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© Anand Parmar

Fairtrade Textile Standard

Current version: 22.03.2016_v1.4

Expected date of next review: 2024

Contact for comments: standards-pricing@fairtrade.net

For further information and standards downloads:


www.fairtrade.net/standards.html
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Content
Introduction _______________________________________________________________________ 3
Purpose ________________________________________________________________________ 3
Theory of Change _________________________________________________________________ 3
References ______________________________________________________________________ 5
How to use this Standard ___________________________________________________________ 5
Implementation ___________________________________________________________________ 6
Application ______________________________________________________________________ 7
Definitions _______________________________________________________________________ 7
Monitoring of changes _____________________________________________________________ 9
Change history ___________________________________________________________________ 9
1. General requirements and commitment to Fairtrade __________________________________ 11
1.1 Commitment to Fairtrade ______________________________________________________ 11
1.2 Compliance Committee _______________________________________________________ 12
1.3 Audit access and transparency__________________________________________________ 14
1.4 Management systems _________________________________________________________ 16
2. Social Development _____________________________________________________________ 18
2.1 Capacity Building of Workers ___________________________________________________ 18
3. Labour Conditions ______________________________________________________________ 20
3.1 Freedom from Discrimination ___________________________________________________ 20
3.2 Freedom from Forced and Compulsory Labour _____________________________________ 22
3.3 Child Labour and Child Protection _______________________________________________ 22
3.4 Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining __________________________________ 24
3.5 Conditions of Employment: wages, benefits and working hours ________________________ 28
3.6 Occupational Health and Safety _________________________________________________ 35
4. Environmental Responsibility _____________________________________________________ 41
4.1 Management of hazardous substances ___________________________________________ 41
4.2 Wastewater _________________________________________________________________ 42
4.3 Emissions to air______________________________________________________________ 43
4.4 Energy Consumption _________________________________________________________ 44
4.5 Waste _____________________________________________________________________ 44
4.6 Environmental management system _____________________________________________ 45
5. Trade _________________________________________________________________________ 45
5.1 Traceability _________________________________________________________________ 45
5.2 Product Composition and Sourcing ______________________________________________ 46
5.3 Contracts ___________________________________________________________________ 47
5.4 Purchasing seed cotton _______________________________________________________ 48
5.5 Use of Fairtrade trademarks and communication ____________________________________ 50
5.6 Requirements for brand owners _________________________________________________ 51
Annex 1 Prohibited Materials List for Textiles (PMLT) ___________________________________ 53
Annex 2 Responsible Fibre Criteria ___________________________________________________ 62
Annex 3 Freedom of Association Protocol _____________________________________________ 63
Annex 4 Green-Button-Standard: Process and Requirements for the Recognition of
Certification Labels (Meta-label approach), last checked 26 May 2024 ___________________ 65
Annex 5 STeP by OEKO‑TEX® extract, last checked 7 June 2024: _________________________ 69

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Introduction

Purpose
Fairtrade is a strategy that aims to promote sustainable development and to reduce poverty through fairer
trade. The purpose of the Fairtrade Textile Standard is to set the requirements that determine participation
in the Fairtrade system that applies to workers along the entire textile supply chain, guaranteeing them a
decent living and empowering them to combat poverty, strengthen their position and to take more control
of their lives. The requirements ensure that employers pay living wages, guarantee the right to join trade
unions, and make certain that health, safety and environmental principles are adhered to.

The Fairtrade standards also apply to the terms of trade through the Fairtrade Trader Standard and through
licensing contracts between Fairtrade International and brands and partners trading in textile products.

Theory of Change
A Theory of Change describes the change that an initiative such as Fairtrade wishes to see in the world
and its understanding of how it will contribute to that change. Below (Figure 1) provides an overview of
Fairtrade’s Theory of Change, highlighting the aspects most relevant for the Fairtrade Textile Standard.
More information about Fairtrade’s Theory of Change can be found on Fairtrade International’s webpage.

Fairtrade aims to support small-scale producers and workers who are marginalized from the benefits of
trade. Fairtrade’s vision is a world in which all small producers and workers can enjoy secure and
sustainable livelihoods, fulfil their potential and decide on their future. To fulfil this vision, Fairtrade has
identified three long-term goals1:
• Make trade fair
• Empower small producers and workers
• Foster sustainable livelihoods.
To achieve its goals, Fairtrade aims to bring about simultaneous change in four spheres:
• Small producer and worker organizations
• Supply chain business practices
• Consumer behaviour
• Civil society action
The Fairtrade Textile Standard is one component of the Fairtrade approach to facilitating change in the
textile supply chains. The standard engages producers and workers in the chain, while Fairtrade engages
brands to commit to fair terms of trade through license contracts.

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There are clear linkages and inter-dependencies between the three goals of Fairtrade. In particular, the combination of making
trade fair and empowering small producers and workers is understood to be essential for the achievement of sustainable
livelihoods.

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Figure 1

FAIRTRADE VISION
A world in which all small producers and workers can enjoy secure and
sustainable livelihoods, fulfil their potential & decide on their future

Goal 1: Goal 2: Goal 3:


MAKE TRADE FAIR EMPOWER WORKERS FOSTER
& SMALL PRODUCERS SUSTAINABLE
LIVELIHOODS
INCREASING INFLUENCE OF CONTEXTUAL FACTORS

Unintended impacts Unintended impacts

Supply Civil
Producers
chains CHANGE Consumers
society
Interactions with Context

ESTABLISHING RULES ENABLING ENGAGEMENT


FOR FAIRTRADE IN FAIRTRADE

ACCOUNTABILITY &
GOOD GROWTH WITH
CONTINUAL
GOVERNANCE INTEGRITY
IMPROVEMENT

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References
When setting the Fairtrade Standards, Fairtrade International follows certain internationally recognized
standards and conventions, in particular those of the International Labour Organization (ILO). Fairtrade
has a rigorous standard operating procedure for setting Fairtrade standards, which can be found here.
This procedure is designed in compliance with the ISEAL Code of Good Practice for Setting Social and
Environmental Standards.

Fairtrade International requires that companies always abide by national legislation on the topics covered
by this standard whenever the legislation sets higher requirements than this standard. The same applies
to regional and sector-specific practices. Fairtrade International promotes the rights of freedom of
association and collective bargaining as the foundation of ensuring workers’ rights, and considers
independent and democratic trade unions the best means for achieving this.

How to use this Standard


Scope and assurance
This standard is the Fairtrade Textile Standard and your company must comply with it in order to produce
and buy Fairtrade textiles.

This standard applies to operators employing hired workers in the textile supply chain processing Fairtrade
certified cotton and other responsible fibres. This includes, but is not restricted to, ginners, spinning,
weaving, knitting, and cut-make-trim stages of textile production. This standard is applicable in countries
and regions where freedom of association is possible2. Non-essential elements and accessories are not
included in the scope of this standard.

This standard also applies to brand owners purchasing finished textiles. The brand owner must have a
contract with the relevant National Fairtrade Organization or Fairtrade International.

The method of assurance that is chosen to assess compliance with this standard is related to the role of
the company in the supply chain and therefore the number and kind of requirements to be complied with:
• Operators employing hired workers in the supply chain must be certified and are therefore
subject to physical audits.
• Brand owners purchasing finished textile products (buyers) must be verified and are therefore
exempted from physical audits, unless deemed necessary, and are monitored through
effective reporting tools.
All certified operators must also comply with requirements in sections 1.2 and 2.1 the Fairtrade Trader
Standard. In cases where the Textile Standard differs from the Trader Standard, the requirements
presented in this standard apply.

The requirements of this standard are addressed to “you” and “your company” as the Fairtrade certificate
owner and responsible party for compliance with the standard.

Chapters
The Fairtrade Textile Standard is comprised of 4 chapters:

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Details on the Fairtrade Geographical Scope Policy for the Fairtrade Textile Standard are available on our website.

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• The General Requirements and Commitment to Fairtrade chapter sets the requirements
related to the certification process and to the scope of the standard, including commitment to
Fairtrade.
• The Social Development / Capacity Building of Workers chapter consists of requirements
intended to lay the foundations for empowerment and development, focussing on worker
capacity building.
• The requirements in Labour Conditions are intended to ensure decent working conditions.
• The Environmental Responsibility chapter requirements intend to make certain that
company practices and operations contribute to a more sustainable production system.
• The requirements in the Trade chapter define what must be done when you process product
in a Fairtrade textile supply chain and include requirements for buyers of seed cotton and for
brand owners.
Structure
In each chapter and section of the Standard you will find:
• The intent which introduces and describes the objective and defines the scope of application
of that chapter or section.
• The requirements specify the rules that your company must adhere to. Your company will be
audited according to these requirements.
• The guidance provided to help you to interpret the requirements. The guidance offers best
practices, suggestions, and examples of how to comply with the requirements. It also gives
you further explanation on the requirements with the rationale and/or intention behind them.
Your company will not be audited against guidance.
Requirements
In this Standard you will find two different types of requirements:
• Core requirements which reflect Fairtrade principles and all of which must be complied with.
These are indicated with the term ’Core’ found in the column on the left throughout the
standard.
• Development requirements which refer to the continuous improvements that you must make
on average against a scoring system (and also which set the minimum average thresholds)
defined by the certification body. These are indicated with the term ’Dev’ found in the column
on the left throughout the standard.
You are in compliance with the Fairtrade Textile Standard if your company fulfils all core requirements and
reaches the minimum score on the development requirements as defined by the certification body. For
more information on how your company will be audited against the core and development requirements,
please see the certification body’s website, www.flo-cert.net.

Each requirement is assigned a number (0, 1, 3 or 6). This number represents the number of years your
company has until it is audited against the requirement.

Implementation
The certification body develops technical compliance criteria for use during audits and for making
certification decisions. These compliance criteria follow the wording and objectives of the requirements in
this standard. Fairtrade International provides explanatory documents which contain further information
related to this standard. These documents can be found on the Fairtrade International website:

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www.fairtrade.net. Your company will not be audited against the explanatory documents. Senior
management of the company is responsible for implementation of this standard.

Application
This first version of the Fairtrade Textile Standard is published 22 March 2016 and applicable from 1 June
2016. The timelines indicated in requirements refer to the number of years after first certification.

Definitions
Definitions for key terms are listed below. These include current definitions of industry terms as used by
Fairtrade and the certification body. Additional trade-related terms are found in the Fairtrade Trader
Standard.

Accessory suppliers are companies that deliver non-textile components (e.g., zippers, buttons), to the
textile supply chain.

The brand owner is the company that markets and sells the finished certified textile products under its
name for retail or wholesale sales. The brand may or may not be the owner of the production units.

A collective bargaining agreement (CBA) is a written, legally enforceable contract for a specified period,
between the management of a company and its employees represented by an independent trade union. It
sets down and defines conditions of employment (e.g., wages, working hours, overtime payments,
holidays, vacations, benefits, etc.) and procedures for dispute resolution.

A company or operator is defined as all production units (enterprises) and premises involved in the certified
textile supply chain.

A composite textile product is a product composed of two or more different fibre components.

Contract is a written agreement between two or more parties.

Contract worker is a person who is not hired directly by the company or production unit the person is
working for, but by a contractor and third party service provider of the company.

Delegate system is a method of selecting worker representatives intended to ensure representation of all
workers, particularly used with a large workforce.

Elected worker representatives are workers who are democratically elected to represent and defend the
rights of the workers in the company.

Essential elements of a textile product are all parts that constitute the main product or garment.
Accessories, decoration, trim, edging, lining, stitching and inserts such as buttons, buckles, collars, filling
and panels are considered non-essential elements.

Fairtrade eligible means a product is produced in compliance with Fairtrade Standards, but the buyer buys
it under normal conditions. The Fairtrade price adjustment and Premium are only paid if the buyer sells the
product as Fairtrade.

Fairtrade supply chain is a supply chain in which each entity has Fairtrade certification against either the
Fairtrade Textile Standard or Fibre Crop Standard, together with the Fairtrade Trader Standard.

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Fibre is a natural or manmade substance that can be spun into filament, thread or rope and in a next step
be woven, knitted, matted or bound.

Force Majeure is a clause used in contracts to release a party from a contractual obligation in the event of
a situation occurring that is not under its control, such as an act of war, civil commotion, strike and
exceptionally severe weather.

Forced labour - Forced or compulsory labour is any work or service which is exacted from any person
under the menace of any penalty and for which the said person has not offered himself voluntarily.

General Assembly (GA) is a gathering of all workers in a work place generally for the purpose of
disseminating information or voting.

GOTS is the Global Organic Textile Standard.

Lead time is the total amount of time required for completing a product, beginning from the date of receiving
the order to the shipment of the goods to customer.

Licensee is a company licensed by a National Fairtrade Organization or Fairtrade International to use the
Fairtrade Mark.

Licensing Body is the agent which draws up and signs a licence contract with a licensee. In countries
where a national Fairtrade organization (NFO) is located, the NFO serves as the Licensing Body. In non-
NFO countries, Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International e.V. serves as the Licensing Body.

Living wage is the remuneration received for a standard work week by a worker in a particular place
sufficient to afford a decent standard of living for the worker and her or his family. Elements of a decent
standard of living include food, water, housing, education, health care, transport, clothing, and other
essential needs including provision for unexpected events.

Migrant worker is a person who moves from one area within their own country or across the borders to
another country for employment. For purposes of interpreting requirements in this standard, a migrant
worker works for a limited period of time in the region migrated to. Workers are not considered migrant
after living one year or more in the region where they work, and if either a permanent position has been
granted by the employer or legal permanent resident status has been granted.

Non-regular work is sporadic work that is considered to be outside of the core functions necessary for
regular operations of the company.

Piece-work is any type of employment for which a worker is paid a fixed piece rate for each unit produced
or action performed regardless of time.

Regular work refers to tasks that are stable and ongoing in industrial production, excluding all seasonal
work.

Responsible fibres are more environmentally friendly and/or socially beneficial than other comparable,
common fibres with same material composition.

A Secondary Product is a product that comes out of a production process in addition to the main product.
A secondary product can be a by-product, a co-product or a residue.

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A small company is defined as having fewer than 20 fulltime workers.

Subcontractor/subcontracted unit is an individual or company that provides processing and/or


manufacturing services on behalf of an operator but does not take legal ownership of the product.

Temporary worker is a person who works at the company on a non-regular, short-term basis. The work by
its character is performed only during part of the year and is dependent on textile peak seasons, temporary
high demand, and other non-regular or exceptional circumstances.

Textile Suppliers are companies that deliver textile products through the certified textile supply chain.

A trade union is a permanent organization established to represent workers, including through collective
bargaining over the terms and conditions of their work. The legitimacy of a trade union is determined by
the extent that it is independent and controlled by its members.

Workers are defined as all workers including migrant, temporary, sub-contracted and permanent workers.
‘Workers’ includes all hired labour personnel, such as employees working in the company’s administration.
However, the term is restricted to personnel that can be unionised and therefore normally excludes middle
and senior management.

Monitoring of changes
Fairtrade International may amend Fairtrade Standards as explained in Fairtrade International’s Standard
Operating Procedures, see www.fairtrade.net/setting-the-standards.html. Fairtrade Standard
requirements can be added, deleted, or changed. If you are Fairtrade certified, you are required to
regularly check the Fairtrade International website for changes to the Standards. Fairtrade certification
insures that you comply with Fairtrade Standards. Changes to Fairtrade Standards may change the
requirements of Fairtrade certification. If you wish to be or are already Fairtrade certified, you are required
to regularly check the compliance criteria and certification policies on the certification body’s website at
www.flo-cert.net.

Change history
Version number Date of publication Changes
22.03.2016_v1.0 22.03.2016 First publication of standard
22.03.2016_v.1.1 10.10.2016 Change in terminology from sustainable fibres to responsible
fibres.
Add clarity to 3.5.3, that at least a living wage is paid.
22.03.2016_v1.2 04.09.2019 Requirement on chemical residues testing (4.1.3) added.
22.03.2016_v1.3 22.05.2023 Guidance on requirement 3.6.28 added
22.03.2016_v1.4 19.06.2024 Added 2 new requirements:
4.2.3 Certification accepted by Green Button for wet
processing
4.2.4 Informing wet processing supplier
Added 2 annexes:

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Green Button requirements, extract


Oekotex STeP requirements, extract

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1. General requirements and


commitment to Fairtrade
Intent: This chapter outlines the requirements that relate to certification, determines the conditions for
participation in the Fairtrade system under this standard and sets out the necessary framework for its
effective implementation. This includes commitment to Fairtrade values and to a transparent process and
management system for evaluating the complete textile supply chain.

1.1 Commitment to Fairtrade


Intent: To ensure all operators producing Fairtrade products are committed to Fairtrade values and have
transparent processes and management systems for evaluating their complete textile supply chain.

