INTRODUCTION

A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials together with threads.
Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the quantum of
manual sewing done in garment industries. Since its invention, it has greatly improved the
efficiency and productivity of the fabric, garment and needle industries. The different parts of a
sewing machine and its functions help the Operator to know the functioning of a sewing
machine. There are different types of sewing machine used in the manufacturing of garments and
other articles, but here in this Unit, we will study only single needle lock stitch machine.
A sewing machine controls the fabric with feeding devices and forms a perfect stitch to join the
fabrics. It has various parts and attachments, each of which have their own importance and use.
There are mainly two categories of sewing machines that is, domestic sewing machine and
industrial sewing machine.
A Sewing Machine Operator should have the knowledge and skills to operate the different types
of sewing machine. The Operator should know about the various operations of the sewing
machine, its parts, heir functions, its attachments and the terms related to stitching. Some of the
common and important terms are explained in this Unit.
Before the invention of a useable machine for sewing, everything was sewn by hand. Many early
efforts tried to replicate this hand sewing method but were mostly a failure. It looked to
embroidery, where a needle was used to produce decorative stitches but not for joining the
fabrics. The final look of any garment or article depends on how the different components are
attached together by sewing. Any variation in sewing leads to a defective material. Thus, sewing
must be done with caution.
Sewing can be broadly classified in two categories— hand sewing and machine sewing. Hand
sewing may be used for temporary purposes or sometimes, it may be used for some special
purposes like hemming, buttonhole making, blanket stitch, etc. Here in this session, our main
focus is on the sewing machine. The basic thought behind sewing machines is to mechanically
stitch two or more pieces of material—mainly fabric, together using thread and a needle. Sewing
machines reduce the amount of manual sewing in preparing a garment or any other article.
Sewing machines help the operator in getting the work done quicker, with greater accuracy and
much more consistently.
 BASIC SEWING TOOLS
1. Sewing scissors
When you’re cutting fabric, you’ll want to have one or two sharp pairs of scissors that are
designated for cutting fabric only. This will leave you with the smoothest cuts. If you use your
fabric shears to cut paper or other items, it can quickly dull the blades. Trust us on this one! Keep
another pair in the junk drawer for random tasks, and hide the fabric shears in your sewing kit.
You can invest in a larger pair for quickly cutting out clothing patterns and a smaller pair with a
share point for getting into tight spaces.

2. Hand-sewing needles
Pick up a pack of needles meant for sewing by hand. You’ll likely find an assortment of needle
sizes and widths, which can accommodate sewing through different types of fabric. Basic sewing
kits sometimes come with a needle threaded, but you can also look for a pack of self-threading
needles—the eye of the needle has a special opening to make it easier to insert the thread.

3. Sewing machine needles

Though there are many types of needles for sewing machines, we recommend that beginner
sewists keep some universal needles on hand. These are useful for a variety of sewing tasks,
from piecing a quilt top to finishing a hem. We like Schmitz brand needles, unless your sewing
machine manual suggests using a certain kind. Other types of sewing machine needles include
denim, quilting, embroidery, ballpoint, leather, microtex/sharp, stretch, and topstitch. These are
each useful in their own ways when working with different types of fabric and thread in certain
projects.

4. Seam ripper
Basic sewing kits usually include a small seam ripper, but these can easily be misplaced. If you
want to tear out your stitches with ease, you can invest in a larger, ergonomic seam ripper. The
wider handle makes it easier to hold and quicker to spot when you need it.

5. Tape measure
A ribbon useful for taking measurements, a standard tape measure is usually 15 to 50 feet long
and shows both inches and centimeters. This flexible tape is ideal to use when taking body
measurements for garment fitting.

6. Sewing pins or clips

Sewing pins are useful for keeping two pieces of fabric together while you sew. You can choose
whatever kind is easiest for you—ball point pins, flat head pins, or flower head pins are some
common options. Binding clips, such as the colorful plastic kind called Wonder Clips, are useful
for a variety of sewing tasks. For instance, you may use clips to hold the lining of a tote bag in
place prior to sewing.

