DevonB Example
DevonB Example
DevonB Example
This vast area sprawls eastwards from Middleworth Tor which is a 250m walk from the
Burrator Area
Burrator Area
parking at Norsworthy Bridge. The main tor lures you in from afar with the promise of infinite
bouldering possibilities. Whilst on arrival it may appear less impressive, closer inspection
reveals a plethora of climbable features. It is justifiably one of Dartmoor's most popular
venues for the low-to-mid grade operator and has the added benefit of beautiful views west
to the bleak open moor and south to the picturesque Burrator Reservoir.
North Moor Tors
Chagford Area
Whaleback Boulders about 750m, and Down Tor proper, 1km. Approaches for each area are
described individually.
Conditions
Upper Dart Valley
Haytor Area
Lustleigh Area
Lustleigh Area
Bovey Woods
Bovey Woods
scan for map
1km
Middleworth Tor
Down Tor
p.60 Snappers Tor
Start Point Area
GPS 50.506051
-4.019741 Whaleback Boulder Area
Torbay Area
Torbay Area
p.62
Burrator
Reservoir
Outlying Areas
Outlying Areas
Middleworth Plantation
p.42 Dave Henderson on Drystone Edge (f5) - p.62 - at the
Roughtor Boulders Whaleback Boulder Area, Down Tor. The prominent
Combeshead Tor
p.56 tor in the middle distance is Leather Tor, Dartmoor's
p.70
answer to Snowdonia's Tryfan! Photo: Carrie Hill
60 Down Tor Middleworth Tor Snappers Tor Down Tor 61
Middleworth Tor 5 High Block Wall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4+ Snappers Tor r Drake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f6C
Burrator Area
Burrator Area
This small area does not have a great deal to go at but it Up the middle of the wall. Another minor venue although it is a bit meatier than Climb the middle of the wall to a break, then make tough moves
is very convenient for those short on time or as a stop-off Middleworth Tor. Worthwhile mainly as a stop-off or if right to holds near the arete. Finish up the next problem.
to warm up.
6 High Block Easy Arete . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4 short on time. Apart from the Face in Profile block, the
Approach - This is the first area you arrive at, about
250m from Norsworthy Bridge parking, found to the right
The arete.
problems here are high, a bit lichenous and dangerous -
the sensible may wish to take a rope.
t Climbs to Have Done . . . . . 1hΩ f5+
Aptly named - it's a bit pokey. The left side of the rib has a good
of the main path, over a wall by some trees. Approach - This is just to the right of the path about
7 James Blunt Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f5+ flake near the top.
North Moor Tors
Chagford Area
Climb the slab using anything. Eliminates and variations exist.
3 Flared Cracks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4 9 Corkscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1sΩ f5+ u Minuscule Sausage. . . . . . . 2hΩ f5+
The central line is a short problem but potentially a longer fall. Start up the flake and razz around the top of the block to finish
where you started.
w A Face in Profile . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f4+ This dangerous highball merits E2 and could leave you with
more than indigestion. The middle of the wall to the small roof.
The steeper side of the arete from sitting. A standing start
4 Tricky Arete. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f5+ reduces the grade to f3.
i Chippolata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f4+
The short right arete on either side. 0 Corkscrew Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f5
Upper Dart Valley
5 min
The good wall right again is less dangerous.
Haytor Area
The blunt arete right of the chimney - abort right at the roof.
Lustleigh Area
Lustleigh Area
3
Bovey Woods
Bovey Woods
2 4
0
1 p
io
Start Point Area
q w e
7
Torbay Area
Torbay Area
9
6
Outlying Areas
Outlying Areas
5 0
8
62 Down Tor Whaleback Boulder Area Main Area Down Tor 63
Whaleback Boulder Area Whaleback Boulder Main Area r Wall Direct. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f5
ES$
Burrator Area
Burrator Area
The quality increases significantly here - the main The summit of the tor has a series of boulders dotted The wall using cracks to either side.
