"Invisible" Machine Appliqué

Rebecca Kemp Brent

Beautiful needle-turn appliqué, with its finished edges and invisible hand stitching, is the gold standard
for appliqué among needleworkers. You can achieve a similar result with a machine stitch that's
designed to disappear into the fabrics, and modern notions make the preparation and completion steps
simple and less time consuming.

Supplies

1. Stabilizers: You'll use two different kinds of stabilizing material. These are available from machine-
embroidery suppliers and some quilting and stitchery shops.

a. Fiber-based partial wash-away stabilizer (Quilters Select Print & Piece): This resembles a sheet
of cotton rag paper. It's made from fibrous material held together with a water-soluble binding material.
You can print or draw on it, cut it, and use it to back appliqué shapes as you finish the edges. After
assembly, it dissolves into a soft, undetectable layer of loose fiber between the appliqué and
background fabrics.

b. Paper-backed water-soluble stabilizer (Floriani Wet N Gone Tacky): These 8 1/2" x 11" sheets
of water-soluble mesh stabilizer have an adhesive backing covered by a paper protective sheet. They run
through your printer just like paper. Remove the paper backing, stick the pattern to your background at
the desired placement, and position and stitch your appliqués right through the stabilizer. Afterward it
washes away, leaving no marks on your fabric.

2. Fabric: Start with 100% cotton woven fabric, like quilting cotton. It's easy to use and great for
learning. Later you can experiment with any other washable fabrics.

3. Thread: All-Purpose and Fine threads are great (I use Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP threads). Choose a
color that blends into your background fabric; that may sound crazy, but most of the stitching will be on
the background. Invisible machine threads are another fine choice, as they blend into almost any color
fabric. Do stitch a sample first, and change to a different thread color if you prefer.

4. Glue (Quilter's Select Fabric Glue Stick): Choose a water-soluble glue that will wash away with the
stabilizers.

5. Bias Pressing Bars

Preparing the Appliqués – Shapes

1. Print or trace the appliqué shapes onto the stabilizer. Reverse the shape if it is not symmetric, or flip it
over for use. Cut out each shape on the line, keeping your cuts smooth and accurate.

2. Use a little glue to attach the appliqué shape to the wrong side of the appliqué fabric. It may be
helpful to position the shape on the bias or slightly off the straight grain.
3. Cut out the shape, leaving a generous 1/8" seam allowance. It's okay to judge the seam allowance by
eye, and minor irregularities won't be a problem. If your fabric is heavy or ravels, leave 1/4" seam
allowance.

4. Turn the appliqué shape wrong side up and apply a little glue to the seam allowance, working with
one section at a time. Use a cuticle stick as an aid when your fingers seem too big. Lightly press the
turned edges with a warm iron to set the glue. Apply a little additional glue at corners where the seam
allowances overlap. If your appliqué shape's edges will lie under a second piece of appliqué, do not
press the seam allowances to the wrong side; leave them extended away from the stabilizer.

5. Apply basting glue to the seam allowances on the wrong side of the appliqué pieces and attach them
to your background fabric and stabilizer.

Preparing the Appliqués – Lines

1. Cut strips of appliqué fabric on the bias. Each should be twice the finished width of the desired line of
appliqué, plus 1/2" seam allowance. For lines that finish 1/4" wide, that equals 1" cut strips.

2. If necessary, sew lengths of bias together to create a long strip, pressing the seam allowances open.
Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and sew. For accuracy on narrow strips,
gauge the seam location by running your foot or other guide along the folded edge of the strip, adjusting
the needle position to yield the desired strip width.

3. Trim the seam allowances to about 1/16" – very narrow. Slip the correctly sized pressing bar into the
tube and roll the seam to the center of one bar surface. Press the tube, slipping the bar along as you
work through the length of the tube. Keep the seam allowances centered on the wrong side of the tube.
You can press the seam allowances open if you choose, but it's not necessary.

4. Apply glue to the prepared bias tube along the seam allowances. Position the tube on the background
fabric ready for stitching. It may be necessary to work in sections in order to accommodate under- and
overlapping appliqués.

Stitching the Appliqués

1. Set your machine for an appliqué stitch. This stitch is a series of about four forward-motion straight
stitches, followed by a single narrow zigzag stitch to one side. The straight stitches should enter only the
background fabric, lying immediately beside the appliqué's pressed edge, while the zigzag catches just a
couple of threads in the appliqué fabric. Stitch a test sample or two to determine which length and
width settings work best for your fabrics and project.

If your machine doesn't have an appliqué stitch, use narrow zigzag stitch with a longer than normal
stitch length. Position the stitch so that only one swing of the zigzag enters the appliqué shape. A blind-
hem stitch with a short stitch length is another possibility.

2. Working from background to foreground (for example, from the outer petals of a flower to its center),
stitch the appliqués to the background.

3. Following the manufacturer's instructions, soak or wash the project to remove the stabilizers. Be sure
the stabilizers and glue are out of the fabric before using detergent in the wash water.
It’s Sew Easy Gingham Circle Skirt Variation – Gretchen Hirsch

This vintage-inspired skirt has a lovely sash threaded through it. The trick is large buttonholes!
Make the skirt in the larger gingham, and the sash and bow in smaller gingham.

Bodice pattern used: Charm Patterns Night and Day Dress

1. Sew circle skirt: Sew seams in circle skirt, leaving a 7-5/8” opening on left side seam for
zipper.

2. Cut bias strips for sash and bow: Cut 12.5” wide bias strips all the way across your small
gingham yardage, getting the longest strip possible in one piece. You will need two roughly
45” long strips (you can piece strips together if needed).

3. Sew the sash: fold one bias strip in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the
long open edge using a ¼” seam allowance. Press seam allowances open over a seam roll
and turn strip right side out. Press sash flat.

4. Sew the bow: fold the second bias strip in half lengthwise right sides together, and cut the
ends on an angle. Stitch along all three open sides, using a ¼” seam allowance, and leaving
a 6” opening to turn the bow right side out. Turn right side out and close the opening with
hand stitching. Press bow flat.

5. Test sash placement on skirt: Lay circle skirt out on a flat surface, so entire front of skirt is
flat and spread out. Use sash to mock up placement by laying sash on skirt, extending from
about 8” above right hemline and continuing in a sharp curve to upper left hip (this refers
to right and left as though you are wearing the skirt). Pin sash in place and then try skirt on
yourself or a dress form to check that you are happy with the sash placement. Adjust as
needed and place the skirt flat on your table top again.

6. Mark buttonholes: Make marks for pairs of 2” long buttonholes about every 4-5” along
sash placement except for the first and last buttonholes (at hip and hem); these should be
single buttonholes, not pairs.

7. Sew buttonholes: use a manual buttonhole setting to make your buttonholes (most
automatic buttonholes are too short).

8. Thread the sash through the buttonholes, with the ends on the inside of the skirt.Secure th
ends with topstitching at the first and last buttonholes and trim as needed.

9. Tie the bow piece into a bow and arrange as desired. Hand stitch to the upper left hip of
the skirt.
 It’s Sew Easy

Stylish Garden Apron with Zippered Pocket

Presented by: Joanne Banko

www.letsgosew.com

Let’s stay in touch! I’d love to help you make the most of your sewing machine!

CLICK HERE to add your name to the letsgosew.com email list and receive timely tips, sewing
news, free tutorials, and special updates. You’ll be the first to know about new blog posts and
detailed previews of the online It’s Sew Easy TV show.