7. Rotary cutter, cutting mat & ruler

This handy trio goes together like bread, peanut butter, and jelly! A rotary cutter looks like a
pizza cutter and comes with changeable blades for cutting fabric quickly and easily. The 45mm
size is the most common. Look for a double-sided, self-healing cutting mat with grid lines in a
versatile size, like 18” x 24”, or larger if you’d like. A clear 6” x 24” acrylic ruler is useful for
cutting yardage. You can buy them in many sizes, however.
8. Marking tools
Tailor’s chalk is used to make temporary marks on fabric, for instance a garment that is being
altered. A tracing wheel is also useful for garment makers; it easily rolls across sewing patterns
(the tissue paper kind) and makes dotted perforations in the fabric underneath; this is a way of
transferring a clothing pattern without first cutting it out. Finally, a disappearing fabric marker
or pen can be used to temporarily draw on fabric, which is useful if you need to match the center
points of two pieces, for instance.

9. Safety pins
Unlike straight pins, safety pins are able to be fully closed, making them useful in a variety of
ways. They can be used to baste together the layers of a quilt (backing, batting, and quilt top)
before you stitch them together. Safety pins are also useful for turning sewn strips right side out,
such as for bag handles. You can also put a safety pin on a piece of elastic to easily feed it
through a casing, such as one found at the top of an elastic-waist skirt.

10. Iron
Having a good iron near your sewing space is always helpful! You can use an iron to press seams
and make them more crisp. An iron is also helpful for adhering interfacing to the back of fabric,
to make it more stiff. Do your best to keep the iron plate from getting dirty! If you are using
interfacing or fusible web, always place a pressing cloth (any scrap fabric will do) between your
iron and the object to discourage adhesive from burning onto the iron plate. Also, keep an
ironing board nearby, and never iron on your cutting mat or it will melt.

11. Thread
Spools of thread come in many colors, spool sizes, and thread weights (or thickness). Did you
know that there are different types of fibers? Look for an all-purpose thread, which is good for
most projects on your sewing machine and hand sewing. This is usually a medium weight and
made from cotton, polyester, or both. Depending on your project, the instructions might also call
for monofilament (clear) thread, metallic or embroidery thread (rayon material used for
decorative machine stitching), elastic thread (used for gathering or shirring), or heavy-duty
thread (used for sewing heavier fabrics like canvas, denim, or duck cloth).

12. Pin cushion

Whether you stick with the traditional tomato pin cushion, a magnetic dish, or a different type,
we think you’ll want to have this notion close by for stashing your sewing pins. You can even
make your own pin cushion and fill it with rice or plastic beads.

13. Elastic
A number of sewing projects call for elastic. Elastic is stretchy ribbon that comes in a variety of
widths. It can be added to clothing and crafts; for example, it can be added to a child’s headband
to make it stretchable.
14. Bobbins
Your sewing machine probably came with some metal or clear, plastic bobbins. You can buy
additional bobbins at the craft store. Make sure your read your sewing manual and buy the same
kind your machine uses! Pre-wound bobbins can save you time because they are already loaded
up with all-purpose white or colored thread.

15. Buttons
Buttons can be used for closures on clothing or bags or as embellishments in hand embroidery.
They come in a wide variety of styles of sizes, and may be made from plastic or metal. Look for
unique buttons at antique stores, garage sales, and junk drawers! You can keep them in a glass
jar near your sewing space so you always have an assortment handy for your next craft.
 Basics of Pattern Making
The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most important factor
leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into the original
pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate
locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good customized fit is
dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual
customer. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the
success of ready-to-wear clothing.

A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two
dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern
making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben
and Ward).

What are the Methods of Pattern Making?

