman’s brand new Alleluia.
the country is “These youngsters will go on Expect two days of rehearsals
now catching up to become a new generation of
singers, musicians, directors
plus the concert, all under the
expert direction of Mark
by Charlotte Visser France to study the organ at Above: and composers. Opstad. Contact arc.puycelsi@
the Caen Conservatoire. Before Maîtrise “More and more French gmail.com or call 05 63 33 15 84
WHATEVER your feelings the Revolution, he says, France de Toulouse musicians are being drawn into for reservations / more details.

Photo: Ensemble musical de Prémery

about the coronation of King had its own flourishing musical the choral tradition,” he says. For King Arthur in Tourtoirac
Charles III, it was hard not to tradition associated with the Right: A At a grassroots level, there has (July 10-13), contact Nadia
be impressed by the music. Catholic Church. Maîtrises, or touring also been a revival of choral Bersali at pacte-tourtoirac
Spanning the centuries from choir schools, used to educate Mozart opera singing. Dordogne in the @orange.fr or call 06 16 85 06 23.
William Byrd and Thomas and supply choristers to sing in Burgundy south-west is a case in point, In Burgundy, meanwhile,
Weelkes to 12 new pieces the liturgy. with numerous vocal groups amateur and professional sing-
commissioned by the king, However, as the Revolution’s specialising in a range of music, ers/musicians have recently
it reflected a vibrant musical ‘Reign of Terror’ saw church from the Renaissance to gospel, teamed up to tour with Mozart’s
tradition deeply embedded in property nationalised, priests part of local conservatoires and for weekly concerts at the jazz and pop. Ascanio in Alba opera, with
British culture: of church choirs exiled or killed, and religious serve no liturgical purpose. Royal Chapel. Meanwhile, While it is rare to find a large performances in Prémery
and choir schools, of organists orders dissolved, choir schools In Toulouse, Mr Opstad’s Lyon’s choir school, Les Petits choral society that mixes (July 9) and Nevers (October
and choral societies, and large- were disbanded and replaced by choristers attend an affiliated Chanteurs de Saint-Marc amateurs and professionals, 14), in Nièvre. For details con-
scale performances of oratorio state-run conservatoires, which school where the timetable (subsequently renamed there are a number of sizeable tact dan.krajcman@wanadoo.fr.
in all corners of the kingdom. prioritised secular music. accommodates musical prac- Maîtrise Saint-Marc), found projects with orchestras.
“I though it was fantastic,” It was in Caen that Mr tice. They perform approxi- fame in 2004 when it recorded The Dordogne village of n The Essonne town of Brunoy
says Mark Opstad, founder and Opstad first became involved mately 10 concerts a year, as choral tracks for the hit film Tourtoirac is offering a stage has been named the most music-
director of the French choir with the revival of French choir well as touring and recording. Les Choristes. de chant chorale featuring al in France, based on the num-
school Maîtrise de Toulouse. schools as assistant to Robert Other French maîtrises have Set in 1949, it tells the story Henry Purcell’s King Arthur in ber of specialist shops, venues,
“I loved the diversity of reper- Weddle, who founded the been created by Radio France of an unemployed music teach- July, for example. and music groups per capita.
toire, and of performers too.” Maîtrise de Caen in 1987. and the Centre du Baroque er who accepts the job of Bear in mind that rehearsals The data, compiled by geo-
Mr Opstad was a chorister at Since then, the growth of de Versailles. supervisor at a brutal boarding for these sorts of events are marketing specialist Smappen
Bristol Cathedral and an organ maîtrises has been steady across At Versailles, the schoolchil- school for boys and transforms often considered as musical in June, puts it ahead of Biarritz
scholar at Balliol College, France, although, bar a few dren (les pages) join forces with pupils’ lives by forming a choir. tuition and so singers can and Paris, which rounded out
Oxford, before moving to notable exceptions, they are the adult students (les chantres) The film was hugely popular be asked for a financial the top three.

Medical students care for teddies Vegetable gardens offer fresh

to ease children’s fear of hospitals produce and job prospects
EVERY YEAR, thousands of cuddly
toys are taken to see a doctor, as part
of a programme designed to make
children more comfortable around
Photo: Association Amicale des Étudiants en Médecine de Strasbourg

healthcare workers.
The Teddy Bear Hospital project
was launched in Germany in 2000,
and has spread to several countries,

Photo: Les Restos du Cœur

including the UK and Australia.
In France, it has been run by volun-
teers from local students’ associations
since 2004, under the name Hôpital Some of those who receive meals from Les Restos
des Nounours. du Cœur also volunteer to help grow ingredients
Children aged five to seven bring
their teddy bear to the fictitious GROWING your own food not dens specialised in chili peppers, for
hospital where medical students work only has health benefits, but can which there is a lot of demand, but
alongside other specialities, such as also reduce loneliness and teach you which you don’t find elsewhere.”
pharmacy and dentistry. The visits employable skills – this is the idea Half of the gardens have a parallel
are organised through schools. Around 10,000 children in France visit a ‘Teddy Bear Hospital’ each year behind the Jardins du Cœur project. aim of helping vulnerable people to
“They start with the secretary, who Charity Les Restos du Cœur distrib- re-enter the workforce. They are
will weigh the teddy and see what ‘white coat syndrome’ – the anxiety your teeth three times a day. For the uted 142 million meals to people in employed on specific contracts if
brings them there,” said Chloé Hardt, children and even many adults feel students, it is also a valuable experi- need last year. A small proportion of they have been unemployed for a
who coordinates the project nation- when in a medical environment. ence. It is an opportunity to learn how the ingredients are grown in its net- long time or face other challenges.
wide for the ANEMF medical “By familiarising children with the to interact with children, often for the work of 100 community gardens. They are supported by volunteers
students’ union. different roles and treatments, it is first time in their training, and a rare Many of these are found in western and professionals, who teach garden-
Children are invited to invent a hoped they will be less stressed when chance to work alongside students France, where the first gardens were ing skills while helping them to over-
health problem for their personal it is their turn to visit the doctor. from other courses and departments. set up in the 1990s. come difficulties in areas such as
teddy bears. “It gives a more positive represent- “Those interprofessional relations The produce is cultivated by volun- health and housing.
“Then they see the nounoursologue, ation of the hospital,” said Ms Hardt. will be important later on. We are teers, with the help of those who “It allows people to feel useful, to
who is like the GP. Depending on the “They can be intimidated when they rarely required to work together benefit from the free meals. It is a learn to work as part of a team, and
diagnosis, they could be sent for extra arrive and we are able to put them during our studies, so it is a first way of producing “local, quality creates social links for people who
exams. If their leg is hurting, we will at ease. We have students who did contact with all of the specialities.” fruit and vegetables”, said Mathilde often feel lonely,” said Ms Serange.
check whether it is broken, and take it when they were children, and it’s All of France’s 36 medical schools Serange, project manager at the The charity has partnerships with
them to see the radiologist, then the something that stays with them.” participate in the programme, with charity. It is an invaluable service companies such as Vilmorin, which
surgeon, and finally the physical It allows medical schools to play the hospitals set up either inside real as inflation pushes food prices up. provides seeds, and with farmers.
therapist for rehabilitation.” their part in promoting a healthy life- hospitals, or in rented rooms such as “There is a diversity that responds You can sign up to volunteer or make
The goal is to reduce the effects of style, such as exercising and brushing local sports halls. to people’s demands. There are gar- a donation at restosducoeur.org.
 32 Practical connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Farmers have a duty to protect you from pesticide

THE COUNTRYSIDE is popular for Vineyards are among the on birds. But often, when the regula- pesticides to meet food standards,
living in, but it also comes with its crops where pesticides tions are not respected in terms of the and extending no-spray zones would
share of challenges, not least the are frequently used environment or biodiversity, they are further reduce available farmland.
potential exposure to pesticides. not respected around questions of “The real question is which techniques
The issue is particularly a problem health, either. allow for a drift equal to zero,” he said.
during the summer, when wine- “You are also supposed to be able Nouvelle-Aquitaine’s regional health
growers seek to protect their vines. to turn to the mayor, but often the authority recently published advice
The Connexion was contacted by mayor is himself a farmer or has lots for people who live beside farmland.
Nick, a reader who lives close to the of farmers on his council, so we It includes washing and peeling fruit
Gironde Estuary and describes a encourage people to go to external and vegetables from gardens close to
back-and-forth with the owner of a agents, like the OFB.” treated land, and waiting three days