Be on the best dressed list, even when you’re working in the garden! If you’re an avid gardener, you’ll enjoy this
stylish garden apron. It’s made from water repellent ripstop nylon and features a decorative pocket secured with
a zipper. This pocket style is perfect for items you want to keep safe & secure such as keys or your phone. Are
you ready? Let’s go sew!

Materials and supplies featured in this show:

• Brother XP1 Luminaire Sewing & Embroidery machine
• Brother SA208 Narrow Zipper foot, or an adjustable zipper foot.
• Pattern tracing cloth for creating a permanent pattern for the apron.
Note: You can choose to draw measurements directly on your fabric if you like. I prefer to make patterns
from tracing cloth so I can easily make another in the future.

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 • Basic sewing notions including good quality polyester thread to match fabric, fine sharp pins, wash away
fabric glue or glue stick for temporarily securing ribbon, seam sealant for finishing ends of ribbon, Size 10
or 12 Microtex needle, and a color matched 7-inch all-purpose polyester coil zipper.
• Fabric for main apron piece:
o One piece of Ripstop Nylon fabric measuring 36-inches long X 24-inches wide.

Options and ideas: I purchased 5/8 yard of 60-inch wide Ripstop Nylon for this project. While this
fabric may not be typical for an apron, I picked this fabric for its ability to resist water and stains. It
comes in bright, fun colors and is very durable. Left over fabric of this type is ideal for making
drawstring bags or totes to hold garden tools and supplies. Use quilt weight cotton as an alternative
fabric if you wish. If you make items for re-sale at craft shows, etc., this apron could be stitched quickly
and economically, especially if you choose standard cotton fabric. Consider using some of the many
beautiful novelty prints available in the quilting cotton section of the fabric store. Be sure to choose an
allover print without nap or direction issues, otherwise your folded pocket will end up upside down. If
you’re using 44”/45” wide fabric you can shave the width down a little bit, use half of the width of a
one-yard piece of fabric, and make two aprons from one yard. Skip the decorative stitching on the
ribbon if you want to save a little time.
• Ribbon for apron:
o Two pieces of grosgrain ribbon measuring 7/8-inch wide X 9-inches long for trimming zipper.
Tip: I like to use liquid stabilizer to stiffen the ribbon before stitching. CLICK HERE to download a free
tip sheet on this type of stabilizer from www.letsgosew.com.
o One piece of grosgrain ribbon measuring 7/8-inch wide X 72-inches long for waistband and ties.
o One piece of satin or grosgrain ribbon measuring ¼-inch wide X 4-inches long for zipper pull.

Note: This apron style was previously featured on the Brother Stitching Sewcial blog. You’ll find similar
instructions with additional photos in the blog post.

Steps for making the apron:

Sew a decorative stitch down the center of each 9-inch piece of stabilized ribbon. If you have the Brother Luminaire
machine, consider using the projection feature to view the decorative stitch on the ribbon and precisely stitch
the pattern in the center of the ribbon. In addition, the guideline marker grid can help you keep the ribbon
straight while stitching.

Remove all stabilizer residue and press ribbons flat. Use wash-away fabric glue to secure decorative ribbons along
each side of zipper tape. Next, fold under each short end and stitch close to the zipper teeth on each side of the
zipper. Wash out glue and let zipper dry. Set ribbons aside temporarily.

Select apron piece and fold right sides together so folded piece measures 18-inches long and 24-inches wide.
Sew top edge using a ½-inch seam allowance, leaving a 5-inch opening along the top for turning right sides out.
Tip: Sewing the top seam as shown in the image below makes it easy to fold and press the opening closed

when finishing the apron at the top. Next, sew each of the 18-inch sides using a ½-inch seam allowance.
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Turn piece right side out and press. Tip: Ripstop Nylon is heat sensitive. Iron temperatures vary greatly. Use a
low temperature and test on a remnant of fabric before pressing apron. Use a press cloth if necessary.

It’s time to form the center zippered pocket and the two side pockets. Begin by measuring 6-inches up from the
bottom fold, then turn and press up a 6-inch deep pocket along the measured line.

Note that one side of the decorative zipper piece gets sewn to
the top pocket edge and the other gets sewn to the apron
itself. Now, layer decorative zipper piece at top edge of
pocket, with right side of zipper facing up, and the zipper teeth
lined up with the foldline at the top edge. Pin close to fold,
pinning ribbon to pocket layer, without pinning through to
apron. Unfold pocket and use a zipper foot to stitch close to
pinned edge of zipper teeth, then continue stitching around
the ribbon in a box formation, stitching short ends and long
edge of ribbon.

Fold pocket back up into place. Stitch the other piece of ribbon
to the body of the apron, stitching close to the zipper teeth
and then stitching around the ribbon as you did before.

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Mark and then sew lines for the side pockets to the right and left
of the zippered pocket. Switch to standard sewing foot. Finish
these pockets by topstitching close to the two loose, outside edges
of the apron pockets.

Center long piece of grosgrain ribbon along the top, waistline

edge. Stitch ribbon to waistline, closing the opening in the process.
String narrow ribbon through the zipper pull and knot. Trim ends
of each ribbon piece at an angle and treat with seam sealant to
keep from fraying.

You are finished! Enjoy gardening in your new, fashionable apron!

Visit letsgosew.com for updates, more project instructions, and It’s Sew Easy TV series 1900 BONUS FILES.

Happy Sewing!

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 It’s Sew Easy

Scarf Tips and Techniques

Presented by: Joanne Banko

www.letsgosew.com

Enhance your wardrobe with a collection of beautiful scarves! Summer, winter, spring, or fall,
a scarf is the perfect accessory. Are you ready? Let’s go sew!

Scarves from this episode include:

• Summer Scarf – Colorful sheer chiffon with ruffle trim and rolled hem finish on the
serger.
• Winter Scarf – Fleece scarf trimmed with geometric accent applied with braiding foot.
• Spring Scarf – Lace infinity scarf with serge finished edges.
• Fall Scarf – Large scarf/wrap with narrow yarn applied with couching attachment.
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 Ten Tips for adding Wardrobe Pizazz with Scarves and Wraps

1. Sew a sheer scarf in a bright “tropical” color for warm weather destinations.
• This is one of my favorite travel tips. When I’m transitioning from dark drab
weather to a sunny, warm climate I always take along a brightly colored scarf.
Then, when I shed my coat I have an accent piece that fits with my new scenery
and puts me in the mood for some warm weather fun!

2. Consider making your scarf long enough to double as a shawl.

• I like a length of approximately 70-inches for a rectangular scarf. This length allows
you to wrap the scarf in a variety of ways or simply drape it over your shoulders
to use as a shawl.

3. When sewing sheer chiffon opt for a straight stitch foot and matching throat plate
whenever possible.
• Stitching with a straight stitch foot gives you much better control with soft and
sheer fabric. The small hole in the foot keeps the fabric from being pushed down
into the wide zig zag opening on standard throat plates. If you have the option of
using a straight stitch throat plate along with this foot, you’ll achieve the best
results possible on fine fabrics. Be sure to select a center needle straight stitch or
your needle will hit the foot and break when you begin to sew.

4. Use strips of water-soluble stabilizer to beef up the edge of sheer fabrics and make them
easier to sew on the serger.
• Water-soluble fibrous mesh stabilizer looks a little like fabric, but it completely
dissolves in water. Cut narrow strips and layer them with tricky fabrics when you
have trouble producing a neat rolled hem finish. Simply serge through the layers,
trimming a slight amount of fabric and stabilizer as you go. The stabilizer beefs up
the fabric and helps you form a neat and even narrow hem on fine fabric. Note that
fabric needs to be thoroughly washable to use this technique. Most stabilizers of
this type require fairly warm water to dissolve. Check manufacturer’s directions for
specifics.

