MODULE

4 Install and Assemble Plumbing Fixtures

On completion of this learning outcome you should be able to:

Learning Competencies:
4.1 Use pipes and fittings in accordance with the work plan
4.2 Install plumbing fixtures according to the rough-in specifications
4.3 Use tools, materials, and equipment in accordance with the job
specifications
4.4 Use appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
4.5 Perform proper housekeeping (5S)

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 INTRODUCTION

Plumbing is defined as the art and science of installing pipes, fixtures

and apparatus in buildings to convey and supply water in the buildings and to
discharge of waste water and other liquids, gases and other substances out of
buildings in safe, orderly, healthy and sanitary way to ensure the health and
sanitation of life and property.
The word Plumber is the title given to a person who is skilled worker in
the field of sanitation, who fits and repairs the pipes and fixtures of a water
system. It was derived from the ancient Roman word Plumbarius which was
taken from Latin word Plumbum.
Plumbarius refers to an individual who worked in the sanitary field of
ancient Rome. Plumbum on the other hand, meant lead. A metal used as
plumbing material by the Romans, preferred for its twin properties of
malleability and resistant to acid.
Plumbing has two main objectives
1. To supply water to different parts of the building.
2. To remove and discharge human wastes and other substances out of the
building into the public sewer or septic tank.

Conditions for an effective water supply in building

1. To provide sufficient amount of water to supply each fixture.
2. To prevent back flow of used water into the water supply system.

The drainage system should accomplish the following:

1. Fast removal of the waste with a minimum probability of leakage and
stoppage of drains.
2. To prevent the entry of house vermin and obnoxious gases into the
house from the piping system.

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Definition and Terms
1. Pipe – is a cylindrical conduit or conductor conforming to the particular
dimensions commonly known as “pipe size” and is denoted by its
interior diameter or I.D.
2. Plumbing – is the art and technique of installing pipes, fixtures and
other apparatuses in buildings for bringing in the supply, liquids,
substances and/or ingredients and removing them; and such water,
liquid and other carried wastes hazardous to health, sanitation, life,
property; also the pipes and fixtures after installation i.e., the plumbing
system
3. Plumbing appliance – is any one of a special class of device or
equipment intended to perform a special plumbing function. Its
operation and/or control may be dependent upon one or more energized
components, such as motors, controls, heating elements and pressure-
temperature-sensing elements. Such device or equipment may operate
automatically through one or more of the following actions; a time cycle,
a temperature range, a pressure range, a measured volume or weight; or
the device or equipment may be manually adjusted or controlled by the
user or operator.
4. Plumbing appurtenance – is a manufactured device or a prefabricated
assembly or an on-the-job assembly of component parts, and serve as
adjunct to the basic piping system and plumbing fixtures. An
appurtenance demands no additional water supply nor does it add any
discharge load to fixture or the drainage system. It performs some useful
functions in the operation, maintenance, servicing, economy or safety of
the plumbing system
5. Plumbing fixtures – are approved-type installed receptacles, devices or
appliances supplied with water or receive liquid or liquid-borne wastes
and discharge such wastes into the drainage system to which they may
be directly or indirectly connected. Industrial or commercial tanks, vats
and similar processing equipment are not plumbing system fixtures, but
may be connected to or discharged into approved traps or plumbing
fixtures as provided for in this Code
6. Plumbing system – includes all potable water supply and distribution
pipes, all plumbing fixtures and traps, all sanitary and storm drainage
systems; vent pipes, roof drains, leaders and downspouts; and all
building drains and sewers, including their respective joints and
connections; devices, receptacles, and appurtenances within the
property; water lines in the premises; potable , tap, hot and chilled
water pipings; potable water treating or using equipment; fuel gas
piping; water heaters and vents for same TR PLUMBING NC II
(Amended) Promulgated October 2014 Page 84b.
7. Plumbing unit – is a minimum standard quantity of plumbing fixtures
that discharge wastes into a plumbing installation including; one (1)
water meter, one (1) water closet, one (1) lavatory, one (1) shower head
and drain for a bathtub or shower stall, one (1) kitchen sink, one (1)
laundry tray and three (3) floor drains and four (4) faucets/hose bibb.
8. Potable water – is a water satisfactory for drinking, culinary and
domestic purposes and meets the requirements of the Philippine
National Standards for Drinking Water.

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 9. Pressure – is the normal force exerted by a homogenous liquid or gas,
per unit of area on the wall of the container.
10. Un-plasticized Polyvinyl Chloride Conduit (uPVC) - is a non-
metallic conduit into which electrical wire may be drawn and with an
outside diameter sufficiently different from that of metallic conduit.
11. Complex Plumbing - Covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes
in installing/assembling plumbing installation in all types of building
occupancy that requires special and extra ordinary piping system.
12. Multiple Plumbing System - a battery of fixture; composed of two
or more system connections.
13. Centralized Plumbing Hot water - is a system that supplies or
distribute hot water to multiple fixtures that requires hot water using
storage type water heater and boilers.
14. High-rise building - multi-storey building minimum of 15 storey
and above.
15. Medium-rise building - multi - level storey building from ground
floor to 15 story building.

