HAIR TREATMENT

• Explain the two most important requirements for scalp care.

• Describe the benefits of scalp massage.

• Know how to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or dandruff ridden.

• Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp.

• Explain the two most important requirements for

• scalp care.

• Describe the benefits of scalp massage.

• Know how to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or dandruff ridden.

• Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp.

Hair and Scalp Care

Scalp Care and Massage

The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation.

Scalp treatments and massage may be performed either:

Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent

During the shampoo (once conditioner has been applied to the hair) for relaxation

The difference between a relaxation and a treatment massage is the products you use. Be
sure to follow all of the manufacturer’s directions whenever a special scalp treatment
product is used. For simple relaxation, almost any conditioner may be used to create a very
enjoyable experience for your client.

Extra services like this will keep your clients coming back to you. Knowing the muscles, the
location of blood vessels, and the nerve points of the scalp and neck will help guide you to
those areas most likely to benefit from massage movements.

DRY HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENT

A dry hair and scalp treatment should be used when there is a deficiency of natural oil on
the scalp and hair. Select scalp preparations containing moisturizing and emollient
ingredients. Avoid the use of strong soaps, preparations containing a mineral- or
sulfonated-oil base, greasy preparations, or lotions with high alcohol content. During a dry
hair and scalp treatment, a scalp steamer, which resembles a hooded dryer, is used.

OILY HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENT

Excessive oiliness is caused by overactive sebaceous glands. Manipulate the scalp and
knead it to increase blood circulation to the surface. Any hardened sebum in the pores of
the scalp will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing. To normalize the function of
these glands, excess sebum should be flushed out with each treatment.

ANTIDANDRUFF TREATMENT

Dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia. Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners,

and topical lotions contain antifungal agents that control dandruff by suppressing the
growth of malassezia. Moisturizing salon treatments also soften and loosen scalp scales
that stick to the scalp in crusts. Because of the ability of fungus to resist treatment,
additional salon treatments and the frequent use of antidandruff home care should be
recommended.

BRUSHING THE HAIR

You should include a thorough hair brushing as part of every shampoo and scalp treatment,
regardless of whether your client’s hair and scalp are dry or oily. Brushing also allows the
stylist to examine the scalp for abrasions and infections.

HAIR-BRUSHING EXCEPTIONS
The two exceptions to hair brushing are as follows:
Do not brush or irritate the scalp before giving a chemical service.
Do not brush if the scalp is irritated.

Brushing, massaging, or shampooing the scalp before a service is not recommended for:
Single-process and double-process haircolor
Highlighting
Most chemical relaxers (follow manufacturer's directions)
Some temporary and semipermanent haircolor (follow manufacturer's directions)

If shampooing is recommended, shampoo gently to avoid scalp irritation.

HAIR BRUSHES
Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean and add luster to the hair
Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for hairstyling
SCALP ANALYSIS
Shampooing provides the perfect opportunity to analyze the client’s hair and scalp.
Always check for the listed conditions.
Salon assistants should always alert the stylist about any hair or scalp conditions, including
suspected diseases or disorders. A client with an infectious disease is never to be treated in
the salon and should be referred to a physician.
The primary purpose of a shampoo is to cleanse the hair and scalp prior to a service. This is
also the time to educate the client about the importance of using quality hair care products
at home.
To be effective, a shampoo must remove all dirt, oils, cosmetics, and skin debris without
adversely affecting either the scalp or hair. The scalp and hair need to be cleansed regularly
to combat the accumulation of oils and perspiration that mix with the natural scales and
dirt to create a breeding ground for disease-producing bacteria.
Hair should only be shampooed as often as necessary. Excessive shampooing strips the hair
of its protective oil (sebum) that, in small amounts, seals and protects the hair’s cuticle. As a
general rule, oily hair needs to be shampooed more often than normal or dry hair.

Shampoo Collection
As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of
the hair, whether the hair is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry.
Product knowledge is critical (read labels).

SELECTION CONSIDERATIONS
Select a shampoo according to the condition of the client's hair and scalp. Hair can usually
be characterized as oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated. Your client might even have an
oily scalp with dry hair, possibly due to overprocessing.
When selecting the shampoo to be used, be aware of whether or not the hair has been
chemically treated. Chemically treated hair (hair that has been lightened, colored, permed,
or chemically relaxed) and hair that has been abused by the use of harsh shampoos or
damaged by improper care and exposure to the elements (wind, sun, cold, or heat) may
require a product that is less harsh and more conditioning than a product suitable for virgin
hair (hair that has not been chemically treated).

