DevonB Example

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 6

58 Down Tor B Grade Spread 21 44 16 3 - Down Tor 59

This vast area sprawls eastwards from Middleworth Tor which is a 250m walk from the
Burrator Area

Burrator Area
parking at Norsworthy Bridge. The main tor lures you in from afar with the promise of infinite
bouldering possibilities. Whilst on arrival it may appear less impressive, closer inspection
reveals a plethora of climbable features. It is justifiably one of Dartmoor's most popular
venues for the low-to-mid grade operator and has the added benefit of beautiful views west
to the bleak open moor and south to the picturesque Burrator Reservoir.
North Moor Tors

North Moor Tors


Approach
From the large Norsworthy Bridge parking area at the far eastern end of Burrator Reservoir
a track leads uphill to the south west. Turn immediately left off this and walk eastwards
across a field. Middleworth Tor is about 250m along the path, Snappers Tor about 450m,
Chagford Area

Chagford Area
Whaleback Boulders about 750m, and Down Tor proper, 1km. Approaches for each area are
described individually.

Conditions
Upper Dart Valley

Upper Dart Valley


While the areas on the approach (Middleworth Tor and Snappers Tor) are relatively
sheltered the bouldering further along at Whaleback Boulders and Down Tor is fairly
exposed to the prevailing wind. Some shelter can be had on the lower areas of the tor
during a cold easterly.
Haytor Area

Haytor Area
Lustleigh Area

Lustleigh Area
Bovey Woods

Bovey Woods
scan for map

1km
Middleworth Tor
Down Tor
p.60 Snappers Tor
Start Point Area

Start Point Area


p.61

GPS 50.506051
-4.019741 Whaleback Boulder Area
Torbay Area

Torbay Area
p.62

Burrator
Reservoir
Outlying Areas

Outlying Areas
Middleworth Plantation
p.42 Dave Henderson on Drystone Edge (f5) - p.62 - at the
Roughtor Boulders Whaleback Boulder Area, Down Tor. The prominent
Combeshead Tor
p.56 tor in the middle distance is Leather Tor, Dartmoor's
p.70
answer to Snowdonia's Tryfan! Photo: Carrie Hill
60 Down Tor Middleworth Tor Snappers Tor Down Tor 61
Middleworth Tor 5 High Block Wall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4+ Snappers Tor r Drake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f6C
Burrator Area

Burrator Area
This small area does not have a great deal to go at but it Up the middle of the wall. Another minor venue although it is a bit meatier than Climb the middle of the wall to a break, then make tough moves
is very convenient for those short on time or as a stop-off Middleworth Tor. Worthwhile mainly as a stop-off or if right to holds near the arete. Finish up the next problem.
to warm up.
6 High Block Easy Arete . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4 short on time. Apart from the Face in Profile block, the
Approach - This is the first area you arrive at, about
250m from Norsworthy Bridge parking, found to the right
The arete.
problems here are high, a bit lichenous and dangerous -
the sensible may wish to take a rope.
t Climbs to Have Done . . . . . 1hΩ f5+
Aptly named - it's a bit pokey. The left side of the rib has a good
of the main path, over a wall by some trees. Approach - This is just to the right of the path about
7 James Blunt Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f5+ flake near the top.
North Moor Tors

North Moor Tors


200m further along the main path from Middleworth Tor,
The blunt arete around to the right, finishing on the right. reached just after a steeper section of path.
1 Big Flake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f3+ y Groove and Rib. . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f3
The large flake on the left. A small flat-topped boulder in front of the high block. The smaller boulder in front of the tor bears an uncanny The right-hand line is relatively straightforward but high.
resemblance to a human face from the side.
2 Flared Starfish . . . . . . . . . . tgΩ f5+ 8 Corkscrew Flake . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f3+ The meaty section of rock up to the right is something of a
The wall using the arete for left hand and flared cracks for right. The flake on the arete. q Profile Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f4 sausage-fest.
Chagford Area

Chagford Area
Climb the slab using anything. Eliminates and variations exist.
3 Flared Cracks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4 9 Corkscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1sΩ f5+ u Minuscule Sausage. . . . . . . 2hΩ f5+
The central line is a short problem but potentially a longer fall. Start up the flake and razz around the top of the block to finish
where you started.
w A Face in Profile . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f4+ This dangerous highball merits E2 and could leave you with
more than indigestion. The middle of the wall to the small roof.
The steeper side of the arete from sitting. A standing start
4 Tricky Arete. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f5+ reduces the grade to f3.
i Chippolata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f4+
The short right arete on either side. 0 Corkscrew Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f5
Upper Dart Valley

Upper Dart Valley


The tiny right arete. e A Hole. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1pΩ f5 The right side of the arete from the higher grassy ledge eases
after a committing start.
The wall and aretes from a low start in the pit.