Photo: Shutterstock_ nikonka1

vineyard adjoining his property. You can also file a complaint with from when they might have been
“He frequently sprays the vines with your local gendarmerie, preferably sprayed before eating them.
chemical insecticide, fertiliser, pesti- armed with proof such as photos It encourages residents to wash their
cide and the ground around the vines and videos, and potentially a constat hands regularly and keep their finger-
with a very strong weedkiller,” he said. d’huissier (bailiff ’s report). nails short. Pets should be given a
“So strong that it kills everything in The France Nature Environnement bath at least once a week, you should
days, including damaging my hedges, (19km/h). This is likely to be the case after France’s highest administrative (FNE) federation has created a web- avoid walking dirt into the house, and
fruit trees, shrubs, plants and the if small branches are in movement and court, the Conseil d’Etat, ruled the site and mobile app, called Sentinelles children’s toys that are kept outside
grass with the spray drift up to five loose paper is lifted away. existing distances – often as low as de la nature, where you can report should be washed regularly.
metres inside the fence line. I have When pesticides are used near a three metres – were insufficient. violations, and a regional point of A study into the effects of pesticides
found dead birds and hedgehogs on facility where there are vulnerable Products known (and not just sus- contact will help you find a solution. in winegrowing regions on local
my side of the fence.” people, such as schools, hospitals and peted) to cause the above effects must A document from FNE Normandie residents and gardens is under way,
Nick says he is worried about the retirement homes, appropriate protect- have a 20-metre no-spray zone. says: “Ask for the inquiry to identify with the results due next year.
cancer risk from chemicals which ive measures must be put in place, If you believe farmers are not precisely the product used and for its An interactive map showing pesti-
are “so strong I can taste it”, and has “such as hedgerows, equipment for the respecting these regulations – for Autorisation de Mise sur le Marché cide use at commune level is available
contacted the farmer to explain his treatment, or dates and times of treat- example, if you notice leaves falling (market authorisation) number. You at tinyurl.com/pesticidemap.
fears, to little effect. ment to avoid the presence of vulner- from a tree in your garden or a patch may also take a sample yourself and Meanwhile, a new report has found
“I should not have to wear a mask to able people”. If this is not possible, of grass that turns orange – your first send it to a specialised laboratory.” pesticide companies failed to disclose
enjoy my garden,” he said. authorities can impose minimum dis- course of action should be to try to Pesticide use is regulated by depart- a number of studies assessing brain
A government decree published on tances where products cannot be used. discuss the issue with the farmer. mental charters, and last year these toxicity to EU regulators. Researchers
May 4, 2017, states: “Whatever the Another decree published earlier If they are not responsive, you can were updated to include an obligation from Stockholm University discovered
weather conditions during the use of this year introduced a minimum contact environmental agency the for farmers to inform local residents nine studies, produced between 2001
[pesticides], appropriate means must 10-metre no-spray zone between Office français de la biodiversité before using pesticides. However, this and 2007, which were withheld.
be applied to avoid their spread away crops where pesticides are used and (OFB), which can investigate. often means simply turning on the Findings included changes in brain
from the parcel or the treated zone.” homes, for products that are ‘suspect- Nadine Lauverjat, of the association flashing light on the tractor. size and delayed sexual maturation in
While the decree is vague, it does say ed’ to cause cancer, genetic mutations Générations Futures, said: “They only Hervé Lapie, chief administrative laboratory rats. The report claims EU
that pesticides cannot be used in spray or damage to the reproductive pro- intervene for spraying that causes officer of the FNSEA, France’s largest authorities learned of the studies
or dust form if the wind force is great- cess, if the authorisation does not problems to biodiversity, such as a farmers’ union, previously told The between 2017 and 2022, contributing

Did you know?

er than three on the Beaufort scale impose a specific distance. This came hedge which is sprayed, with effects Connexion that farmers are reliant on to a number of regulatory changes.

Most married couples pay less

income tax in France than in the UK!
This is not an opinion, but a statement of fact!
If France is supposed to be a high tax country
how can this possibly be?
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 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Practical: Money 33

The Connexion
Money / Tax

Who has to pay Crackdown plan for

social security fraud

the local property

A SOCIAL security fraud crackdown is planned
to recover the billions believed to be lost through
non-payment of cotisations or fake benefit claims.

Photo: shutterstock_Pormezz
One concern relates to the use of online buying

taxes after a sale?

and selling platforms, such as eBay or leboncoin,
by micro-entrepreneurs.
Next year, a contact point will be set up for
Urssaf and workers to resolve issues over unpaid
contributions ‘amicably’ without penalties. It is
also planned that from 2026 French sites will
WE SOLD our second home this year. The declare micro-entrepreneurs’ turnover to Urssaf
notaire collected from the buyer a sum pro- Send your financial queries to and that from 2027 there will be at-source levies.
portional to outstanding taxe foncière, which There will be increased checks into unusually
he passed on, telling us to continue paying
Hugh MacDonald at high prescription costs and also more checks
this for 2023. We thought we had no more
money@connexionfrance.com. Please ensure you mark into claims for sick pay and scrutiny of poten-
responsibility for taxe d’habitation and can- your emails for the attention of Mr MacDonald tially fake declarations of work accidents.
celled our direct debit. However, now the tax Social security bodies will liaise with prefect-
office says they are going to reinstate it or ures to check benefits are not being paid to any
we will ‘lose our benefits’. Why is this? J.B.
What are the fiscal implications if I rent out foreign people whose residency cards have been
cancelled. Next year family or housing benefits

my inherited house for a couple of years?

AS FAR as the tax office is concerned, you remain and income top-ups will also be limited to peo-
liable for local property taxes where you owned ple resident at least nine months of the year.
(taxe foncière) or had available for use (taxe
d’habitation) a property on January 1 of the year.
It is common, however, for there to be an agree-
I LIVE in France and recently inherited a
house, which is proving difficult to sell.
lets. For example, if you let it furnished as
someone’s home under the Micro-Bic regime,
‘Green wealth tax’ row
ment for the seller to receive a pro rata payment What are the tax implications if I rent it out you will be taxed on 50% of the proceeds. AN IDEA for a new ‘green’ wealth tax, making
from the buyer for part of the taxe foncière, and if for a couple of years before selling? R.S. We cover this more in our annual income tax wealthy people contribute extra towards the
this is the case, it should be written into the acte guide but it might be useful also to take profess- measures required to make France more
de vente sale deeds. It sounds as if this was done WE ASSUME you have already settled any ional advice to make sure you understand your eco-friendly, has been ruled out by Economy
correctly, but there might have been a misunder- inheritance tax that you might have owed on obligations. Minister Bruno Le Maire.
standing about the taxe d’habitation. the property, or that you were exempt due to If the house goes up in value, you would also The ecology minister had said this should be
It is not usual for there to be any arrangement the allowances linked to family relationship have to pay capital gains tax on the difference looked into but Mr Le Maire said neither the
with regard to this, so normally, where it is still with the person who bequeathed it. between the value when you inherited it and president nor the prime minister think it is suit-
payable in 2023 (not for main homes), the seller If you rent the property out, you must declare the value when you sell it, at 19% plus social able, especially as France already has the highest
has to pay the bill completely for this year. the rental income in the following year’s French charges. The latter are 17.2% unless you are taxation among the OECD group of developed
So, most likely this is why the tax office has income declaration. So if you do it in 2023, this attached to an EEA/Swiss/UK social security economies. He said it risked causing a ‘fiscal
queried you stopping your direct debit set-up. would be declared in May-June 2024. system for your healthcare and so can benefit allergy’ among the 10% wealthiest people.
We presume you are referring to mensualis- The method of declaration depends on whether from a reduction to 7.5%. There are allowances The idea had been especially supported on the
ation advance payments. If you are not paying you rent it out furnished or unfurnished and if it that can reduce the taxable capital gain but they Left, with one Green MP saying it is “obvious
these, you would otherwise have to pay the bill becomes someone’s home or is used for holiday only begin after six full years’ ownership. because there will be no ecological transition
in full in the autumn when it falls due. without social justice”. However a centre-right

Why was I refused 15% expenses claim?

We suggest checking your deeds or speaking to MP said “there is nothing worse than yoyo-ing
the notaire, but most likely there was a misunder- on tax” (referring to the replacement of the
standing on your part, and you should tell the former ISF wealth tax with a version based solely
tax office. Possibly ‘losing benefits’ refers to the I UNDERSTOOD that one can use an abate- incurred but where you cannot provide proof of on property assets by President Macron).
‘benefit’ of spreading the payment over the year. ment of 15% of the cost of a second home them. The law also says relevant expenses can
for improvements made, even if none can be relate to construction, enlargement or ‘improve- Taxe foncière set to rise
How to invest in gold proven, to offset against capital gains on
sale. I have been told by the fiscal rep this
ment’. However, the latter must bring an addition-
al level of comfort or amenities. TAXE foncière bills are expected to rise steeply
WHAT are the options to invest in gold? K.G. only applies to building work, not renovation In recent years, top administrative body the almost everywhere this year.
or maintenance. Can you clarify? J.B. Conseil d’état confirmed a decision refusing the This tax is based on half of a property’s theo-
MANY French high street banks offer the possi- benefit to a person who had admitted not doing retical rental values (VLC), along with a percent-
bility of ordering gold bars or coins, so this is a THE LAW provides that you may add 15% to the any actual works. As a result, anyone claiming it age applied by the local council.
simple option, along with buying from specialist purchase price to allow for improvements in the where they did not do relevant work should bear However, few communes have so far opted to
sellers in person and online (in the latter case, it is case of working out a capital gain on the sale of in mind that it is possible for the tax office to lower their own rates to compensate for an
couriered, with insurance). You can buy gold ‘on homes built more than five years ago. question this, though it would have to have proof. across-the-board rise of 7.1% in VLC. Some
paper’ via dedicated investment funds (Sicav, FCP, In the past, it has often been assumed this may So, if you admitted to the rep doing no legally communes, on the contrary, have opted to
ETF, index trackers) or mining company shares. be applied automatically where a seller is not relevant work, this is likely why they advised not increase their rates, which has a corresponding
Holding some gold is often seen as a safe bet claiming named expenses, with invoices and bank to claim. Property capital gains of residents out- impact on bills, with Quimperlé (Brittany), for
though it might not give rapid returns. It recent- statements. The actual legal code, in context, side the EU (including the UK since Brexit) are example, increasing its rate by 15% and Limoges
ly reached a historic high of nearly €60/g. shows that it was meant to allow for real expenses subject to extra scrutiny through these fiscal reps. by 10%, in both cases to help cover pay rises for
council workers and extra energy costs.
The Connexion welcomes queries and publishes a selection with answers in The information on these pages is of a general nature. Do not take action, Experts have also warned homeowners to
every edition. However, please note that we cannot enter into correspondence or refrain from taking action based on this information. Seek professional
advice on the specific facts of your case. No liability is accepted in respect watch out for increases in tax for rubbish collec-
on money topics. Queries may be edited for length and style. Due to the sensi- of these articles. These articles are intended only as a general guide. tion or the ‘Gemapi’ tax for flood prevention,
tive nature of topics we do not publish full names or addresses on these pages. Nothing herein constitutes actual financial advice. which are added to taxe foncière bills.
 34 Practical: Money connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Know your tax position before making any move