Potential Hydrogen (pH)

The small p represents a quantity.
The capital H represents the hydrogen ion.
The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 1 to
14

POTENTIAL HYDROGEN (pH)

Understanding pH levels will help you select the proper shampoo for your client. The
amount of hydrogen in a solution, which determines whether it is alkaline or acid, is
measured on a pH scale that has a range from 0 to 14. The pH of a neutral solution, one
which is neither acidic nor alkaline, is 7. A shampoo that is acidic will have a pH ranging
from 0 to 6.9; a shampoo that is alkaline will have a pH rating of 7.1 or higher. The more
alkaline the shampoo, the stronger and harsher it is. A high-pH shampoo can leave the hair
dry, brittle, and porous. A high-pH shampoo can cause fading in color-treated hair. A slightly
acidic shampoo more closely matches the ideal pH of hair.
A pH-balanced shampoo is balanced to the pH of skin and hair (4.5 to 5.5). Experts believe
that an acid pH of 4.5 to 5.5 will prevent excessive dryness and hair damage during the
cleansing process. Many shampoos are pH balanced by the addition of citric, lactic, or
phosphoric acid. Shampoos that are pH balanced help to close the hair cuticle and are
recommended for hair that has been color treated or lightened.
In the 1960s, beauty pioneer Jheri Redding revolutionized the salon industry by being the
first to market pH-balanced shampoos. He went around the country staging
demonstrations that showed how acidic shampoos (pH below 7) outperformed alkaline
shampoos. When Redding dipped a piece of litmus paper into his shampoo, it would come
up a glowing orange, pink, or gold. The litmus test on his competitors’ products would come
up a murky purple or black. Most cosmetic chemists today agree that a low pH is good for
all hair, especially chemically treated hair.

THE CHEMISTRY OF WATER. Water is the universal solvent, meaning it is capable of

dissolving more substances than any other solvent.
PURIFICATION: Fresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for domestic use.
Sedimentation: A treatment that causes matter to sink to the bottom.
Filtration: Passing through a porous substance, such as filter paper or charcoal. The
process removes suspended clay, sand, and organic material.
Chlorine added: Small amounts are added to kill bacteria.
Boiling: 212 degrees Fahrenheit or 100 degrees Celsius. Destroys microbes.
Distillation: The process of heating water so it becomes a vapor, then condensing the vapor
so that it collects as a liquid. This process is used frequently in the manufacture of
cosmetics.

SOFT WATER: Rain water or chemically softened water. It contains small amounts of
minerals and allows soap and shampoo to lather freely.
HARD WATER: Contains minerals that lessen the ability of soap or shampoo to lather
readily. Can be softened by a chemical process.

THE CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOOS. An understanding of the chemical ingredients used in

shampoos will help you prescribe the best product for your clients.
WATER: The main ingredient, but purified or deionized. Water is usually listed first on
product labels because it represents the largest percentage of all ingredients. All others are
listed in descending order.
SURFACTANT MOLECULE: Surfactant and detergent are synonymous, meaning “cleansing,
or surface active, agent.”
Hydrophilic end: This is the “head” end of a shampoo molecule and is water attracting.

Lipophilic end: This is the “tail” end of a shampoo molecule and is oil attracting.
Since both ends are working during a shampoo, a push–pull effect is created that causes the
oils, dirt, and deposits to form little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from
the hair.
TYPES OF SHAMPOOS. Shampoo products represent the highest dollar expenditure in hair
care products.
pH-balanced: Has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5, the same as hair. By adding citric, lactic, or phosphoric
acid to any shampoo, it can become acid balanced.
Consumer’s Union chemists believe that a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 is essential to prevent excessive
dryness and hair damage. A pH between 5 and 8 is too small to affect the hair and scalp due
to the limited time of actual application.
Conditioning: Also known as moisturizing. Designed to make hair smooth and shiny,
improve manageability, and avoid damage to chemically treated hair. Protein and biotin are
conditioning agents that restore moisture and elasticity, strengthen hair shaft, and add
volume. They are also nonstripping.
Medicated: Reduce dandruff or relieve scalp conditions. Some require a prescription.
Clarifying: Contain an acidic ingredient like cider vinegar to cut through product buildup.
They increase shine; shouldn’t be used regularly, but as needed.
Balancing: Wash away excess oiliness while keeping hair from drying out.
Dry or powder: Used when client’s health prevents a wet shampoo. They cleanse without
the use of soap and water. Powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb through the
hair.
Color-enhancing: The shampoo surfactant is combined with basic dyes. Similar to
temporary rinses; removed with plain shampooing; used to brighten, to add some slight
color, and to eliminate unwanted color tones.
For hairpieces and wigs: Special solutions are formulated for these.