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5. Add couched trim to add surface texture and a splash of color to a ready-made scarf.
• For the scarf featured on this show, I used the Brother MuVit™ foot and the
Couching Accessory to apply fine yarn to a ready-made* pashmina style scarf
measuring 27” wide by 80” long. Note that the foot and couching accessory is
included with some machines and available as an option for others. Visit
letsgosew.com for a free Creative Couching Tip Sheet . Scarf Resource: Check
local shops for good quality scarves in a similar size. If you can’t find one locally
consider shopping online. I purchased the blue MaaMgic brand scarf featured on
the show on Amazon.

6. Serge the edge of soft lace for and easy and almost invisible finish.
• For this style scarf, pick a fabric that’s soft, light, and doesn’t ravel easily. Then,
select thread that closely matches your fabric and serge finish the edges so the
stitch shows on the outside. With lacy fabric the stitch will almost disappear into
the fabric. Tip: If you can’t find cones of serger thread to match, purchase large
spools of good quality polyester thread to use in its place. You’ll find my detailed
instructions for making this Serger Style Lace Infinity Scarf on the Brother Stitching
Sewcial blog.

7. Add length to a scarf with a ruffle and you can make a scarf with less fabric yardage.
• You’ll find my detailed instructions for making this Sheer Scarf with Gathered
Ruffles on the Brother Stitching Sewcial blog.

8. Use an enclosed seam so your scarf looks pretty on each side.

• French seams are ideal for sheer fabrics since they look neat and finished on both
right and wrong sides of the fabric. Visit letsgosew.com for more seam and seam
finishing tips and techniques.

9. Use a braiding foot to apply trims up to ¼-inch wide.

• The braiding foot featured on this show is the Brother SA141 Braiding foot. The
adjustable slot on this foot allows for different thicknesses of cords, yarn, and
ribbon.

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10. Two yards of fabric makes a scarf for you and one for a friend too!
• Infinity scarves like the one seen on this show are made from a long loop of fabric.
Scarf instructions referenced in tip #6 call for two strips of fabric measuring 14” to
15” wide X 70” long. Cut fabric pieces with length running along the selvedge edge,
taking care to trim away the selvedges. Two yards of fabric 60-inches wide or
slightly wider will allow you to make two scarves, See example below:

If you’re a fan of scarf and wrap accessories you may be interested in projects featured in
my book titled Wrapped in Embroidery.

Visit letsgosew.com for updates, more project instructions, and It’s Sew Easy TV series
1900 BONUS FILES.

Happy Sewing!

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EmbroideryGarden.com Social media links: Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Facebook Group

Couched Bird Pillow

Use a built-in couching design on the Brother Sews Luminaire to embellish this ‘in the
hoop’ small pillow with envelope style back.

READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING

All pieces are lettered in the instructions. They are used in the order listed.

Two fabrics were used to make this project. My sample uses a solid for the background
and a print for the borders and back.

• Pellon 988 is used as the batting.

• We use and recommend Transpore medical tape for securing items in the hoop.
• We like to give our projects a final press using a Tailor’s Clapper for a professional
finish.
• Worsted weight yarn for the couching
• Upgrade kit for the Brother Sews Luminaire
• A plain bordered pillow is included for those who do not have the upgrade

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SUPPLIES NEEDED
• 10.50 x 10.50 or larger hoop
• Lightweight cutaway stabilizer (no show poly mesh)
• 1 piece of Pellon 988 (thin lightweight batting) 12”x12” A
• 1 piece of fabric for the background 8”x8” B
• 2 pieces of fabric for the border 8” x 2.50” C, D
• 2 pieces of fabric for the border 11.50” x 2.50” E, F
• 2 pieces of fabric for the back 12” x 14” G, H Fold each of these pieces wrong
sides together to measure 12”h x 7”w and press.
• Optional: Make a small pillow insert to fit inside the finished pillow using white
cotton fabric. Cut 2 pieces 10” x 10”. Place the pieces right sides together and
stitch around using ¼” seam leaving an opening for turning. Turn to the right
side and stuff with Polyfil. Stitch the opening closed.

Stitching the pillow

Hoop the stabilizer.

Center the batting piece A on top of the stabilizer.

Stitch step 1. This step stitches a placement guide.

Center fabric piece B right side up in the placement guide.

Stitch step 2. This step stitches the fabric in place and stitches the stippling.

Place border strip C right side down along the right hand side. Match the long edge of
the strip to the edge of the background fabric.

Stitch step 3. This step stitches fabric C to the background fabric.

Place border strip D right side down along the left hand side. Match the long edge of the
strip to the edge of the background fabric.

Stitch step 4. This step stitches fabric D to the background fabric.

Fold pieces C and D over so the right sides are visible. Press both borders.

Place border strip E right side down along the top edge. Match one long edge of the
strip to the edge of the background and border fabrics.

Stitch step 5. This step stitches fabric E down.

Place border strip F right side down along the bottom edge. Match one long edge of the
strip to the edge of the background and border fabrics.

Stitch step 6. This step stitches fabric F to the background fabric.

Fold pieces E and F over so the right sides are visible. Press both borders.

Stitch step 7. This step stitches the quilting in the borders. Make sure the borders
have all been pressed flat.

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Set the Luminaire up for couching. Attach the embroidery couching foot and side yarn
attachment. Thread the machine with thread that matches your yarn. Thread the yarn
through the top spool holders and the side attachment then through the hole in the
couching foot.
You will need to exit the pillow design and load the bird from the Couching category on
the Luminaire. Resize the bird as much as the machine will allow.

Stitch the bird leaving a long tail at the beginning and end. When finished stitching
the bird thread the yarn ends through a large eye needle and pull them to the back side.
Tie into a small know and trim the ends.

Remove the yarn and thread from the machine. Put the embroidery foot back on the
machine and remove the side attachment. Thread the machine and load the pillow
design. Advance the design to the last step.

Place piece G with the fold pointing towards the inside of the hoop and the raw edges
even with the bottom edge of the fabrics in the hoop.

Place piece H with the fold pointing towards the inside of the hoop and the raw edges
even with the top edge of the fabrics in the hoop.

The folds will overlap near the center of the hoop.

Stitch the last step of the design. This will stitch all the way around the pillow.

Remove the design from the hoop. Trim ¼” from the stitching all around. Clip the
corners diagonally. Turn the pillow to the right side through the folds. Push the corners
out well. Press the borders. Do not press over the yarn. Place the insert inside.

©Embroidery Garden ~ R Wilcoxson

LEGAL NOTICE, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED All Sales are final.
All of my designs are Copyrighted and treated as software. Purchase of designs from Embroidery Garden is a license to
use the designs. Any form of sharing, loaning, copying, duplicating, re-selling or any other transfer of my designs,
whether purchased or a free design, is strictly prohibited. You can combine my design with other designs and/ or fonts.
You CAN NOT take my designs apart and use any pieces or parts of the original design to create new designs for sale or
personal use. You cannot use my designs, purchased or free, in classes without my permission. Each class member must
purchase from my web site. Instructors are not allowed to share, copy, duplicate or in any manner distribute my designs.
Read my full copyright here: http://www.embroiderygarden.com/shop/copyright-notice.html

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Emily Thompson – Christmas Tree Pillow

Please follow the following link for instructions:

https://lifesewsavory.com/diy-christmas-decorations-throw-pillows/
 It’s Sew Easy

Dress up with Machine Embroidery

Presented by: Joanne Banko

www.letsgosew.com

Dress up with machine Embroidery! See how machine embroidery can turn a plain kimono wrap dress
into a fashion statement that shows off your creativity. In this segment we’ll turn line art into stitches using
a simple app for the Stellaire embroidery machine, creating an embroidery design that fits the pattern style
and the fabric choice. You’ll also see a neat self-fabric binding used instead of using a standard facing.