This column is by Rob Kay, a income. This is generally 9.7% for employment as tax planning, even if you do not expect to live a future government. As always, take regulated
senior partner at Blevins Franks income, 9.1% for pension income, and 17.2% here forever. professional advice tailored to your situation.
for investment income. Life is unpredictable and if you are resident in
financial advice group (blevins-
Retirees with an S1 form escape social charges France at the time of your death, your heirs will Before you move to France
franks.com). Rob has decades of on pensions and pay a lower 7.5% rate on invest- be affected by French succession law and tax. Weigh up the tax implications of selling your
experience advising UK nationals ment income. A medium rate of 7.4% can apply French succession law includes forced heirship UK property, business and investments while
in France and features regularly to pension income for those with lower incomes. rules, so under French-law rules you cannot still UK tax-resident, compared to selling as a
in the media discussing the Investment income benefits from a special fixed leave your entire estate to your spouse if you French resident.
issues affecting expatriates here rate of 30%, which includes both income tax and have children. This way, you will be able to time your move to
social charges. Those on lower incomes can opt The European ‘Brussels IV’ succession regula- France accordingly.
ARE YOU planning a move to France? Or have for the ordinary income tax bands. tion allows you to opt in advance for the law of
you recently started a new life here? your country of nationality to apply instead of Overall planning
Either way, it is important to prepare for Wealth tax on real estate French law, though protected heirs can still make Your UK tax-efficient vehicles might not be as
French taxation and adjust your wealth Impôt sur la fortune immobilière (IFI) is an a claim for assets located in France. attractive in France, so review your tax planning
management accordingly. annual tax applied to the combined real estate Take cross-border advice to understand all the and how you hold assets.
Generally, if you arrive in France with the assets of a household, though it only affects those pros and cons and if you have not yet bought prop- There are arrangements available in France
intention to live here indefinitely, you become with property assets exceeding €1,300,000, after erty, familiarise yourself with succession law first. that can prove very advantageous, tax-wise, for
tax-resident here immediately. allowances including 30% of the value of the There are various ways of owning property in both you and your heirs. They can also provide
You are deemed resident for tax purposes main home. The first €800,000 is tax-free, then France, and they each have succession tax and succession planning benefits.
if your main home is in France, or it is your rates range from 0.5% to 1.5%. law implications. Establish which option best While preparing for French taxation is a major
principle place of abode (you spend 183 days suits your situation. part of relocating here, to create a successful
here a year), or your principle activity or centre Succession tax wealth management strategy you should look
of economic interests is in France. French inheritance tax is charged on each Pensions at the whole picture, including estate planning,
To protect your wealth from unnecessary tax- beneficiary, with rates and allowances varying Retirees should also review their pension funds pensions, savings and investments.
ation, take time to research the various liabilities considerably according to who the beneficiary is. and whether they might benefit, for example, The way you hold the latter, for example, can
you are exposed to and how they affect you. Inheritances between spouses/Pacs partners are from moving them to a Qualifying Recognised make a big difference to how they are taxed and
The French tax regime is complex but it does tax-free (but not gifts) and children have lower Overseas Pension Scheme. The advantages how easily they can be passed to your heirs.
present opportunities to improve your tax rates and higher allowances than more distant include more currency, investment and estate Planning a tax-efficient move to France involves
position, particularly regarding investment relations. You should be particularly careful planning flexibility. both French and UK taxation, so talk to a special-
capital and pensions. where stepchildren and non-married partners Alternatively, you could potentially take your ist cross-border adviser. They should be familiar
are involved, as their tax-free allowance is very UK pension fund, if coming across from there, with the interaction between both regimes and
Income taxes low and the tax rate is generally 60%. as a lump sum and possibly pay just 7.5% tax in regularly advise on effective planning strategies.
Income tax rates for 2022 income (declared in While these figures may be daunting, there are France under certain circumstances (plus 9.1%
2023) range from 11% for income over €10,777 often steps you can take to improve your tax social charges unless you escape them, as noted n Tax rates, scope and reliefs may change. Any
to 45% for income over €168,994. position, sometimes considerably so, particularly above). You could then re-invest the capital in statements concerning taxation are based upon our,
An additional 3% or 4% tax is levied on income for investment capital and inheritances. tax-efficient arrangements. Blevins Franks, understanding of current taxation
over €250,000 and €500,000 respectively, with Moving your pension out of the UK would also laws and practices which are subject to change. Tax
higher thresholds for families. Estate planning protect you if the UK Lifetime Allowance charge information has been summarised; an individual is
Social charges are additionally payable on In France, estate planning is almost as important (abolished in the 2023 budget) is reinstated by advised to seek personalised advice.

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French li
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MAKING YOUR LIFE
IN FRANCE
LESS TAXING

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FRENCH NEWS IN ENGLISH SINCE 2002 neHomes
Inter vie Gardens
June/July 2023 w: Interview
Héloïse composer
connexionfrance.com Issue 248 €6.25 s Events
UK family appeals 28 areas at high New property form Luzzati FRENCH
NEWS
P5
Limousin
IN ENGLISH
SINCE

for help over mystery drought risk, water latest as June

2002

to explo gardens
P39
Photo: 135pixels_shutterstock

death at ski resort use rules updated deadline nears P2 / P8

re

Senators back Playing first fiddle Banks must

refund card

proposal for
fraud victims
more easily
BANKS have been reminded
by the Banque de France of

second-home
their obligations to refund cli-
ents who fall victim to card
fraud, usually within 24 hours.
It comes as the number of
frauds in France is dropping
but banks have become more

owner visas
reluctant to refund quickly.
For two years, banks have
required two-factor authentifi-
cation, such as entering a code
sent to your phone, for pur-
chases in the EU of €30 plus.
The BdF says a client must
Lawmakers want to ease red tape for six-month stays be given the benefit of the
doubt unless there is real rea-
by Liv Rowland five-year visa, include senators Martine Berthet son to suspect fraud or negli-
and Cédric Vial (Savoie), Philippe Mouiller gence, including when two
SUPPORT is growing in the French parliament and Gilbert Favreau (Deux-Sèvres), Nicole factors were required. If two
for more flexible visa rules for foreign Bonnefoy (Charente), Philippe Bas (Manche) factors were not used, 24 hours
second-home owners. and Jean-Claude Requier (Lot), as well as MPs should always be respected.
Several senators and at least three MPs now Caroline Colombier (Charente) and Philippe Banks have 30 days to take
back the idea of a five-year visa for this group Fait (Pas-de-Calais). money back if they find proof
that would allow visits of up to six months a year MP Xavier Roseren (Haute-Savoie) also said that the client was at fault.
in total during the five-year validity period. he would “study the legal situation attentively”
This would be separate to the 90 days in 180
Schengen visa-free rule that applies to non-EU
regarding British homeowners in France.
Earlier this year, Ms Imbert submitted a pro-
Car test change
visitors, including second-home owners. posal for an amendment backing the five-year THE number of checks under-
Currently, second-home owners must submit visa to a new Immigration Bill. taken during the contrôle tech-
full paperwork each time they want a visa to visit The bill was postponed and is now due to be nique car roadworthiness test
for four to six months and go through the same introduced to parliament in a new version in July. has increased to 136.
in-person visit process. A fee is due every time. Ms Imbert said in March: “I will take advantage of The eCall, which in recent
The proposed visa could be for all national- the new text to re-submit the amendment.” cars alerts emergency services
ities, and not just Britons post-Brexit. She said it was most likely to be seen as in the case of an accident, will
The idea is possible as France is free to set its acceptable if it was for all foreign second-home now be tested.
Photo: Helene Luzzati

own national rules on visas and residency owners. It had more chance of passing, she The OBFCM that measures
cards, whereas the 90/180-day rule is a general said, than a deal offering a special six-month how much fuel or electricity
Schengen area policy. visa waiver only for British owners. the car has used will also be
The government also indicated after a recent French and other EU visitors can spend six monitored (unless you opt out)

Cellist Héloïse Luzzati’s

AULD FR
France-UK summit that more flexible rules for months in the UK visa-free. and data sent to the EU. This is
British visitors, in particular, could be looked at. Senators can submit amendments for debate to see if cars are performing as
Members of the France Visa Free campaign when the house examines laws as long as they well as during factory tests.

mission to shine a light on

A NCE
group (tinyurl.com/france-visa-free) have shared are deemed to be legal and appropriate. Fees are not expected to rise.
with us the support of other lawmakers for Campaigners continue to argue, however, that
changes since we reported about Charente- the case of British homeowners is special as
forgotten female musicians L 14574 - 248 H - F: 6,25 € - RD

