Building the West Greenland Kayak

VERSION 2.0

LENGTH WIDTH WEIGHT

SPECS
STANDARD SIZE
16'-8" 20 3/8" 29 lbs

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Based on the CMC-IV-375 hunting kayak stored at the Canadian Museum of History,
this early 20th century West Greenland hunting kayak is the most versatile of any true

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traditional Greenland kayak I’ve paddled.

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The moderate length makes it a playful, controllable kayak that is noticeably quicker than longer
boats due to the reduced wetted surface. It sits low enough in the water to tackle advanced
Greenland rolls, but still high enough to be useful as a day-trip sea kayak. Additionally, the deeper-
than-normal foot area combined with my own framing adjustments make this a kayak that is
significantly more comfortable than the original, while still remaining true to the dimensions and
lines of the collected examples from its time period and region.

We offer the West Greenland kayak in scaled sized to fit paddlers from child size to 250lbs. In addi-
tion to direct scaling, the kayak can also be modified in a variety of ways for different sized users
with different needs. We have a growing library of scaled sizes available for download, but are also
happy to make a custom plan set to fit your needs; email for personalized sizing recommendations.

Complete drawings, photos, details, and historical information can be found in

Kayaks of Greenland by Harvey Golden, available for purchase at traditionalkayaks.com

LICENSING AGREEMENT: These plans are designed to be used in conjunction with our Skin-on-Frame Kayak Building video
courses. There are important details in the video that you need to accurately reproduce the kayak, and to comply with our
license you must purchase the video course. Purchase of a plan set allows you to build one kayak for yourself, and another
as a gift for a friend who is not building a kayak. Two builders must buy two video courses and two plan sets. Children under
age 18 may build for free in an at-home setting. Commercial use is allowed with written permission and a plan set purchase
for each boat built. Violating the licensing agreement is bad karma!

VERSION 2.0 2023-01a. Copyright © 2023 Brian Schulz, Cape Falcon Kayak capefalconkayaks.com
For personal use only. For commercial licensing, contact brian@capefalconkayaks.com
 Getting Started

STARTING THE BUILD CONTENTS

These plans accompany our online Tips for a Successful Kayak Build 3
Skin-on-Frame Kayak Prep and Parts of the Kayak Frame 4
Skin-on-Frame Kayak Building video
Sizing and Scaling 5
courses. Together they will give you
everything you need to know to Conversion Table 6
complete the kayak. Setting Up Your Workspace 7

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The build should take between 50 Tools 8
and 75 hours, depending on your Materials 10

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experience level and whether or not
Wood 11
you are starting with a Cape Falcon
kit or from scratch. Effect of Wood Species on Kayak Weight 13

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Cut List 14
Kayak Skin Choices 15
Kayak Coating and Coloring Choices 16

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Support for your build: Forms and Jigs 17
Feel free to contact us at any time Gunwale Layout 20
for help or advice but please review

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ALL relevant videos and plan pages Mortises 21
before reaching out.
Sample Deck Layout 22

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I usually respond fastest via text Cutting and Aligning the Stems 23
(unless I am away from cell service)
and email is also fine: Understanding the Rib Measuring System 24
503-354-4939 Measuring Sticks 25
brian@capefalconkayaks.com Shaping the Ribs 26
Keel and Stringer Heights 27
The Legal Stuff Masik Details 28
Both woodworking and kayaking are inherently Coating the Kayak 29
dangerous. It is your responsibility to obtain
the appropriate training for any tool used in the 13 Common Coating Mistakes 30
building process, and the paddling skills necessary
to operate your kayak safely. Deck Lines, Toggles and Rub Strips 31

By purchasing this plan set and/or video course, Outfitting 32

you agree to indemnify, defend and hold harmless
Cape Falcon Kayak, its officers, agents and employees Survey Drawing 33
for, from and against any and all claims, liability
damages, losses and expenses, including reasonable Video Index 34
attorney fees, for any claim, cause of action, demand,
personal injury or death or damage to any propery
or person arising out of or in any way connected with
the products purchased.

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

VERSION 2.0 2023-01a. Copyright © 2023 Brian Schulz, Cape Falcon Kayak
For personal use only. For commercial licensing, contact brian@capefalconkayaks.com Page 2 of 36
 Tips for a Successful Kayak Build

GETTING ORIENTED TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL KAYAK BUILD

This plan set is designed to be used in tandem 1. Spend the money for good bending stock
with our online video courses. To successfully Most of the kayak builds that I see go poorly are because
build one of our kayaks you will need to enroll in someone was trying to bend poor quality wood for the ribs
both the Free Kayak Prep Video Course and the because they didn't want to spend the money on quality
Kayak Building Video Course. bending stock. This results in a LOT of frustration and
sometimes tippy kayaks because they weren’t able to get the
The Prep Course and the early plan pages will

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bottom flat enough. Watch the videos and read the materials
help you decide on materials, color choices, and in the course for details on what makes good bending stock.
variations on your kayak, and guide you through
2. Don't be afraid to ask for help or sizing advice

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the prep process. The Kayak Building Course and
later plan pages will guide you through the build- Your access to this course includes a sizing consultation with
ing process. The Appendix at the end of this plan me and ongoing support during the build. When reaching out

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set includes a list of all the videos in both courses for an initial sizing recommendation, tell me how tall you are,
for quick reference. how much you weigh, you level of kayaking experience and
how you see yourself using the kayak.
You can find many kayak building supplies in
3. Watch and follow the instructions.
our store and guidance in the plans for where to

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The videos are long, I get it. But everything I say relates to
purchase materials that we don’t sell.
a mistake I have seen someone make in the past. The point
of this whole course is to help you skip all the common skin-

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GETTING SUPPORT on-frame building mistakes, but I can’t help you do that if
you don’t watch the videos, follow the instructions, or reach
If you need help at any time feel free to contact
out for help when you need it.

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Brian via email or phone. Text is a fast way to
get questions answered. 4. Believe me when I say things.
Phone / WhatsApp: 503 354 4939 For example, I say to clamp the stringers and keel onto their
Email: brian@capefalconkayaks.com ribs right after bending and lash ASAP to lock in the shape.
I've seen multiple people decide they didn't need to do this,
The Cape Falcon Kayak Facebook group is wait a week or more, then add the stringers. The result?
a great place to connect with other builders, An uneven shape and a tippy kayak that is too round on the
and is often a good place to go for advice: bottom. If I’m emphasizing a step, there’s a reason!
facebook.com/groups/capefalconbuilds
5. Take the time to set up a decent work space and
The Student Builds blog on our website is a gather all your materials before you start building.
fantastic resource, especially for our builders out- Not only does this make a nicer building experience, it also
side the United States. Builders receive a notifica- minimizes errors and makes the build go a lot faster.
tion if you comment on their posts, and are often
happy to answer questions:
Alright, that’s it for now. Good luck. Watch the videos.
builds.capefalconkayaks.com
Read the plans. Text or email if you need help.
Finally, the @capefalconbuilds Instagram page
is a great place to go for inspiration, information, —Brian
and a ton of really cool short videos: brian@capefalconkayaks.com
instagram.com/capefalconbuilds text / call / WhatsApp: 503 354 4939

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

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 aft deck stringer cockpit coaming
curved deck beam
stern end plate gunwale
bow stem

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stern stem
bow end plate

flat deck beam rib masik forward deck stringer

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keel

curved deck beam

gunwale cockpit coaming forward deck stringer

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bow stem
stringer rib keel masik
stern stem

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masik

gunwale
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stringer
Frame dimensions have been altered rib
to better illustrate parts of kayak.
DO NOT SCALE off this drawing. keel
AFT FO RWA RD
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Parts of the Kayak Frame NOT TO SCALE

VERSION 2.0 2023-01a. Copyright © 2023 Brian Schulz, Cape Falcon Kayak
BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK For personal use only. For commercial licensing, contact brian@capefalconkayaks.com Page 4 of 36
 Sizing and Scaling

The kayak in this plan set is based off the late 19th and early 20th century rifle hunting kayaks from West Greenland.
These kayaks were much more comfortable and stable than those from other times and other regions, but they are
still less stable and fit more tightly than most modern sea kayaks. Our Standard size gives a good balance of paddling
and rolling performance for a paddler of approximately 160lbs, but the kayak can also be scaled and modified in a
variety of ways for different sized users with different needs. We have a growing library of scaled sizes available for
download but are also happy to make a custom plan set to fit your needs at no additional cost!
Example Ideal
Currently we are adding or subtracting approximately 1%
Scale Sizes Length Width paddler size

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of scale for every ten pounds heavier or lighter a paddler is
from our “standard” size. Experience tells us this should be +4% 17'-6" 21.2" 200 lbs
close to accurate sizing, however, it will likely evolve as we
+2% 17'-2" 20.8" 180 lbs

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put more paddlers on the water. Our most accurate sizing
recommendations will always be listed in the text document Standard 16'-8" 20.4" 160 lbs
at the top of the plan download menu, and also in the titles

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–2% 16'-4" 20" 140 lbs
of the individual plan download links.
–4% 16'-0" 19.6" 120 lbs
Paddlers with inseam measurements longer than 33" must use
a stretched or fully scaled-up size to ensure appropriate foot room. Do not scale directly off of the standard size plan.
For inseams longer than 35 inches, email for custom sizing.

