LPT- UNIT-II

Dated: 07/06/2021

Wool Technology Glossary…..

By: Dr. Gargi Mahapatra, Assistant Professor cum Junior Scientist
Department of Livestock Products Technology
Bihar Veterinary College
Bihar Animal Sciences University, Patna-14.
 Slide 1
• Wool: A cylindrical fibre of animal origin which is hygroscopic in nature, is
crimpled, elastic and grows in clusters. It is generally protein in nature and is
non-inflammable. Structurally it consists of a cortex and cuticle, it is devoid of
a medulla.
• Mohair: Natural fibre obtained from Angoora goats. Has approx. 25-45
microns diameter and is both resilient and durable. It is notable for its high
lustre and sheen, mohair has scales as wool but the scales are not fully
developed, hence it doesn’t felt like wool. Like wool mohair has no medulla
• Fur/ hair: A synonym for non-human hair. The term is sometimes used to
refer to the body hair of animal as a complete coat, also known as pelage.
Structurally it is similar to hair and it consists of cuticle, cortex and medulla.
 Slide 2
• Kemp: A coarser and brittle wool fibre. On cross-section it is found that it
contains the medulla in an irregular manner.
• Gare: Partially medullated or heterotype mohair fibre which at times also arise
from some secondary follicles.
• Pelt: The pelt of an animal usually refers to the undressed skin along with it’s
hair/wool/fur. It is also sometimes used to refer to the untanned skin of an
animal.
• Fleece: Fibre coat that covers a sheep.
• Fleece density: It is defined as the number of fibres grown per unit area of
skin, usually per sq. cm.
• Lock: A group of fibres clinging together in fleece.
 Slide 3
• Crimp: Natural waviness of a fibre. Finer the wool more is the crimp. It usually
varies 2-12/cm.
• Staple crimp : The natural wave in a greasy lock.
• Crimp width: The distance between the mid point of the successive valleys of
the projected crimp wave image.
• Crimp amplitude: It refers to crimp wave and is half the total depth from crest
to trough.
• Crimp depth: The perpendicular distance between the pique of a crimp wave
and the line joining the adjacent valleys of the projected crimp wave image.
• Crimp character: It refers to the regularity of crimp. It is badly affected by
copper deficiency.
CRIMP OF A WOOL FIBRE
 Slide 4
• Crimp frequency: Number of crimps per unit length.
• Shearing/Clipping: Manual removal of fleece either by scissors (k/a shears)
or by shearing machine.
• Greasy wool: Shorn wool with grease and wax, prior to removal of impurities.
• Burr: Vegetable matter present in the fleece of a sheep/goat.
• Scouring: Washing treatment of wool with detergent (sodium carbonate) for
removal of impurities from raw wool to obtain clean wool yield and is thus an
indication of quality of wool.
• Carbonization: The process of chemical treatment of wool for removal of
vegetable matter/burr.
 Slide 5
• Clean wool: Wool free from all impurities. It is expressed as percentage of total
weight.
• Fibrion: The silk protein is known as fibrin
• Suint: Secretion of suderiferous/sweat glands. It is mostly of alkaline nature
and has potassium salts.
• Wax: A product of sebaceous glands which are present near the wool follicles.
• Wool yolk: Wool wax with suint is known as wool yolk. It is water soluble and is
present in raw wool . It is more in finer wool and it increases in winter season.
• Rise in wool: Seasonal increase in flow of wax.
• Hunger Finess: Wool of under nourished sheep as of nutritional scarcity
producing lighter but finer fleece.
** The alkalinity of the suint helps in emulsification of the wool wax coating on
the fibre and thereby allows the suint pigments to penetrate in the fibre.
 Slide 6
• Keratin: Wool protein is basically known as keratin.
• Keratinization: The process of hardening of previously soft fibrous protein.
• Medulla: The hollow central core found in coarse and medium wool fibre as well as in
kemp.
• Medullation: The condition of formation of medulla.
• Staple length: length of one lock without disturbing the natural waviness of the
lock, which is a measure of wool quality consisting of an average lock or bunch of fibre
without extension of its natural form.
• Fibre length: Length of a wool fibre in its stretched position such that all the crimps
are flattened to a straight line .
• Scale: Flattened cuticular cells which are present in the outer most surface of a fibre.
Its function is to protect the cortex of a wool fibre. They are arranged in corona,
reticulate or corona-reticulate fashion.
 Slide 7
• Scouring: Washing treatment of wool with detergent for removal of impurities
from raw wool to obtain clean wool yield. It is an indication of wool quality.
• Carbonization: The process of chemical treatment of wool for removal of
vegetable matter called burr.
• Sweating: The process of removal of wool from its follicles either by bacterial
digestion or by application of depilatory agent to the under surface of the pelt.
• Rooing: Plucking of fleece from indigenous sheep having double coat
undergoing partial mounting or loosening of fibres
• Fellmongering: The process of removal of wool fibre from sheep skin through
application of chemicals like sodium sulphide or by administration of artificial
moulting agents such as thallium.
 Slide 8
• Felting: It is defined as the ability of a textile material to undergo irreversible
increase in bulk density when subjected to friction and pressure under suitable
physical conditions.
• S:P ratio: It is the ratio of secondary to primary follicles present in an unit
area of skin.
• Average number of secondary follicles: It is obtained by multiplying the
S:P ratio by average number of primary follicles in the group/triad.
• Hank: A unit defining the length of the yarn or thread. It is also a measure of
wool quality mainly in case of worsted system. A worsted hank is 560 Yds for
1 pond of clean wool and for cotton it is 840 Yds/lb of cotton fibre.
• Lea: It is the measure of length and is 1/7 of a hank. Thus a Worsted Lea is 80
Yds and Cotten Lea is 120 Yds.
 Slide 9
• Grains: It is also a unit for the measure of length of wool fibre. 1 lea= 1000
grains thus one 1 Hank= 7000 grains.
• Handle: It is the measure of fine-ness of wool. A subjective assessment of
diameter of thr fibre with respect to tactile qualities.
• Count: It is an index of thickness of yarn. It is the number of Leas that weigh
1000 gms. It is expressed as deniers and denoted by numbers followed by letters.
• Metric number: It is defined as length of fibre in metres per gram of weight.
• Grex or Tex system: It is a system of expressing fibre diameter based on 1000
metres of fibre for yarn count.
 Woolen Yarns Worsted Yarns
1. Spun from short bres(1-3 inches) . Spun from bres > 3 inch length.
2. Spun from medium/ coarse wool. Spun from ne wool bre.
3. Lower tensile strength . Higher tensile strength.
4. Twist in yarn is low to medium. Twist in yarn is tight.
5. Heavier in weight. Lighter in weight.
6. Knitwares made are less durable. Knitwares are more durable.
7. Woolen bres are washed, scoured Woolen bres are washed then
and carded. scoured, carded, combed, drawn
8. Hand feel is bulky, uneven and has Handfeel is ne, smooth. It has
softy fuzzy appearance. a crisp appearance
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 Slide 10
• Skirting: Removal of objectionably dirty or stained and matted wool such as tags,
bellies locks from fleece after shearing.
• Carding: The type of processing which is made through the short wool so as to open
the wool by individualising the fibres through cardwise which work in different
directions. This process involves combing and paralleling of fibres prior to spinning
in order to remove short undesirable fibres and produce a sliver.
• Sliver: A strand of long untwisted fibre produced in carding.
• Roving: A soft strand of fibre that has been twisted, attenuated and freed of foreign
matter, preparatory to its conversion into yarn.
• Drafting: Attenuation of condensed sliver from the carding to the desired weight or
thickness with-in the final wooden yarns.
 Warp, Weft & Weave
WARP: T HE LONGITUDINAL SECTION OF
F ABRIC /F IBRE ARRANGED IN LONG SHEETY
F ORM FOR THE PURPOSE OF INTERLACING
W ITH THE LATITUDINAL SECTION OF THE
FABRIC /F IBRE IN A PARTICULAR MODE .