Celebrat
Maritime senator Corinne Imbert in April. many bought as EU citizens but are now subject
Those who have so far supported more flex- to non-EU citizen rules, often without having
INTERVIEW FRENCH LIVING
ible rules for second-home owners, such as a è Turn to Page 2

frolaw an ing Fr
m high
79 years on, Nazi ‘The EU flag is New health
no longer a P15 aims to simplify land ga ce’s Scottish
victim is identified mes to lin
symbol of peace access to care a kilt so ks,
Photo: Claude JACQUIER

by watch in photo within Europe’ ciety

P7 Photo: sylv1rob1
P3

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The Kilt
Photo:

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 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Ideas 35

Old trailers reborn as buildings All-over tan swimwear

A COUPLE who spend
most of their time surfing
have developed what they
by Brian McCulloch are handed the keys and get a mod- claim is the first swimwear
ular building with all facilities after in France that lets you tan
AN ENTERPRISING duo have less than a day’s work.” through it.
found a new use for end-of-life Rentals cost around €1,000 a The range includes board-
refrigerated lorry trailers – they month. At the end of the lease, shorts and bikinis, and they

Photos: Bikunu
upcycle them into accommodation Regoods lifts the unit off the have proved a hit with
for seasonal workers and pop-up foundations and back on to a naturists especially.
bars for festivals. lorry to take it away. “They cannot be naked all Tan-through
The massive 40-tonne vehicles The housing modules under the time, and so they turn to swimwear
that roll along the main roads of development are aimed primarily our costumes to preserve that
France have a bureaucratic limit at seasonal workers. all-over tan,” said Luc Dessauvages, 58, who
on their lifespan. This demographic generally formed Bikunu with his wife Alexandra in 2021.

Photos: Regoods
Every 12 years, the cooling boxes requires accommodation in areas “That’s been a surprise. We thought our first
have to go through an extensive and that are either hot in summer or buyers would be people like us who spend a
expensive inspection for recertific- cold in winter. The insulation, lot of time on and in the water, but as soon as
ation, regardless of whether they are Design for a cultural centre bar made from a refrigerated lorry trailer therefore, is a big advantage. word got out, we had lots of naturist customers,
working well. The result is that most used until they break down and are housing, similar to mobile homes, Prices have not been confirmed as well as people with swimming pools who
are sold cheaply and exported to scrapped. Now, however, a Lyon in 2025. Early clients have included but will probably be in the €50,000 spend much of their time outside and don’t
Africa, where they continue to be firm called Regoods has partnered breweries, which have used the range, and the company hopes all want white marks.”

“
with one of the country’s main units as mobile bars. “We are lucky units will meet RT2020 building The couple, who live near Cannes, tried
refrigerated trailer makers, because the basic refrigerated trailer standards. costumes from abroad that claimed to allow
Lamberet, to convert them into is strong – it has to be able to sup- The development of Regoods has all-over tans, but found them uncomfortable
modular buildings. port the weight of around 30 tonnes been helped by new laws requiring or transparent. Then they discovered a material
Alexandre Dufrenne, who co- of frozen food,” said Mr Dufrenne. manufacturers to plan for when patented by a Dutch company that filters UV,
founded the company last year, “They are also well-insulated with products reach the end of their life. blocking the most harmful rays. It means you
Clients get said: “The wheels, refrigeration unit foam which, unfortunately, will “For Lamberet, our partnership can tan underneath while still enjoying some
and chassis are taken by Lamberet, never biodegrade. It can only be means they now have a much protection from the sun.
a modular and we are left with the floor, insu- destroyed by burning, releasing toxic greener way of dealing with old “We like to think we are the first in the market
lated walls and ceilings. chemicals in the process. So instead trailers,” said Mr Dufrenne. in France,” said Mr Dessauvages. “It has been a
building with “From this, we have developed of incinerating or burying it in land- “We take the refrigerated part, steep learning curve and swimming costume
Photos: Regoods

a system, using timber cladding fill, reusing it as a building is ideal.” while they take the chassis, refriger- design is more complex than it first appears.
all facilities outside and inside, to give us light The units are designed by his ator unit and wheels, all of which “We also had to experiment with colours and
after less than modular buildings, which are
obviously very well insulated.”
co-founder Mattia Paco Rizzi, an
architect. They are delivered to the
can be used to make new trailers.
“People talk about the importance
inks to find ones that allowed attractive designs
without interfering with the tan.”
a day’s work The firm is renting out the struc- site on a lorry fitted with a crane, of taking climate change seriously The fabric is manufactured in Germany but
tures for events, such as music and installed on light foundations. and working for the environment. sewn into costumes in France.
Alexandre Dufrenne, festivals, to make sure the concept “It’s like a plug-and-play computer, We believe this is a practical way of Boardshorts cost from €90 and bikinis from
Regoods works. It hopes to expand into said Mr Dufrenne. “Our customers doing so.” €120 through the company’s website.

Insoles keep toes toasty by

using energy of your steps True cross-border
COLD feet in winter and sweaty toes during

expertise pays
summer could soon be a thing of the past,
thanks to an innovative insole developed by
a self-described ‘serial inventor’.
Bruno Aubert got the idea after a medical

dividends.
condition left him with cold feet most winters.
He was inspired to take it further when an
acquaintance told him he suffered the same
fate as a result of his job.
“I have a friend who works in a cold storage
logistics depot in the United States. It is -30C
and he sometimes has to spend eight hours a
Photo: Bruno Lambert

day in the cold,” Mr Aubert told The Connexion.

“He had boots with electric heaters in them,
but the battery only lasted two hours and
everything had to stop while the batteries Bruno Aubert and his Climfeet insole
With offices across France, Spain, Talk to the people who know
were changed.”
Portugal, Cyprus, Malta and the UK,
Mr Aubert, from Banyuls-sur-Mer in Pyrénées- been a few runners and people who work out- and with advisers living locally and teams 0 805 112 163 (N0 Vert)
Orientales, started experimenting with flexible side in the winter,” Mr Aubert said. of experts, Blevins Franks specialises in france@blevinsfranks.com
insoles that produce heat when the air inside “There have been a few delays but supplies providing integrated, cross-border wealth
them is compressed – in the same way that an from our partner factories are starting again.” management solutions.
old-fashioned bicycle pump gets warm. The insoles are made of silicon from China www.blevinsfranks.com
This heat is then transferred to the foot side and assembled in France at a factory in Lyon. Whether you are moving to or living in
of the sole through a one-way valve, while the Competitive runners can expect a pair to last France, returning to the UK, or trying to
other side stays cool. a year, but this extends to two years for less decide where you are better off being tax
“It is the person’s weight that compresses the frequent runners or people who use them resident, we can help. We have extensive
air, so there are no extra mechanical or electrical while working or standing most of the day.
systems needed,” Mr Aubert said. His friend from the cold storage unit now knowledge of the French and UK tax
“You just have to walk for five minutes before has a pair and has given positive feedback. regimes, the interaction between them,
you start to feel the warmth.” “He says he does not have a sensation of heat, as and legitimate tax planning opportunities.
In summer, the insoles can be turned over and he had with the electric insoles, but at the same
reversed left/right so the cool side is in contact time, his feet never feel cold,” said Mr Aubert.
with the foot. The Climfeet insoles are Mr Aubert’s third INTERNATIONAL TAX ADVICE • INVESTMENTS • ESTATE PLANNING • PENSIONS
The soles are thin enough – less than 6mm – major invention.
to allow them to be inserted into most shoes His first was a device to improve navigation on Blevins Franks Group is represented in France by the following companies: Blevins Franks Wealth Management Limited (BFWML) and Blevins Franks France

without having to remove the original insole. ships, which was sold to a large US company. His SASU (BFF). BFWML is authorised and regulated by the Malta Financial Services Authority, registered number C 92917. Authorised to conduct investment
services under the Investment Services Act and authorised to carry out insurance intermediary activities under the Insurance Distribution Act. Where advice
The first production run of the insoles, called second invention, a mini air quality sensor, also is provided outside of Malta via the Insurance Distribution Directive or the Markets in Financial Instruments Directive II, the applicable regulatory system
differs in some respects from that of Malta. BFWML also provides taxation advice; its tax advisers are fully qualified tax specialists. Blevins Franks France
Climfeet, sold out within days on the company’s found a buyer. SASU (BFF), is registered with ORIAS, registered number 07 027 475, and authorised as ‘Conseil en Investissements Financiers’ and ‘Courtiers d’Assurance’
Category B (register can be consulted on www.orias.fr). Member of ANACOFI-CIF. BFF’s registered office: 1 rue Pablo Neruda, 33140 Villenave d’Ornon – RCS
website, even though they cost €79 a pair. Mr Aubert said he still has new ideas in his BX 498 800 465 APE 6622Z. Garantie Financière et Assurance de Responsabilité Civile Professionnelle conformes aux articles L 541-3 du Code Monétaire et
190-fr

Financier and L512-6 and 512-7 du Code des Assurances (assureur MMA). Blevins Franks Trustees Limited is authorised and regulated by the Malta Financial
“Buyers are mainly women over 45 years old head but wants to concentrate on building Services Authority for the administration of retirement schemes. This promotion has been approved and issued by BFWML.

who suffer from cold feet, but there have also Climfeet into a global company first.
 36 Work connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Online registration
The company has a focus on
traditional axes, scythes and
hoes, often crafted by local

process skews data

carpenters

for new businesses CRAFTS

THE NUMBER of new busi- ation to all the state bodies
in focus
nesses in France has dropped concerned, including the tax
slightly this year, although office, Urssaf, which collects Traditional tool seller –
the national statistics agency, social security contributions, Marchand d’outils
which released the figures, and chambres de commerce et traditionnels
concedes the data is uncertain. d’industrie.