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That doesn't work.

Proportional scaling to change performance Disproportional scaling to change performance

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In addition to the “proper” sizing, we can also scale the plan We can also scale the cross section separately from the
to accentuate certain performance features at the expense length. For example, if I scale the length only by 5%, it

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of others. In general, scaling down will increase rolling gives me similar volume and handling to scaling propor-
performance and scaling up will increase paddling perfor- tionately by 2%. The kayak is more stable and faster but
mance. Using myself as an example at 165 pounds, if I scale maintains the correct Greenland fit, and rolling perfor-
down 2% it’s a little easier to hit the harder Greenland rolls, mance is still good until you get to the harder rolls. The
but the kayak is a bit harder to turn and feels sloppy in kayak is heavier though.
rough water. Scaling down 5%, the kayak becomes a superb
To get even more exotic, for people in the middle of
rolling kayak, but not very stable and not great to paddle.
the size range you have the opportunity to scale up the
Scaling up 2% increases stability and volume, making the length, but scale down the cross section, resulting in
boat handle better in rough water, but it’s no longer quite a kayak with roughly the same volume as our standard
as easy to balance brace or do advanced Greenland rolls. size but longer and narrower, making it faster, less stable,
If I scale up 5%, it has very similar stability to a modern and tighter fitting. Scaling the length up by 5% and cross
sea kayak, but the fit is poor and rolling performance is section down 5% results in a kayak 17'-6" x 19.4" wide,
mediocre at best. For these reasons, we discourage build- which was a very common size for historic kayaks of this
ing significantly oversized Greenland kayaks. type. It’s basically a different “flavor” of our standard size.

Low profile gunwales

Reducing the gunwale height by 1/4 inch reduces the weight of the kayak by about a pound and makes it a slightly better
roller, but also makes the kayak slightly less stable, a little less seaworthy, and a little bit tighter fitting. Honestly, it’s not
a huge difference in performance, but it can be a big difference in fit for people who already have a hard time fitting into
traditional Greenland kayaks. Generally, I discourage this modification for people with longer legs or bigger feet.

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

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For personal use only. For commercial licensing, contact brian@capefalconkayaks.com Page 5 of 36
 Conversion Table

CONVERTING TO METRIC fraction decimal mm fraction decimal mm

We have chosen not to offer 1/64 0.0156 0.3969 33/64 0.5156 13.0969
metric plans because we use 1/32 0.0313 0.7938 17/32 0.5313 13.4938
imperial measurements in the 3/64 0.0469 1.1906 35/64 0.5469 13.8906
accompanying video courses.
1/16 0.0625 1.5875 9/16 0.5625 14.2875
However, it is relatively easy to
convert a plan set to metric and 5/64 0.0781 1.9844 37/64 0.5781 14.6844

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we have included a fraction, 3/32 0.0938 2.3813 19/32 0.5938 15.0813
decimal, and metric conversion
7/64 0.1094 2.7781 39/64 0.6094 15.4781
table for this use.

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1/8 0.1250 3.1750 5/8 0.6250 15.8750

9/64 0.1406 3.5719 41/64 0.6406 16.2719

Many of our metric builders have

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told us it was helpful to purchase 5/32 0.1563 3.9688 21/32 0.6563 16.6688
a tape measure with both imperial 11/64 0.1719 4.3656 43/64 0.6719 17.0656
and metric measurements.
3/16 0.1875 4.7625 11/16 0.6875 17.4625

13/64 0.2031 5.1594 45/64 0.7031 17.8594

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7/32 0.2188 5.5563 23/32 0.7188 18.2563

15/64 0.2344 5.9531 47/64 0.7344 18.6531

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1/4 0.2500 6.3500 3/4 0.7500 19.0500

17/64 0.2656 6.7469 49/64 0.7656 19.4469

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9/32 0.2813 7.1438 25/32 0.7813 19.8438

19/64 0.2969 7.5406 51/64 0.7969 20.2406

5/16 0.3125 7.9375 13/16 0.8125 20.6375

READ THIS, IMPORTANT!
21/64 0.3281 8.3344 53/64 0.8281 21.0344
To minimize the possibility of 11/32 0.3438 8.7313 27/32 0.8438 21.4313
errors for people who will be con-
23/64 0.3594 9.1281 55/64 0.8594 21.8281
verting to metric, for the scaled
sizes only we chose to express 3/8 0.3750 9.5250 7/8 0.8750 22.2250
the gunwale layout and form 25/64 0.3906 9.9219 57/64 0.8906 22.6219
sizes in inches and decimals (as
13/32 0.4063 10.3188 29/32 0.9063 23.0188
opposed to inches and fractions).
Imperial builders can easily con- 27/64 0.4219 10.7156 59/64 0.9219 23.4156
vert these decimals to the nearest 7/16 0.4375 11.1125 15/16 0.9375 23.8125
fraction using the table on this
29/64 0.4531 11.5094 61/64 0.9531 24.2094
page, and metric builders can also
use this table to convert decimal 15/32 0.4688 11.9063 31/32 0.9688 24.6063
inches and fractions elsewhere in 31/64 0.4844 12.3031 63/64 0.9844 25.0031
the plans. 1/2 0.5000 12.7000 1 1.0000 25.4000

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

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 Setting Up Your Workspace

A clean, organized workspace is probably the most important ingredient to an easy build and a good finished product.
Good work benches, appropriate saw horses, and lots of light all make the building process much easier. You will need
a space that can be heated to a minimum of 60°F during the coating process at the end of the build. The Spirit Line
2-part polyurethane we recommend can be used near living spaces with moderate ventilation, but any other coating
requires a well-ventilated space and a respirator.

I personally like to start with two simple 2'x8' workbenches 35 inches tall. This gives me a 16 foot long table that works
great for mortising gunwales, rounding stringers, bending the coaming, and organizing everything I need during the

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build without having to constantly bend over and shuffle things on and off the table. If this is going to be your primary
shop bench, consider adding a lower shelf and locking casters. If you only have one 8 foot table or are using existing
workbenches, you’ll want to buy a straight 14' 2x8 to do the longer prep work on.

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For my sawhorses I find that 32 inches is a nice width. Anything narrower and I end up knocking the boat on the
floor all the time, wider than 3 feet tends to get in the way. Short people can get away with 32 inch tall horses, average

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people will do better with 35, tall people 37 inches.

SIMPLE WORKBENCH

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3" deck screws fasten top with
1 5/8" sheetrock screws

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3/4" plywood

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1" x 6"
35"

4" x 4"

96"

24"

1 1/2" overhang all sides

SAFETY REMINDER: The earlier you start in the process the more tools you’ll need to use. It’s your responsibility
to get proper training when working with any woodworking tool. Sometimes the most innocuous tools can cause
the most serious injuries — be careful with Japanese saws and chisels! Also, it’s always a good idea to wear ear,
eye, and respiratory protection.

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

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 Tools

To understand this tool kit better, please watch the Tools video in the free Skin-on-Frame Kayak Building Prep Course.
The prep work will be easiest with access to the common tools in any woodworking shop, but if necessary some substitutions
can be made. See the Prep Course for how we use these tools and feel free to substitute anything you need to as long as you
can still perform the tasks safely.

Large tools can often be borrowed, or time rented in a woodworking shop.

RECOMMENDED POWER TOOLS

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Tool Used For Substitution Substitution

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Disadvantages

Tablesaw with ripping wood Circular saw very difficult to rip wood

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thin kerf rip blade accurately and safely

Thickness planer thinning boards Handheld power planer harder to thin stem pieces
OR tablesaw and bending wood blanks

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Minimum 3/4 hp cutting stems, masik High quality jig saw rarely cuts square, cannot
bandsaw with 4T blade shape, and paddle blank cut thick masik shape

Plunge router with cutting rib and Power drill and slow and labor intensive

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1/4" & 3/8" spiral upcut bits deck beam mortises mortise chisel

3 1/4 inch handheld cutting rolling bevels Block plane slower, more work, can’t

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power planer on stringers, carving be used to thin wood
a Greenland paddle

Sliding compound miscellaneous Regular miter saw, works fine, just not as easy
miter saw crosscutting tasks circular saw, handsaw

High quality jig saw cutting angles on Band saw = difficult

sheer blocks, kerfing Circular saw = dangerous
gunwale tips at bow OR Hand saw = slow

12v drill and driver various uses Hand drill? have fun with that...

Wallpaper steamer steambending wood Hot plate and kettle = less safe, less steam
OR pressure cooker = harder to use

Hot knife fabric cutter cutting the nylon Soldering gun with cut tip = doesn’t work as well
(cheap is fine) kayak skin OR propane torch and knife = dangerous and scary

Household steam iron shrinking the skin No substitution

Propane torch heating a nail to melt Soldering iron with both options work fine
skin for deck line holes 5
/32" tip

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

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 Tools

RECOMMENDED HAND TOOLS DRILL BITS

Aggresive pull saw 7

/64 inch bit with countersink
(I recommend the Bear Saw 333C)
1 of each of the following:
Japanese saw 1
/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 9/32 inch twist drill bits
(I recommend the Gyokucho 770-3500)
Note: You may need slightly smaller drill bits
Low angle block plane if your dowels are undersized. For example,

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(I like the old Record or Stanley 601/2 planes, undecided I will sometimes step down 1/64 th if a dowel
on newer planes. Most block planes do not come with sharp feels loose in its hole. A drill index graduated
blades, so blade will need to be sharpened) in 64ths will cover most situations. A size C

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12 ea 2-inch metal spring clamps bit can also be useful for slightly undersized
2 ea 3-inch mini C clamps 1/4-inch dowels.