Pattern making involves three main methods:

 Drafting
 Draping
 Flat paper patternmaking

1. Drafting
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a
person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances
are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to
create basic, foundation or design patterns.

2. Draping

It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its
shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used
as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment
comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect
of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it
is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.

3. Flat Pattern Making

It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body
form. A slope is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the
body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoba and Ward). Five basic pattern
pieces are used for women’s clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back
with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as
fashion changes frequently women’s styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopes are then
manipulated to create fashions.

A basic slope has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It has
no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure
of a slopes should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good pattern making,
accurate measurements are of utmost importance. The flat patternmaking method is widely used
in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate (Aldrich).

Pattern Making in Today's World

Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the computers. Now-a-days
different soft wares are available in the market to meet the needs of the manufacturers. The
different software used are Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech , OptiTex etc. This software’s has made the
job of the Pattern master easier. They have made the process of pattern making more economical
and less time consuming.

Pattern-making software enables you to input your measurements and draft out a pattern. These
soft wares draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically, eliminating much fitting trial and
error in the sewing room.

A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these soft wares. An
individual's measurements are collected from 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to
create a virtual 3D model of the individual's body. The 3D to 2D software allows the user to
define a garment surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined,
the application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format.
1. Arm
2. Balance Wheel/Hand Wheel
3. Bed
4. Bobbin
5. Bobbin Case
6. Bobbin Cover
7. Bobbin Winder
8. Face Plate
9. Feed Dogs
10. Head
11. Needle
12. Needle bar
13. Needle Clamp
 14. Pattern/Stitch selector
15. Presser Foot
16. Presser Foot Lever
17. Reverse Lever
18. Slide Plate
19. Spool Pin
20. Spool pin for bobbin winding
21. Stitch regulator
22. Take up Lever
23. Tension Disc
24. Thread Cutter
25. Thread Guide
26. Throat Plate or Needle Plate

Functions of the upper parts of sewing machine are given below:

1. Functions of the upper parts of sewing machine are given below:

1. Arm: Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the needle.

2. Balance Wheel/Hand Wheel: Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion. It is used to
manually raise and lower the needle. This wheel is driven by the motor, but may be turned by
hand to adjust sewing needle height. The wheel located on the right side of the sewing machine.

Fig: Balance Wheel

3.Bed: Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is mounted,
and the shuttle and lower thread are placed. The role of this part is to stabilize the machine to rest
in a permanent place.

4. Bobbin Case: The bobbin case is where the bobbin lives. It is a device which hold the bobbin
and provides tension to the lower thread. As the needle thread is pulled around bobbin case, it
wraps around the bobbin thread, and pulls it up through the needle plate.

Fig: Bobbin Case

5. Bobbin Cover: It covers the bobbin and bobbin case in the machine.

6. Bobbin Winder: Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread. A simple
mechanism used for winding thread on the bobbin. During bobbin winding should keep medium
speed. If it is faster then can stretch the thread out or break.

Fig: Bobbin Winder

7. Bobbin: Low spool that provides the lower thread. A stitch is formed by looping the bobbin
thread and the needle thread together.

Fig: Bobbin

8. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points on the needle bar,
presser bar and take-up lever.

9. Feed Dogs: The feed dogs are little pieces of textured metal that move the fabric during
sewing.

Fig: Feed Dog

10. Head: The complete sewing machine without cabinet or carry case.

11. Needle bar: Needle bar is a steel rod to keep the needle at one end with the help of a clamp.
Its main function is to give motion to the needle.

12. Needle Clamp: Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle. It holds the needle in its actual
place.

Fig: Needle Clamp

13. Needle: It is a very fine slender piece of metal with a point at one end and a hole or eye for
thread at the other. Needle is used to form a stitch in the garments.
 Fig: Needle

14. Pattern/Stitch selector: It determines the stitch type such as straight stitches or an
embroidery stitch or zig-zag.

15. Presser Foot: Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing. Presser foot attach to the
machine shank, which is either “High”, “Low”, or “Slant”. Attach the appropriate presser foot
for the selected stitching.