1.1.1 Mission statement and performance indicators

Dev In order to demonstrate commitment to Fairtrade, your company’s mission statement or


policy includes:
Year 3
• measures on how continuous improvement of social and sustainable production
practices is implemented in your company;
• a statement on your commitment to achieve the aims and values of Fairtrade;
• how workers are informed about commitment to Fairtrade;
• Fairtrade goals which are included in measurable key performance indicators for the
CEO and senior management of your company.

Guidance: Your company is expected to make positive social and economic contributions beyond legal obligations. Key
performance indicators can be included in your corporate social responsibility (CSR) action plan if you have one.

1.1.2 Commitment to Fairtrade displayed

Core Your company displays its commitment to Fairtrade in a public workplace and ensures that all
workers are aware of this commitment by posting it in languages or pictograms
Year 0 understandable to all workers.

Guidance: This includes workers who speak languages other than the main languages of the work place and illiterate workers.

1.1.3 Fairtrade Officer

Core Your company appoints a person responsible for Fairtrade matters, called the Fairtrade
Officer, who is responsible for overall co-ordination of Fairtrade matters in your company and
Year 0 for handling all necessary Fairtrade related communications. The Fairtrade Officer reports
directly to or is part of the senior management.
The tasks of the Fairtrade Officer must be included in the job description and employment
contract and include:

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• acting as a liaison between Fairtrade International, the certification body, workers and
managers regarding Fairtrade matters;
• ensuring compliance, implementation and monitoring of the company’s performance
regarding the Fairtrade requirements;
• acting as the management representative on the Fairtrade Committee (1.2.2).
The Fairtrade Officer has the relevant knowledge and experience to perform these tasks.

Guidance: The Fairtrade Officer does not have to be hired exclusively to carry out these tasks and may have other duties and
responsibilities within the company.

1.2 Compliance Committee


1.2.1 Compliance committee purpose

Core A Compliance Committee (CC) is created with the purpose of engaging the workers in the
implementation of the requirements in this standard.
Year 1
The tasks of the CC include, but are not limited to:
• facilitating quarterly internal audits by meeting and consulting with workers to identify
and prioritize areas of potential and actual non-conformance with this standard;
• conducting annual risk assessments;
• reporting on internal audits and risk assessments to senior management (see 1.4.1 for
internal audit policies and procedures);
• disseminating internal audit results and results of the risk assessments to workers
through written communication and at an annual general (GA) assembly of workers;
• supporting workers in understanding the grievance procedure and using it when
necessary (see 1.4.5). Anonymity is necessary when supporting workers with the
grievance procedure;
• designating one or more member(s) as Health and Safety representative(s) (see req.
1.2.4);
• recommending and prioritizing actions with time lines to senior management to
address these risks.

Guidance: The Compliance Committee tasks may be undertaken by already established committees present in the workplace.
Input from workers can be collected through meetings or in written form.

1.2.2 Compliance Committee composition

Core The Compliance Committee consists of at least 4 members. At least three quarters of the
members are trade union/democratically-elected worker representatives and maximum one
Year 1 quarter are appointed management representatives (see also: ToR in 1.2.4 and CC meetings
defined in 1.2.7 – 1.2.8).
The composition of the CC reflects the composition of the workforce, taking into account
gender as well as type of work and rank. A current list of CC members is posted and
accessible to all workers in the workplace. Worker members shall be chosen by the factory’s

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trade union, if present, and by democratic election among the workers where there is no trade
union present.

Guidance: In case a workplace is unionized (over half the workforce belongs to trade unions), the trade union representatives
may take on all or some of the responsibilities outlined for the CC. Trade union representatives in the CC are working in the same
facility where they represent workers. Where there is more than one trade union representing workers, this role is shared by the
unions representing the majority of workers.
In cases where the union(s) does not appoint a representative or the organization is not unionized, workers may freely elect
worker representatives for this committee. Non-trade union elected worker representatives do not in any way substitute for a trade
union representative.

1.2.3 Compliance Committee role in relationship to trade

Dev The Compliance Committee provides relevant input on workplace challenges in relation to
trade to brand owners and to next operator in certified supply.
Year 3

Guidance: “Relevant” will be defined by Fairtrade International in a template that may or may not be used, as long as the report is
equivalent. Fairtrade International will provide support through the Fairtrade Textile Programme to CC trade union/worker
representatives towards the fulfilment of this requirement. Management is expected to make buyer details available to the CC in
order to facilitate the process.

1.2.4 Compliance Committee terms of reference

Core The Compliance Committee has and follows terms of reference defining:
• the aims of the Committee;
Year 1
• the composition (who are the members);
• how worker members of the Committee are elected or appointed if members of a trade
union;
• procedures of the committee determining at least: terms of office, frequency and dates
of meetings (see req. 1.2.7), documentation, and which reports should be delivered;
• internal regulations, and responsibilities;
• a delegate system for the General Assembly (GA) of workers where applicable;
• how the interests of migrant and seasonal/temporary workers are taken into account.

Guidance: The CC will strive to reach decision by consensus, but in the absence of consensus, decisions will be made by
majority vote. Details on how make decisions by consensus are provided in the explanatory document. Fairtrade will provide a
sample template for the CC ToR.

1.2.5 Compliance Committee training

Core Your company arranges and ensures that all CC members and/or trade union/worker
representatives are trained to carry out their duties, including how to conduct internal audits
Year 1 and basic risk assessments in compliance with this standard. Trainings take place by
Fairtrade International approved trainers or Fairtrade field staff or affiliates.

Guidance: A help desk for new CC members where current and/or former members offer support and training is recommended.

1.2.6 Compliance Committee designates Health and Safety representatives

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Core
If there is no elected union representative on the Health and Safety (H&S) committee, the CC
Year 0 designates one or more members as the H&S representative(s).
Their duties are to liaise between the H&S Officer, the CC, trade union representatives and
workers on-site, acting as a point of contact for workers on H&S matters (see requirement
3.6.3).
The management provides the H&S representatives with the necessary training and
information to undertake their tasks.

1.2.7 Compliance Committee meetings

Core The CC meets regularly, at least every 3 months during working hours.

Year 0 Minutes are taken at these meetings and approved by all meeting participants and posted
publically in the workplace in a format and language accessible to all workers.

Guidance: These meetings should be integrated with other relevant certification and compliance processes that the company has.

1.2.8 Compliance Committee time and resources

Core Your company allocates time during regular working hours and provides necessary resources
for the CC to successfully carry out its work. Resources may include but are not limited to:
Year 0 private facilities to meet, and office space to keep equipment and lockable files.
Compensation is made for piece-rate workers and other similarly compensated work for time
spent on Fairtrade implementation.

Guidance: CC meetings may be held off-site if agreed by all members.

1.3 Audit access and transparency


1.3.1 Accepting audits

Core Your company accepts announced and unannounced audits of your premises, including all
certified production units, and also contractually requires subcontracted premises to accept
Year 0 audits of their premises.
You provide all necessary information in relation to Fairtrade Standards as requested by the
certification body.

1.3.2 Subcontractors registered

Core You register all subcontractors used for the production of the Fairtrade certified goods with the
certification body. Outsourcing any portion of the work for Fairtrade production is not
Year 0 permitted without informing the certification body.
When you start working with a new subcontractor, you register the NEW subcontractor with
the certification body.

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Guidance: A subcontractor or subcontracted unit is an individual or company that provides processing and/or manufacturing
services on behalf of an operator but does not take legal ownership of the product. See requirement 1.4.2. Second-tier
subcontracting by the prime subcontractor is not permitted.

1.3.3 Participation of worker representatives in audits

Core At least one trade union/elected worker representative(s) or CC worker member participates
in the audits, as well as opening and closing the meetings in order to increase worker
Year 1 involvement and understanding in the process of compliance.
Worker participation in audits takes place during working time and it is ensured that workers
do not lose income.

Guidance: Management enables participation of workers in audits.

1.3.4 Sharing audit results with workers

Core Your company shares audit results with workers through trade union/elected worker
representatives (or CC members) following each audit in a way that workers understand
Year 1 these results.
Time is allowed for trade union/elected worker representatives to be able to understand the
audit report and to inform and explain the final results to all workers. This takes place during
working time and it is ensured that workers do not lose income.

1.3.5 Workers involved in closing compliance gaps

Core Trade union/elected worker representative(s) or CC worker members participate in finding


solutions to correcting any non-compliance.
Year 1

Guidance: Management is encouraged to take suggestions on board, and if suggestions are rejected there should be
understandable rationale that is communicated to worker representatives.

1.3.6 Fairtrade International allowed to interact with workers

Core Your company allows Fairtrade International representatives to interact with workers to train
and discuss matters related to Fairtrade as needed, without interference or presence of
Year 0 management representatives, whether on the premises or off-site.
Meetings with workers and Fairtrade International representatives take place during regular
work time and for piece-workers, respective reimbursement is made to ensure that workers
do not lose income.

Guidance: Fairtrade International representatives include Fairtrade liaison officers, representatives of producer networks and
national Fairtrade organizations. These representatives should be able to convene with workers at their and/or at workers’ request
and in coordination with management. Regular work should not be disrupted.

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1.4 Management systems


1.4.1 Performance monitoring procedures

Core Your company has internal auditing policies and procedures in place designed to monitor
compliance and assess the company’s performance with the requirements in this standard.
Year 1
The responsibilities and role of the management and Compliance Committee representatives
are defined in your internal auditing procedures. Your company makes these policies and
procedures publicly available.

Guidance: The Fairtrade Officer will act as CC management representative and is responsible for carrying out internal audit
procedures with the trade union/elected worker representatives (see 1.2.1).

1.4.2 Ensuring subcontractor compliance

Core Your company has procedures in place that enables you to evaluate your suppliers in order to
have full insight and assess risks in the working conditions in your supply chain. The
Year 1 procedures ensure that current and new suppliers and subcontractors comply with
requirement 1.4.4 (grievance procedure), and the Labour Conditions and Environmental
Responsibility requirements, chapters 3 and 4 in this Standard.
The minimum actions your company must undertake to fulfil this requirement include:
• Effectively communicate the requirements of this standard to senior leadership of
suppliers, commissioned operators and subcontracted sites;
• Assess significant risks of non-conformance by these entities;
• Make efforts to ensure that these significant risks are effectively addressed by these
entities and your company;
Your company records how these actions are fulfilled.

Guidance: This requirement is in line with the due diligence approach by the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human
Rights. A coherent monitoring programme includes factory audits, self-assessments by the suppliers, a complaints procedure that
involves workers in the monitoring of working conditions in the factory, and factory visits by affiliate company representatives.
The certification body will define the frequency of auditing. Costs of these audits are born by the Fairtrade certificate holder unless
otherwise agreed between the certificate holder and subcontracted unit.

1.4.3 Improved planning to reduce subcontracting

Dev Improved planning methods, such as critical path planning to reduce reliance on
subcontracting, are developed in collaboration with your buyers.
Year 3

1.4.4 Grievance procedure

Core Your company has a grievance procedure in place, which:


• allows workers and third parties to file complaints directly and anonymously;
Year 0
• protects workers who file complaints from retaliation;
• ensures issues are resolved, remediation is implemented in a timely manner, and
complainants updated about the ongoing resolution;

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• ensures that complaints received are forwarded to the certifying body in order to
publish details about the status and resolution online;
• entitles workers to representation by their trade union or other council of their
choosing;
• allows for an appeals process by the complainant;
• includes documentation of all disputes;
• includes a procedure for cases of sexual harassment.
Your company must ensure that workers are fully aware and understand the procedure and
are aware that they have the right to be heard and the right to appeal to an independent party
(see 1.4.5). The procedure is implemented, communicated and introduced to workers
adequately, in a way that they have easy access, full confidence (anonymity) and no
psychological hurdles (self-consciousness) the use of this instrument.
Your company does not discipline, dismiss or discriminate in any way against workers for
using any grievance procedure.
Grievances regarding sexual harassment are designated to specially appointed women or
women’s committees, linked to a female senior manager when possible, and with direct
access to the Chief Executive. The same principles apply in case of sexual harassment of
groups other than women. This grievance procedure must be in accordance with national
legislation where applicable.

Guidance: A grievance procedure is a procedure for conflict resolution. Conflict resolution should be done through regular
industrial relations processes. Trade union/worker representatives should be trained on this procedure and play an active role in
putting the procedure in place.

1.4.5 Grievance handlers

Dev The Compliance Committee determines one or two local ‘grievance handlers’, individuals who
are part of the local civil society, i.e., a local trade union or workers’ rights NGO to aid workers
Year 3 in filing and reconciling complaints to supplement the company grievance mechanism.
The grievance handler(s) must be:
• the same gender as the majority of the workforce. The CC can also determine one
male and one female grievance handler;
• in regular contact with, accessible to, and trusted by the workers;
• made publicly known through the Fairtrade International website.
The process:
1. Grievances are filed with the grievance handler(s), by workers, or a third party if the
company grievance procedure has not addressed a grievance sufficiently according to the
complainant.
2. The grievance handler discusses the received complaint with the CC (within the same
week of issue, but depending on the urgency of the matter may be faster).
3. The CC and grievance handler decide
(a) if the complaint is justified,

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(b) the timeline for resolving the complaint, and


(c) the main steps to be taken to agree on a solution.
4. The CC forwards the filed issue and the defined solution to the certification body.
Fairtrade International will publish the complaint in a list with current complaints (including
information on: date, nature of complaint, factory, country, complainant, Fairtrade
International certified buyers from this factory, status of resolution).
5. The grievance handler and CC hears both sides of the complaint and ensures that the
issue is resolved timely in such a way that both sides agree upon.

Guidance: Collaboration with Fair Wear Foundation grievance processes is recommended where applicable as best practice.

2. Social Development
Intent: This section intends to ensure the support of workers through the strengthening of their individual
skills, competencies and abilities. Additionally, this section intends that workers at all levels in the
company are aware of the benefits of Fairtrade, and of the commitment that is required by your company
to engage in Fairtrade.
Benefits of Fairtrade include measurable wage increases, worker empowerment through active
involvement in compliance and monitoring of the workplace against this standard, and committed trade
partners.

2.1 Capacity Building of Workers


2.1.1 Workers awareness about labour rights

Core Your company ensures that all workers know their labour rights and duties.

Year 1

Guidance: Information can be displayed publically in the workplace, through meetings in a general assembly of workers or in
smaller sessions led by trade union/worker representatives or other implementation partners or NGOs approved by Fairtrade.

2.1.2 Worker awareness of Fairtrade

Core Your company raises awareness about Fairtrade at all levels, that is senior and middle
management, supervisors, and skilled and unskilled workers, including permanent, migrant
Year 1 and temporary workers, ensuring that all workers understand the benefits of Fairtrade, and
the different functions, duties and positions of Fairtrade related committees and elected
worker representatives.
Your company ensures that the management, including supervisors, understands the
implications of Fairtrade for the company’s operations (e.g., time needed for meetings during
working hours).

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Guidance: ‘All levels’ includes senior and middle management, supervisors, workers including migrant and temporary workers
and their representatives (e.g., unions, committees).

2.1.3 Training on labour legislation and negotiation

Core Your company ensures that trade union/elected worker representatives are trained on labour
legislation and negotiation skills.
Year 3
Training takes place during working hours and on an annual basis.
Your company records all training activities. Records include information on topics, time,
duration, names of attendees and trainers.

Guidance: Training for workers is essential in order to achieve empowerment. Training can be provided by trade unions,
Fairtrade International, or other relevant external organizations

2.1.4 Skill development

Dev Your company provides opportunities to workers and staff to develop appropriate personal
skills and/or professional qualifications.
Year 3

Guidance: Trainings and other employee development programmes should focus on improving conditions of work and/or the
position of all groups in the workforce.

2.1.5 Women focussed training and capacity building

Core Your company provides training, capacity building, guidance, encouragement and assistance
to and for women employees in order to ensure their professional development.
Year 1

2.1.6 Achieving equity

Dev Your company undertakes activities to achieve equity in the workplace. This includes
specifically addressing the employment and promotion of suitably qualified people from
Year 3 disadvantaged and minority groups.

Guidance: ‘Equity’ means fairness or justice in the way people are treated. The aim of this requirement is to eliminate
employment barriers for disadvantaged people such as persons with disabilities and members of minority groups.
Disadvantaged or minority groups include people who are discriminated against because of their ability, religion, gender, race,
age, class, sexual orientation or anything similar, and who have little or no means of influence in matters affecting them, the
community at large and/or the employment place. This can include religious minorities, people who cannot read or write, people
with disabilities, children, youth, women, migrants, people of colour, gay, lesbian, or transgender people.
Examples of activities to support an equitable workplace include: education and professional training for women, other
disadvantaged people and minority groups, to help qualify them to take up more advanced positions; policies and practices to
ensure that barriers are eliminated; appropriate representation of all groups in the workforce at all levels.

2.1.7 Crèche facilities

Dev Your company provides adequate crèche facilities for your workers’ children up to 6 years of
age either on or off your premises where needed.
Year 3

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Guidance: Adequate facilities means that they are structurally safe, secure and hygienic according to national standards, and that
the ratio of care providers to children is in accordance with national legislation.