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2 ea medium size engagement clamps
(12- or 18-inch Irwin Mini Quick Grip works well) SAFETY EQUIPMENT:
1-inch chisel (will also need to be sharpened) safety glasses

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Slickplane brand radius plane ear protection
hammer respirator
pliers

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work gloves for steam bending
scissors (I prefer the thinner cotton ones with
anvil pruners (quick way to cut dowels) the rubberized grip)

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combination square
sliding bevel
Dial calipers aren’t absolutely necessary but
tape measure are very helpful for many small measuring
tailor’s tape tasks, such as matching dowel and drill bit
sizes and cutting ribs exactly to thickness
pencils
(very important!) Shop Fox sells a decent
pencil sharpener quality caliper for $40
couple of Sharpie markers Tip: Always check that your caliper is zeroed
2 ea cam straps, 9' or longer (a third is helpful) before measuring!

Chisels and plane will need to be sharpened.

I personally use a Norton 1000/4000 water
You will need 2 spray bottles filled with water if working with stone and a cheap honing guide.Watch the
a cloth that must be sewn wet. See page 15 for more info. sharpening video in the Prep Course for details.

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 Materials

MISC. STANDARD LUMBER AND PLYWOOD DISPOSABLES

a 4'x4' sheet of 1/2-inch medium-grade plywood is enough plastic mixing cups

to make all the forms and steam box ordinary plastic cups
a 2'x4' sheet of 3/4-inch plywood will make both the 2 ea 2-inch chip brushes
deck beam and coaming jig (1'x2' for deck beam jig only)
2 ea 4-inch foam brushes (if using acid dye)
a standard framing lumber 2x4x8 will make the
1 ea 4-inch roller frame and 4 foam rollers
rib rounding jig and misc. steam box parts

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(2 rollers come in Spirit Line polyurethane kit)
a small piece (8" x 8" is enough) piece of high quality
2 ea 4-inch roller trays, see video
1/4-inch plywood (birchply or better) for the backrest +

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1 quart Watco Danish Oil, Corey’s Pine Tar
Boat Sauce °, or your coating of choice
MISC. HARDWARE AND FASTENTERS
2 sheets 120 grit sandpaper

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50 ea 3/4-inch 14 gauge bronze * (or 2 penny stainless)
8 oz Gorilla Glue
ringshank nails for coaming (1-inch* for double-lip coamings)
small tube super glue +
40 ea 3/4" #4 stainless flathead phillips screws for rub strips
1 roll 3/4-inch blue tape

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16 ea 2-inch #8 coarse thread “drywall” screws
1 roll 11/2-inch blue tape
2 ea 3-inch #8 coarse thread “drywall” screws
10+ pairs disposable nitrile or vinyl gloves
small box 1- or 1 1/4-inch “drywall” screws for steam box

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1 ea 12 penny nail (5/32" diameter) for burning deck line holes,
OUTFITTING
can also use soldering iron with 5/32" tip

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5 feet of tie wire for threading end deck lines

LASHING, TYING AND SEWING small tube Aquaseal * +

4 ea 3/8-inch wide x 6-foot long oil-tanned latigo
1 ea 4oz roll of flat artificial sinew * + °
or english bridle leather straps +
(often used in leatherwork, taxidermy and tie dye,
check leather or craft supply shops) HDPE rub strips and toggles +
30 yards of #9 tarred seine twine * + OR HDPE or Delrin to make rub strips and
toggles, see p. 31
1 spool heavy-duty nylon upholstery thread +
Thermarest Ridgerest Classic pad R (seat pad)
2 “repair needle” packs with curved and straight needles + °
flotation, see p. 32
SKINNING & COATING
See p. 15–16 for details on skin, coating, and coloring options
ballistic nylon fabric ° order 1 foot longer than length of boat
1.5–2 orders Spirit Line 2-part polyurethane system °(see p.16)
available at:
Jacquard acid dye * + or rare earth pigments °
* capefalconkayaks.com
25+ push pins + in Cape Falcon kayak building kit

° skinboats.org

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 gun
strin

Wood
gunwaleskee
stringersseco
strin
keel
secondary
stringers
SOFTWOOD foredeck stringer
gunwales
Normally thebow
gunwales, stringers,
stern keel, and stems are made from knot-free, straight-grained
foredeck stringer softwood, although
stringers
f1 stem stem
keel
people have used lightweight hardwoods such as poplar and butternut successfully. The following diagrams show
bow stern secondary
f1 examples
stem of how muchstemwood you will need and how you can cut the pieces needed from common board sizes.
stringers
bow stern
f1fd stem stem
Keep in mind, these are only examples and many other board sizes can make the pieces in the cut list on page 14.
bow stern
f1fd stem bow
We recommend takingstem
the cut list with you to the lumber store and selecting for the best quality wood versus specific
stern
lpb stem stem foredeck stringer
board sizes.

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bow stern
1 lpb bow stem stern stem
stem stem

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bow
Nominal 1 x 10 x gunwale length, or equivalent (i.e., 2ea 1x6)
stern
1fd stem stem
gunwales

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bow stern stringers
pb stem stem gunwaleskeel
stringers
keel
Nominal
wg 1bow
x 6 stem
x8 stern stem misc.
uses

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wg bow stem
bow stem stern stem stern stem misc.
eg uses
gunwales
bow stem stern stem stringers

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eg
keel
If using western red cedar, you will also need a small piece of stronger softwood (i.e., spruce, pine, fir) for the deck
Greenland
paddle blank

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beam immediately aft of the cockpit.
wg bow stem stern stem misc.
usesGreenland 
8 feet in other configurations,paddle
Although this wood can be sourced blank4x4 split in half is an easy way to cut a
a nominal  flat
g bowGreenland
stem paddle blank and stern stem for the curved and straight deck
the pieces  beams: deck beams
8 feet  flat
deck beams
curved
3 1/2" Greenland deck beam
paddle blank
 curved laminations
3 1/2" deck beam
 

8 feet  laminations
 flat
3 1/2"
deck beams
3 1/2"
curved
3 1/2" deck beam
 laminations

3 1/2"

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 Wood

BENDING WOOD

Our favorite wood for making the ribs and the coaming is freshly sawn, clear, straight-grained white oak. This wood
is strong, rot resistant, and steam bends very easily. Ash, locust, and a variety of other species can be steam bent,
although not as easily. With a few exceptions, it is important that bending wood has not been kiln-dried, and is freshly
sawn with a high moisture content. It is best to wait until you are ready to bend before miling your wood to preserve
moisture content. Shorter lengths can be used if purchasing a ready-made coaming, but you will need a longer board
if steam bending your own coaming. See our most recent bending wood suppliers list in the Prep Course for sources

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of bending oak boards and precut ribs. We can supply precut ribs to international customers who purchase our kits
and ship them in the same box to save on shipping.

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clear
(few or minimal knots) if rough sawn,
make sure that
board is at least

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1/16" thicker than

finished rib width

or coaming height
straight grain

M
grain on the edge must
be straight, like this
not sloped, like this

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MISCELLANEOUS HARDWOOD
A
plan to get 2 ribs per inch, and order enough
wood to make 10 more ribs than you need
(i.e., 15 horizontal inches for 30 ribs)
vertical to diagonal grain
will yield flat to diagonal
grain ribs

You will need a small amount of ash or other hardwood with similar weight and strength characteristics for the aft
deck stringers, fore deck stringers, masik, and end plates. Lighter hardwoods like cherry can be used for the masik
and end plates, but deck stringers must be as strong as ash or stronger. Very light hardwoods like poplar cannot be
used for any of these pieces. See dimensions in the cut list on page 14 and purchase accordingly.

Note: wood-database.com is an excellent resource for comparing the weight and strength of different wood species

DOWELS

You will need several birch or other well made, rot-resistant, 4-foot long hardwood dowels:
2 ea 1/4-inch dowel, 1 ea 3/16-inch dowel, 1 ea 1/8-inch dowel

You will also need 1 ea 5/8-inch dowel for the steambox and suspended cloth seat and 1 ea 3/4-inch dowel
for the deck beam and coaming lamination jigs. Any type of wood is fine for these.
Note: Dowel sizes are often irregular. We recommend bringing a caliper to the store to check dowel sizes when purchasing.

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

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 Effect of Wood Species on Kayak Weight

The gunwales, stringers, keel, stems, and deck beams are generally made from long clear softwood, although some
lightweight hardwoods can work. In the following table we have calculated the total volume of softwood in our standard
size West Greenland kayak so you can compare the effect that choosing different wood species will have on your
finished kayak weight.

Note: Western red cedar is listed at a slightly higher volume is because we use thicker wood in some places to compensate
for its lack of strength. You will need to multiply by that number when considering wood of similar weight or strength.