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What do you already know?
Pre-Assessment

Multiple Choice: Write only the letter of your chosen answer. Write it before
the number space given below.

________ 1. It is the installation of all parts of the plumbing system that can be
completed prior to the installation of the fixtures.
A. Rough-in C. Ventilation
B. Finishing D. Sanitary

________ 2. This is type of fixture that a water-flushed plumbing designed to

receive/convey organic body waste to the plumbing system
A. Lavatory C. Water Closet
B. Bath Tub D. Shower

________ 3. It used to connect outside of the building to the sanitary building

sewer.
A. Drainage Piping C. Sewerage
B. Manhole D. Layout

________ 4. An industry term for that sub-category of plumbing fixtures

consisting of tap valves, also called water taps or faucets and their
accessories, such as water spouts and shower heads.

A. Tapware C. Closet
B. B. Bidet D. Tub

________ 5. It is a bowl-shaped plumbing fixture used for

washing hands, dishwashing, and other purposes.
A. Sink C. Urinal
B. Lavatory D. Tub

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What do you need to know?
Read the Information Sheet 4 very well then find out how much you can remember and
how much you learned by doing the Self-check 4.

INFROMATION SHEET # 4
Install and Assemble Single Plumbing Unit

PLUMBING FIXTURES
A plumbing fixture is an exchangeable device which can be connected
to an existing plumbing system to deliver and drain away water but which is
also configured to enable a particular use. Are also devices that provide a
supply of water and its disposal.

The most common plumbing fixtures are:

 Bathtubs
 Bidets
 Channel drains (also called trench drains)
 Drinking fountains
 Hose bibbs (connections for water hoses)
 Kitchen sinks
 Lavatories (also called bathroom sinks)
 Showers
 Tapware - an industry term for that sub-category of plumbing fixtures
consisting of tap valves, also called water taps or faucets and their
accessories, such as water spouts and shower heads.
 Terminal valves for dishwashers, ice makers, humidifiers, etc.
 Urinals
 Utility sinks
 Water closets- (known as toilets in the

 SINK
Also- known by other names
including sinker, washbowl, hand basin, wash
basin, and simply basin – is a bowl-
shaped plumbing fixture used for
washing hands, dishwashing, and other
purposes. Sinks have taps (faucets) that supply
hot and cold water and may include a spray
feature to be used for faster rinsing. They also
include a drain to remove used water; this drain
may itself include a strainer and/or shut-off device and an overflow-
prevention device. Sinks may also have an integrated soap dispenser. Many
sinks, especially in kitchens, are installed adjacent to or inside
a counter. Sink in a kitchen, used for washing dishes and preparing food.

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  FAUCET

Any device for controlling the flow of liquid from a

pipe or the like by opening or closing an orifice;
tap; cock.

 TUBS
A long plastic, metal, or ceramic container that
is filled with water so that you can sit or lie in it
to wash your whole body/ wide, open, deep.
Typically round container with a flat bottom
used for holding liquids, growing plants, etc.

 LAVATORY

A room or compartment with a toilet and

washbasin; a bathroom. A fixed bowl or basin
with running water and drainpipe for
washing.

 URINAL
Is a sanitary plumbing fixture for urination
only. Urinals are often provided in public
toilets for male users in Western countries.
They are usually used in a standing
position. Urinals can be with manual
flushing, automatic flushing, or without
flushing, as is the case for waterless
urinals. The can be arranged as single
sanitary fixtures (with or without privacy
walls). Urinals designed for females (“female
urinals”) also exist but rare. It is possible
for females to use male urinals with a
female urination device.

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  TOILET BOWL
A toilet is a piece of sanitary hardware used
for the collection or disposal of human
urine and feces. Toilets can be with or
without flushing water. They can be set up
for a sitting posture or for a squatting
posture.

 FLOOR DRAIN

A floor drain is a plumbing fixture that is

installed in the floor of a structure, mainly
designed to remove any standing water
near it. They are usually round, but can
also be square or rectangular.

 SHOWER DIVERTER

Shower diverter is the mechanism that

reroutes the water from your bathtub faucet
to your showerhead. Many shower
diverters are controlled by a pin knob that
you pull, but there are many types. Maybe
yours is turned on with a button or with a
third faucet handle between the bathtub's
hot and cold knobs.

This valve is what allows you to choose between filling your bathtub and
taking a shower. In short, it diverts water up into the showerhead
instead of coming out of the tub spout.

 WATER CLOSET

Water closet is just another name for a typical

gravity flush toilet. If you want to get detailed,
“water closet” can also be used to describe a
small room that houses a toilet. A water
closet can be great to add a little privacy to a
larger bathroom or shared mater bath.