Business graduate finds the

Insee said that gathering However, the final registra-
information for 2023 has been tion of a business and issuing
hampered by changes to the of a Siren number can only be
way new businesses are set up. done once the various bodies
Since the start of the year, the have validated the form.

tools to tackle climate crisis

process has been entirely online. The move online has seen
While this option has been the number of questions from
available for at least a decade, these bureaucrats increase, and
you could previously submit a so the time taken to issue a
paper form via centres de form- Siren has also grown.
alités des entreprises (CFEs). Despite this, Insee was confi- Thibaud Morthelier created his traditional
CFEs were usually found dent enough to issue numbers hand tool business in 2021 after growing
sharing offices with the cham- for the first quarter, albeit with disillusioned with corporate life in Lyon
bre de commerce et d’industrie a caveat warning that they
or chambre d’agriculture in might change later.
most departmental prefectures, They showed the number of
but have now been shut down. new businesses set up in France
Insee said the move to purely – some 87,405 – was down
online registration has compli- 0.4% compared to 2022.
cated, rather than streamlined, The auto-entrepreneur regime
its data-gathering process. is still very popular and
It said in a statement: “This accounted for 54,709 of new
major change has temporarily businesses, with the rest regis-
hindered the monthly collec- tered under more traditional
tion of data about business regimes.
creation, largely because of Insee identified a marked
delays in registering business decline in the number of new
creations in the Sirene register.” businesses related to teaching,
This directory gives the health and social services.
address, number of employees New transport businesses,
and date of creation of all which had surged during Covid

Photos: Thibaud Morthelier

businesses in France, as well lockdowns, also fell sharply.
as a Siren number. The start of the online regis-
The Siren (système d’ident- tration process in January was
ification du répertoire des entre- chaotic, with auto-entrepren-
prises) identifies the company eurs in particular complaining
according to the order of regis- that what used to be a simple
tration on the Sirene list. process was now an hours-long by Théophile Larcher embraced the simpler lifestyle have to learn to live by slowing through a partnership with BR
It remains the same through- challenge. that his move to the country down and finding the right Rinaldi, a three centuries-old
out the life of the business and The situation was not helped A BUSINESS school graduate afforded, including chopping balance between their lifestyle Italian family specialising in
is used for all dealings with by a cyberattack, which closed who left corporate life for a wood and learning how to use and nature’s pace,” he said. axes, billhooks, machetes and
public bodies and administ- the system for two days. “simpler, most sustainable life- a scythe to harvest cereals. Rather than one-size-fits-all, other tools that excel in hard-
rative organisations. Since then, however, the situ- style” is now working to revive He documented his efforts on as is the case for the majority use environments.
Insee explained that the new ation seems to have improved traditional garden tools. social media and was surprised of garden implements we use The firm’s strapline claims
online registration form auto- and the number of complaints He says this can help the by the interest, especially from today, his tools can be adapted hand tools will “set you free” –
matically transmits inform- has reduced. planet and make people those looking for tips on how to individual needs and tasks. a philosophy expounded by a
happier and healthier. to use the tools themselves. He gives the example of 19th number of high-profile French
Heatwaves: bosses must Thibaud Morthelier, 32, quit
the ratrace after becoming
With modern garden centres
favouring standardised or
century axes, which had wood-
en handles so that users could
writers on climate and ecolog-
ical issues that Mr Morthelier

evaluate the risk to staff

disillusioned with how far big power tools, he spotted a gap in saw them down to adjust the cites as inspiration.
firms can act as a force for good the market for traditional axes, tool their height. His customer base is diverse,
in today’s competitive markets. scythes and hoes and created Many modern axes, however, he says.
Q: I have trouble concentrat- evaluation, the organisation of He wrote a thesis on the sub- La Frontière in 2021. are a standard 90cm length It includes everyone from
ing during very hot spells. the workplace can be changed. ject during his time at Paris’s The website claims to be for with handles made from plastic middle-aged gardeners fed-up
Do I have to go to work in a Examples include having differ- Idrac business school before people “who want to live a that cannot be cut, preventing with the noise of their mowers
heatwave? Our office does not ent hours of work and stopping moving into a role as business simpler, healthier and more customisation. to full-on survivalists, and
have airconditioning F.G. hard physical labour during the manager at Public Actif and as resilient life”. Hoes, he continues, are now everything in-between.
hottest part of the day. a social entrepreneurship and It continues: “More than just offered only in a very limited La Frontière does not offer
A: The answer is yes, you do still Homeworking should be innovation manager at pharm- a source of quality tools, La range, whereas a century 24/7 customer service, nor
need to go to work, but your encouraged where possible, aceutical company Sanofi. Frontière is a call to slow down, ago there would have been does it promise to deliver in 48
employer must take care of you. especially for pregnant women, However, he began to suspect to learn to do without artificial hundreds of types tailored to hours or make any other claims
Special measures have to be people with long-term health that in many instances a energy and to rediscover the different surfaces and purposes. of ‘convenience’ or ‘savings’
implemented in the workplace conditions, or for those with company’s corporate social satisfaction of working to the “I have no interest, in a world we have come to inspect from
when Météo-France issues a disabilities. responsibility policies amount rhythm of nature. of overconsumption, in offering retailers.
vigilance rouge warning for If the nature of the work to little more than ‘greenwash- “It’s also a call to rediscover standardised tools that people What it does promise, how-
fortes chaleurs in the area where means that these measures are ing’ and eventually handed in the conviviality and mutual can find anywhere else,” Mr ever, is tools forged “in shapes
you work. During these periods, likely to be insufficient and staff his notice. support that we’ve often lost to Morthelier said. that have all but disappeared
an employer must make daily are still at risk from the heat “I realised that to be a force machines that allow us to do His axes cost between €50 from French commerce.
evaluations of the risks to each (examples given include roof for good, you had to start from things faster, but without the and €150 and are made to last “We need to support these
staff member. work, insulating lofts, or carry- scratch with no market and no input of others.” at least one lifetime, he says. companies, which are keeping
These should take into ing heavy loads), the employer competitors,” he said. Mr Morthelier insists that his The company has a YouTube alive the traditional tools we
consideration the temperature must stop the work. Having quit his job, he moved company is not backwards- channel, called Theud Bald, abandoned with the arrival of
and its progression during the Time lost due to the heat can with his wife from bustling looking but rather anticipating offering tutorials on how to use consumer society.
day, the nature of the work, be made up in the same way as Lyon to Campagnac-lès-Quercy some of the challenges the the tools, but it does not craft “These are tools which have
especially if it is outside, and happens during storms – with in Dordogne, where he briefly future holds. them in-house. evolved over centuries. We
the age and state of health of extra hours added to work days set up an IT business to keep “I am convinced that my Instead, they are sourced must pass them on to future
the employee. As a result of this when the alert is over. money coming in. He also generation and the next will from local carpenters, as well as generations.”
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Property 37

Paris ‘palace of hygiene’ lets you Property Watch

Department 45:

spend a penny (€2 now) in style

in
Loiret
DEPARTMENTAL CAPITAL: Orléans
MAIN CITIES/TOWNS: Montargis, Pithiviers

Architecture
LOIRET, named after the river, is dominated by Orléans and
its suburbs, where nearly half of the department’s 600,000
population live. It is a thriving, medium-sized city rebuilt after
of France... being heavily bombed in World War Two.
Orléans used to be considered too far from Paris, at
Lavatory By
THEOPHILE
100km away, to be considered a commuter town. This is
no longer the case, with TGV trains doing the journey into
Madeleine LARCHER Montparnasse in little over half an hour. For those who do
not trust the railways, the A10, the main Paris-Bordeaux
autoroute, passes close by Orléans, and the junction with the
FRANCE’S first public lavatory has
A71 heading for Limoges is just south of the city.
re-opened in Paris after more than a
decade of restoration work. The city has an active cultural and sporting life which, in spite
Lavatory Madeleine is a Belle Epoque of the Paris commuters, continues to march to its own drum.
treasure, dating from 1905, and tells a more In recent years, there has been a lot of work to open up the
intimate history of the city and its inhabit- banks of the Loire for walks and recreation.
ants than many of the usual museums and Part of the Paris bread basket – the area of flat, fertile land
monuments. that has supplied the capital with wheat and other cereals
Its significance to French heritage has for centuries – lies to the north of the department. Orléans