As a benchmark: currently our standard size West Greenland kayak (sized for a 160lb paddler) and built with western

E
red cedar, white oak ribs, a double lipped coaming, and 840 Xtra Tuff skin with 3 coats of 2-part polyurethane weighs
around 29 pounds. Smaller or larger sizes and any modifications will affect this weight.

approx. total cu ft of softwood in Standard WG kayak

western red cedar or any wood

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23 25

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common wood weights in lbs/cu ft

28 32 35

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.719 cu ft 16.5 lbs
of equivalent weight or strength

stronger/ heavier softwoods .711 cu ft 17.8 lbs 19.9 lbs 22.8 lbs 24.9 lbs

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Note: 2 1/4" tall gunwales save about 1 lb

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Keep in mind there is a lot of variation within any wood Weights of various common wood species (lbs/cu ft)
species. Western red cedar is listed at 23 pounds per
cubic foot but I’ve seen it weigh as much as spruce.
23 Western red cedar 31 Yellow cedar
Eastern white pine is listed at 25 lbs/cu ft, but in my
25 Eastern white pine 32 Cypress
experience it’s usually more like 27. Southern yellow
pine is listed at 40 lbs/cu ft, but in my experience it’s 25 Norway spruce 32 Douglas fir
usually lighter than that. 27 Butternut 32 Radiata pine
27 Red spruce 34 Scotts pine
The wood-database.com is a great place to look up
weights of different woods, and we have left an empty 27 Sitka spruce 36 Larch
column so you can multiply the cubic volume by any 27 Western white pine 40 Longleaf pine
wood you choose to find the effect it will have on boat (Southern Yellow)
weight. Any wood as light OR as weak as western red
cedar must be multiplied by the WRC cubic volume.

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

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 Cut List: West Greenland Kayak

All wood is western red cedar unless otherwise noted, although any clear, straight-grained softwood can be used at the
expense of extra weight. Stems can be reduced to when using pine, spruce, or fir. Note that keel is always thick.

Gunwales (x2) * Stringers (x2) Foredeck

Stringers (x2) Aft Deck Stringers (x2)

made of ash made of ash or equivalent

or equivalent

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Deck Beams #1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8 & 9
(7 total)

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Foot Rest Deck Beam

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(x2 - one is a spare)

Bow Stem

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Stern Stem
Laminated Curved Deck Beam #4

made of western red cedar

A
(it’s always a good idea to cut
a few extra plys; finished deck beams
Endplates (x2) should be about thick)

S
made of ash
or other
Deck Beam #5
rot-resistant
Coaming hardwood
spruce, pine, fir or equivalent
be careful making
made of white oak these or buy 1/4" wood!

Coaming Lip Ribs

End wedges (x4) (x30, allows for 9 extra)
made of white oak

Note: for double-lip made of white oak

coaming, use 2 layers
Dowels
and fasten with Masik 2 e a c h 1/4 " x 4 8 "
1" bronze ring nails (x2 - one is a spare) 1 e a c h 3/16" x 4 8 "
1 e a c h 1/8" x 4 8 "
**see coaming plan for made of ash or equivalent made of birch or other
length based on inseam Keel can also be laminated, see page 26 strong hardwood

*Note: gunwales can be cut 2 1/4" tall for lower volume version,
but must be increased to thickness if using western red cedar

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 Kayak Skin Choices

Skin on frame kayaks can be covered with a variety of fabrics, but the fabric we use more than any other is nylon.
Nylon is impact and abrasion resistant and pairs well with the 2-part polyurethane we recommend. We prefer fabrics
from Skinboats.org because they have proven performance and can ship you coating, fabric and pigment in the same
box. Even for overseas customers, it is often less expensive to order nylon and urethane from them than it is to
buy local cloth and an expensive, locally available polyurethane. We recommend you price cloth AND coating before
making purchasing decisions. Skinboats.org rarely reply to emails, so if you are an international customer please call
them directly at 360 299 0804.

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With the exception of the 840 Xtra Tuff, all nylons should be sewn on wet, and must remain wet during the entire
stitching process. Typically I will mist the fabric every 10 minutes while skinning if not using 840 Xtra Tuff.

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UNITED STATES SUPPLIERS (WILL SHIP WORLDWIDE) INTERNATIONAL SOURCES:

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The Skinboat School (skinboats.org) UK: Ant Mace, shipshape.works

840 9oz Xtra Tuff nylon: Our preferred cloth, it has an excellent bal- Poland: Marcin Bober
ance between weight and durability and is the only cloth we recommend marcinbober@op.pl
that can be sewn on dry but still shrinks tightly.

M
Marcin and Ant both carry two nylon
700 7oz junior ballistic Primo: A good ultralight cloth with some cloths: an 8oz (N260) and a 12oz
significant disadvantages, this tightly-woven lightweight nylon is surpris- (N430) that get good reviews from

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ingly tough, giving similar durability to the 840 Xtra Tuff while weighing our builders. Marcin can ship to most
less and absorbing less coating. Unfortunately, it is extremely hard to countries in the EU.
get this fabric to stay tight and it will always get saggy in high humidity.

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If you use this cloth you must sew it on cold and soaking wet, stitch very Germany: Extremtextil.de
tight, and remember it cannot be dyed with fabric dye. It will not conform Extremtextil sells an 8oz nylon that
to the stem shape of Greenland kayaks without showing wrinkles. shrinks well and wraps compound
curves nicely, but is so loosely woven
1050 12oz ballistic nylon: A good choice for very roughly used skin- that it is difficult to work with without
boats, it adds about 30% longer life and durability, but will add 4 pounds pulling large thread holes.
to the finished weight of the boat. It’s up to you to decide if that’s worth
it or not. Sew on soaking wet. Norway: kajakkspesialisten.no
Anders Thygesen sells a 60/40 nylon
Other fabrics from Skinboats.org: Skinboats.org offers many options
polyester blend fabric that gets good
that don’t work well. Please email us if considering a different cloth.
reviews from our builders. He sells
this as a “kayak skinning kit” in his
Dyson Baidarka and Co store. Anders has a wider width of this
cloth as well, so please inquire about
George Dyson also sells fabric but does not advertise. He sells an 8oz the width and compare to your kayak
nylon that is a bit loosely woven and therefore shows significant thread circumference. If the wider cloth
pull holes, but shrinks well, and a 12oz nylon with moderate shrink that is is unavailable, a patch of cloth can be
easy to work with. Consult the internet for a full fabric list and contact info. sewn in the center near the cockpit,
much like the traditional Greenland
If you find other fabrics that work well please let us know! kayaks did with sealskin.

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 Kayak Coating and Coloring Choices

Skin on frame kayaks can be finished with a variety of coatings, but polyurethane pairs best with nylon cloth because
both are flexible, allowing the nylon to absorb impacts without damaging the coating.

We recommend the Spirit Line 2-part polyurethane sold by Skinboats.org, which also sells the 840 Xtra Tuff cloth
we prefer. This extremely tough coating has the most durability of any semi-translucent finish we currently know of.
It has almost no odor and contains no solvents, and is applied wet-on-wet over the course of a single day. It will not
stick to itself once it is cured and cannot be recoated, so it is important to order enough for your project.

Skinboats.org sells this in 3 sizes: full order, half order, and touch up kit. They say a full order can cover a kayak, but

E
in our experience this is rarely enough. I recommend ordering 1 full order AND 1 half order. This will give you
enough material for 4 coats on the hull and the deck, and possibly a 5th. If you are building a large kayak (see page 29)
and want to add 4 coats plus a liquid keel strip, order an additional 8oz “touch-up” kit. If using 12oz cloth, order 2 full

L
orders per kayak, because the thicker cloth will absorb 30% more coating. If only 3 light coats are desired, or you are
building a very small boat like my East Greenland or the smallest size F1, you can get by with 1 full order plus a touch

P
up kit, but you must carefully follow the coating schedule shown on page 29.

Note: the part A is consumed faster and is never a full 16oz. See page 29 and videos for recommended batch size.

OTHER COATING OPTIONS COLORING YOUR KAYAK

M
Coelan Boat Coating Gloss Finish Acid dyes are easy to apply and the
Coelan is a highly durable, UV resistant single-part finish, but it is also initial colors are fantastic, but they

A
extremely expensive and extremely toxic with strong vapors. It is applied fade with exposure to sunlight, with
over several days in a well ventilated, conditioned space with a respirator. lighter, warmer colors being more
colorfast than darker colors. See

S
For smaller kayaks: order 2ea 750ml cans + 1ea 350ml can
dye videos for important instructions
For medium to large kayaks: order 3ea 750ml cans to prevent coating adhesion issues.
The cost of Coelan is roughly three times the cost of the Spirit Line 2-part Rare earth pigments are harder to
polyurethane from Skinboats.org, so even for international builders it can apply evenly but the colors actually
be less expensive to ship Spirit Line coating than purchase Coelan locally. improve with exposure to sunlight,
and darker colors are very colorfast.
Single-part “Hardware Store” Polyurethanes
We are still determining the maximum
A variety of cheap hardware store urethanes can be used to coat a skin
amount of pigment that can be safely
on frame boat, but they tend to crack easily and the durability and lifespan
added to the coating but so far haven’t
is less than half that of Spirit Line’s 2-part or Coelan. Application is also
seen any chemistry issues adding up
usually pretty toxic. You get what you pay for.
to 4 tsp of pigment per 32 oz of Part B.
Other 2-part Urethanes Please share your feedback working
Students have experimented with a variety of other 2-part coatings, but with rare earth pigments.
so far none have worked well enough to recommend. See our color choices video (in the
course and on YouTube) for side by
As always please let us know if you find another finish that worked well for you! side comparisons, test panels of differ-
ent color methods exposed to UV, and
Note: If you chose a color and coloring system before ordering your supplies it a more detailed discussion of the pros
can be added to your order. We sell acid dye, and skinboats.org sells pigment. and cons of each system.