ES$ o Flat Sausage. . . . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f4


ES$
5 min

5 min
The good wall right again is less dangerous.

p Captain Jaspers' 12 Incher. . . . hΩ f5


Haytor Area

Haytor Area
The blunt arete right of the chimney - abort right at the roof.
Lustleigh Area

Lustleigh Area
3
Bovey Woods

Bovey Woods
2 4
0
1 p
io
Start Point Area

Start Point Area


u
rt y
ES$ 5 min

q w e
7
Torbay Area

Torbay Area
9
6
Outlying Areas

Outlying Areas
5 0
8
62 Down Tor Whaleback Boulder Area Main Area Down Tor 63
Whaleback Boulder Area Whaleback Boulder Main Area r Wall Direct. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f5
ES$
Burrator Area

Burrator Area
The quality increases significantly here - the main The summit of the tor has a series of boulders dotted The wall using cracks to either side.
5 min
Whaleback Boulder is excellent with a collection of good around it. There is a great concentration of bouldering
technical problems.
Approach - Continue along the path east for a further
here with plenty of good easier stuff.
Approach - Continuing along the approach path about
t Diagonal Flakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4+
Follow the flakes.
300m from Snappers Tor to the fin-shaped profile of the 1km from Norsworthy Bridge brings you to a large
Whaleback Boulder over to the right. The first problems boulder with a prominent, roof - the Great Overhanging
y Pooh Crack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . kΩ f5
North Moor Tors

North Moor Tors


are on this. About 30m downhill to the south is a large Boulder.
boulder above a drystone wall. Good jamming practice up the crack.
Head uphill and left from the Great Overhanging Boulder passing
the Compact Wall and Twin Offwidth Slab on the way. u Pooh Arete. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f5
1 Whaleback Arete . . . . . . . . 3tΩ f6A 6 The arete can be climbed on either side.
An old-school classic 'English 6b' up the end arete. Twizzling 0 Courting is a Pleasure. . . . 2wΩ f6C
around to the right higher up is the easiest method. A right-to-left traverse of the slopey ledge, dropping down to a i Pooh Corner. . . . . . . . . . . . . kwΩ f5
Chagford Area

Chagford Area
finger-rail and then finishing up from this. An aptly named problem up the corner. Watch out for bum
2 Whaleback Right Side . . . . 2tΩ f5 5 skidders on the sit-start.
The right side, using the tiny flake. Photo on cover.
4 q Cheeky Pinch. . . . . . . . . . . . 1wΩ f6A
The rib right of the crack from sitting, passing the crystal pinch. Compact Wall
3 Double Scoop . . . . . . . . . . . 2tΩ f6A 3
The slabby wall via a dish and crystal to finish. Photo p.35.
1 2
w Cheeky Pinch, Standing. . . . . . . . . . Ω f4 ES$ 15 min
Upper Dart Valley

Upper Dart Valley


The meat of the problem can be avoided with a standing start.
4 Super Direct . . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f6A+
A tight super-direct eliminate is possible to push the grade up. e Apex Traverse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4+
6 East Side Traverse. . . . . . . . 1tΩ f6A Razz up and down the top edge of the boulder in either or both
5 Rightside Route . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5+ The lower-level traverse, right to left, is normally finished up directions.
Through the lower overlap then gain the arete on the right. Whaleback Right Side.
Split Boulder
Haytor Area

Haytor Area
ES$
ES$ ES$
15 min
Whaleback Boulder
10 min 10 min

t y i
r u
Lustleigh Area

Lustleigh Area
e
0 q
w
9
Bovey Woods

Bovey Woods
7 8

7 The Mantel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1wΩ f5 8 Stonewalled . . . . . . . . . 2tfΩ f7A+ Undercut Wall


Start Point Area

Start Point Area


Sit start, 'bump' for the jug and 'grind' out the finish. Also An enticing problem left of the stone wall which may have lost p.64
known as Bump 'N' Grind. crucial crystals. Make fingery pulls to gain the wall then escape
right to the arete. A more direct finish may be possible.

Main Area 9 Drystone Edge. . . . . . . . 1ghΩ f5


Traverse the boulder up leftward until a rockover rightward is Twin Offwidth Slab
possible to avoid the long stretch to the top. The tricky start can
Torbay Area

Torbay Area
p.64
be avoided by pulling on further along. Photo p.59.