By definition, plumbing Fixtures are receptacles intended to receive

water, liquid or water-carried waste and discharge them into the drainage

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system. The latest concept in the design of plumbing fixture is to fit the
fixture. The trend is to make the fixture an integral part of the room
decorations.
Plumbing fixtures comes in varieties of style and accessories designed to
match with the room for cosmetic reasons. Concomitant with this, it is
imperative to buy plumbing fixtures of the best quality. Best quality carries
with it the name or brand of reputable manufacturers. Quality fixtures are
especially designed and built to take a lot of abuse, and yet, expected to last
for years.
Quality is always associated with cost. But cost of this particular
construction item is always considered a good investment. Comparatively,
cheaper fixtures wear out faster than those that cost higher but last for years.

PLUMBING FIXTURES

Plumbing fixtures are receptacles intended to receive water, liquid, or

water – carried wastes and discharge them into the drainage system. Quality
fixtures are specially designed and built to make a lot of abuse yet it last for
years.

At present, plumbing fixtures comes in various styles and colors

equipped with fittings of the latest design and accessories to match with the
room for “Cosmetic reason.” The latest concept in designing plumbing fixtures
is to fit people rather than making people fit the fixture.

INSTALLATION OF PLUMBING FIXTURE

The plumber must take extra care to install the plumbing fixtures and
appliances properly because the costumer will judge the quality of
workmanship of the entire plumbing installation by its appearance, as this is
the only part of the plumbing installation that is seen.

The proper installation of the plumbing fixtures and appliances takes

place in two steps or phases: rough-in and finishing.

Rough-in (also called roughing-in or rough plumbing) is the installation of all

parts of the plumbing system that can be completed prior to the installation of
the fixtures. This includes the installation of:

1. The drainage piping.

 Within the building at the lowest level, all the drainage pipes connect to a
common horizontal pipe, the sanitary building drain that connects
outside of the building to the sanitary building sewer.
 These connections may include trap arms, fixture drains, branches and
soil or waste stacks.

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 The sanitary building drain by definition terminates at the most upstream
soil or waste stack, branch or fixture drain serving a water closet.
 Storm water may not drain into a sanitary building drain
 The sanitary building drain must be at least 4 inch
 Determine the load draining into each portion of the sanitary building drain
and size using Table 4.10.6.C at the appropriate grad.

Each type of plumbing fixture and appliance has its own peculiar
installation procedure. However, the following steps generally apply to the
installation of all plumbing fixtures and appliances (although not necessarily
in the order given below).

1. Uncrate and inspect the fixture and its trim for damage and or
defects.
2. Check the measurements for the waste and water supply piping
with the rough-in drawing for the fixture.
3. Attach the fixture wall or floor supports.
4. Attach the fixture trim (if necessary).
5. Hang or set the fixture.
6. Align, level, and/or plumb the fixture.
7. Secure the fixture fastener.
8. Connect the water supply and waste piping to the fixture.
9. Purge the water supply piping to relieve any air and remove any
dirt in the piping so that it will not affect the operation of the
fixture.
10. Test the water supply and waste connections.
11. Caulk or grout the fixture where it meets the wall and/or floor to
make a watertight connection that will prevent the accumulation
of dirt and make the fixture easier to clean.
12. Clean and inspect the fixture.

WATER CLOSET

A Water Closet is a water-flushed plumbing designed to receive/convey

organic body waste to the plumbing system.

Water Closet Are Classified According To:

A. Design B. Quality C. According to Shape

 Wash down  Flushes quietly.  The round type,
type  Flushes down the liquid which is intended for
 Reverse trap and waste completely. installation on the
 Siphon jet  Function efficiently limited space.
 Siphon vortex  Provide large water  The elongated type is
surface area inside the more comfortable but
bowl to prevent fouling occupies the larger
and contamination. space. Furthermore,
it is more sanitary
and easier to keep
clean.

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Water Closet /Toilet Installation:

How to Install a Toilet

Installing a new toilet is a lot easier than you may think. In fact, many
homeowners choose to remove their old toilet and replace it with a new one
without the help of a handyman or plumber. If you do decide to make
installing a toilet your new DIY project, you should know the basics. This
article will teach you how to remove your old toilet and replace it with a brand-
new one to give your bathroom a breath of fresh air.

Toilets

• The water supply is located on the left side of all toilets.

• The stop and escutcheon are installed the same for a toilet as for
other fixtures.
• The water is connected to a toilet using a tank supply.
– A tank supply is a chrome-plated soft copper tubing having a
flat end that connects the stop to the fill valve.
• The toilet is installed onto the closet (toilet) flange and sealed with a
wax ring.
• Some wax seals have a plastic accessory called a horn molded into
the wax.

Common Tools and Items Required to Install a Toilet

Qty. Tool or Item
1 Tubing cutter based on type of tank supply used (copper or flexible
tubing)
2 Adjustable wrenches or compatible sized open end wrenches
1 Adjustable pliers (channel lock or water pump type)
1 Flat head screw driver
1 Miniature hacksaw to trim bolts (standard hacksaw blade only will
suffice)
1 Tube of caulking that matches the toilet color (if required)
1 Rag to clean work area

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Toilets – Pipe Locations

1. Measure the distance from the wall to the floor bolts before removing.

2. Turn off the water off at the supply valve.

3. Flush the toilet to empty the basin and bowl.

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4. Put on heavy duty, protective, rubber gloves to guard against any harmful
bacteria that call the toilet or its surroundings home.

