CROCHET PATTERN

Funny frog

(only crochet hook)

1
 Who am I? Let me introduce
myself…

I am a croaker frog. Everyone in the

marsh knows me. I am a kind, playful, very
flexible, and business frog. I love gymnastics
and cooking delicious mosquitoes for dinner ...

My designer's name is Svetlana

Malyarik. She has been living in the world of
amigurumi for a long time and has released
many crochet patterns of various fairy-tale
characters. I am sure you will like them very
much. There are Witches, Baba Yaga, Dracula,
Astrologer, Santa, and many other patterns,
which you can find on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/PEARLandSTITCHart?ref=seller-
platform-mcnav

And Raverly: https://www.ravelry.com/designers/svetlana-

malyarik

Today she will tell and show

you how I was born. She tried to make a
detailed pattern of my body, my favorite
cap, slippers and chamomile flower. By
the way, all parts are crocheted with
only one crochet hook.

I am made from an aluminum

wireframe. My legs, arms, neck, and even
my fingers are flexible. I can stand on
my own, and hold light things.

This crochet pattern

consists of 48 pages and is
accompanied by more than 100
photographs. The finished frog
2
 using the materials stated in this pattern is ~10.2 inches / 26 cm tall
2(without a cap).

This pattern is a work of

authorship and it intends only for
personal use.
Full or partial reproduction and
distribution, sales, and publications of
the pattern on the Internet are
forbidden.
You are welcome to sell the
finished toy made from this pattern,
but please credit Svetlana Malyarik as
the designer.
I hope you will enjoy the process
of crocheting and be happy with the result!

Enjoy crocheting!
Best regards, Svetlana Malyarik.

© Translated from Russian into English by Ekaterina Borisova. Please, contact me for any updates and questions by e-mail:
Kassabbashi@mail.ru

3
The required materials and tools:

1. Yarn:
DK weight yarn Gazzal Baby Wool (50 g – 175 m, 40% merino wool, 20% polyamide, 40%
acrylic), color 838 green – 1,5 skeins, for the body of the frog.
4-ply weight yarn Iris (25 g – 150 m, 100% mercerized cotton), color 4510 dark green –
for warts.
4-ply weight yarn Iris (25 g – 150 m, 100% mercerized cotton), color 2102 black for the
pupils of the eyes
Sport weight yarn Velor Bobbinny (50 g – 225 m, 100% polyester), color 4501 white – 10
g, for the whites of the eyes.
Alize Angora Cold Simli (100gr – 500 m, 10% mohair, 10% wool, 75% acrylic, 5% metallic),
color 62 milk - 1 ball, for a bonnet.
Alize Angora Cold Simli (100gr – 500 m, 10% mohair, 10% wool, 75% acrylic, 5% metallic),
color 152 beige melange - 1 ball, for a bonneе.
Alize superlana klassik (100g - 280m, 25% wool, 75% acrylic), color 55 white - 20g, for a
shoes and a flower
Pekhorka Sheep wool (100g - 200m, 100% semi-coarse wool), milk color 166 - 50g, for a
shoes
Alize Cotton Gold (100g - 330m, 55% cotton, 45% acrylic), color 385 green - 20g, for a
stem of daisy.
Pekhorka kid's novelty (50g - 200m, 100% high volume acrylic), color 12 yellow - 20g, for
a flower.

2. Aluminum wire D=1.5 mm, 4.6 m in length

3. Aluminum wire D=2 mm, 1 m in length
4. Adhesive tape with 1,5-2 cm/0.5-0.7 inches in width
5. 1 mm, 1.5 mm, 1,75 mm, 2 mm, 2,5 mm crochet hook
6. Stuffing material (fiberfill/polyester)
7. Tapestry needle for sewing the parts
8. Pins for attaching the parts
9. Scissors and cutters
10.Stitch marker for indicating the beginning of the round

4
Abbreviations (US):
CH – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
DC – double crochet
TR – treble crochet
DTR – double treble crochet
Inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
Dec – decrease (2 sc together)
DC inc – increase (2 DC in one stitch)
DC dec – decrease (2 DC together)
* - repeat the indicated number of times
The number in brackets at the end of each row is the total number of stitches in this row.