Photo: Theophile Larcher

seen it listed as a monument historique and, marks the start of more wooded country to the south, but the
since February, transformed into a tourist land is still flat.
‘must-see’ for a €2 entrance fee. House prices are relatively high, especially around Orléans,
Located in Place de la Madeleine with its but away from the city they become more reasonable. An
imposing church, it is accessed by descend- example is a four-bedroom house near Montargis, which
ing a mosaic stairway and is open between Art Nouveau architectural flourishes in the newly restored Lavatory Madeleine seems to have last been modernised in the 1970s. It has a
10:00 and 18:00.
It was built by French sanitaryware firm 1,000m² garden and is on the market for €108,000.
Porcher as a veritable ‘palace for hygiene’, Similarly, a dilapidated farm and its barn are on sale
says Julien Damon, associate professor at separately near Artenay, in the north of the department, each
Sciences Po and the author of a book on with a €35,000 asking price. Or you could get your hands on a
public toilets. partially converted 60m² village house in Pierrefitte-ès-Bois, in
The doors are made from mahogany and the far south east, for €30,000, including building materials.
embellished with stained glass, while decor-
ative tiling adorns the floor. The cubicles Properties around France
Photo: Art Collection / Alamy Stock Photo
are spacious and fitted with individual
washbasins.
Adding to its splendour is an antique Under €256,000
shoeshine chair, preserved on the site along
Photo: Theophile Larcher

with its golden footrests – a throwback to

a time when using the public conveniences
was as much about freshening up appear-
ances as relieving oneself.
Also playing to the tourist crowd is a
small display of Art Nouveau memorabilia, The original shoeshine chair, above left, and the capital’s last vespasienne
including 19th century Paris postcards. Count Claude-Philibert de Rambuteau, community started using them for hook-
The site is run by a Dutch firm called in the 1830s and 40s. Open on one side ups. In slang of the 1900s, vespasiennes
2theloo, which also manages Covent and ornately decorated on the other, they were referred to as tasses (cups). The term
Garden’s public toilets in London. How- became known as colonnes Rambuteau faire les tasses was used to mean ‘to flirt in
ever, Mr Damon says the British facilities (Rambuteau columns) in his honour. and around vespasiennes’. A semi-detached, stone, three- A charming, detached, three-bed
are more focused on providing a public For his part, and for obvious reasons, Countless writers have conjectured at bed house with great renovation house with garden, outbuildings
service rather than playing a tourism role. Rambuteau much preferred the moniker great length about what happened behind potential in Evriguet, Morbihan. and a second house to renovate.
Where it has borrowed from the English, vespasiennes – a word derived from the vespasiennes. Sébastien Rutés’ recent book La A 100m² house set in a plot of Located in a quite hamlet near
though, is in its name – a ‘lavatory’. 1st century Roman emperor Titus Flavius Vespasienne, for example, set during World 4,240m². Located in the heart of Pionsat, this house has been nicely
Brittany in a quiet village, just one renovated. It has a good garden,
The French have navigated a range of Vespasianus who, legend has it, placed a War Two, makes the vespasienne an allegory hour from the south coast and one lake, barns, orchard and a field, all
terms for public toilets through history, tax on urine collected from public toilets of the political and moral struggles of the era. hour from the north coast. on a plot of nearly a hectare.
from polite allusions such as petit coin to for use in tanning. Their ‘misuse’ was taken very seriously €119,900 Ref: A14833 €255,920 Ref: A11514
words drawing on the idea of ‘comfort’ A shortcoming of the design was lack of by the city’s vice squad. Even though their
(aisance). The latter includes lieu d’aisance, privacy. Manufacturers found a solution by dismantling, post-war, was justified by the
baril d’aisance (the equivalent of a urinal),
or, for women, chalet d’aisance.
introducing a metal sheet on one side, only
to see it colonised by advertisements and,
proliferation of private toilets within flats,
the suppression of homosexual activity also
More than €413,000
More crude terms focus on the verb pisser as people huddled close to read the posters, played a part, said Mr Damon.
(to urinate), such as pissotière or pissoir for privacy was threatened once again. As for women, it took until the late 19th
street urinals. Enter Georges Eugène Haussmann who, century before they had their own dedicat-
Le trône (the throne) is also used – origin- along with his whirlwind building policy ed public toilets, called chalets de nécessité.
ating as shorthand for the rather more long- along Paris’s busiest streets, introduced a Writer Alphonse Allais noted that France
winded phrase là où le roi va seul (where second generation of vespasienne made had become a ‘little Switzerland’ because
the king goes alone). from cast iron and accommodating two of the adopted architectural style used for
Indeed, French monarchs have left their to eight stalls each. These were coloured them. Paris counted around a hundred of
mark, so to speak, on other areas of lava- green to complement the natural world them by 1914.
torial history too, mainly through various and typically only the central part of the These days, the vespasienne is better
edicts outlawing defecation and urination user was screened from public view, with known as a sanisette. There are 435 of these A beautiful 210m² Charentaise A lovely seven-bed maison de
on the streets, which were largely ignored. the head and feet still visible. self-cleaning cubicles all over Paris – on four-bed house that comes with maître with pool and 2,000m²
The so-called City of Light was not Paris boasted some 1,200 of these public busy streets, near monuments, and in its own magnificent wooded park. garden, ideal for families or B&B.
immune from the problem. French writer urinals in the 1930s, at the time city public parks. They were used by 15 million This superb property has been The greenery surrounding this house
Alfred de Musset (1810-57) memorably re- officials were increasing the number of people in 2019, say the city’s mairie. well maintained by its current owners gives the feeling of privacy and
ferred to “this immense sewer called Paris” underground lavatories, such as the one in Combined with public urinals, Paris and is located in the hamlet of isolation, yet it is very close to the
in one of his poems. Place de la Madeleine, as part of a drive to now boasts around 750 public toilets. This Gémozac, a popular village in village with many amenities. Hidden
Charente-Maritime. in the calm of Aire-sur-l’Adour.
A solution – a form of public urinal – was make public conveniences more discreet. gives the capital the claim to the most
introduced on street corners in Paris by the While 567 of these urinals still existed by public toilets per square kilometre in the €413,400 Ref: A15733 €632,000 Ref: A15638
lieutenant general of the police, Antoine de the late 1950s, they slowly became outdated. world, according to the guidebook series Properties available through Leggett Immobilier
Sartine, in around 1770. The last vespasienne is located on boulevard Lonely Planet. Most are free to use, with frenchestateagents.com Tel: 05 53 56 62 54
These were replaced by cylindrical stone- Arago in the 14th arrondissement. the exception of a handful of sites such as
work columns – more than 400 of them Vespasiennes played another, unforeseen, Lavatory Madeleine and the public toilet Next month: We look at Lot
– by the prefect of the Seine department, role in Paris’s social history when the gay on the Champs Elysées.
38 PRACTICAL: Property

LegalNotes
connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Treehouse thrills
Your questions
answered the children and
Matthew Cameron, partner
with Ashtons Legal,
answers a leaves trunk and
branches intact
reader query.

Can we amalgamate house and annexe?

Q: We are retired residents in costs associated with that
France. Our home has a furnished process would very likely be
annexe (converted barn) which disproportionate compared

DIY
we use for visitors. It is still to any anticipated benefit. for the whole thing, but had to
subject to taxe d’habitation so Regarding the question discard that idea because the
is presumably seen as a second about inheritance tax, I am wood is low quality and cannot
home. Can we make it part of the presuming you have gifted be relied on to be structurally
same property? Also, we have the nue-propriété, which is sound or to resist the elements.
gifted our property to our child- a reversionary interest in Nick Inman For the skeleton, at least, I
ren and wonder if the annexe will the property. charts the ups had to buy new timber. I start-
be subject to inheritance tax. On that basis, it is also to ed by planting four 4m-long
be presumed that you have and downs of
sturdy uprights (8cm x 6cm in employed voliges – lightweight en structure, sloping in two
A: The probability is that retained usufruit – a life renovating cross-section) in metal stan- planks of wood normally used directions, and put sheets of
the annexe is treated as an interest – in the property. an old chions placed on the ground. in roofing. corrugated plastic on top.
entirely separate property, I also note that you say you
especially if separate taxe are permanently resident in French These served as the four Voliges can be as thin as 12mm These were fixed with screws
farmhouse corners of the treehouse and (likely to warp and split) or as and, as extra security, some
d’habitation bills have been the property.
would channel the weight thick as 25mm (heavy to lug lengths of wire drilled into the
issued in the past for it. If all of this is correct, it is
above into the earth without up ladders and hold in place). wood below.
If this is the case, it will probably the case that the
RURAL France is full of big bothering the tree. Those of 18mm–20mm hit the This was the only part of the
have a separate tax refer- annexe would pass to your
old trees. Unfortunately, our I used the same wood to Goldilocks spot. treehouse I was unsatisfied
ence and you should submit children after you die with-
garden has only one – a cen- run a 2m² frame around the I nailed the lower and upper with. I must have chosen the
a separate declaration out any further exposure to
tennial lime tree – and it was trunk at the base of the crown ones in place, cutting holes wrong kind of plastic because
when filling in the new inheritance tax.
Biens immobiliers form. However, I have made not suitable for the project I to create a platform. All these with a jigsaw to allow the over time it became brittle and
It would not be a straight- several assumptions about had in mind. members were held together branches through, and then set broken in the wind and rain.
forward exercise to change your circumstances and the I wanted to build a bespoke with hefty carriage bolts and about making some windows. Access would be required by
the status so that the two ownership of the land. It is treehouse for my son and his reinforced by pieces of timber For the main window, I the new owners. I made a trap-
properties are treated as important to seek detailed friends to play in. The only across the inner angles. reused a door from a self- door out of scraps of wood and
one. This would, in fact, specialist advice tailored to other contender was a walnut All exposed wood was treated assembly glass bookcase, fitted it with hinges and a rope
require the granting of full your circumstances to fully tree of moderate size and that, to several coats of non-toxic placed horizontally, but I leading to a counterweight, so
planning permission. understand the position. I decided, would have to do. wood preserver. also had fun cutting smaller it was easy for a child to push
If the aim of amalgamat- As for how the annexe I set myself two conditions. Next, the floor. I had some openings to the size and shapes open. The distance from the
ing the house and annexe should be treated for taxe I did not want to damage the lengths of plank lying around, I pleased. I glazed them with ground to the trapdoor was not
is mainly to avoid or reduce d’habitation purposes, the tree in any way, so I would which I sawed up and fitted perspex held firm with staples. great, and it was easy to fashion
local taxation, it is likely best option is to speak to have to design a structure to around the tree to make a I was not sure how to roof my a short ladder for tiny souls to
that this will not work. The the mairie. go around its trunk and limbs floor solid enough to take the treehouse. I could have made scramble up.
without touching them. weight of two or three children a decent charpente (timber The last job was to give this
Tel: +44 (0)113 393 1930  www.heslop-platt.co.uk My other self-imposed jumping up and down. These roof truss) and covered it with new residence a name. On the
contact@heslop-platt.co.uk constraint was to keep the cost were screwed into place while slates or tiles, but I was worried outside, I fixed a plaque read-
down by using recycled wood leaving a hole for a trapdoor. these might slip off as the tree ing: ‘The Nuthouse.’
as much as possible. I consid- The walls did not need to be swayed in the wind. n Next month:
ered using dismantled pallets made with heavy planks so I Instead, I improvised a wood- making mosquito screens

Who can post ‘no parking’ sign on property?