5. Remove any leftover water in the toilet bowl and toilet basin.

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 6. Unscrew the tank bolts that fasten the basin to the bowl.

7.

Unscrew the water supply line.

8. Using
your
legs

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 instead of your back, remove the basin by lifting it from the bowl.

9. Remove the floor bolt caps and unscrew the nuts with an adjustable
wrench.

10. Break the sealant on pedestal of the toilet by rocking the it back
and forth.

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 11. Scrape away remaining wax around the drain opening.

12. Plug the drain opening with an old rag or another implement.

13.

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 14. Fit a new wax ring around the bottom of the toilet bowl, just
around its drainage hole.

15. Ensure flange is tight to floor.

16. Lift
and place the toilet bowl over the anchor bolts protruding from the
floor.

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17. Once the anchor bolts fit snugly inside the floor bolt openings, rock the
bowl from side to side in order to create a seal on the toilet drainage hole.

18. Insert the bolts through the tank and base, then tighten lightly by hand.

19. Insert

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20. Tighten the floor bolts gradually with an adjustable wrench until secure.

21. Install the decorative caps over the floor bolts.

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 22. Carefully fit the basin over the bowl, making sure the basin bolts
fit inside the bowl.

23. Reconnect the water line and turn on the water supply.

24. Caulk around the base of the toilet to ensure a good seal.

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How to Install a Body Shower

To ensure there's room to install the body shower, take off the cover plate to
expose the valve body and the water lines. Shut off the water at the main
using a curb key. Close the valves at the water heater, and turn off the power
to the water heater.

Open the hot and cold at the bathroom faucet to relieve the pressure in the
lines. Then, open the valve to let the remaining water out.

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Remove the shower arm using slip-joint pliers to loosen it first. Remove any
parts you can from the valve body (Image 1). Use a hacksaw to cut the water
line, leaving as much copper pipe as possible above the valve body (Image 2),
then cut either the hot or cold line.

Using slip-joint pliers, unscrew the old valve off the male adapter and remove
(Image 1). Install a compression fitting to replace the adapter that was just
removed from the hot or cold line (Image 2).

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Apply Teflon paste to the threads on the end of the cold and hot water line
(Image 1). Hand tighten the factory provided female adapters to the threads,
then tighten down with pliers (Image 2).

Before installing the anchors, place a piece of painter's tape over the spot
where the hole will be drilled. This helps prevent damage to the tile. Using a
drill with a tile bit, drill the hole into the tile.

Apply silicone caulk to the anchor for a good seal. Follow the manufacturer's
instructions when installing anchors. Place the anchor into the hole, then set
the screw.

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Attach the stainless steel water line to the adapters installed earlier, then
tighten with pliers (Image 1). Mount the body shower by lining up the bolts
over the keyholes on the back of the unit. Start with the top and work your
way to the bottom (Image 2).

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Tighten the nut onto the shower bolt located on the bottom of the body
shower, then tighten with pliers. Install the two side screws using a Phillips-
head screwdriver. Next, install the side panels.

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Place the shower arm into the holder, and attach the hose to the male adapter
on the unit. Connect the water lines to the female adapter on the back of the
cover plate. Put the cover plate on, then snap on the decorative plates around
the jets.

Turn on the water at the main, then turn on the water and power to the water
heater. Turn on the shower and allow the water to cycle through, then test the
temperature to ensure the anti-scald valve is working properly. Finally, install
the handle and tighten the setscrew.

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8 Simple Steps to Build A Shower

Have you ever dreamed about a new shower cabin? I have, but my first
thought connected with that job is a bunch of plumbers making a mess
throughout my house! Have you had the same problem? If yes, I can offer you
an excellent solution!

Yes, it is possible enjoying a beautiful bathroom without tolerating

jumpy plumbers around. In fact, if you do the whole job by yourself, you will
save a lot of money and learn a new skill as a bonus. Let’s do it together!

Necessary Materials And Tools

In the very beginning, you should be aware that you need adequate tools and
materials along with primary building and ceramic skills to finish the job.

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Tools

 Phillips and flathead screwdrivers

 Electric drill and drill bits
 Hand trowel
 Adjustable pliers
 Wood saw
 Ceramic saw
 Suitable screws
 Washers
 Wooden beams
 Level
 Shovel
 Stapler for wood or furniture
 Caulking gun
 Silicone bath caulk
 Tape measure
 Duct tape
 Silicone

Material

Which material you need depends on the type of shower floor you want to
build.