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 Post double stitch ribbing
Front post stitches are raised crochet stitches on the surface of the fabric facing you.
You can create a front-post double-crochet (abbreviated FP dc) stitch with these steps
and some practice. Back post stitches appear to recede on the side of the crocheted
fabric that’s facing you. You can create a back-post double-crochet (abbreviated BP dc)
stitch with these steps and some practice.
Front post double crochet stitch:
1. Chain (ch) 2 for your first double crochet.
2. Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook from front to back between the posts of the
first and second double crochet of the row below, and then from back to front
again between the posts of the second and third stitches.
3. Yarn over and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch.

Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice.

6
7
 Back post double crochet stitch:
1. Chain (ch) 2 for your first double crochet.
2. Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook from back to front between the posts of the
first and second double crochet in the row below, and then from front to back again
between the posts of the second and third stitches.
3. Yarn over and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch. Yarn over and draw the
yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice.

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Start crocheting the frog from the arms. Join the fingers:
We will crochet them into the body later. Rnd 6: 3 sc to the little fingers, chain 3, 3
sc to the middle finger, chain 3, 6 sc to the
Arms (make 2): index finger, 3 sc to the chain, 3 sc to the
Start crocheting the arms from the middle finger, 3 sc to the chain, and 3 sc
fingers. to the little finger (30)

Fingers (make 8). Place a stitch marker and continue

Index, middle, little fingers, and thumb. crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 1: leave the tail of green Gazzal yarn
15 cm/5.9 inches long and start
crocheting with a 1.5 mm crochet hook.
Chain 2 and start crocheting in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: (sc, inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 3: 9 sc
Rnd 4: (sc, dec)*3 (6)
Rnd 5: 6 sc

Rnd 7: 3 sc, continue crocheting through

back loops only (where we have
crocheted sc to the chain in the previous
round) dec, sc,

Do not cut yarn of the last (little) finger.

Stuff the tips of the fingers with fiberfill
(so that they look round and secure the
wireframe inside).
Continue crocheting in a circle.
9
 Backside

Front side of
the chain

3 sc to the middle finger Rnd 8: 3 sc to the little finger, dec,

Continue crocheting through back loops 3 sc to the middle finger, dec, 6 sc to the
again: dec, sc, 6 sc to the index finger, on index finger, sc, 3 sc to the middle finger,
the backside 2 sc, 3 sc to the middle sc, 3 sc to the little finger (22)
finger, 2 sc on the backside, 3 sc to the
little finger (26)

10
In this way, we should get flat 3 sc to the middle finger, sc through front
membranes between the fingers: loop, 3 sc to the index finger, chain 2, 6 sc
to the thumb

The right arm:

In the next round, attach the first finger. 2 sc to the chain, 3 sc to the index finger,
Rnd 9: 3 sc to the little finger, continue sc through the remaining loop, 3 sc to the
crocheting sc through front loop, middle finger, sc through the remaining
loop, 3 sc to the little finger (30)

Rnd 10: (3 sc, dec)*2, sc, continue

crocheting through back loops: dec,

11
 Make the wireframe for the arm: cut a
piece of wire D=1.5 mm (8 pieces) 25
Backside cm/9.8 inches long.

Front side of the chain

Continue crocheting to the thumb: 6 sc,

sc, (3 sc, dec)*2, sc (26)

Bend about 1.5 cm/0.5 inches of the end

of each wire, as shown in the photo:

Rnd 11: (2 sc, dec)*2, sc, through front

loops: sc, to the thumb: dec, 2 sc, dec,
through the remaining loops: sc, to the
arm: sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc (21)
Insert the wireframe.

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Secure the bend of the wireframe with Insert the wireframes into each finger
adhesive tape: and curl them together, as shown in the
photo:

Make sure that the wireframe does not

move and well-fixed inside the finger as
you curl it.