5 min
Whaleback Boulder is excellent with a collection of good around it. There is a great concentration of bouldering
technical problems.
Approach - Continue along the path east for a further
here with plenty of good easier stuff.
Approach - Continuing along the approach path about
t Diagonal Flakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f4+
Follow the flakes.
300m from Snappers Tor to the fin-shaped profile of the 1km from Norsworthy Bridge brings you to a large
Whaleback Boulder over to the right. The first problems boulder with a prominent, roof - the Great Overhanging
y Pooh Crack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . kΩ f5
North Moor Tors
Chagford Area
finger-rail and then finishing up from this. An aptly named problem up the corner. Watch out for bum
2 Whaleback Right Side . . . . 2tΩ f5 5 skidders on the sit-start.
The right side, using the tiny flake. Photo on cover.
4 q Cheeky Pinch. . . . . . . . . . . . 1wΩ f6A
The rib right of the crack from sitting, passing the crystal pinch. Compact Wall
3 Double Scoop . . . . . . . . . . . 2tΩ f6A 3
The slabby wall via a dish and crystal to finish. Photo p.35.
1 2
w Cheeky Pinch, Standing. . . . . . . . . . Ω f4 ES$ 15 min
Upper Dart Valley
Haytor Area
ES$
ES$ ES$
15 min
Whaleback Boulder
10 min 10 min
t y i
r u
Lustleigh Area
Lustleigh Area
e
0 q
w
9
Bovey Woods
Bovey Woods
7 8
Torbay Area
p.64
be avoided by pulling on further along. Photo p.59.
Outlying Areas
Whaleback Boulder
Approach from
Northsworthy Great Overhanging Boulder
Bridge p.65
64 Down Tor Main Area Main Area Down Tor 65
A slab above and left of the Great Overhanging Boulder. Walking further up the hill above the Twin Offwidth Slab leads to
a decent and impressive wall. Bullet - p.68
Burrator Area
Burrator Area
o Pooh Slab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5+
The slab without using either arete - eliminate but good. h Wafer Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f5 Split Boulder
Start up the left, honk it along the break and finish where you
p Pooh Slab Avec Right Arete. . . . . . . Ω f3+ can step off.
Apex Traverse
p.63 Dragon
An easier version uses the edge of the crack to the right. Undercut Wall Overhanging Wall Fly - p.69
j Undercut Wall Low Traverse - p.63
North Moor Tors
Chagford Area
d Heather Slab. . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5 The left line up the wall, finishing leftward. Great Overhanging Boulder
A pleasing little problem up the slab.
l Wafer Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f5
f Right Hand Offwidth. . . . . . . . . . . . Ω f3 The wall to the right, finishing leftward.
Get involved in the crack.
Scary Top
Upper Dart Valley
Tufted Slabs
Triple Slab
Twin Offwidth Slab
ES$ 15 min
p.67
Lowlife Boulder
Haytor Area
Haytor Area
p.67
100m
h
A prominent bit of rock which is the first boulderable feature you Above the Great Overhanging Boulder are some grass topped
arrive at when approaching from Norsworthy Bridge. slabs with a trio of problems.
Lustleigh Area
Lustleigh Area
; Great Overhang . . . . . . . . . 2pΩ f7A+ c Tufted Left. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tΩ f5+
j A challenging problem comes out from the crack at the back The slab on the left will appeal to slab and tuft lovers alike.
k l of the roof; there's a handy foot jam and a difficult to control
swing. Good luck! v Tufted Central. . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5+
More slabby tuftedness up the middle.
z East Face Top Traverse. . . . . . . . . . . Ω f5
b Tufted Right . . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ f5+
Bovey Woods
Bovey Woods
g Climb the arete and then traverse the top rightward.
o a sd f x East Face Traverse . . . . . . . 1tΩ f6A
The right-hand slab completes an inspired trilogy of creative
naming and descriptions.
p The arete and then traverse the slab rightward from the break.