Homeowners advised to empty their septic
Q: What are the rules around
posting signs on a garage door
prohibiting parking when the
details of how the appli-
cation can be opposed.
Common examples include
tank before house sale to pass inspections
space is not used for a vehicle? spaces reserved so a nurse CONFUSION is still rife over poses no risk to health or the aware that the internet and Pages
Our neighbour has one on his can visit a patient. whether a septic tank must be environment. jaunes will probably direct you
gate but the space behind is Check whether this has emptied when a property is put If your tank is at the 30% to to bigger companies with tankers
a patio garden. Another with been completed at your up for sale. 50% solids level, or above, the designed for industrial use and
a similar sign does not have a mairie. If not, you can ignore The answer usually depends certificate will not be issued. It not suitable for narrow lanes in
Photo: KaliAntye_shutterstock

vehicle. The space is too small the ‘no parking’ signs with- on when the septic tank was last makes sense, then, for the seller rural areas.
and is instead used for storage. out risk of legal action -- as pumped out. to empty the tank before the However, there has been a
long as you do not park in In France, septic tanks are technician’s visit. recent increase in qualified
A: In general, rules around front of a gate. This is prohib- standard volumes depending on The days when any cheerful operators in some areas, with
street parking are more ited by the Code de la route, the number of people who live farmer with a ‘honey sucker’ more local contacts.
relaxed in France than in and includes your own gate. in the house of a given size. This trailer attached to their tractor The cost is usually between
countries such as the UK. Parking here can incur a means they fill up with solids at It is recommended that tanks would do the rounds of the €150 and €250.
In France, you can ‘privat- fine of €35. If you persist a predictable rate. are emptied when solids village septic tanks ended with If the diagnostic assainisse-
ise’ public space, such as a after being warned by a law The law specifies that they must reach 30% to 50% of volume a wave of environmental rules ment shows the property does
parking space in a road, if enforcement officer, the ve- be emptied when solids reach tanks in an area and stores their introduced in 2011. not meet standards – some old
certain rules are followed. hicle could be towed away. 50% of the volume of the tank. records, including digital photos Operators have to be licensed farmhouses still have a pipe in
This needs authorisation So, where your neighbour However, it is recommended of the installation. by the prefecture and use specific the long grass system – you will
from the mairie which must has a gate large enough for that tanks are emptied before this Think of them as the septic equipment – not only for the be given a list of work that needs
display a public notice on a car and an entrance to the – when solids reach between 30% tank police force. suction but to store and treat the to be done.
the official noticeboard, as street, you could be fined and 50%, or every four years. Spanc technicians turn up contents for a month afterwards, This should be completed
well as at the earmarked if you park in front, even if As so few people actually look every 10 years to check your tank before it can be classified as within the year and must be done
site, for seven days, giving there is no garage behind. into their tanks to check, many has been emptied – and you are fertiliser and spread on fields. at your own expense, even after
communes have by-laws that charged, usually around €50, for Many operators are still farmers the sale.
Tel: 05 61 57 90 86  brightavocats.com state tanks must be emptied the privilege. but finding one local to you can However, as buyers often get
every 10 years. They can also provide a diag- be difficult. grants for assainissement work,
contact@brightavocats.com A local government body called nostic assainissement – one of the Visiting your local Spanc office it is common for an agreement
If you have a legal query send it to news@connexionfrance.com Service Public d’Assainissement documents a seller must give to is the best bet. to be reached for them to do it.
We select questions for answer every edition Non Collectif, better known as the buyer of their property – and The mairie will provide address Adjustments can be made to the
le Spanc, oversees all the septic a certificate stating the system details if you are not sure. Be price of the property as a result.
 The Connexion July 2023 connexionfrance.com Property 39

Naval officer’s gift to Asian wife restored to its oriental glory

WHEN Vicki Jeynes, 64, first saw
Quirky homes in France The distinctive exterior of the oriental-inspired
La Pagode, it was love at first sight.
property. Left
Left:: The Asian-styled terrace and, right,
The unusual home caught her atten-
tion when she began a property search
A seaside ‘pagoda’ the 180-degree sea view and Vicki, inset
in the south of France in 2018.
“I’d always loved France, so when
the Brexit vote came through in 2016,
I decided to make my dream of living
here become reality,” she says.
When her UK house sold in October
2018, former freelance HR consultant
Vicki rented an apartment in La
Seyne-sur-Mer in the Var while she
looked for somewhere to buy.
“I’d owned a holiday apartment in La
Seyne since 2010, but stopped coming
four years later when my mum was

Photos: Vicki Jeynes

diagnosed with Alzheimer’s,” she says.
“I sold the flat after her death in
2015. When I came back for a holiday
in 2017, however, I decided to make it
my permanent home.” covered that it was built by a French couple, who hadn’t been there for years, sure I’m living where I’m meant to be.” door designs, the rest of the property’s
It was early into her stay that Vicki naval officer in 1929. That’s why it’s and it had been on the market for three- In the almost four years since she interior is fairly standard.
saw La Pagode while out walking with located on the seafront, opposite the and-a-half years. It was filthy inside and bought the house in July 2019, Vicki However, this works well for Vicki.
a friend. Noticing that it had a ‘for naval base in Toulon. needed a lot of work,” she says. has transformed the interior. However, “It’s nice and light and bright now,”
sale’ sign, she later looked it up. “The officer had previously been However, having set her sights on as the property is unique and in a she says. “And the French windows
Her first inquiries, however, suggest- posted to somewhere in Asia, perhaps the property, Vicki was unfazed: protected area, nothing has come easy. overlooking the sea are a real feature.”
ed it was not meant to be: “It was way Indonesia,” says Vicki. “He married “Everything had to be redone, but in “The windows at the front have an The downstairs apartment has also
over budget, so I tried to forget it.” an Indonesian lady. When he brought my mind I could see how I wanted it unusual design, which is replicated on been renovated.
She spent the next year looking at her back here, he had La Pagode built to be. I knew I could bring it back to the doors inside. “I had to have that completely gutted
and dismissing various properties in with an oriental-style roof to make her its former glory.” “All the windows are arched and at and put back together again,” she says.
the area but La Pagode remained in feel more at home.” Unfortunately, the While the house plus renovations the front there are glass panels with Vicki, who is now self-employed
her mind. “I kept walking past it – it inside of the property did not match came over budget, Vicki has no slats,” she explains. organising gîte changeovers, lives on
was on the way to the shops, the beach its smart and unusual exterior. regrets. “My original budget was “The windows needed to be replaced, the upper floor and has tenants in the
and seafront restaurants – and I kept “The building was divided into two €350,000 and I would have been a but in order to do so, I had to have downstairs apartment, which helps to
thinking ‘I wonder’.” apartments and the downstairs one cash buyer with no mortgage. With them custom-made. supplement her income.
Finally, after speaking to her finan- was in a poor state of repair,” says the cost of the house, plus renovations, “I was also restricted with regards While the renovation has been com-
cial adviser, Vicki cashed in an invest- Vicki, adding that it had no natural I’ve paid in excess of double that, and to the colours I used for the shutters, plicated, Vicki has no regrets.
ment and had the money to buy it. light. The upper floor was better, but now have a small mortgage as well. because the property is protected. I “The best part is the sea,” she says. “I
She also found out how it came to be had fallen into disrepair. “It’s not what I’d planned for my needed permission to alter the exter- have a 180-degree view of it and that’s
built with such an oriental look. “I dis- “The house had belonged to an elderly retirement but at least I am absolutely ior.” Despite the unusual window and just wonderful – like living on a boat.”