13
Rnd 12: (sc, dec)*7 (14) The left arm:
Rnd 13: (sc, dec, 2 sc, dec)*2 (10) Crochet all fingers similarly.
Rnds 14-26: 10 sc We will attach the thumb on the other
In the next round, crochet the elbow. Do side of the palm in the mirrored position.
not stuff the arm with fiberfill.
Rnd 27: inc, 2 sc, 4 sl st, 2 sc, inc (12) Rnd 9: chain 2, 6 sc to the thumb, 2 sc to
the chain, 3 sc to the index finger,
Slip stitches (sl st) must be on the inner through front loops only: sc, 3 sc to the
side of the palm. Crochet shift stitches if middle finger, through front loops only:
needed. sc, 6 sc to the little finger, sc through the
remaining loops, 3 sc to the middle
Rnd 28: sc, inc, 2 sc, 4 sl st, 2 sc, inc, sc finger, sc through the remaining loops, 3
(14) sc to the index finger (30)
Rnd 29: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, 4 sl st, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc
(16)
Rnd 30: 6 sc, 4 sl st, 6 sc (16)
Rnd 31: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, 4 sl st, 2 sc, dec, 2
sc (14)
Rnd 32: sc, dec, 2 sc, 4 sl st, 2 sc, dec, sc
(12)
Rnds 33-43: 12 sc
Stuff the elbow and forearm.

Rnd 10: back loops only: dec,

14
 crocheting to the arm: (2 sc, dec)*4, 3 sc
(21)
Backside Insert the wireframe.
Rnd 12: (sc, dec)*7 (14)
Rnd 13: (sc, dec, 2 sc, dec)*2 (10)
Rnds 14-26: 10 sc
Rnd 27: sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 4 sl st, sc (12)
Front side of the chain
Rnd 28: sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, 4 sl st, sc
(14)
Rnd 29: sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, 4 sl st, sc
(16)
Rnd 30: 11 sc, 4 sl st, sc (16)
Rnd 31: sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, 4 sl st, sc
(14)
Rnd 32: sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, 4 sl st, sc
Continue crocheting 6 sc to the thumb, (12)
Rnds 33-43: 12 sc
Stuff the elbow and forearm.

Sew the tips of the fingers with the yarn

tails, as shown the photo:

sc, (3 sc, dec)*4, 2 sc (26)

Rnd 11: through front loops only: sc, to
the thumb: dec, 2 sc, dec, through the
remaining loops: sc, and continue The arms are ready:

15
Legs (make 2): Do not cut yarn of the last (little) finger.
Stuff the tips of the fingers with fiberfill
Start crocheting the legs from the fingers.
(so that they look round and secure the
wireframe inside).
Fingers (make 6).
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Index, middle and little fingers.
Rnd 1: leave the tail of green Gazzal yarn
Join the fingers:
15 cm/5.9 inches long and start
Rnd 6: 3 sc to the little finger, chain 3, 3
crocheting with a 1.5 mm crochet hook.
sc to the middle finger, chain 3, 6 sc to the
Chain 2 and start crocheting in the
index finger, 3 sc to the chain, 3 sc to the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
middle finger, 3 sc to the chain, 3 sc to the
Continue crocheting in a circle.
little finger (30)
Rnd 2: (sc, inc)*3 (9)
Rnd 3: 9 sc
Place a stitch marker and continue
Rnd 4: (sc, dec)*3 (6)
crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 5: 6 sc

16
 and continue crocheting through back
Rnd 7: 3 sc, continue crocheting through loops again: dec, sc, 6 sc to the index
back loops (where we crocheted with sc finger, 2 sc to the backside, 3 sc to the
to the chain in the previous round) dec, middle finger, 2 sc to the backside, 3 sc to
sc, the little finger (26)

Backside

Front side of the chain

3 sc to the middle finger Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec)*2, 6 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*2

(22)

17
Rnd 9: (3 sc, through front loops: sc)*2, 6 Insert the wireframe.
sc, (through the remaining loops: sc, 3 Make the wireframe for the legs: cut a
sc)*2 (22) piece of the wire D=1.5 mm (6 pieces) 35
cm/13.7 inches long.