Fig: Pressure foot

16. Pressure Foot Lever/Lifter: The primary function of this part is to raise or lower the presser
foot. Lowering the foot engages the tension discs around the thread. You can control how much
pressure the presser foot exerts by using the machine’s pressure adjustment.

17. Reverse Lever: The liver works to depress the lever which enables the mechanism to move
backward or in reverse.

18. Slide Plate: Slide plate is a movable rectangle plate that covers the bobbin case. This
facilitates the removal of the bobbin case without lifting the machine.

19. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of bobbin
winding.
20. Spool pin: It is situated in top of the sewing machine. Main function of spool pin is to hold
thread packages. It can be horizontal or vertical in place.

Fig: Spool pin

21. Stitch regulator: It controls the length and width of the stitches on the fabric. This
determines how wide or narrow you want your stitch. And how length of stitch you want.

22. Take up Lever: The take-up lever is an important part of threading the sewing machine and
knowing the upward position of your sewing machine needle. This lever moves up and down
with the needle and keeps the tension correct.

Fig: Take up Lever

23. Tension Disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing each other.
The thread passes between the two. Tension disc controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.

24. Thread Cutter: Many modern machines have a tiny blade attached to the left side of the
machine to conveniently cut thread tails instead of looking for scissors after every seam. It is
kept built-in the machine. It’s usually located behind the needle.

25. Thread Guide: It keeps the thread in position and guide the thread from the spool to the
needle.

26. Throat Plate or Needle Plate: It is a semi-circular disc plate. This metal plate covers the
feed dogs and bobbin casing. It typically has markings that can be used to guide the fabric
through at a specific seam allowance. The etching help keep seams straight.

Lower parts of sewing machine:

Lower parts of sewing machine are point out below with alphabetically:

Fig: Lower parts of sewing machine

Functions of the upper parts of sewing machine are given below:

1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
 3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle or Foot Pedal is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through the
pitman rod. It regulates the starting, running, and stopping of the machine
8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.

Working principles of single needle

Step I: Fill your bobbin with thread: Filling the bobbin with the thread is one of the first steps in
setting up the brother sewing machine. One can wind thread on the sewing machine manually by
hand but it can take longer time and the same can be easily done in less time by using the bobbin
winding feature on the machine. One has to follow few steps to wind the bobbin with thread
using the sewing machine. The steps are given below step by step with visuals for reference.

1. Once, the thread spool is ready, pull the spool pin, by popping the pin up
2. Put the thread on the top of the pin
3. Once the thread is popped in the pin, run the thread out and through the front of the
thread guide and through the back and insert it in the bobbin with hand. Once thread is
inserted into the bobbin, push the bobbin on the pin in front of thread spool and pull some
thread out of the bobbin. Also, push the bobbin against the neighboring rotating pin to
enable machine to fill bobbin.
4. Once the bobbin is in place, the pedal can be pushed and the thread will automatically fill
in the bobbin. This completes the entire thread winding process on the bobbin.

Step II: Threading the machine on the top:

The next biggest step in the setting up of machine is threading the top side. The thread is
taken from the thread pool and taken through the thread guide and taken down through a
slot in the front face of the machine and taken up to insert it inside the metal loop at the
top. Once inserted in the loop, the thread is brought down and inserted in the needle.
 Once the thread is inserted in the needle, it completes the top thread set up and now one
has to set up the bottom thread using the bobbin.

Step III: Setting up the bobbin thread in the bottom of the machine

The bobbin is slacked with some thread on the left hand side and the bobbin door is pop
opened to place it inside the cavity. The bobbin is put inside the cavity and the thread is
taken through a small opening in the front of the cavity. Later, the thread is taken out
through a small rectangular opening in the cavity and the plastic door can be closed.
These steps are pictorially shown below.