 New shower pan

 Sand, cement
 Mortar

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Steps To Build the Shower

First of all, you should decide if you want to buy a shower pan or you prefer
making it by yourself. Then, think about different options, such as a walk-in
shower or a curb. Either way, the procedure is the same in the very beginning.

Step 1. Measure and clean the place

Start with measuring the place where you want to install your new shower
pan. Then prepare the entire area for smooth operation by clearing all debris
from the surface. After drying the floor, you can start with real work.

Step 2. Install drainer and shower step/beam

After
deciding which type of drain for a shower you want to use, you should start
paying attention to the details. My advice is to purchase the one that is easy to

That will help you a lot if you need to put it higher or lower from the pan level.
Install the bottom drain flange and stick the duct tape over it to protect the
drain from dirt.

Now, you should make a shower step or a beam step, depending on the option
you have chosen. It’s up to you if you want to leave your shower cabin open or
to install a shower door in the end.

 Option one (shower step) – You can use the beams to make a shower
step of a suitable size. Insert them at the entrance of your shower. That
will be the only side without a wall. The best option is to place the
shower step between the horizontal studs in the future wall. Use classic
bricks to make it.
 Option two (beam step) – If you are not skillful enough with construction
work, I advise you to install a beam step. There are two solutions. You
can buy the beams, which are already cut to a suitable length, or you

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 can cut them by yourself with a circular saw. After inserting and fixating
the beams, you need to make sure they are leveled.

Step 3. Fill in the dry pan mixture

Make a dry pan mixture by combining sand and cement with a suitable
amount of water. If you decide to use mortar, you should read the instructions
on the package on how to make it.

My winning recipe is a mix of one part cement and four parts sand. You
should add water while mixing them, but avoid putting in too much of it. An
excellent dry pan mixture should be dry enough, but easy to sculpt at the
same time.

Once you are ready to fill the area around the drain, you should begin the job
from the walls to the drain. Always keep in mind that water should flow
towards the drain. Therefore, the parts closer to the wall should be
approximately 0.25 inches (6 mm) higher than the area around the drain.

When you evenly distribute the dry pan mixture, the next step is to make sure
that the surface is leveled appropriately.

It is an excellent idea to place the shower drain a bit over the level because
you need to lay the ceramic tiles around it later on. If you use an adjustable
drain, there is no need to pay attention to that detail.

Now, you need to let the material dry off at least 24 hours.

Step 4.
Lay of
shower
pan
material

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First, you should purchase shower pan materials or tarp in a construction
store. It is necessary for the prevention of water leaking. Keep in mind that the
size of that material should be at least 2 inches (5 cm) longer than a surface of
the bath curve.

That means that the stretched down material needs to protrude 2 to 4 inches
(5 – 10 cm) high above the floor level, covering the wall. Fold extra materials
nicely in the corners and tuck them into the frame or wall, if you can. A
shower pan material should go over the step as well to ensure the step beams
stay dry.

Use a stapler or screwdrivers to attach it to the frame or wall, as far as

possible from the bottom. Take care to put down the pan material without any
bumps. If necessary, level the surface one more time to check if outer parts
are 0.25 inches (6 mm) higher.

Use a scalpel to make a hole for the drain, and be highly precise. The easiest
way is to try to feel its position under your fingers. Also, cut the holes above
the screws from the drainer.

Now, insert the adjustable part of the drain and adjust it to a suitable height.
Keep in mind that you have one more layer to add, as well as tiles. For now, it
is enough to place duct tape over the drain to stop the dirt from the next step
to penetrate it.

Step 5. Make the floor smooth and flat

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Mix the dry pan mixture one more time or use mortar if you prefer. Apply the
mixture to the shower floor and repeat step 3.

Your goal is to make the floor smooth and flat. Be patient since this part of
your work is probably crucial. You need to lay the shower floor onto it, and
any unevenness or irregularity will prevent its proper placement.

A-line the drain, and always keep in mind the necessity of leaving a slight free
fall to it. Since you need to place tiles on the top, don’t forget to leave it a bit
over the surface. The best way is to measure the thickness of your tiles and
make a calculation.

In the end, you can take off the tape from the drain and leave the floor to dry
before putting tiles. After approximately 24 hours, you will get an excellent,
firm, and smooth base for the following step.

Step 6. Ceramic floor tiling

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I like this inspirational part of the job. After picking out the most beautiful
ceramic tiles for your bathroom, you should dry-fit them. That way, you will
have a clear insight into how they will look on the wall. Also, you should
measure tiles for the part around a drain hole. Mark them and cut precisely.

Now, you need to use a wet cloth to remove all the dirt from the floor and to
dry it eventually. If you place tiles over a dirty floor, they will come off over
time.
Apply tile adhesive onto the floor and apply the tiles one by one. Be careful
with using the proper amount of it in every move to avoid its drying. The dry
adhesive is not a desirable option since you will face the tiles falling off over
time. After you finish with fitting the tiles, wait for a day or two to let them
dry.