Visit letsgosew.com for updates, more project instructions, and It’s Sew Easy TV series 1900 BONUS FILES,
including a find a free step-by-step tutorial for the self-fabric binding.

Are you ready? Let’s go sew!

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Materials and supplies featured in this show:
• Brother Stellaire XJ1 Sewing and Embroidery machine with My Design Snap mobile app to capture an
image and send it to the machine for creating embroidery data.
Resources for using this app: CLICK HERE to download the My Design Snap App Assistant book from
Brother. In addition, you’ll find a Brother support video on YouTube with steps for Converting a Line
Drawing to Embroidery Data.
• Brother ScanNCut DX Innov-ís Edition SDX225
• Embroidery supplies including Brother SA5815 adhesive backed stabilizer.
• Pattern tracing cloth or paper for creating sleeve band pattern.
• Featured pattern: Simplicity 8925 Kimono Wrap Dress Pattern for knits only.

Note: You can substitute most any pattern with an easy fitting full sleeve for the dress pattern shown
here. Feel free to experiment with adding designs to other areas of your custom-made garment or consider
embroidering on ready-mades using the general ideas presented here.

Notes about creating a line art embroidery design to decorate the dress: You’ll find the Brother My Design Feature
included with several Brother model machines. With this built-in program you can create original embroidery
designs using imported line art like I did in this segment, by using shapes built-in to the machine, or by drawing
lines directly on the screen. I chose to use a line art image included with the built-in menu of the Brother
ScanNCut. My main goal was to create an interesting design that would be compatible with the medium weight
knit fabric selected for my dress. Creating an original design gives you control over size, stitch type, density, and
more! My Design Center serves as a built-in design creation program that’s easy to use and does not require
computer expertise. Explore your options and review the My Design Center section of your machine manual for
more details.

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 Tips and Techniques featured in this show

Convert your pattern from a standard facing to a self-bound finish:

• I prefer to eliminate facing whenever possible, especially for knit garments. Binding edges with stretchy
fabric cut on the cross grain gives a look of high quality ready-to-wear. Visit the 1900 BONUS FILES
Section of letsgosew.com for a free step-by-step tutorial on this technique.

Check the neckline for desired coverage before cutting out your dress:

• Consider placing your pattern on your dress form or on your actual body, matching up the shoulder line
to see where the neckline will fall. Place tissue underneath and roughly draw a new line to raise the
neckline if necessary. Next, place on a flat surface and use a curved fashion ruler to true up the lines.
When in doubt, add more than you think you will need. You can always trim excess during a trial fitting.

Prepare pattern for the separate embroidered band:

• Begin by overlapping the shoulder seams to form a full sleeve. Decide on the final size of your design and
mark off an area on the pattern that will fit your embroidery design. Note the hem allowance and make
sure the design fits within the space. In the examples shown below my band piece measures 6-inches
deep. I traced the band area to form a separate pattern piece for the sleeve band and then cut the dress
pattern pieces on the line indicated. Note that you’ll need to add seam allowance to both pieces.

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Create a line art embroidery motif using an image from ScanNCut SDX225:

• Set up ScanNCut for drawing with pen holder and included black pen. To draw outline, begin by placing
plain white paper on ScanNCut low tack adhesive mat. Select line art motif from built-in menu. See
example below:

• Move line art to draw image near the center of the paper. Note: You can re-size the image now or change
the size when you create the embroidery design. Place the image under the specially marked hoop to
capture the image. I used a 5” X 7” hoop to easily accommodate the band for my dress.

Create a lightweight embroidery design using My Design Center options:

• Capture the drawn image and use the wireless My Design Snap App to send image to the machine. Basic
steps for creating design are as follows: Retrieve the image, touch SET, crop image close to drawing, touch
OK, touch SET. Choose line type and color using LINE TOOL KEYS. See tools below:

• After selecting the bucket tool, touch the connected

lines with your finger or a stylus to turn lines into
stitches. Touch NEXT to preview stitches and make
changes. To create a lightweight, flexible design for
the knit I changed the size to 1.40, and made the
pattern repeat 2X for my diamond style chain stitch.
To finish, touch SET >PREVIEW >OK >SET to
convert to stitches, then touch OK and continue to
embroidery screen to stitch design.

Note: Icons and screens may vary slightly from the

version seen in this segment.

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Embroider on a separate (oversized) band:

• Determine how many motifs you want to stitch. Cut a generously sized piece of fabric and stabilize with a
full layer of the adhesive backed water soluble stabilizer.
• Embroider designs using your favorite method for connecting continuous designs. Tip: make sure designs
fall within the open space between the hemline and the seamline.
• Place band pattern over embroidered piece with center of band matching center of motif. In the images
below you’ll see that I embroidered the motifs to finish along the fold of the hemline. Once the bands are
embroidered and cut, you can finish construction of the dress.

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Instructions for the Drawstring Bag by Emily Thompson can be found at the
following link:

https://lifesewsavory.com/drawstring-makeup-bag-sewing-tutorial/
How to Add a Bow Cuff
By Lindsey Rae Marsh
of Sew To Grow

www.sewtogrow.com.au

I am so excited to show you how to add this extremely cute and on trend
bow detail to any sleeve. Add it to your short or long sleeved tops or
dresses to make this a wardrobe staple in any season.

You will want to have your chosen sleeve already cut out and ready to attach
the bow cuff detail.

Segment 2 Supplies:
- You will only need a few basic supplies for today’s project.
• You will need your pattern pieces for the bias and Bow cuff. (Cuff and Bias
template provided.

• Scissors, pins, erasable fabric marking pen, point turner and a seam gauge or
ruler.

• I also like to have an edge stitching foot for my machine for helping me create
perfect topstitching.

• For the fabric, I suggest using a lightweight woven fabric such as rayon to give
your bow a soft draped feel, or use medium weight woven fabrics to add more
structure to your bow.

Segment 3 Cutting:
Cuff X 2 Slit Bias X 2
- The first thing you will want to do is to cut
out your bow cuff and bias strips using
your template.

- You are going to cut out 4 bow cuffs and

2 bias strip to make the cuffs for both
sleeves.

1
Segment 4 Marking Sleeve:
- Take one of your sleeves and find the
middle by folding in half and slightly
creasing.

- Next, use your seam gauge to mark a line

4” long. Im also going to put a small dot
3/8” from the top of my line. This is going to 4” and Cut

be my stop sewing mark. I am also going to Mark sewing

guide at
mark a 1/2” line along the bottom edge on 1/2”
the right side. We will use this later when
attaching the cuff.
- Cut on the 4” line that you marked

Attaching Bias to Slit in sleeve:

- Once you’ve done that you are going to take one of your bias strips and iron in
half wrong sides together.
- Now, take your bias and pin the raw edges matching to one side of your slit. Go
ahead and transfer your stop sewing mark to your bias.
- Go to your machine and we are going to sew a 3/8” seam allowance. You should
see a line on your machine to indicate 3/8” or also 10mm
- Sew a small reverse stitch at the beginning and keep sewing until you reach the
stop sewing mark. Cut your threads.
- Now you are going to fold your bias down at a right angle and then back upon its
self. Pin in place. I like to take my marking pen and mark my Start sewing mark,
which will be exactly where your stop sewing mark was.
- Place back under your machine and slowly lower your needle into place. Once
you are happy with the position you can lower your presser foot. I like to do a fix
stitch or a couple of stitches in place rather than a back stitch for this part. Sew
the rest of the way down, back stitching at the end.
- TIP: In the It’s Sew Easy TV segment I did this all as one step to save time. It
would be much easier to break this down into two steps, as in the directions
above, so that you get a perfect pivot for your bias.