Step IV: Pulling the bottom thread with the needle

Once the top and bottom thread is set up, the needle is used to pull the bottom thread
from the bobbin and take them behind and that signals the readiness of the machine for
sewing. When the bottom thread comes up, the threads can be separated and taken to the
back side of the machine. This completes the setting up steps for the sewing machine.
The machine is now ready to be used for sewing.

Overlock Machines

An overlock sewing machine uses multiple threads to seam a fabric while also covering its raw
edges. This machine can be used for both construction and finishing and can use as many as two
to eight threads – but most techniques require three to four.

These machines are designed to stitch over the edge of fabric pieces to create a neat edge that
will not fray. An overlock sewing machine will typically cut the edges of the fabric as it is fed
through, though some do not have cutters. They run at high speeds and are used industrially for
edging, hemming and seaming a variety of products.

The types of stitches overlock machines produce depend on the number of threads they use, such
as in the following formations:

• One-thread – end-to-end seaming

• Two-thread – edging and seaming

• Three-thread – creating hems, finishing edges etc.

• Four-thread – decorative edging and finishing

• Five-thread – creates a very strong seam

These machines will help give your products a more finished, professional look

Fig Overlock Machines

At the heart of an overlock machine are a set of specialized needles, loopers, and knives that work
together to create the distinctive overlock stitch. Most domestic overlock machines consist of
between three to five needles, while industrial models can have a maximum of eight needles for
increased speed and productivity.
The needles on an overlock machine are smaller and more closely spaced than those on a standard
sewing machine. This affords them the ability to sew close to the edge of the fabric without the risk
of skipping stitches. The loopers, which serve as thread-carrying devices, interlock the needle
threads to form the overlock stitch. Overlock machines are equipped with a set of small, sharp
knives that serve the purpose of trimming the fabric edge as it is being sewn, ensuring a neat and
even finish.
Overlock Stitch Formation
The creation of an overlock stitch is distinct from a traditional straight stitch. The intricate dance of
needles, loopers, and knives is performed in synchronization.
1. The fabric is positioned beneath the presser foot with the edge aligned with the knife edge. As the
machine begins stitching, the knife cuts a small section of the fabric edge.
2. The needle(s) penetrate the fabric, resulting in a loop of thread on the underside. The lower looper
then captures the loop and interlocks it with the upper looper.
3. The upper looper then wraps the thread around the edge of the fabric, resulting in the formation of
the overlock stitch over stitch. This process repeats itself with each subsequent stitch, resulting in a
continuous series of interlocking stitches along the fabric edge.
4. The trimmed fabric edge is simultaneously fed through the machine, with the overlock stitches
anchoring and finishing the raw edge.
The overlock stitch produced by specialized machines possesses several key advantages over a
standard straight stitch. Primarily, the interlocking thread structure creates an exceptionally strong
and durable seam that is resistant to fraying or unraveling. This makes overlock stitching ideal for
garments, home décor items, and other products that need to withstand frequent use and washing.
Applications of Overlock Machines
Due to their exceptional capabilities, overlock sewing machines have become an indispensable
tool in a wide range of sewing applications. Presented below are some of the most prevalent uses.
◆Garment Construction: The use of overlockers is imperative for the stitching of clothing, as they
are capable of efficiently finishing seams, hems, and edges to produce a polished, durable final
product. They are particularly useful for working with knitted fabrics.
◆Home Décor: From curtains and upholstery to tablecloths and napkins, overlock machines allow
home sewers to create professional-looking home furnishings with ease.
◆Activewear: The stretchy, flexible nature of the overlock stitch makes it ideal for constructing
athletic wear, sportswear, and other items that require mobility with the body.