3. Labour Conditions
Intent: This section intends to ensure decent working conditions in your company. Fairtrade International
regards the 1998 ILO Declaration on Fundamental Principles and Rights at Work, as well as all other
applicable ILO Conventions as references for decent working conditions. Guidelines for responsible
business conduct and a company’s duty to ensure decent working conditions are outlined in the OECD
Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises and the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights,
respectively.
If your company has a completely separate business unrelated to Fairtrade production, then the
requirements in this section do not apply to that business. Nevertheless Fairtrade International expects
that all your operations unrelated to Fairtrade are also conducted in a way that upholds national law,
including international human rights treaties ratified by your government. Therefore, if Fairtrade
International identifies or receives information on any violation of rights of children or vulnerable adults,
this will trigger Fairtrade’s internal protection procedures that include reporting to relevant national
protection bodies.
All requirements in this chapter also apply to subcontractors and subcontracted units.

3.1 Freedom from Discrimination


Intent: This section intends to prevent discrimination against all workers, permanent, temporary or migrant,
and sub-contracted, on all aspects of employment. Freedom from discrimination is based on the ILO
Declaration on Fundamental Principles and Rights at work, ILO Conventions C100 (Equal Remuneration),
C111 (Employment and Occupation Convention) C183 (Maternity Protection Convention) and ILO
Recommendation R111 (Discrimination (Employment and Occupation) Recommendation); and to ensure
the fair treatment of migrant workers based on the ILO Conventions C97 (Migration for Employment
Convention) and C143 (Migrant Workers (Supplementary Provisions Convention).
Freedom from inhumane disciplinary practices in this section is founded in the following UN declarations
and instruments: Universal Declaration of Human Rights (1948), International Covenant on Civil and
Political Rights (1966), Convention against Torture and Other Cruel, Inhuman or Degrading Treatment or
Punishment (1975).

3.1.1 No discrimination

Core Your company does not discriminate, support or tolerate discrimination on the basis of race,
colour, gender, sexual orientation, disability, marital status, pregnancy, childbirth, disease,
Year 0 age, religion, political opinion, membership in trade union or workers’ representative bodies,
national extraction or social origin, or any other condition in recruitment, promotion, access to
training, remuneration, allocation of work, termination of employment, retirement, general
treatment in the workplace, or other activities.

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Guidance: This means for example, that testing for pregnancy, virginity, HIV/AIDS or genetic disorders is not allowed under any
circumstances. Women cannot be forced to use contraception or ingest it in any form against their will, and employees cannot be
prevented from marrying.
Where discrimination is endemic within a sector or region, the company is expected to take action towards removing it in policy
and practice.

3.1.2 No abuse of any kind

Core Your company does not directly or indirectly engage in, support or tolerate the use of corporal
punishment, mental or physical coercion, bullying, abuse, or other harassment of any kind.
Year 0

3.1.3 Policy and procedure on disciplinary measures

Core Your company establishes and implements a policy that clearly outlines fair and appropriate
disciplinary measures and ensures that workers are aware of this policy. The policy is in line
Year 0 with the principle of non-discrimination (3.1.1) and includes procedures to carry it out.

Guidance: A clear policy with procedures can prevent improper disciplinary practice.

3.1.4 No tolerance of sexual harassment

Core Your company does not directly or indirectly tolerate behaviour, including gestures, language,
and physical contact that is sexually intimidating, abusive or exploitative. This applies to
Year 0 management and workers alike.

3.1.5 Sexual harassment policy

Core Your company establishes and implements a policy that clearly prohibits sexual harassment.
Workers are aware of this policy and its contents.
Year 0

Guidance: See requirement 1.4.4 on procedure for grievances about sexual harassment.

3.1.6 Disciplinary measures motivated and recorded

Core All disciplinary measures are properly motivated and recorded so that the employee is
informed of the reasons for the decision and has the opportunity to file a grievance and seek
Year 1 representation (see requirement 1.4.4 on grievance procedures).

3.1.7 Record of terminated contracts

Core Your company keeps a record of all terminated contracts. These records include the
company's reason for termination.
Year 1

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3.2 Freedom from Forced and Compulsory Labour


Intent: This section intends to prevent forced or bonded labour, including trafficking and sexual
exploitation based on ILO Conventions C29 (Forced Labour Convention) and C105 (Abolition of Forced
Labour Convention) and Protocol 029 (Trafficking in persons).

3.2.1 No forced labour

Core Your company does not directly or indirectly engage in, support or tolerate forced labour,
including bonded or involuntary prison labour. You must explain this to all workers.
Year 0

Guidance: “Forced or compulsory labour shall mean all work or service which is exacted from any person under the menace of any
penalty and for which the said person has not offered himself voluntarily” (C29 Article 2).
Slavery, misuse of prison labour, forced recruitment, debt bondage, human trafficking for labour and/or sexual exploitation are some
examples of forced labour. It is considered forced labour if the company retains any part of the workers’ salary, benefits, property
or documents in order to force them to remain in your employment. If your company requires or forces workers to remain in
employment against their will using any physical or psychological measure this is considered forced labour. If you demand
unreasonable notice period for the termination of the contract of employment or retain workers’ documents so they cannot leave it
is also considered forced labour. If workers are not free to leave premises after their shift this is considered forced labour. The term
‘bonded labour’ or “debt bondage” includes all loans from a company to a worker of excessive amounts and/or with unreasonable
and/ or unjust terms and conditions for repayment, where the worker and/or their families are held to pay off the loan through their
labour against their will.

3.2.2 No retention of workers’ salary or property

Core Your company does not retain any part of the workers’ salary, benefits, property or
documents (e.g., passports) nor require a financial deposit in order to force them to remain in
Year 0 your employment.

3.3 Child Labour and Child Protection


Intent and Scope: This section intends to prevent labour that is damaging to children based on ILO
Convention C182 (Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention) and on ILO Convention C138 (Minimum
Age Convention). R146 (Minimum Age Recommendation), R190 (Worst Forms Labour
Recommendation).

3.3.1 No children under 15 employed

Core Your company does not directly or indirectly (through sub-contracting) employ children under
the age of 15 or under the age defined by local law, whichever is higher.
Year 0

Guidance: If the age of a child is unknown, all efforts shall be made to identify the age following the UN Rights of the Child
guidelines.

3.3.2 No dangerous or exploitative work for children under 18

Core Your company does not submit workers directly or indirectly (though subcontracting) less than
18 years of age to any type of work which puts their health, safety or morals, or their school
Year 0 attendance at risk.

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Under no circumstances shall any young worker’s school, work and transportation time
exceed a combined total of 10 hours per day.

Guidance: Examples of work that is potentially damaging includes work that takes place in an unhealthy environment, involves
excessively long working hours, night work, the handling or any exposure to hazardous chemicals and operation of dangerous
equipment.

3.3.3 Youth employment and apprentice programmes

Dev Your company encourages decent youth employment and offers apprentice/trainee
programmes for young workers where possible.
Year 3
The length of the programme, wages and terms are in accordance with national legislation
where applicable, or otherwise agreed between management and youth worker
representatives.
The worker is free to leave the programmes at any time.

Guidance: The apprentice/trainee programme allows young workers to build skills related to the textile industry and allows
management to build a trained work force. National legislation determines the age for workers participating in apprentice
programmes. The employer can determine the age range for apprentice programme participants.

3.3.4 Monitoring apprentice programmes

Dev A mechanism for monitoring programme achievements and schemes for professional
development (req. 3.3.3) is established by your company and monitored by Compliance
Year 3 Committee members and management.

3.3.5 Apprentice program completion certificate

Core A certificate of completion is issued to participants in the youth apprentice programme upon
completion. The certificate includes details about the programme, skills learned, and length of
Year 3 participation and is signed by a senior manager. Certificate details follow applicable national
legislation where it exists.

3.3.6 Child labour policy

Core Your company establishes and implements a Child Labour Policy, which includes a clear
statement against child labour and a commitment to adopting a child rights approach to
Year 0 protecting impacted children and remediating their situation. The Child Labour Policy is visibly
posted for all workers and communicated to all suppliers and subcontractors as a mandatory
component of contract.
Your suppliers and subcontractors must comply with the policy.

3.3.7 Child Labour remediation policy

Core If the certification body detects that, in the past, your company or subcontracted operators
employed children under 15 years for any type of work, or children under 18 years were
Year 0 engaged in dangerous and exploitative work, your company must ensure that those children

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neither enter nor are at risk of entering into even worse forms of labour, including hazardous
work, slave-like practices, recruitment into armed conflict, sex work, trafficking for labour
purposes, and/or illicit activities.
Your company develops a rights-based remediation policy and programme within a UN
Convention on the Rights of the Child (UNCRC) protective framework that covers how to
withdraw the children and how to prevent that they enter into worse forms of labour. This
programme should include remediation projects to ensure the immediate and continued
protection of children. These projects can include expert partner organizations, preferably
locally based.

Guidance: A UNCRC protective framework means that the best interests of the child are always the top priority, that their rights to
survival and development are respected, that you apply these to all children without discrimination, that the views of the child are
heard and respected, and at all times children are protected from violence. The Fairtrade Officer or another representative from
senior management should be responsible for the development, ratification, implementation, and evaluation of this Child
Protection Policy and Programme and any related actions.

3.3.8 Procedures to prevent child labour

Core If there is a risk of child labour in any part of your production, you must implement relevant
procedures to prevent children below the age of 15 from being employed for any work and
Year 1 children below the age of 18 from being employed in dangerous and exploitative work.

Guidance: Relevant procedures can include keeping records of all workers, noting their age, gender, identification papers,
migratory status, and other relevant data.

3.4 Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining


Intent: This section intends to enable workers to exercise their human rights to organize and to bargain
their working conditions collectively, based on ILO Conventions C87 (Freedom of Association and
Protection of the Right to Organize Convention), C98 (Right to Organize and Collective Bargaining
Convention), C154 (Collective Bargaining Convention), C135 (Workers’ Representatives Convention),
C141 (Rural Workers’ Organisations Conventions) and ILO Recommendation R143 (Workers’
Representatives Recommendation).
Companies are expected to fulfil their responsibilities to respect these human rights even where the state
does not protect them.
Fairtrade International promotes the rights of freedom of association and collective bargaining and
considers independent and democratic trade unions that represent the interests of the workers and that
are affiliated with an international trade union federation the best means for achieving this.

3.4.1 Trade union or independent workers’ organization on site

Core There is some form of democratically elected and independent trade union or workers’
organization established to represent workers in the company and negotiate with
Year 0 management.
Your company respects the self-organization of workers by engaging with representatives of
these organizations through regular constructive and supportive dialogue recognizing the

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imbalance of power whilst workers are strengthening their union and building their capacity to
negotiate.

Guidance: 'Democratically elected' means that elections are free from management interference, anonymous and results are
documented. If workers wish to establish a trade union in the workplace, the company is expected to provide the necessary
support to help further the capacity of those workers wishing to do so. Those workers will be afforded, within reason, paid time off
to attend those capacity building activities. The local point of contact can support workers to organize and enter a process of
collective bargaining (see 3.4.5).

3.4.2 Guaranteeing workers’ labour rights

Core All workers have the right to join or form trade unions and to bargain collectively.
Your company
Year 0
• respects the right of all workers to form or join trade unions;
• respects the right of workers to bargain collectively in practice;
• accepts that it has a duty to bargain in good faith with unions
Workers take the initiative to organize themselves and are allowed to do so independently of
management.
Management does not interfere in the process, nor directly or indirectly conduct elections
related to the formation, recognition or governance of this organization. Your company must
not have opposed any of these rights in the last 2 years prior to application for certification.

Guidance: If there has been any opposition to these rights within two years prior to application for certification, your company will
not qualify for certification unless you can demonstrate that the circumstances have changed substantially; for example, a change
of management responsible for prior violations and a full remediation of violations committed.

3.4.3 No interference in workers’ self-organization

Core Your company does not punish, threaten, intimidate, harass or bribe union members or
representatives, nor discriminate against workers for their past or present union membership
Year 0 or activities, and does not base their hiring on not joining or giving up their union membership.
Your company does not make any statements or take any actions which interfere with (or
seek to influence) any worker's choice to form or join a trade union.

Guidance: Examples of punishment include terminating, transferring, relocating, downgrading or demoting workers, denying them
the opportunity to work overtime, reducing their wages, benefits, or opportunities for vocational training, or changing their
conditions of work. Further, employers shall not offer workers incentives to refrain from joining a union or engaging in union
activities.

3.4.4 Freedom of Association protocol

Core Your company actively accepts and promotes the conditions in requirement 3.4.3 and 3.4.4
by signing the Freedom of Association protocol provided by Fairtrade International in Annex 3
Year 1 to this standard.
In case the ownership or senior management of a company changes, the FoA protocol is
signed by the new owners/management within 3 months of de facto change.

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Guidance: The protocol is signed and sent to the certification body prior to certification.

3.4.5 Communicating Freedom of Association rights to workers

Core The workers’ right to unionise guarantee, which is included in the Freedom of Association
protocol, is communicated to workers clearly and effectively by at least:
Year 1
• translating it into all relevant languages of the workers;
• displaying it publically in the workplaces in a way that all workers have access to it;
• ensuring that illiterate workers understand their rights.

Guidance: This requirement enables your company to ensure workers’ Freedom of Association rights are clearly communicated
and understood by all employees. This demonstrates your company’s commitment to adopting an open and positive attitude to
workers organizing themselves.

3.4.6 Local point of contact

Core If no union is present in the workplace, your company displays information and contact details
for the local point of contact in the workplace in a way that all workers have access to it and in
Year 1 the languages and pictograms understandable to workers.

Guidance: The local point of contact is intended to support workers in knowing and understanding their rights, and can support
workers to establish and operate their trade unions. This contact point is established in textile producing regions as part of the
textile support programme and communicated to operators and workers by Fairtrade International.

3.4.7 Allowing trade union representatives to meet with workers

Core In situations where workers are not represented by a trade union recognized for collective
bargaining with the company, management allows representatives of trade union
Year 0 organizations that represent workers in the textile sector or region to meet with workers on
company premises at agreed times. Trade union representatives must be able to inform the
workers about trade unions and carry out their duties. Such meetings must take place without
management interference or surveillance.
Workers may choose to meet with trade union representatives at any location. Times and
locations of these agreed meetings are reasonable and management does not interfere in any
way with, nor conduct any surveillance of these meetings.

Guidance: Where workers are not included in a collective agreement or collective bargaining relationship, the certification body
will determine whether there was any intimidation or coercion involved in this decision.

3.4.8 Trade union access to workers

Core Your company allows access to trade union representatives representing workers in your
workplace in order to communicate about unionisation and/or to carry out their representative
Year 0 functions at an agreed time and place. These meetings take place without management
interference or surveillance.

Guidance: Time and place for these meetings have to be agreed upon in advance. Workers should always be allowed to attend
union meetings during scheduled breaks and outside of working time.

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3.4.9 Worker representatives’ duties

Core Your company ensures that trade union/elected worker representatives:


• are able to carry out their functions in the workplace;
Year 0
• have access to all workers in the workplace during working time without interference
or the presence of management representatives and at agreed times, on average
every three months;
• can meet among themselves during regular working hours, at least once a month for
one hour;
• meet representatives of senior management during working hours at least once every
3 months.
Meetings schedules are agreed on between union representatives and management on a
regular basis and must be signed and documented.
Workers that engage in such meetings are not dismissed for reasons connected to this
engagement.

Guidance: While regular meetings can be held during work time, this should be within reasonable limits and not be abused. Time
constraints should not jeopardise exercising the right to organize. Time and place for these meetings have to be agreed in
advance. Workers should always be allowed to attend union meetings during scheduled breaks and outside of working time.

3.4.10 Sectoral collective bargaining agreement (CBA)

Core In countries where a collective bargaining agreement (CBA) is agreed for the textile sector,
your company signs and adheres to this agreement. Collective bargaining at the company
Year 1 level may take place even if a sector-wide collective agreement exists, however company
level agreements does not provide lesser terms and conditions than the sector-wide
agreement.

3.4.11 Negotiations in the absence of a Collective Bargaining Agreement

Core If there is no sectoral or company CBA in place, your company proactively engages in a
process to enter into a collective agreement with elected worker representatives. Your
Year 0 company must not refuse any genuine opportunity to bargain collectively with workers.
Negotiations must take place with a recognized trade union, or with elected worker
representatives in the absence of a trade union, but only where such elected worker
representatives are provided for by law and are legally authorized to bargain (see 3.4.1).
In cases where workers have freely and specifically decided to not form or join a trade union
and are not otherwise legally authorized to collectively bargain, then the collective bargaining
requirement is waived. In these situations, the certification body will determine whether there
was any intimidation or coercion involved in this decision. The decision cannot be the result of
any vote in which management was in any way involved.

Guidance: Trade unions have the right, through collective bargaining or other lawful means, to seek to improve the living and
working conditions of those members the trade unions represent. Employers shall respect this right by accepting that there is a
'duty to bargain'* in good faith where workers want to exercise this right.