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 Forms and Jigs

SPREADER
West FORMS
Greenland 2021 UPDATE CURVED DECK BEAM LAMINATING JIG



East Greenland
plywood West Greenland
West Greenland 2021 UPDATE

15 3/4"
Form 1

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65°
2 1/2"
Form1 Form1

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Form 1 Only one curved18deck
1/8"  dowels protrude
beam is needed, but 2" from form
Form 2 I often make a spare

P
65°
2 1/2"
Form 2 Form 2

7 /2" JIG
COAMING
1

Form 2

M
65°
Form 3 3/4 " plywood 2 1/2"
Form 3 Form 3

A
Note: Cut carefully and
DO NOT change form dimensions
33–35" inseam
for 2 1/4 " tall gunwales
Form 3

S
29–32" inseam
25–28" inseam
Form 4
5 3/4" 5 1/8"

CAPTURE FORMS (X2)

65° 65°
4" 3 1/4"

2 5/8" 2 3/8"

“SPECIAL STICKS”

Build 2
Special Stick # 1 Special Stick # 2 Special Stick # 3

(Be careful making these! Build two of each, so you have a spare)

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 of kayak of kayak

Steambox and Drill Mortise Jigs

STEAMBOX

plywood
1/2" hole on back
held together with of underside
1" sheetrock screws or nails for steam hose

14"

32"

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2 3/8"

L
5/8" dowel

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3/4" 3/4" x 1 5/8"
x 1"
(front only, 3/4" x 1 5/8" in rear)

DRILL MORTISE JIGS

A M
S
made from tough hardwood
(white oak or harder)

A power drill and a block of hardwood

can be used to mortise the gunwales
if a plunge router is not available, how-
ever, this is much more labor intensive
and difficult.

Personally, we would never make the

rib mortises with a drill jig, but some-
times a drill jig makes sense for the
deck beam mortises because it avoids
the need to make the angled router
Angle Deck Beam Jig Rib Jig
jig and purchase an expensive 3/8-inch
spiral upcut bit.
for straight deck beams

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 Plunge Router Mortise Jigs
Angle Deck Beam
3/8" mortise

RIB MORTISING JIG

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Angle Deck Beam
3/8" mortise

L
Rib Mortise Jig

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ANGLE DECK BEAM MORTISING JIG
Jig Cut List

A M 1ea

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Building the Jig

Start with a piece of 1/2-inch plywood. Locate the center and screw
locations for router (plate should be square to router handles), mark, drill,
and countersink for router screws, then drill a large hole (2"–3") in the center.
2 ea

Next, build two tapered hardwood blocks and guide blocks, as shown.
Screw plywood base to router and extend 3/8" bit as high as possible.
Then, carefully float all pieces until the base edge of the square guide block
lines up from the edge of the bit. Use deck beam mortise set up jig
(available at capefalconkayaks.com) or equivalent block to ensure the jig 2 ea
8"
stays wide for gunwale. Once position is located, carefully mark and
pilot, then screw all pieces in place. See video.

11/2" –2"
25° BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK
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 Gunwale Layout

Rib Rib
# Location GUNWALE END CUTS

Bow

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Deck 1
Beam #1
2

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Deck 3
Beam #2 Stern
4

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Deck 5
Beam #3
6
FORM LOCATIONS
7

M
8 Mark form locations on gunwales during
(laminated layout, see table on page 22.
Deck 9
curved
Beam #4
deck beam) 10

A
11
GUNWALE END DETAILS
12

S
Deck
Beam #5 To raise the sheer in both the bow and stern
13 of the West Greenland kayak, blocks are
glued to the tops of the gunwales and then
14
cut to a wedge shape and planed fair into the
Deck 15 line of gunwale. Planing should take about
Beam #6
16 off the finished wedge, raising the
gunwales in the bow and stern.
Deck 17
Beam #7
18
Deck 19
Beam #8
20
Deck 21
Beam #9 Bow

forward
foreward edgesedges of deck
of deck beamsbeams and are
and ribs ribsmeasured
are
measured from forward
from forward end ofend of gunwale
gunwale Stern

BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK

stem cutting detail
VERSION 2.0 2023-01a. Copyright © 2023 Brian Schulz, Cape Falcon Kayak
Page 20 of 36
For personal use only. For commercial licensing, contact brian@capefalconkayaks.com
 Mortises

MARKING FOR MORTISES

Ribs are easily marked by holding a combination square (1 inch wide) at the rib location and marking both sides of the
square. Deck beam mortises are marked 1 inch wide as well, connecting to the edge of the deck beam marked closest
to the center of the boat. Put another way, deck beam tenons will locate at the back of the deck beam in the first four
deck beams, and to the front of the deck beam for the last five deck beams.

deck beam location

1 " wide marks for ribs

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P
gunwale gunwale

marks for widest point

1 " wide mortise of kayak

M
MORTISING THE GUNWALES

A
The fastest way to cut the rib and deck beam mortises is with a plunge router. Using guide blocks and a drill is a less
expensive option, but slower. Rib mortises should be centered on the gunwale and cut longer than the width of the

S
wale ribs and deep. All deck beams are cut withgunwale
gunwale a through mortise long, the top edge located down
from the top of the gunwale. This will be the inside edge of the gunwale, so orientation is important on the angle mortises.
nt Gunwaleswidest
mustpoint
mirror each other. If using a drill, a series of overlapping holes cuts the mortise easily, backing the
of kayak
workpiece will prevent tear out. If using a router, carbide spiral upcut bits work best.

center of kayak
gunwales must
mirror each other

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 Sample Deck Layout

FORM LOCATIONS

Mark form locations on gunwales during layout

Capture
Form

Distance from

E
Deck Form bow end of gunwale
Beam #1
Capture Form

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Deck Cam Strap
Beam #2
Cam Form 1

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Deck Strap
Form 2
Beam #3
Form 1 Cam Strap
Form 3
Deck

M
Beam #4 Capture Form

A
WIDTH

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Width at widest point is approximately
Deck
Beam #5 1/4" less for low volume version with 2 1/4" tall gunwales
Form 2

Deck
Beam #6 Cam
Strap

Deck
Beam #7

Deck
Beam #8

Deck
Beam #9
Form 3

Capture
Form

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 Cutting and Aligning the Stems

Cutting the correct initial stem angle is critical to getting the proper stem rake. Any method you use to achieve an
exact cut is fine, but carefully following and cutting according the following measurements will give the
correct angle.

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BOW AND STERN STEM DETAIL

Measure back from end of stem and align with end of gunwale. Clamp to the end and use drawings, video
and your eye to check that the stem completes a fair line extending out from the gunwale. Clamp firmly, scribe, and
cut out with band saw. If you get this wrong, you can always adjust by carefully changing the cut you make later.

M
wedge
wedge
Bow Detail

A
(added earlier)
(added earlier)
bow stem completes
astem
fair linecutting
extending detail

S
across gunwale and gunwale
gunwale
wedge

stemstem

Stern

Follow these same steps in the stern with one important difference, in the stern only you will tip the far end
upwards extending out from the gunwale end.

Bow wedge
wedge
Stern Detail
(enlarged to show offset)

gunwale
gunwale

stemstem
tip upwards

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 Understanding the Rib Measuring System

To make this kayak scalable we use a variation of a measuring system seen on some traditional kayaks, simply taking
the width of the kayak at the mortise location and adding a length to it. There is some indication that this may have
been done with handspans, fingers, etc, but we use a fixed measurement that we call the base measurement along with
some adjustments. It’s very important to note that the width is always measured at the widest point of the gunwales

15 – 20
at that mortise location. For instance, the measurements will be taken from the back of the mortise at the front of the

21
boat, and the front of the mortise at the back of the boat.

14
13

12
11

10
9
8

1
We have included a full size measuring stick drawing on the following page that you can print and transfer onto your
own marking stick.

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base measurement

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15 – 20

21

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14
13

12
11

10
9
8

1
measure width at outside edge of add length of special stick

M
base measurement
gunwale at widest point base measurement +
of rib mortise mark adjustment as indicated

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CHECKING THE RIB HEIGHTS
A
measure width at outside edge of
gunwale at widest point
of rib mortise mark
add length of special stick
base measurement +
adjustment as indicated

An experimental new feature of our system is a

separate measuring stick you can use to check the
rib heights while bending. Please watch the video
to understand how this works. Heights are provided
on the following page. Remember to subtract
from these measurements if building a low profile
version with 2 1/4-inch tall gunwales.
See video on checking rib heights
Note: the height stick is still experimental! Trust your
eye and the shaping videos if the stick height seems wrong.