The Mantel Stonewalled


Outlying Areas

Outlying Areas
Whaleback Boulder
Approach from
Northsworthy Great Overhanging Boulder
Bridge p.65
64 Down Tor Main Area Main Area Down Tor 65
A slab above and left of the Great Overhanging Boulder. Walking further up the hill above the Twin Offwidth Slab leads to
a decent and impressive wall. Bullet - p.68
Burrator Area

Burrator Area
o Pooh Slab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5+
The slab without using either arete - eliminate but good. h Wafer Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f5 Split Boulder
Start up the left, honk it along the break and finish where you
p Pooh Slab Avec Right Arete. . . . . . . Ω f3+ can step off.
Apex Traverse
p.63 Dragon
An easier version uses the edge of the crack to the right. Undercut Wall Overhanging Wall Fly - p.69
j Undercut Wall Low Traverse - p.63
North Moor Tors

North Moor Tors


p.69
a Left Hand Offwidth . . . . . . . . . kΩ f3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2wsΩ f6B+
The body-rasping crack is probably best for spectators. Sit start on the left, stretch out to the nose then traverse the
Compact Wall
p.63
lower break rightward until you can move up into the wider
s Heather Crack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f3 break then finish direct. Twin Offwidth Slab
A botanist's delight to the right. Rippled Slab Down Tor
k Jug Route. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f5 p.68 summit
Chagford Area

Chagford Area
d Heather Slab. . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5 The left line up the wall, finishing leftward. Great Overhanging Boulder
A pleasing little problem up the slab.
l Wafer Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f5
f Right Hand Offwidth. . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f3 The wall to the right, finishing leftward.
Get involved in the crack.
Scary Top
Upper Dart Valley

Upper Dart Valley


The Cavern
Undercut Wall - p.68
g Pinnacle Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f3
The slab to the right. ES$ 15 min
p.66

Tufted Slabs
Triple Slab
Twin Offwidth Slab

ES$ 15 min
p.67

Lowlife Boulder
Haytor Area

Haytor Area
p.67
100m
h
A prominent bit of rock which is the first boulderable feature you Above the Great Overhanging Boulder are some grass topped
arrive at when approaching from Norsworthy Bridge. slabs with a trio of problems.
Lustleigh Area

Lustleigh Area
; Great Overhang . . . . . . . . . 2pΩ f7A+ c Tufted Left. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f5+
j A challenging problem comes out from the crack at the back The slab on the left will appeal to slab and tuft lovers alike.
k l of the roof; there's a handy foot jam and a difficult to control
swing. Good luck! v Tufted Central. . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5+
More slabby tuftedness up the middle.
z East Face Top Traverse. . . . . . . . . . . Ω f5
b Tufted Right . . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5+
Bovey Woods

Bovey Woods
g Climb the arete and then traverse the top rightward.
o a sd f x East Face Traverse . . . . . . . 1tΩ f6A
The right-hand slab completes an inspired trilogy of creative
naming and descriptions.
p The arete and then traverse the slab rightward from the break.
Tufted Slabs
The slabby east face of the block is home to a few up and
ES$
Start Point Area

Start Point Area


sideways possibilities, left for your own re-invention. 15 min

Great Overhanging Boulder


Tufted Slabs

x
Torbay Area

Torbay Area
c v b
Compact Wall z
;
Outlying Areas

Outlying Areas
p.63

Great Overhanging Boulder

ES$ 15 min
66 Down Tor Main Area Main Area Down Tor 67

ES$
Burrator Area

Burrator Area
15 min

The Cavern
Triple Slab
North Moor Tors

North Moor Tors


Chagford Area

Chagford Area
n .
/!
Upper Dart Valley

Upper Dart Valley


&*
m $ % ^
@
, £
Haytor Area

Haytor Area
Lustleigh Area

Lustleigh Area
Moving across the hillside to the right of the Great Overhanging Continuing rightward from the Pyramid Block are a few short
Boulder leads to The Cavern. slabs punctuated by cracks. The first problem follows a The next problem is found on a low block 30m to the right Lowlife Boulder

n Step Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f5
delightful crack to the left of the slabs. (south east) of the Triple Slab.
ES$ 15 min

The face left of the arete features a step up! @ Minging Crack. . . . . . . . 1pkΩ f5+ ( Lowlife Traverse. . 2gswΩ f6C
A real delight for lovers of the ming - the star is for its fetish From the low flake gain and traverse the lip leftward to mantel
Bovey Woods

Bovey Woods
m Pyramid Block Arete . . . . . . . . 1Ω f3+ appeal! It's often wet but, as luck would have it, it's still on the left.
Climbed on either side. climbable if you're so inclined.