Couple face €140,000 claim Drought damage reform could soon make life easier
from buyer over 10-year HOMEOWNERS should have more
chance of making successful claims for
tered, and be held personally responsible,
with possible fines, if their assessment is
guarantee on self-built home this year, providing new legislation comes
drought damage to their property later proved wrong.
Insurance firms had fought for a distinc-
into force as planned. tion to be made between ‘cosmetic’ cracks
A BRITISH couple have found whom he and the court appoint- Reforms to existing rules will see the and those causing structural damage, but
themselves in a legal quagmire ed accepted the estimates with- sum paid by homeowners into the ‘natural Ms Marsaud said this has been rejected.
after the buyer of their self- out looking at the house to see catastrophe’ pot – currently around €8 a She added that the changes being made
built home took them to court if the work is needed. year – rise to approximately €10, although by Météo-France to how they measure the
citing a 10-year building guar- “Builders will give estimates the figure will vary from policy to policy. impact of drought were at least as import-
antee and claiming €140,000. when asked to do so, whether At the same time, Météo-France is chang- ant as the legal process.
Photo: AUMF

James and Diane Reeves have the work is needed or not. ing its reporting standards to give a more “In order to get a natural catastrophe
lived in France for 30 years “Our opinion is that any work precise description of drought conditions. declaration, your mayor must ask the pre-
after retiring early and settling we might be liable for is very This is a key factor in deciding if a ‘natural fecture, and the prefecture then refers the
Cracks are visible in a house in Sarthe request to a national committee,” she said.
near Bergerac in Dordogne. minor, whereas he [the buyer] catastrophe’ can be declared in communes,
They built a house to live in, seems to be going for a near which opens the door for claims. by Lorraine Cata Sécheresse, pointed to “It uses data from Météo-France, and
but decided to sell it after eight- complete rebuild.” Homeowners can make insurance claims six proposed law changes and reports Météo-France has recognised that its
and-a-half years for €360,000, The couple have a lawyer to only after a decree declaring a catastrophe since a reform was first proposed in 2020 standards, of looking at 8km squares,
and moved to southern Brittany fight their case but proceedings naturelle (natural disaster) in their area has by Senator Nicole Bonnefoy. satellite measurements and ground stations
instead to be nearer the sea. have already taken three years. been issued. This was passed by the Senate but not which can be a long way away, are not
In France, all builders are “It is a constant worry,” said Sandra Marsaud, MP for the govern- considered by MPs. precise enough. They are now moving to
obliged to give a warranty Mr Reeves. ment’s Renaissance party who represents “Why do we need a new report?” they 1.5km squares.”
(garantie décennale) that any “Even if Périgueux court finds Charente, co-wrote a report on the subject asked. “Even so, we are prepared to work Rainfall figures over one drought month
work done will be fully func- against us, we will appeal.” with members of the Green party, but did quickly with Mr Ledoux if he thinks he and the two months preceding it are
tioning for 10 years after it In the meantime, the buyer not vote for their subsequent bill. It passed can do better than all the people who have averaged, and then compared to the last
has been completed. has put a freeze on any money in a nearly empty chamber in April. worked on the subject before him.” 50 years to see if the drought enters the
“When we were building, that might come to the couple “The Green’s proposal is too badly written Key features of the ordinance, which will ‘natural catastrophe’ framework.
we looked into the possibility if they sell their Brittany prop- and contains too many contradictions, and be included in the Ledoux report, are strict- Ms Marsaud said that at least 10 million
of getting insurance cover for erty – even though there has has now entered a parliamentary shuffle er regulation of insurance assessors, the houses in France are potentially at risk
the 10-year warranty, but our been no decision on the case from which it will probably not emerge,” removal of a distinction between cosmetic from drought-related cracks.
insurance company said they in Dordogne. Ms Marsaud told The Connexion. and structural damage, and the reform of “It is not just modern houses,” she said.
could not do it, and we let it “None of our French or “However, a month before, the govern- the natural catastrophe funding pot. “There have been some cases in isolated
drop,” said Mr Reeves, 70. British friends knew of the 10- ment published an ordinance, which could Cracks to properties are usually caused regions of the Sarthe, for example, where
“After the sale, we were sur- year guarantee applying if you be converted into law by parliament in the when the clay soil that houses are built on old houses, with thick stone walls, have
prised to hear from the buyer build your own house, or even summer. The decrees bringing it into force shrinks during droughts, and then swells been damaged too.”
about a small leak over the if you simply build a terrace should follow soon after.” when it rains. Ms Marsaud insisted there was cross-
terrace, and we gave him some yourself,” said Mr Reeves. Shortly after this, Prime Minister At the moment, many victims end up party support for improvements to
advice. He then came back with “We want to tell our story so Elisabeth Borne appointed another MP, dissatisfied with the insurance assessor’s existing legislation.
all sorts of estimates for work that other people do not face Vincent Ledoux, to write a further report report, and have to hire their own experts “It is something that the administration
totalling €140,000, which he the same trouble we have.” on the subject. to support their claim before challenging has been working on for years, across all
said we were liable for. If household insurers will not This dismayed groups campaigning for the insurance company. three ministries concerned – environment,
“What has shocked us the cover the 10-year guarantee, you drought insurance reforms, who said vital Under the new ordinance, assessors will finance and interior – so I am confident we
most is that so-called ‘experts’ can obtain it through brokers. time was being lost. Six organisations, led have to receive formal training, be regis- will soon see tangible improvements.”
 The Back Page connexionfrance.com The Connexion July 2023

Alex and Emma Watson’s ‘love letter to Burgundy’

Alex Watson explains how Chablis grand cru grapes.
What do you get a person who “I was attracted to the passion the
he and his actress sister has everything? A vineyard! people display for their craft there,
Emma are following in their French vineyards are hot property the pride they take in what they do.
among the Hollywood jet set. “There is so much care and attention
father’s footsteps as they In 2021, George and Amal Clooney to detail over centuries of tradition
produce gin in Chablis. bought the Domaine du Canadel and perfecting the way they grow the
estate in Provence, a short drive from
Interview by Martin Greenacre George Lucas’s Château Margüi, and
grapes, it seemed such a shame that
that would be the end of the journey.”
THESE days it is easier to list the Château Miraval, bought in 2008 by The two siblings are co-founders,
celebrities who haven’t launched Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. with Mr Watson more focused on the
their own brand of alcohol. Keira Knightley and musician hus- day-to-day running of the business
From Danny DeVito’s limoncello band James Righton, meanwhile, own and brand, he said.
to Snoop Dogg’s California wine, it is a vineyard in Mazan (Vaucluse). “Ems has been amazing from a creat-
lucrative business... but for actress and Perhaps the best-known example ive perspective, in terms of directing
activist Emma Watson and brother is Kylie Minogue, who launched a the video shoot we did, helping with
Alex, it is deeply personal. range of French wines in 2020. the brand’s look and feel, and champ-

Photo: Renais
They recently launched Renais, a gin Cameron Diaz, John Legend, Jay Z ioning our sustainability agenda.”
made using grape skins from Burgundy and Jon Bon Jovi have also all collab- Emma Watson said: “Renais is a
vineyards, “It is a love letter to Chablis orated with French winemakers. family project – not only does the
Emma and Alex Watson grew up around their father’s vineyards
and Burgundy from our family,” Mr Chablis region evoke very special
Watson told The Connexion during a his first vineyard. try. What does a drink say about the into the limelight and quite quickly memories of growing up, I’ve loved
video call from his home in Oxford. He has since acquired additional people who made it? What are their decided it wasn’t for me,” he said. having the opportunity to create
Both he and his sister were born in parcels and spent the last 30 years rituals and traditions? I couldn’t think Instead, he went to university, and something with my brother Alex.
Paris, where their father was posted producing Chablis and, more recently, of a better expression of that than the then as a fresh graduate wondering I’m particularly proud of upcycling
to work as a barrister in the 1980s. Irancy red wine at Domaine Watson. people of Burgundy.” what to do with his life, returned grapes from vineyards (including
“My godfather – his best friend – He was even appointed one of the For his sister, those visits are also a to work on the vineyards for the my dad’s) to reduce waste and create
was also working as a barrister in Piliers Chablisiens – a small group of form of escapism, he said. “My dad summer. something new.”
Paris, but was from a village called winegrowers tasked with promoting is the famous one in Burgundy. Me Having worked in bars and restaur- As well as re-using grape skins, the
Chablis,” Mr Watson said. Chablis – and is the group’s ambassa- and Ems have literally been walking ants as a teenager, this was the push gin is delivered in packaging made
“My dad was already obsessed with dor to the UK. down the street in Chablis and have he needed to turn his passion into a from mushrooms and is therefore bio-
wine, but I think he fell even more Although the family returned to had someone stop us and ask to take career. He has since spent a decade degradable. The company also offsets
in love with it and would spend his the UK when Alex and Emma were a picture of them with my dad.” working in the drinks industry, most its carbon footprint by supporting
weekends in Chablis, fly-fishing and children, they continued to visit There were, of course, those who recently at multinational Diageo. wind farm initiatives in India, mean-
drinking wine. After five or six years, Chablis two or three times a year, expected him to follow in his older Launching Renais, then, was both ing the product is carbon-neutral.
he was able to persuade the locals he including for La Saint Vincent, the sister’s footsteps. He did a bit of mod- a dream come true and a nod to The gin is available online through-
was a force for good and formed a annual celebration of the patron saint elling as a teenager, and if you look his family’s story. The base alcohol out the EU, but due to greater than
special connection with the place.” It of winemakers. closely during the fifth Harry Potter is made with by-products from the expected demand from France, Mr
was with the help of locals that Chris “It’s one of those things that has film, you will see him eating cereal wine-making industry in Burgundy. Watson said they are looking at ways
Watson was able to obtain and plant always drawn me to the drinks indus- in the Great Hall. “I had a brief foray Part of its flavour comes from pressed to make it more widely available.

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