2
Marking and Sewing Mitered edge:

- Once sewn, fold your sleeve out to the way so that your bias is
laying out to the side.

• Next use a ruler and marking utensil to draw a mitered edge.

• Sew on the line
• Trim the excess.
- Press the bias and pin to the wrong side of your sleeve.

Topstitching Bias to Sleeve:

- If you have an edge stitching foot, go ahead and attach that to
your machine and position your needle so that you are about
1/8” away from the inside folded edge. If you are using a
normal foot then try to line up your foot so that you have a line
to follow and are sewing the same 1/8” away from the inside
folded edge.
- Sew and pivot in the corner, then sew the rest of the way down.

Sew Bow Cuffs Together:

- Take and pin a bow cuff right sides together.
- Before sewing your sleeve together, place
your sleeve along one edge of your cuff. Clip Corners
Mark the start and start of the sleeve. Give
your self about 1/2” past either side of the Leave Open
sleeve.
- Next, you are going to sew your bow cuff
starting and stopping at your marks. This
will leave a gap in between.
- Clip Corners once sewn.
Turn out Corners
- Turn right side out using preferred tool.
Press Flush
- Poke out corners

3
- Press.

Sew Sleeve Together:

- Next, Pin and sew your sleeve right sides
together.

Segment 10 Attach Bow Cuff to Sleeve:

- Take your sleeve and flatten out as much as possible.
- Find middle of sleeve and middle of cuff by folding in half.
- Slide the edge of the sleeve into the opening of the bow cuff matching it up to the
1/2” line you marked earlier and pinning in place
- Pin into place from the right side.
- Once pinned, go back to your
machine and make sure you still
have your edge stitching foot and
needle set for top stitching.
Pin through Cuff
- I like to start at the edge of the cuff on both sides
Place sleeve
and sew from the under side.
in
- Sew around the entire cuff pivoting Cuff ope ning
at the edges and coming all the
way back to where you started.

- Trim off any threads you may have.

- Once everything is sewn, you can now Tie your pretty Bow.
- Repeat for your other sleeve.
- Now you can attach this gorgeous sleeve to your pattern.

4
Instructions for the Snaps & Zips by Emily Thompson can be found at the following
link:

https://lifesewsavory.com/sweater-sewing-pattern-with-snap-shoulders/

and

https://lifesewsavory.com/sewing-hack---zipper-neckline/
 It’s Sew Easy

Custom Tool Roll

Presented by: Joanne Banko

www.letsgosew.com

Why store tools in a bulky box when you can make a custom crafted, personalized tool holder. Perfect for wrenches
and other shop tools, this durable tool pouch rolls up neatly, keeping the tools inside neat and secure. In this how
you’ll learn how to create a custom pattern, easily position and stitch a string of monogram letters, and sew bar
tacks for reinforcing pockets. Are you ready? Let’s go sew!

Inside of Finished Tool Roll Finished Tool Roll Secured with Hook & Loop Strap

1
Materials and supplies featured in this show:
• Brother XJ1 Stellaire
• Pattern tracing cloth or paper for creating a pattern. See instructions below for making custom pattern and
then use pattern to determine fabric requirements.
• One piece of hook and loop strap product measuring 3/4-inch wide X 10-inches long to wrap and tie tool
roll. I used VELCRO® BRAND ONE-WRAP® ROLL
• Basic sewing notions including good quality polyester thread to match fabric, a size 16 jeans needle, clips
for securing layers together, and measuring and marking tools. I used Coats & Clark™ Dual Duty XP thread.
• Fabric for tool roll:
o Fabric #1 – Firm cotton duck cloth or cotton canvas for base piece (inside) tool roll and pocket pieces.
o Fabric #2 - Rip-stop nylon for (outside), lining tool roll.

Steps for making tool roll shown in this example:

Here’s the formula for making the pattern: Measure each tool for both height and maximum width and record
measurements adding ½-inch to the width of each tool to determine width of slot for each individual tool. Now,
add width for each tool together to get total amount for the entire width of the pocket piece needed. Next, subtract
2-inches from the tallest tool and 1-inch from the shortest tool and record these measurements for the high and
low end of your pocket piece. Note: Measurements do not need to be overly precise. Round up uneven fractions.
½-inch is an approximate amount for ease, so you can easily replace and remove tools. Adjust this measurement
if you want a tighter or looser effect.

Start by making the pocket piece as follows: Prepare a large piece of tracing cloth to draw the pocket piece. Start
with a long horizontal line to represent the bottom edge. Next, draw a line on the far left to represent the
measurement for the tall end of the pocket. Add up the distance you need for the width of each pocket and draw
a line for the short end of the pocket at the end of that distance. Draw pocket stitching lines using the total width
you need as a slot for each tool. Connect the tallest line with the shortest, drawing a slanted line from left to right
to represent the top of the pocket edge. Finish this pattern piece by adding a ½-inch seam allowance along the
entire outside edge.

Next, using the finished pocket piece as a guide, make the pattern for the main base piece and lining, adding 3-
inches to your tallest line for the height, and using the width of the finished pocket piece for the total width
measurement. See example below, noting different colored lines for each of the recorded measurements. Black
outline shows the final pocket cutting line with ½-inch seam allowance added.

2
Cut all fabric pieces needed for tool roll.

Mark lines to use as a guide for decorative accent. I used Dritz ¼-inch quilters tape to mark a V shape above the
pocket line. Sew evenly spaced rows as an accent.

To personalize the piece, program letters or a name

using built -in fonts on the sewing side of the
machine. Sew accent lines and add lettering above
lines. Tip: Here is my method for precisely aligning
the lettering. First, mark a center line on your project
piece. It’s a good idea to mark the bottom line for
stitching as well, so you can have a guideline to keep
you straight while stitching. Next, stitch the lettering
on a sample piece of fabric. Fold the sample in half
and mark the exact center of the string of lettering.
Match up the center points, unfold, and then mark
the beginning of your line of stitching on the project.
This tells you exactly where you need to start
stitching your line of lettering so you can stitch with
confidence knowing your lettering is centered.

3
 To create pocket, place pocket
pieces right sides together and sew
the slanted edge using a ½-inch
seam. Turn so right sides are facing
out and press.

Layer pocket on top of base piece. Stitch pocket lines. Re-enforce top edge of pockets with extra
stitching, zig zag stitches, or bar tacks. Layer lining piece on top with right sides together and the
hook and loop strap piece along edge with the shortest pocket. Secure layers with clips and sew a
½-inch seam on all edges except the top.

Fold raw edges under ½-inch at the top and close opening by stitching close to the edge.

You are finished!

4
Visit letsgosew.com for updates, more project instructions, and It’s Sew Easy TV series 1900 BONUS FILES.

5
 Cork Can Cooler Written Instructions
by SewGnar

MATERIALS NEEDED
• 20” x 4.75” or Please read entire pattern before
Medium cut of cork from Fabric Funhouse beginning.
• (2) 4.25 x 3.25 InsulBrite Thermal Batting
• Coordinating Thread
• Clips (Fabric Clips, alligator clips, etc.) Seam Allowance is 1/8” throughout.
Optional
• Quick Dry Fabric Glue (Beacon Fabri-tac)
• Chalk or fabric pen for marking lines

1) PRINT AND PREP PIECES

Print pattern pieces at “Actual Size”/100%.