Rnd 10: (5 sc, dec)*3, sc (19) Bend the tip of the wire 1.5 cm/0.5 inches
Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec)*3, sc (16) long, as shown in the photo:
Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec)*3, sc (13)
Rnds 13-16: 13 sc

18
Wrap around the bend with adhesive
tape:

Make sure that the wireframe does not

move and well-fixed inside the finger as
you curl it.

Rnd 17: 2 sc, chain 4 (skip 4 stitches on

the base), 7 sc (13)

Chain behind the wireframe, as shown in

the photo:

Insert the wireframes into each finger, as

shown in the photo:

19
In this way, the wireframe comes out
through the hole.
Note: shift the chain if needed.

Rnd 18: 13 sc
Rnd 19: 6 dec, sc (7)
Break yarn and sew the heel with a
tapestry needle.

Leg:
Attach green yarn to the side as shown in
the photo. Crochet around the wireframe
in a circle:

Stuff the top of the foot and heel with

some fiberfill carefully. Sew the tips of
the fingers with the yarn tail, as shown in
the photo:

Rnd 1: crochet 10 sc in a circle randomly.

Rnds 2-4: 10 sc
Rnd 5: 6 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (12)
Rnd 6: 12 sc
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Rnd 7: 7 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (14) Fold the first leg in half. Place a stitch
Rnds 8-13: 14 sc marker on the folded point, as shown in
Rnd 14: 7 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec (12) the photo. We will attach the leg at this
Rnd 15: 12 sc point.
Rnd 16: 2 sc, through front loops: 4 inc,
crochet through both loops: 6 sc (16)
Rnds 17-19: 16 sc
Rnd 20: dec, sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2
sc (12)
Rnd 21: 5 sc, dec, 5 sc (11)
Rnd 22: 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (13)
Rnd 23: inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc (15)
Rnd 24: 15 sc
Rnd 25: 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 2 sc (17)
Rnd 26:17 sc
Rnd 27: 2 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 6 sc (19)
Rnd 28: 19 sc
Rnd 29: 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 2 sc (21)

Stuff the leg with fiberfill firmly. Pay

attention to the knee. Make it convex.
Crochet the second (left) leg similarly. Do Body:
not cut the yarn of the second leg.
Continue crocheting to the left leg.
Rnd 30: 19 sc
Rnd 31: chain 5, attach the right leg with
sc

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 Continue crocheting the belly.
And crochet 19 sc (to the right leg), dec, 3 Rnd 35: through front loops only: sl st, 4
sc to the chain, dec, 20 sc (to the left leg) sc, 8 HDC, 4 sc, sl st, turn
(50) Rnd 36: sl st, 3 sc, 8 HDC inc, 3 sc, sl st, sl
st to the base, turn
Place a stitch marker. Rnd 37: skip 1 stitch on the base, sl st, 3
Rnd 32: 17 sc, 6 inc, 9 sc, 6 inc, 12 sc (62) sc, 16 HDC, 3 sc, sl st, continue crocheting
Rnd 33: (9 sc, inc)*6, 2 sc (68) on the base: sl st, 62 sc (87)
Rnd 34: 10 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*6, 9 sc, (inc,
sc)*6, inc, 8 sc (67)
In round 34, increases are on the
backside. This is a thigh. Place a new
stitch marker.