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A negotiated agreement between a recognized trade union or elected worker representatives and management should cover the
topics normally covered by a CBA.
If no union is present representing the majority of workers in the workplace, management and the elected workers’
representatives can begin a dialogue with the national union federation(s) for the respective sector and the International Trade
Union Global Union Federation (ITUC) or Global Union Federation (GUF) about improvement of the workers’ representation and
implementing a CBA.

3.5 Conditions of Employment: wages, benefits and working hours


Intent: This section intends to ensure good practices regarding the payment of workers and their
conditions of employment based on ILO Conventions C95 (Protection of Wages Convention), C100
(Equal Remuneration Convention), and C110 (Conditions of Employment of Plantation Workers
Convention).
This section also intends to ensure good practices regarding sick leave, social security, maternity
protection and workers’ housing based on ILO Conventions C102 (Social Security (Minimum Standards)
Convention), Part III, C121 (Employment Injury Benefits Convention), C130 (Medical Care and Sickness
Benefits Convention), C183 (Maternity Protection Convention) and ILO Recommendation R115
(Workers’ Housing Recommendation).

3.5.1 Wages and conditions of employment

Core Your company must set wages for workers and other conditions of employment according to
legal or sectoral CBA regulations where they apply, or at regional average wages or at official
Year 0 minimum wages for similar occupations; whichever is the highest, with the intention of
continually increasing salaries (see 3.5.2).
Your company must specify wages for all employee functions and employment terms, such as
piece-work.

Guidance: National laws and applicable CBA terms need to be complied with especially if they exceed this Standard. However,
this Standard applies if it goes beyond those laws and terms.

3.5.2 Wage increases to reach living wages

Core If remuneration (wages and benefits) is below living wage benchmarks approved by Fairtrade
International, your company must agree with trade union/workers’ representatives to a time-
Year 0 bound plan of maximum six years from certification to increase real wages to close the gap to
living wages.
Once a living wage is reached, wage increases are expected to continue to keep up with
inflation. Negotiations on annual wage increases do not have to take place every year, as
long as real wages increase every year.

Guidance: Real wages refers to wages that have been adjusted for inflation. The real wage increase is intended to raise wage
levels to an eventual living wage. The Fairtrade approved living wage benchmarks provide guidelines for negotiations between
trade unions/workers’ representatives and management. The methodology used to calculate living wage benchmarks can be
found on the Fairtrade website.
Negotiations can take place according to industry practice; for instance, every year, every two, or even every three years,
depending on the term of the wage agreement. If wages are set at a regional or sector level in such a way that the gap with living

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wage is not closed by regular increments, the employer can satisfy this requirement by increasing other forms of remuneration as
long as this is agreed by elected worker representatives.

3.5.3 Living wages paid

Core Your company pays at least a living wage to all workers.

Year 6

Guidance: See 3.5.2 on how to reach a living wage and the link to the Fairtrade approved living wage benchmark methodology.

3.5.4 Participation in sector-wide wage initiatives

Dev Your company supports sector-wide initiatives on wages, such as industry bargaining and
minimum wage processes, to raise wages across the industry, and advocating for wage
Year 3 increases up to a living wage.

3.5.5 Equal pay for equal work

Core Your company offers equal pay for equal work to all workers – permanent, temporary and
migrant, without discrimination based on gender or otherwise. This includes equivalent
Year 0 benefits and employment conditions for equal work.

3.5.6 Social security

Core Your company provides legal social security, including contributions to a provident fund or
pension scheme for all workers, whether permanent, migrant, temporary or seasonal.
Year 0

Guidance: In cases where equivalent benefits, such as social security, cannot be made available to a set of workers, e.g.,
migrant or temporary workers, these workers shall receive the equivalent or an alternative through other means.

3.5.7 Wages specified for all functions

Core In order to ensure transparency and fairness in wage rates, your company must specify
wages for all employee functions.
Year 0

Guidance: Job descriptions and function relating to the wage rate is included in employee contracts (req. 3.5.30).

3.5.8 No deductions from salaries

Core Your company does not make deductions from salaries unless they are permitted by national
laws, fixed by a collective bargaining agreement, and the employee has given written
Year 0 consent. If deductions are made from salaries for services provided by the company, the
amounts must be in line with the actual costs incurred. Salary deductions must not be used
for disciplinary purposes.

Guidance: Housing is an example of deductions for services provided.

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3.5.9 Wages paid regularly

Core Your company makes payments to workers at regularly scheduled intervals in a convenient
way for workers, and must document the payments with a clear and understandable payslip
Year 0 containing all necessary information. Workers must sign for payments received in cash.
Payments are made in national currency.

Guidance: Frequency of regular payments can be daily, weekly or monthly.

3.5.10 Quota and piece-work pay equivalent to hourly pay

Core For work based on production, quotas and piecework, during normal working hours, your
company must pay the equivalent to an average hourly waged work based on a manageable
Year 0 work load. This must not be below the relevant industry average or a proportionate wage
based on the living wage benchmark provided for in requirement 3.5.2, whichever is higher.
Piece rates must be agreed upon by trade union/worker representatives and calculation
documented by technical documentation of the company.
Information about this pay rate must be transparent and available for all workers and worker
organizations.

Guidance: As part of the overall Fairtrade Textile Program, and supported by industry experts, Fairtrade International will provide
guidance for adopting best practice examples for SAM (standard allowed minutes) and labour minutes calculation, and work
together with companies to implement it in their productions. This can be used to discover efficiency potentials and productivity
gains.

3.5.11 Working hours

Core Your company must comply with applicable national and local legislation and industry
standards, and follow CBA agreements regarding working hours and overtime regulations.
Year 0 Your company must not require workers to work in excess of 8 hours per day and 48 hours
per week on a regular basis.

3.5.12 Overtime not required

Core Your company does not require its workers to work overtime. Overtime is allowable in
exceptional circumstances if it is voluntary and not used on a regular basis and does not
Year 0 extend over a period of more than 3 consecutive months. It does not exceed 12 hours per
week, or 3 months per year.

Guidance: Exceptional circumstances are for example peak production periods and must be agreed by trade unions/worker
representatives. If national legislation exceeds any part of requirements 3.5.10 and 3.5.11 (i.e. less than 48 hours per week), the
12 hours are added to the national legal working hours.

3.5.13 Measures to avoid overtime

Core Overtime for regular production periods must be avoided by putting in place adequate
measures to anticipate production peaks and other extraordinary situations.
Year 3

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Guidance: Other possible appropriate measures are an efficient management system to predict extraordinary situations,
efficiency of production processes, the extension of time frame for ‘seasonal production’, stocks holding, the increase of
production capacity and employment, etc.

3.5.14 Day of rest

Core Your company must allow workers at least one day of rest for every 6 consecutive days
worked. For shift work common industry practices apply.
Year 0

3.5.15 Overtime compensation

Core Your company must compensate overtime in all cases at a premium rate and inform workers
of these rates. The premium rate must be paid at a factor (ratio) of 1.5 for work performed on
Year 0 regular workdays, and for work performed on the day of rest, public holidays and night work a
premium at a factor of 2 must be paid unless otherwise defined by national legislation, by
CBA or by agreements with unions.
If overtime is compensated by the allocation of time off work, your company must apply the
premium factor.

Guidance: Night work is defined as work between 8 pm and 8 am.

3.5.16 Work breaks

Core Your company must grant and respect meal and work breaks according to national legislation.

Year 0

3.5.17 Paid leave

Core Your company must follow national legislation regarding regular paid leave.

Year 0

3.5.18 Increased paid leave

Dev Your company must grant all workers at least 2 weeks of paid leave per year at minimum, not
including sick and casual leave. Periods of annual leave must be in line with national
Year 3 legislation and/or with agreements detailed in a specific or industry sector CBA, if either of
these exceeds 2 weeks.

Guidance: ‘Week’ means a calendar week.

3.5.19 Sick leave

Core Your company must follow national legislation regarding regular temporary (paid) sick leave.

Year 0

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3.5.20 Increased sick leave

Dev Your company has a regulation granting at least 5 days regular (paid) sick leave. The
regulation must ensure that workers are protected from being dismissed during temporary
Year 3 sick leave. It must guarantee worker income during sick leave and it must not deduct this
leave from annual leave.

3.5.21 Leave for injury

Core Your company has a regulation granting at least 5 days paid leave caused by employment
injury. The regulation must ensure that workers are protected from being dismissed during
Year 0 temporary leave. It must not deduct this leave from annual leave.

Guidance: Leave for injury is different from sick leave (3.5.18).

3.5.22 Disability compensation

Core Your company has a regulation on disability compensation that ensures that workers
sustaining long-term disabilities caused by employment injury are fairly compensated.
Year 1

3.5.23 Survivor benefits

Core Your company has a regulation on survivor benefits which ensures that the dependent family
members of workers who are killed in an employment-related accident are fairly
Year 1 compensated.

3.5.24 Maternity leave

Core Your company must grant its female workers at least eight weeks of maternity leave with
compensation consistent with national laws or not less than 2/3 regular pay, whichever is
Year 0 higher, not including annual leave and not incurring any loss or privilege on account of such
leave.

Guidance: ‘Week’ means a calendar week. Not incurring any loss or privilege on account of such leave means that workers may
return to their same or equivalent position with at least the same remuneration.

3.5.25 Increased maternity leave

Dev If maternity leave is less than 12 weeks, your company must increase it by one week each
year until 12 weeks is reached, with compensation consistent with requirement 3.5.20.
Year 3
National legislation must be complied with if it exceeds this requirement.

3.5.26 No termination for pregnancy

Core Your company must not terminate the employment of a woman during her pregnancy or
maternity leave, except on grounds unrelated to the pregnancy or birth of the child.
Year 0

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3.5.27 Safe work for pregnant and nursing women

Core Your company must ensure that pregnant and nursing women do not perform work that may
compromise the health of the mother or the child. This includes working during night hours.
Year 0

Guidance: Night is defined as a period of at least 12 consecutive hours comprising the interval between 8 pm and 8 am.

3.5.28 Nursing breaks

Core Your company must grant nursing mothers two or more daily breaks during paid working time,
or a daily reduction of hours of work, to breastfeed her child for at least 6 months after the
Year 0 birth.

3.5.29 Increased nursing breaks

Dev If the period granted for the nursing breaks is less than 12 months, your company must
increase the duration of the period for nursing breaks during working time to at least 12
Year 3 months after the birth.

3.5.30 Regular work done by permanent workers

Core All regular work must be undertaken by permanent workers. Time-limited contracts and
contract labour are permitted during peak periods and under special circumstances.
Year 0

Guidance: Only temporary work that is added to usual work levels during textile production peaks or high demand situations may
be undertaken by temporary workers. ‘Regular work’ refers to tasks that are steady and predictable. ‘Temporary work’ refers to
special tasks and orders that occur occasionally or seasonally.

3.5.31 Employment contracts

Core Your company has a legally binding written contract of employment for all workers, including
permanent, temporary, seasonal and migrant, signed by worker and employer that includes
Year 0 at least the following:
• job description;
• working hours;
• pay rate;
• overtime regulation;
• social benefits;
• entitlements and deductions;
• annual paid leave, sick leave, protection of the worker from loss of pay in the case of
illness, disability, accident, or loss of life;
• and a notice period for termination that is the same as the notice period for the
employer.

Guidance: As guidance to draft the contracts, your company can use textile sector specific contracts and details from collective
bargaining agreements.

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3.5.32 Workers have a copy of employment contract and understand content

Core Your company must ensure that workers have a signed copy of their employment contract
and that they understand the content by providing it in a format and language they
Year 0 understand. Your company must ensure that all workers are aware of their rights and duties,
responsibilities, salaries, and work schedules as part of the legal labour contract.

3.5.33 Records of all workers

Core Your company has records of all workers, including contracted workers, that indicate the
names of workers, their payment and their working hours.
Year 0

3.5.34 Recruitment practices

Core If your company actively recruits workers from other regions within your country or from other
countries, your company must pay any recruitment or agency and visa fees incurred. Your
Year 0 company must also pay travel costs for these workers to and from their home country or
region at the onset and end of their work period, if the work period is less than one year.

3.5.35 Worker housing

Core If your company provides accommodation (dormitories, housing) for workers, it must be such
as to ensure structural safety and reasonable levels of decency, privacy, security and
Year 0 hygiene, and include regular upkeep and improvement to respond to the workers’ and their
families’ basic needs. If sanitary facilities are shared, a reasonable number of toilets and
bathing facilities with clean water, per number of users, and according to regional practice,
must be available. Accommodation must be located in separate buildings from production
areas, storages and warehouses.
Accommodation must be optional for workers and if rent is charged it must not exceed local
average, or exceed any benchmark set by local government, if available.
National or state regulation must be complied with in all cases and regional norms should be
considered.

Guidance: For family housing and dormitories


• Enough natural light during the daytime and access to sufficient artificial light, to be able to read by;
• Ventilation that ensures sufficient movement of air in all conditions of weather and climate, and in the case where there is an
interior fire for heating or cooking;
• A supply of safe potable water that is enough for drinking and eating requirements;
• Sanitary facilities that provide privacy, hygiene, and that are sufficient in number;
• Drainage that ensures hygiene and avoids environmental pollution;
• Fire safety measures in place, maintained and operational at all times;
• Safe electrical installations where they exist.
For dormitories
• Separate accommodation of the sexes, including transgender people;
• A separate bed and bed sheets for each worker;
• Adequate headroom, providing full and free movement;
• The minimum inside dimensions of a sleeping space should be at least 198 centimetres by 80 centimetres;
• Beds should not be arranged in tiers of more than two;
• Bedding and bedframe materials should be designed to deter vermin;

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• Heating where appropriate;


• Adequate furniture for each worker to secure his or her belongings.
In order to meet workers’ privacy needs, it is recommended management agrees with the workers on how their privacy
requirements can be realised.
For further details on housing conditions, please see the ILO Helpdesk Factsheet No. 6, 2009 on workers housing.

3.6 Occupational Health and Safety


Intent: This section intends to promote a safe working environment and to prevent work-related accidents
by minimizing hazards in the work place. It is based on ILO Conventions C155 (Occupational Safety and
Health Convention) and ILO Recommendation R164 (Occupational Safety and Health Recommendation).
This section also intends that the health and welfare of workers is ensured based on ILO C077 and C078
(Medical Examination of Young Persons (Industry and Non-Industrial Occupations) Conventions), C183
(Maternity Protection Convention) and R102 (Welfare Facilities Recommendation).

3.6.1 Occupational Health & Safety

Core Your company makes work processes, workplaces, buildings, machinery and equipment on
the production site as safe as possible, minimizing any inherent risks by appropriate
Year 0 measures and adequate control.
To ensure safety:
• Systems to detect, avoid, or respond to potential threats to the health and safety of
workers are established;
• Risk areas and potential hazards are clearly identified by warning signs in appropriate
languages and include pictograms if possible;
• Safety instructions and procedures including accident prevention and response are in
place and communicated to staff;
• All hazardous machinery and equipment is equipped with adequate safety devices;
• Protective guards are placed over moving parts;
• Safety equipment is provided to all workers who must be instructed and monitored in
its proper use;
• Equipment for chemical use is stored properly.

3.6.2 Health and Safety Officer

Core Your company appoints a Health and Safety Officer (H&S Officer) to be in charge of
occupational health and safety matters and who reports to senior management.
Year 0
The H&S Officer must be qualified and adequately trained for the job and equipped with
adequate time and resources to carry out duties which include: implementing, suggesting,
planning and monitoring measures to improve health and safety on the site and informing and
training workers on H&S.
The H&S Officers’ duties must be included in their employment contract.

Guidance: The H&S Officer is not necessarily hired exclusively for this task and may have other duties and responsibilities within
the company.

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3.6.3 Meetings between Health &Safety Officer & worker representatives

Core The H&S Officer in your company must meet regularly with the trade union/worker
representative(s) of the Compliance Committee to discuss health and safety in the workplace.
Year 1
The CC H&S representative actively communicates with all workers on issues of health and
safety and makes suggestions for improvements to the H&S Officer.

Guidance: The H&S Officer performs duties in close co-operation with the CC committee and evaluates complaints and
suggestions for improvements.

3.6.4 Health and Safety risk assessments

Dev Your company ensures that regular H&S risk assessments are carried out, and safety
measures adapted accordingly.
Year 3
The appointed H&S member of the CC is provided with findings of the risk assessment and
suggested measures in order to report back to the CC (see 1.2.1).

Guidance: Risk assessments are undertaken by relevant technical experts such as fire- fighting brigades, engineers, technical
representatives of machinery suppliers, internal teams (after training and if the company has the capacity), local labour inspectors
and in some cases a medical expert.

3.6.5 Fire safety

Core Properly marked fire exits, escape routes, firefighting equipment and appropriate fire alarms
for each working area are required.
Year 0
Fire exits and escape routes are kept clear of obstacles, unlocked, and easily openable at all
times when workers are present, allowing for swift and safe exit in case of an emergency.