With Can Cooler Body wrong side up and short edges on left and right of your work area, mark lines
at 5”, 10”, and 15”.

Take Pattern Piece A and lay it at the top left corner, lining up top and left straight edges of both
the Can Cooler Body and Pattern Piece. Trace around pattern piece. Flip the pattern piece down to
the bottom left corner, lining up left and bottom side straight edges, trace. Repeat these two steps
with the top right corner and bottom right corner. The notches of the pattern piece will face the
center of the Can Cooler Body.

Lay Pattern Piece B in the middle of the Can Cooler Body, matching midline on pattern piece to the
10” line we made earlier, lining up long straight edges with the notches facing in toward the center.
Trace. Flip the pattern piece to the opposite side of long edge of Can Cooler Body, centering it on
that same 10” midline. Trace.

Cut out all areas that you’ve traced using scissors.

2) ATTACH INSULBRITE
Glue one Insulbrite batting piece to wrong side of the Can Cooler Body, measuring roughly 1/4” on
the right side of the 5” marked line, and centered on top and bottom long edge. This doesn’t have to
be an exact science so don’t fret if it’s not perfectly centered. Repeat for 2nd piece of batting, lining
it up roughly 1/4” on the left side of the 15” line.

4) FOLD SHORT EDGES

Fold left side short edge in toward center of Can Cooler Body at 10” line previously made. Line up
all cut out areas, glue or clip in place.

Repeat for right side short edge, folding in to the left, aligning all cut out areas on that same 10”
line. Glue or clip in place.

The folded edges will now be referred to as the Top Lip Edges.
5) QUILT LAYERS TOGETHER
Starting at any point on the Can Cooler, quilt everything together.

You can be wild here and sew in any and all directions, be more controlled and sew measured lines,
or even “draw” with your thread. The point of this step is to ensure all layers are now quilted
together as one. Regardless of the stitch pattern you decide on, be sure to topstitch around
entire outside of the Can Cooler Body. See diagram below.

6) FINAL CONSTRUCTION
Fold what will be the Can Cooler Body’s OUTSIDE, right sides together, lining up the Top Lip Edges.
That 10” marked line will now be exposed along the bottom of the can cooler. Clip the raw edge
short sides together. Using a 1/8” seam allowance, stitch down both raw edge sides as shown in
diagram to the right.

Be sure to backstitch VERY WELL at the beginning and end, or if you have the option on your
sewing machine, use the triple stitch option. We want these side seams to be as strong as possible
because flipping this Can Cooler right side out is going to stress those stitches.

7) FINISHING
Starting at the bottom cut out area of the assembled Can Cooler, flip the piece so that the right side
is out. Once you have it all situated, you can lay a heavy object on it to flatten it all and relax
everything back out.

To purchase the full pattern please visit my site using the shop link below, and check out Fabric
Funhouse for the best cork fabric selection and quality!

© 2019 SewGnar
Pattern Shop: https://www.sewgnar.co
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sewgnar/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SewGnar/
Sewing Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/sewgnarsewingpatterns/

Cork from Fabric Funhouse

Shop: https://fabricfunhouse.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/fabricfunhouse/

COPYRIGHT INFORMATION
This pattern is meant for personal use only. Pattern must be purchased retail and
created by one person, in their home. Feel free to sell your creations, however
this pattern is not for commercial use. This pattern may not be republished or
distributed in any form without the express permission of SewGnar.

A link to my website and/or social media outlets would be appreciated when

posting or selling your creations.
 It’s Sew Easy

Three Way Sweater Wrap

Presented by: Joanne Banko

www.letsgosew.com

Made from lightweight sweater knit, you’ll reach for this accessory time and time again! Each wrap shown here
features unique in-seam buttonholes at one end of the wrap, a technique originally developed for the embroidered
version made from lightweight faux suede. Wear this chic cozy wrap three ways for maximum versatility! Are
you ready? Let’s go sew!

Materials and supplies featured in this show:

• Brother XP1 Luminaire Sewing & Embroidery machine
• Pattern tracing cloth for creating sweater wrap pattern.
• Basic sewing notions, measuring tool, and a size 11 stretch needle.
• Three (1 ½-inch) buttons for wrap closure and three small buttons used as backer buttons to add strength.
• Lightweight, soft sweater knit cut using patterns created in step #1 of instructions.
• Lightweight fusible tricot interfacing for stabilizing fabric.

1
Steps for making Sweater Wrap:
1. Create patterns as follows: Draw a rectangle measuring 45-inches wide X 17-inches long for the main wrap
piece. Draw a rectangle measuring 10-inches wide X 17-inches long for bands at each end. See pattern
examples below:

Note: To economize on fabric you can add a seam in place of the foldline on the band.

2. Use patterns to cut two large rectangles for main wrap piece and two rectangles for bands at each end.
3. Cut eight strips of interfacing measuring 1-inch wide X 17-inches long, using stable grain of interfacing for
the length of strip. Tip: Cut long edges using pinking shears or a rotary pinking blade to soften the edges.
Fuse strips to each of the eight short raw edges of main wrap pieces and band pieces to keep these seams
from stretching.
4. Select one of the main wrap pieces and one of the band pieces. Sew one short end of band to one short
end of wrap piece. Select the second wrap piece and sew remaining short end of band to corresponding
edge of second wrap piece.
5. To form the end with in-seam buttonhole openings, you’ll need to start by marking off openings on both
wrap pieces and the remaining band piece. Use image below as a guide:

6. Sew short ends of band to each short end of wrap pieces, stitching between the marked lines for buttonhole
openings, and taking care to re-enforce stitches at the beginning and ending of each stitching line. You
have now formed a large loop of fabric. Press all seams open and then topstitch close to each seamline to
keep seams flat. Tip: You can trim a small amount of the seam allowance after topstitching if you like.
7. Place the piece on a large flat surface and pin long sides, carefully matching the lower band seams, with
buttonholes directly on top of one another. Pin and then sew long edges using a ½-inch seam allowance.
Turn wrap right side out. Note: If your fabric is bulky, you’ll need to leave a small opening along one side
to turn wrap right side out. If your fabric is soft and light you can pull the wrap through to the right side
using the opening formed by the buttonhole.

2
8. Carefully press the wrap flat and close opening in side seam if necessary. Smooth fabric layers making
sure buttonhole openings are directly on top of one another. Sew a small tacking stitch at the crosswise
end of each buttonhole, sewing through all layers to keep layers from shifting.

To finish, mark positions for buttons on the left side

of the wrap. Note that the buttonhole on the lower
band is on the right side of the body so you can wear
this wrapped right over left like a jacket. Sew
buttons through both layers of wrap, backing the
large button with a small one on the back side to add
strength. To wear this wrap three ways, you can
simply change the buttoning position and drape the
wrap wherever you find it most flattering. I suggest
standing in front of a mirror and experimenting with
different looks while changing the button positions.

If you’re interested in the embroidered version of this wrap you can click on the image
below and preview my book titled Wrapped in Embroidery. The book features a total
of nine machine embroidered wrap projects with photographs and illustrations showing
step by step instructions for making simple wrap patterns, embroidering each
wrap, and sewing them so they look completely finished on both right and wrong sides.
The book also includes a CD with 16 classic embroidery designs to coordinate with the
wraps.

Visit letsgosew.com for updates, more project instructions, and It’s Sew Easy TV series 1900 BONUS FILES.