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 Measuring Sticks:
West Greenland Kayak

L E
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IMPORTANT NOTE

A M
S
This kayak was redesigned in the fall of 2021 to
allow it to be scaled for a much wider size range
of users. Everything should scale appropriately
but there is always a chance of unforeseen errors
RIB HEIGHT CHECK STICK
in the system. If you build one of these kayaks in
ANY size, please email or text me a picture of your
ribs when done ribbing and let me know how your
shaping compares to the Rib Height Check Stick.
As I said in the check stick video, trust your eye
and the shaping videos first, and use the height
check stick as a “sanity check”. I am often guilty of
over-flattening my ribs, so if yours are a little higher
MEASURING STICK

in the middle than the stick, that's probably ok.

Basically if anything seems wrong or looks different

from the videos: ribs, stringer heights, etc., stop
and send me a text or an email, so I can make sure
RIB LENGTH

the problem isn’t with the system! Also, please let

me know how the finished boat feels and paddles
on the water!

Brian
503 354 4939
brian@capefalconkayaks.com

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 Shaping the Ribs

The ribs in this kayak start out with a very defined “V” shape in the bow which transitions slowly to a rounded shape,
Ribs #1 – 3/4 Ribs halfway between Ribs from the back of L
Ribs
then to #1 – 3/4
a more “square” shapeRibs halfway
in the centerbetween
and stern, then back Ribsa from the back of very stern. TheLast rib
bowtoand “U” shape
cockpit at the V section
the cockpit onwardin
bow and cockpit the cockpit onward
the front is critical for speed and handing, the “square section” in the center is necessary for stability.
Ribs #1 – 3/4 Ribs #1 – 3/4
Ribs halfway between Ribs halfway
Ribs frombetween
the back of Ribs fr
Last
bow and cockpit bowthe
and cockpit
cockpit onward the c

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Ribs #1 – 3 Ribs halfway between Ribs from the back of Last rib
bow and cockpit the acockpit
Note: little bitonward
of
Note: a little bit of
cracking or splitting on

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cracking or splitting on
the firstNote:
rib isa normal
little bit of
the first rib is normal cracking or splitting on
Note: a little bit of
the first rib is normal
The hardest bend to make is the tight bend in the bow ribs; cracking or splitting on

P
I recommend thinning these ribs to inch and backing the first rib is normal
the bend with a belt to prevent splitting. A small amount of
splitting is normal and can easily be repaired with glue.

M
Note: a little bit of
cracking or splitting on
the first rib is normal

A
The ribs from the middle
of the boat back can be easy
or challenging depending

S
on the quality of your bending F1/LPB Greenland
F1/LPB Greenland
wood. IF1/LPB
bend these in the Greenland
1: Grip the rib so the end of the 2: Fold your thumb over the rib
following sequence:
rib is near the end of your palm and then bend the rib over it one
F1/LPB Greenland
for a F1/LPB or the middle of side at a time to pre-bend the ends
your palm for a Greenland kayak. before inserting into the mortises.

F1/LPB Greenland

3: Put the rib in the kayak, and then 4: Let the bend rebound back 5: Modify the bend if needed to
press down on the center section to up so the rib is mostly flat on make it roughly symmetrical, and
overbend the ribs and make the shape top, but has a very slight upward take a quick look at the previous
more “square”. How much to do this curve to improve strength and rib you bent, if it looks out of
depends on the position of the rib and guard against rib collapse. shape, there is still time to modify
the resulting bend. that rib as well.

Good luck and always feel free to text or email me photos while you are bending, I am happy to help.
brian@capefalconkayaks.com 503 354 4939

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 Keel and Stringer Heights

KEEL HEIGHTS: BOW AND STERN

Keel height in the bow is set by shimming the first couple ribs, and shimming, trimming, or doing nothing to
the last few ribs. Subtract 1/4 inch from these heights if building the low volume 2 1/4-inch tall gunwale version.
Note: these numbers are approximate, see rocker profile and adjust if needed.

Bow Keel Keel Stern

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Ribs Ribs

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Gunwale
Gunwale
Note: this stern depth gives a good balance of tracking
and manuverability. Tracking can be tightened with

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a small external skeg if needed. The historic kayak was
slightly deeper here, but other examples are shallower.

measure measure
from bottomfrom bottom
of keel to of
topkeel
of gunwale
to top of gunwale

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at specified
at rib
specified
locations
rib locations

Keel Keel

A
Ribs Ribs
keel rocker curves upward from the center keel rocker is curved slightly upwards for more
of the kayak forward; the original kayak Gunwale
maneuverability Gunwale
(my preference)or straight from

S
was approximately 1/4 1" deeper1in the bow 5 5 etc. theetc.
center back for tighter tracking

STRINGER HEIGHTS AND PEG LOCATIONS

After adjusting for keel height, ribs are pegged with 1/8 inch dowels at the following locations. Stringers are measured
and clamped at these same locations. The stringers sit vertically, (rectangle sitting with its skinniest side on the rib)
with the rolling bevels cut on the ends mating to the stems. Stringer height notes the outside edge of the stringer as
measured from the top of the gunwale at ribs # 1, 7, 12, 16, 21. Note: On the original kayak the stringers were spread
slightly wider at rib #12, see modifications page for discussion.

measure
stringer height (inches) at rib #
gunwale like this
height 1 7* 12 16 21

2 1/2
2 1/4 low volume version: subtract 1/4" from all measurements stringer
height

* Important Note: It is acceptable to increase the rib #7

measurement by up to 1/8" if it appears the skin between the
stringer and keel will be very close to the rib.
1/4 " is ideal, 3/16" is acceptable, 1/8" definitely move the stringer double-check heights after stringers are tied on

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 Greenland
paddle blank

Masik Details

8 feet

The masik in a Greenland kayak fits low across the 3 /thighs.

2" 1
Because the masik is the primary control surface in a

Greenland kayak, it is important that it fits tightly, but not so tightly as to create an entrapment hazard. For this reason,
it is critical that you watch the fitting video carefully and follow all instructions as well as practice wet exits on the water
3 1/2"
with a spotter until you are certain you can safely exit the kayak.

The masik is made out of a block of split-resistant, rot-resistant hardwood such as ash. The
original height is shown below, however, in our experience most people are more comfortable
with a slightly taller masik. We recommend purchasing two blocks of oversized wood, so if your

E
first masik is taller or shorter than desired, you can make a second to improve the fit. The masik
can also be laminated out of multiple blocks, shown at right, if a thick solid block is not available.
masik can also

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Once the masik is complete, you will want to set it up as shown in the fitting video and try the
be laminated,
kayak. If you cannot enter and exit safely, you will want to increase the height. If the boat is too like this
loose, you can decrease the height. (Do not decrease the height less than the original dimension

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shown below.) A Greenland kayak should fit snugly for optimal performance but it is YOUR
RESPONSIBILITY to ensure that you can wet exit safely in an emergency.

M
Simple Masik Layout
(easier to build)
vertical

A
or rift
vertical
or riftgrain
grain

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width of kayak at widest point
width of kayak at widest point

The shape shown below is more challenging to make, but is more comfortable because it raises the area above the
thighs by 1/4 inch. If you decide to make this version we recommend that you draw one side on a thin scrap of wood
or paper, cut the shape, then use it as a half-template to make an identical shape on both sides.

Complex Masik Layout

(slightly more comfortable,
but harder to make)

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 Coating the Kayak

We recommend the 2-part polyurethane sold by Skinboats.org because it is tough, relatively non-toxic, and quick
to apply. Minimum working temperature is 60 degrees and maximum is 85 degrees, but 65° to 80° is better and 70°
to 75° is ideal. Make sure the coating itself is not cold. Make sure you have all supplies on hand before beginning.
Carefully tape off the deck to prevent drips onto the deck. You MUST remove this tape within 5 hours of applying
the first coat, otherwise it will be glued to the skin at the edge.

If using rare earth pigments for coloring, combine all Part B together and mix in pigment the day before coating.
To avoid pigment settling, mix the Part B thoroughly before mixing each new batch of coating.

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The coating is mixed vigorously for 4 minutes at a 2:1 ratio Part B to Part A. It is applied wet-on-wet with a 4-inch mini
foam roller. The first coat is split in half to provide enough working time per side for the initial saturation. The second
coat is applied to the entire hull directly following the first. Subsequent coats should be applied an hour apart

L
to let the previous coat stif fen to prevent excessive sagging and drips. Each extra coat will add a significant
increase in durability, but also around a pound of weight. These days I’m adding four coats to the bottom of all my

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kayaks, although three is sufficient for lighter use boats. Once the desired number of coats is reached on the hull, the
kayak can be turned over and the deck coated. If you run out of time or desire additional coats, you can re-coat within
24 hours but no later.