3.6.6 Training on evacuation procedures

Core All staff is trained on evacuation procedures, and regular fire safety drills are conducted at
least every 6 months and are documented.
Year 0 Evacuation procedures and fire safety drills are conducted according to national legislation
where it exists.

3.6.7 Health & Safety instructions in factory

Core All information, safety instructions, re-entry intervals and hygiene recommendations regarding
hazardous work must be displayed clearly in a visible place in the workplace in the
Year 0 language(s) understood by workers and with pictograms.
Instructions must be in line with technical guidelines provided by machinery and production
suppliers, MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), and local authorities inspections, (e.g.,
firefighting brigade, labour inspector). MSDS must fulfil internationally recognised standards –
REACH Regulation (Annex I Requirements for the compilation of safety data sheets Directive
EU 453/2010).

3.6.8 Training on occupational health and safety

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Core Your company ensures that all workers and their representatives are trained in the basic
requirements of occupational health and safety, relevant health protection and first aid
Year 0 immediately before starting any new job.
Regular refresher trainings take place at least once a year. The training includes making
workers aware of their right to remove themselves from unsafe situations without being
penalized for doing so.
Records are kept of these training activities indicating information on topics, time, duration,
names of attendees and trainers.

Guidance: The H&S officer is responsible that these trainings take place (see requirement 3.6.2).

3.6.9 Trainings on Health & Safety for specific tasks

Core Your company ensures that all workers and their representatives are trained in health and
safety matters appropriately for their specific job and task.
Year 0
All chemical handlers are thoroughly instructed and trained at regular intervals by a
recognised institution or by specialists in the safe application and the risks of chemicals.
Safety instructions on the label of chemical products are followed. Workers that are engaged
in any potentially hazardous work are trained according to the tasks they carry out at least
once every year. Records of these training activities are kept indicating information on topics,
time, duration, names of attendees and trainers. Training includes proper handling and storing
of hazardous waste.

Guidance: Hazardous work includes, but is not limited to working with hazardous chemicals, blasting, and cutting, as well as
operating machinery. The training covers health and environmental risks of the products workers handle, if applicable, and
enables them to take correct emergency actions in case of accident.

3.6.10 Health & Safety policy

Core Your company implements an appropriate health and safety policy outlining measures for
handling and storing hazardous chemicals.
Year 0
MSDS are maintained for all chemical substances and preparations used.

3.6.11 Health & Safety procedures

Dev Your company has procedures in place to comply with the Registration, Evaluation,
Authorisation and Restriction of chemical (REACH) regulation on the use of chemicals (see
Year 3 requirement 4.1.1).

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3.6.12 Hazardous work

Core The following persons must not be engaged in any potentially hazardous work:
• People younger than 18 years
Year 0
• Pregnant or nursing women
• People with incapacitated mental conditions;
• People with chronic, hepatic or renal diseases, and
• People with respiratory diseases are not allowed to handle or work with hazardous
chemicals.

3.6.13 Safe, clean and hygienic working areas

Core All working areas must be free of obvious defects and maintained in a safe, clean and, where
necessary, hygienic condition at all times.
Year 0

3.6.14 Electrical equipment

Core All electrical equipment, wiring and outlets must be properly placed, grounded and inspected
for overloading and leakage by a professional on a regular basis. Inspection protocols must
Year 0 be available on site and renewed annually.

3.6.15 Adequate lighting, heating, ventilation

Core All workplaces must have adequate lighting, heating, and ventilation and control systems in
place for noise, dust and vibration according to legal requirements.
Year 0

Guidance: Different activities require different levels of light. In general, the more detailed the task, the greater the light
requirement. For example, a production room should be lit at an illuminance of 300 lux.

3.6.16 Personal protective equipment (PPE)

Core Your company provides adequate quality personal protective equipment (PPE) to all workers
free of charge and ensures that workers are trained and use the equipment properly.
Year 0 Replacement stock of proper PPE is always available.
Visible signs are posted in the work place displaying appropriate PPE required for each work
place or working area.
Workers always use such equipment and are monitored accordingly.

Guidance: This applies to all workers, including temporary workers. Adequate quality protective equipment means items such as
gloves, safety glasses and shoes, earplugs or muffs, hard hats, respiratory protection, etc. Equipment that is worn out or
damaged must be replaced free of charge.

3.6.17 First aid facilities, equipment, staff, boxes and training

Core Your company provides adequate emergency first aid facilities, equipment and appropriately
trained first aid staff to meet all reasonably foreseeable emergency first aid situations.
Year 0

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The H&S Officer must check and restock the first aid boxes at least every two months to
ensure that all boxes are complete.
A reasonable number of workers (in relation to the total number of employees and the nature
of their work), must receive regular training in first aid.

Guidance: Adequate emergency first aid equipment includes suitably stocked first aid boxes which are quickly accessible at all
times.

3.6.18 Reporting accidents and first aid measures

Core The H&S Officer must compile reports on all accidents and subsequent first aid measures that
occur in the workplace and in company-controlled residences and property. Reports are
Year 1 provided for risk assessments (1.2.1).

3.6.19 Medical Officer

Core Your company appoints and identifies to the workforce a Medical Officer responsible for
healthcare and protection.
Year 0
The Medical Officer is qualified for the job or trained by local medical authorities, such as a
trained nurse or health worker. They are responsible for suggesting, planning and monitoring
measures to improve medical care and protection of health within the company.
The Medical Officer’s duties are included in their employment contract.

Guidance: The Medical Officer is not necessarily hired exclusively for this task but may have other duties and responsibilities
within the company.

3.6.20 Medical Officer: documentation

Core The Medical Officer must maintain complete continuously-updated documentation on work-
related illness and accidents, and propose actions to reduce these where possible.
Year 0

3.6.21 Free and regular occupational medical care

Dev Your company provides or enables access to free and regular occupational medical care and
advice, offered at the workplace at fixed times during working hours, or at the local health
Year 3 centres/hospital.

Guidance: Fixed times must be appropriate for allowing all workers consult the Medical Officer. The frequency of the provision is
to be agreed upon with workers’ representatives.

3.6.22 Work-related illness or injury care

Core Your company provides appropriate care in case of work-related illness or injury by providing
free onsite permanent medical support adequately equipped to deal with accidents or
Year 0 guaranteeing free transportation to the nearest hospital, and follow-up medical treatment.

Guidance: Proposed actions should be based on H&S risk assessments and coordinated with the H&S officer.

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3.6.23 Examinations by medical doctor

Core Your company must offer regular examinations and check-ups by a medical doctor to all
workers on a voluntary basis at least every three years.
Year 0
Any findings must be communicated to the worker confidentially and in a readily
understandable form.

Guidance: Medical records should be held confidential by the medical practitioner. Anonymised medical data are to be reported
to the employer to be used in managing health and safety. Personal medical information is not to be disclosed to the employer
without consent from the employee. Records will be released to the worker or destroyed when the worker leaves employment.

3.6.24 Handling of hazardous chemicals and other hazardous work

Core Workers engaged in handling any potentially hazardous chemicals or other hazardous work
must be examined regularly, at least once a year, by a medical doctor.
Year 0
These examinations must be free and confidential to the respective worker. The frequency of
examinations depends on the level of exposure to chemicals.
Individual health records must be established for workers at risk due the nature of their job.
These records must be kept confidential and management must not have access to them.

3.6.25 Rest areas and canteens

Dev Your company provides suitable rest areas and canteens, with clean and maintained cooking
and food storage facilities where necessary and if requested by workers.
Year 3

Guidance: Rest areas that are separate for men and women should be provided where requested by workers.

3.6.26 Meals provided

Core If meals are provided by the company, it is optional for workers and must be comparable in
quality and cost to local conditions.
Year 0

3.6.27 Clean drinking water

Core If clean toilets with hand t ensured by local authorities, your company provides clean drinking
water close to the working area of all workers and clearly labelled drinking water facilities as
Year 0 such in the rest or canteen area.
The water quality is monitored by the company and H&S Compliance Committee
representative.

3.6.28 Toilets, washing facilities & changing rooms

Core Your company provides clean toilets with hand washing facilities close by, changing rooms for
all workers, and clean showers for workers who handle hazardous chemicals. Lockable
Year 0 storage facilities are provided where requested.

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Toilets, changing rooms and showers are separate for women and men, and the number of
toilets and hand washing facilities are in proportion to the number of workers (minimum
proportion is 1:25). Your company also provides clean hand washing facilities close to the
canteen. All facilities are cleaned regularly and equipped with covered drains and pipes.

Guidance: You ensure that workers can freely access these facilities at any time.

4. Environmental Responsibility
Intent: The intent of this chapter is to control chemicals and practices in textile manufacturing in order to
reduce the negative impacts on workers and the environment.

4.1 Management of hazardous substances


4.1.1 No hazardous substances

Core Your company does not use substances and preparations for application in its processes as
per the Prohibited Materials List for Textiles (see annex 1).
Year 0

Guidance: The PMLT replaces the Prohibited Materials List in the Fairtrade Trader standard for operators certified under the
Fairtrade Textile Standard.
The PMLT includes substances classified by the EU as endocrine disruptors, chemicals with specific hazard statements (risk
phrases) related to health and environmental hazards, and disperse dyestuffs classified as allergenic.

4.1.2 No highly hazardous processes

Core Your company does not apply processes that are highly hazardous for the environment or
human health such as:
Year 1
• chlorine bleaching;
• cross-linking agents with high formaldehyde levels (see Oeko Tex 100 limits for free
formaldehyde);
• Toxic and persistent organic and inorganic textile preservation chemicals (e.g.,
organic tin compounds, brominated compounds, chlorinated benzenes and toluenes,
dieldrin, arsenic, and mercury);
• use of chrom-salts for colour fastness;
• sandblasting and Potassium Permanganate spray for finishing;
• nano-materials (as per GOTS V.4 definition of nano-particles: particles with a size <
100 nm).

Guidance: This is an opportunity to discuss requirements and audit results with workers as they are directly involved in handling
chemicals and in processes.

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4.1.3 Chemical residues testing

Core Your company tests the limit values of the following substances groups:

Year 0 alkylphenols, alkylphenol ethoxylates, heavy metals, tinorganic compounds, azo-dyes/aryl


amines, chlorophenols, perfluorinated chemicals, phthalates, polycyclic aromatic
hydrocarbons and formaldehyde.

Your company uses test methods and methodology defined by Oeko-TEX® Standard 100 or
equivalent.

Guidance: This requirement is only applicable for ready-made/finished products to be labelled under the German Gruener Knopf
initiative (www.gruener-knopf.de).

4.1.4 Plan to replace hazardous substances

Dev Your company develops and follows a plan, with timelines, to replace the following
substances with ecological alternatives:
Year 3
• biological active products;
• PFOS, PFOA;
• non-biodegradable and non-bio eliminable complexing agents, tensides and
surfactants;
• PVC in prints and accessories.
You must measure and document the reduction of these substances.

4.2 Wastewater
4.2.1 Waste water treatment

Core If your company uses wet processing (e. g., desizing, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing,
and other specific treatments where waste water occurs) you treat the waste water to prevent
Year 0 ground water pollution and for pollution control according to national legislation.
Wastewater analyses are performed and documented periodically at normal operating
capacity.

4.2.2 Measures to reduce water consumption

Dev If your company uses wet processing, you develop measures for reduction of water
consumption and/or water reuse and document achieved impact.
Year 6

4.2.3 NEW JULY 2024 Certification accepted by Green Button for wet processing

Core

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Year 0 Your company as factory carrying out wet processing that produces products to be
labelled under the Gruener Knopf/ Green Button has a relevant valid certification
proving that Green Button 2.0 criteria are complied with during the production process.
Guidance: This requirement applies to: factories carrying out wet processing that produce products
to be labelled under the German Gruener Knopf/ Green Button.

A valid certification is OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN.

4.2.4 NEW JULY 2024 Informing wet processing supplier

Core If you produce ready-made/finished products to be labelled under the German Green
Button 2.0 and do not carry out the wet processing yourself, you inform your wet
Year 0 processing supplier that the final product is to be labelled under Green Button in a
written form and thereby the above requirement becomes relevant for them.

Guidance: This requirement applies to CMT factories who produce ready-made/finished products to
be labelled under the German Gruener Knopf/ Green Button.

4.3 Emissions to air


4.3.1 Emission control techniques

Core Your company applies appropriate emissions control techniques for any of your company’s
manufacturing operations that generate air pollutants. Control techniques include: ventilation,
Year 1 absorption, physical and chemical scrubbing, closed-loop-systems for recovery of solvents,
noise/odour and vibration reduction equipment. Significant sources of air pollutants are:
• coating and dyeing operations;
• printing;
• drying (fabrics, yarns and prints);
• fibre processing generating dust (bale breakers, automatic feeders, separators and
openers, mechanical conveyors, pickers, cards) and spinning;
• combustion sources for power generation and process heating;
• weaving.

4.3.2 Measuring reduction of emissions

Dev Your company measures the reduction of hazardous and non-hazardous emissions that have
been achieved through control techniques in requirement 4.3.1.
Year 3

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4.4 Energy Consumption


4.4.1 Energy consumption

Dev Your company measures energy consumption and develops a plan for reduction and
recovery. Progress should be documented on indicators set by cross unit teams in the factory.
Year 6
You have a system to measure achievements in place.

4.5 Waste
4.5.1 Waste collection and separation

Core Your company collects and separates waste according to local requirements. Waste must be
properly disposed in municipal garbage collection systems where available.
Year 0

4.5.2 Cleaning, storing and disposal of hazardous waste

Core Your company does not reuse empty hazardous chemical containers for water or food
storage. Empty containers are triple rinsed and the rinse water is used in the mix of
Year 0 pesticides to be applied. Once triple rinsed, empty containers are punctured and stored
while awaiting disposal. All waste equipment that has been in contact with pesticides or
hazardous chemicals is cleaned and stored in a proper way.

Guidance: Stored in a proper way means to reduce risk of hazards by keeping away from people, animals and water sources.
‘Waste equipment’ refers to other waste material that has been in contact with hazardous chemicals, such as personal protection
equipment (PPE), filters, measuring and application equipment. The company is encouraged to contact chemical suppliers and/or
local authorities for disposing of these materials.

4.5.3 Waste management plan

Core Your company has a waste management plan that includes strategies in waste reduction,
recycling, reuse and disposal alternatives.
Year 1
This plan establishes timelines by when the company will identify the main wastes, ways to
reduce and reuse them if applicable, and to dispose of them in the best available way.

Guidance: Your company is encouraged to participate in a regional program for waste management and to update its strategies
based on changes in regional alternatives. All potential sources of waste should be identified. Prioritization within the
management plan shall be based on toxicity of wastes and estimated volumes and other applicable criteria. The plan should
include collection and disposal alternatives for hazardous and non-hazardous waste and for any materials that can be effectively
recycled. Alternatives may depend on availability in the region.

4.5.4 Hazardous waste

Core If your company generates hazardous waste or waste classified as special waste, you follow
national and local legislation to avoid any pollution of ground water and air.
Year 0
Your company keeps the production site free of hazardous waste. Designated areas for the
storage and disposal of hazardous waste exist and are used regularly. Risk of pollution from
areas for storage and disposal of hazardous waste is minimized or eliminated.

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4.5.5 Waste reduction measures

Dev Your company develops measures for waste reduction and documents the reduction of the
waste.
Year 3

4.6 Environmental management system


4.6.1 Measurement and environmental control

Core Your company develops a system for measurement, control and evaluation of environmental
hazards and pollution load. Responsibilities and operating procedures must be defined and
Year 1 agreed to by top management.

4.6.2 Environmental officer

Core Your company appoints an Environmental Officer with relevant expertise to be responsible to
lead the operational steps required to comply with the requirements in chapter 4,
Year 1 Environmental Responsibility.
The Environmental Officer meets regularly with the CC to inform on findings and any risks of
an environmental nature in the work place.

Guidance: Relevant experience includes holding positions such as environmental engineer, production manager, dye house
master or similar.

4.6.3 Awareness raising on environmental responsibility

Dev The company defines and implements a procedure to raise awareness among workers in
relation to the requirements in chapter 4, Environmental Responsibility.
Year 3

5. Trade
Intent: This chapter outlines the rules you need to comply with when you buy and sell Fairtrade certified
textile products and Fairtrade cotton for use in a Fairtrade certified supply chain.

5.1 Traceability
Intent: To ensure that finished textile product carrying the Fairtrade Production mark has been produced
under Fairtrade terms at every stage in the supply chain.
For documentary traceability requirements 2.1.1 and 2.1.2 in the Fairtrade Trader Standard apply to
all manufacturers under this standard.
Additionally, for products with physically traceable Fairtrade cotton, requirements 2.1.3- 2.1.7 in the
Fairtrade Trader Standard apply. See below in section 5.2 on Product Composition and Sourcing for
more details.