Tufted Slabs
The slabby east face of the block is home to a few up and
ES$
Start Point Area
x
Torbay Area
Torbay Area
c v b
Compact Wall z
;
Outlying Areas
Outlying Areas
p.63
ES$ 15 min
66 Down Tor Main Area Main Area Down Tor 67
ES$
Burrator Area
Burrator Area
15 min
The Cavern
Triple Slab
North Moor Tors
Chagford Area
n .
/!
Upper Dart Valley
Haytor Area
Lustleigh Area
Lustleigh Area
Moving across the hillside to the right of the Great Overhanging Continuing rightward from the Pyramid Block are a few short
Boulder leads to The Cavern. slabs punctuated by cracks. The first problem follows a The next problem is found on a low block 30m to the right Lowlife Boulder
n Step Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f5
delightful crack to the left of the slabs. (south east) of the Triple Slab.
ES$ 15 min
The face left of the arete features a step up! @ Minging Crack. . . . . . . . 1pkΩ f5+ ( Lowlife Traverse. . 2gswΩ f6C
A real delight for lovers of the ming - the star is for its fetish From the low flake gain and traverse the lip leftward to mantel
Bovey Woods
Bovey Woods
m Pyramid Block Arete . . . . . . . . 1Ω f3+ appeal! It's often wet but, as luck would have it, it's still on the left.
Climbed on either side. climbable if you're so inclined.
Torbay Area
reduces the grade to f5. Eliminate the cracks and finish leftward. Pyramid Block
Outlying Areas
Great Overhanging Boulder
p.65
68 Down Tor Main Area Main Area Down Tor 69
Rippled Slab Down Tor summit Overhanging Wall
ES$ TS$
Burrator Area
Burrator Area
Overhanging Wall
20 min 20 min
Scary Top
North Moor Tors
Q
Chagford Area
Chagford Area
Approach from E O
Undercut Wall W
Facing the Undercut Wall walk rightward in the general direct of Y D
W Pyramid Slab Arete . . . . . . . . . 1Ω f3
Upper Dart Valley
Haytor Area
avenue, is the northwest-facing Overhanging Wall.
Up the cracks in the right side of the wall using anything.
Facing Pyramid Slab, this is the high, stepped boulder over to
the right. Y Pagan Poetry . . . . 3pswΩ f7A P Overhanging Arete. . . . . . . . . . 2Ω f6B
A tough left-to-right traverse starting along the low break then
The arete on the right with the same finish as Pagan Poetry.
R Scary Top . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hgΩ f5 rising up to a hard finish on the right arete.
Lustleigh Area
Lustleigh Area
An enjoyable start leads to a frightening finish.
U Mikey's Dyno. . . . . . . . . 1owΩ f6C A Inclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1hΩ f5
A sharp landing which requires a few pads. The line right of the
Climb from the low crack to a crimp/pocket about 2m right of
ES$ 20 min
Rippled Slab
the left arete.
overhanging prow finishing leftward.
Bovey Woods
positive holds to a troublesome finish.
D Rik's Little Arete. . . . . . . . . . . . wΩ f5
Good moves but rather small. Sit start with feet on the block.
R
ES$
Start Point Area
ES$ 20 min
Wall.
Torbay Area
Torbay Area
T Bullet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2pwΩ f6A+ The eastern side of the tor is home to quite a bit of rock, most
of which is disappointing to the boulderer. There are a few
An excellent little problem. From jams in the low break gain a
problems dotted around the higher walls to the east side of
hold on the lip and finish above. Photo p.40.
the summit - left to your own discovery. Dragon Fly is a more
significant problem and is found further down the hillside
among a few more features the intrepid may be interested in.
Outlying Areas
Outlying Areas
F
F Dragon Fly. . . . . . . . . . . 2pwΩ f6C
T An excellent problem although the top out tends to be a bit
dirty. Sit start with a foot lock in the break.
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