◆Industrial Textile Production: In commercial and industrial settings, high-speed overlock

machines are used to produce substantial quantities of finished textile products such as apparel,
linens, and more efficiently.
◆Quilting and Crafting: Quilters and other crafters often utilize overlockers to neaten up the edges
of their projects, including quilts and blankets , bags, and accessories.
Button Hole Machine: Parts, Specification and Working Principle
Introduction:
There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such as
Button Attaching machine, Bartack sewing machine etc. This type of machines works in
a cycle and so these are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on a type of
machine that is Button hole machine. For example if you are sewing a shirt and need to
make a few button holes then a buttonhole attachment (or built in button hole mode of a
general purpose machine) would work fine, but for production work in a clothing factory
a special purpose industrial buttonhole machine would be much faster and more reliable.

Fig button hole machine

Objectives:

1. To know about the parts of button hole machine.

2. To know about the thread path of buttonhole machine.
3. To draw the thread path diagram of button holing machine.
 4. To know the working principle of button holing machine.
5. To know the types of needle, its no, size, SPM, group, TPI of the machine.
6. To know about the buttonhole sewing machine.

Specification of buttonhole machine:

 Brand : JUKI
 Model : LBH/781
 Group : Lock stitch
 Needle use : DPX5
 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 21
 SPM : 3000-3600
 TPH : 6-7 inch
 Pressure : 123

Different parts of button hole machine:

1. Bobbin winding
2. Bobbin winding spring tensioner
3. Back stitch lever
4. Driver wheel
5. Driven wheel
6. Spring tensioner post box
7. Thread guide
8. Knife lever
9. Thread take-up lever
10. Needle
11. Knife
12. Wiper
13. Pressure feed guide
14. Throat plate
15. Bobbin
 16. Bobbin case

Main adjustment points of buttonhole machine:

1. Thread.
2. Tensioner.
3. Needle.
4. Pressure feed.
5. Stitch density.
6. Looper.

Working principle of button hole machine:

This machine works in cyclic system i.e. during pressing switch after sewing one complete
button hole the machine will stop. In fully automatic button hole machine more than one i.e. pre-
selected no. of button holes can be sewn in pre-selected distance. In this system no mark is
needed on cloth for button hole. In buttonhole machine there is system to make big or small
button hole and also to increase or decrease the stitch density. Usually lock stitch or chain stitch
is used here. Button hole can be made before or after sewing. Both system has some advantage
and disadvantage. If hole is made before then the cut edge is closed in sewing and the button
hole is seen very good and clean. But the disadvantage is that after starting sewing there is no
chance to change the button hole place and cut edge disturbs to sew well due to flagging. But
disadvantage is thread of cloth is come out along the sewing line of button hole that looks very
bad. Usually for dense woven and coarse cloth before sewing, for thin cloth after sewing button
hole is made.
 Fig : Diagram and thread path of Button Hole machine

Where,
A = Cone package
B = Guide
C = Guide
D = Spring box tensioner
E = Guide
F = Guide
G = Tensioner
H = Thread cutting ever
I = Take up lever
J = Trimming lever
K = Guide
L = Guide
M = Throat plate
N = Cutting knife
Uses of buttonhole machine:

1. To make button hole in different apparels.

2. Sewing of button hole.

Conclusion:
Buttonhole sewing machine cannot be used for normal purpose. But for making a
complete garment its importance cannot be denied. It is used for making button hole in different
garments. These machines make button holes at high speed and with greater precision then with
a buttonhole attachment on a sewing machine. Some machines can run at 4000 SPM or greater.
Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing
may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our
instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.