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RECOMMENDED MIXING AMOUNTS *
B/A ratios in fluid ounces for 840 denier Xtra Tuff nylon skin
* Amounts are approximate and may need to be adjusted during the coating process if it seems like too little or too much is being applied

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Hull First coat First coat Second coat Third coat Fourth coat

S
(1/2 hull) (1/2 hull) (entire hull) (recommended) (extra protection)

Small kayak

Medium kayak Small kayaks

East Greenland
Larger kayak
West Greenland:
Using 12oz cloth 4–5% scale down
F1: 100 lb
Tandem kayak

Medium kayaks
Deck First coat Second coat Third coat Fourth coat West Greenland:
(entire deck) and coaming (recommended) (extra protection) 3% scale down –
5% scale up
Small kayak
F1 or LPB:
Medium kayak 125 – 175 lb

Large kayak Large kayaks

Using 12oz cloth F1 or LPB:
200 lb & larger
Tandem kayak

Important Note: Do not over-roll your goop or it will start making little bubbles and an orange-peel appearance.
If this happens, bubbles can be smoothed out with a card as per video instructions.

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 13 Common Coating Mistakes

This is a condensed version of the 13 Common Coating Mistakes document in the video course. For the
best success coating your boat, read the full document in the course and do not skip any coating videos.

L E
P
A M
S

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 2 5/8"

Deck / Lines,
" Toggles and
11 16 C Rub
/ " Strips 11 16

2 5/8"
1/2" 1/2"
3/8"

DECK LINES 11/TOGGLES

16" C 11/16"

edges and round ends. /2"

1/2" 1
4 ea 3/8 -inch wide x 6-foot long oil tanned latigo Toggles are 1/2" HDPE. Chamfer
3/8" 9/32"
All holes are 39/32
/2"," drilled 5/ " from outside edge.
1
or english bridle leather straps. 16
hole
1/4"
1/8" 1/8"
Locate deck line locations and drill as per video 2 5/8"
instruction before skinning boat. 1/4"
9/32"
3 1/2" 1/4"
11/16"
1/4" corner
2" hole
C 11/161" 11/16"
/8" 1/8"

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Take1/measurement:
2" 1/2"
radius, all 1/2" 1/2"
from bow 3/8" Chamfer profile
2 ea 1/4" 2 ea

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1/4"
from front edge of masik toward bow
round over last 1/2" 11/16" x 1/2 "2"x 2 3/4 " 1/2 " – 11/16" d ia m11e/16
t e"r
1/2" 1/4" corner
End
from detail
front edge of deck beam 4 toward
1/2"
Endbowdetail radius, all

P
3 1/2" 9/32" Chamfer profile
from rear edge of deck beam 4, toward stern hole
1 /4"
1/4" 1/8" 1/8"
1/2"
round over last 1/2"
from rear edge of backrest deck beam
End detail End
break topdetail
edges
(deck beam #5) toward stern 1/4"
1/4" with slickplane

M
from stern 2" 11/16"
1/2" 1/2" Profile detail 1/4" corner
Profile detail 1/2"
radius, all
Important Note: Use these measurements
break top edges 1 ea* Chamfer profile

A
and disregard measurements shown in video. 1/32"
1/4" C slickplane
with
1/4" to 11/16" x 1/2 " x 3 1/2 "
C round over 3last 1/2"
1/32" /64"
Profile detail original kayak had one toggle on back deck,
Profile detail
End detail

S
to End detail but using two lets you tighten the straps more
3/64" countersink so screw
sits 1/32" to 3/641"
C
below surface to
/32"
RUB Hole
1detail
/C2"
STRIPS 3/64"
1/2"
1/32"
to break top edges
Rub strips are built from "HDPE
13//464 or Delrin
" withplastic.
countersink
slickplane HDPE is more UV resistant but must be
so screw
sits 1/32" to 3/64"
higher profile to be durable. Delrin is lower profile and tougher, but more difficult to work
below surface round over last 1/2"
Hole Profile detail
rubdetail
with. Profile
See strip
detail video for explanation of options and installation details. Build 2. 1/2"
End detail
HDPE: 3/16" x 1/2" x 42" C 42" 1/32"
C to
round over last 1/2"
Delrin: 1/8" x 1/2" x 42" 1/32" 3/64"
to End
break topdetail
edges
3/64" countersink so screw with slickplane
sits 1/32" to 3/64"
42"
below surface
Hole detail Profile detail
1/2"

break top edges

C slickplane
with
1/32"
round over last 1/2"
round over last 1/2 " on both ends space holes 2 1/2 " on center, Profile detail
and break top edges (see detail); C 1/32" use 7/64" countersink for End detail
leave bottom edge sharp 3/43 "to#4 stainless flathead phillips screws countersink so
screw sits 1/32"
42" /64" C
below surface1
/32"
Hole detail
C 1/32" break top edges
to countersink so
with slickplane
3/64" screw sits 1/32"
BUILDING THE WEST GREENLAND KAYAK below surface
Profile detail
Hole detail
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C
1/32"
 Outfitting

Kayak safety is a complex subject with judgment being at least as important as skills or gear. The right skill set and
gear just depends on the situation, but generally you always want to plan for the worst thing that could happen in any
paddling situation. If you are paddling 20 feet from shore in 80 degree water, a PFD might be all you need. On the
other hand, if you are doing a cold open water crossing alone you’ll want to have a sea sock, dry suit, float bags, and
hopefully a solid reflexive brace and roll so you never end up in the water in the first place. Your safety strategy will
depend on many factors. Here are some things you may or may not need depending on your situation:

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FLOAT BAGS AND SEASOCKS

Float bags help with rescues, and combo bags can carry gear as well, but they are NOT sufficient for a solo self rescue

L
by themselves. Sure you can get back in, but you’ll spend so much time pumping out the water that it’s really not
practical. If solo self rescue is a must, you will also need a well fitted sea sock. Trak carries a sea sock that fits our
large size keyhole coaming perfectly. I believe this is a re-branded Reed sea sock, so if you have a different size

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coaming, you can send your measurements to Reed and they can make you a custom one. You must have a double lip
(3/4 inch deep) coaming to use a sea sock. A poorly fitted sea sock is MORE DANGEROUS than not having one at all.
Please see the videos in the Prep Course where I talk about float bags and sea socks for a detailed discussion of the
advantages and disadvantages of various products.

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Float Bag Advantages Disadvantages

A
Waterlight Custom Float Bag • Sized for our kayaks • Expensive
• Separate air/gear chambers • Heaviest option

S
• Optional air bag only • Can be long production time
• Very tough, thick fabric

Trak 40L Gear/Float Bags • Tough, thick fabric • A bit small for medium and larger boats
• Very well made • Zip closure with no separate air chamber

Trak 60L Gear/Float Bag • Lightweight • Not as durable

• Good size and shape • Roll closure with less-reliable air seal
• Less expensive • No separate air chamber

Special note for Greenland kayaks: Traditional Greenland kayaks are generally too low volume to camp out of so combo
bags are typically not necessary. The only exception might be ultra light trips in oversized greenland kayaks. For example,
I can camp ultra light for 2 days with a 20lb kit out of the stretched version of the standard size West Greenland kayak,
however it is still very hard to fit gear inside.

Remember, just having safety gear isn't enough, you have to practice using it in the
same conditions where it might be needed if you want it to work for you in real life
situations. Obtaining proper kayak safety training is YOUR responsibility.

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 The survey shown here is from an older version
of this kayak. We will be replacing it with a new
survey drawing as soon as possible.

The current version is similar, but somewhat

S
sleeker with a higher stern. Do not try to match
the lines of this drawing exactly.

A M
P
L E

The West Greenland Kayak

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 Video Course Index

Kayak Prep Course

This is a list of all the videos JIGS AND FORMS
in the course for quick reference. Jigs and forms
I know there are a LOT of videos, Making a plywood base plate for your
plunge router
but please watch all videos relevant COURSE INTRODUCTION Special angle jig baseplate instructions for
to your build all the way to the end. the METABO CORDLESS ROUTER ONLY
Kayak course introduction
Kayak plans overview Choosing between a block jig and a router
This course is packed with jig for making deck beam mortises
Licensing agreement (text)
information to help you avoid all
Making a deck beam mortise block jig
the common skin on frame building

E
Building an angled deck beam mortise
mistakes so your first build turns SAMPLE PLAN SETS (PDFS) router jig
out as well as if I’d built it myself!