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For products with cotton supplied through the Fairtrade Sourcing Program (FSP), requirements 2.1.8-
2.1.11 and 2.1.3 in the Fairtrade Trader Standard and 2.1.1-2.1.3 in the Fibre Crop Standard apply.

5.2 Product Composition and Sourcing


Intent: The requirements in this section outline the product composition rules for textile goods produced
under Fairtrade conditions. Goods produced in Fairtrade certified textile supply chains may be made of
100% Fairtrade cotton, Fairtrade cotton blended with other non-cotton fibres, or made with responsible
fibres that meet applicable Fairtrade responsible fibre criteria. There are different rules regarding use of
the Fairtrade Mark, claims, and references to Fairtrade depending on the composition of a product.
Requirements in this section apply to the essential parts of the textile product/garment and include fabric,
lining, and filling.

5.2.1 Products with 100% Fairtrade cotton

Core A 100% Fairtrade cotton product is made of pure cotton which is sourced solely from
Fairtrade certified producer organisations.
Year 0

Guidance: The following exclusions apply for the following non-essential components:
• edgings and trimmings which are not an integral part of the product. Filling is considered to be an essential component rather
than a trim and therefore not excluded ;
• buttons and buckles which are covered with textile materials;
• accessories, decorations, ribbons, threads/bands added at specific/limited points of the product;
• pocket linings and constructed waistbands;
• stitching.
When the items are manufactured in supply chains that are certified at all stages against the Fairtrade Textile Standard with
100 % Fairtrade cotton, the FAIRTRADE Textile Production Mark and the FAIRTRADE Cotton Mark may be used.

5.2.2 Blended products containing Fairtrade cotton and other non-cotton fibres

Core Blended products with Fairtrade cotton are made up of at least 50% Fairtrade cotton, and
blended with fibres other than cotton. The cotton in the product is sourced solely from
Year 0 Fairtrade certified producer organizations. For workwear and uniforms Fairtrade cotton
constitutes at least 30% of the finished product.

Guidance: Fibres “other than cotton” can include synthetic, man-made or natural fibres. This requirement covers products made
with Fairtrade cotton blended with other non-cotton fibres or yarns, e.g., poly-cotton pillowcases and T-shirts, cotton-lycra jeans,
cotton-wool socks.
Fairtrade acknowledges that, for functional reasons, the composition of the finished product can be achieved in different ways,
either by blending the fibres and/or mixing the yarns of different composition and both methods are allowed under this
requirement. This requirement is set based on the finished composition of the fabric.
When the items are manufactured in supply chains that are certified at all stages against the Fairtrade Textile Standard with
Fairtrade cotton, the FAIRTRADE Textile Production Mark and the FAIRTRADE Cotton Mark may be used.

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5.2.3 Products containing responsible fibres other than Fairtrade cotton

Core Products made with non-Fairtrade fibres may be sold under Fairtrade terms as a Fairtrade
Textile as long as the fibre and scheme behind it meet Fairtrade’s responsible fibre criteria,
Year 0 are included on the Fairtrade responsible fibre list, and the fibre is processed in a fully
Fairtrade certified supply chain from ginning stage onward. The responsible fibre content rules
from the approved fibre scheme apply in this category.

Guidance: Fibre content rules may differ from one scheme to another, therefore the rules from each approved scheme apply for
products containing responsible fibres. A fibre is a natural or man-made substance that can be spun into filament, thread, or rope
and in a next step be woven, knitted, matted, or bound. The Fairtrade responsible fibre criteria are provided in annex 2.
When items made with Fairtrade approved responsible fibres are manufactured in supply chains that are certified at all stages
against the Fairtrade Textile Standard, the FAIRTRADE Textile Production Mark may be used together with the applicable
responsible fibre label.

5.2.4 Multi-component textiles and non-textile products with Fairtrade cotton

Core For “Fairtrade cotton multi-component textiles and non-textile products” the cotton content of
the product must be 100% Fairtrade cotton. Blended cotton or other responsible fibres may
Year 0 not be used in a multi-component product when using the FAIRTRADE Cotton Mark.
If multi-component textiles and non-textile products are produced using other responsible
fibres, requirement 5.2.3 applies.

Guidance: The category multi-component textiles and non-textile products covers products made of cotton fabrics with fabrics of
other compositions and includes:
• filled products, e.g., pillows and duvets (with a 100% cotton cover and polyester filling);
• non-filled products, for example, cotton T-shirts with silk panels/appliqués or a cotton jacket with silk lining;
• products made up of cotton parts combined with non-textile parts such as leather, wood, feathers or metal. Examples of such
products include cotton canvas trainers and garden parasols.
When the items are manufactured in supply chains that are certified at all stages against the Fairtrade Textile Standard with
Fairtrade cotton, the FAIRTRADE Textile Production Mark and the FAIRTRADE Cotton Mark may be used.

5.3 Contracts
Intent: To ensure transparency in trading relationships between the suppliers throughout the complete
textile supply chain, as well as to the brand owner who is the buyer responsible for the purchase order.
Contracts set the framework for Fairtrade trade operations.

5.3.1 Trade with Fairtrade affiliated partners

Core To maintain a fully certified supply chain for a product and for use of the Fairtrade Mark (see
section 5.5) you sell only to entities that are either certified against Fairtrade Standards or
Year 0 have a contract with Fairtrade International or a National Fairtrade Organization.
If you transfer goods through an agent who takes ownership of the product, that agent must
have a Fairtrade International ID.

5.3.2 Purchase contracts between suppliers and buyers

Core

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Year 0 You sign binding purchase contracts with your suppliers and buyers when applicable, or their
agents on their behalf, to ensure responsible purchasing practices. Contracts follow industry
regulations, and at a minimum clearly indicate:
• agreed volumes;
• quality;
• prices that allow for paying living wages within parameters of this Standard (see
3.5.2);
• payment terms that are transparent and traceable;
• feasible lead times;
• procedures in case of quality problems;
• terms of delivery using international commercial terms (Incoterms);
• definition or mentioning of “Force Majeure”;
• agreement on applicable jurisdiction; and
• a dispute resolution mechanism to resolve conflicts.

Guidance: Feasible lead times are negotiated between suppliers and support reasonable working hours and avoid overtime for
workers in supplier operations and outsourcing.

5.4 Purchasing seed cotton


Intent: This section covers the purchase of Fairtrade certified seed cotton and is applicable only to
buyers of Fairtrade cotton for use in a Fairtrade Textile supply chain.
Seed Cotton is the seeds and fibre of all commercially grown species of the cotton plant: Gossypium
hirsutum (upland cotton), Gossypium herbaceum, Gossypium arboretum, and Gossypium barbadense
(e.g., PIMA, Giza).

5.4.1 Product Sourcing

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core Except where specifically provided in this standard, all cotton in Fairtrade traceable cotton
products must be sourced originally from certified producers.
Year 0
Where there is insufficient availability of Fairtrade cotton combers, it is permitted to make
cotton wool pads out of up to 20% non-Fairtrade cotton combers, provided that the
manufacturer subsequently purchases an equivalent volume of Fairtrade cotton and uses it in
the manufacture of a non-Fairtrade product. Any such substitution must be clearly reported in
the quarterly flow of goods report.

5.4.2 Women growers

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core In case of women growers, payments are made directly to the woman (not to the husband or
male partner).
Year 0

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5.4.3 Sourcing plan

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core Sourcing Plans must cover each harvest. Sourcing plans must be renewed a minimum of
three months before they expire.
Year 0

5.4.4 Buying Fairtrade eligible cotton

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core Buyers of seed cotton may buy seed cotton as Fairtrade eligible (see definitions), and sell
the lint or derived products as Fairtrade provided that the conditions below are met:
Year 0
• To be Fairtrade eligible, the seed cotton has to have been produced as Fairtrade.
• When the buyer of Fairtrade eligible seed cotton sells cotton lint or derived products
as Fairtrade, the buyer must notify the supplying producers within 15 days of the sale.
The buyer must inform each of the supplying producers of the volumes of their
Fairtrade eligible seed cotton sold as Fairtrade, of the corresponding Fairtrade price
adjustment (the difference between the market price and the Fairtrade Price, if
applicable), and of the Fairtrade Premium due.
• When the buyer of Fairtrade eligible seed cotton sells only a certain percentage of the
total Fairtrade eligible seed cotton as Fairtrade, then this percentage is applied to
each producer‘s supplied volume, and the Premium and price adjustment (if
applicable) are calculated pro rata. If the second buyer (the buyer of the cotton lint or
derived product) requests in writing for cotton from a specific producer, the Fairtrade
price adjustment and Premium is to be paid to that specific producer.

Guidance: For example: 2 producers supply their Fairtrade eligible seed cotton to the same buyer, whereby producer A supplies
100 MT and producer B supplies 200 MT. (The second buyer did not request in writing for cotton from a specific producer). Out of
the total 300MT, the buyer only sells 30 MT on as Fairtrade (10% of the total Fairtrade eligible volume supplied).Then it is
considered that 10% of each producer’s volume has been sold as Fairtrade. Producer A will receive Premium and price
adjustment calculated on 10MT (10% of 100 MT) and producer B on 20 MT (10% of 200 MT).
The buyer of Fairtrade eligible seed cotton must transfer the corresponding Fairtrade Premium and price adjustment to producers
according to requirement 5.4.9

5.4.5 Pre-finance

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core On request from the producer, the Fairtrade payer makes up to 60% of the value of the
contract available as pre-finance to the producer at any time after signing the contract. The
Year 0 pre-finance must be made available at least six weeks prior to shipment.
Contract Production operators should refer to the Contracts chapter A.2.3 of the Contract
Production Standard.

5.4.6 Pricing for seed cotton from contract production

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

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Core In the case of contract production (in India and Pakistan), the Fairtrade Minimum Price is the
Minimum Price paid by the promoting body to the registered producers. The promoting body
Year 0 can deduct Direct Fairtrade Costs amounts of up to a maximum of EUR 0.04 per kg from the
Minimum Price or market price (whichever is higher), and pay at least the remaining amount
to the individual farmers.

5.4.7 Staple length based Prices for South Asia

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core For South Asia, the Fairtrade minimum prices for Gossypium hirsutum, Gossypium
herbaceum and Gossypium arboreumis are set according to staple length categories (see
Year 0 table of Fairtrade Minimum Prices). In the case of India, these categories are based on the
classification system defined by the Cotton Corporation of India:
• The Fairtrade Minimum Prices for staple lengths of 25mm and longer refer to Medium
Long Staple varieties (25mm to 27mm), to Long Staple varieties (27.5mm to 32mm)
and to Extra Long Staple (32.5mm and above).
• The Fairtrade Minimum Prices for staple lengths of 24.5mm and shorter refer to Short
Staple varieties (20mm and below) and Medium Staple varieties (20.5mm to 24.5mm).

5.4.8 Payment Terms

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core Payment must be made upon receipt of the product.

Year 0

5.4.9 Late payment

Applies to: Fairtrade cotton buyer

Core For contracts involving Fairtrade payers, producers and conveyors, the conveyor must
transfer the Fairtrade Premium and the price adjustment (where applicable) within 30 days
Year 0 following the end of each quarter as follows:
By April 30th, transfer of all Fairtrade Premium received in quarter 1;
By July 31st, transfer of all Fairtrade Premium received in quarter 2;
By October 30th, transfer of all Fairtrade Premium received in quarter 3;
By January 31st, transfer of all Fairtrade Premium received in quarter 4 (of the previous year).

5.5 Use of Fairtrade trademarks and communication


Intent: To ensure that the Fairtrade Mark, claims, and reference to Fairtrade are used appropriately.

Requirements for use of the FAIRTRADE trademark are outlined in the Fairtrade Trader Standard
section 1.2 (requirements 1.2.1 - 1.2.3), and applicable “Trademark use Guidelines”. For details on using

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the Fairtrade Textile Production mark, please contact your local National Fairtrade Organization or
Fairtrade International at artwork@fairtrade.net.

5.6 Requirements for brand owners


Intent: The following requirements apply to buyers of textiles produced under Fairtrade terms. The buyer
is the brand owner that initiates a purchase order and is committed to fulfil the requirements in this
section but is not certified against them.

5.6.1 Contract with an NFO or Fairtrade International

Applies to: brand owners

You have a contractual relationship with a national Fairtrade organization or with Fairtrade International
that communicates publically on your commitment to Fairtrade.

5.6.2 Contract with Fairtrade supplier

Applies to: brand owners

You have a binding legal contract with your supplier, or agent on the behalf of your supplier, which
supports their compliance with the Fairtrade Textile Standard and maintains responsible purchasing
practices. The contract includes the following:
• agreed volumes;
• quality;
• prices that allow for paying living wages within parameters of this Standard with the portion for
living wages clearly marked;
• payment terms that are transparent and traceable;
• feasible lead times;
• procedures in case of quality problems;
• terms of delivery using international commercial terms (Incoterms);
• definition or mentioning of “Force Majeure”;
• agreement on applicable jurisdiction; and
• an alternative dispute resolution mechanism to resolve conflicts.
If you are represented by an agent you are responsible for signing and fulfilling the contract with the
supplier.
You do not change the terms of the contract once the contract is executed.

Guidance: Feasible lead times are negotiated between supplier and buyer and support reasonable working hours and avoid
overtime for workers in supplier operations.

5.6.3 Long-term commitments

Applies to: brand owners

You have a long term commitment with your suppliers, so they can in turn have long-term contracts with
their suppliers.

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Guidance: The intent is to promote long-term relationships and to enable producers to plan ahead. In this context long-term
means 2 years or more.

5.6.4 Increasing Fairtrade cotton content

Applies to: brand owners

You set up a plan demonstrating how you increase the Fairtrade cotton content in your line.

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Annex 1 Prohibited Materials List for Textiles (PMLT)

This list comprises substances that are not allowed for use in Fairtrade textile production.
Production includes any activity that operators certified under the Fairtrade Textile Standard are involved
in such as post-harvest treatment, dyeing, production processes, storage and transportation. The
substances are prohibited for use in order to reduce the negative health impacts on workers and the
environment.

The list includes substances of very high concern (SVHC) which are carcinogenic and highly toxic
substances and substances that, according to current scientific knowledge, may be injurious to human
health and reproduction. They may have serious effects on the environment. This list replaces the
Prohibited Materials List in the Fairtrade Trader standard for operators certified under the Fairtrade
Textile Standard.

The structure of the list


The list contains the following information:

Substance: specifies the name of the material organized in the following sub-categories:

Chemical Abstract Service (CAS)3 registry number is provided as reference. CAS is a comprehensive
registry over chemical substance information.