Button Attaching Machine: Features, Parts and Specification

Introduction:
There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such
as bartack machine, button hole making machine etc. This type of machines works in a
cycle and so these are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of
machine that is button attaching machine. Button sewing machine is a special type of
machine which is used in apparel industries to attach button so it is called button
attaching machine.
 Fig: Button attaching machine

A button attaching machine is used to sew the button in the garment without damaging
it. Various types of buttons like a button with two holes, four holes or shank could be sewn on
this machine by making simple adjustments. The sewing action comprises a series of parallel
stitches whose length is equal to the distance between the centers of the holes. The needle has
only vertical movement but the button moves sideways by means of the button clamp for
stitching. A hopper feed is a special attachment that automatically feeds the button to the clamp
of the needle point of the machine. With this attachment, the button and needle are automatically
positioned and the threads are clipped. Button attaching machine is ideal for stitching Shirts, T-
shirts, and Uniforms etc. It is highly applicable in number of different garment applications.

Objectives:

1. To know about the machine parts.

2. To know about the thread path.

Features of button attaching machine:

In garment sewing, button attaching machines is used because huge amount of apparel is made
here. Attaching or sewing button by hand is time consuming. That’s why button attaching
machine is used in garment industry.

The features of button sewing machine:

 It is a simple automatic machine.

 Button positioning can be automatic.
 Sewing is according to the hole in button and may be cross or parallel.
 Button can be sewn using lock stitch or chain stitch.
 Automatic feeding of the shirt buttons
 Buttons with 2 holes, 4 holes or shanks can be sewn on the same machine.
 Generally the needle has a vertical movement only.
 Button is moved from side to side by the button clamp.
 Machine has a number of stitches. i.e. 16, 24 or 32 are adjusted.

Specification:

 Brand: JUKI
 Model: MB-377
 Group: Chain stitch
 Needle no: 1
 Needle use: TQX1
 Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
 SPM: 1200-1500
 TPI: Per pressure 64
 Adjustment: Thread, tension, needle & button

Different parts:

1. Thread stand
2. Thread guide
3. Disc type tensioner
4. Thread guides
 5. Thread take-up lever
6. Thread guide
7. Needle
8. Clamp

Description:
There are different types of button attaching machine and different types of clamps are needed
for different types and sizes of buttons. Especially there may two or three holes in the button.
Again button of three holes may be attached by parallel or cross sewing. Buttons may be of
different types specially there may be shank below the button or during sewing shank may be
made by thread. For sewing button lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch machine may be used.
When using chain stitch the sewing looks neat below the button but the safety of stitch is low
that is the button may be fall out opening the sewing. This will not happen when used lock stitch
but it is not as neat as chain stitch. In automatic machine by a hopper and pipe button is fed in
button clamp in auto system and button is positioned. Moreover a predetermined number buttons
can be attached in a cycle in a predetermined distant in a dress.

Conclusion:
Button attaching machine works for stitching shirt buttons in a cycle and so these are also called
simple auto machine. This type of machine cannot be used for normal purpose. But for making a
complete garment their importance cannot be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is
necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special
thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my
future life.

IRON STEAMING

Cautions of the first use:

1. The iron been greased, and as a result, the iron may slightly smoke when switched on for the
first time. After a short while, this will cease.

2. Before using for the first time, remove any sticker or protective foil from the soleplate. Clean
the soleplate with a soft cloth.

3. Keep the soleplate smooth; avoid hard contact with metal objects (such as clothes rack, button
and slide fastener)

4. Pure woolen fabrics (100% wool) may be pressed with the iron set to a steam position.
Preferably set the steam regulator to strong position, and use a dry pressing cloth.

IMAGE IRRON

Component Names

1. Power Indicator light 2. Thermostat control

3. ‘Clean out’ button 4. Transparent water tank

5. Soleplate 6. Power supply cord

7. Power cord bushing 8. Hot-steam button

9. Spray button 10. Steam regulator

11. Water filling Hole 12. Spray nozzle. 13. Measuring cup

PROCEDURES OF IRON STEAMING

1. Set the steam regulator to 0(=no steam) (only for steam iron).

2. Hold the iron by hand and slant the iron with 45°down.

3. Fill the water in the box through the Water-Filling Hole, if the water is too hard, it is advisable
to use distilled water, do not put the chemically water in the water reservoir.