Step 7. Grout the tile floor

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Don’t forget to use tile grout and apply it between tiles. There are two
advantages of inserting tile grout. Firstly, you will prevent leaking in your
shower. Secondly, your shower pan can become so fancy, especially if you
make an unusual combination in colors.
Insert it between the tiles by using a wet cloth and let it dry for an hour.
Nowadays, it is possible to use red tile grout between green tiles, for example.
The result is a chic and unique bathroom. Choose different grout colors
depending on your taste, and you will get the ultimate effect of contrast.

In the end, install an elegant rain shower head and a lovely shower caddy.
Surprise! Have you ever imagined that it is possible to transform your
bathroom into an enjoyable place in a few steps? Well, the answer is in front of
you!

Step 8. Install a manufactured pan

If you want to avoid hard work, you can choose to install a standard shower
pan. In that case, skip the part with construction work and fit the pan.

Make sure the pan fits your bathroom correctly and attach it to the floor with
suitable adhesives. Use the instruction and connect the drain installation
properly.

If you get a set with an electric drill and screws, use them to screw down the
pan into the wall or studs. Use silicone bath caulk to fill in the possible holes
and prevent water from leaking. Let the pan dry off.

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Lavatory Installation
Though installing sinks may vary due to style and plumbing
setups, there are some basic steps in the process that are often the same for
all sinks. Knowing these steps will enable you to securely and safely install a
sink in any space that you need to. Whether you're putting a new sink in a
recently constructed home or replacing an old sink in a bathroom or kitchen,
Whether you're installing a new sink in a recently constructed home or
replacing an old one in a bathroom, you'll have to follow some simple
directions to efficiently and effectively mount and position the sink so it's
ready to use.

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 1. Get the necessary tools for the job. You can install a new sink
with basic tools and new components that match the valves already
installed in your plumbing.
 Make sure you have:[1]
 Silicone caulking[2]
 Plumbers' wrenches, either pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers
 Basin wrench[3]
 Set of plumbing sockets[4]
 Flexible hoses[5]
 Sink mixer or faucets[6]
 PTFE tape[7]

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 2. Turn off the water supply valves. Typically located beneath the
sink, it's critical that you shut off the water supply to the sink before
you remove it. If the valves are not beneath the sink, then you'll have to
turn off the main water supply. This is typically located on a lower level
or the basement near the water meter.[8]
 To test, turn on the hot and cold water on your sink and make sure no
water comes out before proceeding.

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3. Remove the old sink, if necessary. If you're replacing a sink, you'll
obviously need to remove the sink that's in place before installing the new one.
Disconnect the supply and drain lines from the faucet, using locking pliers or
a crescent wrench. A small amount of water may leak out when you do this,
which is normal. Just use a bucket or a towel to handle the water that leaks
out.[9]
 Locate the large nut that connects the sink to the drain and disconnect
it. This metal or plastic nut will be located either in the wall or the floor.
Use your hands or locking pliers to unscrew the nut.
 Remove the current sink by sliding the edge of a putty knife around the
perimeter of the bathroom sink, loosening any caulk that connects it.
Pull it loose.

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4. Measure the new sink to make sure it fits the space. All new sinks
should come with a template of the mounting opening, marking the location of
the faucet holes, including a cutout for the sink. You can use the template to
make sure the sink fits in the desired location. If it doesn't, you may need to
do some trimming or cut the entire opening if you're installing a sink in a
house under construction.[10]
 Most new sinks come with clips and screws that are used to hold the
sink in place. If you buy a faucet, sometimes it'll come with the drain
and tailpiece for the sink. If it isn't included, get one before you start.
The supply lines for the faucet need to correspond to the faucet and
valves under the sink, so make sure they match before you get started.

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Part 2 : Mounting the new sink

1. Put the sink in place and caulk it.

Put a thin bead of silicone around the bottom lip of the sink and set it into
the hole. Clean up any excess silicone or smooth a line. Depending on the
design of the sink and the opening where it connects to the plumbing
lines, you may need to caulk in any number of different places.[11]
 For undermount sinks, put a bead of silicone under, have someone hold
the sink in place, and install the connecting clips included with the
sink.
 You might have to pre-drill holes with a diamond carbide tip if you're
installing the sink in a granite/stone counter.

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 2. Secure the sink with clips.
Connective clips are often included with new sinks to help anchor the units
into place, in addition to the sealing caulk. The design of this varies, and
will depend on the type of sink and the design, but they usually act like a
lever to hold the sink in place. Follow the instructions included with the
new sink and defer to the manufacturer's guidelines.[12]

3. Install the faucet.

New faucets usually screw onto the faucet assembly in a clockwise direction.
Some faucets will have a rubber gasket around the base, and screw on easily,
while others will recommend using silicone sealant to secure to the sink or
counter. You can anchor the faucet by reaching up underneath and using lock
nuts that are included with the installation kit.[13]

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  Sometimes it may be easier to install the faucet before the sink,
depending on the design of the counter and the fixtures. Make sure the
space for the faucet matches the location of the sink, using the template
to measure before you install anything.