A GREAT SMAMPOO EXPERIENCE

The scalp is always massaged according to the preference of the client. Some clients have a
sensitive scalp and want a very light massage, while others want a firm massage. In order to
service every client to the best of your ability, ask about massage preferences before
beginning the procedure.
Always ask the client if the water feels too warm, too cool, or just right; adjust the
temperature accordingly.
Do not allow the water or your hands to touch a woman's face during the shampoo.
Allowing the client’s face to get wet may remove part of her base makeup and can turn an
otherwise great shampoo into an unpleasant experience.
It is easy to miss the nape of the neck when shampooing and rinsing, so you should always
double-check this area before escorting the client to your station.
Throughout the shampoo, be very careful not to drench the towel that is draped around the
client’s neck. If the towel becomes damp, replace it with a clean, dry towel before leaving
the shampoo area.
When blotting the hair after the shampoo, be careful once again not to touch the face. If you
remove part of your client’s makeup, she may feel self-conscious during her entire visit.
As you learn to give a great shampoo, you should also learn how to give a great relaxation
massage. You may hear your clients say, “Don't stop, you can do that for hours,” every time
they come to you. Even though you may hear this five times a day, it is always satisfying to
know that you are making your clients feel good!

UNDERSTANDING CONDITIONERS. Conditioners are special chemical agents applied to the

hair to deposit protein or moisturizer, to help restore its strength and give it body, or to
protect against possible breakage. They are a temporary “fix” and cannot “heal” damaged
hair or improve the quality of new hair growth. Remember: Heredity, health, and diet
control the texture and structure of hair.

FORMULATION
Most conditioners contain silicone which, along with moisture-binding humectants, is a
substance that absorbs moisture or promotes the retention of moisture. Silicone reflects
light and makes the hair appear shiny. Other ingredients such as emollients and synthetic
polymers reduce frizz or bulk up the hair. Most treatments and leave-ins contain proteins,
which penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft from within, temporarily
reconstructing the hair.
The cuticle is made up of overlapping scales; a healthy cuticle lies down smoothly and
reflects light, giving the appearance of shiny hair. Conditioners smooth the cuticle and coat
the hair shaft to achieve the same effect, as do detangling rinses or cream rinses, although
they are not as heavy.
The cortex makes up 90 percent of the hair strand; it can be penetrated with protein
conditioners. Moisturizing conditioners also contain humectants, which attract moisture
from the air and are absorbed into the cortex.

OTHER CONDITIONING AGENTS

Spray-on thermal protectors: Applied prior to thermal service.
Scalp conditioners: Usually a cream base used to soften and improve scalp health.
Medicated scalp lotions: Promote healing of the scalp.
Scalp astringent lotions: Used to remove oil accumulation from scalp; used after a scalp
treatment and before styling.

THREE-PART PROCEDURE
It is easier to keep track of what you are doing, to remain organized, and to give consistent
service if you break your hair care procedures into three individual parts. The Three-Part
Procedure consists of: 1) pre-service; 2) service; and 3) post-service.
1. PRE-SERVICE: The pre-service procedure is an organized step-by-step plan for the
cleaning and disinfecting of your tools, implements, and materials; for setting up your
station; and for meeting, greeting, and escorting your client to your service area.
2. SERVICE: The service procedure is an organized step-by-step plan for accomplishing the
actual service the client has requested, such as a shampoo, haircut, or haircoloring.
3. POST-SERVICE: The post-service procedure is an organized step-by-step plan for caring
for your client after the procedure has been completed. It consists of helping your client
through the scheduling and payment process of the salon and preparing for the next client.