3
 AN EXCERPT FROM

Night and Day

Dress
SAILOR COLLAR INSTRUCTIONS

© 2018 Charm Patterns by Gertie

R E Q U I R E D YA R DAG E SQUARE COLLAR
& CUTTING 1. Pin interfaced Square Collar Front (24) to interfaced Square Collar
Sides (25) as shown, matching notches. Stitch, pivoting at corners.
Square Collar, Fabric and
Interfacing (24, 25, 26)
Sizes 2-8 Sizes 10-16
3/4 yd 3/4 yd 24
45 in
0.69 m
5/8 yd
0.69 m
3/4 yd
25 25
60 in
0.57 m 0.69 m

2. Pin Square Collar Sides to interfaced Square Collar Back (26) pieces,
matching notches. Stitch.
25 25

24 26 24 26

45 in, all sizes

FOLD

60 in, all sizes

FOLD 26 26

BEFORE SEWING
Transfer marks: Use dress-maker’s 3. Fold Collar Back lengthwise, RS together, and pin along short ends at
tracing paper and a tracing wheel to center back. Stitch.
copy darts and other pattern marks
to the wrong side (WS) of your
fabric. Mark the pattern notches by 26 26
making a snip into the point of the
notch with the tip of your scissors.

Interface: Many pattern pieces

need to be stabilized with fusible
interfacing before sewing. Follow 4. Trim as close as possible to all
the interfacing cutting instructions corners on stitched Square Collar, and
on the pattern pieces. Apply fusible trim the rest of stitched seam
interfacing to the WS of the fabric, allowances to 1/4 in (6 mm).
using a press cloth and steam.
Do not move your iron back and
5. Turn collar RS out, turning out
forth; lift it up and press down for
corners. Using an iron to reach
several seconds at a time until the
between layers, press mitered-corner
interfacing is fully adhered.
seam allowances open.

Fold collar along the rest of its sides,

WS together and raw edges aligned.
KEY TO
Lining
Press entire collar flat. Baste collar’s
ILLUSTRATIONS
Right side raw edges together using a long
Main fabric Lining machine stitch with a 1/2 in (1.3 cm)
Right side Wrong side seam allowance.
Main fabric Fusible Note: If using trim on collar, stitch
Wrong side interfacing
trim on now (see p. 3).
N I G H T A N D D A Y D R E S S S A I L O R C O L L A R   |  2
6. Baste Square Collar to Square Neckline Bodice at the neckline, S A I LO R T R I M
aligning collar to notches at center back.
I love nautical elements on a dress,
and the Square Collar is a great
place to use white ribbon trim for a
sailor-style collar. After constructing
the collar, but before basting it to
the bodice, pin and stitch ribbon
trim to it. Place 1/4-in-wide (6-mm)
grosgrain ribbon 1/2 in (1.3 cm)
away from the folded edge of the
P R E PA R I N G FAC I N G / B O D I C E L I N I N G collar, turning under the cut end
Choose either a neckline facing or full-bodice lining below. of the ribbon. Edgestitch along the
ribbon’s edges.
N E C K L I N E FAC I N G ( F O R A D R E S S W I T H S L E E V E S
AND NO LINING):
1. Sew interfaced Neckline Facing 30 30
32 32
Front to interfaced Neckline Facing
Back (29 and 30 for square neckline,
31
31 and 32 for round neckline) at
shoulder seams, RS together. Press 29
seam allowances open.

2. Finish lower edge of facing unit

by serging or other method of your
choice.

FINISHING
NECKLINE
This is my clean-finish method that creates a tidy finish on the inside of the Place another row of ribbon 1/2 in
dress’s neckline. The following instructions are illustrated with a neckline facing, away from the first, overlapping the
but the methods are the same for a lining or an all-in-one-facing. ribbons at the collar’s corners.

1. Prepare to attach facing/lining: Pin facing/lining to outer bodice

along neckline, RS together. At zipper opening’s top edge, fold seam
allowances as follows, working with bodice back facing up and RS out:
on the right half of opening (the underlap), fold both seam allowances
to facing/lining WS 1/2 in (1.3 cm). The facing/lining seam allowance is
nested inside the outer fabric seam allowance. On opening’s left half (the
overlap), fold facing/lining seam allowance to WS 7/8 in
(2.2 cm). Fold outer fabric seam allowance to WS 5/8 in (1.5 cm). Seam
allowances nest together, with facing/lining seam allowance
1/4 in (6 mm) wider. Folding seam allowances this way ensures facing/
lining is finished neatly around lapped zipper at neckline.

N I G H T A N D D A Y D R E S S S A I L O R C O L L A R   |  3
 overlap underlap overlap underlap

2. Sew facing/lining to outer bodice: Stitch around neckline, starting

at one folded edge (pivoting at corners for square neckline only) and
ending at the other folded edge. Grade seam allowances so that those on
outer bodice are the widest and those on the facing/lining are narrower.
(If there is a collar, trim its seam allowances to a width between bodice
and facing/lining.) For square neckline, clip into corners. For round PURCHASE THE
neckline, clip into curves every 1/2 in.
F U L L PAT T E R N
C H A R M PAT T E R N S. C O M

This is the most versatile dress

pattern you’ll ever own. This vintage-
inspired design has two bodices,
three skirts, six sleeve styles, and two
collars, giving you 72 dress designs
in one package. The “Choose Your
Own Adventure” style of instructions
3. Understitch neckline: From RS, with facing/lining opened out from lets you decide how you’ll finish
bodice and seam allowances underneath, stitch the facing/lining 1/8 in your dress—neckline facing, all-in-
(3 mm) from seamline, catching seam allowances in stitching. Turn one facing, partial lining, or full
facing/lining to bodice WS and press neckline edge, rolling seamline lining. Be the heroine of your own
inside. sewing escapade!

• Includes 2 bodices, 2 collars, 6

sleeves, and 3 skirts for a total of
72 potential dresses!

• B to DD cup sizes

• Includes a 70-page instruction

book

• Choose your own adventure with

multiple finishing options

• PDF has 11 AO size sheets and

231 A4/Letter size sheets

N I G H T A N D D A Y D R E S S S A I L O R C O L L A R   |  4
 Upcycle sewing made
simple.
IT’S SEW EASY Series 1700: The easy way to match fabric patterns

Repeat: The amount of space between repeating design elements (fabric, wallpaper, etc.).
Repeat is measured both horizontally and vertically and the two measurements together
are the length of the total repeat.
Print and plaid fabrics often repeat the
same design elements on a length of
yardage. Matching these elements in
garments & draperies gives a
professional appearance. Matching the
repeat is also a terrific method for
William Morris, Strawberry Thief

patching together pieces when yardage

runs short for a project.

Matching a pattern requires

purchasing additional yardage to
account for the size of the repeat.
www.onlinefabricstore.net gives a nice
explanation of how to determine the
repeat and calculate additional yardage
requirements.

The easiest method I have found for matching a repeat is to press under a seam allowance
and then position the fold on top of another piece of the fabric and move it around until the
pattern matches exactly. At that point, pin it in place, and top stitch on the fold (my
preference). Alternatively, fold the fabric over and pin along the seam allowance, and then
stitch along the seam allowance.
Careful alignment and pinning do not guarantee great results when sewing by
machine. When fabric is fed through the feed dogs (bottom) and presser foot (top) it feeds
at a slightly uneven rate. This discrepancy is not readily apparent for most projects;
however, when a pattern is being precisely matched even a 1/8” discrepancy can be
noticeable. The solution is a special foot known as “walking foot”.
A walking foot synchronizes the action of the presser foot with the machine’s feed dogs,
creating a perfectly aligned feed. Using a walking foot makes that careful alignment and
pinning pay off with perfect matches. Walking feet can be purchased as attachments.