22
Top view:

20 sc (60)
Continue crocheting in a circle. The backside view:
Rnd 38: 24 sc to the belly + 63 sc to the
body (87)
Rnds 39-41: 87 sc
Rnd 42: (5 sc, dec)*4, 4 sc, (sc, dec)*6, 9
sc, (dec, sc)*6, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc (70)
Rnd 43: 70 sc
Rnd 44: 40 sc, skip 10 stitches on the
base,

Sew the hole of the skipped stitches with

the thread:

23
Rnds 45-47: 60 sc Stuff the body with fiberfill firmly.
Rnd 48: 5 sc, (dec, 2 sc)*4, 39 sc (56)
Rnds 49-50: 56 sc
Rnd 51: 9 sc, dec, sc, dec, 42 sc (54)
Rnds 52-53: 54 sc
Rnd 54: 22 sc, dec, 27 sc, dec, sc (52)
Rnds 55-56: 52 sc
Rnd 57: 23 sc, dec, 25 sc, dec (50)
Rnds 58-59: 50 sc
Rnd 60: 30 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 8 sc (48)
Rnds 61-62: 48 sc
Rnd 63: dec, 22 sc, dec, 22 sc (46)

Bend the wireframes of the legs and curl

them together.

In the next round, crochet the arms into

the body. Attach the left arm to the body
parallel to the leg.

24
Crochet through both loops of the inner Rnd 65: 8 sc to the outer side of the left
side of the left arm and body together: arm, 19 sc, 8 sc to the outer side of the
right arm, 19 sc (54)

19 sc

8 sc 8 sc

19 sc

Rnd 64: 4 sc with the left arm together

19 sc to the body, 4 sc with the right arm
together, and 19 sc to the body (46) Tip: Crochet one decrease when
attaching the arm to the body (to avoid
the hole). Decrease through the stitch of
the previous round of the body and the
next stitch of the arm:
25
Rnds 66-67: 54 sc
Rnd 68: (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
Bend the wireframes of the arms and curl
Rnd 69: (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
them together:
Rnd 70: 42 sc
Rnd 71: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 72: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 73: 30 sc
Rnd 74: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 75: 24 sc
Rnd 76: through front loops: (sc, inc)*12
(36)
Rnd 77: (2 sc, inc)*12 (48)
Rnd 78: (3 sc, inc)*12 (60)
Rnd 79: (12 sc, 6 inc)*2, 24 sc (72)
In round 79, increases are on the front
side – cheeks.
Rnd 80: 2 sc, inc, 9 sc, (sc, inc)*6, 12 sc,
(sc, inc)*6, (4 sc, inc)*4, 4 sc (89)
Rnds 81-82: 89 sc
Rnd 83 25 sc, through front loops: 24 sc,
Wrap around the curled wireframes of through both loops: 40 sc (89)
the legs and arms with adhesive tape. Rnd 84: 25 sc, through the remaining
loops of round 82: 24 sc,

26
40 sc (89) Secure the ends of the wireframe with
Rnds 85-86: 89 sc adhesive tape:
Rnd 87: 2 sc, dec, 9 sc, (sc, dec)*6, 12 sc,
(sc, dec)*6, (4 sc, dec)*4, 4 sc (72)
Rnd 88: (12 sc, 6 dec)*2, 24 sc (60)
Rnds 89-96: 60 sc
Rnd 97: (8 sc, dec)*6 (54)
Rnd 98: 54 sc
Rnd 99: (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
Rnd 100: (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 101: 42 sc
Rnd 102: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 103: 36 sc

Cut the excess wire with the cutters:

Stuff the shoulders and head firmly:

27
Rnd 104: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30) Muzzle design:
Rnd 105: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) The muzzle design is the most important
Rnd 106: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18) part of the pattern. The more neatly to do
Rnd 107: (sc, dec)*6 (12) it, the more beautiful muzzle you will get.
Complete stuffing the head. Break yarn Let’s start.
and sew the hole.
First, sculpt the muzzle.
Thread the needle with green thread and
insert it in the center of the neck (at the
level of rounds 76-77). Shape the cheek
with your fingers and draw the needle
out on the right side of the eye:

The body is almost ready:

28
Grab one stitch: Tighten the thread along the right eye
and bottom of the neck gently, as shown
in the photo:

Draw the needle out at the bottom of the

neck:
Once you draw the needle out on the
bottom for the 7th time – grab one stitch
and pull the needle to the left eye:

29
Shape the left eye with your fingers and Cut thread and hide the tail inside the
sculpt it similarly to the right eye. Shape head.
the nose bridge. Distribute fiberfill inside the head using a
thin crochet hook, moving it to the
cheeks. They must look plump:

Muzzle after sculpting:

Once you tightened along the left eye.