L
— Brian ODDS AND ENDS MAKING THE
Outfitting options COCKPIT COAMING*
Planning the reinforcements for catamaran, Introduction to building the coaming

P
sailing, or back deck bungee loops Making the perfect keyhole coaming shape
Coloring systems for skin on frame boats: Building the coaming bending jig
acid dye vs earth pigment Measuring for the coaming and selecting
Planning for brass bow protection wood

M
Float and gear bags for skin on frame kayaks Cutting and laying out the coaming stock
Float bags, sea socks and kayak safety Cutting the coaming end tapers
Steam bent cockpit coamings for sale Coaming steaming setup and steaming times
F1 or LPB kayak parts kit for sale Steam bending the coaming

A
Greenland kayak parts kit for sale Finishing the coaming
Joining or scarfing wood into longer Steaming the coaming into a "taco" shape
lengths (optional)

S
Variations on the F1 Laminating a coaming
Comparing four different types of
adjustable footbraces
Using fresh cut bamboo for kayak ribs (text) GUNWALE LAYOUT
Laying out the gunwales
F1 special layout instructions
SUPPLIES, TOOLS,
WOOD AND SAFETY
Setting up your workspace MORTISING THE GUNWALES
Tools for building a skin on frame kayak Plunge router setup
Table saw safety tips Cutting the rib mortises
Choosing and sharpening block planes and Cutting deck beam mortises
chisels Cutting mortises with a drill jig
Choosing wood for skin on frame kayaks
Prepping bending oak and maximizing rib
yield MAKING LAMINATED
DECK BEAMS
Prepping rib stock
Discussion of kayak skin choices Laminating curved deck beams
Kayak skin choices and suppliers (text)
Bending oak suppliers (text)
MISC. PREP / PARTS REVIEW
Cutting rolling bevels on the stringers
Rounding the keel and stringers
Adding sheer blocks to the West Greenland
and flat deck F1/LPB gunwales

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 Video Course Index

Kayak Building BUILDING THE DECK KEEL, STEMS, AND

(CONTINUED) STRINGERS (CONTINUED)
Course
Flattening the gunwales (Greenland) Additional bow stem layout instructions
Marking the stems (F1, F2, LPB) (flat deck F1 and LPB)
COURSE INTRODUCTION Additional bow stem marking instructions Fitting the stems to the keel (Greenland)
Kayak course introduction (flat deck F1 and LPB) Marking, drilling, and lashing on the stems
Kayak plans overview Stern stem rudder modification (F1, F2, Pegging the stems to the keel
LPB) (optional)

E
Licensing agreement (text) Setting the stringers ( F1, F2, LPB )
Tips for a successful kayak build (text) Marking the stems (Greenland) Setting the stringers (Greenland)
Kayak course updates & changes (text) Adding a drain plug (optional) Lashing the stringers to the ribs

L
Understanding the kayak rib measuring Shaping and tying the stringer ends to
system the stems
THINGS TO CONSIDER Measuring and cutting ribs Installing temporary stanchions
BEFORE YOU BUILD Measuring and cutting the West Greenland Gluing on end blocks (F1, F2, LPB)

P
Skin on frame kayak outfitting options ribs (use with VERSION 2.0 plan set only) Special instructions for finishing the bow
Planning the reinforcements for catamaran, Prepping the rib stock stem (flat deck F1 and LPB)
sailing, or back deck bungee loops
Should I add a rudder to my kayak? (text)
STEAM BENDING THE RIBS CATAMARAN AND SAILING

M
Color options for skinboats: acid dye vs.
earth pigment Using the rib HEIGHT measuring stick REINFORCEMENT
Earth pigment update: better results and (currently only available for Version 2.0 Catamaran and sailing reinforcements
new color options of the West Greenland kayak)

A
Planning for brass bow protection Setting up for steam bending the ribs
Considerations for adding a liquid keel Tips for steam bending FINISHING THE FRAME:
protection strip Fixing rib mistakes GREENLAND KAYAKS

S
Using fresh cut bamboo for kayak ribs (text) Loading the steam box Flattening and marking for end plates
Advantages and disadvantages of Steam bending the ribs: F1 kayak Kerfing and chiseling for end plates
adjustable footbraces in Greenland kayaks F1 rib shaping overview Cutting and pegging the end plates
(Currently for West Greenland kayak only)
Steam bending the ribs: LPB kayak Making the Greenland backrest
Bilge pump clips (Standard F1, F2, LPB only) LPB rib shaping overview Finishing the Greenland backrest
Drop kits and custom drop plates Steam bending the ribs: West Greenland Laying out the masik
West Greenland kayak rib shaping overview Shaping the masik
Steam bending the ribs West Greenland Fitting the masik
BUILDING THE DECK kayak: use with VERSION 2.0 plan set Installing the masik
Setting up the gunwales West Greenland shaping review: use with Cutting out the heel rib and reinforcing
Kerfing the ends VERSION 2.0 plan set the keel
Lashing the ends together Steam bending the ribs: East Greenland Setting up for making a traditional footbrace
Checking for symmetry East Greenland kayak rib shaping overview Making and fitting the footbrace
Pegging the ends together Cutting and pegging the footbrace
Setting up the deck beams Setting up for installing adjustable foot-
Mortise and tenon deck beams overview KEEL, STEMS, braces (West Greenland kayak only)
AND STRINGERS
Mortise and tenon deck beams: Step 1 Installing Smart Track adjustable footbraces
Mortise and tenon deck beams: Step 2 Setting the keel heights (F1, F2, LPB) (West Greenland kayak only)
Mortise and tenon deck beams: Step 3 Setting keel heights (Greenland) Installing foredeck stringers (West Greenland)
Mortise and tenon deck beams: Step 4 Pegging the ribs Building and fitting foredeck stringers
Mortise and tenon deck beams: Step 5 Centering the keel (East Greenland)
Mortise and tenon deck beams: Step 6 Making winders for lashing Installing the foredeck stringers
Fitting the deck beams Lashing on the keel (East Greenland)
Pegging the deck beams Fixing a broken lashing
Trimming the dowels and planing the ends Fitting the stems to keel (F1, F2, LPB)

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 Video Course Index

FINISHING THE FRAME: SKINNING THE KAYAK RIGGING THE KAYAK

F1, F2, LPB (CONTINUED)
Determining footbrace location and installing Sewing up the stern (F1, F2, LPB) Deck rigging introduction and
T-nuts for Sea-Lect footbrace tracks Shortening the skin and cutting the bow cutting leather deck lines
Alternate foot brace install method (F1, F2, LPB) Rounding leather deck lines and
Adding the secondary stringer (F1, F2, LPB) Sewing up the bow (F1, F2, LPB) making deck line wire "needles"
Installing Wilderness Systems slidelock Stretching the skin and pinning the keel Making HDPE toggles and beads
footbrace tracks (F1, F2, LPB) Alternate stitching method considerations Making rub strips

E
Installing a footbrace drop kit Cutting the center seam Making the optional brass bow rub strip
Cutting the pocket mortise for the deck Lacing up the skin (F1, F2, LPB)
ridge (F1, F2, LPB) Tightening the deck lacing Marking and burning the deck line holes

L
Fitting the forward deck stringer and Trimming excess fabric Rigging the deck lines
shaping the stern (F1, F2, LPB) Sewing up the skin Deck line threading pattern (East Greenland)
Lashing the forward deck stringer (F1, F2, LPB) Setting the coaming (F1, F2, LPB) Installing the "V-line"(East Greenland)
Making forward deck stringers Setting the coaming (Greenland) Threading, tying, and gluing the grab loops

P
(flat deck F1 and LPB) Cutting the coaming circle Installing Wilderness Systems Slidelock
Installing forward deck stringers (flat deck Stitching the coaming on style foot braces
F1 and LPB) Shrinking out deck wrinkles Installing the backband (older style with
Adding the center deck ridge (F2) (skip if coloring with acid dye) Snap Dragon logo)

M
Reinforcing the keel Adding the West Greenland bow toggle loops Installing the backband (new style, no logo)
Shaping the bow for the optional brass rub Tools and materials for coloring the fabric Finishing the Greenland style backrest
strip (only applies if you are adding one) with acid dye Installing the seat mat
Coloring the fabric with acid dye Making a suspended cloth seat

A
Mixing earth pigment into the polyurethane Sealing deck lines
FINISHING THE FRAME: ALL Adding perimeter lines
Adding aft deck stringers Installing foam thigh braces

S
F1 and LPB deck line location update COATING THE KAYAK Adding rub strips (Greenland)
Drilling deck line holes 13 common coating mistakes (text) Installing the stern rub strip (F1, F2, LPB)
Adding a rear deck action camera mounting Coating process overview Installing brass bow protection (F1, F2, LPB)
block (optional, all kayaks) Tools and supplies for coating the kayak
Making a storage pocket under the foredeck Re-checking keel symmetry and masking
(flat deck F1 and LPB, maybe Greenland) off the deck AFTER YOUR BUILD
Cleaning up the frame (F1, F2, LPB) Sewing a dart General kayak care instructions (text)
Cleaning up the frame (Greenland) Two cup 2 part polyurethane mixing method
Adjusting the stem angles (Greenland) Single cup mixing method
Oiling the frame Process review and advice for batch timing KAYAK CATAMARAN SYSTEM
Installing Sea-Lect footbraces Initial hull saturation coat Kayak / canoe catamaran introduction
(Wilderness system slidelock footbrace Second hull coat Kayak catamaran overview
instructions are later in the course)
Using the scraper card to smooth out Choosing wood for the boards
Final cleanup thoughts and installing float imperfections Making the attachment points
bag pull lines (optional) Final thoughts on coating the hull Alternate attachment method
Balancing the kayak on screws Rigging the bungee loops
Peeling the tape and prepping the deck Setting up the kayaks and cutting the
SKINNING THE KAYAK Coating the deck, initial saturation coat boards to length
Tools and supplies for skinning the kayak Coating the coaming and 2nd deck coat Peg layout and rounding the boards
Important note on the center cockpit (F2) Finishing the deck Kayak catamaran safety
Pre-skinning frame checks Filling lacing and stitching holes Recommendations for catamaran spacing
Draping the skin and sewing up the ends Setting up for a liquid keel strip (optional) and use (text)
(Greenland) Adding a liquid keel strip (optional)
Draping the cloth and pinning and cutting
the stern (F1, F2, LPB)

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