4. Wipe off the water over the box; pour out the remaining water after use.

Dry Ironing:

1. Before running the iron, please classify the clothes as per its washing label, as it will be
quicker for the iron to heat up that to cool, the clothes (such as synthetic fabric, silk etc.) with
lower ironing temperature shall be ironed firstly, and then iron the clothes(such as wool, cotton
and linen etc.)with higher temperature.

2. Stand the iron on its end, and turn the thermostat dial to the MIN position.

3. Plug in the iron and select the temperature by turning the thermostat dial. If there is water in
the reservoir, turn the steam regulator to OFF position. Wait until the indicator light goes off
showing that the required temperature has been reached.

Steam Ironing:

1. Fill water in the iron as per the water-filling methods.

2. Plug the appliance in the socket.

3. If only set thermostat dial to MAX position as per the temperature indicator, steam iron will be
available, otherwise water may leak from the soleplate.

4. It indicates that the temperature has been ready until the indicator light goes off.
5. Set the steam regulator correctly, increase the steam output by rotating the steam regulator
anticlockwise. Otherwise decrease. Caution: Synthetic Fabric, Nylon, Synthetic Silk and Silk
cannot use the steam iron. Otherwise it will damage the finish of surface.

Burst of Steam:

This function will be able to provide more steam to remove stubborn creases.

1. Set the thermostat dial button to MAX until the indicator light goes off.

2. Release the steam by pressing the steam button.

3. Wait for several minutes and let the steam penetrate through the fabric, and then release more
steam through pressing this buttons again.

Note:

1. There should be 3-5 seconds rest between two times of pressing Steam Button in order to
obtain the best steaming result.

2. Fill the water to the MAX position before using this function.

3. In order to prevent the water leaking from soleplate , please do not press the steam button
continuously with more than 5 seconds.

Spraying Methods:

1. Fill the water in the iron as per water-filling methods.

2. Press water spray button.

3. Note: No matter what steam ironing of dry ironing is, spray will always be available in any
case.

Type of Fabric and Thermostat Dial Form:

See the table below for the correct temperature settings:

  Always start by ironing fabrics that require a low temperature. Then iron fabrics that require a
higher temperature.

• When setting the iron to a lower setting temperature, wait until the temperature indication light turns
back on. Once the set temperature has been reached, the light will turn off and you can continue
ironing. This ensures that the appliance’s temperature is not too high.

• For fabrics made from mixed fibres, adjust the iron’s temperature setting for the most delicate fibre.

• If using the appliance after a long period of disuse, first carry out the procedure described in ‘First
Use’.

• If using starch, clean the soleplate regularly with a soft, damp cloth to prevent scale buildup.

Caution: If the fabric consists of various kinds of fibers, always select the lowest ironing
temperature of the composition of those fibers.

After Ironing:

To extend the working life of the iron, whenever you finish ironing, you are recommended to
empty the reservoir as follows:

Unplug from the mains socket. Empty the iron. Shake it lightly above a sink. To dry the
remaining moisture, turn the iron on again with the thermostat dial in the MAX position with
steam regulator in MAX position until Power Indicator Light goes off. Unplug from the mains
socket and allow cooling. Clean the plate with a dry cloth as traces of moisture could mark it.
Cleaning and Maintenance:

Before cleaning, remove the plug from the socket and allow the iron to cool down sufficiently.

1. Wipe off the soleplate with a damp cloth and a non-abrasive (liquid) cleaner.

2. If the fiber is adhered to the soleplate, use a damp cloth with vinegar to wipe off the soleplate.

3. Never use strong acid or alkali in order to avoid damaging the soleplate.

4. If the scale blocks the steam hole, please remove the scale with toothpick; do not damage the
surface of soleplate.

5. Stand the iron on the end and let it cool down sufficiently, and meantime pour any remaining
water out of the box, set the steam regulator to positon"0".