Reference list: The list shows in three columns the international lists and regulations that reflect
substances of very high concern to human health and the environment. These include:
• REACH4: Regulation 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning
the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals, and its amendment
(EC) 552/2009. This includes the ‘candidate list of substances of very high concern for
authorisation’ of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA).
• OEKO-TEX®5: A test and certification system is for all types of textiles tested for harmful
substances. The Oeko-Tex 100 Standard is centrally issued by the International Association
for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology Textile (Zurich).
• GOTS6: Global Organic Textile Standard prohibited substance lists.
The list is organized by category as follows:
• Substances of very high concern according to REACH
• Endocrine disruptors
• Dyestuffs and pigments classified as carcinogenic
• Dyestuffs classified as allergenic
• Carcinogenic Aryl amines, which can be formed through cleavage of one or more azo bonds
of azo dyes
• Additional Biocides used in textile production

3
www.cas.org/content/chemical-substances
4
ec.europa.eu/enterprise/sectors/chemicals/reach/index_en.htm
5
www.oeko-tex.com/en/manufacturers/concept/oeko_tex_standard_100/oeko_tex_standard_100.xhtml
6
www.global-standard.org/images/GOTS_Version4-01March2014.pdf

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
Substances of very high concern according to REACH
4,4'- Diaminodiphenylmethane (MDA) 101-77-9 x x x
[4-[[4-anilino-1-naphthyl][4-(dimethylamino)phenyl]methylene]cyclohexa- 2580-56-5 x x x
2,5-dien-1-ylidene] dimethylammonium chloride (C.I. Basic Blue 26) [with
≥ 0.1% of Michler's ketone (EC No. 202-027-5) or Michler's base (EC No.
202-959-2)]
[4-[4,4'-bis(dimethylamino) benzhydrylidene]cyclohexa-2,5-dien-1- 548-62-9 x x x
ylidene]dimethylammonium chloride (C.I. Basic Violet 3) [with ≥ 0.1% of
Michler's ketone (EC No. 202-027-5) or Michler's base (EC No. 202-959-
2)]
[Phthalato(2-)]dioxotrilead 69011-06-9 x x x
1-bromopropane (n-propyl bromide) 106-94-5 x x x
1-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) 872-50-4 x x x
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8-branched alkyl esters, C7-rich 71888-89-6 x x x
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di C6 - C10 alkylesters; 1,2- 68515-51-5 x x x
benzenedicarboxylic acid, mixed decyl octyl and hexyl diesters with > 68648-93-1
0.3% of dihexyl phthalate
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched and linear alkyl esters 68515-42-4 x x x
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, dihexylester, branched and linear 68515-50-4 x x x
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, dipentylester, branched and linear 84777-06-0 x x x
1,2-bis(2-methoxyethoxy)ethane (TEGDME,triglyme) 112-49-2 x x x
1,2-Dichloroethane 107-06-2 x x x
1,2-Diethoxyethane 629-14-1 x x x
1,2-dimethoxyethane,ethylene glycol dimethyl ether (EGDME) 110-71-4 x x x
1,2,3-trichloropropane 96-18-4 x x x
1,3,5-Tris(oxiran-2-ylmethyl)-1,3,5-triazinane-2,4,6-trione (TGIC) 2451-62-9 x x x
1,3,5-tris[(2S and 2R)-2,3-epoxypropyl]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-(1H,3H,5H)- 59653-74-6 x x x
trione (β-TGIC)
2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4,6-ditertpentylphenol (UV-328) 25973-55-1 x x x
2-benzotriazol-2-yl-4,6-di-tert-butylphenol (UV-320) 3846-71-7 x x x
2-Ethoxyethanol 110-80-5 x x x
2-Ethoxyethyl acetate 111-15-9 x x x
2-ethylhexyl 10-ethyl-4,4-dioctyl-7-oxo-8-oxa-3,5-dithia-4- 15571-58-1 x x x
stannatetradecanoate (DOTE)
2-Methoxyaniline,o-Anisidine 90-04-0 x x x
2-Methoxyethanol 109-86-4 x x x
2,2'-dichloro-4,4'-methylenedianiline 101-14-4 x x x
2,4-Dinitrotoluene 121-14-2 x x x
3-ethyl-2-methyl-2-(3-methylbutyl)-1,3-oxazolidine 143860-04-2 x x x
4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol 140-66-9 x x x
4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol, ethoxylated [covering well-defined - x x x
substances and UVCB substances, polymers and homologues]
4-Aminoazobenzene 60-09-3 x x x
4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine (toluene-2,4-diamine) 95-80-7 x x x

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
4-Nonylphenol, branched and linear [substances with a linear and/or - x x x
branched alkyl chain with a carbon number of 9 covalently bound in
position 4 to phenol, covering also UVCB- and well-defined substances
which include any of the individual isomers or a combination thereof]
4-Nonylphenol, branched and linear, ethoxylated [substances with a - x x x
linear and/or branched alkyl chain with a carbon number of 9 covalently
bound in position 4 to phenol, ethoxylated covering UVCB- and well-
defined substances, polymers and homologues, which include any of the
individual isomers and/or combinations thereof]
4,4'-bis(dimethylamino)-4''-(methylamino)trityl alcohol [with ≥ 0.1% of 561-41-1 x x x
Michler's ketone (EC No. 202-027-5) or Michler's base (EC No. 202-959-
2)]
4,4'-bis(dimethylamino)benzophenone (Michler’s ketone) 90-94-8 x x x
4,4'-methylenedi-o-toluidine 838-88-0 x x x
4,4'-oxydianiline and its salts 101-80-4 x x x
5-tert-butyl-2,4,6-trinitro-m-xylene (Musk xylene) 81-15-2 x x x
6-methoxy-m-toluidine (p-cresidine) 120-71-8 x x x
Acetic acid, lead salt, basic 51404-69-4 x x x
Acids generated from chromium trioxide and their oligomers. Names of 7738-94-5 x x x
the acids and their oligomers: Chromic acid, Dichromic acid, Oligomers of 13530-68-2
chromic acid and dichromic acid.
Acrylamide 79-06-1 x x x
Alkanes, C10-13, chloro (Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins) 85535-84-8 x x x
Ammonium dichromate 7789-09-5 x x x
Ammonium pentadecafluorooctanoate (APFO) 3825-26-1 x x x
Anthracene 120-12-7 x x x
Anthracene oil 90640-80-5 x x x
Anthracene oil, anthracene paste 90640-81-6 x x x
Anthracene oil, anthracene paste, anthracene fraction 91995-15-2 x x x
Anthracene oil, anthracene paste, distn. lights 91995-17-4 x x x
Anthracene oil, anthracene-low 90640-82-7 x x x
Arsenic acid 7778-39-4 x x x
Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) 85-68-7 x x x
Biphenyl-4-ylamine 92-67-1 x x x
Bis (2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP) 117-81-7 x x x
Bis(2-methoxyethyl) ether 111-96-6 x x x
Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate 117-82-8 x x x
Bis(pentabromophenyl) ether (decabromodiphenyl ether) (DecaBDE) 1163-19-5 x x x
Bis(tributyltin) oxide (TBTO) 56-35-9 x x x
Boric acid 10043-35-3 x x x
11113-50-1
Cadmium 7440-43-9 x x x
Cadmium chloride 10108-64-2 x x x
Cadmium fluoride 7790-79-6 x x x

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
Cadmium oxide 1306-19-0 x x x
Cadmium sulphate 10124-36-4 x x x
31119-53-6
Cadmium sulphide 1306-23-6 x x x
Calcium arsenate 7778-44-1 x x x
Chromium trioxide 1333-82-0 x x x
Cobalt dichloride 7646-79-9 x x x
Cobalt(II) carbonate 513-79-1 x x x
Cobalt(II) diacetate 71-48-7 x x x
Cobalt(II) dinitrate 10141-05-6 x x x
Cobalt(II) sulphate 10124-43-3 x x x
Cyclohexane-1,2-dicarboxylic anhydride [1], cis-cyclohexane-1,2- 85-42-7 x x x
dicarboxylic anhydride [2], trans-cyclohexane-1,2-dicarboxylic anhydride 13149-00-3
[3] [The individual cis- [2] and trans- [3] isomer substances and all 14166-21-3
possible combinations of the cis- and trans-isomers [1] are covered by
this entry]
Diarsenic pentaoxide 1303-28-2 x x x
Diarsenic trioxide 1327-53-3 x x x
Diazene-1,2-dicarboxamide (C,C'-azodi(formamide)) (ADCA) 123-77-3 x x x
Diboron trioxide 1303-86-2 x x x
Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) 84-74-2 x x x
Dibutyltin dichloride (DBTC) 683-18-1 x x x
Dichromium tris(chromate) 24613-89-6
Diethyl sulphate 64-67-5 x x x
Dihexyl phthalate 84-75-3 x x x
Diisobutyl phthalate 84-69-5 x x x
Diisopentylphthalate 605-50-5 x x x
Dimethyl sulphate 77-78-1 x x x
Dinoseb (6-sec-butyl-2,4-dinitrophenol) 88-85-7 x x x
Dioxobis(stearato)trilead 12578-12-0 x x x
Dipentyl phthalate (DPP) 131-18-0 x x x
Disodium 3,3'-[[1,1'-biphenyl]-4,4'-diylbis(azo)]bis(4-aminonaphthalene-1- 573-58-0 x x x
sulphonate) (C.I. Direct Red 28)
Disodium 4-amino-3-[[4'-[(2,4-diaminophenyl)azo][1,1'-biphenyl]-4-yl]azo] 1937-37-7 x x x
-5-hydroxy-6-(phenylazo)naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate (C.I. Direct Black
38)
Disodium tetraborate, anhydrous 1303-96-4 x x x
1330-43-4
12179-04-3
Fatty acids, C16-18, lead salts 91031-62-8 x x x
Formaldehyde, oligomeric reaction products with aniline 25214-70-4 x x x
Formamide 75-12-7 x x x
Furan 110-00-9 x x x
Henicosafluoroundecanoic acid 2058-94-8 x x x

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
Heptacosafluorotetradecanoic acid 376-06-7 x x x
Hexabromocyclododecane (HBCDD) and all major diastereoisomers 25637-99-4 x x x
identified: Alpha-hexabromocyclododecane Beta- 3194-55-6
hexabromocyclododecane Gamma-hexabromocyclododecane 134237-50-6
134237-51-7
134237-52-8
Hexahydromethylphthalic anhydride [1], Hexahydro-4-methylphthalic 25550-51-0 x x x
anhydride [2], Hexahydro-1-methylphthalic anhydride [3], Hexahydro-3- 19438-60-9
methylphthalic anhydride [4] [The individual isomers [2], [3] and [4] 48122-14-1
(including their cis- and trans- stereo isomeric forms) and all possible 5711029-9
combinations of the isomers [1] are covered by this entry]
Hydrazine 302-01-2 x x x
7803-57-8
Imidazolidine-2-thione (2-imidazoline-2-thiol) 96-45-7 x x x
Lead bis(tetrafluoroborate) 13814-96-5 x x x
Lead chromate 7758-97-6 x x x
Lead chromate molybdate sulphate red (C.I. Pigment Red 104) 12656-85-8 x x x
Lead cyanamidate 20837-86-9 x x x
Lead di(acetate) 301-04-2 x x x
Lead diazide, Lead azide 13424-46-9 x x x
Lead dinitrate 10099-74-8 x x x
Lead dipicrate 6477-64-1 x x x
Lead hydrogen arsenate 7784-40-9 x x x
Lead monoxide (lead oxide) 1317-36-8 x x x
Lead oxide sulfate 12036-76-9 x x x
Lead styphnate 15245-44-0 x x x
Lead sulfochromate yellow (C.I. Pigment Yellow 34) 1344-37-2 x x x
Lead titanium trioxide 12060-00-3 x x x
Lead titanium zirconium oxide 12626-81-2 x x x
Lead(II) bis(methanesulfonate) 17570-76-2 x x x
Methoxyacetic acid 625-45-6 x x x
Methyloxirane (Propylene oxide) 75-56-9 x x x
N-methylacetamide 79-16-3 x x x
N-pentyl-isopentylphthalate 776297-69-9 x x x
N,N-dimethylacetamide 127-19-5 x x x
N,N-dimethylformamide 68-12-2 x x x
N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-4,4'-methylenedianiline (Michler’s base) 101-61-1 x x x
o-aminoazotoluene 97-56-3 x x x
o-Toluidine 95-53-4 x x x
Orange lead (lead tetroxide) 1314-41-6 x x x
Pentacosafluorotridecanoic acid 72629-94-8 x x x
Pentadecafluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) 335-67-1 x x x
Pentalead tetraoxide sulphate 12065-90-6 x x x
Pentazinc chromate octahydroxide 49663-84-5 x x x

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
Phenolphthalein 77-09-8 x x x
Pitch, coal tar, high temp. 65996-93-2 x x x
Potassium chromate 7789-00-6 x x x
Potassium dichromate 7778-50-9 x x x
Potassium hydroxyoctaoxodizincatedichromate 11103-86-9 x x x
Pyrochlore, antimony lead yellow 8012-00-8 x x x
reaction mass of 2-ethylhexyl 10-ethyl-4,4-dioctyl-7-oxo-8-oxa-3,5-dithia- - x x x
4-stannatetradecanoate and 2-ethylhexyl 10-ethyl-4-[[2-[(2-
ethylhexyl)oxy]-2-oxoethyl]thio]-4-octyl-7-oxo-8-oxa-3,5-dithia-4-
stannatetradecanoate (reaction mass of DOTE and MOTE7)
Silicic acid (H2Si2O5), barium salt (1:1), lead-doped[with lead (Pb) content 68784-75-8 x x x
above the applicable generic concentration limit for ’toxicity for
reproduction’ Repr. 1A (CLP) or category 1 (DSD),the substance is a
member of the group entry of lead compounds, with index number 082-
001-00-6 in Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008]
Silicic acid, lead salt 11120-22-2 x x x
Sodium chromate 7775-11-3 x x x
Sodium dichromate 7789-12-0 x x x
10588-01-9
Sodium perborate, perboric acid, sodium salt EC number: x x x
239-172-9,
234-390-0
Sodium peroxometaborate 7632-04-4 x x x
Strontium chromate 7789-06-2 x x x
Sulfurous acid, lead salt, dibasic 62229-08-7 x x x
Tetraboron disodium heptaoxide, hydrate 12267-73-1 x x x
Tetraethyllead 78-00-2 x x x
Tetralead trioxide sulphate 12202-17-4 x x x
Trichloroethylene 79-01-6 x x x
Tricosafluorododecanoic acid 307-55-1 x x x
Triethyl arsenate 15606-95-8 x x x
Trilead bis(carbonate) dihydroxide 1319-46-6 x x x
Trilead diarsenate 3687-31-8 x x x
Trilead dioxide phosphonate 12141-20-7 x x x
Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate 115-96-8 x x x
Trixylyl phosphate 25155-23-1 x x x
Zirconia Aluminosilicate Refractory Ceramic Fibres are fibres covered by - x x x
index number 650-017-00-8 in Annex VI, part 3, table 3.1 of Regulation
(EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 16
December 2008 on classification, labelling and packaging of substances
and mixtures, and fulfil the three following conditions: a) oxides of
aluminium, silicon and zirconium are the main components present (in the
fibres) within variable concentration ranges b) fibres have a length
weighted geometric mean diameter less two standard geometric errors of

7
http://echa.europa.eu/documents/10162/a410b50c-11f9-49ca-9e8f-54f2a674b032

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
passor less micrometres (µm). c) alkaline oxide and alkali earth oxide
(Na2O+K2O+CaO+MgO+BaO) content less or equal to 18% by weight
α,α-Bis[4-(dimethylamino)phenyl]-4 (phenylamino)naphthalene-1- 6786-83-0 x x x
methanol (C.I. Solvent Blue 4) [with ≥ 0.1% of Michler's ketone (EC No.
202-027-5) or Michler's base (EC No. 202-959-2)]
Benzene 71-43-2 x x x
Polychlorinatedterphenyls(PCTs) - x x x
Tris (2,3 dibromopropyl) phosphate 126-72-7 x x x
Tris(aziridinyl)phosphinoxide 545-55-1 x x x
Polybromobiphenyls; Polybromi natedbiphenyls (PBB) 59536-65-1 x x x
2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8 x x x
Benzidine 92-87-5 x x x
4-Nitrobiphenyl 92-93-3 x x x
Di-μ-oxo-di-n-butylstanniohydroxyborane/ Dibutyltin hydrogen borate 75113-37-0 x x x
C8H19BO3Sn (DBB)
Pentachlorophenol (PCP) 87-86-5 x x x
Di-“isononyl” phthalate (DINP) 28553-12-0 x x x
68515-48-0 x x x
Di-“isodecyl” phthalate (DIDP) 26761-40-0 x x x
68515-49-1 x x x
Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) 117-84-0 x x x
Methylenediphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) 26447-40-5 x x x
Endocrine disruptors
Chlordane 57-74-9 x
Chlorothalonil 1897-45-6 x
Chlorpyrifos 2921-88-2 x
DDT 50-29-3 x
Heptachlor 76-44-8 x
Hexachlorobenzene 118-74-1 x
Maneb 12427-38-2 x
Parathion 56-38-2 x
Methoxychlor 72-43-5 x
Tributyltin oxide 56-35-9 x
Vinclozolin 50471-44-8 x
Aroclor 1221 11104-28-2 x
Bisphenol A 80-05-7 x
Genistein 446-72-0 x
Diethylstilbestrol 56-53-1 x
Dioxin 9014-42-0 x
4-methylbenzylidene 36861-47-9 x
Methylparaben 99-76-3 x
Nicotin 22083-74-5 x

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
Nonylphenol (4-Nonylphenol) 104-40-5 x
Octyphenol 27193-28-8 x
Sodium Fluoride 7681-49-4 x
PBDEs (Polybrominated Diphenyl Ethers) many x
substances
PCBs (Polychlorinated Biphenyls) many x
substances
Perchlorate (compounds) 7791-03-9 x x x
Dyestuffs and pigments classified as carcinogenic
C.I. Acid Red 26 3761-53-3 x x x
C.I. Basic Red 9 569-61-9 x x x
C.I. Basic Violet 14 632-99-5 x x x
C.I. Direct Black 38 1937-37-7 x x x
C.I. Direct Blue 6 2602-46-2 x x x
C.I. Direct Red 28 573-58-0 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 1 2475-45-8 x x x
C.I. Disperse Orange 11 82-28-0 x x x
C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 2832-40-8 x x x
C.I. Pigment Red 104 12656-85-8 x x x
C.I. Pigment Yellow 34 1344-37-2 x x x
Dyestuffs classified as allergenic
C.I. Disperse Blue 1 2475-45-8 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 3 2475-46-9 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 7 3179-90-6 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 26 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 35 12222-75-2 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 102 12222-97-8 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 106 12223-01-7 x x x
C.I. Disperse Blue 124 61951-51-7 x x x
C.I. Disperse Brown 1 23355-64-8 x x x
C.I. Disperse Orange 1 2581-69-3 x x x
C.I. Disperse Orange 3 730-40-5 x x x
C.I. Disperse Orange 37 x x x
C.I. Disperse Orange 76 x x x
C.I. Disperse Red 1 2872-52-8 x x x
C.I. Disperse Red 11 2872-48-2 x x x
C.I. Disperse Red 17 3179-89-3 x x x
C.I. Disperse Yellow 1 119-15-3 x x x
C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 2832-40-8 x x x
C.I. Disperse Yellow 9 6373-73-5 x x x
C.I. Disperse Yellow 39 x x x
C.I. Disperse Yellow 49 x x x