, Pyramid Block Right Arete . . . wΩ f5+ £ The Nose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5


From a sit-start using big flakes, 'thrash' leftward to the apex. Not to be confused with the El Cap classic.
(
Start Point Area

Start Point Area


. The Cavern. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . sΩ f5+ $ Left Hand Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f5+
An esoteric problem. From a chimneyed position inside the Eliminate the crack at this grade.
cavern, fiddle your way out to the arete and top out above.
% Left Hand Crack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f3 Tufted Slabs
/ Cavern Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . 1wΩ f5 p.65
The left side of the arete from a low start. A standing start ^ Central Slab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f4+ The Cavern
Torbay Area

Torbay Area
reduces the grade to f5. Eliminate the cracks and finish leftward. Pyramid Block

! Cavern Arete Right. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4+ & Central Crack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4 Triple Slab


The easier but inferior right side of the arete.
* Right-hand Slab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4
The slab on the right.
Outlying Areas

Outlying Areas
Great Overhanging Boulder
p.65
68 Down Tor Main Area Main Area Down Tor 69
Rippled Slab Down Tor summit Overhanging Wall

ES$ TS$
Burrator Area

Burrator Area
Overhanging Wall
20 min 20 min

Scary Top
North Moor Tors

North Moor Tors


)

Q
Chagford Area

Chagford Area
Approach from E O
Undercut Wall W
Facing the Undercut Wall walk rightward in the general direct of Y D
W Pyramid Slab Arete . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f3
Upper Dart Valley

Upper Dart Valley


the tor summit.
The right side of the left arete provides a good easier line. U I P AS
) Rippled Slab Traverse . . . . . . . 1Ω f3+ E Pyramid Slab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4
Traverse the slab in either direction.
A tricky start to get onto the slab followed by easier padding.
Bullet Boulder
Q Rippled Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f3+
The pleasant slab can be tackled by various lines.
30m north east of the Rippled Slab, on the other side of a grassy
O Overhanging Wall. . . . . 2pwΩ f6A
Haytor Area

Haytor Area
avenue, is the northwest-facing Overhanging Wall.
Up the cracks in the right side of the wall using anything.
Facing Pyramid Slab, this is the high, stepped boulder over to
the right. Y Pagan Poetry . . . . 3pswΩ f7A P Overhanging Arete. . . . . . . . . . 2Ω f6B
A tough left-to-right traverse starting along the low break then
The arete on the right with the same finish as Pagan Poetry.
R Scary Top . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hgΩ f5 rising up to a hard finish on the right arete.
Lustleigh Area

Lustleigh Area
An enjoyable start leads to a frightening finish.
U Mikey's Dyno. . . . . . . . . 1owΩ f6C A Inclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f5
A sharp landing which requires a few pads. The line right of the
Climb from the low crack to a crimp/pocket about 2m right of
ES$ 20 min
Rippled Slab
the left arete.
overhanging prow finishing leftward.

I Two Pint Murray. . . . . . 1pwΩ f6B S Dirty Cracks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4+


The crack is for dirt bags only.
From good low holds in the break hang a left then follow
Bovey Woods

Bovey Woods
positive holds to a troublesome finish.
D Rik's Little Arete. . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f5
Good moves but rather small. Sit start with feet on the block.

R
ES$
Start Point Area

Start Point Area


20 min

Bullet is found 60m downhill to the south east of Overhanging

ES$ 20 min
Wall.
Torbay Area

Torbay Area
T Bullet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2pwΩ f6A+ The eastern side of the tor is home to quite a bit of rock, most
of which is disappointing to the boulderer. There are a few
An excellent little problem. From jams in the low break gain a
problems dotted around the higher walls to the east side of
hold on the lip and finish above. Photo p.40.
the summit - left to your own discovery. Dragon Fly is a more
significant problem and is found further down the hillside
among a few more features the intrepid may be interested in.
Outlying Areas

Outlying Areas
F
F Dragon Fly. . . . . . . . . . . 2pwΩ f6C
T An excellent problem although the top out tends to be a bit
dirty. Sit start with a foot lock in the break.

You might also like

pFad - Phonifier reborn

Pfad - The Proxy pFad of © 2024 Garber Painting. All rights reserved.

Note: This service is not intended for secure transactions such as banking, social media, email, or purchasing. Use at your own risk. We assume no liability whatsoever for broken pages.


Alternative Proxies:

Alternative Proxy

pFad Proxy

pFad v3 Proxy

pFad v4 Proxy