WEFT: T HE LATITUDINAL SECTION OF

F ABRIC /F IBRE WHICH IS WEAVED INTO THE WARP .

WEAVE: T HE P ARTICULAR MODE OF INTERLACEMENT OF WARP AND

WEFT .
 Slide 11
• Ends: The individual threads of a warp is known as ends.
• Picks: The individual threads of a weft is known as picks.
• Weaving: The technology in which two series of threads are used to produce a
fabric one running longitudinally and other latitudinally. It is the
interlacement of two set of threads to form a fabric.
• Knitting: The technique in which only one series of thread is used to produce a
fabric . It may be warp knitting when only one warp series is used to increase
the fabric length longitudinally or weft knitting when only latitudinal series
is used.
• Design: The outcome of the interlacement of warp and weft together.
 Slide 12
• Loftiness: Spongy feeling of fabrics on touch.
• Cotting: Occurrence of loose fibres in fleece resulting from break.
• Tippiness/Wispy: The thinness of fibre owing to poor nutrition at the time of
previous shearing which is associated with rapid rate of growth of coarse fibre.
• Swift: An adjustable device upon which a handoff yarn is placed to wind into
skeins or balls.
• Skein: A length of yarn or thread wound on a reel or swift
• Breaking strength : The force required to rupture a fibre or bundle of fibres.
 Slide 13
• Milling: A process essential in wool manufacturing to impart fullness and
body to the material.
• Denier: It is the mass in gram of 9000 metres of the yarn.
• Kilotex: It is the mass in kilogram of 1 km of yarn used to denote in case of
cord and coarse yarns
• Millitex: It is the mass in milligram of 1 km of the yarn. It is used to express
fine-ness of the fibre.
• Tex : It is defined as the mass in gram of 1000metres/1 km of yarn.
 Slide 14
• Ply yarns: They are two or more single yarns twisted together. Two-ply yarn,
for example, is composed of two single strands of wool; three-ply yarn is
composed of three single strands of wool.
• Cord Yarn : They are produced by twisting ply yarns together.
 Slide 13
• Primary colours: As per pigment theory of colour primary colours are Red,
Yellow and Blue. They are bright.
• Secondary colour: Mixture of any two primary colours. They are orange
green and purple. They are bright.
• Tertiary colours: Mixture of any two secondary colours. They are duller than
secondary colours.
• Quaternary colours: Mixture of any two tertiary colours. They are duller
than tertiary colours.
• Hue : It is pure spectrum of colour whithout any black or white.
• Tint: It is hue with white added.
Thank….
….You

BY: DR. GARGI MAHAPATRA