4. Install the tailpiece and drain kit.

Drop the tailpiece through the sink and screw on the tailpiece nut from
underneath. Some sinks come with gaskets that go between sink and
tailpiece. If it doesn't, use non-hardening plumbers' putty or silicone to create
the seal. Install the gasket, the included cardboard washer, and the locknut to
secure the tailpiece.[14]

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Part 3: Finishing the job

1. Make sure the water lines match the new fixture.

There are three common sizes: half-inch pipe thread, which is a coarser thread
used on single-handle sinks, ½ or 5/8ths compression, and 3/8ths
compression, which is a different type of thread commonly used on end valves,
and intended to provide leak-free seal over hard copper.[15]
 If your sink comes with lines and they don't match to valves, you can
get additional lines that will match. If you put two pipe threads together,
splice them with teflon tape.

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2. Connect the water supply lines.

Water supply lines should screw into place with the corresponding joints on
the new faucet. The specific size of the connectors should be included in the
instructions for the specific faucet that you're installing.[16]
 You want to get lines that will have the appropriate ends for valve end
and faucet end. Lines also need to be long enough so you won't put
stress on the joints. Better to have extra long lines and have them loop.
No hard bends or kinks. Make them hand tight, and somewhere around
a quarter to half turn with a wrench.
 Usually the "female" connection piece on both ends will always have
rubber gaskets, so you don't need teflon tape.

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3. Connect the pop-up.

The pop-up is the device that allows you to open and close the sink drain,
usually made of a simple metal rod with ball attached to it. Drop stopped into
sink from top, slide short end of rod into the opening on the tailpiece, making
sure that the opening for the ball is facing toward the lever for the pop-up.
Install as per the instructions.
 Sometimes you need washers and sometimes you don't. Slide nut to
trap the ball in the tailpiece. Tighten so there's no wiggle, but not so
tight that it's difficult to raise and lower. Attach thumbscrew to pop-up
lever rod while sliding the rod from the ball so they can attach and allow
you to screw together.

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4. Seal your connections with silicone caulk.

Finish with silicon around the top of the sink, anywhere that the basin of the
sink meets the wall, filling any gaps with a thin bead of caulk. Let the caulk
dry for about 24 hours before turning on the water and going back over your
work to check for leaks.

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5. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

There's no way to know if something is going to leak until you turn the water
on. If you have small leaks from the rubber connections, try tightening more.
The drain itself will also sometimes leak, which can be caused by over-
tightening and straining the seal created by the connector gaskets. If that's
leaking, don't go past hand tight. Try a new washer instead. It's also a good
idea to check the gasket that goes under the tailpiece. Try tightening the nut
down more or try different washer or silicone.[17]

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How to Install a Shower Drain
There are several
options when choosing a shower
drain for your preformed shower
base installation. Your choice
depends on your shower pan and
your situation. And the type of
pipes you have in your home and
the manufacturer’s
recommendations for both the
shower pan and the drain may also
help you determine which drain
assembly to buy.

Keep in mind that shower drain assemblies are generally made to

fit a 2-inch drainpipe, not the 1 1/2-inch pipe usually found on tubs. A 2-
inch pipe is the recommended size because showers have a low threshold for
flooding, and a 2-inch pipe helps the water drain faster than does a 1 1/2-
inch pipe. So, if you are converting from a tub and shower combination to a
shower, you'll likely have to change the drain pipe size.
Each type of drain assembly has its own installation method:
 Compression-style drains
 Solvent-glued drains
 Tiled drains
What You'll Need
Equipment / Tools
 Hacksaw or tubing cutter
 Channel-lock pliers
 Caulk gun
 Screwdrivers
Materials
 Shower drain assembly
 Silicone caulk
 Plastic pipe primer (where needed)
 Plastic pipe solvent glue (where needed)

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Instructions
How to Install a Compression-Style Shower Drain
Compression-type shower drains attach to the home drain pipes with
compression washers and nuts. This
style is generally easier to install than
solvent-glued drains, especially if you
don't have basement or crawlspace
access to the area below the shower
base. Compression-style drain
assemblies are available in ABS, PVC,
or brass, though PVC is gradually
becoming the most popular. Any of
these material types can be used with
steel, fiberglass, or acrylic shower
bases.
When installing a compression
shower drain, the drain fitting is
normally installed into the shower
base before the base is laid into position.

1. Trim the Drainpipe

For a compression-style shower drain fitting, the drainpipe should come up to
about 3/4 to 1 inch below the lip of the shower drain (follow manufacturer's
recommendations). You may have to test-fit the shower base to mark the right
height, then remove the base to cut the pipe.
Trimming the drain pipe can be done with a hacksaw or plastic tubing cutter.
If using a hacksaw, make sure to make the cut so it is flat and level.
2. Attach the Drain Assembly
Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the top flange of the shower drain
opening, then insert the drain assembly into the opening. Put the rubber
sealing washer and cardboard friction washer over the drain assembly
tailpiece from under the shower base. Thread the mounting nut onto the
tailpiece and tighten it down with channel-lock pliers.
Wipe away any excess caulk that has oozed out around the drain assembly.
3. Position the Shower Base
Carefully position the shower base so the drain pipe extends up into the drain
assembly.