Sew up these Paganoonoo designs & more, shop at www.etsy.com/

Peggy Patti Cindy Ashlee Sandy Patti Michelle Boro Jacket

©Paganoonoo, January 2, 2019, all rights reserved Page 1 of 1
Instructions for the embroidered PJ’s by Emily Thompson can be found at the
following link:

https://lifesewsavory.com/pajama-pants-pattern-free-pdf/
 Spoleto Ribbon Skirt
By Sarah Gunn

I. MATERIALS
1. A SIMPLE skirt pattern- pencil, straight or A-line

2. 1 yard to 1 ½ yards of midweight prewashed cotton fabric for your skirt base

3. One 9” invisible zipper in a color to coordinate with your ribbon

4. Approximately 19 – 20 yards 1 ½” ribbon for this skirt

This skirt is a finished length of ____19__” has __15____ rows, plus the ribbon
used for the facing. Add rows accordingly for additional length.

5. Thread in colors to match your ribbon. Note – since the seam for each layer is
hidden by the layer above, it’s not imperative to match each ribbon color exactly.

II. MARKING THE SKIRT BASE

1. Sew the darts and hem the skirt base to your desired length. (front and
back)
2. Next beginning ¾” above the hem, mark horizontal rows at 1 ¼”
increments. This will provide a ¼” overhang for each row of ribbons which
will conceal the stitching line.
(I like to mark with a heat soluble pen which will disappear when touched
by the iron)
3. After drawing the horizontal rows, number the rows starting at the bottom.
This step helps keep up with the ribbon placement and to accurately match
the rows before adding the ribbon.

III. ATTACHING THE RIBBONS

1. Starting at the bottom of the skirt, pin ribbon along the horizontal row.
2. Note: Sewing the bottom ribbon on to the base ¾” above the hemline
leaves a ½” overhang.
 3. Stitch – press from the back – then press from the front. Pressing as you go
will keep your ribbons and base flat.
4. If you’re using a heat soluble marker, remember to press from the bottom
so you don’t erase the rows you’ve sew carefully marked.
5. Stitch between two or three rows of ribbon on the front skirt then two or
three on the back skirt. This allows for easy checking on the placement
accuracy and ensures the ribbons are matching.
TIPS
1. When stitching the ribbon, place the needle in the far left position and
stitch as close to the top of the ribbon as possible.
2. You’ll notice the ribbon looks slightly wavy after stitching, but again
pressing will keep it nice and flat.
3. IRON

IV. SKIRT ASSEMBLY

1. Topstitch the upper ribbon at the lower edge
2. Finished the seam allowances. Serger, bias tape, or sewing the ribbons
down with straight stitch followed by a zig-zag stitch.
3. This step will help you treat the pattern piece as a single piece of fabric and
will keep everything in place when you match the sides.
4. Insert an invisible zipper
5. You want to use an invisible zipper to avoid distracting from the ribbon
rows. Notice when I zip the ribbons line up perfectly which is what we
want.
6. Attach skirt front to skirt back

VII. WAISTBAND and CLOSING

Once both sides are attached it’s time to finish the waist.
1. Using the ribbon as a facing provides a NEAT clean, simple finish and is easy
to do
2. Cut a piece of ribbon slightly larger than the waistline.
3. Stitch at a 5/8” seam - trim the seam allowance, clip, turn and turn under
the edges.

For more information visit: www.goodbyevalentino.com

Instructions for the Quilted Tablet Cover by Emily Thompson can be found at the
following link:

https://lifesewsavory.com/diy-ipad-case-sewing-tutorial/
EmbroideryGarden.com Social media links: Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Facebook Group

4x6 Frame Note Holder

Stitch a fun note holder that slides over a 4x6 acrylic photo frame completely ‘in the
hoop’. It also holds a pen as it sits on your desk.

READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING

All pieces are lettered in the instructions. They are used in the order listed.

Two fabrics are used to make this project. Our sample uses a printed fabric for the front
and the pocket on the back (B & E). Solid fabric was used for all the remaining pieces.

• Pellon 988 is used as the batting.

• We use and recommend Transpore medical tape for securing items in the hoop.
• We like to give our projects a final press using a Tailor’s Clapper for a professional
finish.
• We used cork fabric for the applique piece that ‘Notes” is embroidered on. An SVG
file is included to cut the oval using an electronic cutting machine that can read and
SVG. Cut the oval before beginning. When imported the oval file should measure
3.96” x 2.04”
• Single sided fusible lightweight interfacing used in the pocket to give it body to hold
the note pad. Cut a piece 7” x 4”.
• Fabric Glue Stick Pen used to secure the cork oval in place as it’s stitched down.

1
SUPPLIES NEEDED
• 5x7 hoop
• Lightweight cutaway stabilizer (no show poly
mesh)
• 4”w x 6”h Acrylic Photo Frame

• 3”x3” post it note pad

• 1 piece of Pellon 988 (thin lightweight batting) 7”w x 9”h A
• 1 piece of fabric for the front 7”w x 9”h B
• 1 pre-cut cork oval C
• 1 piece of fabric for the pocket 7”w x 8”h D Fold this piece in half wrong sides
together to measure 7”w x 4”h and press.
• 1 piece of fabric 7”w x 15”h E Fold this piece in half wrong sides together to
measure 7”w x 7.50”h and press.
• 1 piece of fabric 7”w x 9”h F

Before starting
• Cut the oval from cork using the included SVG file.
• Iron the piece the piece of interfacing to one half of the inside of piece D.

Stitching the Note Holder

Hoop the stabilizer.

Center batting piece A on top of the stabilizer. Place fabric piece B right side up
centered on top of the batting.

Stitch step 1. This step stipple quilts the fabric.

Stitch step 2. This step stitches the placement guide for the cork oval. Use thread that
blends into your fabric.

Apply glue to the back side of the cork oval. Position the cork piece right side up
centered carefully over the placement guide. Make sure it’s correctly in place and
secured.

Stitch step 3. This step stitches oval in place.

Stitch step 4. This step stitches the word ‘Notes’.

2
Stitch step 5. This step stitches 2 small placement lines on each side of the hoop to
show you where the pocket needs to be placed. The arrows are pointing to these
placement lines.

Place pocket piece D with the fold even with the 2 placement lines. The fold will be
towards the center of the hoop. Tape the folded edge in place.

Stitch step 6. This step stitches 2 small placement lines near the bottom edge of the
pocket. This holds the pocket in place and shows where the next piece needs to be
placed.

Place piece E so that the fold is even with the placement lines and the raw edges are
towards the top of the hoop.

Stitch step 7. This step stitches piece E on near the top of the hoop.

Place piece F right side down centered over the hoop.

Stitch step 8. This step stitches the holder together.

Remove the design from the hoop. Trim around the design ¼” from the stitching
leaving the opening about ¾” long. Clip the corners diagonally. Remove the excess from
the opening by trimming away all layers except the 2 pieces of fabric that make the
opening.

Turn it through the opening. Push all the corners out nicely and lightly press. Turn the
raw edges in (shown by the clips) and hand stitch the opening closed or use fusible tape
or glue to close it. Reach into the opening at the bottom and turn the holder again. Push
out the corners nicely and give it a final press. Slide it over the 4x6 frame. Place the
notes into the pocket but putting several pages of the page lightly into the pocket up to
where the pad is glued together.

©Embroidery Garden ~ R Wilcoxson

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