Repeat three times. Tighten the nose
bridge and sculpt it with your fingers.

30
Eyes (make 2):
(white Bobbin Velour yarn, 1.5 mm
crochet hook)
Rnd 1: chain 2 and start crocheting in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnds 4-5: 18 sc
Break yarn.

Right side view:

Attach green yarn to the wrong side of

the eye and crochet through the loops of
round 5: (2 DC, DC inc)*4, sl st
Break yarn, leaving the yarn tail 20
cm/7.8 inches long for sewing.

Pupils (make 2):

(black Iris yarn and 1 mm crochet hook)
chain 2 and start crocheting in the second
chain from hook 6 sc
Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

31
Sew the pupils to the whites. Place them
at the beginning of the eyelid: Sew the eye with a green yarn tail neatly.
Make one stitch above the eyelid, as
shown in the photo:

Pin the eyes to the eye sockets:

Stuff the eye with fiberfill gently.

32
Sew the white neatly: Side view:

Sew the second eye similarly: Embroider the nostrils, making three
stitches with green thread at the level of
rounds 88-89.

33
Warts:
(dark green Iris yarn and 1 mm crochet Chart key:
hook)

Small wart (make 22):

Chain 2 and start crocheting in the
second chain from hook 6 sc CHAIN
Leave a long tail for sewing. DOUBLE CROCHET

Big wart (make 7): SINGLE CROCHET

Rnd 1: chain 2 and start crocheting in the
second chain from hook 6 sc
Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
Leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Heart (make 1):

Crochet the heart as follows in the chart: Chain 3 and start crocheting in the 3rd
chain from hook: 3 DC, 3 SC, chain 1, DС,
chain 1, 3 sc, 3 DC, chain 2, sl st.

Tighten. Break yarn, leaving a tail 20

cm/7.8 inches long for sewing.

34
Sew warts on the body randomly: Side view:

Sew the heart on the bottom of the Top view and bottom view:
backside:

35
 2 row: 3 CH, 2 DC, (CH, 3 DC into arch, CH,
3 DC into the second DC on the base)*3,
CH, 3 DC into the arch (33)

Panama:
(Alize Angora Cold Simli of milk and beige
colors, 1,75 mm crochet hook)

1 row: use milk thread and chain 3, work

into the third stitch from hook: 2 DC, CH,
(3 DC, CH)*3 (15)

3 row: 3 CH, 2 DC, (3 CH, 3 DC into arch)*7

(47)

36
 8 row: (3 CH, 8 DC into arch)*8 (88)
Start DC increases from the next row: 9 row: 88 sc

Start using beige yarn and work with two

yarns together. Work Front and Back post
double crochet ribbing. You can read how
to make this stitch at the beginning of the
pattern.

10 row: (DC, skip 1 stitch on the base)*44

4 row: 3 CH, 3 DC, (3 CH, 4 DC into arch)*7

(55)
5 row: (3 CH, 5 DC into arch)*8 (64)
6 row: (3 CH, 6 DC into arch)*8 (72)
7 row: (3 CH, 7 DC into arch)*8 (80)

11-12 row: (FPDC, BPDC)*22

Put the bonnet on the head. Make 1 row

if needed or skip the 8th row.

37
 Start working the brim of the bonnet.
Work as follow the chart below:

Start working only with milk yarn. Do not

15 row: (3 CH, skip 3 stitches on the base,
cut off the beige yarn, we will need it
DC, 4 CH
later.

13 row: through front loops only: inc*44

(88)
14 row: inc*88 (176)

Sl st into the 3rd stitch from hook (we

made a picot),

38
 2 CH, (DC into arch, 4 CH, sl st into the 3rd
stitch from hook, CH, DC into the same
arch, CH)*44

CH, DC into the same stitch on the base,

CH)*44

Cut off milk yarn, secure and hide.