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4. Insert the Compression Gasket
Place the soft rubber compression gasket down into the drain opening so it fits
around the drain pipe. Thread the compression nut into the drain opening and
tighten it. Compression-style drain fittings usually come with a tool to help
you tighten the nut from inside of the drain. As you tighten, the rubber gasket
is compressed against the drain pipe, creating a watertight seal.
Fit the grate over the drain opening. Allow the silicone to cure for a full 24
hours before using the shower

How to Install a Tile Shower Drain

Drain assemblies for custom-
tiled showers are three-piece units,
each of which is installed at different
phases of the tile pan installation. The
waterproof membrane liner for the
shower is sandwiched between two
lower flanges, which are bolted
together. This liner is the lowest layer
of water resistance and will make sure
anything getting in under mortar will
still go down into the drain and not
leak through the shower pan. The
final piece, the strainer assembly, is
the only piece that is visible when the
shower pan is completed.
If a tile professional is installing your
custom shower base, they will handle the drain installation as part of the

1. Install the Bottom Flange

After the subfloor of the shower is prepared and clean, install the bottom
flange of the shower drain into the drainpipe, usually by solvent gluing.
After this is done, a bed of mortar is troweled around the drain opening,
creating a 1/4 inch per foot slope away from the walls and toward the drain.
When the mortar bed has dried, a waterproof membrane liner is installed over
the floor and the lower flange of the shower drain. Use silicone caulk to seal
the liner to the drain flange, then trim away the liner around the drain
opening.
2. Install the Middle Flange
Insert the middle flange of the drain fitting over the liner and drain opening,
using bolts to secure it to the bottom flange beneath the liner. The liner will be

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tightly sandwiched between the flanges. At this point, it's common practice to
pour water over the shower pan to check the liner for leaks.
3. Install the Strainer Assembly
Attach the drain strainer assembly to the drain, so it extends up above the
liner. This piece usually has male threads that screw down into the female
threads of the middle flange. The degree of extension for the strainer assembly
depends on how the tile will be installed—follow manufacturer's instructions.
It may be as much as 1 1/2 inches if you are laying tile on a solid mortar bed.
Now you are ready for the rest of the ceramic tile installation. Usually this
involve a second layer of mortar, then ceramic tile applied over the mortar. The
tile should be grouted, sealed, and cured before you use the shower.

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Activity Sheet
Performance Task

Direction: Perform how to install and Assemble Plumbing Fixtures based on

the information sheets you read above and the procedures based on what we
have tackled regarding installing assembling Plumbing fixtures.

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Evaluation

Self-check
Direction: List down the steps on how to install the following:
Write your Answer in separate sheet of paper.

1. Water Closet Installation

2. Lavatory Installation
3. Floor drain Installation

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 Acknowledgement

The Competency-Based Learning Materials on Install and Assemble

Plumbing Fixtures under the Plumbing National Certificate I
Qualification based on the Philippine TVET Trainers Qualification
Framework, could not have not been possible without the outsourced
materials presented in the Bibliography; and participation and support of
the following who in one way or another contributed in the development of
the CBLM’s. And to whom the OSPA-TC family extends its sincerest
gratitude:

To the trainers, teachers and the OSPA-TC family, for helping and
supporting as to make these modules success and done.
Ms. Mary Faith C. Pongos, School Administrator, for motivating the
OSPA-TC trainers and Teachers to develop Modules in support of
Competency-Based Training implementation; and for extending the much
needed technical guidance;

Finally, we would like to thank God Almighty for giving as the

strength and passion to develop beyond expectations.

TO GOD BE THE GLORY!

OSPA TRAINNING CENTER

Brgy. Can-adieng, Carlota Hills
Ormoc City Leyte

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References

The National Plumbing Code

Architectural Graphic Standard – Ramsey and Sleeper
Mechanical and Electrical Equipment for Buildings 6th Edition Mc
Guinness Stein Reynolds
Progressive Architecture
Time Saver Standards for Building Types 2nd Edition by J. Chara & John
Callender
Rural Water Supply and Sanitation – Forest B. Wright
Water Supply and Sewerage – Steel Mcghee
How to Design and Install Plumbing. by A.S Mathias, Jr. and Esles
Smith Jr.
Plumbing by Dick Demske
Readers Digest Home Improvement Manual
Building Technology and Mechanical System by Mc Guiness and Stein
Pipe Work and Pipe Welding L.J Rose
Municipal and Rural Sanitation – Victor M Ehlers and Ernest W. Steel
ASHRAE Standard 90-75
Eslon Blue uPVC Pipes and Fittings Manual
Eternit Corporation Technical Data
Philippine Standard Product and Catalog
Audel The Home Plumbing Handbook by Charles N. Mc Connell

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