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Reference list of prohibited materials


Substance CAS REACH Oeko Tex GOTS
100/SteP
Carcinogenic Aryl amines, which can be formed through cleavage of one or more azo bonds of azo dyes
4-Aminobiphenyl 92-67-1 x x x
Benzidine 92-87-5 x x x
4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2 x x x
2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8 x x x
o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3 x x x
2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene 99-55-8 x x x
p-Chloroaniline 106-47-8 x x x
2,4-Diaminoanisole 615-05-4 x x x
4,4’-Diaminobiphenylmethane 101-77-9 x x x
3,3’-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1 x x x
3,3’-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4 x x x
3,3’-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7 x x x
3,3’-Dimethyl-4,4’- diaminobiphenylmethane 838-88-0 x x x
p-Cresidine 120-71-8 x x x
4,4’-Methylene-bis- (2-chloroaniline) 101-14-4 x x x
4,4’-Oxydianiline 101-80-4 x x x
4,4’-Thiodianiline 139-65-1 x x x
o-Toluidine 95-53-4 x x x
2,4-Toluylendiamine 95-80-7 x x x
2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7 x x x
o-Anisidine (2-Methoxyaniline) 90-04-0 x x x
2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1 x x x
2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7 x x x
4-Aminoazobenzene 60-09-3 x x X
Additional Biocides used in textile production
2-octyl-2H-isothiazol-3-one (OIT) 26530-20-1 x
Bronopol 52-51-7 x
Carbendazim 10605-21-7 x
Chlorocresol (PCMC) 59-50-7 x
Dibutyltin (DBT) 1002-53-5 x x x
Dioctyltin (DOT) 94410-05-6 x x x
Tributyltin (TBT) 56573-85-4 x x x
Triphenyltin (TPhT) 668-34-8 x x x
Tricyclohexyltin (TCyHT) 6056-50-4 x x
Trioctyltin (TOT) 869-59-0 x x
Tripropyltin (TPT) 761-44-4 x x
2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol 4901-51-3 x x x
2,3,4,6-Tetrachlorophenol 58-90-2 x x x
2,3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol 935-95-5 x x x

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Annex 2 Responsible Fibre Criteria

The Fairtrade Textile Standard allows the use of “responsible fibres” 8 in textile
product composition (see requirement 5.2.3 on products with responsible
fibres).

5.2.3 Products with responsible fibres (other than Fairtrade cotton)


Non-Fairtrade responsible fibre products may be sold under Fairtrade terms as long as the
fibre and scheme behind it are included on the Fairtrade responsible fibre list (Annex 2) and
processed in a fully Fairtrade certified supply chain from ginning stage onward. The responsible
fibre content rules from the approved fibre scheme apply in this category.

This annex defines what Fairtrade understands as responsible fibres, whether socioeconomically or
environmentally responsible, or both and what the criteria are for considering them as such Only fibres
assured by the schemes which are approved by Fairtrade for responsible fibres, can be used in processing
under the Fairtrade Textile Standard terms.
The list of approved schemes can be found on the Fairtrade website and is periodically reviewed and
updated.
For information regarding the approval process for responsible fibre schemes please contact
standards-pricing@fairtrade.net.

The criteria for responsible fibres that are recognized under the Fairtrade Textile Standard are guided by
the following principle:
Sustainable fibres are more environmentally friendly and/or socioeconomically beneficial than other
comparable, common fibres with same material composition.

The following environmental or socioeconomic criteria must be met by a programme or scheme, along with
criteria for its management, in order to be considered a “responsible fibre” under the Fairtrade Textile
Standard:
Environmental criteria
The scheme includes criteria related to the production practices of the fibre that guarantee improved
management of water and other natural resources, a minimised harmful impact, protection and
enhancement of biodiversity, and that avoids the use of genetically modified crops.

Socioeconomic criteria
The scheme includes criteria that guarantee the improvement of working and living conditions of the
farmers and workers involved in the fibre production at farm level along the supply chain.

Management system of the scheme


The scheme has a credible assurance system, in particular proper controls regarding its claims and product
traceability. The scheme has good governance through multi-stakeholder processes and is a leading body
in the sector.

8
A fibre is a natural or man-made substance that can be spun into filament, thread or rope and in a next step be woven, knitted,
matted or bound.

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Annex 3 Freedom of Association Protocol

Agreed by the [Fairtrade certified Company] hereinafter referred as “the Company”

1. The Company agrees to respect the human rights of the workers concerned and, in particular, the
human right of all workers to form or join trade unions and to collectively bargain the conditions under
which their work is performed. The Fairtrade Standard includes requirements for how certified
companies shall respect rights under the Freedom of Association.
2. The Company will not do anything that would have the effect of discouraging workers form forming or
joining a trade union. The Company will not refuse any genuine opportunity to bargain collectively with
workers even where it is not legally obligated to do so. The Company agrees to allow representatives
of trade union organizations that represent workers in the sector or in the region to meet with workers
on company premises at agreed times and for these meetings to be conducted without any interference
or surveillance. The Company must not interfere in any way with the election by workers of their
representatives. This includes conducting or monitoring or certification of elections.
3. The Company will offer the representatives necessary facilities and, within reason, time off to carry out
their functions, without requiring them to work overtime. Representatives can be expected to balance
these functions with operational requirements, but not to the extent that they are unable to adequately
represent workers.
4. The Company agrees to promote labour relations based on mutual respect, frequent dialogue and
procedural fairness between the employer, on the one hand, and workers and their trade unions on
the other.
5. The Company agrees that capacity building of workers is essential for them to exercise their rights.
The Company agrees to provide the facilities and the time off for workers so that all workers can be
made aware of their rights. The Company also agrees to provide facilities and time off for union
representatives and other elected representatives to improve their negotiation skills and knowledge of
labour legislation.
6. The Company agrees to give due care to promote the empowerment of women by means of adequate
training, capacity building, guidance, encouragement and assistance as necessary.
7. Given the importance of protecting trade union rights the Company agrees to communicate its
commitment to Freedom of Association by posting a Right to Unionise Guarantee in the workplace in
places that are visible for all workers. The Right to Unionise Guarantee shall be communicated to all
workers, including temporary, seasonal and sub-contracted workers in their own language.

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8. The Right to Unionise Guarantee shall be worded as follows:


[Company], in accordance with international human rights and Fairtrade requirements governing
freedom of association, hereby guarantees all employees of [Company] the right to join or to form a
union of their choice for the purposes of bargaining collectively with [Company] on working terms and
conditions.

[Company] will not discriminate against any employee nor victimise any employee for exercising this
right. Furthermore, [Company] will adopt a positive attitude towards any trade union organizers granted
access for the purposes of talking about the benefits of trade union membership.

[Company] also will ensure that the formation of an organizing committee in the workplace is free of
hindrance or interference or victimisation of the members of such a committee.

[Managing Director’s name], Managing Director, [Company], Date

9. Fairtrade will designate one or more local points of contact that can inform workers about their rights
and provide them with support to establish and operate trade unions in the workplace. The point(s) of
contact will include contact information of one or more established trade union organizations and will
be made available by Fairtrade producer service teams. The Ministry of Labour or a workers’ rights
advocacy organization may serve as a point of contact in addition to or instead of a trade union
organization. By signing this protocol, companies commit to communicating the goal of the points of
contact and posting relevant contact information in the workplace in a format and language accessible
to workers. The point of contact information is not required to be posted in workplaces where workers
have been given the choice to join a trade union and have chosen not to be unionised, or if the majority
of workers are already unionised.
10. Nothing in this Protocol shall set aside national legislation or the Fairtrade Standard for Hired Labour.

This Protocol was signed

Date:

Name:

On behalf of [Company]

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Annex 4 Green-Button-Standard: Process and Requirements for the
Recognition of Certification Labels (Meta-label approach), last checked 26
May 2024

https://gruener-knopf.de/media/686/download

B. 2 Criteria for recognition of certification labels for wet processes

No. Recognition Criterion Compliance Requirement

1 Environmental To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
Management System procedures in place that enable monitoring and improvement of the
relevant aspects of environmental performance within the facility.

2 Environmental Risk and To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require an
Impact Assessment environmental risk assessment, including identifying potential
environmental impacts and risks, classifying and prioritizing those
risks.

3 Chemical Management To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require the
nomination of at least one person who has responsibility for chemicals.
This requirement is based on:
ILO C155 Occupational Safety and Health Convention, 1981 (No. 155)

4 Chemical Storage and To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall include
Labelling requirements to safely store and appropriately label chemicals at least
for certified products.

5 Einsatz von Chemikalien To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall include
mandatory requirements for the documented use of all chemicals, at
least for the production of certified products.
Documented use refers to inventory of chemicals and maintenance of
records on chemical use.
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6 Hazardous Chemicals - To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall prohibit
Substances of Very High the use of substances of very high concern (SVHC) listed in the most
Concern (SVHC) current and authentic version of the Candidate List of substances of
very high concern for Authorisation (published in accordance with
Article 59(10) of the REACH Regulation).
If the standard defines derogations, deviations, or exceptions for a
defined use, compliance with the criterion is still achieved.
If the standard does not include a binding reference to the Candidate
List, then compliance with this criterion is still achieved if the standard
uses a binding Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL)
which reflects the results of the corresponding risk assessment by
means of listing those substances for which either usage restrictions or
exceptional acceptance apply.
This requirement is based on:
ECHA Candidate List

7 Chemicals Harmful to the To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall prohibit
Environment inputs that are classified with specific hazard statements (risk phrases)
related to environmental hazards in accordance with the codification
system of the Global Harmonized System (GHS) as published by the
United Nations at least for certified products.
If the standard requires an assessment of inputs according to the 'risk
phrase' classification according to EU Directive 67/548/EEC (amended
and appealed by Regulation EC 1272/2008) and prohibits the
equivalent risk phrases, compliance is still achieved.

8 Chemicals Harmful to To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall prohibit
Human Health inputs that are classified with specific hazard statements (risk phrases)
related to health hazards in accordance with the codification system of
the Global Harmonized System (GHS) as published by the United
Nations at least for certified products.
If the standard requires an assessment of inputs according to the 'risk
phrase' classification according to EU Directive 67/548/EEC (amended
and appealed by Regulation EC 1272/2008) and prohibits the
equivalent risk phrases, compliance is still achieved.

9 Hazard Communication To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
that Safety Data Sheets (SDS) are available at least for all chemical
inputs used for certified products.
A Safety Data Sheet (SDS) includes information about the properties
of the substance or mixture, its hazards, and instructions for handling,
disposal, and transport as well as first-aid, fire-fighting, and exposure
control measures.
This requirement is based on:
ILO C155 Occupational Safety and Health Convention, 1981 (No. 155)

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10 Chemical Residues To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall contain a
list of limit values for residues of specific groups of substances.

11 Personal Protective To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
Equipment (PPE) that adequate personal protective equipment (PPE) is provided to
employees by the employer.
This requirement is based on:
ILO C155 - Occupational Safety and Health Convention, 1981 (No.
155)
ILO R164 - Occupational Safety and Health Recommendation, 1981
(No. 164)
ILO R079 - Medical Examination of Young Persons Recommendation,
1946 (No. 79)

12 Training on Chemical To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
Handling and Exposure that anyone who handles or is exposed to chemicals is regularly
provided with appropriate instruction and training on how to safely
store and handle chemicals. Safety Data Sheets (SDS) shall serve as
reference documents.
Appropriate instruction and training refers to necessary measures
taken to protect workers and to ensure an effective control of chemical
risks at the workplace. This requires an efficient flow of information
from the manufacturers or importers to the users of chemicals on
potential hazards and on the safety precautions to be taken.
This requirement is based on:
ILO C155 - Occupational Safety and Health Convention, 1981 (No.
155)
ILO R177 - Chemicals Recommendation, 1990 (No. 177)

13 Wastewater Management To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
that wastewater is treated according to the legal standards in
a) a functional wastewater treatment plant operated by the facility
(direct discharge) or
b) a municipal wastewater plant (indirect discharge).

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14 Wastewater Parameters To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
mandatory wastewater analysis and compliance at least with
applicable legal requirements for wastewater treatment including limit
values with regard to pH-value, maximal effluent temperature, Total
Organic Carbon (TOC), Biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD),
Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), colour removal, residues of
(chemical) pollutants, and discharge routes.
The standard shall further define binding limits with values at least for:
a) pH-value and
b) maximal effluent temperature and
c) Total Organic Carbon (TOC), and/or
d) Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD).
If limit values differ, the stricter values shall apply.
The most current version of the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines serves
as the reference document for adequate limit values.

15 Water Consumption To achieve compliance with the criterion, the standard shall require
mandatory continuous monitoring of the facility's total water
consumption.
Total water consumption refers to all water used for the production
processes.

16 Energy Consumption To achieve compliance with the criterion, the standard shall require
mandatory continuous monitoring of the facility's total energy
consumption.
Total energy consumption refers to all energy consumed during the
production processes.

17 Waste Management To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
monitoring of waste streams and other discharges as well as their
disposal.

18 Reducing Waste Volume To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
measures to reduce total amounts of waste being produced.
Total amounts of waste refers to waste for disposal or recycling (and
not to material which is reused).

19 Air Pollution To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require
mandatory and continuous monitoring of total air emissions at least for
greenhouse gases (GHG) emitted by the facility.
In the case of textile production, air emissions include greenhouses
gases (GHG) such as CO2, SOx, and NOx, dust, and ozone depleting
substances.

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20 Reducing Air Pollution To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall include
mandatory requirements for the identification and implementation of
measures to reduce air emissions emitted by the facility, at least for
greenhouse gases (GHG).

21 Legal Compliance To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall include
mandatory requirements on compliance with at least national, regional,
and local laws and regulations.

22 Permits To achieve compliance with this criterion, the standard shall require all
relevant legal licence(s) or permit(s) necessary to ensure compliance
with all applicable environmental laws and regulations.

Annex 5 STeP by OEKO‑TEX® extract, last checked 7 June 2024:

https://www.oeko-tex.com/importedmedia/downloadfiles/STeP_by_OEKO-TEX_R__-_Standard_de.pdf

4.1.4 Banned Chemicals, MRSL


All the substances that are not permitted to be used in facilities certified by STeP by OEKO‑TEX® are
included in a comprehensive list in Annex 3. The chemicals list, SDS and any other information about the
chemical provided by manufacturer need to be checked against Annex 3. Produced products need to
meet the statutory regulations of the country in which the finished products are ultimately sold. A varie-
ty of organisations provide information about which chemicals are regulated in which countries. This
information is available in the form of lists. These lists are also a valuable source for determining poten-
tially hazardous substances and are listed in Annex 7.
It should be noted that the presence of a banned chemical listed either in a statutory regulation or an
RSL in the produced product may not necessarily be the result of the deliberate use of the relevant sub-
stance in production. These chemicals are also not permitted to appear as unintentional contaminants,
stabilisers or degradation products of a chemical that is used intentionally. The most well-known
example of this is the legal prohibition in many countries of certain azo dyestuffs that are cleavable into
carcinogenic arylamines during analysis.
Since there is a chance that chemicals used can contain impurities or contaminations of substances
listed in the STeP MRSL, Annex 3 (e.g. APEO's, phthalates etc.) , the facility should be aware of this.
Suppliers of commodity chemicals should be contacted in such cases when detected in wastewater
tests.
STeP by OEKO‑TEX® certified facilities shall define a strategy and appropriate measures and tools for
ensuring that the manufactured products do not represent a risk to the health of the end consumer
and do not conflict with the MRSL included in Annex 3. Certification in accordance with STANDARD 100
and LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO‑TEX® for the manufactured products is an efficient and cost-
effective way to fulfil this requirement.

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STeP / DTZ by OEKO-TEX® Chemikalienliste, Annex 3


[…]
3.3 Wastewater and sludge testing
Companies with wet processes need to have a detailed wastewater and sludge (if applicable) analysis
available. The substances and corresponding limit values and reporting limits defined in the STeP/DTZ
Chemical List (see below) and in Annex 5 shall be considered.
• Substances for which a limit value is defined or "testing required" is indicated shall be tested
• Substances for which only a reporting limit is defined should be tested
• Substances for which neither a limit value nor a reporting limit is defined do not need to be tested
[…]

The English version of the standard is the official version. Fairtrade offers translations into other languages for information purposes
only. Although Fairtrade strives to ensure accuracy in translations, the English version of the standard is the basis for all certification
decisions, particularly if conflicts on these decisions should arise.

Copyright © 2005 Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International e.V. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording
or otherwise without full attribution.

Fairtrade Textile Standard


70

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