Use beige yarn.

13 row: inc*44 (88)
16-17 rows as follow the chart below:

39
14 row: inc*88 (176) Sl st into the 3rd stitch from hook (we
made a picot),

15 row: (3 CH, skip 3 stitches on the base, CH, DC into the same stitch on the base,
DC, 4 CH, CH)*44

40
 (with milk Pekhorka sheep wool yarn,
white Alize superlana klassik yarn, and a
2.5 mm crochet hook)

Sole:
Rnd 1: chain 11 with milk Pekhorka sheep
wool yarn and start working in the 2nd
chain from hook: inc, 8 sc, 4 sc in the last
chain foundation and continue
crocheting on the other side of the chain:
9 sc (23)

Continue crocheting in a circle.

Rnd 2: 2 inc, 7 sc, 6 inc, 7 sc, inc (32)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*2, 5 sc, 2 hdc, (dc, dc
inc)*6, 2 hdc, 5 dc, inc, sc, sl st, ch (41)
16-17 rows: 2 CH, (DC into arch, 4 CH, sl
st into the 3rd stitch from hook, CH, DC Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.
into the same arch, CH)*44 Crochet the second sole similarly, and do
not break yarn:
Our panama is ready:

Slippers:

41
Put two soles with the wrong side inward
and join them together in sl st:

The upper part of the slipper:

Join yarn on the other side of the chain
and crochet, as follows:
Rnd 1: chain 9 with white yarn. Start
working in the 2nd chain from hook:
Rnd 1: inc*8, chain, turn (16)
Rnd 1: inc*8, chain, turn (16)
Rnd 2: (DC, inc DC)*8.
Rnd 2: (DC, inc DC)*8.
Break yarn, leaving 30 cm tail for sewing.
Break yarn, leaving 30 cm tail for sewing.

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Sew the upper part of the shoe to the
sides of the sole:
Daisy:
(Alize superlana klassik in white color,
Alize Cotton Gold in green color,
Pekhorka Kid’s Novelty in yellow color,
2.5 mm crochet hook, wire D=2 mm)

Petals (make 8):

Rnd 1: chain 2 with white color yarn and
start working in the 2nd chain from hook
6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4: 18 sc
Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
Rnds 6-7: 24 sc
Rnd 8: (6 sc, dec)*3 (21)
Rnd 9: 21 sc
Crochet the second slipper similarly: Rnd 10: (5 sc, dec)*3 (18)
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Rnd 11: 18 sc Rnd 9: 48 sc
Rnd 12: (4 sc, dec)*3 (15)
Rnds 13-14: 15 sc
Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec)*3 (12)
Rnd 16: 12 sc
Rnd 17: flatten the petal and crochet 6
sc through both loops.
Break yarn and secure.

Rnd 10: in this round, join the petals

together and crochet through both loops
(the petal + disk, as shown in the photo)
48 sc

Disk:

Rnd 1: chain 2 with yellow color yarn

and start working in the 2nd chain from
hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
The petals are joined to the disk:
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
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 Cut a piece of the wire 16.5 ″ long and
make the shape of the oval. Secure the
sharp ends of the wireframe with
adhesive tape.

Change to green color yarn. Break yellow

yarn and secure.
Rnd 11: 48 sc
Rnd 12: (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
Rnd 13: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 14: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30) Insert the wireframe into the flower:
Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Continue crocheting, as follows:

Rnd 16: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 17: (sc, dec)*6 (12)
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Stuff the disk with fiberfill gently. Bend the end of the wireframe and
Rnd 18: dec*6 (6) secure it with adhesive tape.

Continue crocheting the stem of the Complete crocheting to the end of the
daisy. wireframe, decreasing or increasing the
number of rows. Sew the end of the stem
Rnds 19-89: 6 sc. using a tapestry needle:
Crochet around the wireframe.

Our daisy is finished:

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View from above:

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Congratulation, our frog is finished… ☺
Thank you for crocheting with me…

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